I just changed the CPS today. You're right about the need for Ford replacement parts. The aftermarket replacements sometimes don't work from day one. And Ford parts aren't perfect either. I've replaced 4 CPS in less than 3 years. All but one were Ford. I was changing all the sensors every three years. That's not often enough for the CPS. The one aftermarket CPS I used had a thicker oring. I spent an hour trying to shove it in the hole before I compared it to the old Ford part. So I used the Ford oring and it went right in, but only lasted a month. If you think of the CPS as a fuse, that's about right.
The accelerator pedal assembly has gone out 3 or 4 times in 279k miles, the last two times just replaced the potentometer type component on the pedal assembly. The line on the fuel pump just clamp a piece of fuel injection line and get rid of the connector.
I had replaced my cam position sensor once, you know is that when it dies on you out of nowhere Running, yes even when is running! And it won’t start until Ike an hour later
One thing I did learn is to avoid the Ebay phoney parts that look like OEM is to check the packaging, Ford puts relief holes in their packaging to allow air to escape so it's easier to store on the shelves, the BS phoney ones don't do this.
I've got a 2001 7.tree f2shity with over 820 thousand miles all original Michigan truck works construction and plowed every winter of its life...still stroking and purrs like a kitten 😸... 13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made...I've been driving it for 23 years now....I wouldn't trade it for a rocket ship....
@@mikespence7250 one 4r100 and did injectors and glow plugs. Everything else is original. Change oil every 5 thousand miles and always add one quart of Lucas full synthetic to every oil change. Most important thing with these trucks is to drive it everyday if not seals get dried and go bad....these 7.tree are power plants. Mine has 600 hp and 1200 ft lbs of torque..its a beast
got leaky oil cooler too and possible water pump issue where the oil cooler bolts up in front side , going to limp it threw the winter hopefully it lasts
mine was a unplugged glowplug harness then I find out the cam position sensor was going bad too it would fluctuate high idle ,going to go back and replace the new one but the new one I think is bucking at 60 mph so I've got another one I might test out from ALLIANT
Wish we could upgrade the ECU to use the sensors and give us diagnostic codes. Seems like its operating under some kind of logic to stop the engine from running to death.
I replaced cps I have a p1280 code ipc. But there is no oil in plug. Should I just replace it anyway?? Thanks. Truck starts and runs fine for about a minute then just shuts off. When running I unplugged the icp sensor and truck still runs. Can that be bad and not have oil in plug.
It may not be 100% the issue, however the ICP sensor commonly fail, I would buy a new one and go from there. If your still having an issue it could be HPOP or IPR valve. The good is that you will have a spare ICP sensor on the shelf if it turns out that it's not bad. Make sure and buy factory ICP and yes they fail without having oil at the end of them.
I got a 2000 Ford F-350 with the same problem ?, I put in a new fuel pump two batteries and still don’t start ?, I will give your video a try and no new starter or alternator ?.
Does it crank? If so battery/alt not the issue. The Crank position sensor is very common failure. I would start there. At the very least it's a prevention measure going forward
@@tfwbenny7777 are you talking about the HPOP or what? I am asking because I am looking to buy a friends truck and he is having starting issues and has already changed the HPOP.
@@mikespence7250 lol the only reason I mention it is because that’s what happened to me. The ipr I got was defective and I spent 3 days trying to figure out what was wrong with it. Finally put the only valve stem with the new solenoid and presto!
Thank you. People throw around the acronyms but don’t explain
You bet, I like to make videos that are helpful to the common guy like myself and hope to save you money and headaches with a given project.
good GOD bless you America 🇺🇸 from NJ this family of Guatemala 🇬🇹
I just changed the CPS today. You're right about the need for Ford replacement parts. The aftermarket replacements sometimes don't work from day one. And Ford parts aren't perfect either. I've replaced 4 CPS in less than 3 years. All but one were Ford. I was changing all the sensors every three years. That's not often enough for the CPS. The one aftermarket CPS I used had a thicker oring. I spent an hour trying to shove it in the hole before I compared it to the old Ford part. So I used the Ford oring and it went right in, but only lasted a month. If you think of the CPS as a fuse, that's about right.
Gotta keep one in the glove box!
Buy a ram Cummins
The accelerator pedal assembly has gone out 3 or 4 times in 279k miles, the last two times just replaced the potentometer type component on the pedal assembly.
The line on the fuel pump just clamp a piece of fuel injection line and get rid of the connector.
I've heard of this happening too.
I definitely understand about buying factory, because I got one from local parts store and it was worse.
I had replaced my cam position sensor once, you know is that when it dies on you out of nowhere Running, yes even when is running! And it won’t start until Ike an hour later
Thanks for your video like all the tips
One thing I did learn is to avoid the Ebay phoney parts that look like OEM is to check the packaging, Ford puts relief holes in their packaging to allow air to escape so it's easier to store on the shelves, the BS phoney ones don't do this.
Original IPC sensor nut is 16mm
I've got a 2001 7.tree f2shity with over 820 thousand miles all original Michigan truck works construction and plowed every winter of its life...still stroking and purrs like a kitten 😸... 13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made...I've been driving it for 23 years now....I wouldn't trade it for a rocket ship....
Damn! 820k is impressive. What have you done to it to keep it going? Injectors, tranny, differential, motor??
@@mikespence7250 one 4r100 and did injectors and glow plugs. Everything else is original. Change oil every 5 thousand miles and always add one quart of Lucas full synthetic to every oil change. Most important thing with these trucks is to drive it everyday if not seals get dried and go bad....these 7.tree are power plants. Mine has 600 hp and 1200 ft lbs of torque..its a beast
@@mattvanatti9531 Arch oil is a great oil additive as well. I do my oil every 5 to 6 thousand miles
@@mikespence7250 i thought the manual wanted oil change every 3K miles?
@@peetky8645 that is only if you are towing with it or driving under harsh conditions such as off road driving, or stop and go city traffic.
got leaky oil cooler too and possible water pump issue where the oil cooler bolts up in front side , going to limp it threw the winter hopefully it lasts
I haven't done my oil cooler yet, my buddy did his and it was about a 3/4 hr job, not really overly hard just a pain. Good luck!
Thanks, great video
1 clean engine
Thanks!
did the truck just start stumbling and limp u back with hardly no power ????
Started stumbling like it was starving for fuel, then it would run fine for a few miles then repeat the problem.
mine was a unplugged glowplug harness then I find out the cam position sensor was going bad too it would fluctuate high idle ,going to go back and replace the new one but the new one I think is bucking at 60 mph so I've got another one I might test out from ALLIANT
Great video!
Thanks! Trying to save someone from throwing money darts at the board..
Wish we could upgrade the ECU to use the sensors and give us diagnostic codes. Seems like its operating under some kind of logic to stop the engine from running to death.
*ECM
I replaced cps I have a p1280 code ipc. But there is no oil in plug. Should I just replace it anyway?? Thanks. Truck starts and runs fine for about a minute then just shuts off. When running I unplugged the icp sensor and truck still runs. Can that be bad and not have oil in plug.
It may not be 100% the issue, however the ICP sensor commonly fail, I would buy a new one and go from there. If your still having an issue it could be HPOP or IPR valve. The good is that you will have a spare ICP sensor on the shelf if it turns out that it's not bad. Make sure and buy factory ICP and yes they fail without having oil at the end of them.
@@mikespence7250 thank you that’s a big help 👍🏻👍🏻
I got a 2000 Ford F-350 with the same problem ?, I put in a new fuel pump two batteries and still don’t start ?, I will give your video a try and no new starter or alternator ?.
Does it crank? If so battery/alt not the issue. The Crank position sensor is very common failure. I would start there. At the very least it's a prevention measure going forward
@@mikespence7250 I do everything in your video Mike thanks for save money!!.
If by chance all the above in your video does work ?, New starter batters fuel pump Still doesn’t start ?, By chance is there a wiring not working ?.
Just bought the icp sensor 165 on riffraff diesel
Those prices are Insane!!! I just replaced all that for under 150 with motocraft parts.. O'Reilly robbed this guy
That is a damn good deal for motor craft CPS lol
if ur icp is bad will the truck not start at all
It will usually run with a bad ICP
@@mikespence7250 well they replaced the pump I got it back Thursday ran for day now it won't start again could that be a bad ipr ?
@@tfwbenny7777 are you talking about the HPOP or what? I am asking because I am looking to buy a friends truck and he is having starting issues and has already changed the HPOP.
#Roger
Sucks that you need to carry around spare parts if you own a ford lol.
All old rigs should have a spare part or two that's a common failure, no matter the Make
Make sure the ipr or any sensor is oem!
100% correct! Be very weary of the supposed OEM stuff on Ebay too!
@@mikespence7250 lol the only reason I mention it is because that’s what happened to me. The ipr I got was defective and I spent 3 days trying to figure out what was wrong with it. Finally put the only valve stem with the new solenoid and presto!
I found out the problem.its a 20 year old "Ford". Scooby Doo can solve this mystery.
Profound.
Scooby-Doo would have to pony up 15 to 20 k to buy one of these