ASSEMBLING 5.7L HEMI ENGINE DELETING MDS AND UPGRADING TO 6.4 CAM AND VALVE SPRINGS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
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Disassemble video: • DISASSEMBLING 5.7L HEM...
how to on building a 5.7L hemi engine for the jeep hemi project this should work for your ram or dodge charger challenger or other suv as well . should personally im building this motor for a jeep wrangler jk hemi project. I delete the mds and upgrade the cam shaft to a 6.4 and valve springs to 6.4 as well. Hope this helps you rebuild your 5.7l hemi engine and replace the lifter and water pump as well as all the gaskets and seals.
Just finished doing an MDS delete in my 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi. Also put in a Melling high volume oil, MMX cam, Hell Cat lifters. This video was to best reference I could have asked for! Thank You!!!!! It’s a big job and took me 6 days. Now thats with the engine in the truck and working outside. It’s absolutely doable if you got the right tools and some mechanical abilities. My truck is very happy now and so am I. Once again thank you for the video. If you’re ever in VT drinks on me lol
Nice! Glad it helped
I was gonna say, GOTTA do the oil pump as well. Just got done with my 13 Charger 5.7, TSP choppacobra cam, hell cat lifters, same oil pump, aftermarket spring, jba shorty headers, and went ahead and redid the whole front end suspension and all around break while I was at it. Not a car guy at all, other then a new oil pump on the wife’s Durango this is my first big under the hood job. TH-cam is a blessing man, and like you said, shout out to these guys who make these videos!!!
As someone who has never worked on an engine, but maybe endeavoring on this journey very soon, I can't thank you enough for this. Awesome info. Thank you for filming the whole process, start to finish, and not just cutting it to a quick 10 or 20 minute video. You're a great teacher 👍
If it’s a 5.7 you’re working on it’s easy man first big job I ever took at my shop was a rebuild of a old 4 door cop car with the 5.7 put a choppy cam in it and everything there’s plenty of kits out there with tuners and everything you need
Doing the same diving into my 04 ram oil pump😳
Just nuts and bolts man
No! He's not.
Hope you do it right the first time if not your going to cry later😂
Followed your video for my ram. Good news. I didn't cry!! Thanks!!
I'm sure that you've heard of this before, but I learned a tip a few years back about removing and replacing the valve collars. Use a magnet to remove them, and then use a little thick assembly grease on the tip of a push rod to seat them back in. The grease should hold the collar to the end of the push rod, so you can seat them in without dropping them repeatedly. Not judging. Just try to spread something I've learned. Thanks for the video!
Don’t go ham 😂😂😂 best example video on TH-cam‼️‼️‼️ hands down
Thanks a lot for this video man helped me save thousands of dollars . Just a little confidence in your self to take on a task like this is all it takes . Currently working on my jeep and you don’t know how helpful this is to watch and follow🤙🏽
Glad its helping. Enjoy the journey and celebrate the results 🍻
One thing not to do, use a wire wheel to clean your head gasket surface. Especially if you're not hot tanking the block after or have access to a machine shop and be able to fix the surface after . They do sell the proper abrasive bristle to use with a power tool but they're meant to be used on complete teardowns and extensive block cleaning (oil galleys) is required to to make sure the residue doesn't ruin your bearing surfaces. In vehicle head surface prep, is best done with a plastic blade(if you haven't done it before) or razor blade (extremely carefully to avoid gauging the surface and lots of gasket cleaner/solvent. The surface needs to be clean and smooth with no gasket residue, don't worry about colour and making it look shiny new and damaging the surface. Whatever you do, do not remove any material especially when cleaning the aluminum heads that are soft and easy to damage.
Thanks for your input and tips in the comments dl. I was monitoring very carefully when cleaning the heads up to make sure i was not scratching up the surfaces and also went over with a fine tooth comb for any wire bristles
@@ghostlyrich the issue is the oil galleys, you can never be 100% sure nothing went in or be able to clean them in vehicle. While you're working on a project engine that you can afford to rebuild, when working on a customer's vehicle it's a different ballgame.
Obviously this isn't meant to discredit you or your experience, simply to spread the knowledge and identify potential issues down the line with such an approach, for others that will view your video and might not be as careful.
@@DL101ca its definitely worth noting, thanks again for your input
I agree with you.. there's some people that just send not be making videos like this and next thing you know causing other people to ruin their engines as well causing damage to the engine if they don't know what they're doing they should just leave it to people that know what they're doing this guy we are watching now clearly is not a real mechanic I'm only still watching for laughs and giggles😂
@@shawngivens5350we all have to learn somewhere. You being a mechanic and laughing at someone doing something they clearly enjoy is lame on your part. Begetter you could’ve easily made a positive comment or said nothing at all.
Hello excellent video, congratulations !! I have been looking at your hemi 5.7 reconstruction, since I must rebuild mine due to failure in the lifter, I only have some doubts, the camshaft you used is without MDS? What model of Jeep Grand Cherokee does it belong to? Did you use the 5.7 stock pushrods or what pushrod did you use? That code did not show it in your video.
To delegate the MDS of the PCM, did you do it with the Aphaobd? or how did you do it?
I hope you can answer, to proceed to buy and then launch with the project thanks your videos are very helpful !!!
9:43 U wanna V4 😂😂 this a great video to watch at 4am 😅
I am just waiting for time this yr, when I sell my house so I can do everything all at once ,keep you posted
you must be a man of vast patience. anyone doing this type of job just buy a good c clamp spring compressor and just use a bit of assembly lube to put the valve keepers on during assembly. watching this was so painful. lol
A c-clamp is ok, but if you make a set up similar to an arbor press two compress valve springs where you can just pull the handle and done less than a second then move to the next one you'll never do it the conventional way again lol. What we used to assemble engines when I was doing light aircraft engines. We would stick a cylinder in a fixture with two levers you could put springs, retainers, seats, and keepers on intake and exhaust in about a minute. After using that I had to have one at home so I built my own
I'm soaking up so much knowledge, THANK YOU SO MUCH!
anymore I really appreciate videos like this where I get to see every step of the process! I broke a valley solenoid and after I saw you broke 3, I was relieved lol! Thank you for this!
Wow! Thanks for a very informative and detailed video. Your narration skills are off the charts! Ha! I'm about to tear down my 5.7L 1500 with the dreaded seized lifter/camshaft failure...2nd time with this truck. First time at 100K miles and Dodge covered the repair. Now at 234K miles, it's on me. I'm deleting the MDS and I really like what you did with the 6.4L camshaft and lifters...seriously thinking of doing that. I know I'll have to tune it anyway. BTW, I highly recommend the electric fan from the V-6, to delete the stock fan and clutch. It's powered from the A/C electric fan plug, and with a tuner, you can set that power supply to "on" full time. Otherwise, it's only on when the A/C is on. Thanks again for the great video!
I went to the Camaro ss fan since the motors going in a Jeep Wrangler jk haha. Electric fans definitely the way to go
Dodge covered the repair at 100K miles????
How did you work that out?
My Jeep just started "misfiring" - and it's not the plugs or coils...
It's amazing how often the 5% failure of cam/lifter gets reported on social media. It is a weak point but not as co..o. as they would hab
Very you believe.
hey any update my 2013 is at 235k and same issue misfire in cylinder 8 want to do the same
Hey Man,THANKS. I'm buying a ram and i wasnt sure if it had issues if i could fix em i own all cummins so this really gave me confidence in my purchase.
Heck yea man its a push rod. I always say to friends who want project cars with there kids or just build there first motor push rods are great, simple (compared to bmw) lol fun motors to work on, and make good reliable power :)
WOW! Your video was extremely informative. Thank you very much for taking the time to go over this. Much appreciated!!!
I made my own spring compressor with a giant C clamp and the middle section of that harbor freight p.o.s. You just need a piece of ply wood on the bottom of the head. That $ 15 compressor will either frustrate you to death or you’ll lose some skin when it breaks loose. It made rebuilding my 07 5.7 all the easier. Imo the Hemi is the easiest motor to work on. Hands down
Nice video work,good explanation on what to look out for,very important when doing a tough job, thanks much for the effort.
First off. Amazing detailed install. Great personality. Second, where can I find all torque specs and sequence? I think my cam is done for so I'm thinking of exactly what your doing in your video. Thanks for the amazing show.
I say the difference torques specs and sequences through out. If you feel unsure there is allot of good reference off google I have used before
You can get any shop manual imaginable on e-manual online. My first manual was supposed to be for 2000-2006 Chevy trucks but only covered 200-2002, so if you have any problems e mail them and they’ll sort it out for you. I got a Magnum shop manual for 2005-2006. It rocks. There are some odd things not in it that I would have expected, but it is quite thorough and definitely has all the torque specifications for every single part on those cars.
Great video. What was the difference in HP after the conversion. And can you tell me all parts numbers use for this project. I know you show the numbers but will love to get the exact same parts that you use. I have a 2014 Challenger Shaker 5.7L with a manual transmission, so I don't think I have the MDS.
I wish i had this when i built mine. I had to read actual shop manuals! No, it went really well except for a few things i couldn't find answers for without diving into the God forsaken forums. They have a ton of info and knowledge from the retired and board master mechs of yesterday, but there's gotta be a better way. Videos like this are that better way man. Thank you
13:07 Nice and Nice 😂 Smoke a blunt and watch this video OMG this is great 😂😂
i took a 24" piece of pipe and welded a bolt in it to screw into camshaft where you don't have to hold cam on the lubed part
Garage built tools are the best kinda tools.
This is a great tutorial series you did. I have a 5.7 and these videos will come in handy if anything goes wrong or I decide to do the 6.4 swap.
Thank you so much for the great video and work that went into it.
Not hating just suggesting for anyone wanting to make these kinds of videos. I would strongly recommend investing in a go pro or something similar that has the head band mount so its always looking at what you are and is hands free, you can pick them up fairly cheap nowadays and they stay focused better and require no attention once set. Which results in a better quality video for viewers. A couple of times trying to show and explain the process the camera was way out to lunch, like when he was dropping the collars into place we were looking at the top half of the spring compressor so didn't see any of it. Other than that the video itself explained things well and it was a good informative video im sure someone learned from.
lots of great info but one thing to remember :LEFT and RIGHT are always from the driver seat and not standing in front of the car
Exactly this as it sits the head gaskets are installed incorrectly per the instructions of the video
I corrected it in the video and owned the mistake
Always wonder always seems to be differ of opinion on this.
Currently struggling with play in the push rods. Tomorrow gonna do it exatly as you did 🤞
No fricken way I got it. Thank you so much it was driving me insane. I did also do new front and rear lifters stock mds, new cylinder head with all hardware already installed. No play now ❤
What's crazy is I had the pushrods in the correct holes, I did however have the rail itself upside down
Almost done with the whole video, great information!
I am about to pull the motor out of my 1500. Any advice on which Cam kit to go with? I would like a more aggresive tone, but not sure im willing to spend $2k+ on it. Wondering if i Should i just stick with the stock cam... Thanks!
Mostly between all the parts and the additional tune needed, it might be overkill for my weekend/daily driver. Just wanted it to sound nice and have a little more power.
(Full family and everything is expensive nowadays 😂)
2k included all gasket and lifters. If you want to keep vvt stay mopar 6.4, if you dont care about the variable valve train tuning grab a comp cams kit.
All options past oem need a tune but that being said shouldnt take a tuner more than a hour if your not dynoing but personally if you have a intake and exhaust i would definitely dyno tune for some extra hp. Will make the smiles per gallon go up.
We put 6.4L hemis as they are inside of 2 door rubicons all the time! We can pull replace and tune inside a day at either of my speed shops been doing it since there was 6.1L hemis to put in those rubicons!
Be one long day haha id atleast give my self two if i had every part needed, glad to hear your shops have mastered it :)
Figure its been long enough to say, this was the first time i bothered filming a engine build video as i knew allot of other mechanics would come here to nit pick every last detail, and to be honest i dont mind as it helps even myself to become better.
I know the valve springs part was brutal and i should have grabbed the better one for my home setup. Lol i should have used new valve seals to satisfy the viewer and for extra reassurance. The “keepers”😂 should have been pulled with magnets to make it easier. Use a scotch bright pad to clean up the heads to avoid any chance of material removal and wire bristles ending up in oil galleys. If doin aftermarket cams fallow manufacturers instructions on valve springs in case they need to be shimmed.
Wrench on motor heads
How many miles were on engine& do you think
A hell cat oil pump would help lifter going away?
@@thomashartle2820 hell cat oil pump will help with better oil pressure to get up on the rollers and cam lobes which in theory will help prevent lifter failure
Did you remove the magnets from below the MDS solenoids? Very important step.
Yes lol thats why even in the video i always say suck the spots out with a vacuum just to make sure all debris and left overs are pulled out.
@@ghostlyrich most people don't know that there are tiny magnets on the bottom of the mds solenoids that sometimes gets stuck in the block and the only way to get them out is with a pair of long tip needle nose pliers. You should create a video instructing that these must be removed in this case.
Suffering through the first bit doing the valves, I kept thinking, "Where's the magnet for holding those keepers?"
Why do you need a magnet
Insurance to keep small pieces from falling into tight spaces @@jeeplivion
One dab of grease is what just about everyone I've ever met recommends for holding those keepers in place when you're assembling. Using a magnet to pull them out is also another way to make your life a lot easier. I do use a magnet to remove keepers just because it's much easier, but I spent a few years building engines all day and my specific job was to put valves in I can pretty much grab two keepers at a time slide them in without even looking and release the spring about 30 seconds per valve. Practice makes perfect
@@jamesh978 Absolutely on a smear of grease to hold the locks when reinstalling. A magnetic pickup tool is very handy to get dropped lock pieces too.
This looks like it’s a long process 😅
I thought I commented on this video a few minutes ago. Somehow it didn’t post. First off, great and detailed video brother. One question, can we use the same push rods? I could have sworn that the MDS engines had different push rods than the non MDS
Can use same push rods the lifters are the same size just dont collapse, when using aftermarket cam and spring combos is usually when push rods need to be changed out
very well explained , i truly appreciate this..
hahaha i liked that, "now you don't need to be like me, but i like to me like me" that's a good saying for sure
1:06:43 Why do you have to drive against the direction of rotation? I learned to always drive in the same direction.
You don't have to, but it won't damage anything.
I made the gasket mistake on my fist cam and lifter swap, funny thing i assembled it all the way 😂, while filling the engine with coolant i had steady stream of coolant on both side of the engine. It sure made me get better at it, ive done 4 lifter and cam swap up to date
Man I've done this with the water pump on a 5.3 except I forgot to hook up the lower rad hose.
"Whats with the rushing liquid sound? Oh SHIT"
Once you've done it twice, it will never happen again. Always make sure the gasket matches the coolant passages and oil galleys properly, sometimes we rush the most important part and it always bites you in the arse. At least it only cost you your time some coolant and nothing else.
Keepers remove nicely with a small magnet.
Excellent video, do you recommend a larger stall converter for the 6.4 cam in a 5.7 charger rt? And if so what size? Thanks
You could definitely in high horsepower applications, i have it in my jeep and im actually probably going to go back down because the the 3000 shift rate i have is brutal on hills haha
This is such an in depth video. But I am utterly ignorant of how to change a cam right now. Is there any particular way you need orient the cam when putting the new one in? Or is there only one way that it will fit in?
Cam goes in and then sprocket slips on the indicator, the sprocket has the timing indicator dot you use to time the came to the crank :)
I know this video is old but do you have all the part numbers listed somewhere?
Love how you explain things, question if I put 6.4 springs lifters and camshaft and I don't do mds delete is still ok, or it doesn't help me if I don't do mds delete?
I have never actually left the Mds hooked up during a cam swap out just because of the problems associated with the MDS system. It’s hard on your rotational assembly and transmission to torque converter when it jumps into four cylinder and 8 Cylinder mode
Uuups I was asking cause I already bought my 6.4 camshaft and lifters with mds, any suggestions will be appreciated.
@@JuanDominguez-nw8rq you could use it still. I would suggest you do a stronger oil pump, depending on year some people run the hellcat oil pump that way you can get more flow up to the lifters so they don’t fail. Im guessing your not able to exchange lifter to non mds ?
So change lifters to non mds and hell cat oil pump.
@@ghostlyrich 2015 5.7 charger engine
how different is eagle and pre eagle? is it just the heads different?
I have my 5.7 and 8 speed in the garage waiting on all the other items to show up for my 2011 jku other than the pre runner valve what do you need to change for a car intake to work ?
I made a video on it, had to grind down the throttle body just a little bit. If you have the extra budget the holley sniper intake is awesome and is a great option, apparently no modification at all
Plaese can you tel us the number part of the cam, I can see it in the video
I am curious... did you do all of this and not up grade the oil pump? I may have missed it. Very well done "how to" informative video.
I did not :) but in the future if i notice oiling issues i will put in the hellcat oil pumpor another brand of high scavaging oilpump
Awesome video, I was wondering if I could do this to my 08 Jeep Commander Overland Limited 5.7 Hemi, It has 188k on it, I hate the MDS on it, any suggestions would help me a great deal and I appreciate your video it's very informative...TIA
You could definitely do mds delete. Well in there could even do oil pump and timing chain and tensioner if you wanted
Omg the head gasket!!! I’m so glad you caught it! Great work
Thank you just got a magnum drove it home told it was flex plate nope dropped a valve seat gonna rebuild it and remove mds
Great video. Super helpful! Thank you.
I just finished assembling my hemi and it was running rough and have p0300.
I'm about 95% sure my timing was on point.
I'm thinking it's the pushrods and rocker arms.
I pulled out passenger side and double checked and still having the same issue. I'll pull the other side next weekend.
I'm not sure if I'm installing pushrods correctly. Do they pop in and are some what held/locked in place??
Any recommendations is greatly appreciated.
Again, great video.Thank you
If you were able to sort out which cylinders were causing the issues it migh by one of the coil packs even. The rods just slide down into the bottom of the lifters
@@ghostlyrich thanks for your reply... I figured if that was the case, I would get another code for a certain cylinder misfire. But I have a buddy coming over to connect his nice shiny snap on scan tool to pin point the issue. Will report the issue just incase someone else incounters the same issue
@@ghostlyrich I took of the passenger side valve cover and what do you know, one of the exhaust pushrods was out of place!!!
You said it in your video multiple times! Lol. I can't believe it. But that was my issue
@@albertcossio3297 awesome!! Glad you found it
@@albertcossio3297how noticeable was the push rod was out ?
Great video! How did MPG change with these modifications?
16.5
Great video. I’m having issues torquing the camshaft bolt. Every time I get to like 50 ft pounds the crank rotates. I tried with the wrench against the frame and it won’t work. Any other suggestions how I can hold that crank. Am I supposed to install the oil pump before attempting to torque the camshaft bolt?
You can throw the whole timing set up together thank crank
Nice video, quick question, what about the phaser lock? I believe that is needed in order to delete MDS, right?
No, phaser lock is for deleteing vvt. Which is deleted when using various of aftermarket cams.
Since im using 6.4 cam no cam phaser lock needed
Very informative video! Thank you for sharing.
Is it the same process on a RT 07 ? Same parts ? thank you
Are you doing this in your living/dining room???
Did you ever put it in the Jeep, want to see how it turned out
I sure did i even have the 1 year review up she fits realllllly close in a 2 door haha
Awesome Job , ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Excelent Machanic ⭐️⭐️"You Rock"⭐️ Your Very Discripted and Take TheTime and Patients To Show Viewer's Whats going on how to replace and fix the issues ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️Great Work / ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
hope everything went ok w/o assembly lube on rocker assembly
Depends who you ask Chrysler techs say don’t bother, some say to soak them over night in oil. Comes down to preference in the end there known to rattle the first little bit after start up for the first bit
@@ghostlyrich not the lifters if I'm reading you right. I meant the push rods and rockers. I'm guessing everything went ok though. thanks for replying.
@@72chevelle156 oil pressure is achieved in seconds, if not less and there's oil holes sending oil to the rocker assembly through the hollow pushrods on all contact points. No abnormal wear will happen, not any more than at every startup of the engine.
@@DL101ca just an observation
@@72chevelle156 how would you reassemble them bro ? I did mine, but I'm not sure,if some rods were loose. I did each bolt 195 inch lbs. But it also could have been my springs, I just got my mopar performance springs in today & going to install them
how much of performance does the 6.4 cam,etc give the 5.7?
About 60 hp
hey my friend thanks for this very detailed video, are these lifters the ones for the 6.4 as the cam and springs or the 5.7 ones? and also do you think this combo will fit and work for my 6.1 grand cherokee??? thxxx again
I don’t the cam will because of vvt
Question. I’ve aligned timing TDC (so I think) and my cam will NOT pull. I’m hoping it’s not a spun bearing. Any advice??? Please let me know.
Cam will not pull ? Are you trying to remove the cam or saying the engine has no power ? To remove the cam, you need to remove all pushrods, give the cam a few spins by hand(obviously timing chain is removed at this point) to push the lifters out of the way, put the cam bolt back in a few threads and use it to pull the cam out. Once past the bearing, need to work it by spinning to clear the lobes as you pull out. The first pull takes a bit of force to break the fluid seal created at the bearings.
@@DL101ca I was able to. It got hung up on one of the cam bearings for some reason. It took a lot of patience, but it’s finally out!
Hey bud! question did you forget to install the little hook or blocker thingy? is like a mds delete too that goes on that timing chain circle parden my ignorance. Thanks for the vid.
Are you talking about a cam phaser lock out?? It is not used on the 5.7 and 6.4 cam
@@ghostlyrich yes that!
Awesome video brother, I have a few questions I have an 06 charger rt with the 5.7 and I've been thinking of doing the mds delete and upgrading as well. I like the idea of doing a 6.4 cam and intake and I'm pretty sure alot that you showed here would work for me but would you recommend doing the bottom half of motor as well so it's all fresh? Would the 5.7 injectors, throttle body, transmission and rear all work with this setup and just have to be tuned?
Exactly, depending on your kms you could do a new timing chain well the covers off and reignited just posted a awesome video on putting a hell cat oil pump in to increase oil pressure to get oil up to the lifters easier.
My 5.7 is out tge car but uma do a billet comp cam stage wit that you have to delete mds wit a billet timing chain kit hellcat oil pump is not necessary the stock oil pumps are good for 550hp now if you will have more power than that yeah hellcat pump
@@vee950 very nice I only mentioned the hellcat oil pump because people say it gets oil up onto the Cam and lifters a little better with the additional oil pressure. It’s double the oil pressure of stock.
@@ghostlyrich I watched his series of videos on that subject. Was a very detailed and simple logical approach and explanation and I'm wanting to get a ram 1500, preferably an '09 or newer Because the hellcat oil pump did not directly fit the block on pre '09.
And as soon as I find one of my liking, I'm having the cam and lifters and springs swapped regardless of there's a tick or a knock sound whatsoever. If it's used and has over 100k miles why not right? It's only a matter of time it will have the tic and while I'm doing that might as well remove the old exhaust manifold and put on some shorty headers.
What did you do regarding plugging the 8 spark plug holes that you no longer need?
Plug them with iridium
@@ghostlyrich I didn't realize that MDS delete doesn't delete the dual plug format. Yes. Crazy of me. I know. 🤷🏻♂️
Hey...at least I'm learning.💪🏻🤓
What camera are you using to film this? Great quality.
Sony A6500
Hello, I am worried about something, Where does the Oil the MDS Solenoid get the oil that it Send to the MDS Lifters?
The solenoid simply sits in an oil galley pressurized by the oil pump and when the MDS kicks in or out it activates to stop or allow oil flow to the collapsible MDS lifter in the deactivated cylinder. It's a good idea to remove the old solenoids from the block if deleting the MDS as the delete plugs make sure full oil flow is supplied to the non MDS solenoid now replacing the old collapsible one.
@@DL101ca Is there any harm in Leaving the MDS On with A Non-MDS Lifter? Won't it Benefit from the Extra Oil going to it? 🤔🤔
You will get a fault code
Very informative video i did this without pulling the engine im a smaller guy so i was able to stand in the engine bay lol i did change the oil pump and timing assembly to a hellcat oil pump thank you for this very informative video i like these engines even more than the chevy 350s they are pretty simple every engine has its flaws but atleast you can work on these at home and save yourself a few grand
Man your a great teacher, for someone who has never worked on anything but ford and chevy engines, i think I'm going to take a swing at my 5.7 for cam swap.
Nice! Im going to build a LT motor for my c7 next :)
lmfao! you are joking right?
😂😂omg
I just pulled my 2004 out. Non mds. I notice yours is newer anything you can think of like coil bind if I try this? I heard eagle heads can afford more Cam lift without coil bind. Which I unfortunately do not have.
Did you have any issues with coolant leaking on the head gaskets? In my understanding, the left side is the driver side. You read the engine as you seating on the vehicle
Left side is driver side if your leaking coolant its probably backwards
@@ghostlyrich 39:56 you put the left gasket on the passenger side of the engine. And I can see the holes didn't line up
@@terrysmith4279 you are correct sir and i addressed that in the video :)
@@ghostlyrich did the 5.7 hemi go in your jeep? Factory? Or swap. I would love some information on how the wiring went. And if there was any pre made harness for it
Yes, I built this 5.7 to convert my old 3.6 jk into a hemi jeep :) i have a whole video series on it on my youtube channel you might enjoy
Hey man. Did you have to do anything with the Cam shaft sensor?
I did not
Do you think my 5.7 eagle could handle 6 pounds of boost with the 6.4 cam and springs? other than the fuel i was thinking about keeping the rest stock for now.
You can. It's all about the tune keeping things from breaking. A good tune is key. Just let whoever is tuning know you have a stock bottom end.
The 6.5 cam wasn't meant for boost, so a properly specd boost cam and tune would give you the best results since you're spending the money and going either turbo or supercharged. Don't do things half assed, especially if you want reliability. While it would work, there's no guarantee you won't experience a major failure costing you more than just doing it right the first time and not having to worry, trust me. You will feel much better pushing that engine without worry.
Im about to do the mds delete too do you recommend changing new push rods , cam phaser, valve springs
Focus on the cam and lifters if you want to you can put in a six for Cam, but then you need to do the valve springs and tune for it the other thing, depending on the age of your vehicle, you might want to consider putting a hellcat oil pump in and doing your timing chain depending on how many kilometres you have on your motor
@@ghostlyrich it’s on a 2014 ram has around 204k miles on it only reason I’m doing it cause it has the nasty tick sound coming from the lifters.
@@ReptarART at that age i would definitly do the lifters, cam and timing chain since your already in there and oil pump, water pump. Go to a 6.4 cam and valve springs if you like and a hell cat oil pump for more oil pressure if you want.
@@ghostlyrich think that’s what I’m go with and I’m going need a tune right ?
Am I able to do this on my 2010 Dodge Ram 5.7 Hemi? I’m assuming it’s the same engine? I think my lifters are done and looking to do a rebuild on my motor. Thanks!
Need to clean the dab of gasket seater at the bottom edge of the timing cover where the surfaces meet the oil pan and block. Then replace with a line of gasket sealant to seal up the joint between oil pan, timing cover and engine block.
You make look simple
Why change the springs when going to the 6.4 cam?? I’m curious. I’m hoping to build a 5.7 soon.
They require different spring rate for the lift of the cam.
Flathead screwdriver with a tiny bit of vasaline works wounders for putting the valve keepers back in!
A a speeder, a crank shaped device with the proper sized square drive makes running bolts down snug before torquing tight. A universal joint used with the speeder is handy as well To be sure the proper length bolt is in the correct hole put in a known right bolt and check the amount that it sticks out from it’s part to be clamped all others should by the same amount whether they are very long or very short. They will all protrude the same amount.😂 a light coat of vaseline wiped on “O” rings make the parts slide together easily and helps prevent the rings from curling out their grooves. A few things I learned during 40 years of twisting wrenches😊.
Is it cold in your shop. I noticed you had jacket on with a hood.
No heater and colder months
I installed the mds delete kit on my 2012 Ram 5.7 hemi. It started fine and runs fine but idles rough and the engine shakes a little . Is it the push rods not seated right ? Or am I supposed to have a cam phaser ? I have a stock 5.7 cam without mds from ams racing . Whole kit is from ams racing . Stock 5.7 cam without mds, hellcat lifters, new valve springs , and Pushrods. It just idles rough but runs ok . I took it apart with cylinder 1 at top dead center and cam pin at 12 o'clock just like you did . Only thing I can think is Pushrods are not seated right or maybe the timing chain might be off one link but I didn't move the chain . Any help would be appreciated 🙏
Any engine lights??? Check your map sensor on intake manifold is plugged in. Can definitely check push rods are seated correct usually you will get a code for push rods and thats how you track the cylinder but not always the case. Timing chain is most extreme case. Did you do oil pump and timing chain well you were in there. No cam phaser lock needed unless using upgraded after market cam. Did you already turn mds off on system. How olds your gas ( just incase trucks been sitting)
I'll check map plug. I didn't change oil pump engine was in the truck and didn't want to take oil pan off. MDS was turned off by tuner . Engine shakes at idle thats why I think it's Pushrods or maybe map sensor .
I checked map sensor at the intake tube its plugged in. Gas would be 2 months old . I did everything else just like your video. I watched the video while working on the engine lol . I don't get any codes at all. Only thing I can think is the Pushrods might not be seated right. I did rotate the engine 3 times and watched the rockers move. I changed the valve springs but to stock replacements and the ams kit was all stock except hellcat lifters .
Did you figure it out
I’m on the edge of my seat here
What’s going on 😮😮😅
Timing chain is off by a few teeth. Have to take the oil pan off and pull the oil pump then time it right. Take your time and it will work. I was in a hurry and the chain slipped off the crank and that's where the timing went off .
Great video. Very well layer out. How much hp will that cam produce
About 60hp
Also cam u send me the part number for cam.
I have a 2014 5.7 Hemi in a Ram 1500 sport. I’m pretty sure I’ve had a lifter failure and it’s eating the cam. I’d like to go ahead and upgrade with a 6.4 cam and lifters as well as delete MDS since I’m already going to be tearing it all down. Will a tune be required if I do this? Also, in your opinion, can I get away with reusing my stock pushrods for the 5.7? And last but not least, is the 5.7 you’re working on here the same as the 2014 5.7? I’d like to use the part #s you sourced if so. Sorry for the bombardment of questions!
It is a 5.7 from a 2014 ram. If you do a 6.4 cam you need to also do the 6.4 valve springs. Your push rods should be fine as long as long as there not bent but you would have much worse issues if they were. All these part numbers should work for your motor
And yes I highly suggest you tune so your timing is proper and you get the best out of the 6.4 add ons
@@ghostlyrich hey ghostly…great video man!!! Super detailed and to the point….i am in exact situation and will be doing this rebuild with 6.4 parts….so question is….when u say tune….what tune specifically did u set to?
@@alfonsoortiz2136 so what you would want to do is bring it to a tuning shop so they can go in with a software like hp tuner vcm editor for example and adapt for the new cam. There are TH-cam videos showing what to change in hp tuners when adapting your pcm for the new cam but it really is best to take it into a proper tuning shop as you will get results better suited to your vehicle.
@supercomp65 Very true. A tune is not optional once you delete the MDS.
Hey Man this an amazing video great job thanks for sharing 👍
Use a magnet to get the spring retainers off.. you are braver than I to use that compress tool .. looks scary 😨
C clamp style is definitely way nicer If I were to do this again I would probably order one
Great video sir
Ghostlyrich, you put on the head gasket backwards, coolant has to flow thru the block rearward then come up thru the rear coolant gasket opening move forward thru the head and and exit forward, remove the heads and swap gaskets or you will overheat and have thermal knocking shocks 10 to 15 min after start up, , my 10 Cts, good luck
Lol i say it in the video i did and show the correction :) coolants flowing fine
Thank you for the video. I was wondering how that type of compressor would work on this motor.
It will just be extremely careful its seated correct and stays seated correct as tou remove them
I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on what parts to get I’m wanting to do a mild cam upgrade to my 2008 Dodge Charger 5.7 but I honestly not sure what to even look for this is my first time getting into my engine
I would get valve springs, lifters(probably a good time to replace them anyway and start fresh with a new cam),MDS plugs if deleting, a new oil pump, timing gear set(chain, tensioner, guide and crank sprocket), crank seal, timing cover seal, head bolts(Torque to yield bolts are supposed to not be reused, if not stretched you could but better be safe than sorry and they're cheap), head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets since yours are pretty old at this point. Oil pan gasket/windage tray, they come as one unit.
Inspect pushrods for wear and tear and if they're straight(if not, replace). Also a good time to replace your spark plugs if you haven't done them in a while(there's 16 of them).
Hey pal. would you ever show how to do a engine rebuild pistons rods on a 5.7 please.
If i get my hands on a short block for sure. Im probably going to be building a lt 6.2 motor for my vette in the near future il go over allot of that stuff the hardest part really is making sure you get a balanced setup so you buy pistons, rods and crank and they balance for your then you just have to worry about sizing the piston rings and installing the bearings. Depending on your goals for the project sometimes its easier to buy a fully built short block thats been balanced and assembled and then you can build from there. Most important is making sure that setup is balanced :) also definitely if you are going that deep i would suggest getting the block dipped so its cleaned up as well as inspected so you know you know your working with a solid foundation would hate to rebuild it and have missed something. 5.7 is a meaty block so they might even suggest honing it a bit.
Sorry thats lengthy but hope it helps
@@ghostlyrich
Where did you get all your parts from? Around how much was it for all the parts
Purchased all through dealership, all parts including upgraded cam pieces about 2500$ cad
Your job is very cool bro, realy terapy.
Wish this video was up when I was rebuilding my hemi. What's the benefits of the 6.4 cam and valvetrain? How much did you gain?
Il let you know when I get it on the dyno apparently about 60hp gain
@@ghostlyrich any update with dynamic numbers?
@@slammedeuro104 I posted a video recently with the dyno results on 35 inch tires
So are you using factory 6.4 springs on the 5.7 heads
6.4 springs and 6.4 cam
Factory 5.7 heads
What intake manifold is that? Im trying to find the exact same type for my project
Forward facing is car 5.7 hemi intake, upward facing is truck ram 5.7 hemi intake, could just use a holly sniper
I notice that head gasket wasn’t correct. My anxiety went through the roof. Then in the next clip you fixed. Good thing! I did a set today with a stage 1 cam, heavy springs etc. The 90 degree in the final pass got me between 90 and 100 foot ilbs. The smaller bolts are 15 then 25 for older and 15 then 21 for the eagle motors.
Lol I definitely had a moment and was going to edit out but figured would give a few a good laugh
Nice job. I see you went with 6.4 valve springs. They have a different installed height than the 5.7 spring. I made that mistake once and ended up breaking springs after driving for a few months. Quite a different install height...
Wierd what exactly broke these 6.4 springs are still going awesome in my build after a year and i know a few builds that have had them even longer
@@ghostlyrich Yes, I've heard they can live You're just not getting the potential that you could get being that the springs are not set up at the proper install height. I work at corporate headquarters and review this with SRT airflow engineers and they highly recommend setting up for proper spring height for performance and reliability.
@@scottyk5627 interesting to note. Havent had any problems yet with a few builds here but will keep a eye on it. Thanks for the heads up
What's the the benefits of putting 6.4 camshafts?
60 hp gain