Splendid device for testing the dozens of relays in my 1990 325i with various bad wiring, connectors and/or relays: all.impacting Joy. Thanks for your time.
Im working on a similar project and stumbled on this video. You demonstrated exactly what I was hoping to achieve with my set up. Thank you for the tutorial as it provided me with more answers to several questions about my build than crunching numbers and trial and error has in the last month. Cheat sheet if you will lol thanks man you just catapulted my progress with the way you set this up.
Nice relay review. But on a much more important note, I fully agree with your strict prohibition on drinking beer before 11:00 AM. On the other hand, considering the very confusing complications of Australia's multiple time zones with offsets, involving Daylight Savings Time (DST), Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), Lord Howe Standard Time (LHST), plus AWST, ACWST, ACST, and AEST...I figure 7:00 AM is probably ok.
Nice test box Stu. I need to build one like it. Bad relays can be frustrating to nail down sometimes. They never seem to act up when trying to troubleshoot them! Your test box will make finding a bad one easier!
I don’t comment very often on videos. But I really enjoyed this. Excellent video. Thanks for your time, and I’ve enjoyed your great channel for a long time.
Love the idea - I searched for this hoping to find something that actually applies a load to the relay - many times my relay tester will say a relay is good but when you actually use it for a loaded circuit it fails. I’m going to build this box like yours but the lights will be high wattage halogen bulbs.
Good job Stu, relays are so simple but a pain of they're not working. I like you're work around and making one to have on the boat. I plan on taking it to the lake next week and shoot a video hopefully of a good run.
That is a very admirable philosophy there Stu, not drinking beer before 11 am, and yes, I can see how the Bundy Rum complies with that rule. Hmmm. Ahaa, got it, Your parents were Irish too I reckon, like mine. Good project and one I never thought of making although I have needed one on many an occasion. Thanks for the clear concise instructions, very helpful.
Great job, Stu! I wish I had you around when I was learning about relays. Would have made life a lot easier! You do a great job explaining and drawing it out on the chalkboard. Outstanding.
Great video! Extra bonus points for the chunky lamp bezels. But I'll have to subtract points for a distinct lack of wonkily applied embossed dymo labels.
i've been fixing everything under the sun for over 40 years and that is the first i ever seen a relay with two pin 87 connections!!!. nice gadget build. i will suggest using actual bulbed lights instead of led's for indicators that some may want to use. reason being led's draw such little amperage that a relay with badly burnt contacts may still show a false ok. ultimately the best would to have a high enough resistance to actually have a 15-20 amp draw built in. but your build will show if its working which most of the time is all you need. relays can be fun and usefull. had an energised sollenoid use to stop a diesel with a timer circuit and the relay was just the trick to make the circuit work. a $5.00 relay vs the correct sollenoid at $350.00 guess which route i went lol.
You can't beat a good cheap fix that's for sure! Oh, and I completely agree with you regarding needing the current draw to get a better test which is why I chose these lights as they are actually globes not LEDS. Not so easy to find these days!
Using relays on a daily basis, I wanted to see how you would explain how a relay works. Great job!! At 10min in, I noticed you didn't have the ground on Pin 86 connected. I smiled waiting to see if you edited the video without explaining. But you didn't. THAT deserves a Like and a share. You're not gonna use editing magic to make yourself look good. Huge Kudos.
Stu, you could also use the relay base mounting tab to run a strip of metal from the tab down to the case and bolt the metal strip to both, or move the relay base further in and use a piece of angle iron as an L bracket to do the same thing. That may be easier for most people that finding that plastic glue, although I have found plumbers PVC glue works on the Jaycar brackets and jiffy boxes. This circuit is also used for things like car windows and some electric kids toys like the trikes and cars, so it a pretty common circuit to be found. It is also handy to have a globe across the fuse ( in the jumper lead and the tester) . It will only light up if the fuse is blown, which can stop a lot of unnecessary fault finding !
Gday mate your a cluey bastard , if the old man was still here and seen this we would have been of to jacar in the morning to get the bits so he could build it great video .
Great video.. Will be collecting the parts to knock one together too.. I guess you could have a couple different types of relay holders and just wire them the same way so you can test different types.. I work on bikes and they use the smaller relays a lot too.. Nice one
Nice little kit stu! Only little tip I can give is to tie a little knot in the power wire feed to stop the cable from potentially being pulled back out. (don't worry electricity can still pass through :p )
No, don't tie a knot in the cable, use a proper strain relief. Tying a knot gets the electrons confused over which way they are expected to run and you can weird results
Ever hear of Radio Shack down south? Years ago they sold a similar tester and the individual parts shown. Do all marine relays have the same pinout? How about building a nice digital unit that stores the pinouts of every relay ever made, or connects to the cloud to get the data, and automatically changes the socket wiring as appropriate. Comes with every size socket also.
I don't know if RS had a presence in Australia, but I really was sorry to see them fold up (first in Canada, and then in the US). They got a bit expensive as time went by, and unfortunately, the focus began to sway away from parts and pieces... until the end when their staff knew nothing about resistors or diodes, much less relays, and all they wanted to sell you was a battery or a charger or a cell phone. I miss the 70's.
Yes, we had Radio Shack, and they folded because they moved away from the component sales to toys, TVs and the like where they were not competitive, much like Stan states below. Another local company -Dick Smith Electronics- kept Radio Shack honest price wise and outlasted them by quite a while. However Dick Smith got sold off to a big food based retailer and they took Dick Smith the same way as Radio Shack, with the same final outcome. You can still get to a 'Dick Smith' online, but that is just a web presence for a company called Kogan- and there is nothing special about either of their sites. At the moment we have Jaycar as a major hobby level retailer, with a slightly smaller Altronics keeping them honest price wise, Element 14 at a more professional ( and a far greater range of esoteric bits and industrial level gear) and of course Digi-key (pretty much element14 level of range) . There are plenty of other companies but all of those are pretty much 'mom and dad' stores.
I've been working on just that device day and night Bruce! Funny you should mention it as my very first job when I was 14-15 was working at a Radio Shack store. Ending up managing a store for a while after school then moved on.
Yes, it won't hurt anything to try. IF one of the relays is burnt/fried, then swapping the relays between their respective positions should allow the t/t motor to go in the other direction. Of course, if one of the relays is fried, you might wish to do some further checking (once safely back home) to find out if there is a wiring (or switch) problem that caused the relay to fail in the first place. Sometimes they fail from age, heat, but sometimes it's due to an underlying problem that causes them to heat and fail.
You can, as Stan says. He's dead right about asking why it died in the first place. The only other thing is if it has died completely and no current is flowing through it then when you swap them around you won't get your ground so the motor still won't move.
I just found your channel. Your videos are great! So much information! I am getting ready to rewire a boat so these videos are the best. I'm a new boat owner... I'm a new owner of an old boat. One video I've been looking for is on the flotation material under the floor of boats. I have an aluminum Blue Fin that was supposed to be leak free. I've taken out the floor to find some of the flotation material missing and the pieces that are left are not in very good shape. I've taken it all out to seal the hull on both sides but I'm wondering if the flotation material is needed or required to be replaced? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I will be doing this job when I add floatation to the boat I am building. You can go a couple of ways. You can put solid pieces of foam in a cavity if it can be locked in by screwing a deck down etc or, as with my boat build, I have a two part expanding foam that I am going to pour in.
I have a relay box, wires, and switch that is completely corroded and needs replacing. I wonder if I could add a switch to a version of the box you created and then connect this to the outboard motor and use it to move it.
Hey Stu, any chance you could do a segment on stator plates on a 2 stroke please? ie symptoms of a faulty stator before I replace one on my 50hp Tohatsu on my Thundercat which is probably quite costly..cheers
I'll add it to the list. It is generally a case of testing the resistance of the coils. There will be a spec for your outboard for what resistance range is acceptable.
An excellent demonstration of the workings of relays, and a pretty amazing job building that "bench tester", and the test lead, as well. Stu, are you using a new cam? It appeared that you used a combination of 2 cams when shooting this project. The footage is great, as it always is, but whatever camera you used for the bulk of the coverage at the bench, it's pretty damn good, and I don't mean to diminish the other cam...
Thanks Stan. A few people have mentioned the video quality and it's funny, it's the same cam throughout, but I just realised that I didn't compress the video before I uploaded it this time, that must be the difference. I normally compress because the internet on the island is so bad
I bought my boat used, it's older (1974) but came to find out a previous owner used 1 car relay vs marine relays. Should I be concerned? How urgent should I swap if need be? Thanks for all you do, have learned a ton!!!!
A relay is a relay. I'd keep using it till it breaks. The term 'marine' has become a term used by company's that make crap to pass their stuff off as quality products. Because we associate 'marine' with though and well built. I think unless you buy a name brand quality marine relay there won't be much difference with an automotive relay.
I would tend to agree largely with what AR1G3 says. I've spent the majority of my life dealing with heavy road vehicles, and since the 80's, the bulk of the relays used would by far NOT be considered waterproof, nor recommended for use in possible wet locations. It's not just the body of the relay that wants to be waterproof, but keeping the pins and socket shielded and water-tight would also be a consideration. The guts inside would be exactly the same, so whatever the rating of the relay is, I'd have faith in that much. As for being "marine-grade", if I were putting a relay in place, I'd be more concerned about how the entire panel would be shielded against water ingress, and just use whatever relay was available. But that's just my opinion.
Good point about protecting the entire panel against water ingress! A 'marine grade' 'waterproof' or whatever relay is no good when the rest of the relay panel isn't protected against water.
I think the guys have pretty much covered it, and a big thank you for doing so. It gets harder and harder to get to every comment so it is great to see viewers helping each other out. :)
Your boat is very near the same age as mine ('75) . As long as the pins point down and the relay is not getting splashed by water every trip I would do as suggested by the others. Your issues are more likely to be external pins connection than internal as the relays have always been splash proof. These days the automotive relays and plugs are all water proof anyway if they are under the hood so washing the engine doesn't blow the ECU/BMC .
You nearly lost me at Bundy, however I just managed to hang on, it was a close one! I use dual pin 87 relays for installing spotlights on cars, that way you don't have to try and shove both wires into one spade terminal when you run out of the yellow ones. ;-)
@@DangarMarineYou're a smart guy maybe you can answer a question that nobody else has been able to. I have some old relays and i want to know the amp ratings. They are not marked. It has to be a simple test??
Anything that draws serious current. I'd prefer to use relays where it isn't necessarily needed instead of not using them where they are needed. I'd definitely put them on an electric fuel pump, trim motor, stuff like that. Lights depend on the kind of light you use, but most of the time you won't need a relay.
Yeah, as AR1G3 says, pretty much anything that draws more current than you want to have passing through the switch, or if the switch is a long way from the device.
Hi Mate! I am looking at buying a new boat. It’s a 91 model stejcraft sport fisher. It is 17’. It only has a 70hp two stroke Johnston though. Do you think it’s to small a motor for that size boat?
About 5 years too late, but use incandescent bulbs instead of an LED, incandescent actually put much more of a load on your circuit (relay) than an LED does
Nice but this is not a LOADED tested. I have had a lot of relays that would pass this kind of test but fail when a loaded was added. Most relays of this type are rated at 30 to 40 amps. I have see relays past this but fail when a let us say a 20 amp load was added to the out put. I had one just today as a matter of fact. The relay would light my test light just fine but failed to trip the 30 load of the stater Bendix. A new relay fixed that problem.
Splendid device for testing the dozens of relays in my 1990 325i with various bad wiring, connectors and/or relays: all.impacting Joy. Thanks for your time.
Im working on a similar project and stumbled on this video. You demonstrated exactly what I was hoping to achieve with my set up. Thank you for the tutorial as it provided me with more answers to several questions about my build than crunching numbers and trial and error has in the last month. Cheat sheet if you will lol thanks man you just catapulted my progress with the way you set this up.
You have earned your electronics merit badge!
Nice relay review. But on a much more important note, I fully agree with your strict prohibition on drinking beer before 11:00 AM. On the other hand, considering the very confusing complications of Australia's multiple time zones with offsets, involving Daylight Savings Time (DST), Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), Lord Howe Standard Time (LHST), plus AWST, ACWST, ACST, and AEST...I figure 7:00 AM is probably ok.
It gets even worse in summer as one state refuses to go to day light saving time, so in the same time zone you have two different times!
I figure you just chose a drink that comes from a part of the world where it already is afternoon. ;)
I think the way you describe the process everyone will get it. I always refer to wiring as the same as plumbing. Great Video Stu!
Thanks mate, for sure there are so many similarity between plumbing and electrics.
Hey Stu! Thanks for the schooling on the relay contact numbering! I've wondered about it for years, and now it's clear! Cheers!
You're welcome mate. :)
Nice test box Stu. I need to build one like it. Bad relays can be frustrating to nail down sometimes. They never seem to act up when trying to troubleshoot them! Your test box will make finding a bad one easier!
Thanks mate, I think this is going to be very handy to have around from time to time.
So cool, all the years and all the relays I've dealt with In the auto world .this is so much better than the jumper lead ,building my own ASAP.
Thanks mate, hope yours goes well. :)
I don’t comment very often on videos. But I really enjoyed this. Excellent video. Thanks for your time, and I’ve enjoyed your great channel for a long time.
Thanks Jeff, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Love the idea - I searched for this hoping to find something that actually applies a load to the relay - many times my relay tester will say a relay is good but when you actually use it for a loaded circuit it fails. I’m going to build this box like yours but the lights will be high wattage halogen bulbs.
Good job Stu, relays are so simple but a pain of they're not working. I like you're work around and making one to have on the boat. I plan on taking it to the lake next week and shoot a video hopefully of a good run.
Thanks Tim. I hope the weather is kind to you for your lake trip!
Good job Stu.
Thanks Donald!
Hitting the thumbs up before the intro is over.
I love a man with faith! :)
That is a very admirable philosophy there Stu, not drinking beer before 11 am, and yes, I can see how the Bundy Rum complies with that rule. Hmmm. Ahaa, got it, Your parents were Irish too I reckon, like mine. Good project and one I never thought of making although I have needed one on many an occasion. Thanks for the clear concise instructions, very helpful.
Thanks Bruce. I always have a second clock set to Dublin time for just such situations. ;)
Great job, Stu! I wish I had you around when I was learning about relays. Would have made life a lot easier! You do a great job explaining and drawing it out on the chalkboard. Outstanding.
Thanks Tony. :) Oh well, hopefully there is a next generation of techs who this video is in time for!
I'm pretty sure that with 37K subscribers, you have helped plenty of people in time! :D
Thanks Stu, That was fun!
Great video! Extra bonus points for the chunky lamp bezels. But I'll have to subtract points for a distinct lack of wonkily applied embossed dymo labels.
Hey Luc. I was trying to think of a funky name for the tester to allow the dymo to be unleashed. Still waiting for that next beer with Joe! ;)
I reckon the "Relay Reckoner 4000 Mk7" is pretty catchy ;-)
Thanks Stu. There was s push pin release to remove cable.all fixed thanks
Glad you got it sorted Bruce (Sorry, I'm struggling to keep up with comments these days...)
i've been fixing everything under the sun for over 40 years and that is the first i ever seen a relay with two pin 87 connections!!!. nice gadget build. i will suggest using actual bulbed lights instead of led's for indicators that some may want to use. reason being led's draw such little amperage that a relay with badly burnt contacts may still show a false ok. ultimately the best would to have a high enough resistance to actually have a 15-20 amp draw built in. but your build will show if its working which most of the time is all you need. relays can be fun and usefull. had an energised sollenoid use to stop a diesel with a timer circuit and the relay was just the trick to make the circuit work. a $5.00 relay vs the correct sollenoid at $350.00 guess which route i went lol.
You can't beat a good cheap fix that's for sure! Oh, and I completely agree with you regarding needing the current draw to get a better test which is why I chose these lights as they are actually globes not LEDS. Not so easy to find these days!
ill relay that to my left head for future projects. bless up brother.
Love what you've done there. ;)
Using relays on a daily basis, I wanted to see how you would explain how a relay works. Great job!! At 10min in, I noticed you didn't have the ground on Pin 86 connected. I smiled waiting to see if you edited the video without explaining. But you didn't. THAT deserves a Like and a share. You're not gonna use editing magic to make yourself look good. Huge Kudos.
You have a sharp eye! Thanks. :)
Yes I am also noticed
Great video stu thanks for all your time
Thanks Mike, glad you liked it. :)
Great video, Stu! Much better with 50 frames per second!
Interesting, that must be because I didn't compress it before uploading this time.
Stu, you could also use the relay base mounting tab to run a strip of metal from the tab down to the case and bolt the metal strip to both, or move the relay base further in and use a piece of angle iron as an L bracket to do the same thing. That may be easier for most people that finding that plastic glue, although I have found plumbers PVC glue works on the Jaycar brackets and jiffy boxes. This circuit is also used for things like car windows and some electric kids toys like the trikes and cars, so it a pretty common circuit to be found. It is also handy to have a globe across the fuse ( in the jumper lead and the tester) . It will only light up if the fuse is blown, which can stop a lot of unnecessary fault finding !
Hey Ron, I like the idea of a globe across the fuse, that's a good idea. :)
Another awesome video. Very well done, interesting and kinda fun project. Thanks for doing all this. Cheers.
Thanks Keon, glad you liked it. :)
Excellent video Stu.
Thanks Bob!
Gday mate your a cluey bastard , if the old man was still here and seen this we would have been of to jacar in the morning to get the bits so he could build it great video .
Thanks mate, he sounds like he was my kinda guy. :)
Yep he was pretty cluey more than me built his own computer at 73 years of age new more about things like that than i ever will .
Great video.. Will be collecting the parts to knock one together too.. I guess you could have a couple different types of relay holders and just wire them the same way so you can test different types.. I work on bikes and they use the smaller relays a lot too.. Nice one
Good instructional video Stu. Like your rule no bear before 11, or sun over the yard arm, problem is it will be after 11 somewhere!
Gigs- I hope you mean beer- I am sure a bear at anytime is not a good thing to have- especially drop bears, though they are normally nocturnal.
Thanks Ron, yes that was a typo.
You've just got to pick a beer from the right country. ;)
Not even the enzedders will get that one! :-)
Nice little kit stu! Only little tip I can give is to tie a little knot in the power wire feed to stop the cable from potentially being pulled back out. (don't worry electricity can still pass through :p )
No, don't tie a knot in the cable, use a proper strain relief. Tying a knot gets the electrons confused over which way they are expected to run and you can weird results
great vid stu im off to build 1 right now.... lolly stick boomerang that is.. lol..
You won't regret it, they explode in a very satisfying way when they hit something. ;)
another great video. thanks
Love the videos mate keep up the great work 😁👍
Thanks David!
Ever hear of Radio Shack down south? Years ago they sold a similar tester and the individual parts shown. Do all marine relays have the same pinout? How about building a nice digital unit that stores the pinouts of every relay ever made, or connects to the cloud to get the data, and automatically changes the socket wiring as appropriate. Comes with every size socket also.
I don't know if RS had a presence in Australia, but I really was sorry to see them fold up (first in Canada, and then in the US). They got a bit expensive as time went by, and unfortunately, the focus began to sway away from parts and pieces... until the end when their staff knew nothing about resistors or diodes, much less relays, and all they wanted to sell you was a battery or a charger or a cell phone. I miss the 70's.
Yes, we had Radio Shack, and they folded because they moved away from the component sales to toys, TVs and the like where they were not competitive, much like Stan states below. Another local company -Dick Smith Electronics- kept Radio Shack honest price wise and outlasted them by quite a while. However Dick Smith got sold off to a big food based retailer and they took Dick Smith the same way as Radio Shack, with the same final outcome. You can still get to a 'Dick Smith' online, but that is just a web presence for a company called Kogan- and there is nothing special about either of their sites. At the moment we have Jaycar as a major hobby level retailer, with a slightly smaller Altronics keeping them honest price wise, Element 14 at a more professional ( and a far greater range of esoteric bits and industrial level gear) and of course Digi-key (pretty much element14 level of range) . There are plenty of other companies but all of those are pretty much 'mom and dad' stores.
I've been working on just that device day and night Bruce! Funny you should mention it as my very first job when I was 14-15 was working at a Radio Shack store. Ending up managing a store for a while after school then moved on.
Stu - nice one but for these sort of projects you would find Wago connectors, neater, faster and more reliable.
How about Suzyrude with the alternating solenoids. Those are always fun to figure out which one is actually bad
Sounds like another tester needs to be build! ;)
Latching relays are so much fun-not! But if you have to have them, give me magnetic latch over mechanical any day.
Wish I would give more then one thumbs up
Thanks Ethan! :)
Haha, kind of reacted on the missing negative lead as you closed the box, anyway......great video as always, rock on Stu! 👍
You should have told me! ;)
If the trim/tilt motor is only going in one direction, can you just swap the relays to see if the motor will go in the other direction?
Yes, it won't hurt anything to try. IF one of the relays is burnt/fried, then swapping the relays between their respective positions should allow the t/t motor to go in the other direction. Of course, if one of the relays is fried, you might wish to do some further checking (once safely back home) to find out if there is a wiring (or switch) problem that caused the relay to fail in the first place. Sometimes they fail from age, heat, but sometimes it's due to an underlying problem that causes them to heat and fail.
You can, as Stan says. He's dead right about asking why it died in the first place. The only other thing is if it has died completely and no current is flowing through it then when you swap them around you won't get your ground so the motor still won't move.
Another great video Stu! What was the beverage you were drinking?
Ah, that was a Bundaberg Rum, made in, well, Bundaberg. :) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bundaberg_Rum
I think you should do a short video on all the beverages that are needed to complete a good repair.
should have put voltage displays on it instead of the lights to test for voltage drops across relays. happens alot with corroded contacts.
Good idea!
We could use a guy like you here where I live ! lol
I just found your channel. Your videos are great! So much information! I am getting ready to rewire a boat so these videos are the best. I'm a new boat owner... I'm a new owner of an old boat. One video I've been looking for is on the flotation material under the floor of boats. I have an aluminum Blue Fin that was supposed to be leak free. I've taken out the floor to find some of the flotation material missing and the pieces that are left are not in very good shape. I've taken it all out to seal the hull on both sides but I'm wondering if the flotation material is needed or required to be replaced? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I will be doing this job when I add floatation to the boat I am building. You can go a couple of ways. You can put solid pieces of foam in a cavity if it can be locked in by screwing a deck down etc or, as with my boat build, I have a two part expanding foam that I am going to pour in.
I have a relay box, wires, and switch that is completely corroded and needs replacing. I wonder if I could add a switch to a version of the box you created and then connect this to the outboard motor and use it to move it.
I make pretty much exactly that in this video th-cam.com/video/T0Vf7mSUlUY/w-d-xo.html
Dangar Marine You totally read my mind.
Hey Stu, any chance you could do a segment on stator plates on a 2 stroke please? ie symptoms of a faulty stator before I replace one on my 50hp Tohatsu on my Thundercat which is probably quite costly..cheers
I'll add it to the list. It is generally a case of testing the resistance of the coils. There will be a spec for your outboard for what resistance range is acceptable.
What's the naming convention reasoning of pin 30, 86, 87 etc.? Why is it not pin 1, 2, 3, 4, 4a?
Good question Seth, they are part of a larger pin numbering system: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552
1234 were already taken for the security code or theirs kids names
Stu can you make a CDI ignition system diagnosis video?
Rick D
th-cam.com/video/MDbvkFM1V_c/w-d-xo.html
That's the one!
Damn must have missed that one! Thank you
I hadn't seen that one either, somehow. Thanks for requesting it Rick, and thanks for pointing it out Jimbo, and thanks for making it Stu !
An excellent demonstration of the workings of relays, and a pretty amazing job building that "bench tester", and the test lead, as well. Stu, are you using a new cam? It appeared that you used a combination of 2 cams when shooting this project. The footage is great, as it always is, but whatever camera you used for the bulk of the coverage at the bench, it's pretty damn good, and I don't mean to diminish the other cam...
Thanks Stan. A few people have mentioned the video quality and it's funny, it's the same cam throughout, but I just realised that I didn't compress the video before I uploaded it this time, that must be the difference. I normally compress because the internet on the island is so bad
Do you have a list parts
I bought my boat used, it's older (1974) but came to find out a previous owner used 1 car relay vs marine relays. Should I be concerned? How urgent should I swap if need be? Thanks for all you do, have learned a ton!!!!
A relay is a relay. I'd keep using it till it breaks. The term 'marine' has become a term used by company's that make crap to pass their stuff off as quality products. Because we associate 'marine' with though and well built. I think unless you buy a name brand quality marine relay there won't be much difference with an automotive relay.
I would tend to agree largely with what AR1G3 says. I've spent the majority of my life dealing with heavy road vehicles, and since the 80's, the bulk of the relays used would by far NOT be considered waterproof, nor recommended for use in possible wet locations. It's not just the body of the relay that wants to be waterproof, but keeping the pins and socket shielded and water-tight would also be a consideration. The guts inside would be exactly the same, so whatever the rating of the relay is, I'd have faith in that much. As for being "marine-grade", if I were putting a relay in place, I'd be more concerned about how the entire panel would be shielded against water ingress, and just use whatever relay was available. But that's just my opinion.
Good point about protecting the entire panel against water ingress! A 'marine grade' 'waterproof' or whatever relay is no good when the rest of the relay panel isn't protected against water.
I think the guys have pretty much covered it, and a big thank you for doing so. It gets harder and harder to get to every comment so it is great to see viewers helping each other out. :)
Your boat is very near the same age as mine ('75) . As long as the pins point down and the relay is not getting splashed by water every trip I would do as suggested by the others. Your issues are more likely to be external pins connection than internal as the relays have always been splash proof. These days the automotive relays and plugs are all water proof anyway if they are under the hood so washing the engine doesn't blow the ECU/BMC .
Weather must have turned cold to go the Bundy
It's getting that way...
You nearly lost me at Bundy, however I just managed to hang on, it was a close one! I use dual pin 87 relays for installing spotlights on cars, that way you don't have to try and shove both wires into one spade terminal when you run out of the yellow ones. ;-)
Thanks for hanging in there mate. ;) Sounds like a good use of these twin pin 87 relays.
What happen to the days when i could go to radio shack and buy all the parts to build these things.
Yes, Jaycar is our only parts store now.
@@DangarMarineYou're a smart guy maybe you can answer a question that nobody else has been able to. I have some old relays and i want to know the amp ratings. They are not marked. It has to be a simple test??
what if you are testing 24v relays?
Ok what I learnt is I should probably have relays on my trim motor not just a momentary switch What else should there be relays on in my boat?
Anything that draws serious current. I'd prefer to use relays where it isn't necessarily needed instead of not using them where they are needed. I'd definitely put them on an electric fuel pump, trim motor, stuff like that. Lights depend on the kind of light you use, but most of the time you won't need a relay.
Yeah, as AR1G3 says, pretty much anything that draws more current than you want to have passing through the switch, or if the switch is a long way from the device.
hi just looked at buying relay tester on Ebay around $15 bucks may be cheaper to make at home
You'll probably find it hard to make one for that price unless you can build it using bits you already have lying around.
Great video, you consider selling the relay tester.
Hi Mate! I am looking at buying a new boat. It’s a 91 model stejcraft sport fisher. It is 17’. It only has a 70hp two stroke Johnston though. Do you think it’s to small a motor for that size boat?
Doesn't sound too bad to me. My boat is 15' with a 40HP on it.
Dangar Marine thank you! I was worried that it might be very underpowered.
How big is the green machine aha
4.6 metres.
About 5 years too late, but use incandescent bulbs instead of an LED, incandescent actually put much more of a load on your circuit (relay) than an LED does
Ok this week no mask joke.
Also have no idea what you just said. Can you show us on an o/ b, thanks
Sure, I'll show the jumper lead on an outboard next time the opportunity crops up.
Dangar Marine ,thanks that will be good.
Nice but this is not a LOADED tested. I have had a lot of relays that would pass this kind of test but fail when a loaded was added. Most relays of this type are rated at 30 to 40 amps. I have see relays past this but fail when a let us say a 20 amp load was added to the out put. I had one just today as a matter of fact. The relay would light my test light just fine but failed to trip the 30 load of the stater Bendix. A new relay fixed that problem.
ياليت في ترجمه بالعربي
First