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Another benefit of running into problems and solving them is that the lessons learned make the next projects easier, and after a while it becomes second nature to minimize the possibility of loose ends in the code and hardware. When something is as good as it needs to be, it's close enough to perfection, and it's time to release the creation from the never ending quest for perfection. Should you ever condemn yourself to jump in the ice cold water again, a simple trick which will make the experience more BEARable is to cover yourself with cow grease (the non-toxic kind used to milk cows). Not only does it provide insulation, it also keeps you "dry" so when you come out of the water you won't feel as cold. Caveat: You then have to get that stuff off of your skin.

The resin prints would have worked if you better resin, an engineering resin such as lamg he art engineering resin doesn't warp and is not brittle

lobster

May i ask, how did you get the fuzzy skin on the bottom layer that was in contact with the bed?

Dang option 2 is way better!

Does fuzzy skin option available in Cura or creality?

Z-Hop is yuor Friend😅

If yuo want to print finish products with Resin , first Learn to Print in Resin , there is a learning curve , there are a lot of resins and parameters to know, second if yuo think yuo gone do this like the bombu in a Resin orinter like Creality or other , its not gone happend, but there are systems l like Formlabs , full ecosystem(and its expensive) , one click and yuo have yuor model , perfect in their own propietary cartrige Resins😊

I loved this video!! Thank you for sharing! It helped me out a lot 😊

Could you add the fuzz to only one side only .

get to point man

Cool!

Thanks for sharing! May I know your layer height and line width?

Thank you !!!!

My Secret to replacing layer lines with fuzzy skin.. There I fixed the title for you.

Thanks for the reply. Not going to change filaments any time soon. Bambu had a sale this weeked for 32% off and free shipping so I bought 4 more rolls of PLA. The printer is in my office inside my house so the med temp is probably 70 degrees and it is on a very stable surface. It is self-calibrating machine (P1S) and the temps are 219/220 c and 55/55c. Just a hobby for me and not a business so learning as I go and when I have time. Lots to learn! Good luck with your business. Again, thanks for your video, Tony

Why are you heating the acetone for abs? Its called vapor smoothing for a reason. Layer of acetone, parts elevated above it in an air tight container for up to 20 mins depending on size of part. Easy. And resin printing isnt faster because of less moving parts, its because an entire layer is printing at a time, and you can fill the build plate with no additional time, only height affects it. And its layer lines are normally about 0.05mm, you make it sound completely different. Not to mention im gunna go out on a whim and say you didnt chemically clean and uv harden after printing your resin... it shoulnd tbe that brittle

Whered you go Jake?

Bro decade long sook trying to find a solution to your problem, you obviously print things for people as a means of income, but apparently have never heard of prusaslicer... fuzz skin isnt exclusive to bambulab studio

Is there an equivalent to this in cura? My printers use cura as a slicer...

They make 3d resins specifically for strength. Warping sounds like lack of supports.

Little precision about tolerences, where pieces connect you can actually simply tell the slicer to print this part without any fuzz, for a bezel for example or a ridge. so you don't have to change your tolerences :)

Omg THANK YOU I was searching like hell for a solution.

thank you for your sharing, definitely try this when my printer arrives

than ks for the video, very useful as I want to print TPU on my A1 Mini - what shore hardness was the TPU filament?

Awesome! Thanks 🙏🏻

Great video! It surely contributes not only to avoid extra costs and effort to obtain a final product but also avoid a lot of polution with sanded microplastics and other harmful chemicals!

Pretty Print Experiments.

Thanks for making this! I was a little nervous to print with TPU for the first time but your video has helped.

Dawg- do the sanding and painting method once then create your own mold and cast your parts

You gave up on the prime and sand method. That's the only reason you were looking for new solutions and found fuzzy skin. Giving up is the first step towards working smarter not harder.

Thanks for your time to test it💪😊I will try it today😎

I'm not sure if fuzzy is actually better than visible layerlines. Sure it hides that it's 3D printed, but I'm not sure that's necessary

This is brilliant :)

Wow 🆒 thank u

Parabéns pelo seu trabalho. Sucessos!!!

Resin printing is not faster it’s actually way longer. Just because less moving parts does not mean faster. I would be curious to know where you got that information from. Probably pulled it out of your ass. Let’s not forget since you clearly have never resin printed in your life don’t forget about how the majority of resin prints will need supports which need to be removed, then the parts need washed in isopropyl alcohol and then fully cured once again. Process is actually a huge pain compared to FDM. Really shouldn’t spread misinformation on things you do not know because people will use one source of information and believe that it’s true and never question it. Hold on got through more of the video and not only did you buy a resin printer and try it and yet you still had the audacity to say it was faster even though you would have known this to be not true?!??! You said what about 3 hours on the bamboo printer to print you shell? I could only imagine on the resin printer with the success print it was well over 6 hours correct me if I’m wrong.

Should've stuck with the frying pan method! Also did you try abs like resin? Standard resin loves to warp and is brittle. If you want to try it again give sunlu abs like a go

Absolutely brilliant and you sound like you went through precisely what I am with my product, The Hughes Wave Motion Machine. It was produced in several varieties and companies from the 1960s to the mid 2000s when the primary manufacturer ended production. I've brought them back to popularity over the last 10 years. It's a decorative display that consists of a clear rectangular chamber called the "vessel", which contains a proprietary fluid formula designed to produce a lively display of waves when it is angularly oscillated. They range from 16"-30" in various form factors from the original manufacturer- Lava Lite (Yes, the lava lamp inventors) and were sold at Spencer Gifts and a few other retail outlets. The vessel sits atop a motorized pedestal I call the "base." Now I have a contract for a major corporation to produce a 60 unit run of my existing product for a handsome sum, but a completely different size which necessitates a complete design cycle due to the nature of my product. The current product used CNC routed acrylic that is hand assembled by a master fabricator of acrylics that I have worked with over 10 years and he recently disclosed he is going into semi retirement just as I got this contract, but agreed to produce the "vessel" portion for me on this run. So, I am left to my own devices to design, prototype and produce 60 motorized base units on my own by 8-31. 3D printing or a VERY simply acrylic or wood housing are my only options. I received my first mold quote from Fictiv for a preliminary design and you were spot on at $10,000, considering your housing has roughly the same size and feature complication as mine. Thing is, they also want $175 PER UNIT to FDM print them! For 17 grand I could buy the right printer and produce them myself! Thanks for this video and you have my Sub! @wavemotionmachines if you'd like to see my work over the years to get here. Edit: Where is the Save button to add to a playlist or is it just me that doesnt see it?

Matte filament, especially if it has a subtle texture like Protopasta's fiber filled PLA, is great for hiding layer lines. It's not perfect, but it does have a huge visual impact. And if it's not quite enough, you can still use a fuzzy skin, and you can scale it back substantially to improve print speed and quality. A layer of matte varnish or clearcoat also helps.

The fuzzy skin doesn't look too good, unless an object calls for it, it just looks cheap. I prefer the layer lines with light sanding.

Incredible video I love it

This is an excellent video. I'm learning 3D printing for car parts, and wanted to create dash parts that fit in without that "3D Printed" look. You addressed the issue perfectly and concisely. There's clearly a lot of data and time gone into this process - the editing is first rate. Thank you for this video, for taking the time and care.

Bro you got hammed on those quotes for molds

Resin printing is not toxic, how ever Burning PLA is. On the other hand mold making can be a valuable technique for creating final products from resin-printed prototypes. It allows for efficient reproduction of parts with consistent quality. Additionally, understanding the relative toxicity of different materials is important for safety considerations in various fabrication processes. Mold making could definitely be an interesting avenue to explore for those interested in turning their resin-printed creations into marketable products.

Resin printing is about the same toxicity as your laundry detergent in fact burning or taking a match to PLA like you did in your video is way more toxic than most resins. You might want to look into mold making. Resin print you part them make a mold from it. little more setup but the end result is a final product you can sell.

Thank you for sharing

I subbed just for the South Dakota mug

No failure, no improvement, Thank you for sharing

After working with plastic for over 20 years i can confirm "All plastic is highly toxic" the world lied to you