Fill up a container with engine oil put the mechanical part of the hub in it let it soak for awhile. I learned that trick from Powerstroke Help Bill many years ago. It works really well in our shop we always have lots of 15w40.
I soaked mine in some 0w20 I had and it worked really well. Being a PA/NY truck from 2015 that prob never had these turned, mine were almost impossible to turn even with channel locks.
Never replaced just freed up with a little penetrating oil, it so far has worked great. Sometimes that’s all it takes, no need for replacement, the exterior corrosion on the aluminum locks your hub for you. A dozen or so work trucks over the years mostly off-roading on residential properties (landscaping) and snow plowing in the NorthEast in very corrosive conditions. So if you are not locking your hubs regularly I guess you have to ask yourself do I really need a 4X4? A very thin narrow bead of all weather outdoor low temperature silicone helps to seal and weatherproof the hub. You give good advice. Especially liked your “no hammer” comment. Will be checking out more of your channel. First Ford was a used 1975 I bought in 1980 for $1000.00 don’t remember if they were f-150’s back then. Three speed on the column. Great truck. Really liked the column shifter. More 150’s, a 250, and a few 350’s some dually dumps and a couple of pickups. My latest is a 2010 diesel. Very good truck if you know what needs to be done to make it so. Just came in the door after replacing the hub assembly on a 2006 F350 4X4. Helps to have a long reach snap ring pliers. The damn ring was the biggest pain getting it off and back on. Last thing left is putting the lockout hub back on, and was searching for type of grease for lubrication and that’s how I found your channel. Thanks for the info.
My 2006 6.0 F350, required removal of original hub lock-outs, due to replacement of steering linkage, ball joints, and drive axle ujoints, to include replacement of driver unit hub assembly. Did not experience any issues of seizing, however, did always clean areas of rust formation and added additional grease when reinstalling. Good tip on maintenance of routine turning of hub selector. Thanks ARod
Good video. You scare the shit out of me every single time I see you start a bolt with the impact driver lol. I always try to start mine by hand cuz I’ve seen so many other peoples cross thread them.
Hey I'll take those old hubs! Every Super Duty we have have this issue every year with plowing/salting but you are right, I need to get on a routine and take 10 seconds and work them every week or so. We did replace a set on one of the trucks with Warn hubs and never had a problem after that.
Was it necessary to install a new unit? Looked to me like the hub needed a slight bit of cleanup and film of grease. By the way; use the rubber end of the plyers to turn the lock outs.
I replaced my factory locking hubs with warn premium. 93 f250 7.3 turbo. Wasnt quite as easy as the newer trucks, but still didnt take long. 6 little hex screws and a snap ring on the axle. I like having replaceable bearings instead of a hub assembly
Nice thing about floor shift 4x4, you're constantly locking/unlocking your hubs. Extra grease does help a lot when you're in there doing bearings and u joints.
Question. Before you put in the new hub lock outs is there a reason you did not hit that area with a wheel or something to knock off that little bit of rust? Maybe unnecessary?
Pitt watched your video and went outside to check the hubs on the 2019 F350 with 49549 miles on it I bought it last week. They do not turn even with pliers! I will take it back this week to get that fixed
I had no idea it was that easy. Mine are getting stiff, but I can still hand-turn them and I do once a month. I lock in 4x4 high, low, even lock the differential (gravel road about two miles long) once a month. Maybe when my hubs stop turning by hand I can handle this job!
My RV is in a huge gravel lot, so I’m in the habit of putting the transfer case in 4H while I drive around there, then back to 2WD before hitting the pavement again. Even though it’s gravel, I can tell by the understeer in turns that the Auto hub locks are working too. I manually turn them in too from time to time
I’ve had a hub turn freely but it would not disengage the axle, it was stuck engaged. It also wouldn’t come off. I ended up breaking it to pieces to get it out. The replacement was not cheap either.
Save your self $400 per hub... The silver coating that ford uses to color them swells. And makes it bind. I removed and completely dissambled the hub. Sanded the coating down to bare metal.. There better then new now. And don't ever stick again.
Replace both of mine last year on my 2011 KR F350. Had to replace both front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assemblies, so just went on and replaced these since this truck spent it's first 3 years in Canada! 😲😉 Thanks ARod!! Great Video as ALWAYS!!
Great video and reminder, now I've got to go check mine ('04 F250 SD 6.0l). One question, I noticed that there appeared to be some minor rust(?) buildup on the inside of the housing flange(?) once you removed the 4x4 hub, is that something that should be hit with a Scotchbrite pad to remove it and then clean the residue out before re-installing the hub?
Alot of people rely on the vacuum hubs and depend on the manuals if something happens to the vacuum side. But then you have this problem. I use my manuals anytime I can they're alot less prone to failure.
Thank you for sharing this! I'll be sure to follow your advice about turning periodically. I also appreciate many of the comments below with tips and advice.
ABSOLUTELY NOT all internal to the hub...the hub does NOT turn in the bore. It is splined. The hubs turn internal to themselves to allow vacuum to work
Ok. Just a bit confused. Did you replace the lockout because it was rusty and hard to turn? Maybe I missed something but once you pull that hub out, you should be able to clean it up and the lube it before you put it back together. Or I'm I just hoping they work like the older lockouts?
The NEW hub assemblies on the Dana 50 (1999-2004 SD's) and Dana 60 (2005+ SD's) front axle have throw away "Unit Bearings". The OLD hub assemblies on the Dana 60 front axle have serviceable "Timken Bearings".
I Take them off and throw em in an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green for an hour or so and they usually move again turn em a lot toss em in another half hour hit em with some compressed air, spray with wd 40 light coat of grease on internals and re-install.
After replacing the second set on my 2012 6.7 I just purchased the warn hubs and hopefully all the problems will be done. I do regularly service the hubs but the Ford OEM is just not working.
Trying to replace and I can't get the new hub to sit fully inside. You mention a peg. Could you elaborate a little bit on what the peg looks like? Is it a pin-like thing to make sure the orientation is correct? Thank you!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thank you so much! I'm not sure I understand what "the end" means. DO you mean to hold the outer rim (with the screw holes) and hold the inner knob that rotates 90 degrees to change between locked and unlocked?
I normally put wd-40 in and move it, but I have to replace mine, mine were stuck so much I couldn't turn em this time around, I'm hearing a popping sound when foot is on brake adjusting my steering to back into a parking space popping coming from driver's side, but it doesn't pop when driving and turning through an intersection though which is weird. It's just when I'm trying to adjust my steering wheel foot on brake to back in to parking spot, I might have to spray mine with wd-40 and move em or replace em, I have a disintegrating tail light housing that needs to be replaced as well.
Hey PTT. I recently did my vacuum seals on my 2015 6.7. I seem to remember the kit coming with a gasket for between the auto hub and the hub. Did they get rid of these gaskets in the newer years?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ah gotcha. Love your videos man. Love my 6.7 best truck I've ever driven. Do all my own work as well. Learned a lot from you. Keep it up!
Can anyone tell me if you can find a better locker hub for a 2019 f350 4x4 then the one ford has ive done broke 3 set and the last 2 time ive barely used them
I would say block off the vacuum ports and vacuum lines...or remove the lines. No need to allow dirt and micro sized particles to enter the hub via the port. Also, no longer need the solenoid that activates the vacuum. Call Warn, ask them to confirm.
Do they still recommend to drive with them locked periodically to keep everything oily? I changed the ones on my old 7.3 to mile markers when I first got it, no one ever locked them and the thrust washer ate through, no vacuum and wasn’t working on auto.
Arod! Reviving an oldie. My 18 has 4 on the floor which I ordered, with manual lockers. My 22 will have elec shift, lame... can I swap in manual lockers, and do something to the vacuum to trick the system? I use 2wd in 4lo often for trailer reversing etc, and am pissed the hubs will now be in “auto”
I’m trying to replace mine right now and for the life of me I can’t get it to skid in past the o ring. I can feel the first set of splines line up and the second will not start. Any tips or tricks. I’ve been trying for an hour.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i don’t know what was holding it up but I tried twisting it, jiggling it, spinning it, every combination imaginable and even spitting on it. Then all of a sudden after two hours it just slid in. All just to do ball joints. The old one fell apart when I disassembled it.
I have a 2024 F350 that has No manual lockout hub on passenger front axle. This is how it came from factory. There is only a hub lockout on driver side. Do you know if it is possible to put a hub lockout back on ? The vacuum line is plumb to that wheel and capped off.
Nice video. Question, I’ve heard some people especially in snow belt areas November until spring keeping them in the lock position so as to wear out the auto function sooner then it eventually will? Do you agree?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod yeah not sure either just wanted your opinion. I’ve heard of people keeping them locked if there transitioning where they’re changing terrain, but back in auto once you’re back on pavement makes since.
I changed mine on my old 6.4. The reason I changed them was while slowing down I would hear a clack, clack, clack sound and be I come to a stop a loud thump like metal breaking. I thought it was the tranny but I started with the cheaper parts first. I pulled the lockers and the splines were all chewed up on both sides. I had to clean metal shavings out the hole. What would cause this? Oh I got rid of that truck and got a 6.7 in 2019.
ARod is correct. The 6.4L powerstroke...park it in a bad metro area neighborhood and leave the keys in the ignition and the signed title on the seat. That said....The throw away non-serviceable "unit bearings" went out. the "unit bearings" are plastic encased...hence throw away. Much better to have the serviceable Timken bearings. Check Out DynaTrac and their Heavy Duty Free Spin Hub Kits (with either Warn Premium or DynaLoc),
Well up here in Canada that hub sells for over 400 bucks wholesale at Ford , I have tried taking them apart to remove the dial and sand out the corrosion that has built up between the 2 , but I end up with a hand full of smashed butt holes.
I'm working on a 2015 f550 I replaced the driver side because it broke apart and now I think the passenger side is f up too. When turning I feel a small hop. left or right it hops. What do you think it is?
I was driving in the snow today and got out and engaged my hubs. I got sort of a growling, clicking sound as I started driving. I'd imagine that is a tell that it isn't engaging the spline properly. Is that something that just happens? Or, is there a bigger problem going on? 2012 F250 120k miles
Big question! My 14' f350 6.7 won't go into 4x4. Just says check 4x4. Hubs turn, all 4x4 fuses are good, seems to have vacuum for a/c etc. Doesn't even try to go into 4x4, the code instantly turns on when I flip the switch
Fill up a container with engine oil put the mechanical part of the hub in it let it soak for awhile. I learned that trick from Powerstroke Help Bill many years ago. It works really well in our shop we always have lots of 15w40.
I soaked mine in some 0w20 I had and it worked really well. Being a PA/NY truck from 2015 that prob never had these turned, mine were almost impossible to turn even with channel locks.
I tear mine down once a year, clean, paint if needed and grease. It’s a part they say is maintenance free but that’s not true.
Never replaced just freed up with a little penetrating oil, it so far has worked great. Sometimes that’s all it takes, no need for replacement, the exterior corrosion on the aluminum locks your hub for you. A dozen or so work trucks over the years mostly off-roading on residential properties (landscaping) and snow plowing in the NorthEast in very corrosive conditions. So if you are not locking your hubs regularly I guess you have to ask yourself do I really need a 4X4? A very thin narrow bead of all weather outdoor low temperature silicone helps to seal and weatherproof the hub. You give good advice. Especially liked your “no hammer” comment. Will be checking out more of your channel. First Ford was a used 1975 I bought in 1980 for $1000.00 don’t remember if they were f-150’s back then. Three speed on the column. Great truck. Really liked the column shifter. More 150’s, a 250, and a few 350’s some dually dumps and a couple of pickups. My latest is a 2010 diesel. Very good truck if you know what needs to be done to make it so. Just came in the door after replacing the hub assembly on a 2006 F350 4X4. Helps to have a long reach snap ring pliers. The damn ring was the biggest pain getting it off and back on. Last thing left is putting the lockout hub back on, and was searching for type of grease for lubrication and that’s how I found your channel. Thanks for the info.
Welcome!
My 2006 6.0 F350, required removal of original hub lock-outs, due to replacement of steering linkage, ball joints, and drive axle ujoints, to include replacement of driver unit hub assembly. Did not experience any issues of seizing, however, did always clean areas of rust formation and added additional grease when reinstalling. Good tip on maintenance of routine turning of hub selector. Thanks ARod
I personally would have cleaned the rust and done some preventative maintenance on the hubs but good video
Good video. You scare the shit out of me every single time I see you start a bolt with the impact driver lol. I always try to start mine by hand cuz I’ve seen so many other peoples cross thread them.
Cmonnnnn
Haha, it's called trigger control.
@loft306 precisely
Hey I'll take those old hubs! Every Super Duty we have have this issue every year with plowing/salting but you are right, I need to get on a routine and take 10 seconds and work them every week or so. We did replace a set on one of the trucks with Warn hubs and never had a problem after that.
Was it necessary to install a new unit?
Looked to me like the hub needed a slight bit of cleanup and film of grease.
By the way; use the rubber end of the plyers to turn the lock outs.
Why, i am replacing them. Again, warranty pays to replace.....
Aaaaannnnd now im headed out to check my hubs! Thanks for the reminder! Don't ever think about something like that.
Seeeee😉
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks! You need to make a video of things that people forget about in the future!!
For sureeee
I replaced my factory locking hubs with warn premium. 93 f250 7.3 turbo. Wasnt quite as easy as the newer trucks, but still didnt take long. 6 little hex screws and a snap ring on the axle. I like having replaceable bearings instead of a hub assembly
Thank You. I am guilty and just installed new OEM hubs with the help of your video. $300 lesson learned.
Thanks pal
Thanks for the look inside! Why did you not clean out the rust ?
Clean it, itll happen again any ways. Does not affect operation of hubs.
Nice thing about floor shift 4x4, you're constantly locking/unlocking your hubs.
Extra grease does help a lot when you're in there doing bearings and u joints.
Question. Before you put in the new hub lock outs is there a reason you did not hit that area with a wheel or something to knock off that little bit of rust? Maybe unnecessary?
Not needed.....gonna happen again any ways.
Easypeezy , now you just made me go outside and check mine. And yup still works easy.
Hell yeah baby
Pitt watched your video and went outside to check the hubs on the 2019 F350 with 49549 miles on it I bought it last week. They do not turn even with pliers! I will take it back this week to get that fixed
I had no idea it was that easy. Mine are getting stiff, but I can still hand-turn them and I do once a month. I lock in 4x4 high, low, even lock the differential (gravel road about two miles long) once a month. Maybe when my hubs stop turning by hand I can handle this job!
Doing oil, air, and fuel filters in the next few minutes. Adding hub turns to my list!
Ding ding😉😉
Good info. Also lock the hubs and drive around for a few miles to keep the u- joints loose .
Nice
My RV is in a huge gravel lot, so I’m in the habit of putting the transfer case in 4H while I drive around there, then back to 2WD before hitting the pavement again. Even though it’s gravel, I can tell by the understeer in turns that the Auto hub locks are working too. I manually turn them in too from time to time
Thanks Jim. Do ya have to lock the hubs? Or will putting the vehicle in 4 high or low with the switch work as well??
Terrific job. I remember having to use pliers on my 85 Nissan king cab 4x4 years ago. I just lived with it.
I just spray it with wd40
I’ve had a hub turn freely but it would not disengage the axle, it was stuck engaged. It also wouldn’t come off. I ended up breaking it to pieces to get it out. The replacement was not cheap either.
I swapped the auto locks of my 95 f350 7.3 with the warn manual locks, so much better and finally having a nice strong four wheel drive
Save your self $400 per hub...
The silver coating that ford uses to color them swells. And makes it bind. I removed and completely dissambled the hub. Sanded the coating down to bare metal.. There better then new now. And don't ever stick again.
Keep em turned and they wont lock up. ESP warranty pal...🤷♂️
Replace both of mine last year on my 2011 KR F350. Had to replace both front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assemblies, so just went on and replaced these since this truck spent it's first 3 years in Canada! 😲😉 Thanks ARod!! Great Video as ALWAYS!!
🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
Where did you get the green glow FORD huhs at ?
Called editing software Fred🙉
Great video and reminder, now I've got to go check mine ('04 F250 SD 6.0l). One question, I noticed that there appeared to be some minor rust(?) buildup on the inside of the housing flange(?) once you removed the 4x4 hub, is that something that should be hit with a Scotchbrite pad to remove it and then clean the residue out before re-installing the hub?
Good question. Isnt going to affect operation and is gonna happen again any way
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Good to know I don't need to worry about that if I find it in mine, thanks!
Had to replace them on a 99 f250. Put on Warn. Have been turning hubs since then😊
What about adding some grease or anti seize on the area that corrodes a little
The area that's corroded you're not gonna get to
Yay it's friday...
Did have to replace the ones on my 16... wasn't a bad fix at all.
Good video bud
Alot of people rely on the vacuum hubs and depend on the manuals if something happens to the vacuum side. But then you have this problem. I use my manuals anytime I can they're alot less prone to failure.
Thanks for the video Arod! Haven’t turned mine in over a year 😬. Headin outside now 😂
great video..mine is not under warrenty so will removing rust fix my problem?
I spray garage door lubricant through the vacuum input on the hub. Keeps things nice and free. 🤷🏻♂️ Works for me.
Legit? In the vacuum port on the knuckle??
@@curtisrandell13 Yes I use Blaster silicone spray through the vacuum port every oil change. Then turn the hub a couple cycles.
I dunno bout that
Thank you for sharing this! I'll be sure to follow your advice about turning periodically. I also appreciate many of the comments below with tips and advice.
Great video! I always wondered what it looked like behind the hub lock. I’m headed out to check mine too.
i had the white dust come out of the hubs while turning em too!
The one thing I didn't check prior to signing the paperwork for that truck. Like PTT says turn those hubs!!
Any suggestions since one of mine broke and fell out and the other snapped off today, inside is all rusty. Will just lubing new ones we'll be okay?
Yes
What about taking steel wool to clean up the rust ?
Put warn hubs on my 01 excursion. All steel no melting when a hub went bad.
Do you clean the inside of the hub where the rust was if so with what
With some scotch brite pads
Thank you!
This was a great video!
Very helpful my hubs were trashed so I’m going to replace mine today 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Do you if there’s a reason why Ford did the dummy hubs on the 2024s . And is there any problem adding a functional one ? Thanks man !
Cuz they are stupid ASF! GO ahead and say u have a noise, there's a TSB to add that one back on.
Would have helped to clean the rust off of that inner part of the end of the axle and put some grease there too?
Literally has NO bearing on operation. Trust me people........dont worry about it.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks, I just wasn’t sure if that’s what was making them hard to turn
ABSOLUTELY NOT all internal to the hub...the hub does NOT turn in the bore. It is splined. The hubs turn internal to themselves to allow vacuum to work
Ok. Just a bit confused. Did you replace the lockout because it was rusty and hard to turn? Maybe I missed something but once you pull that hub out, you should be able to clean it up and the lube it before you put it back together. Or I'm I just hoping they work like the older lockouts?
Warranty pays to replace....
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod OH!! If the pickup is still under warranty. LOL Mine is a 15 with 100k+ miles.
😉😉😉😉
The NEW hub assemblies on the Dana 50 (1999-2004 SD's) and Dana 60 (2005+ SD's) front axle have throw away "Unit Bearings". The OLD hub assemblies on the Dana 60 front axle have serviceable "Timken Bearings".
I Take them off and throw em in an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green for an hour or so and they usually move again turn em a lot toss em in another half hour hit em with some compressed air, spray with wd 40 light coat of grease on internals and re-install.
Warranty pays to replace....
I used warn on my 1966 f250 they worked nice
Do you have to replace them or can just regrease them and clean the rust
These ud have 2 replace
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ok thank you
🤙🤙
Should the rust be sanded off? And some lube?
Can you leave them engaged all the time? But still do the maintenance on them.
Do u think your supposed to be rolling around with the axle shafts spinning & not in 4x4..............???
After replacing the second set on my 2012 6.7 I just purchased the warn hubs and hopefully all the problems will be done. I do regularly service the hubs but the Ford OEM is just not working.
Trying to replace and I can't get the new hub to sit fully inside. You mention a peg. Could you elaborate a little bit on what the peg looks like? Is it a pin-like thing to make sure the orientation is correct? Thank you!
Hold the housing and spin the end. You ll see
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thank you so much! I'm not sure I understand what "the end" means. DO you mean to hold the outer rim (with the screw holes) and hold the inner knob that rotates 90 degrees to change between locked and unlocked?
@josephskoler5206 Yes! Very good, you'll SEE 😎
Can the hubs be locked and driven some w/o engaging the 4wd transfer case to exercise the front axle and associated parts w/o damage?
I suppose so, yes
Mine will lock into 4x4 on their own. Even switched to non vacuum hubs and still did it.
I normally put wd-40 in and move it, but I have to replace mine, mine were stuck so much I couldn't turn em this time around, I'm hearing a popping sound when foot is on brake adjusting my steering to back into a parking space popping coming from driver's side, but it doesn't pop when driving and turning through an intersection though which is weird. It's just when I'm trying to adjust my steering wheel foot on brake to back in to parking spot, I might have to spray mine with wd-40 and move em or replace em, I have a disintegrating tail light housing that needs to be replaced as well.
A whole lot easier than when I had to replace the hubs on my fathers 1984 Toyota landcruser
Sadly I have neglected to service these as of yet.
Priceless info!! Thank you for helping us out!
My 2017 6.7 l power stroke are seized really tight as well
Hey PTT. I recently did my vacuum seals on my 2015 6.7. I seem to remember the kit coming with a gasket for between the auto hub and the hub. Did they get rid of these gaskets in the newer years?
Yea maybe in that kit, so when disassemble the hub components and axle shaft you'll have that. Everything here was all like u saw, one unit.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ah gotcha. Love your videos man. Love my 6.7 best truck I've ever driven. Do all my own work as well. Learned a lot from you. Keep it up!
Thanks Alex. I really appreciate that. 😉💯🔥 DTR would be proud R.I.P. buddy
So if the cover breaks off the basket, then how do you get the basket out?
Can anyone tell me if you can find a better locker hub for a 2019 f350 4x4 then the one ford has ive done broke 3 set and the last 2 time ive barely used them
Wouldn’t you want to take some emery cloth and try and clean up the rust and corrosion on the hub?
I suppose, sure
Stainless steel wire brush at high speed, transfers just enough stainless to minimize corrosion. A light film or grease and use them once in awhile.
"The....we don't talk about those...." 🤣🤣🤣🤣
When installing warn hubs do you need to block off the vacuum ports and if so how do you do it.
I’m also interested in this. I was just looking at the replacement Warn hubs the other day.
@@DanMar5858 ever find an answer to this?
I would say block off the vacuum ports and vacuum lines...or remove the lines. No need to allow dirt and micro sized particles to enter the hub via the port. Also, no longer need the solenoid that activates the vacuum. Call Warn, ask them to confirm.
@@15Jeep you are correct.
Do they still recommend to drive with them locked periodically to keep everything oily? I changed the ones on my old 7.3 to mile markers when I first got it, no one ever locked them and the thrust washer ate through, no vacuum and wasn’t working on auto.
Common issue.
Good stuff concise and succinct. Thank you
Arod! Reviving an oldie. My 18 has 4 on the floor which I ordered, with manual lockers. My 22 will have elec shift, lame... can I swap in manual lockers, and do something to the vacuum to trick the system? I use 2wd in 4lo often for trailer reversing etc, and am pissed the hubs will now be in “auto”
Hmmmmmm good question
I’m trying to replace mine right now and for the life of me I can’t get it to skid in past the o ring. I can feel the first set of splines line up and the second will not start. Any tips or tricks. I’ve been trying for an hour.
Try twisting the hub lock out
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i don’t know what was holding it up but I tried twisting it, jiggling it, spinning it, every combination imaginable and even spitting on it. Then all of a sudden after two hours it just slid in. All just to do ball joints. The old one fell apart when I disassembled it.
Yes! Thank you! This couldn’t have come out at a better time. 🙌👍
Finally SOMEONE appreciating my time
What type or kind or manufacture of grease should be used? THANKS!!
Wow thanks for that information. I love your video
Thanks pal
Is this the same procedure for bothe manual and auto lockout hubs?
Yea
I have a 2024 F350 that has No manual lockout hub on passenger front axle. This is how it came from factory. There is only a hub lockout on driver side. Do you know if it is possible to put a hub lockout back on ? The vacuum line is plumb to that wheel and capped off.
Those buzzards
Nice video. Question, I’ve heard some people especially in snow belt areas November until spring keeping them in the lock position so as to wear out the auto function sooner then it eventually will? Do you agree?
Keeping them locked in keeps the front axle shafts spinning. Why would someone want 2 drive around with them spinning if your not in 4x4.......
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod yeah not sure either just wanted your opinion. I’ve heard of people keeping them locked if there transitioning where they’re changing terrain, but back in auto once you’re back on pavement makes since.
Yea dont run em locked
Can we put atv seal ?
What
Good video I'm going to go spin mine back and forth. Thank You!
😉😉😉
Like always the best
Part number for the hub?
Was in video
I have a 2020 f250 with 8000 miles on it and the hubs don’t work in auto. Maybe they take time to engage?
Naw they shldnt. Still under warranty take it.
I changed mine on my old 6.4. The reason I changed them was while slowing down I would hear a clack, clack, clack sound and be I come to a stop a loud thump like metal breaking. I thought it was the tranny but I started with the cheaper parts first. I pulled the lockers and the splines were all chewed up on both sides. I had to clean metal shavings out the hole. What would cause this? Oh I got rid of that truck and got a 6.7 in 2019.
6.4 thats why
ARod is correct. The 6.4L powerstroke...park it in a bad metro area neighborhood and leave the keys in the ignition and the signed title on the seat. That said....The throw away non-serviceable "unit bearings" went out. the "unit bearings" are plastic encased...hence throw away. Much better to have the serviceable Timken bearings. Check Out DynaTrac and their Heavy Duty Free Spin Hub Kits (with either Warn Premium or DynaLoc),
What kind of grease did you use?
None...
How do you know if a hub is bad?
Gotta use a vacuuum pump & gauge to see if vacuum is being held.
Is this the same for the f250 hubs
Yea
Thank I have to do mine and was told there was a snap ring that had to be reminded ved
Removed
Yea the older trucks
I have a 17 f250
thanks so much for this video
👍
Well up here in Canada that hub sells for over 400 bucks wholesale at Ford , I have tried taking them apart to remove the dial and sand out the corrosion that has built up between the 2 , but I end up with a hand full of smashed butt holes.
I'm working on a 2015 f550
I replaced the driver side because it broke apart and now I think the passenger side is f up too. When turning I feel a small hop. left or right it hops. What do you think it is?
Good video ARod thanks for the nice tips
Do you think the Ford Performance hubs by Warn are worth the investment?
Didn't know of such..
are those hubs true lock/ free or do they function like the OEM?
Functiin the same
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ok perfect
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod so you can in gage 4wd in free?
Does anyone have the P/N for just that orange rubber O ring .TIA
Gosh I sure dont
What do you do when the cover (where the 3 screws hold it down) snaps in two leaving no access to the snap ring behind the locking hub?
You can't pop that hub lock out, out....?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod nope and tried locking (rotating) the hub snapped the ring off
@hillbj whaaaaaaaa
I have a Aisin locking hub from1969 that works amazing , nothing compare to the garbage they make nowadays 🤦
Even though covered under warranty wouldnt it be better to put on better hubs? The ford hubs are notorious for breaking, to much plastic.
I was driving in the snow today and got out and engaged my hubs. I got sort of a growling, clicking sound as I started driving. I'd imagine that is a tell that it isn't engaging the spline properly. Is that something that just happens? Or, is there a bigger problem going on? 2012 F250 120k miles
Thanks for sharing. Seams simple but the parts are expensive. Like #1.1K+
I'm pretty sure the c-clip ones were early 7.3 Super Duty, 99-01.
Yesum...
Actually 1999-2004 model years.
The three torx screw style is for 2005-current model year.
I've replaced them on my 1985 6.9, 1994 7.3, 1995 7.3, 2002 7.3, 2006 6.0, and 2017 6.7
I take it that this will work on F250 hubs, regardless of whether they are diesel or gas. correct?
Correct
Big question! My 14' f350 6.7 won't go into 4x4. Just says check 4x4. Hubs turn, all 4x4 fuses are good, seems to have vacuum for a/c etc. Doesn't even try to go into 4x4, the code instantly turns on when I flip the switch
Gotta follow the proper pin point test bub
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod where can I find that?
Inter webs...probably gonna cost ya tho
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod appreciate it! Love the channel!
Please share me so i can reach everyone