Saw a vid from England , where they did same type thing to a Land Rover fuel tank, they attached it to a cement mixer for the sloshing part!!! Cleaned it up!!!!
just got a '72 sears 3.5 for $40, cleaned up the points and got it to spark, was brazen and then tried to put some gas in and crank her, ofc gas was dripping out the carb, time for a full strip down and refurb, your vids will come in handy!
T-Mike, can you please make a video of your process for checking if a power head is locked up on an old (dirty aluminum) motor for the first time. Is there any type of lubricant that you coat the pistons with via the spark plug hole before turning the crankshaft for the first time in years/decades? Thanks.
Great video ! The process often leaves us with micro pinholes. Do you know of a way to properly seal or line the inside of the tank and/or ₩ould you make a video about it ? Salutations mon ami !
There is a product that is a tank sealer. It’s quite pricey. About $50 for a quart. After cleaning the tank as Mike shows you remove the gas shutoff valve and screw in a plug. Also remove the gas cap completely. Pour in some of the sealer to about 1/4” deep in the tank. Then slowly tilt the tank all around so the product comes in contact with the whole inside of the tank. Pour out the excess from the tank. (Don’t try to reuse what you dumped out. It gets thicker and tacky when exposed to air.) Let the tank dry overnight. You may need a second coat inside the tank. Do it the same way. You can examine the inside with a dental style mirror (from most auto parts stores). Remove the plug and with a small knife or drill open where the sealer covered the plug. Then reinstall the fuel shutoff (wrap Teflon tape on the threads or use a fuel proof sealer on them) When through, You’ll have a pint left over more than likely. Save it for the next project tank. Here’s one www.google.com/shopping/product/13713847092711352696?q=fuel+tank+sealer+kit&sa=X&sca_esv=577502368&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS763US764&hl=en-US&biw=375&bih=545&tbs=vw:l&sxsrf=AM9HkKnSsUCnLoq_ldx4R5_i9kpFw4QpUA:1698529471797&prds=eto:4485881477481306337_0,cdl:1,prmr:1,rsk:PC_3222265799019021409,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwjDtrmu25mCAxX0pokEHQIzDqwQgTYIhBA Here’s another www.google.com/shopping/product/10123221021580770700?q=fuel+tank+sealer+kit&sa=X&sca_esv=577502368&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS763US764&hl=en-US&biw=375&bih=545&tbs=vw:l&sxsrf=AM9HkKnSsUCnLoq_ldx4R5_i9kpFw4QpUA:1698529471797&prds=eto:15190699876033282507_0,cdl:1,prmr:1,rsk:PC_4929954685359787049,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwjDtrmu25mCAxX0pokEHQIzDqwQgTYI9g8
Thank you for your many videos!!! I have another legacy outboard motor. It’s a 1950 Evinrude 1.5 hp Sportsman. It was my grandpa’s who gave it to my older brother when he was a teenager. (He’s 74 now) He gave it to me a short while back and now I’m restoring it. It has not run since the 1980’s. Good compression and is complete. My questions are related to the fuel tank. My bro says he & Dad found it had bad fuel in the tank from Grandpa. Dad used Gumout carb cleaner on it. Now, As I examine it closely, it appears the upper section was glued to the lower section with Permatex 2B. Do these tanks separate top half from bottom half? Should I separate it, clean the joints of the sealant and then solder the top to bottom? Have you a recommendation for sealing the tank seams?
Hey Mike. Thanks for the video. If I was to do this with a 1940 Elto Ace same method with the rocks. I wouldnt have to worry about getting dents on the outside from shaking it would I. The motor was restored and is in mint condition thats why Im asking. Thank you
The best way to clean a tank that has been set up for quite some time with old gas !!!
Great video! Those tanks can be a bugger sometimes when they’ve been sitting for a long time. Sometimes they have corrosion holes in them
Saw a vid from England , where they did same type thing to a Land Rover fuel tank, they attached it to a cement mixer for the sloshing part!!! Cleaned it up!!!!
just got a '72 sears 3.5 for $40, cleaned up the points and got it to spark, was brazen and then tried to put some gas in and crank her, ofc gas was dripping out the carb, time for a full strip down and refurb, your vids will come in handy!
T-Mike, can you please make a video of your process for checking if a power head is locked up on an old (dirty aluminum) motor for the first time. Is there any type of lubricant that you coat the pistons with via the spark plug hole before turning the crankshaft for the first time in years/decades? Thanks.
Strong work Ti Mike
Great video, thx T-Mike! I was just about to start working on an old OMC 3 gallon tank with lots of residue in it. Now I know how to go about. 👍🏻
As always Mike
Excellent!!!
See my comment below about sealing a porous tank.
Great Video. Thanks Mike.
Great stuff T-Mike
Great video ! The process often leaves us with micro pinholes. Do you know of a way to properly seal or line the inside of the tank and/or ₩ould you make a video about it ? Salutations mon ami !
There is a product that is a tank sealer. It’s quite pricey. About $50 for a quart.
After cleaning the tank as Mike shows you remove the gas shutoff valve and screw in a plug. Also remove the gas cap completely.
Pour in some of the sealer to about 1/4” deep in the tank.
Then slowly tilt the tank all around so the product comes in contact with the whole inside of the tank.
Pour out the excess from the tank. (Don’t try to reuse what you dumped out. It gets thicker and tacky when exposed to air.)
Let the tank dry overnight.
You may need a second coat inside the tank. Do it the same way.
You can examine the inside with a dental style mirror (from most auto parts stores).
Remove the plug and with a small knife or drill open where the sealer covered the plug.
Then reinstall the fuel shutoff (wrap Teflon tape on the threads or use a fuel proof sealer on them)
When through, You’ll have a pint left over more than likely. Save it for the next project tank.
Here’s one
www.google.com/shopping/product/13713847092711352696?q=fuel+tank+sealer+kit&sa=X&sca_esv=577502368&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS763US764&hl=en-US&biw=375&bih=545&tbs=vw:l&sxsrf=AM9HkKnSsUCnLoq_ldx4R5_i9kpFw4QpUA:1698529471797&prds=eto:4485881477481306337_0,cdl:1,prmr:1,rsk:PC_3222265799019021409,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwjDtrmu25mCAxX0pokEHQIzDqwQgTYIhBA
Here’s another
www.google.com/shopping/product/10123221021580770700?q=fuel+tank+sealer+kit&sa=X&sca_esv=577502368&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS763US764&hl=en-US&biw=375&bih=545&tbs=vw:l&sxsrf=AM9HkKnSsUCnLoq_ldx4R5_i9kpFw4QpUA:1698529471797&prds=eto:15190699876033282507_0,cdl:1,prmr:1,rsk:PC_4929954685359787049,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwjDtrmu25mCAxX0pokEHQIzDqwQgTYI9g8
Thank you for your many videos!!!
I have another legacy outboard motor. It’s a 1950 Evinrude 1.5 hp Sportsman. It was my grandpa’s who gave it to my older brother when he was a teenager. (He’s 74 now) He gave it to me a short while back and now I’m restoring it. It has not run since the 1980’s. Good compression and is complete.
My questions are related to the fuel tank. My bro says he & Dad found it had bad fuel in the tank from Grandpa.
Dad used Gumout carb cleaner on it.
Now, As I examine it closely, it appears the upper section was glued to the lower section with Permatex 2B.
Do these tanks separate top half from bottom half?
Should I separate it, clean the joints of the sealant and then solder the top to bottom?
Have you a recommendation for sealing the tank seams?
Wow!
Smaller gravel with a paint vibrating machine would speed things up I would imagine
An old orbital sander works good.
Hey Mike. Thanks for the video. If I was to do this with a 1940 Elto Ace same method with the rocks. I wouldnt have to worry about getting dents on the outside from shaking it would I. The motor was restored and is in mint condition thats why Im asking. Thank you
Used very small rocks - should be ok