Yeah I wouldn't see why not but if you have a reason to be putting 1300s on I would upgrade to an actual tgv deleted part, something with a machined piece
Dumb question but running the tgv wihtout the rod, same one you pulled out, wont trip the check engine light and send the car into limp mode as long as both ends are reattached and plugged in right??
Sorry man just saw this, but when taking everything out you will have to remove the check engine lights through a tuner and that will not throw the car into limp mode
I've removed my intake 3-4 times. Suspect I've always had an intake manifold leak and always hoped new gaskest would work. Now I'm getting ready to do the again but want to ensure the gaskets are sealing as they should....Q: can I use a bit of Permatex on the gaskets (both the head to TGV and TGV to intake gaskets), if so do I put on BOTH sides of the gasket (seems like this is the only way that makes sense)? I know that the OEM gaskets are supposed to go on dry...BUT I don't want to have to do this again . Some people say you can put RTV on the gaskets, others say NO...:). Please help!
I have used rtv on most things I put back onto the car just to make sure nothing leaks just make sure you give yourself a good 36 hours or so to make sure it cures
Excellent advice, thanks. 36 hours to cure- this was my concern as I needed my car functional in 2 days and the work I needed to do on it was maybe a day (remove Intake Manifold - its a big job on a subie!) and curing time was going to be a problem. So I put back everything I started late last night - just in case my 'fixes' worked and prevent me from having to re-do my intake....100% success! Full boost, no boost leak, no bucking at 4000 rpm. I suspected one of my gaskets under my TMIC (Y-pipe) was leaking as I noticed some oil residue marks on one side but not the other (so tightened that up; new gasket arrived today :)). Also my MAF sensor was dirty (glob of something on it!). So between the two it solved my problem. Was thinking it was more involved fix (had CEL P0171 - Lean condition Bank 1). A subie mechanic said "because it is Bank 1 it cannot be your MAF or a boost leak..it must be an intake manifold vacuum leak". Obviously he's wrong :). Thanks again.
Since this video is 6 years old; I wonder if COBB disabled the ability to delete anything emissions related from Access Tuner. I purchased my access port last year and I don't think the Access Tuner program will let me do this, in 2023
I didn't just because there won't be any leaks from there, the only benefit I can think of now would be to reduce turbulence but it might not matter that much
So there is a butterfly plate in there that is shut upon start up then opens a couple seconds after running. It is exactly like a choke. So since cars really don't need that choke it is best to get rids of it to extremely improve air flow
Deep6Rally any way to do that without getting a tune? What’s the worse that could happen if I drove with the codes for a little bit. Ty for the reply man
I don't believe so because the computer will think there is a problem with them so it will throw the car into limp mode if I remember correctly, but take a look online to see if you don't find anything let me know.
I don't believe so because the computer will think there is a problem with them so it will throw the car into limp mode if I remember correctly, but take a look online to see if you don't find anything let me know.
I know I'm late but is there anyway you can send the link to the program because it's not on there anymore and I did the delete but don't have the program
+cesar rojas the reason I tapped it and put a bolt with JB weld is because of the pressure within the tgv. If you just put JB weld in it there is a chance that it will just pop out
Just watched another video where the guy just removed the butterfly valves and that was that for a higher HP subaru. Never mentioned anything about porting out anything. Thoughts?
Thanks for responding! They're just starting to act up so I have a little time. I've been looking over a lot of videos and I cant seem to find a answer to my question. After removing the butterfly valves or pulling the whole thing and porting it do you have to have the car tuned again or just reset the ECU and let the accessport and ECU relearn? Im gonna be getting by rebuilt turbo back soon and I dont want to have to pay for a tune if I dont have to. Especially with how much they cost out by me -_-
squishypitbull You will have to get it tuned for sure, there is alot More air flow and you have to get ride of the codes for the butterfly valves. So I would suggest and save the money and get tgvs, fuel injectors and maybe a turbo inlet all at the same time to make it worth the money for a tune
I can use the ap tuner to get rid of the codes. Not gonna have money for any of that anytime soon (kid on the way) so I was hoping i'd just be able to reset the ECU ahhh well.
It also gets rid of the sticky tgv and associated CELs and rough running and severe loss of power when they stick closed - and they will stick closed eventually. My 05 STI started acting up at around 85,000 miles. I also have reason to believe that not only does at least one stick closed occasionally, at least one may not be opening up fully. The sole purpose of these is to create turbulence in the intake stream when the engine is idling while cold - they stay open and don't do anything at all other times, and Subaru only had to add them to meet US emissions standards.
Deadass the only video I've found that shows how to take everything off lmao
Intake wise, wanted to see a video of it before I started to take mine off
For those who do not have a tuner u can leave the bearings, rod and sensor and there u go no cel
was wondering if that would work thank you
Just found your channel from Subaru Army. Nice channel man! Just subscribed :D
+WRXer Thank you and I am glad you enjoyed.
“Carefully hammer that out” starts banging on it 😂
Careful is a very broad term lol
Very good channel..I have a forester xt..sleeper ...I'm doing d deleats...
C ROD Thank you, let me know how it goes for you.
Hello Friend! After removing tgv, do I need to flash ecu?
No engine errors?
Good old diy aye, cheers for the video, gives me insight . Need to find specs on the flow rates of each type of manifold for these oddball ones
Could you install after market injectos on this with rails? Let's say 1300cc injectors with an iag rail
Yeah I wouldn't see why not but if you have a reason to be putting 1300s on I would upgrade to an actual tgv deleted part, something with a machined piece
Dumb question but running the tgv wihtout the rod, same one you pulled out, wont trip the check engine light and send the car into limp mode as long as both ends are reattached and plugged in right??
Sorry man just saw this, but when taking everything out you will have to remove the check engine lights through a tuner and that will not throw the car into limp mode
I've removed my intake 3-4 times. Suspect I've always had an intake manifold leak and always hoped new gaskest would work. Now I'm getting ready to do the again but want to ensure the gaskets are sealing as they should....Q: can I use a bit of Permatex on the gaskets (both the head to TGV and TGV to intake gaskets), if so do I put on BOTH sides of the gasket (seems like this is the only way that makes sense)? I know that the OEM gaskets are supposed to go on dry...BUT I don't want to have to do this again . Some people say you can put RTV on the gaskets, others say NO...:). Please help!
I have used rtv on most things I put back onto the car just to make sure nothing leaks just make sure you give yourself a good 36 hours or so to make sure it cures
Excellent advice, thanks. 36 hours to cure- this was my concern as I needed my car functional in 2 days and the work I needed to do on it was maybe a day (remove Intake Manifold - its a big job on a subie!) and curing time was going to be a problem. So I put back everything I started late last night - just in case my 'fixes' worked and prevent me from having to re-do my intake....100% success! Full boost, no boost leak, no bucking at 4000 rpm. I suspected one of my gaskets under my TMIC (Y-pipe) was leaking as I noticed some oil residue marks on one side but not the other (so tightened that up; new gasket arrived today :)). Also my MAF sensor was dirty (glob of something on it!). So between the two it solved my problem. Was thinking it was more involved fix (had CEL P0171 - Lean condition Bank 1). A subie mechanic said "because it is Bank 1 it cannot be your MAF or a boost leak..it must be an intake manifold vacuum leak". Obviously he's wrong :). Thanks again.
Since this video is 6 years old; I wonder if COBB disabled the ability to delete anything emissions related from Access Tuner.
I purchased my access port last year and I don't think the Access Tuner program will let me do this, in 2023
So I just completed my tgv's and can't seem to find accesstuner race version. Could you load a map for me if I send you my AP?
So you need to find a tuner in your area or get an etune. I am not a tuner. Only they will be able to build a map for what mods you have.
Quick question... the two internal holes(in the middle) of the tgv just go with some jb weld aswell or its not necesary to put nothing in there?
I didn't just because there won't be any leaks from there, the only benefit I can think of now would be to reduce turbulence but it might not matter that much
@@Deep6Rally thanks for replaying.
So in your opinion it wouldn’t do no harm if its left with or without it?
What size bold and tap did you use ?
@@Deep6Rally what size bolt and tap did you use
@@blakerobison9370 1/8 npt tap then a couple bungs worked for me with no drilling required
Hi. Just a question.what is the benefit of a the delete? Why do it. Thanks. I have a 2011 wrx
So there is a butterfly plate in there that is shut upon start up then opens a couple seconds after running. It is exactly like a choke. So since cars really don't need that choke it is best to get rids of it to extremely improve air flow
So the connectors on the tgv harness.. did you just leave unplugged??
I did, just make sure you delete the codes on the ecu
Deep6Rally any way to do that without getting a tune? What’s the worse that could happen if I drove with the codes for a little bit. Ty for the reply man
I don't believe so because the computer will think there is a problem with them so it will throw the car into limp mode if I remember correctly, but take a look online to see if you don't find anything let me know.
Deep6Rally I’m swapping over to a 2.5 manifold. On my 2004 wrx. Needless to say I need to make adjustments
I don't believe so because the computer will think there is a problem with them so it will throw the car into limp mode if I remember correctly, but take a look online to see if you don't find anything let me know.
I know I'm late but is there anyway you can send the link to the program because it's not on there anymore and I did the delete but don't have the program
Thinking about doing this to my car. Do I have to tap the hole for the bolt or can I just fill it with jb weld?
+cesar rojas the reason I tapped it and put a bolt with JB weld is because of the pressure within the tgv. If you just put JB weld in it there is a chance that it will just pop out
OK that makes sense. Thanks for the video and the help.
Do you happen to have any tgvs for a wrx 2003 I’m in need of two
What do you do with the electrical connections to the TGV? Just discard?
Buy a Cobb flex fuel kit and make 400whp with full bolt-on's and about $1800 in the fuel system lines/injectors/pump.
Im getting the deleted. Plus putting a down pipe. Do you think my turbo and blow valve will sound loud?
Jesus Madriz You will definitely be getting more air flow through the motor so yes you should be able to hear it, just be sure you get the car tuned
Nice job what was the tuning programs you used for the Subaru?
sicklotus I have an access port for it but I make sure to get a protune also
Just watched another video where the guy just removed the butterfly valves and that was that for a higher HP subaru.
Never mentioned anything about porting out anything.
Thoughts?
squishypitbull Yea you definitely don't have to. Any bit removed would improve air flow but if you have them out, might as well port them
Thanks for responding! They're just starting to act up so I have a little time. I've been looking over a lot of videos and I cant seem to find a answer to my question.
After removing the butterfly valves or pulling the whole thing and porting it do you have to have the car tuned again or just reset the ECU and let the accessport and ECU relearn?
Im gonna be getting by rebuilt turbo back soon and I dont want to have to pay for a tune if I dont have to. Especially with how much they cost out by me -_-
squishypitbull You will have to get it tuned for sure, there is alot More air flow and you have to get ride of the codes for the butterfly valves. So I would suggest and save the money and get tgvs, fuel injectors and maybe a turbo inlet all at the same time to make it worth the money for a tune
I can use the ap tuner to get rid of the codes. Not gonna have money for any of that anytime soon (kid on the way) so I was hoping i'd just be able to reset the ECU ahhh well.
squishypitbull No I meant actually deleting the codes from the ecu, you can't do that with the AP. Unless you have the race tuner program
Did your tuner for your e-tune charge you for the tgv check engine deletes?
I got a regular Dyno tune and he went through and deleted them
Which software/program do I need to connect computer to ECU?
mitmaks the Cobb access port is a good thing to have and it will give you many options for things that you can do as far as tuning and launch control
Deep6Rally so you can delete these code with the Cobb accessport with it hooked up to a computer?
What exactly does this process do ?? Does it add horse power ?? Can someone please explain a little what benefits will a subaru have after this mod
+Fonick 02 it frees up the airflow going to the engine. So in turn after more fuel and a tune it will add more power.
It also gets rid of the sticky tgv and associated CELs and rough running and severe loss of power when they stick closed - and they will stick closed eventually. My 05 STI started acting up at around 85,000 miles. I also have reason to believe that not only does at least one stick closed occasionally, at least one may not be opening up fully.
The sole purpose of these is to create turbulence in the intake stream when the engine is idling while cold - they stay open and don't do anything at all other times, and Subaru only had to add them to meet US emissions standards.
Mind to ask error code P2016 TGV Bank 1 is which side?
I am not sure actually, you can just look that code up and hopefully it will give you a side
@@Deep6Rally should be driver side, im RHD...
Did you able to pass emissions test just by doing that?
Luckily I don't have to go through emissions
Deep6Rally how come?
I have the plastic one 😭
Thanks.
Inside of those looks like ass, should have sent them off to get polished, or polished yourself.
Yeah but they still work, and I'm happy with them
Waste of time