Dial-in, Calibrate, & Upgrade your ANET A8 3D Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- How to dial-in the settings, nozzle and bed temperature, and upgrades to my ANET A8.
Z Axis Fine Tuner Remix
www.thingiverse.com/thing:257...
Extruder Filament Guide
www.thingiverse.com/thing:257...
Extra Short Hesine M505 Cooling Nozzle
www.thingiverse.com/thing:257...
Anet A8 Bed Leveling Knob
www.thingiverse.com/thing:239...
Y Axis Pulley Insert
www.thingiverse.com/thing:213...
X Axis Pulley Insert
www.thingiverse.com/thing:225... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[007] Anet A8 3D Printer - Review, Upgrades and Experiments](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/37MsqteL3gk/mqdefault.jpg)
![[007] Anet A8 3D Printer - Review, Upgrades and Experiments](/img/tr.png)
THANK YOU! I've had my A8 for approx. a week now and have printed several upgrades for the frame stability and bed lvl procedure but the Fil guide for the Ext. looks like I need that as well as the pulley inserts! thank you again for taking the time to make and upload this awesome video!
OH ALSO the fine tuner for the Z EndStop! I really NEED that!
That shorter part cooling nozzle will be very helpful for me, I actually broke the shaft from over tightening, now it is half as long, but the teflon insert is now able to be closer to the extruder gear and bearing.
Thank you for taking time to do this video. I especially appreciate it because I am considering purchasing am A8, and I think your video pushed me over the line to get one. Thanks for such a well done video.
Ron Jones get one, it's really good. Just make sure you put it together on a total flat leveled surface and 1st thing get a autolevel from anet and put it all the way up, put skynet3D firmware on it (anet a8+anet autolevel version). Usb cable to PC. Install cura latest version and add A8. Put the code for autoleveling in cura. Turn screws on heatbed tight so theres no gap between springs. Set Z-axis offset to around -1.8 , print this cube for measurement and set temperature and flowrate to perfect values (PLA around 190 degrees C, flowrate 109, bed 55 C) and then print this fanduct. Put it on and set printer code to calibrate the heatingsystem. The rest of mods is unnecesary.
I'd highly recommend some belt tensioners, or the print quality will noticeably deteriorate over the first 70 to 100 hours of printing time and only worsen thereafter. Search thingiverse for some mods, there are plenty to choose from. The bearing covers also do help dramatically with print quality.
Just wanted to say thanks, I really enjoyed your information, very helpful to a new guy, Thanks Kevin H
Great video and as advertised in headline
Great instructions - thank you - Al
Thanks for the great tips
Thanks for the tips it's very helpful. Is it possible to have the heat calibration tower file please?
Awesome video. Thank you for this. This should help me to significantly improve the quality of my prints. I really like the z-axis fine tuner. I'm wondering how the Bed Leveling Knobs work. I back off the wingnuts then use a screwdriver to adjust the screws to level the bed, then I secure the wingnuts against the bottom of the beds lower rails to prevent the screws from turning. Are the Bed Leveling Knobs operated in this same way?
Awesome video thank you
My left ear enjoyed this video ;)
The mic fucked up and didn't record in stereo
Dont have an anet but this was still a fun video to watch. Lots of good pointers in this video but a lot of things could be abridged. For example, in order to properly calibrate the "flow" you should calibrate esteps first and then average the wall thicknesses of the cube. Divide the desired extrusion width by the average wall thickness for the new flow %.
what a great help thank you john uk
not all hairsprays will work, only the ones that contain vinyl acetate will work.
Well done thanks
I can't tell if you're trying to do an AvE impression, or if you're just another crazy canuck? Either way nice vidja.
I would argue that this doesn't tell you HOW to dial in settings as much as it shows you what to look for. Kudos for what is here. I just need to learn more, i suppose.
Came across this. BrillAnt tips. I’m deaf so with your video and subtitles I could follow. The heat tower is a great tip. Does the file change the temps too or do I adjust each block temp manually ?.
Using Cura as my slicer software I had to go into the modify GCode option and decrease the temp every 10 mm.
Excellent video. Impressive upgrades. I don't see the "Z fine tuning fine and adjust" that you showed mounted on the side. Where can we get one or the files to print one, PLEASE?
It's in the video description
Hey what kind of filament brand are you using looks pretty good quality
I bought a few rolls from ebay for $16 each. It doesn't even have a name brand on the box. But it still prints well.
At least give us the link
Great tips, thanks. Question: I have the same printer as in this video, but I have z sensor, but it is offset from the nozzle on the x,y, How do I compensate for that? because when I do autolevel, the sensor goes of the table. Thanks
You set the offset in the Configuration.h and reflash the firmware.
Nice video.You should consider print X and Y belt tensioners.Belt comming lose pretty quick.I have installed them and print quality is rise significantly :-)
I installed X & Y tensioners after this video was made.
The man sounds very much luke the "Bird-man" in Rick and Morty.
Hi nice printer, where can i download the gear (red) you have on Y-axis for belt?
Links are in the description below the video.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2138421
I recommend buying metal GT2 16T toothed pulley for your X & Y axis.
The Glass your looking for, They make them up to 400mm x 400mm, cheap (Borosilicate Glass Plate) on ebay
4:27 "the stuff your moms pyrex balls are made out of" LOL! I know I misheard but thats funny AF
Nice video... btw.. can u give me suggestions which one cheap 3d printer should i buy... Anet A8 or Tevo Tarantula ????
Creality Ender is around the same price as an ANET A8 but has an aluminium frame. CR-10 is also another good printer for around $200.
about the price,in my country the price range is to high between A8 then CR 10... only the tevo and A8 is same price... haha...btw thank you for the suggestion sir...
Nice vid! Do you have an .STL to that toothed pulley?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2081443
Thank you so much!
Are you a Canadian hand model?
Well done and informative video.
Uh no, I don't chooch like that.
Would you say a ANET A8 3D Printer is a suitable printer to start off with? as my first printer and I've got no expriance at all with printing anything in 3D.
The ANET A8 is the cheapest printer you might find. If you are not technically inclined then it may not be for you. If you can work through the kinks and problems then it's a great printer. I would suggest skipping the acrylic frame and going straight to a metal frame for the ANET A8.
I agree on the metal frame. My next major upgrade will be a frame replacement.
spray hair spray on the glass. use a warm damp cloth, wipe your bed, spray again, get better results
So far i havent seen anyone set up a "dial indicator" on the printhead for leveling.
Is there some reason for that?
It seems to me using a dial indicator would be more accurate than by "feel",no?
If you get your 4 corners leveled by the paper method or a feeler gauge then you only have to adjust one dial to tune the Z offset, instead of all 4 bed screws.
I level the gantry, then level the bed in 5 locations. Then run the auto target stl file to check adhesion of my pei sheet. Once everything is working i load my project and rock it out
Back then there was not a feature to level the gantry. I have since upgraded to Klipper and that is a feature in the Klipper software.
You have a very nice setup. Do you have a link to the bed levelling thumbscrews?
Anet A8 Bed Leveling Knobwww.thingiverse.com/thing:2395388
Mount the printer on a plyboard. That will stabilize the machine. Then your settings (mechanical) will not change unless you do work on the machine. Been there...
Quick question you might know...I just got my printer (half way thru my first print right now which is the temp tower)...the numbers are missing half of them at parts or lines thru it.. is that temperature cause its too hot (but I see yours showed up good at the high Temps)...any idea why they're missing?
Make sure your filament diameter is setup correctly in your firmware and slicer software. Also ensure the nozzle diameter is correct. Also try increasing the flow % in your slicer until the print does not have any gaps or spaces in the layers.
Does the print get better as the temperature decreases? Hard to tell without looking at the print.
Hello !
I have received anet a8 3d printer. Z and y axis motor fixed plate are missing. Anybody please share the plates dimensions so i can manufacture it.
Looking for ur guys support.
I've found that hairspray doesn't really do much, just have the first layer slightly closer and it will stick perfectly, and if they stick too much to the glass bed you can just cool it off either in the refrigerator or under running water.
As for the Z-level adjuster and the pulley covers, those I must get :D
Another upgrade I have are belt tensioners, for the Y-axis I just printed two new "holders" for the pulley with a room for a screw so I could tighten the belt by simply moving the holders. For the X axis I went for a belt holder on the back of the print head with another screw using the same kind of system.
I've found hair spray on glass works great for ABS
Glue stick on glass works great for PLA.
You can buy the metal GT2 16 tooth pulley which have ball bearings for a few dollars on ebay or aliexpress.
Oh, that's probably why I never have had to use hairspray, only been printing in PLA :P
Hello, I just picked up a one year old a8 from a guy who had it already nicely dialed in and he threw in some spools of pla, abs and extra parts. The unit still has the 12v supply. Do I absolutely want to upgrade to what specific size power supply?
The power supply that came with the A8 should work. You could use a computer power supply.
@@MrDabrudda Thanks for the quick response. I'm now connected via Octoprint. Visited your vid here for the calibration. Wish me luck and I'm certain I'll be in touch again. Many thanks!
heated bed wire strain relief bracket , on thingiverse
Yes
Do you have the STL of the peaces to X axis??
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2250616
IS this a shipmates channel?
Hi friend, I have a problem with my A8 printer and when I put it to heat the coooler it lowers the rotation and it turns off what could be happening to it ???
You might check the voltage on the power supply with a volt meter and see if it is at 12V when the heaters and fans are running. There is an adjustable pot on the side of the power supply to raise or lower the voltage to 12v.
glue a metal washer on your filament guide to prevent your guide from wearing out
I upgraded to an E3D hot end
Be nice if you told us WHY the temp you recommend is correct .....
what kind of filament did you use
I bought some cheap PLA filament from ebay. It was like $13 a roll which does not even have a brand name. But it printed pretty good for cheap stuff.
Did you do the Sunscreen song ?
Uh no, don't know what you mean.
@@MrDabrudda th-cam.com/video/sTJ7AzBIJoI/w-d-xo.html
can I print this using cura 14.07? If so how?
Do you mean the heat calibration tower? Yes, you can use a plugin called TweakAtZ or you could upgrade to the latest Cura 3.2 (which works great) and edit the GCode to reduce the temp every centimeter.
www.thingiverse.com/groups/thingiverse/forums/general/topic:11976
lol, how can you print good parts if you need to dial in the printer?
You can't print good parts if your printer is not dialed in. Setting up a 3D printer before you even start printing is essential or the print won't stick or will be under/over extruded.
My printed holes Are smaller than expected any idea how to solve this problem??
Calibrate your X, Y, Z, axis and Extruder steps per mm so it prints the exact size. Print out a 20x20x20 test cube and measure the sides and adjust the setting in the Marlin firmware.
This is my steps per mm on my printer after printing out the 20x20x20 cube, doing the math and adjusting the steps per mm in the firmware "Configuration.h" file.
define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 101.11, 99.75, 403.22, 89.55 }
xyz Calibration Cube
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
How to calibrate your extruder:
th-cam.com/video/X3A9Ir2SreI/w-d-xo.html
not sure if anyone else is having this problem, but the audio is only comgin thru my left speaker in this video
Only comes out on my left speaker too. Not sure why it encoded like that.
all good, it is still a great video. i come back to it every so often to keep my A6 in check. can i ask how you printed the temperature tower? ive been keen to fine tune my ink's temp but not sure how to edit the gcode to do this.
Where i can download test files?
Heat Calibration Towerwww.thingiverse.com/thing:1478258
MrDabrudda thx mate
I heat up my room where the printer is, and I get good prints
My printer sits in an enclosure
Speed at 1.25x. You're welcome
Good vid but learn to use the tips of the calipers 😂
Why? Are the tips of the calipers the only accurate surface? But of course you are a mechanic engineer with 30 years of experience...right?
Sour grapes Dawesomegaming!
Wait wait wait.....you dont even start with telling us where to download it, what program to open with, what program to convert the file so the printer can even see the file pn the usb? Ok you already lost us from the start. GJ.
Wait wait wait...did you look in the description of the video? Nope.
And I assume the viewers of this video and operators of a 3D printer are technical enough to know how to setup, slice, and print a 3D model.
How to download...click the link on the model you want to download. ie. See the video description for the links
Open the STL file in Cura or other slicer of your choice and convert the STL to gcode. Upload the gcode to your 3D printer either via USB or OctoPrint and print. Tweak your slicer settings so you get a good print (temp, retraction, jerk, print speed, acceleration, calibrate X, Y, Z and E steps). Took me several months of printing and re-printing to tweak the Cura and Marlin firmware settings. Then I bought Simplify3D...rinse and repeat until you get the perfect settings for your printer.
If you don't want to print via a USB cable I highly recommend setting up OctoPrint on a Raspberry PI 3 so you don't have to keep your computer on for 20 hours straight to finish a print.
Anything else I missed?