"There's a lot of dirt outside, in fact, that's where they keep all that dirt. Outside." My children would like to disagree. Awesome vid as always, looking forward to the pure pigment one as well.
Alright, we may not keep ALL of it outside... but for the most part I think we try to keep to all that we can of it out there. Some of us are just less successful about doing that at times.
Making my own Typhus Corrosion? You are offically my Hero , Vince! I go through a lot of Typhus Corrosion painting my beloved Death Guard and I am so tired of pots drying out. I have loads of pigments made by Huge Miniatures here in Ohio and you just saved me a lot of headache. Thank you so much for all of the free ideas. :) You are a true asset to our little hobby community.
6:04 another great thing for vehicles is the Tamiya clear paints. I use the orange one for rusting and also for leakage (lubricant, oil or whatever) for example, you could apply it here where you have the rivets, so it's like water leaking out. It works quite well as new rust/still wet etc. I got it initially for leakage, but it certainly works for rusted areas as well, where you want to show some water still coming out of the machine parts.
One thing I also like to do is dye my texture paints like vallejo sand with pigments. Not only does that make it really easy to just have a different colored base it more often than not makes for better rust texture than my regular rust paints.
Nice Video. Little suggestion if you want to save some money: buy chalk pastels and crush them up to a fine powder. They work about as well as the pre made pigments, but a box of cheap pastels costs about 5-10 bucks, you get loads of colour(even some brighter ones for maybe magic effects?). Also great for experiments.
Thanks for the informative video, Vince! I recently picked up some pigments from Vallejo and I've just been nervous to use them. That skin trick is insane! Good all around guide for using these and making them a more approachable tool.
Lol only saw the top of this comment and hoped it finished; _"... I recently picked up some pigments from Vallejo and I've just been staring at them."_
I came to you again for some advice on pigments for aging stuff and you blew my mind with those soft shadows trick!... You've all the tricks mate, this videos are always gold!👏👏
Thank you so much. I started the journey of miniature painting 3 month ago and was able to achieve amazing results by watching your videos and applying the technique.
I thought I would just learn about painting miniatures from Vince, but here I am getting tips that really bolster my 2D painting as well! Especially in videos like this, his color-series, and OST tips. Thanks Vince!! You're the best!!!!
Loving the look of the pigment work! I would definitely suggest being careful with the artist pigments. These are meant to be mixed with oil and turned into paints so in their powder form some are very dangerous! Check the MSDS, wear protective equipment, and maybe seal the toxic powders like cadmiums, cobalts, etc. if you go with the vibrant colors.
Very nice video! My tip: mix dry pigment with linseed oil to make your own oil paint. For most colors it would be easier to buy the paint, but you can make for example fluorescent oil paint or simply the paint you don’t already have but you need it, and you have the pigment.
Good tips as usual. As to the bonus one, you can also use bicarbonate of soda for much the same effect if you don't have pigments around. As it's white, it tends to just take the colour of whatever paint you use, making for some interesting possibilities. It's very good for sand bases and dirt textures on minis.
Thank you very much! This was a super useful and informative video. All these tips and tricks that you have learned over the years and share with us helps us all get batter. So thanks!
Really great video showed me some great techniques i will try out. I RL entropy stuff with plenty of rust and corrosion, find pigments mixed with tile grout or talc and a bit water makes a great rough corroser surface effect
Amazing stuff Vince! I have recently got back into the hobby and you have been an invaluable help in upping my painting and craft skills. Some twenty odd years ago, I worked in a tourist attraction in the UK that was a series of caves where they used to mine iron ore. They gave me some raw red ochre pigment that I rediscovered in my art draw recently. It's an amazing asset for me as I'm building a rockgut troggoth army who, well, live in caves so with your tips my bases are looking like the caves I once worked in (thankfully there were no troggoths down there). Can't wait to try it out on the minis themselves! Trying to make the rocks look slippery and green led me to another use of pigment. Green Stuff World's 'wild moss' is great for green mould/algae stains on rocks when fixed with a wash or Isopropyl alcohol as you showed in your other vids. Mixed with their 'mud medium' and worked on a bit it can make great algae for rock pools and slippery rocks too. I haven't tried it for actual moss effects yet, but will experiment with that soon.
"In fact, that's where they keep all the dirt, outside". Learning something new everyday :D Ontopic: Nice video. I never tried pigments because I was under the impression these were only used to make things look dirty. Will check them for the bases now, thnx.
That what they are mostly used for. You can also achieve some finer effects like OSL with them if you get some brighter coloured ones (or maybe a magic effect on the base). You have to experiment with them a little bit, like every new paint, they are just a tool and it falls back to you what you can achieve with them.
Great video, I am in the process of painting my Deagostini Millennium Falcon and there are plenty of rust marks and damage areas for pigment to apply. Now I have to buy some, thanks.
excellent video I like making a pigment wash, put it where you need, let it dry and then come back in with an old brush and rough it up. Found it was good if you want to keep the top layer of colour a little more clearer, or having the pigment colour stronger in the recesses. Like the adding water after for the rust though!
6:25 on metals yes, on fragile paintjobs like airbrushed layers I found dat IPA (even lower percentages) tend to damage the paintjob in one way or another (even after layers of varnish). White spirits is a good alternative that is safe to use. Bonus is that I found that white spirit preserves the pigment (both the color and where and how you placed the pigment) way better than IPA/medium/varnish/paint/water etc. Slight downside is fixes the pigment less than the rest of the options; still more than not fixing it at all though.
Have been experimenting with "hobby" pigments more lately and really loving them. Besides the obvious reasons, I think I figured out why. The pigment is so finely grained that my brain excepts it as in scale.
Making a wash with isopropanol and pigment is a great way to weather vehicles, as it means you can get into details better than you can with it in powder form. I mean I guess you can still get in there with the powder, but it gets on everything. With the wash you can be way more controlled in your application.
Searching for this is exactly what brought me to this video -- was wondering if I could mix powder pigment with alcohol to make my own "streaking grime"
This is amazing! I LOVE knights and I always end up painting them as battleworn as best I can, but achieving this purely with paint and drybrush (I'm still very new to painting) always looks cool enough from a distance, but I always felt like something was sorely missing. I'm deffo gonna get hold of some pigments! The tip about skin was brilliant, my wife is about to paint a giant and I have to show her this ASAP
These are great techniques. I never thought to use IPA or water to gather the pigment to make rust more realistic, that's definitely something I have to try. It's worth noting that Jeremy from Black Magic Craft has a good video on how to make very cheap pigment powder by using chalk. I'd check that out if you don't want to overpay, or if you want a specific color.
As a thought I wonder if they would work with a loaded brush. I'm imagining that you could get some pigment on the brush and then work a bit of paint into the brush and stipple/dry brush the model. My guess is that the colour will mix with the pigment in the brush and get progressively darker
@@VinceVenturella Wet brush + pigment = chunky mud. I did it on a recent figure. Got my sacrificial brush wet/blotted, dipped tip in the pigment and gave it a shake, then applied to the figure. Result was CHUNKY mud bits. Figure posed running through a forest, so mud was needed. I think you'd need a lot of specialized control and practice to not just end up with smeary slop. Sometimes you want smeary slop though.
Regarding the chunky paint. I have found that layering multiple rust tones can mush the pigment together and reduces the texture. To avoid this, you can mix a sprinkle of sand in with the first pigment layer. I also like to fix my pigment in place with some brown or black oil washes to darken recesses and create tonal variation. I also like to sprinkle pigment with a shaker or by placing some in the container lid and tapping it onto the model. Its messy and only suitable for larger models, but it gives a different look compared to if it was painted on with a brush.
just what I was needing. I have been getting into pigments recently, but mainly just buying them, Lol (not used them yet on my minis) I mostly got them for bases, and for vehicles though. I have used them when mixed with isopropanol for getting into details, but I've not used them in their powder form yet. I just assumed they'd fall off without some kind of fixer. PS: I have also used green stuff world liquid pigments. they are actually great. I know citadel no the oxide (turquoise) one as well, which is similar. The GS world turquoise oxide one is waaaay better though.
I like to use Isopropyl 90% first and then i use a varnish (50/50 glue/water) with an indirect application to lock the pigments down. It's an old scale modeling truck I learned from my Dad. Seems to work for me.
I've never used pigment powders, but now I might have to give them a go. I was planning on painting a 40k dreadnought at some point, so these techniques would be perfect for weathering.
My general feeling is why not both, Full weathering I usually use a mix, the pigment gives a really nice effect, it has a matte staining that feels very credible and works well alone or in combination with something like Dirty Down.
@@VinceVenturella would the dirty down be more for the flat areas and the powder in crevices and other textured and recessed areas? Or a base of dirty down and then just spread the pigment on top like you show in the video?
I always learn something from your videos! Thank you. In the past you’ve done you “go to” paints videos. What would you say are your “go to” pigments for the techniques in this video?
Ork scrap metal bases are maybe the best candidate for these pigments I reckon if you're just starting using then. Just 'trying them out' on an Imperial Knight metal painted leg for example at the end of your main painting task for them is a bit too risky. Bases I see as a free for all which plays second fiddle to the main piece which is the miniatre sat on top of it !
Thank you Vince for another great tutorial. May I ask: Have you used pastels for a economic source of pigments and, How do you apply the binding agent so you dont wipe the pigments off?
Great video as always!. I've been using pigments almost exclusively for bases, never thought about blending, or adding them to paint, will definitely try it out!. May I also ask which color you're using at 3:05 (Tip nº 2 on the video)?.
I used these on my krieg models and noticed it kind of only really took away definition I had given to the model from the previous highlight and washing steps is there a way to avoid that happening?
That is what will happen when strongly applied, as it will flatten everything out. One trick is to wipe heavily, this leaves the pigment only in the recesses. So it ends up further defining the shape as then the top color remains and it’s quite realisric and credible as well.
I know this video was posted a year ago so I'm not sure you'll see this question, but for bases with tufts and other sorts of grass and foliage on it, would you apply the pigment before or after said foliage?
I want to run a neutral brown pigment into some "marble" bases to make my ruined temple bases have a bit of wear and tear. How would you get the pigments to only stick into the recess? I was thinking about mixing the pigment into some mineral spirits and use it like a pinwash. Is there a better way?
What do you use for base when brushing it directly on a figure/surface? I want to use it for cosplay but I need something to make it stick cause if I brush it on dry it just falls right off
Fantastic video, thank you! But question please : do the pigments stay "in place", when dropped by the brush ? Or need to use some varnish afterwards ? But if so, will the pigments "move" and dilute themselves ? Thank you
So in general, if the pigments are really worked into something like the base, they will pretty much stay, In general, if I have any concerns, then I just give it an all over varnish.
have you used the AK liquid enamel pigments? I am having such a hard time finding any info about them, was hoping you might have some insight into them
I usually use pigments as washes on my bases. Pigment+Water+matt varnish. It works great. I then drybrush edges on metal parts. I work on mostly green/blue GCPS team atm and after watching your video decided to add redish pigment on painted bases for some contrast. Will airbrush matt varnish on top to fix them in place... New way of doing It so I hope It will look great.
Hi Vince. Due to general laziness and random storage solutions my models tend to accumulate loads of dust on them, so when I play them I have to remove it with a brush otherwise it wouldn't come off. For that reason I always fix the pigments with the binder, but applying it with a brush the finish is always considerably worse than before it. Do you have some tips on dropping the binder on them without an airbrush but somehow mitigate the damage to the previous application of the pigments?
use a paint or toothbrush loaded with your binder of choice, and flick it at the pigment like you are applying blood splatter. but do it to cover the whole area of pigment. I think the recommendation is from vallejo, they say to use airbrush thinner, and thats worked well for me.
A question if you may: I have no idea about the chemicals behind colours, but I have been told that you can buy pastels and grind them to dust and use them for that job as well. Any opinions?
Question, sir: How would you compare rust/grime weathering with pigments vs oil washes in terms of ease of use and quality of result? Would you use both on the same model?
Yeah, very different really in their final effect, but you could easily use both together. The pigments will end up settling a little more matte and can often be a little more bright.
"There's a lot of dirt outside, in fact, that's where they keep all that dirt. Outside."
My children would like to disagree.
Awesome vid as always, looking forward to the pure pigment one as well.
Vince's statement and your response are both fantastic!
Am geologist. Have been gardener. Sometimes dirt comes inside. :D
Alright, we may not keep ALL of it outside... but for the most part I think we try to keep to all that we can of it out there. Some of us are just less successful about doing that at times.
My dogs also seem determined to make this switch. :)
my sides :"D:D:D
Wow that skin trick is crazy! Will be trying that and the metal rust for sure later, another great video as usual
Happy to help.
Making my own Typhus Corrosion? You are offically my Hero , Vince! I go through a lot of Typhus Corrosion painting my beloved Death Guard and I am so tired of pots drying out. I have loads of pigments made by Huge Miniatures here in Ohio and you just saved me a lot of headache. Thank you so much for all of the free ideas. :) You are a true asset to our little hobby community.
Always happy to help. :)
6:04 another great thing for vehicles is the Tamiya clear paints. I use the orange one for rusting and also for leakage (lubricant, oil or whatever)
for example, you could apply it here where you have the rivets, so it's like water leaking out. It works quite well as new rust/still wet etc. I got it initially for leakage, but it certainly works for rusted areas as well, where you want to show some water still coming out of the machine parts.
One thing I also like to do is dye my texture paints like vallejo sand with pigments. Not only does that make it really easy to just have a different colored base it more often than not makes for better rust texture than my regular rust paints.
Love this!
@@VinceVenturellame too!! That’s awesome, I’ll definitely try that out with gsw rust texture and citadel typhus corrosion paint!!
Hey vince I've been struggling applying weather powder to the sides of my super heavy tanks what gonna be the best way for it to stick
Just got my first pigments. Watched this video a while ago, now I can watch it again. And use your knowledge and archive.
Nice Video. Little suggestion if you want to save some money: buy chalk pastels and crush them up to a fine powder. They work about as well as the pre made pigments, but a box of cheap pastels costs about 5-10 bucks, you get loads of colour(even some brighter ones for maybe magic effects?). Also great for experiments.
Agree 100%, been using pastels for years.
Yep, great tip!
Love the shine on the armor at 4:07!
Thanks for the informative video, Vince! I recently picked up some pigments from Vallejo and I've just been nervous to use them. That skin trick is insane! Good all around guide for using these and making them a more approachable tool.
Lol only saw the top of this comment and hoped it finished;
_"... I recently picked up some pigments from Vallejo and I've just been staring at them."_
Glad I could help!
Thank you! You really make an incredible contribution to the painting community!
My pleasure!
Second to that. Super informative , answers up front and well structured.
Great video, watched it while applying pigment on a dusty base for a cowboy model and it gives it so much depth!
Yes it does!
I came to you again for some advice on pigments for aging stuff and you blew my mind with those soft shadows trick!... You've all the tricks mate, this videos are always gold!👏👏
Thanks Vince! I use pigments all the time and for some reason I never thought of using them to tint flesh. Wonderful Masterclass as always!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much. I started the journey of miniature painting 3 month ago and was able to achieve amazing results by watching your videos and applying the technique.
That's wonderful to hear!
I thought I would just learn about painting miniatures from Vince, but here I am getting tips that really bolster my 2D painting as well! Especially in videos like this, his color-series, and OST tips.
Thanks Vince!! You're the best!!!!
Always happy to help. :)
You cover a lot of ground in this video and all of it is very helpful - thanks for your time and the excellent videos!
My pleasure!
The homemade typhus corrosion point is blowing my mind. I was using texture paints with a bit of water before. Awesome tips as always thanks Vince
Awesome!
I never thought of using pigments for blending skin. Thank you
Happy to help!
Loving the look of the pigment work!
I would definitely suggest being careful with the artist pigments. These are meant to be mixed with oil and turned into paints so in their powder form some are very dangerous! Check the MSDS, wear protective equipment, and maybe seal the toxic powders like cadmiums, cobalts, etc. if you go with the vibrant colors.
Yes, that is why I wanted to leave them for a seprate video, lots more to do there.
Very nice video! My tip: mix dry pigment with linseed oil to make your own oil paint. For most colors it would be easier to buy the paint, but you can make for example fluorescent oil paint or simply the paint you don’t already have but you need it, and you have the pigment.
Great tip!
Good tips as usual. As to the bonus one, you can also use bicarbonate of soda for much the same effect if you don't have pigments around. As it's white, it tends to just take the colour of whatever paint you use, making for some interesting possibilities. It's very good for sand bases and dirt textures on minis.
Solid tip!
I've only recently started using pigments and own a massive library of 1 🤣. Appreciate your experience on this... I've only used it on basing.
It’s really such a powerful tool. :)
I've never thought to use pigments to add hue variation to skin tones before. Thanks as always!
Happy to help.
Thank you very much! This was a super useful and informative video. All these tips and tricks that you have learned over the years and share with us helps us all get batter. So thanks!
Happy to help!
There isn’t a topic that Larry can’t add to it!!! Great video! Gave me a few new ideas…especially the bonus
Thanks! Happy to help.
Really great video showed me some great techniques i will try out. I RL entropy stuff with plenty of rust and corrosion, find pigments mixed with tile grout or talc and a bit water makes a great rough corroser surface effect
Amazing stuff Vince! I have recently got back into the hobby and you have been an invaluable help in upping my painting and craft skills.
Some twenty odd years ago, I worked in a tourist attraction in the UK that was a series of caves where they used to mine iron ore. They gave me some raw red ochre pigment that I rediscovered in my art draw recently. It's an amazing asset for me as I'm building a rockgut troggoth army who, well, live in caves so with your tips my bases are looking like the caves I once worked in (thankfully there were no troggoths down there). Can't wait to try it out on the minis themselves!
Trying to make the rocks look slippery and green led me to another use of pigment. Green Stuff World's 'wild moss' is great for green mould/algae stains on rocks when fixed with a wash or Isopropyl alcohol as you showed in your other vids. Mixed with their 'mud medium' and worked on a bit it can make great algae for rock pools and slippery rocks too. I haven't tried it for actual moss effects yet, but will experiment with that soon.
Absolutely, ironically, you'll see some moss coming on bases next month. ;)
"In fact, that's where they keep all the dirt, outside". Learning something new everyday :D
Ontopic: Nice video. I never tried pigments because I was under the impression these were only used to make things look dirty. Will check them for the bases now, thnx.
That what they are mostly used for. You can also achieve some finer effects like OSL with them if you get some brighter coloured ones (or maybe a magic effect on the base). You have to experiment with them a little bit, like every new paint, they are just a tool and it falls back to you what you can achieve with them.
Glad we gave you some ideas here. :)
Great video, I am in the process of painting my Deagostini Millennium Falcon and there are plenty of rust marks and damage areas for pigment to apply. Now I have to buy some, thanks.
Happy to help!
“That’s where they keep all the dirt - outside.” - Vince Venturella
Brilliantly, dry wit. I love it.
Glad you enjoyed :)
What a timely video, I just picked up some pigments the other day. 👍
Perfect!
Great video Vince, thanks ! I bought a bunch of pigments but I was a bit afraid to use them on my models... the blending shadow is mind blowing !
My pleasure!
Thanks so much! Still new to using pigments and the binders, appericate the video !
Happy to help.
#4, never thought about that. Aka got to try it out!
Great video as always Vince!
Awesome!
Thanks for the info Vince!, always wanted to explore pigments, but wasn't sure how to use them properly, until now.
Awesome. :)
new mic? Sounds so good!
Working on that sound balance, same mic, just figuring out the tools I'm using and trying to improve. :)
excellent video
I like making a pigment wash, put it where you need, let it dry and then come back in with an old brush and rough it up. Found it was good if you want to keep the top layer of colour a little more clearer, or having the pigment colour stronger in the recesses.
Like the adding water after for the rust though!
Absolutely!
6:25 on metals yes, on fragile paintjobs like airbrushed layers I found dat IPA (even lower percentages) tend to damage the paintjob in one way or another (even after layers of varnish). White spirits is a good alternative that is safe to use. Bonus is that I found that white spirit preserves the pigment (both the color and where and how you placed the pigment) way better than IPA/medium/varnish/paint/water etc. Slight downside is fixes the pigment less than the rest of the options; still more than not fixing it at all though.
"In fact, that's where they keep *all* the dirt." 🤣 But seriously, this will bring my basing and weathering game up a few notches. Thanks, Vince!
Happy to help!
Have been experimenting with "hobby" pigments more lately and really loving them. Besides the obvious reasons, I think I figured out why. The pigment is so finely grained that my brain excepts it as in scale.
There you go.
Exactly the video i was looking for, thank you so much Vince.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I never thought about using pigments on the skin, can't wait to try this out, thanks!
Happy to help!
Awesome video! Looking forward to the actual artist grade pigments, as I already have quite the collection of those. 😁
Making a wash with isopropanol and pigment is a great way to weather vehicles, as it means you can get into details better than you can with it in powder form. I mean I guess you can still get in there with the powder, but it gets on everything. With the wash you can be way more controlled in your application.
Searching for this is exactly what brought me to this video -- was wondering if I could mix powder pigment with alcohol to make my own "streaking grime"
5:05 Love a video on raw pigments! Maybe an overview video where you compare a bunch of different options?
yep, that is the plan. :)
Always great videos with mr Vee the technomancer!!! 🥰
Thanks!
that ogre model with the pigments was amazing
This tutorial will really be useful for me. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
This is amazing! I LOVE knights and I always end up painting them as battleworn as best I can, but achieving this purely with paint and drybrush (I'm still very new to painting) always looks cool enough from a distance, but I always felt like something was sorely missing. I'm deffo gonna get hold of some pigments! The tip about skin was brilliant, my wife is about to paint a giant and I have to show her this ASAP
Thanks! Always happy to help.
Extremely helpful as always, thank you.
Glad to hear it!
These are great techniques. I never thought to use IPA or water to gather the pigment to make rust more realistic, that's definitely something I have to try.
It's worth noting that Jeremy from Black Magic Craft has a good video on how to make very cheap pigment powder by using chalk. I'd check that out if you don't want to overpay, or if you want a specific color.
Absolutely, that chalk is a great solution.
Another Vince's video to be add to my best mini vids ever
Thanks Vince! I’ve got some nice big boss minis from Bardsung, and I’m going to put your ideas to work today 👍🏻
Awesome
Awesome tutorial Vince! 🙌🏼😎
Glad you liked it!
As a thought I wonder if they would work with a loaded brush.
I'm imagining that you could get some pigment on the brush and then work a bit of paint into the brush and stipple/dry brush the model.
My guess is that the colour will mix with the pigment in the brush and get progressively darker
I think I would do it the other way around - some wet paint in the ferrule and then a bit of pigment on the tip coudl be an interesting experiement.
@@VinceVenturella Wet brush + pigment = chunky mud. I did it on a recent figure. Got my sacrificial brush wet/blotted, dipped tip in the pigment and gave it a shake, then applied to the figure. Result was CHUNKY mud bits. Figure posed running through a forest, so mud was needed.
I think you'd need a lot of specialized control and practice to not just end up with smeary slop.
Sometimes you want smeary slop though.
Regarding the chunky paint. I have found that layering multiple rust tones can mush the pigment together and reduces the texture. To avoid this, you can mix a sprinkle of sand in with the first pigment layer. I also like to fix my pigment in place with some brown or black oil washes to darken recesses and create tonal variation. I also like to sprinkle pigment with a shaker or by placing some in the container lid and tapping it onto the model. Its messy and only suitable for larger models, but it gives a different look compared to if it was painted on with a brush.
Good tips.
That was really helpful, looking forward to play with some pigments. Thanks so much, Vince!
Happy to help.
just what I was needing. I have been getting into pigments recently, but mainly just buying them, Lol (not used them yet on my minis) I mostly got them for bases, and for vehicles though. I have used them when mixed with isopropanol for getting into details, but I've not used them in their powder form yet. I just assumed they'd fall off without some kind of fixer.
PS: I have also used green stuff world liquid pigments. they are actually great. I know citadel no the oxide (turquoise) one as well, which is similar. The GS world turquoise oxide one is waaaay better though.
I like to use Isopropyl 90% first and then i use a varnish (50/50 glue/water) with an indirect application to lock the pigments down. It's an old scale modeling truck I learned from my Dad. Seems to work for me.
Nice!
You’re amazing, Vince. Thank you.
My pleasure!
9:16 I think you missed the embedding the video about the terrain piece. Can you add it now that the video is already live?
I'll check it out, not sure why it wouldn't show.
I've never used pigment powders, but now I might have to give them a go. I was planning on painting a 40k dreadnought at some point, so these techniques would be perfect for weathering.
Absolutely!
That was wonderful, and just what I was looking for! Thanks, Vince!
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant! I need to get some pigments!
You should!
Right on Vince thank you
Happy to help.
Google literally anything and this dude has a video about it i s2g
Mans carrying this hobby
Thank you, I apprecaite that greatly. :)
I've also heard of sealing the pigment with ipa
Yep, you can also do this
Thanks Vince! Top tips
Happy to help!
For the rust powder, what’s the benefit of using as opposed to something like dirty down?
My general feeling is why not both, Full weathering I usually use a mix, the pigment gives a really nice effect, it has a matte staining that feels very credible and works well alone or in combination with something like Dirty Down.
@@VinceVenturella would the dirty down be more for the flat areas and the powder in crevices and other textured and recessed areas? Or a base of dirty down and then just spread the pigment on top like you show in the video?
Very much looking forward to the future video you mentioned where you use actual raw pigment! Maybe compare that to pigments you already have?
Yep, that will be a fun video for sure.
I always learn something from your videos! Thank you. In the past you’ve done you “go to” paints videos. What would you say are your “go to” pigments for the techniques in this video?
Anything in the brown/red rust/black range from Vallejo, I really like those tones.
Awesome vid thanks for opening my eyes to pigments!
Happy to help.
you made me giggle with the dirt joke... subbed
Awesome! Welcome! Glad to have you along on the hobby journey.
pigments for shading on minis.....thats so clever!
Thanks!
Ork scrap metal bases are maybe the best candidate for these pigments I reckon if you're just starting using then. Just 'trying them out' on an Imperial Knight metal painted leg for example at the end of your main painting task for them is a bit too risky. Bases I see as a free for all which plays second fiddle to the main piece which is the miniatre sat on top of it !
In the end, it's all painted models, I tend to treat them all the same. ;)
Thank you Vince for another great tutorial. May I ask: Have you used pastels for a economic source of pigments and, How do you apply the binding agent so you dont wipe the pigments off?
Future video for the pastel pigments, but yes, generally, I use them and then varnish over the top rather than rely on fixer.
Super helpful video! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Vince always enjoy the content.
Thanks!
That is really nice. I have however a side question regarding the greens you used for the building you blend into the base...
Okay - what's the question. :)
@@VinceVenturella what colours did you use?
@@wimvanackooij2594 I believe it is a secret weapon pigment called Sewage Muck.
@@VinceVenturella thanks man - I really believed to have asked the question in one shot. I really appreciate you coming back twice.
Have you tried using the fluor pigments (from GSW for example) for glow in OSD? It seems like it would work well for plasma for example.
Not yet, it's on my list to try.
Great video as always!. I've been using pigments almost exclusively for bases, never thought about blending, or adding them to paint, will definitely try it out!.
May I also ask which color you're using at 3:05 (Tip nº 2 on the video)?.
Vallejo terracotta I believe
thanks for sharing maestro vince !!!!
Happy to help.
I used these on my krieg models and noticed it kind of only really took away definition I had given to the model from the previous highlight and washing steps is there a way to avoid that happening?
That is what will happen when strongly applied, as it will flatten everything out. One trick is to wipe heavily, this leaves the pigment only in the recesses. So it ends up further defining the shape as then the top color remains and it’s quite realisric and credible as well.
I know this video was posted a year ago so I'm not sure you'll see this question, but for bases with tufts and other sorts of grass and foliage on it, would you apply the pigment before or after said foliage?
You can see my exact process in a recent video - th-cam.com/video/cTWC-jfh3z4/w-d-xo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
But short answer, pigment first.
I want to run a neutral brown pigment into some "marble" bases to make my ruined temple bases have a bit of wear and tear. How would you get the pigments to only stick into the recess? I was thinking about mixing the pigment into some mineral spirits and use it like a pinwash. Is there a better way?
That works, though something like just water or water with a little alcohol can also work, but you should absolutely varnish first.
Lookin' good Larry!
He's the hero we need.
What do you use for base when brushing it directly on a figure/surface? I want to use it for cosplay but I need something to make it stick cause if I brush it on dry it just falls right off
It will stick to a matte surface better than anything else, and ultimately, you'll want to seal it in there with some kind of varnish afterward.
Fantastic video, thank you! But question please : do the pigments stay "in place", when dropped by the brush ? Or need to use some varnish afterwards ? But if so, will the pigments "move" and dilute themselves ?
Thank you
So in general, if the pigments are really worked into something like the base, they will pretty much stay, In general, if I have any concerns, then I just give it an all over varnish.
Vince I just bought some cosmetic pigments for painting minis. Did I screw up? They all seem to be colored mica...
No, that’s fine too, you can use those and fix them all the same.
have you used the AK liquid enamel pigments? I am having such a hard time finding any info about them, was hoping you might have some insight into them
Not yet! I'll have to give them a try.
What can you suggest for making an oil paint that set when heated?
OIl paint has to dry/cure completely. So it's just time and oxidation.
I usually use pigments as washes on my bases. Pigment+Water+matt varnish. It works great. I then drybrush edges on metal parts.
I work on mostly green/blue GCPS team atm and after watching your video decided to add redish pigment on painted bases for some contrast. Will airbrush matt varnish on top to fix them in place... New way of doing It so I hope It will look great.
Happy to help!
Any chance you are doing a video on dirty down Rust, Moss and Verdigris?
Gotta get my hands on some, I want to give it a review.
Hi Vince. Due to general laziness and random storage solutions my models tend to accumulate loads of dust on them, so when I play them I have to remove it with a brush otherwise it wouldn't come off. For that reason I always fix the pigments with the binder, but applying it with a brush the finish is always considerably worse than before it. Do you have some tips on dropping the binder on them without an airbrush but somehow mitigate the damage to the previous application of the pigments?
use a paint or toothbrush loaded with your binder of choice, and flick it at the pigment like you are applying blood splatter. but do it to cover the whole area of pigment. I think the recommendation is from vallejo, they say to use airbrush thinner, and thats worked well for me.
The above advice is really good, and yes, airbrush varnish is also my standard method. (That being said, get something to store those models! ;) )
Looking forward to the Single Pigment Paints video.
In fact, just subscribed so I don't miss it. Thanks for the help so far Vince.
Glad to have you along on the hobby journey and always happy to help!
A question if you may: I have no idea about the chemicals behind colours, but I have been told that you can buy pastels and grind them to dust and use them for that job as well. Any opinions?
Yep, you can absolutely do that as well
@@VinceVenturella another one please: Which would you consider as the go to method as to apply them? Brush, sponge or it doesnt matter?
@@christosvozikis881 Just like you saw the pigments here.
Is it essential to seal the pigment?
Does a spray can of Matt varnish can do the job?
I don't often seal it, but yes, varnish will do so.
6:30 wouldn´t this work even better with white spirits?
That would be fine as well.
Question, sir: How would you compare rust/grime weathering with pigments vs oil washes in terms of ease of use and quality of result? Would you use both on the same model?
Yeah, very different really in their final effect, but you could easily use both together. The pigments will end up settling a little more matte and can often be a little more bright.
Great video, love it! awesome content!
Thanks!