Wow - thank you so much Don! I am so grateful for your generosity! And it's great to know that the videos help you in your enjoyment and growth in the hobby. That really does mean a lot to me. Thanks again, and happy day to you!
Just discovered your channel. I really love your clear, concise, and straightforward delivery that's very easy to understand. Yet you're still very comprehensive. Definitely one of the most underrated scale model channels on YT. Thank you for all your helpful tips and lessons.
Thank you so much for your kind words, and I'm so glad my videos are useful for you. Please share with your friends! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
VMS 'fine' and 'zero' type pigments are great, I mixed them with mineral spirit and applied on my model tank, the oil helps pigments flow into the corners and it's very easy to clean the excess. Just make sure the paint job is protected with a varnish. Great great video, love these educational videos with product showdown.
definitely going to be exploring this. the last time i did anything like this was mid-90's and i just used some pastel chalk, scraped off with a knife and brushed on, then clear coated. looking forward to whats changed since then.
I've used the chalks, and they work OK to a certain extent. I do think there is enough of a difference with pigments that it's worth trying a couple. Having both is helpful actually! :D Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much! Yeah, they do work just fine for that. That's pretty much how I use them for soot and cordite effects. Quick and easy! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Being an OG I started with pastels and use afew colors even now,tho you get a funny look if you say you still have and use pastels out loud..lol. Pigments are just a game changer tool in modeling and are on (or should be )your “must have “ bucket list of modeling tools. Tho there are some popular TH-camrs that dislike pigments because they find the model shedding pigments and etc..I disagree on that subject. Unless you are playing with the model a.k.a. touching it or moving it I haven’t seen pigments just falling off the model. I just believe pigments should be there with acrylic and enamel earth/mud products.And like most products of the hobby-work best in layers in conjunction with the acrylics or enamels .Super video Jon as always. :) Tim
Fantastic summary of pigments. I’ve played around with creating pigment washes like you’ve done, but I found that using water was challenging because of the surface tension. Have you tried dissolving pigments with mineral spirits? Flows very easily and can be cleaned up a little with clean mineral spirits before it dries. The only downside is that it’s problematic over enamel products or oil paints.
I have done that, but in the end I felt it wasn't different enough to use versus enamel or oil washes. What I have done is mix pigments with enamel washes - that works well! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your videos teach so many great and useful tips. I'm glad to have found your channel when I got back into the hobby, six months ago. Enjoy your videos, brother. ybiC
Greetings! Maybe, you can give me some advice about your favorite aplication method. ( i mean that one wich is actually looks like a load of mud with vallejo acrylic washes). Could i replace acryclic with tamiya or mr hobby wash f.e? or maybe you know the recipe for making DIY acrylic wash :D. It is really hard to find any kind of vallejo and citadel products for me, but i have an acrylic medium and thinking that it should be possible to make it by myself:) Sorry for my english, haven been practice for a long time. Hope you can understand me. And Thank You for your work and videos. It is really very usefull and greate content!
No worries Alex - your English is perfect! I'd recommend using thinned acrylic paints, rather than Tamiya or Mr. Hobby Washes. While those might work, without knowing any additional details about the models you're working on, I think using acrylic medium is the safest option. You could add in any water-based acrylic paint, or even inks. You'd basically just need a colored acrylic wash. I'd recommend experimenting on an older model, or even a plastic toy. That way you will be able to test what works best. Good luck with that. And thank you for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Excellent and vey informative video as usual. Would adding soap to the water help to break the surface tension with pigments? And help mix them better?
It can, though it also reduce their ability to hold in place. So look for a balance that works through experimenting. Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I'd say it's optional. Any medium you put over pigments - spray, fixer, etc., may change the look of it. So I'd recommend experimenting on spare parts to see how the pigments react so you'll be able to account for anything that may change. Thanks so much for your kind words, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I was curious if I can apply my pigment dry on a model then just varnish over it without needing a binder? I've heard you can. Just curious. I just ordered my first pigments to try out on my miniatures.
Anything you apply over pigments that is wet will in some way change their look. Binders, varnish, and other weathering and finishing products will have some effect. The key is to experiment on a test model to see the interactions, and then adjust the application of the pigments and/or the follow up layer so you can see what's needed to achieve the desired end result. I hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
@@JonBius Thank you so much. I just ordered Green Stuff World's black metal pigment for my Black Templars. Your video was seriously great for learning how to use them. Thank you so much!
Yes, absolutely. The surface tension is a little different. I'd recommend doing some trial work on a spare model or underneath the actual model in question. Having an idea of how it behaves will better help the "live" application. I hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! Yes, you can use fixer. Just keep in mind what it made of, and what it's going over. You don't want any bad interactions. Test an area on the underside or hidden away first. Hope that helps!
Question sir: I tried using pastels on my last plane, exactly as you described, but when I applied gloss clear coat the pastels all gunked up! Most of them did anyway. I removed what I could, applied decals and finished with a matt clear coat. Maybe pigments or the tamiya weathering products would work better? They really do greatly enhance a model, at least in my opinion in my limited experience with pastels.
Yeah, any liquid you put over pigments will alter it in some way, no way around it. Especially if you applied it with a brush. Tamiya pigments, though a bit wetter, can still have their properties altered. Ultimately it is a process of experimentation to find what works and what doesn't. Quite often the simplest method is to apply pigments last and then nothing else. I hope that information helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for getting back to me. I appreciate the guidance. Yep I agree the post-completion method works well! Tried that approach on one of my planes (Tornado GR4) and it worked well. I think on this one I'm going to try the pigments on a small area on the bottom of plane (1/72 B-52) and then do the clear coat to see how it works. Thanks again!
That does work! Keep in mind that the more pigment you mix in, the less like paint it will be and more like paste - so if that's not what you're going for, add thinners too. Pigments are a great way to "matte out" a glossier or satin paint. The key is experimenting a bit to get the desired effect. Have fun with it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You can, but I'd advise testing it first on a test model. It may change the color and opacity, so it helps to be prepared for when you do it on the final piece. Thanks for watching and commenting!
🤣🤣🤣 Oh, she's in on the joke actually. When we're getting ready to go out, if I say "are you almost ready?", she'll say "just putting on my weathering powder and panel lining!" 🤣 Thanks for watching and commenting!
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 25 วันนี้!! "อเล็กซิส vs รีเกียน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/suVr9a6BM2g/mqdefault.jpg)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 82 วันนี้!! คู่เอก | ยอดไอคิว vs อับดัลลาห์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hSsyTl_9bqs/mqdefault.jpg)
You inspire me to stretch my builds, and grow my skills.
Wow - thank you so much Don! I am so grateful for your generosity! And it's great to know that the videos help you in your enjoyment and growth in the hobby. That really does mean a lot to me.
Thanks again, and happy day to you!
Pigments are one area of the hobby that I really need to get into and this is a good video to get started with and as you say push me over the edge.
Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful. 😊
Thanks for watching and commenting my friend!
Just discovered your channel. I really love your clear, concise, and straightforward delivery that's very easy to understand. Yet you're still very comprehensive. Definitely one of the most underrated scale model channels on YT. Thank you for all your helpful tips and lessons.
Thank you so much for your kind words, and I'm so glad my videos are useful for you. Please share with your friends!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Good information again. I saved the playlist to watch them again before I try new techniques. Thank you Jon.
Awesome, thank you! :D
VMS 'fine' and 'zero' type pigments are great, I mixed them with mineral spirit and applied on my model tank, the oil helps pigments flow into the corners and it's very easy to clean the excess. Just make sure the paint job is protected with a varnish.
Great great video, love these educational videos with product showdown.
Good to know! And I am grateful for the kind words. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I bought some pigments, and was looking for some time for a good indepth tutorial on how to use them. Your vid is the best I saw so far. Thanks
I'm so glad you found it helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks for including us!
You are welcome! Thanks for your great products! They are always top of the line!
definitely going to be exploring this. the last time i did anything like this was mid-90's and i just used some pastel chalk, scraped off with a knife and brushed on, then clear coated. looking forward to whats changed since then.
I've used the chalks, and they work OK to a certain extent. I do think there is enough of a difference with pigments that it's worth trying a couple. Having both is helpful actually! :D
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Good information! Thanks for sharing Jon! Happy days and model on! 😎
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend!
This helps a lot. I use just plain grey primer. Found a good quality set of greyscale pastels. Giving them a try with preshading.
I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Thank you, now I know how to do it
Thanks for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend!
As always, thank you! 🙏
My pleasure! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Great video, Jon! I tend to use the Tamiya pigments for drybrushing.
Thanks so much! Yeah, they do work just fine for that. That's pretty much how I use them for soot and cordite effects. Quick and easy!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Being an OG I started with pastels and use afew colors even now,tho you get a funny look if you say you still have and use pastels out loud..lol. Pigments are just a game changer tool in modeling and are on (or should be )your “must have “ bucket list of modeling tools. Tho there are some popular TH-camrs that dislike pigments because they find the model shedding pigments and etc..I disagree on that subject. Unless you are playing with the model a.k.a. touching it or moving it I haven’t seen pigments just falling off the model. I just believe pigments should be there with acrylic and enamel earth/mud products.And like most products of the hobby-work best in layers in conjunction with the acrylics or enamels .Super video Jon as always. :) Tim
Good information, and thanks for your kind words!
And thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent info. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Cheers mate!
Wow- thank you so much! I am grateful. 😊
Happy day to you friend - I hope all is well there.
Fantastic summary of pigments. I’ve played around with creating pigment washes like you’ve done, but I found that using water was challenging because of the surface tension. Have you tried dissolving pigments with mineral spirits? Flows very easily and can be cleaned up a little with clean mineral spirits before it dries. The only downside is that it’s problematic over enamel products or oil paints.
I have done that, but in the end I felt it wasn't different enough to use versus enamel or oil washes. What I have done is mix pigments with enamel washes - that works well!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very good 👍
Thank you so much, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I have actually used makeup to do some truly alien planetary dust effects or to enhance OSL...you can work with it identically to the Tamiya powders.
Yes! They have so many crazy colors to choose from.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
For rust and black I just use red and black chalk that are use for chalk lines in construction, get a big bottle for a few bucks and works grate 🤷
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your videos teach so many great and useful tips.
I'm glad to have found your channel when I got back into the hobby, six months ago.
Enjoy your videos, brother.
ybiC
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful! Welcome back to the hobby. That
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Greetings! Maybe, you can give me some advice about your favorite aplication method. ( i mean that one wich is actually looks like a load of mud with vallejo acrylic washes). Could i replace acryclic with tamiya or mr hobby wash f.e? or maybe you know the recipe for making DIY acrylic wash :D. It is really hard to find any kind of vallejo and citadel products for me, but i have an acrylic medium and thinking that it should be possible to make it by myself:) Sorry for my english, haven been practice for a long time. Hope you can understand me. And Thank You for your work and videos. It is really very usefull and greate content!
No worries Alex - your English is perfect!
I'd recommend using thinned acrylic paints, rather than Tamiya or Mr. Hobby Washes. While those might work, without knowing any additional details about the models you're working on, I think using acrylic medium is the safest option. You could add in any water-based acrylic paint, or even inks. You'd basically just need a colored acrylic wash. I'd recommend experimenting on an older model, or even a plastic toy. That way you will be able to test what works best.
Good luck with that. And thank you for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thank you a lot!
Excellent and vey informative video as usual. Would adding soap to the water help to break the surface tension with pigments? And help mix them better?
It can, though it also reduce their ability to hold in place. So look for a balance that works through experimenting.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I enjoy your video. Just à question. After poing pigments and dust, must I spray varnish. Thanks you answer.
I'd say it's optional. Any medium you put over pigments - spray, fixer, etc., may change the look of it. So I'd recommend experimenting on spare parts to see how the pigments react so you'll be able to account for anything that may change.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thanks a lot for answer. Thus it isn't an obligation to protect the pigments with varnish. Thanks .
I was curious if I can apply my pigment dry on a model then just varnish over it without needing a binder? I've heard you can. Just curious. I just ordered my first pigments to try out on my miniatures.
Anything you apply over pigments that is wet will in some way change their look. Binders, varnish, and other weathering and finishing products will have some effect. The key is to experiment on a test model to see the interactions, and then adjust the application of the pigments and/or the follow up layer so you can see what's needed to achieve the desired end result.
I hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
@@JonBius Thank you so much. I just ordered Green Stuff World's black metal pigment for my Black Templars. Your video was seriously great for learning how to use them. Thank you so much!
I am about to do some serious pigment work, are you able to do the wet steak (you used water) with enamel thinners (am using Abteilung 502 pigments)
Yes, absolutely. The surface tension is a little different. I'd recommend doing some trial work on a spare model or underneath the actual model in question. Having an idea of how it behaves will better help the "live" application.
I hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi jon,
When you mixed theoigment paste at 17:30 could you use pigment fixer for that instead of acrylic binder? Thanks so much for the tutorial!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Yes, you can use fixer. Just keep in mind what it made of, and what it's going over. You don't want any bad interactions. Test an area on the underside or hidden away first. Hope that helps!
Question sir: I tried using pastels on my last plane, exactly as you described, but when I applied gloss clear coat the pastels all gunked up! Most of them did anyway. I removed what I could, applied decals and finished with a matt clear coat. Maybe pigments or the tamiya weathering products would work better? They really do greatly enhance a model, at least in my opinion in my limited experience with pastels.
Yeah, any liquid you put over pigments will alter it in some way, no way around it. Especially if you applied it with a brush. Tamiya pigments, though a bit wetter, can still have their properties altered. Ultimately it is a process of experimentation to find what works and what doesn't. Quite often the simplest method is to apply pigments last and then nothing else.
I hope that information helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for getting back to me. I appreciate the guidance. Yep I agree the post-completion method works well! Tried that approach on one of my planes (Tornado GR4) and it worked well. I think on this one I'm going to try the pigments on a small area on the bottom of plane (1/72 B-52) and then do the clear coat to see how it works. Thanks again!
Maybe you want to take a look at a dedicated pigment dealer e.g. Kremer Pigmente.
Thanks for the tip!
Do you recommend mixing say, Vallejo Model paints w/Vallejo pigments?
That does work! Keep in mind that the more pigment you mix in, the less like paint it will be and more like paste - so if that's not what you're going for, add thinners too.
Pigments are a great way to "matte out" a glossier or satin paint.
The key is experimenting a bit to get the desired effect. Have fun with it!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can you skip the binder step if you’re planning on spraying a matte coat over the whole model?
You can, but I'd advise testing it first on a test model. It may change the color and opacity, so it helps to be prepared for when you do it on the final piece.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
"eyes and things like that"... Let's hope your wife doesn't hear that, Jon
🤣🤣🤣
Oh, she's in on the joke actually. When we're getting ready to go out, if I say "are you almost ready?", she'll say "just putting on my weathering powder and panel lining!" 🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius The best part is that there's some truth about it...
another excellent video Jon, thank you, I'm going to try the "thick mud" in the not too distant future
Great! It's a lot of fun to do. Thanks for your kind words and for watching and commenting!