Great video. One correction: On the little plastic protractor, the zero center is the hole in the middle of the flat bottom. Brazilian Ipe is a very hard wood used here for decking.
Keep sharing information on sharpening. I sharpen with 25 degree top plate angle and 10 degree tilt for cutting hardwoods here in Pennsylvania as well. Consistentcy from tooth to tooth and using a progressive depth gauge is key for a smooth cutting chain no matter how one sharpens it. The timber stand I am currently cutting has Ironwood, Black Birch, Beech, Hard Maple, and Ash that are being harvested. We also cut alot of Red & White Oak, Hickory, Soft Maple, Poplar, and Black Cherry, with White Pine and Hemlock mixed in. Cutting low stumps and bore cutting require chains to be sharpened differently than most factory grinds which is pretty much most of the cutting we do so I either sharpen it out of the box or use it to cut firewood or buck logs with then grind it for the felling I will be using it for. I hope to one day visit Australia and experience cutting your timber. Take care.
Thanks for your comments seems your angles are same as mine. I can say when I cut wood a full chisel chain lasts about 3 hours and semi chisel much the same. I know many people don't use full hisle in hard wood bur it works for me. I am only cross cutting fire wood only. I find the 10° works well as it keeps the hook smaller. You can have a MS 880 but if the chain is blunt it won't cut sharpness and angles are important 60 20 10 full chisle
@@ChainsawUsers My local dealers only carry semi-chisel in safety chain 20" or shorter, if one wants semi-chisel chisel other than that they have to order it. Most all the timber fallers here run Full-Chisel. I see alot of comments from folks in Australia running semi-chisel. I have used Semi-chisel but find it to be really slow cutting in the bore cut. I prefer Full Chisel as well.
@@ChainsawUsers I as well, with a rim sprocket conversion. I also run mostly 3/8 Full Skip Chain Carlton A1LMSK and Husqvarna C83S. I am going to try out the the .050 gauge .325 Full Chisel on a MS261 and MS361. Have you tried the narrow gauge .325 on any of your saws?
I'm a big fan of the old school metal Granberg. Looks complicated but is unbelievably simple once you get it. No reason you can't bring it anywhere, and you can't out hand file it, there is nothing you can't do with it. Not trying to convert you. But it's super underrated.
@@ChainsawUsers I was unaware of it, it looks like they really turned it into an heirloom quality tool. Super expensive but looks really well made, like a Stihl stuff I suppose. Thanks for the info.
Awesome channel. Great info just found it by looking how to file a full chisel chain. Thanks spanner man. Love the iron bark & grey box, even some yellow box, cheers from victoria. 👍
It may be just a camera induced illusion, but when I watch video of even "experts" hand filing saw chain, it often seems as if they start file strokes on the file tilt (either 0 or 10 down) they desire; but then toward the end of their stroke they dip the far end (non handle end) of the file down. I strive to stay on plane. I am new to grinders with recent use of Techomek Super Jolly with which I have managed to bungle a few cutters. The grinder gets the chain decently sharp, but, so far, my hand filed chains cut faster and smoother. The addictive thing about grinders is how quickly and consistenty they finish a long chain.
One thing you will find about grinders is what wheel you use l, pink oxide wheels are garbage but cheap. Brown resin impregnated are better or CBN. I use diamond wheel on tungsten carbide chains. Many things to learn about grinders
@@ChainsawUsersSpannerman, what diamond wheels are you using? I have noticed in Australia, we can get diamond wheels anywhere from $100 up to $700 for a single wheel. I can’t find the reason for the higher expense.
@el polaco I prefer those brown wheels they are 100 grit and give a better finish. Maciej who comments on here grinds chains everyday he has much more experience that'll many other people am sure he will comment
I spend hours blocking Ironbark for firewood. The last couple years I’ve been using tungsten tipped chains, both semi and full chisel. The standard steel chains are good for a few cuts… but overall time is money. Tungsten chains will last half dozen tanks of fuel.
Also when using a grinder its essential to have clean chain otherwise you are more likely to heat up the tooth. Been sharpening for years and just got told about. Wish someone told me sooner.
Yes I clean all my chains in caustic soda. I wait till I have about 4 chains to do and soak them in small container with tablespoon of caustic soda cleans all gum and oil off
Ever consider a Simington 451-C grinder? I live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, seems like the Simington is the go to grinder for every professional production timber faller in surrounding area. Although they are a little spendy, I believe the price will come well under price of 12 Oregon Grinders?
It is below 5 degrees you show on your protractor at th-cam.com/video/O6IqptByaVw/w-d-xo.html At 10 degrees, you must have the center of the file above the round hole and at the same time the center of the file above the 10 degree marking. I have used full chisel chains for many years and never filed my chains with the mentioned 10 degrees, which I will try next time there is a fire in the chainsaw. However, I have the feeling that it is only in very hard wood (dry) that you can feel a difference, if any.
Great video. One correction: On the little plastic protractor, the zero center is the hole in the middle of the flat bottom. Brazilian Ipe is a very hard wood used here for decking.
Thanks for your comments
Matey these are amazing videos we’ll done, this is exactly what I needed
Thankyou
Think I gona buy chisel n try your method Spanner Man
Keep sharing information on sharpening. I sharpen with 25 degree top plate angle and 10 degree tilt for cutting hardwoods here in Pennsylvania as well. Consistentcy from tooth to tooth and using a progressive depth gauge is key for a smooth cutting chain no matter how one sharpens it. The timber stand I am currently cutting has Ironwood, Black Birch, Beech, Hard Maple, and Ash that are being harvested. We also cut alot of Red & White Oak, Hickory, Soft Maple, Poplar, and Black Cherry, with White Pine and Hemlock mixed in. Cutting low stumps and bore cutting require chains to be sharpened differently than most factory grinds which is pretty much most of the cutting we do so I either sharpen it out of the box or use it to cut firewood or buck logs with then grind it for the felling I will be using it for. I hope to one day visit Australia and experience cutting your timber. Take care.
Thanks for your comments seems your angles are same as mine. I can say when I cut wood a full chisel chain lasts about 3 hours and semi chisel much the same. I know many people don't use full hisle in hard wood bur it works for me. I am only cross cutting fire wood only. I find the 10° works well as it keeps the hook smaller. You can have a MS 880 but if the chain is blunt it won't cut sharpness and angles are important 60 20 10 full chisle
@@ChainsawUsers My local dealers only carry semi-chisel in safety chain 20" or shorter, if one wants semi-chisel chisel other than that they have to order it. Most all the timber fallers here run Full-Chisel. I see alot of comments from folks in Australia running semi-chisel. I have used Semi-chisel but find it to be really slow cutting in the bore cut. I prefer Full Chisel as well.
@230E I have MS 170 and I run .050 gauge with full chisle also. I run full chisle 3/8 lp and standard 3/8
@@ChainsawUsers I as well, with a rim sprocket conversion. I also run mostly 3/8 Full Skip Chain Carlton A1LMSK and Husqvarna C83S. I am going to try out the the .050 gauge .325 Full Chisel on a MS261 and MS361. Have you tried the narrow gauge .325 on any of your saws?
@230E I only use 50 thou a day 63 thou gauge. .325 is so cl8se to 3/8 standard so I avoid it.
I'm a big fan of the old school metal Granberg. Looks complicated but is unbelievably simple once you get it. No reason you can't bring it anywhere, and you can't out hand file it, there is nothing you can't do with it. Not trying to convert you. But it's super underrated.
I have the Stihl FG 2 same as granburg they work well
@@ChainsawUsers I was unaware of it, it looks like they really turned it into an heirloom quality tool. Super expensive but looks really well made, like a Stihl stuff I suppose. Thanks for the info.
Awesome channel. Great info just found it by looking how to file a full chisel chain. Thanks spanner man. Love the iron bark & grey box, even some yellow box, cheers from victoria. 👍
Thanks central Vic here
It may be just a camera induced illusion, but when I watch video of even "experts" hand filing saw chain, it often seems as if they start file strokes on the file tilt (either 0 or 10 down) they desire; but then toward the end of their stroke they dip the far end (non handle end) of the file down. I strive to stay on plane. I am new to grinders with recent use of Techomek Super Jolly with which I have managed to bungle a few cutters. The grinder gets the chain decently sharp, but, so far, my hand filed chains cut faster and smoother. The addictive thing about grinders is how quickly and consistenty they finish a long chain.
One thing you will find about grinders is what wheel you use l, pink oxide wheels are garbage but cheap. Brown resin impregnated are better or CBN. I use diamond wheel on tungsten carbide chains.
Many things to learn about grinders
@@ChainsawUsersSpannerman, what diamond wheels are you using? I have noticed in Australia, we can get diamond wheels anywhere from $100 up to $700 for a single wheel. I can’t find the reason for the higher expense.
@el polaco I prefer those brown wheels they are 100 grit and give a better finish. Maciej who comments on here grinds chains everyday he has much more experience that'll many other people am sure he will comment
@Synevo 001 I use 145 mm diamond wheel $85 from johno and john works good and diamond wheels for dremel
I spend hours blocking Ironbark for firewood. The last couple years I’ve been using tungsten tipped chains, both semi and full chisel. The standard steel chains are good for a few cuts… but overall time is money. Tungsten chains will last half dozen tanks of fuel.
I have them also got mine from johno and johno they cut ok
Also when using a grinder its essential to have clean chain otherwise you are more likely to heat up the tooth. Been sharpening for years and just got told about. Wish someone told me sooner.
Yes I clean all my chains in caustic soda. I wait till I have about 4 chains to do and soak them in small container with tablespoon of caustic soda cleans all gum and oil off
Ever consider a Simington 451-C grinder? I live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, seems like the Simington is the go to grinder for every professional production timber faller in surrounding area. Although they are a little spendy, I believe the price will come well under price of 12 Oregon Grinders?
It is below 5 degrees you show on your protractor at th-cam.com/video/O6IqptByaVw/w-d-xo.html At 10 degrees, you must have the center of the file above the round hole and at the same time the center of the file above the 10 degree marking.
I have used full chisel chains for many years and never filed my chains with the mentioned 10 degrees, which I will try next time there is a fire in the chainsaw. However, I have the feeling that it is only in very hard wood (dry) that you can feel a difference, if any.
The protractor was just for demonstration purposes only for people who have no idea what 10° looks like
@@ChainsawUsers Yes ok. :-)
Hand filing with square/flat file on full chisel?
I tried square filing wow it takes a lot of time to master it.
Yes it does. And the files are costly (8-10$ ea.)@@ChainsawUsers
@Robert Dancho I buy files 12 in a box vallobe $36 so $3 each