Hi, biochemist here and worked as an aquatics specialist for a while. Chemiclean causes the water to become highly oxidized. Cyanobacteria is an obligate anaerobic bacteria. If it is exposed to high levels of oxygen it will prevent it from doing the respiration it needs to do. Your protein skimmer will also work overtime when chemiclean is applied because of the higher oxygen content in the water. This may help in nutrient export as well defeating Cyanobacteria.
@@jdamommio Thanks. Problem is no longer. Problem I have now is, lots of round things attached to the shop bought coral. They got tentacles and react to light, movement and food. I was happy with a bristle worm, these things are ugly though. Think I'll only use one bit of shop bought live rock in future set ups. These rocks got too many extras.
I used vibrant for some hair algae and to rid the gunk building up in my return pump tube that would just not come out from normal cleaning. Workd like a charm then in marched the cyano. I have read this is pretty common. I think, just my thoughts and not backed by anything i have read, if the vibrant is killing off algae, the cyano is poised to get at nutrients faster. My nutrients are both undetectable at this point and I am still fighting the good fight against cyano. I may just go the chemical route and nuke the stuff. No amount of scrubbing, cleaning, or water changes has kept it from coming right back.
I got rid of mine by keeping the lights out and changing my floss every two days and vacuuming the sand bed .... enjoyed this video you explained everything really well 😻
I love how you put it It really is Just like weight loss! another awesome video Than!! Thanks for the constant inspiration, I study The gardens business plan everyday! Im getting closer to my dream ! THANK YOU! CANT WAIT TO MEET YOU!
Do you think excess nutrients is what causes Cyano? I did a good sandbed vaccum and have seen a bit of cyano on my rocks since then.. may have caused a mini cycle. On the plus side my tank has been getting bonus water changes as i suck it out :)
Chemo clean is great!!! It works but watch the skimmer when you turn it back on. I use a 3/4 ball valve on the skimmer intake just to add an extra control.
Great Video as all your uploads tend to be, I do have one question for you to consider and possibly do a video on. What if the Algae outbreak is caused by the tank being Nitrate/Phosphate Limited. Where both are at or close to 0 and possible recovery options? Thanks again for your continued content.
I like to polish the water occasionally. I've heard that one can blackout your tank for several days.Corals should be ok & fish don't care. Scrub before and after, do water change THEN keep changing a filter pad every couple days. This works for me. (Until I get lazy about it.)
I agree,the reason is that people neglect clean the sand often and water changes and cleaning equipment.in good well maintained tanks with quality equipment we never see this problems because usually have superb water circulation and have less sand that should be, so is not room for this bad algaes to grow
You have to aerate your tank if you use that chemical. He REALLY should have mentioned that. It strips the O2 out of the water. It DOES work though. Just be careful.
I have a bad cyno out break and dosed chemiclean. It did not go away. No change at all. Could it be something else. You can blow it off with a power head. It’s a red/bright maroon color. Please help.
Another great way to prevent cyano bacteria to stay on the ground are sand sifting gobies. I had small problems with cyano bacteria on the substrate but since getting my diamond goby he moves all the substrate around all the time, so the sand is always clean.
Now that it's been months since using ChemiClean, I'm curious to know whether or not it worked long term. Have you had cyano return? Any ill effects noticed after having used it?
I just dosed ciprofloxacin in my tank after cleaning all the glass, and rocks. Turned my Ozone, Uv, and carbon systems on high. And than spot treated with hydrogen peroxide. While upping my dosing of bacteria. Turning my skimmer all the way up
I just used chemical clean and it killed 95% of the cyano but some did survive, everything in my tank survived but during treatment a lot of corals polyps were retracted more than usual
i am having issues with my phosphate: i am running GFO rowaphos also i am running phosguard. on test with hanna before water change it was 0.08 after water change it was 0.22 i am trying to keep it down to 0.03 that's a good range when it was 0.08 i just changed the rowaphos 500g, what should i do
I just noticed cyano in my CPR backpack on my 15g nano. Display tank shows no signs. NO3 at 25. Didn’t check PO4 yet. Been adding lots of nutrients for corals. Will be more diligent with water changes. Missed one change last week and it caught up to me. Doing 3g water change and scrapping pack walls now and one more tomorrow. Thanks for the info Sir.
how can i tell if its cyano or diatoms? I recently finished my cycle and the sand bed seems covered in a brown rusty colored growth. I cant vac it up as it sticks to the sand so bad its just starts clumping. I have plenty experience with fresh but this is my first reef.
I have my reef tank all set up, and haven’t gotten any fish, corals, or invertebrates, just an empty tank with everything needed for fish coral and invertebrates. However, I’m confused, is it normal to have received cyanobacteria with nothing in my tank yet? Does anyone have an answer?
Nuclear bomb good way too describe it just remember too turn off your skimmer for 24hr and make sure you have good circulation on your tank or use a air pump this thing will deplete the oxygen on the tank and it will stress your fishes.
Dont turn off your skimmer if its in the sump, just take the skimmate cup off and let it over flow in the sump with the gate valve turned all the way down. This way you keep your skimmers oxygenating potential running.
I have little specs of it on a colony Of zoas. I know it is not a nutrient issue and it’s hasn’t grown since in my tank but also has not gone away. How would you recommend I get rid of it?
Why am I getting red slime algae ? I have 2 tanks, one with 2 clowns & Zoas, feed the clown sparingly, the other tank NO fish, only Zoas, not fed, still get red slime algae in this tank too ?
You forgot one and I found this out by mistake. I had been battling a patch of cyano for a while. even chemiclean was only a temp fix. I happened to buy a blue tuxedo urchin one day while I was at my LFS. not even a whole day into the tank and he mowed through it ALL, he even got the stains off the rock, so theres always that option. I was always told nothing would eat it but I guess thats not the case.
This is the same as redslime remover. You just have to turn your skimmer off for 24 hrs to get the extra nutrients off the water before turning the skimmer on. After that do a water change.
Tidal Gardens - if you suck out the substrate, aren't you sucking out your substrate?? Are you putting the substrate back later after it dries out or just throwing it away? Aren't you eventually going to not have any substrate left?
the tank loses oxygen so adding air is necessary for the fish and inverts. Lots of different medications are like this and survivability of everything goes up with an air pump.
What about dinoflagellates? I've been fighting then for months and can keep them basically controlled but not completely gone. If you know a reliable way to get rid of them, you could really help a lot of people.
I used chemi clean it worked great within 2 days. I shut off my protein skimmer. added as per directions. after 48 hours I did a water change. 5 gallons for my 32 gallon bio cube. so far after 5 months it never returned.
It has to do with the redfield ratio (16:1). if the nitrate is way higher than phosphates (eg. 50:1), blue-green algae sets in while if the phosphate is way higher (1:1) then green hair algae sets in.
Doug C how much of it would you use in a 32 gallon tank ??? I have some that’s been sitting around I didn’t know would help I’ve been pulling this stuff out since day 2
I usually do water changes every 2 weeks on my biocube but now I’ve been doing it every weekend for the last 3 weeks can’t get rid of it on my sand grows back every day when lights turn on. I used carbon and phosguard for chemical filters. My main nutrient export is a large protein skimmer (reef octopus 1000 hob). Don’t really want to used chemi clean again because I’ve read that it kills beneficial bacteria. For flow all I have is a maxi-jet 1200 but it feel it’s enough for this small tank. Water parameters are all good Ph. 8.2, nitrate/nitrates 0, Ammonia 0 and phosphates 0. Not sure what else I could do was thinking about adding a sand sifting goby because I don’t want to stir sandbed myself.
I had a break out of cyano that I thought would go away on its own ,,,killed a few corals,,I hooked up a canister filter in my sump and a uv sterilizer at the very end of it,,,, crystal clear water always, no outbreaks of sickness between fish, within 3 days all cyano was gone , there is plenty of back and forth for uvs but for me it's essential on fresh or salt to have one.
I have a cyano breakout in my sump/refug right now. Over the course of a month from my last test my nitrates creeped up to almost 40. I was testing PO4 weekly and it was .03 or less every time so I assumed(that’s what I get) NO3 was good too I have done at least 5 20% water changes over the past 4 weeks. NO3 is now less than 10. Funny thing and the point to my story is the cyano didn’t happen until I got NO3 in check.
Great start of a series on battling with algae.... in fact I recently just reboot my 540l display tank because of Dino, and would love to hear your advice on that battle....
@@karennation3580 I am no expert, but ideally should really cure the rocks or use new ones, as you said everything in the tank could be infected; then again when you restart the tank will have to recycle again, meaning the conditions ref Nitrate and Phosphate will increase which normally not favourable for Dino to grow... Regardless for rebooting you will need another temporary tank to house your livestock in before the display is ready I would say.
The only thing that got rid of my cyano was using hd tin foil around the tank to prevent the light from coming in. Sure the lighting schedule is for only 8 hours but the sun was giving my tank 15 hours with of light!
Amblygobius phalaena is the way to get rid off cyanos...that goby is actively looking for cyanos....keep it simple and chem-free...but dont forget this fish needs a nice sized tank...
I work at a fish store and I keep reefs at home. Reefers have to much pride, with cyano issue, most costumers to take care of the problem naturally when they have a do or die issue, when chemi clean does the trick, in a jiffy.
You can use hydrogen peroxide on a freshwater tank and it does the exact same thing for a planted freshwater aquarium. So I wonder if that is like the powder form because it is the same amount of time about 48 hours and poof it is gone! And I use hydrogen peroxide as a plant dip before I put them In my tanks. I am just starting saltwater reefing now I have a real new tank in diatom bloom stage at the moment but I know some day I will face this issue for saltwater so I am arming myself self now with info this stuff is good to know.
I disagree with one of your first comments cyano and Dino have nothing to do with nutrients I have a nano 3 months old from the cycle phosphate is at .03 and nitrate is 0.00 and has been since since the tank finished the cycle tests taken with Hannah checkers and api test kits. It is a 100lt tank and I change 20 lt weekly the only thing that I can think that is out of balance is silicates as I found my rodi unit was pics them out and I have both cyano and Dino
is this chemiclean safe for inverts?? Thanks for sharing! Cyano has been my nemesis for over a year now. I found consistent 7-10 day 30% water changes and physically siphoning out the bacteria with a rodi tube has worked wonders. With controlled feedings cyano can be mitigated fairly well. I would try this chemiclean if it got really bad!
StraitClownin909 Chemiclean may annoy more sensitive corals, but my inverts have never had an issue with it. inverts that I've seen that dgaf about the Chemiclean: nems, shrimp, crabs, and sea stars (as well as GSP and zoas; my toadstools are so moody, it's hard to know what upsets them, aside from the turbulence of cleaning day).
Keep in mind..it says "red" slime. Not all cyano bacteria types. It seems to struggle with blue green in the fresh water aqauria. Look at the ads..for red slime chemiclean is $4. Ultra Life that says "blue green"? is a hefty $15 a bottle. I get the feeling Ultralife is more promising to killing off ALL bacterial spores where others...knock it back..but some survives.
Hi, biochemist here and worked as an aquatics specialist for a while. Chemiclean causes the water to become highly oxidized. Cyanobacteria is an obligate anaerobic bacteria. If it is exposed to high levels of oxygen it will prevent it from doing the respiration it needs to do. Your protein skimmer will also work overtime when chemiclean is applied because of the higher oxygen content in the water. This may help in nutrient export as well defeating Cyanobacteria.
Hi, stoned hobbyist here. Too much oxygen causes the red algae.? I have some on my live rock, would reducing the amount of oxygen help reduce it?
@@ivorwindybottom7364 🤣🤣
@@Sokom638 I have no recollection of posting that. Funny thing is, I'm stoned again.
@@jdamommio Thanks. Problem is no longer. Problem I have now is, lots of round things attached to the shop bought coral. They got tentacles and react to light, movement and food.
I was happy with a bristle worm, these things are ugly though.
Think I'll only use one bit of shop bought live rock in future set ups.
These rocks got too many extras.
Had a minor break of cyano and I can approve that Chemi-Clean does actually work! I was shocked like you haha!
Glad you are not afraid of bottled solutions. Consider trying Vibrant next. Keep up the good maintenance and great work.
I used vibrant for some hair algae and to rid the gunk building up in my return pump tube that would just not come out from normal cleaning. Workd like a charm then in marched the cyano. I have read this is pretty common. I think, just my thoughts and not backed by anything i have read, if the vibrant is killing off algae, the cyano is poised to get at nutrients faster. My nutrients are both undetectable at this point and I am still fighting the good fight against cyano. I may just go the chemical route and nuke the stuff. No amount of scrubbing, cleaning, or water changes has kept it from coming right back.
Extremely important point about pump flow dropping off. Clean your pumps!
I got rid of mine by keeping the lights out and changing my floss every two days and vacuuming the sand bed .... enjoyed this video you explained everything really well 😻
How long did you leave the lights out?
Was coral ok?
Wtf that’s crazy I’ve been struggling with red slime algae for 1 year!!!!! Thanks man I appreciate it!
U make so many faces when you talk and I really like it. Haha. Your so nice patience calm in explaining the right stuff. thanks.
I love how you put it It really is Just like weight loss! another awesome video Than!! Thanks for the constant inspiration, I study The gardens business plan everyday! Im getting closer to my dream ! THANK YOU! CANT WAIT TO MEET YOU!
Do you think excess nutrients is what causes Cyano? I did a good sandbed vaccum and have seen a bit of cyano on my rocks since then.. may have caused a mini cycle. On the plus side my tank has been getting bonus water changes as i suck it out :)
Chemo clean is great!!! It works but watch the skimmer when you turn it back on. I use a 3/4 ball valve on the skimmer intake just to add an extra control.
WOW... I battled the algae for ... years and couldn't get it to go away... that chemiclean is impressive.
Great Video as all your uploads tend to be, I do have one question for you to consider and possibly do a video on. What if the Algae outbreak is caused by the tank being Nitrate/Phosphate Limited. Where both are at or close to 0 and possible recovery options?
Thanks again for your continued content.
I like to polish the water occasionally. I've heard that one can blackout your tank for several days.Corals should be ok & fish don't care. Scrub before and after, do water change THEN keep changing a filter pad every couple days. This works for me. (Until I get lazy about it.)
you are correct. takes 2 weeks.
I agree,the reason is that people neglect clean the sand often and water changes and cleaning equipment.in good well maintained tanks with quality equipment we never see this problems because usually have superb water circulation and have less sand that should be, so is not room for this bad algaes to grow
Thank you Tidal.👍
You have to aerate your tank if you use that chemical. He REALLY should have mentioned that. It strips the O2 out of the water. It DOES work though. Just be careful.
chimeclean should be under every aquarium. It works great. Must follow direction and it will solve problem quick
I have a bad cyno out break and dosed chemiclean. It did not go away. No change at all. Could it be something else. You can blow it off with a power head. It’s a red/bright maroon color. Please help.
Another great way to prevent cyano bacteria to stay on the ground are sand sifting gobies. I had small problems with cyano bacteria on the substrate but since getting my diamond goby he moves all the substrate around all the time, so the sand is always clean.
"Red Slime Remover" works too, BUT it will regrow once it all dies out if you haven't addressed the root cause.
firebirdude2 b
Now that it's been months since using ChemiClean, I'm curious to know whether or not it worked long term. Have you had cyano return? Any ill effects noticed after having used it?
did that product lower phosphate levels? if the source still remains then what did it do? bandaid..
chemiclean did it for me. After 48 hours cyano has disappeared. Great Product.
I have some only on rocks for a couple months how do I get rid of it it doesn’t blow off it is stuck on
Yes it kills some of the good bacteria too, I tried it twice didn't work for me but others it did!!
I just dosed ciprofloxacin in my tank after cleaning all the glass, and rocks. Turned my Ozone, Uv, and carbon systems on high. And than spot treated with hydrogen peroxide. While upping my dosing of bacteria. Turning my skimmer all the way up
I just used chemical clean and it killed 95% of the cyano but some did survive, everything in my tank survived but during treatment a lot of corals polyps were retracted more than usual
i am having issues with my phosphate: i am running GFO rowaphos also i am running phosguard. on test with hanna before water change it was 0.08 after water change it was 0.22 i am trying to keep it down to 0.03 that's a good range when it was 0.08 i just changed the rowaphos 500g, what should i do
I just noticed cyano in my CPR backpack on my 15g nano. Display tank shows no signs.
NO3 at 25. Didn’t check PO4 yet. Been adding lots of nutrients for corals. Will be more diligent with water changes. Missed one change last week and it caught up to me. Doing 3g water change and scrapping pack walls now and one more tomorrow. Thanks for the info Sir.
Great tips, as usual, just music is so distracting. Nevertheless thanks for info!
Just get a few conches (Strombus alatus). They are great cyanobacteria vacuums
how can i tell if its cyano or diatoms? I recently finished my cycle and the sand bed seems covered in a brown rusty colored growth. I cant vac it up as it sticks to the sand so bad its just starts clumping. I have plenty experience with fresh but this is my first reef.
Great tips. I swear by polyfilter pads
I have my reef tank all set up, and haven’t gotten any fish, corals, or invertebrates, just an empty tank with everything needed for fish coral and invertebrates. However, I’m confused, is it normal to have received cyanobacteria with nothing in my tank yet? Does anyone have an answer?
Nuclear bomb good way too describe it just remember too turn off your skimmer for 24hr and make sure you have good circulation on your tank or use a air pump this thing will deplete the oxygen on the tank and it will stress your fishes.
Deplete oxygen because of mass death?
Dont turn off your skimmer if its in the sump, just take the skimmate cup off and let it over flow in the sump with the gate valve turned all the way down. This way you keep your skimmers oxygenating potential running.
Thank you Stan, very cool!
I have little specs of it on a colony Of zoas. I know it is not a nutrient issue and it’s hasn’t grown since in my tank but also has not gone away. How would you recommend I get rid of it?
Thank you, found the video helpful. You have become my go-to guy. Love all the helpful videos!
Why am I getting red slime algae ? I have 2 tanks, one with 2 clowns & Zoas, feed the clown sparingly, the other tank NO fish, only Zoas, not fed, still get red slime algae in this tank too ?
You forgot one and I found this out by mistake. I had been battling a patch of cyano for a while. even chemiclean was only a temp fix. I happened to buy a blue tuxedo urchin one day while I was at my LFS. not even a whole day into the tank and he mowed through it ALL, he even got the stains off the rock, so theres always that option. I was always told nothing would eat it but I guess thats not the case.
This is very true!
Great video! It just a reminder for me to stay on top of things.
This is the same as redslime remover. You just have to turn your skimmer off for 24 hrs to get the extra nutrients off the water before turning the skimmer on. After that do a water change.
Tidal Gardens - if you suck out the substrate, aren't you sucking out your substrate?? Are you putting the substrate back later after it dries out or just throwing it away? Aren't you eventually going to not have any substrate left?
Did you remove the fish and inverts when treating with chemiclean? Or leave them in? I know it says safe but I've heard if people nuking their tanks
the tank loses oxygen so adding air is necessary for the fish and inverts. Lots of different medications are like this and survivability of everything goes up with an air pump.
I gave up took out the corals and drop a GBU MOAB ! Then drain the entire system fill it back up again cut down on the lighting and dosing
Can you please tell me the name of that chemical you used in the tank to remove the red algae so I can buy some thank you I’ll be appreciate it
What if I have 0 nitrates but red slime is growing? What could that be?
That filter, you put in your tank or sump?
could it grow at the biopellet resedu what not is filterd out by the skimmer
What about dinoflagellates? I've been fighting then for months and can keep them basically controlled but not completely gone. If you know a reliable way to get rid of them, you could really help a lot of people.
what's does chemiclean to my macroalgae in the sump.. ???
Very instructive video thank you 😎
Just dealt with Cyano last week. Water changes and Chemiclean did the job.
I used chemi clean it worked great within 2 days. I shut off my protein skimmer. added as per directions.
after 48 hours I did a water change. 5 gallons for my 32 gallon
bio cube.
so far after 5 months it never returned.
I'm planning a mixed reef tank with just one SPS coral - either stylophora or bird's nest ❤
agreed! great video
omg thank you man !!! I so needed advice on cyano
Which was the last option name used for removing the algae
It has to do with the redfield ratio (16:1). if the nitrate is way higher than phosphates (eg. 50:1), blue-green algae sets in while if the phosphate is way higher (1:1) then green hair algae sets in.
Would these work in fresh water aquarium?!
How do you get rid of cyano and dynos together at the same time
I can vouch for chemiclean... amazing product...
Doug C how much of it would you use in a 32 gallon tank ??? I have some that’s been sitting around I didn’t know would help I’ve been pulling this stuff out since day 2
Doesn't stirring up the tank cause an Amonia or Nitrate spike?
I usually do water changes every 2 weeks on my biocube but now I’ve been doing it every weekend for the last 3 weeks can’t get rid of it on my sand grows back every day when lights turn on. I used carbon and phosguard for chemical filters. My main nutrient export is a large protein skimmer (reef octopus 1000 hob). Don’t really want to used chemi clean again because I’ve read that it kills beneficial bacteria. For flow all I have is a maxi-jet 1200 but it feel it’s enough for this small tank. Water parameters are all good Ph. 8.2, nitrate/nitrates 0, Ammonia 0 and phosphates 0. Not sure what else I could do was thinking about adding a sand sifting goby because I don’t want to stir sandbed myself.
Great video! Thanks
I had a break out of cyano that I thought would go away on its own ,,,killed a few corals,,I hooked up a canister filter in my sump and a uv sterilizer at the very end of it,,,, crystal clear water always, no outbreaks of sickness between fish, within 3 days all cyano was gone , there is plenty of back and forth for uvs but for me it's essential on fresh or salt to have one.
awesome dude! totally right on all parts!
Great video again! Can you do one on diatom? Why am still getting diatom in 3-4 year old reef tank?
how do you hook up the micron filter? Do they take up appt of space in the sump? thank you for the info you can send my way.
There are canister filters specially made to use micron filters like the one I showed.
But what if you use a hob filter and dont have a skimmer
How do I remove staghorn algae in my reef tank?
Pretty much describes my situation 😩
Thanks for the video.
I wish I'd known about Chemiclean! Thank you very much!
A 25% biweekly water change reduces the nutrients and helps with cyanobacteria problems.
Thanks for this video Tidal Gardens. Please do one now on Dinos.
I have a cyano breakout in my sump/refug right now.
Over the course of a month from my last test my nitrates creeped up to almost 40. I was testing PO4 weekly and it was .03 or less every time so I assumed(that’s what I get) NO3 was good too
I have done at least 5 20% water changes over the past 4 weeks. NO3 is now less than 10. Funny thing and the point to my story is the cyano didn’t happen until I got NO3 in check.
thank you for the video!
I hate those dinos- I have tried Dino X. removed filter socks siphoned out all sand and it went away in 30 days or so.
Great start of a series on battling with algae.... in fact I recently just reboot my 540l display tank because of Dino, and would love to hear your advice on that battle....
@@karennation3580 I am no expert, but ideally should really cure the rocks or use new ones, as you said everything in the tank could be infected; then again when you restart the tank will have to recycle again, meaning the conditions ref Nitrate and Phosphate will increase which normally not favourable for Dino to grow...
Regardless for rebooting you will need another temporary tank to house your livestock in before the display is ready I would say.
The only thing that got rid of my cyano was using hd tin foil around the tank to prevent the light from coming in. Sure the lighting schedule is for only 8 hours but the sun was giving my tank 15 hours with of light!
Very smart!
Great Videos ! I have diffrent question :) Where I can buy this 100 mic filter?
Amblygobius phalaena is the way to get rid off cyanos...that goby is actively looking for cyanos....keep it simple and chem-free...but dont forget this fish needs a nice sized tank...
Will the micron filter affect the salinity?
macro algae or saltwater plants can be another option for exporting phosphates and waste
What’s the name of the staff
What's the name of it?
Just used blue life cyano Rx fantastic all gone in 3 days dosed again on second day
I work at a fish store and I keep reefs at home. Reefers have to much pride, with cyano issue, most costumers to take care of the problem naturally when they have a do or die issue, when chemi clean does the trick, in a jiffy.
You can use hydrogen peroxide on a freshwater tank and it does the exact same thing for a planted freshwater aquarium. So I wonder if that is like the powder form because it is the same amount of time about 48 hours and poof it is gone! And I use hydrogen peroxide as a plant dip before I put them In my tanks. I am just starting saltwater reefing now I have a real new tank in diatom bloom stage at the moment but I know some day I will face this issue for saltwater so I am arming myself self now with info this stuff is good to know.
I disagree with one of your first comments cyano and Dino have nothing to do with nutrients I have a nano 3 months old from the cycle phosphate is at .03 and nitrate is 0.00 and has been since since the tank finished the cycle tests taken with Hannah checkers and api test kits. It is a 100lt tank and I change 20 lt weekly the only thing that I can think that is out of balance is silicates as I found my rodi unit was pics them out and I have both cyano and Dino
is this chemiclean safe for inverts?? Thanks for sharing! Cyano has been my nemesis for over a year now. I found consistent 7-10 day 30% water changes and physically siphoning out the bacteria with a rodi tube has worked wonders. With controlled feedings cyano can be mitigated fairly well. I would try this chemiclean if it got really bad!
StraitClownin909 Chemiclean may annoy more sensitive corals, but my inverts have never had an issue with it.
inverts that I've seen that dgaf about the Chemiclean: nems, shrimp, crabs, and sea stars (as well as GSP and zoas; my toadstools are so moody, it's hard to know what upsets them, aside from the turbulence of cleaning day).
Directly apply hydrogen peroxide while the tank is empty from a water change
Keep in mind..it says "red" slime. Not all cyano bacteria types. It seems to struggle with blue green in the fresh water aqauria. Look at the ads..for red slime chemiclean is $4. Ultra Life that says "blue green"? is a hefty $15 a bottle. I get the feeling Ultralife is more promising to killing off ALL bacterial spores where others...knock it back..but some survives.
Great Video
I used chemi clean years ago on a crashed system and had the same result the gha was not as easy. These days I'd just use Kent mag to kill gha.
Wow...that tank at 0:58 is a disaster...and I freak out when I see a little bit on a rock.
Than, the coral doctor!
I'm trying to grow some algae for algae eaters, snails, shrimp son in doing the opposite of what you said not to to
Can u make a video how to ged rid to brown jelly ??