Suggestion: Stagger the cuts where the new harness joins the existing harness so that the heat-shrink joints aren't all next to each other. IOW, space the "lumps" out over (say) 6" and use thinner wall heat-shrink tubing to better conceal all the splices. Makes for a neater job - no big blob in the completed harness. Also, "tin" the old wires before soldering to new wire; makes for a better connection. Plus, you could use solder type butt splices to connect the old, existing wire to the new wire; that works as good a "tinning" the old wires. Otherwise, one of the best auto wiring tutorials that I have seen on TH-cam.
Honestly thanks to you, after every single video I learn something new and dare to try new thing on my project. Just, thank you, and keep them coming!!
Personally I like the heat shrink butt connectors... Use those with the marine grade heat shrink tubing.. It has the extra urethane on the inside so that when it melts that connection ain't going nowhere! nice work though.. Greg👍
I agree Greg, I've never had any issues soldiering connections after I learned the right way. Also I've personally seen crimp connections add lots of resistance in a circuit. Especially when not done right, it's prone to corrosion. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
7 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Wiring vids are so fun to watch! :D When I did my Datsun, I used string to measure out lengths and gauge harness routing and thickness before using actual wire.
You make some of the best videos I have ever seen. I have a stock motor 1.8 an I doubt I will be doing any of this any time soon but I watch every video beginning to end as it is so satisfying to watch and very interesting. This stuff is great and I can't wait to refer to this in 5+ years when I do a huge turbo on my Miata 😂
So, this video is ancient and there’s really even no point in my mention here… BUT, here I am anyway. Just wanted to mention, on those crimp connectors that have the rubber seal, you should crimp the seal in the insulation crimp portion. That locks the seal to the wire and helps pull it all the way in and Sears it to create the actual seal. If you just push the seal in afterward, it doesn’t go in as deep, doesn’t get the inner seal, and has the possibility of walking out later on. Cheers Greg!!! Keep up the amazing work.
the second set of crimp, further up the wire is actually meant to crimp onto the rubber insulator as well. This holds the seal into the connector to help keep it water proof.
May I suggest a crimp improvement? At 6.50 Your stripped part of the wire is shorter than the crimp ears. If you lengthen the stripped portion slightly so when you crimp the wires protrude slightly out of the crimp, the ends in fresh air splay slightly, making it impossible for the wire to slide out, and also give you an indication that the wire is fully in the crimp. Also, the thin end of the rubber seal is meant to be positioned within the crimp ears that clamp onto the insulated part of the wire. This helps with strain relief and the rubber goes further in the plug back shell. If you dip the bared wires in "silicone grease" before you crimp they will never suffer corrosion problems any time in your lifetime. I then dip the whole crimp and rubber seal in the silicone grease before inserting it.Silicone grease is pretty much a grease version of WD40 as far as moisture is concerned.
This has become my favorite channel. Your videos always have good content and are well thought out. Been watching for a while but decided to comment on this one since I’m currently working on a custom engine harness. I’m beginning a J32 swap in my NA6! ;)
We did a sub harness like this for an E30 we raced at Lemons. Initials the car would shut down passed 3500 rpm. We spent days trying to work on the engine map and it didn't change a thing. On race day someone at the track suggested to shield the cables with insulation tape. We did and the car finally worked properly. We concluded the cables we used were somehow catching an interference which was strong enough to mess with the Megasquirt. So although it's unlikely you'll experience the same issue given the clean routing you're doing you may think about shielding your small cables if you are running into weird behaviors like we did.
When I finally get around to doing a big power BP based motor, these videos are going to be such a great resource and, honestly, a treat to re-watch. Love the quality of the vids and the info as always!
I have roll of solder that my dad used in the 80's. The stuff smokes out my work bench every time I use it but I've never had a bad solder connection using it.
I'm not surprised you're doing a couple of vids on the wiring. You're making (probably) the hardest part of a build so understandable. I've done a few engine swaps and getting the wiring right while being laid out neatly seems to take longer than all of the fab work. I always learn something new from your videos, I've been following for the passion more than the car itself. I'm really looking forward to seeing this thing on the road & strip though. 👍
When you are doing the second stage of the crimp for the injector connectors I think you are supposed to crimp the little weather seal thing in as well as the wire insulation.
You are a god. I too am currently doing my VVT swap, and you are beating me to each step I take by a few days. This will help me a ton with cleaning up my wiring this weekend!
No problem at all. I'm waiting on Fab9 COP's and that new Skunk2 Intake Manifold so I've got another week until I get everything together. Going to at least drop the motor in and wire the injector harness and VVT this weekend. Seriously though, I've said it before and I'll say it again: I honestly think you have the most well-produced, informative car channel on youtube. Keep it up!
I'm losing my shit for you Greg! I've recently taken to drifting the hell out of my NB2, and although it's possible, the lack of power kills me at times. I can't wait for your first start!
Good shit dude. If you want a better way to strip the wires in the middle, try using your regular strippers to cut the insulation on either side of where you want the joint, then cut across the middle of the two spots you just cut with a knife or razor blade. Then, you're just left one piece of insulation to take off, plus it looks cleaner. This is coming from a guy who wires boats for a living, which are similar to cars.
2 things: is your "master" hot wire for the injectors and vvt sensor ratedfor the current they will all draw? It seems a bit thin. (18 guage?) also I'm a big fan of the lineman splice for all things automotive. It's the strongest solder joint I know of, even the preferred method for NASA spacecraft
Things like wires or computer and electronics chips have always been intimidating and something that I know virtually nothing about at all and try to stay as far away from as possible. I just prefer to stick with the more mechanical aspect of things in general but this was still an interesting video that makes this stuff seem a little less complicated at the very least. I'm just glad that I have no current need to mess with the ECU or anything like that!
Props dude good vid. On the soldering just to nit pick: try just stripping both wires and make a J bend on each wire and hook/interlock and wind so both wires have some pull strength. Then solder and heat shrink over. A good solder joint will be a shiny so let it flow. Any sharp wires left from the weld just flatten out with a healthy squeeze from wiring pliers to prevent shorting out through any insulation wrap thereafter. Butting up wires head on is a recipe for disaster especially if not a perfect solder joint as it can easily pull apart or be cracked joint. Good move with finishing the harness w/corrugated tubing to make it clean and protected.
Thanks man! I used to solder up the wires just next to each other but I like the meshing of the strands a lot better. I'll definitely try the hooking too.
I always found stripping small areas of small wire easiest with the side of a soldering iron. Burns off the insulation but does nothing to the wire inside.
Great video! I agree, soldering is great along with crimping! I always tie them, then solder and wrap. Super informative video man, thanks! Did you go to school for this stuff, or you just good like that? lol. You said at the end it's easy stuff, while true, there are people just getting in to auto repair / building that dont know the skills or how to do it, or even seasoned DIYers like my self, nice refresher and Im able to improve my own technique by seeing yours! Im sure other people watch your videos and also do the same. :) Regardless man, great video. You are helping a ton of folks, plus the videos are entertaining and not boring!
Someday when I have the funds to fix my little NA up properly I may just send it to you with a few grand in the glovebox since you do better work than most professional shops I've been to
Hey Greg not sure if you like itbs or custom Fab but can you try to make a itb intake that works with your turbo. Obx makes a itb kit all you would need from there is someone to weld up a plenum. I want to see if it adds power vs a regular throttle
Impact-Vector Well, that's how it's set up from the factory, all 4 injectors get their power through one pin at the connector. Definitely something I'll keep an eye on though 👍
This is my concern too. Yep, that's how it's done in factory. But what's the current draw of each injector vs the current capacity of that single black wire (it looks thin, 18ga? vs factory is probably 14ga for that power feed). It'd suck if you get excessive voltage/amp drop and melt the wire or misfire an injector and start your build all over again! It's probably fine for now, but will it be fine forever?
Would love to see if you add how to use/ let ECU know that VVT is there etc. I have a VVT turbo in a 99 NB so the harness wasn't ever meant for a VVT engine. You made it look like I could add it, but no idea how to tell MS3 pro that it's there or what to do. So watching with interest as always
I'll probably cover that once I get to tuning. The MS3 just has a VVT duty cycle table, just like boost control. I haven't powered up the MS3 yet but I'm sure there's just a menu for VVT to turn it on and off.
TheCarPassionChannel Lovely :) Don't worry if not, I know you can't possibly cover everything. I never knew it was power and a signal. When it's light outside in tempted to go check my loom and main connectors to see how they look;
I finally braved loading MS up on the laptop and connecting it to the ECU for the first time. Nothing happened like losing my map etc (like I thought it may have). It's a lot easier to see once it's in front of you. I had looked around online through all the older forums of people talking about it. I definitely don't think I will venture into it yet. Seems a lot to get wrong with the PID settings etc
Did you have any issues with getting the solder to go into the stock miata wiring? Some of mine when wiring in my COP would not take solder to save my life! Great video keep them coming!
Crimping is definitely better, who doesn't get a little moist when you make up a perfect crimp. Soldering is probably more acceptable in a totally dry climate like you have too
Yo Greg, a question completely unrelated to this video. What was the single clutch flywheel setup you mentioned in a previous video? You said it weighed about 23 pounds?
TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for the the tip. Should I get megasquirt before I Turbo? Thanks for responding to my comments been watching you're videos since I bought my car
Anyone know where to get the molex pins, I have a crimp tool for Molex pins but I would like some pins in stock for work when wires are corroded, I usually end up recycling the original pin after bending it out with pliers but I want to start doing it properly. Edit: Uk Stock...
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
I just came here to get some guidance on tucking my 91, v6 Camaro. It's my lucky day.
Lol. douche car, bruh
funkingitup haha that made me LMAO
Fab9Tuning.com lmfao
I googled the phrase "clean as fuuuuuck" and your wiring harness showed up.
15/10
Suggestion: Stagger the cuts where the new harness joins the existing harness so that the heat-shrink joints aren't all next to each other. IOW, space the "lumps" out over (say) 6" and use thinner wall heat-shrink tubing to better conceal all the splices. Makes for a neater job - no big blob in the completed harness.
Also, "tin" the old wires before soldering to new wire; makes for a better connection. Plus, you could use solder type butt splices to connect the old, existing wire to the new wire; that works as good a "tinning" the old wires.
Otherwise, one of the best auto wiring tutorials that I have seen on TH-cam.
Honestly thanks to you, after every single video I learn something new and dare to try new thing on my project. Just, thank you, and keep them coming!!
yes! I couldn't agree more!
Soldering is great, I once put in a cd player by just twisting and using cling wrap on the wires
Dfekt Nsc cling wrap? Did it work?
Personally I like the heat shrink butt connectors... Use those with the marine grade heat shrink tubing.. It has the extra urethane on the inside so that when it melts that connection ain't going nowhere! nice work though.. Greg👍
Your broke the info down into very manageable sections. Well done!
Feels like forever... So good to see an upload!
I agree Greg, I've never had any issues soldiering connections after I learned the right way. Also I've personally seen crimp connections add lots of resistance in a circuit. Especially when not done right, it's prone to corrosion. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Wiring vids are so fun to watch! :D When I did my Datsun, I used string to measure out lengths and gauge harness routing and thickness before using actual wire.
You make some of the best videos I have ever seen. I have a stock motor 1.8 an I doubt I will be doing any of this any time soon but I watch every video beginning to end as it is so satisfying to watch and very interesting. This stuff is great and I can't wait to refer to this in 5+ years when I do a huge turbo on my Miata 😂
James Zanghi I don't own a miata and watch this channel. Its great info. Thanks
So, this video is ancient and there’s really even no point in my mention here…
BUT, here I am anyway.
Just wanted to mention, on those crimp connectors that have the rubber seal, you should crimp the seal in the insulation crimp portion. That locks the seal to the wire and helps pull it all the way in and Sears it to create the actual seal. If you just push the seal in afterward, it doesn’t go in as deep, doesn’t get the inner seal, and has the possibility of walking out later on.
Cheers Greg!!! Keep up the amazing work.
the second set of crimp, further up the wire is actually meant to crimp onto the rubber insulator as well. This holds the seal into the connector to help keep it water proof.
May I suggest a crimp improvement? At 6.50 Your stripped part of the wire is shorter than the crimp ears. If you lengthen the stripped portion slightly so when you crimp the wires protrude slightly out of the crimp, the ends in fresh air splay slightly, making it impossible for the wire to slide out, and also give you an indication that the wire is fully in the crimp. Also, the thin end of the rubber seal is meant to be positioned within the crimp ears that clamp onto the insulated part of the wire. This helps with strain relief and the rubber goes further in the plug back shell.
If you dip the bared wires in "silicone grease" before you crimp they will never suffer corrosion problems any time in your lifetime. I then dip the whole crimp and rubber seal in the silicone grease before inserting it.Silicone grease is pretty much a grease version of WD40 as far as moisture is concerned.
Dude... your stuff is the best Miata content on the service... well done.
This has become my favorite channel. Your videos always have good content and are well thought out. Been watching for a while but decided to comment on this one since I’m currently working on a custom engine harness. I’m beginning a J32 swap in my NA6! ;)
We did a sub harness like this for an E30 we raced at Lemons. Initials the car would shut down passed 3500 rpm. We spent days trying to work on the engine map and it didn't change a thing. On race day someone at the track suggested to shield the cables with insulation tape. We did and the car finally worked properly. We concluded the cables we used were somehow catching an interference which was strong enough to mess with the Megasquirt. So although it's unlikely you'll experience the same issue given the clean routing you're doing you may think about shielding your small cables if you are running into weird behaviors like we did.
When I finally get around to doing a big power BP based motor, these videos are going to be such a great resource and, honestly, a treat to re-watch. Love the quality of the vids and the info as always!
Thanks Greg! Great video, making me want to do a lot more on my '90 1.6 mx5. Now doing a/c and pas delete. Keep up the great work!
Thank god I come home from work and I have the best channel to relax to pop up on my phone :)
I was going to bed early today. but then i watched all the miata vids. Great job man, really amazed at how the car evolved over the last years.
as far as soldering goes... just make sure you use leaded solder. Its the non-leaded stuff you have to worry about.
bcredeur97 Oh yeah I always use the good old cancer spool. That other just is like trying to solder with melted down coke cans
TheCarPassionChannel plus unleaded, rohs-rated solder, cracks and gives cold solder joints VERY soon
I have roll of solder that my dad used in the 80's. The stuff smokes out my work bench every time I use it but I've never had a bad solder connection using it.
I'm not surprised you're doing a couple of vids on the wiring. You're making (probably) the hardest part of a build so understandable.
I've done a few engine swaps and getting the wiring right while being laid out neatly seems to take longer than all of the fab work.
I always learn something new from your videos, I've been following for the passion more than the car itself. I'm really looking forward to seeing this thing on the road & strip though. 👍
So damn close to finishing! I just picked up a bunch of turbo goodies from Lars at MKTurbo today to start boosting Mia!
When you are doing the second stage of the crimp for the injector connectors I think you are supposed to crimp the little weather seal thing in as well as the wire insulation.
This build is unreal so detailed makes me want a project car even more than I already do!
You are a god. I too am currently doing my VVT swap, and you are beating me to each step I take by a few days. This will help me a ton with cleaning up my wiring this weekend!
xampx2k7 You may want to wait for part 2, I'm doing my best to drop it Saturday morning. TONS of VVT swap details.
No problem at all. I'm waiting on Fab9 COP's and that new Skunk2 Intake Manifold so I've got another week until I get everything together. Going to at least drop the motor in and wire the injector harness and VVT this weekend. Seriously though, I've said it before and I'll say it again: I honestly think you have the most well-produced, informative car channel on youtube. Keep it up!
The green seal is supposed to go inside the longer tangs.
I'm losing my shit for you Greg!
I've recently taken to drifting the hell out of my NB2, and although it's possible, the lack of power kills me at times. I can't wait for your first start!
That first "Chunky beats" drop in the background music scarred the shit out of me lol.
Good shit dude. If you want a better way to strip the wires in the middle, try using your regular strippers to cut the insulation on either side of where you want the joint, then cut across the middle of the two spots you just cut with a knife or razor blade. Then, you're just left one piece of insulation to take off, plus it looks cleaner. This is coming from a guy who wires boats for a living, which are similar to cars.
2 things: is your "master" hot wire for the injectors and vvt sensor ratedfor the current they will all draw? It seems a bit thin. (18 guage?) also I'm a big fan of the lineman splice for all things automotive. It's the strongest solder joint I know of, even the preferred method for NASA spacecraft
Can't wait to see this on the road. Good Luck Mate.
..soldering is not good! !!
..if not done properly ;)
I do this for a living, build harnesses for the motorsport industry.. won't be waterproof but I approve Greg. 😎
Things like wires or computer and electronics chips have always been intimidating and something that I know virtually nothing about at all and try to stay as far away from as possible. I just prefer to stick with the more mechanical aspect of things in general but this was still an interesting video that makes this stuff seem a little less complicated at the very least. I'm just glad that I have no current need to mess with the ECU or anything like that!
Props dude good vid. On the soldering just to nit pick: try just stripping both wires and make a J bend on each wire and hook/interlock and wind so both wires have some pull strength. Then solder and heat shrink over. A good solder joint will be a shiny so let it flow. Any sharp wires left from the weld just flatten out with a healthy squeeze from wiring pliers to prevent shorting out through any insulation wrap thereafter. Butting up wires head on is a recipe for disaster especially if not a perfect solder joint as it can easily pull apart or be cracked joint. Good move with finishing the harness w/corrugated tubing to make it clean and protected.
Thanks man! I used to solder up the wires just next to each other but I like the meshing of the strands a lot better. I'll definitely try the hooking too.
Love the videos, Greg. Keep up the good work!
Get some a cheap wire stripper.. as it can expose the wire like u were doing with the blade in like 2 seconds.
When he's stripping the ends he uses the stripper, when he uses a razor, it' because it's on the middle of a wire.
I have been looking at your channel daily since the last video waiting for this one.
Please more often! Your videos are awesome!
That second crimp section is for the seal so the seal won't slide away from the terminal.
Greg your videos are super helpful
Just a tip for soldering uses a linemans splice. I've used those as long as I can remember and never had one fail. 🤙 love the vids broham
I just really can’t wait to see it run
I always found stripping small areas of small wire easiest with the side of a soldering iron. Burns off the insulation but does nothing to the wire inside.
We need more vids
I love the quality of your videos so much I could watch you for hours
Great video! I agree, soldering is great along with crimping! I always tie them, then solder and wrap. Super informative video man, thanks! Did you go to school for this stuff, or you just good like that? lol. You said at the end it's easy stuff, while true, there are people just getting in to auto repair / building that dont know the skills or how to do it, or even seasoned DIYers like my self, nice refresher and Im able to improve my own technique by seeing yours! Im sure other people watch your videos and also do the same. :)
Regardless man, great video. You are helping a ton of folks, plus the videos are entertaining and not boring!
hi, hope you checked the wires before and after everything is done using an ohmmeter. can't wait for the next vid.
Props to Greg for giving Miata owners no excuse to not modify their car 😂
Great video. You’ve shown some good wiring practices here, love it
Came here to get some advice on my Mazdaspeed. Luv you Miata dad 👨🏻
Yeahhh I couldn't wait for more time!!
Can't wait to see this thing on the road!! Keep up the good work.
Someday when I have the funds to fix my little NA up properly I may just send it to you with a few grand in the glovebox since you do better work than most professional shops I've been to
great video greg! i prolly wont be soldering anytime soon, but it was fun to watch. thanks for putting it together!
ps: i did finally put in a roll bar in my nb1, watched your how-to video like 10x's
Hey Greg not sure if you like itbs or custom Fab but can you try to make a itb intake that works with your turbo. Obx makes a itb kit all you would need from there is someone to weld up a plenum. I want to see if it adds power vs a regular throttle
It's not how I would wire a loom but it will work, so fair play.
Short tip: you should thin both wire ends before soldering them together!
Love your videos.
I'm a bit concerned with a single power wire thru the connector. Might melt if everything is pulling hard!
Impact-Vector Well, that's how it's set up from the factory, all 4 injectors get their power through one pin at the connector. Definitely something I'll keep an eye on though 👍
This is my concern too. Yep, that's how it's done in factory. But what's the current draw of each injector vs the current capacity of that single black wire (it looks thin, 18ga? vs factory is probably 14ga for that power feed). It'd suck if you get excessive voltage/amp drop and melt the wire or misfire an injector and start your build all over again!
It's probably fine for now, but will it be fine forever?
www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/
I don't think it'll be a problem
Awesome man thank you for that chart.
Would love to see if you add how to use/ let ECU know that VVT is there etc. I have a VVT turbo in a 99 NB so the harness wasn't ever meant for a VVT engine.
You made it look like I could add it, but no idea how to tell MS3 pro that it's there or what to do. So watching with interest as always
I'll probably cover that once I get to tuning. The MS3 just has a VVT duty cycle table, just like boost control. I haven't powered up the MS3 yet but I'm sure there's just a menu for VVT to turn it on and off.
TheCarPassionChannel Lovely :) Don't worry if not, I know you can't possibly cover everything. I never knew it was power and a signal. When it's light outside in tempted to go check my loom and main connectors to see how they look;
I finally braved loading MS up on the laptop and connecting it to the ECU for the first time. Nothing happened like losing my map etc (like I thought it may have). It's a lot easier to see once it's in front of you. I had looked around online through all the older forums of people talking about it. I definitely don't think I will venture into it yet. Seems a lot to get wrong with the PID settings etc
Did you have any issues with getting the solder to go into the stock miata wiring? Some of mine when wiring in my COP would not take solder to save my life! Great video keep them coming!
Not with enough heat. I have definitely had problems with 20+ year old harnesses before though, such a pain
The electabuzz tho 😁👌
Love your videos man. Saw you at MRLS but you seemed busy.
16min vid oh boy dis gun be good
Mad it look so easy i want to go clean up my factory harness now smh, thank greg
did you try to stick to the same gauge wire as the factory wiring? I think I remember it matters as far as heat goes?
I love you Cregg, you put out the best content
HES BACK!!!!!!
Great video as always, Greg
the 93' california emissions has sequential fueling. all other 1.6's are batch. you're welcome :)
I like it! Clean & seem less install. The little details though 👍👍👏!
Great job Greg!
I stayed late at work, I got the notification, couldn't wait. Wonder if I will get paid overtime?
What I've been waiting for!
"Nice you built this engine?"
"No, I mean I BUILT this engine. Down to the wiring harness myself."
I'm all about that built not bought life
I have a pressing question , what are you going to do about your tachometer?
This looks really good!
Crimping is definitely better, who doesn't get a little moist when you make up a perfect crimp. Soldering is probably more acceptable in a totally dry climate like you have too
Yo Greg, a question completely unrelated to this video. What was the single clutch flywheel setup you mentioned in a previous video? You said it weighed about 23 pounds?
ACT Xtreme 6-puck and a Fidanza 1.8L flywheel
Solder is what i always do for my connections!! Most ppl dont know how to solder😳😳👍✌
I legion hoards need more Megasquirt tuning tutorials when the time doth cometh brocycle
Using the same color wires makes it harder to troubleshoot electrical problems later
Greg the man!
Damn near crapped my pants cause I thought this was the LS coil vid... I’ll just clean that up and work on my 91 v6 Camaro
Hey! fab9tuning! bro! I'm trying to do the same thing on my 92 camaro! you got any answers?
Hello I just subscribed to your Channel just wondering what was your first Mod on your Miata
+KILLER_BRO_EMPIRE ITS ME Roll bar 👍
TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for the the tip. Should I get megasquirt before I Turbo? Thanks for responding to my comments been watching you're videos since I bought my car
Awesome work.
Anyone know where to get the molex pins, I have a crimp tool for Molex pins but I would like some pins in stock for work when wires are corroded, I usually end up recycling the original pin after bending it out with pliers but I want to start doing it properly. Edit: Uk Stock...
Y u no use proper heat resistant wrapping?
We choose to modify Miatas in this dikade not because it is easy, but because it is haad.
Yes!
Perfect timing thanks!!
Look amazing man!
Thanks bro!!
You know what, I think I will go crimp something.
yay!!!!!!!!!!
Please I need help, not exactly related to this topic of the video but can I email you to speak more specifically? It’s in my 1990 miata Na stock
what guage of wire did you use?