Calibrating eSteps For Frustrated Beginners
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ธ.ค. 2022
- Over extruding? Under extruding? This semi-quick video will demonstrate how to properly calibrate your 3D Printer eSteps and explain why it is necessary if you want to make amazing 3D Prints and step up your quality to the next level.
Printable eStep Tool & Instructions
www.printables.com/model/3522... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Imagine how many people are wasting days because they don’t know about this. Your info just gets better every day. Thanks for this
I like the way you think!!! Thanks for the kind words and thank you very much for watching!
I’m glad I found your channel, looking forward to more content!
I watched another video on how to do this and it worked but this method is much more simple. Well done.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Howdy again pard'...once again your videos are great. My slicers of choice are Orca Slicer and Simplfy3D so I almost always have to 'adjust' a wee bit for those who use other slicers...this video was a good one to revisit. Thanks again for taking the time. BTW, I like the T shirt.
Can you extrude another 100 mm and show us how it turned out after calibrating? Also, thank you very much for this information! I'm going to try this out this weekend in addition to some of the other calibrations you recommend.
Useful. Thanks for posting.
a game changer tool...!
thanks!
Wow, great information. I just got my Ender 3 V2 Neo a few weeks ago. After going through all of your videos earlier, I printed the eStep Calibration Tool and tested it. My original length was 92.3mm, the steps per mm was set at 93. I ran the calculations and entered the new # (100.8). Ran the test again, it was much closer @ 99.56mm. Recalculated the new number, entered it (101mm) and ran the test again. Final number 100.05mm!
All of my prints have been coming out the way I expected, so I didn't suspect that anything was off. I'm on to the next video to do some more testing.
Awesome! I’m hoping they’re helping and thanks for watching!
Subbed Thank you jsut getting itno the hobby and have my own Ender 3 now so I'm looking up good-to-know things.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the sub! My videos are aimed at people who are just getting started. I'm glad you found me and happy to have you as a sub!
Thats a wonderful tool i used to bullseye calibrate extruder steps
Awesome! Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Giving 3D printing a second try. Pulled the Ender out of storage after quickly losing interest a few years ago. The prints were never any good. I didn't do any calibration on the machine back then. Will work with your calibration and slicer tutorial videos this time around. Thanks
How would someone do this on a direct drive setup?
Good video wich good info 😊
A good thing to know is that if you use a ruler than a rule for measuring. Then you will also get inaccurate measurments
Many people don't know that a ruler is not a calibrated instrument but a rule is
Meaning just like tape measures is that unless it is a calibrated instrument you can get an accurate measurement
So bare that in mind
And just to say that I have found many measuring rulers and tape measures of cheap products that are millimeters out even cheap calibration vernier tools to
So buy your products from proper tool companies.
that's a nice tool fr fr
Simple & effective! I still haven't come up with one for direct drive setups yet! Thanks for watching!
How about those of us with the Ender 3 s1? Direct drive extruder.
For drirect drive, ufortunatley you'll need the to use the metric ruler and a sharpie method. Measure off 100mm on your filament from where it enters the extruder and mark it with a sharpy. The thinner, the better you still need to be able to see it. Next measure off 120mm of filament from the where it enters the extruder and place a mark as well. Have your printer extrude 100mm of filament out. If your first mark (100mm) is now at the entrance of the extruder, you're good with your esteps. If it's above, then you're under extruding. You would then measure the distance from the extruder opening to your mark. So example purpose, say you measure 7mm from the extruder entrance to your first mark, you are actually extruding 97mm. On the otherhand, if your first mmark is completly gone and inside of the extruder, then you're over extruding. So measure from the extruder entrance to the second mark you made on your filament. For exammple if that measurement is 15mm. Then that means 5mm (20-15=5), of filament was fed down into the extruder. So add that 5mm to the original 100mm meaning that you are actually actually extruding 105mm of filament when your printer is trying to extrude 100mm. On the Ender3 S1, I'm not sure if it is just the S1 Pro or not, but you can access the extruder steps from the menu under Settings, ADV.Set.>Movement>TX Rto>E TX Rto This will allow you to retrieve your current eStep information and set your new calculated value. NOTE: I don't have an Ender 3 S1 to confirm those menu options. I hope this helps!!!!
Couldn’t you remove the nozzle and replace it with a short length of boden tube, then use the end of the tube as a reference point to snip the filament?
@@mikek1618 That sounds like a good idea! But after removing the nozzle, couldn’t you just use the bottom face of the heat block to get a flush cut?
How can I do this on a anycubic vyper? I don’t have these options.
I'm not real familar with the AnyCubic so I am going to assume that it is a bowden setup, it has a USB port and that it's running Marlin firmware. You'll need Pronterface, a free download and make a connection via USB to your printer. You can still heat up your hot end and disconnect the bowden tube.
In pronterface, enter the line M503 and look for your current eStep value. The line will look something like M92 X0.00 Y0.00 Z240.00 E93.00. You're looking for the E value, in this case 93.00. Write it down. Cut the filament flush as shown in the video. Next, enter G1 E100 F50. This will extrude what your printer believes it 100mm of filament. Use the eStick as described in the video to get the length of how much filament came out of your extruder. Use the math formula as shown in the video to calculate your new esteps. To enter the new value to your printer, enter M92 Exx.xx where the "xx.xx" represents your newly calculated estep value. The final step is to enter M500 to save this value to your printer. And that's it. I hope this helped. Thanks for watching.
Awesome. That worked. And I adjusted it. Thanks. On to your next video!!
@@pushingplastic7445 Thank you for explaining, this also helped me too.
You can't do it this way on Anycubic printers, there is no settings access like the Enders, please can you show how to calibrate E steps on Anycubic machines
Knowing your original E steps (maybe 100, 400 or 500) and If firmware is Marlin flavor try M92 EXXX.XX where XXX.XX= (original E steps x new factor) on beginin of gcode file.
Why heat up the nozzle ? 🤔
The printer won't push filament through the extruder if it is not heated even though you aren't pushing it through the nozzle.
@@pushingplastic7445 i noticed that 🤣😂
And would you also advise to check the steps when pushing it thru the nozzle ? ?
@@frits183 I wouldn't. Esteps is for material being pushed through the extruder, but your flow rate is dependent on what's coming out of the nozzle. I do my esteps first, then set my flow rate afterward.
@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks for making it clear to me 🙏
@@frits183 No problem, thanks for watching!
Go easy with calling people Morons.
The thing about extrusion is that it's what comes out of the nozzle which defines accurate flow.
For a particular extruder E-steps will be a constant depending largely on the machining tolerances of the gear(s) and any associated idler roller.
By calibrating e-steps you just guarantee that a 1mm feed request pushes 1mm of filament through the extruder. It says nothing about the effects of slop in the Bowden Tube (which has an effect on total extruded length and retraction length) or resistance in the hotend assembly due to a particular temperature and extrusion speed setting.
My preferred method is to use the designated e-steps for the motor and gearing of the extruder assembly be that 93 or 415 for common types of extruder.
Calibrating material diameter and flow multiplier in the slicer is where you want to handle material differences and this is important.
By using a constant for the extruder E-steps and calibrating the material diameter and flow rate you are able to compare the flow performance of materials where it matters, at the nozzle.
Using this method, which I have for the last 10 years, you gain an insight into the performance of your printer. My flow rate multiplier using this method is typically 0.975 (97.5%) which largely compensates for material swell when you have determined the optimum printing temperature for the material to reduce thermal resistance in the hotend (which you can assess by the amount of material ooze from the nozzle at the end of a print - on a well adjusted printer it should be minimal).
I literally almost threw away a 400 dollar printer because of this
Did the video help?
@@pushingplastic7445 saved my printer and my pockets thank you!!!!🙏🏼
@@pushingplastic7445I actually used a good old fashioned wooden ruler. Nothing fancy
@@jdakid156 Old School! Awesome!
Stop calling me a moron
Not you, I’m sure you calibrated your esteps!