Just the way I like it ... Professional Job, High Quality, Strong Camper ... , no compromise, everything on the Highest Level. A pleasure to watch your professional job, and your amazing project.
Loving the videos, found today and quickly catching up, I intend on building a slide on/lift off camper for a mog, so will require structural frame, but like the idea of these panels.
I want to build a camper van on an old 75' Chevy 1 ton truck chassis, it's a 166 inch wheelbase which is larger than most and used primarily by the farmer or commercial application but occasionally an RV was made and it was very retro and nostalgic .. even if i use older materials on the outside, it should be a great unit
Great minds think alike apparently, I made my truck box out of 50mm cool room panels and did similar tests of the glue and rivets, I ended up using sikaflex pro + which is good but has a WAY longer cure time than the 3 days they claim. Have you noticed thermal bridging with those corner connectors? I used regular angled alloy to prevent it yet still notice it gets hotter inside that out from the steel gathering the heat.
Yeah it deff bridges - am working a way around it. I thought about both ways and decided that the corner connectors would be stronger and there is a way to deal with the thermal bridging.
@@brendontait6968 Definitely stronger but its getting hot and even my truck gets hotter than outside because of the steel even without bridging, if I had my time again I would have used fibre glass panels..
What size and style rivets do you recommend bro ? I’m still trying to figure that and which poly adhesive to buy that Bunnings or anyone in Australia stocks
@@unbr3akablonsoundcloud-tx6co I used the biggest regular 4.8mm alloy rivets, they go on sale at Bunnings for $20 a box of a 1000 sometimes. Skikaflex pro + is all you need usually but it depends on what surfaces your sticking.
@jedics1 I’ve got a 47 year old camper trailer I’ve stripped to bare metal, rust treated, and coated all over with chassis black. I’m wondering if I should sand back the contact points where the frame meets panel / channels . I don’t know how the bitumenous paint will hold to the panel
The sicaflex was so neat when you put tape down each side. I have never seen that before. So clever. Looks great. How sturdy will it be on the open road?
I thought everyone knew the tape thing. There are some cooler ways I'll prolly show later on. As far as the open road goes, at some point it will be solid as, however currently I'm fairly certain that it would fly off the back in pieces. tbc...
Yeah, I don't rate it at all. Overpriced, customer service is rubbish, sellys armorflex is nearly twice as strong in tests I've done and less than half the price.
I'm using Selley's Armourflex as an adhesive and seam sealer to fix an aluminium pontoon deck to the aluminium deck frame (in conjunction with rivet nuts and 316 stainless steel bolts). Glad to hear you rate it over Sikaflex.
Thanks, I've had a lot of other projects on and haven't been able to get much done on it. However, summer is coming... so am going to get back onto it!
I would use Polyesther fiberglass matts glued on top (with epoxy) of your box to seal everything and strengthen the structure. Maybe cut out the windows and sunroof first. I really amazed this is possible with standard panels like that, good project.
Hey Robbert. Are you meaning just fiberglassing the top? I'd be against that due to differential expansion of rigid materials bonded directly ontop of each other may cause delamination.
Raptor costing the entire exterior should be fine shouldn’t it ? It’s a polyurethane product . If it made contact with the poly adhesive I’m not sure though ? My original plan was to spray as close as I can to the edges and angle would hide where I didn’t want the paint to meet the adhesive. Because my panels are being installed lengthways (2 x 2550 x1980) only an extra piece of flashing would neeed to run along the centre where the panels connect . Interest to know your thoughts Cheers mate !
I investigated raptor, it couldn't be applied as thick as rhino and apparently not as UV stable. Either would be fine on styrene, however... there is none exposed.
@brendontait6968 So rhino would be the go on polyurethane ?once all angles ,extrusion etc installed just prime with an epoxy and coat with rhino ? Cheers mate !
Haven’t thought to use a sandwich made of styrofoam and fibreglass? I know it’s really efficient in terms of isolation and also it does not absorb water which is a big plus!!! And another question... I was thinking to build an external frame similar to the container one to make it more robust and more easily detachable from the truck... any thoughts about it? Anyway thank you very much for your videos... they are a very precious source of information!!!
Hey Stefano, I did consider it. Everything has it's pros and cons. I want a rugged, solid truck. A steel shell will cope much better from a lightning strike than fiberglass one, I have an old fibreglass/foam shipping container that is waterlogged - when fiberglass gets a decent hit, it can crack which can lead to water ingress whereas steel generally dents. Mostly, I'm cautious about outgassing from fiberglass resins, I'm wanting the interior to be as fume free as possible (this is something I'll dip into heavily in the future) the steel has an oven baked enamel which is likely to gas significantly less than fiberglass. Plenty of people make detachable shells and it works for them, I wanted to make a shell that was more integrated with the truck, there are benefits to this... lower insurance, registration fees, also can make things like a passthrough easier.
Love the work bud , Is that a standard circular saw or a cold cut saw ? What kind of blade are you using ? I’d have to buy a cheaper option saw for my project , any advice would be appreciated, cheers mate !
hi mate . i saw one of your earlier videos where you were going to use a big Tee shaped extrusion around the bottom of the box , dont suppose you can identify who supplies that ? I cant find any suppliers who carry the extrusion.
I have only done a couple of thousand km since with maybe 100km on bumpy roads/tracks. I was cautious of that going into it and found that the polyiso and polyurethane foams are much more rigid and likely to delaminate than the EPS. I haven't seen any sign of delamination yet.
i made a little camper out of fridge panels with a similar system and regret the thermal bridging that the aluminium cause.i have worked hard to fix this with aluminium angle instead of extruded joiners and 45deg miter joins this is important especially for summer weather
I dont think covering it will work very well as both inside and outside skins are connected. I guess with your giant battery pack and large size room and mild climate you can use ac to solve it.
Hey mate. Very interested in the build. Have learnt a lot from all your videos. I have a few questions please. How much did the boxing cost? Iv emailed metalcraft but haven’t gotten a reply. How do you fix cabinetry and interior bits? I was thinking about glass composite panel over the cool room panel, however I feel it will be much more expensive. If you don’t mind, how much do you think it’s cost without the crap sika failure? Must have been very sad after all that work, thanks very much for finding that out for everyone. Love the build and really hoping for some more videos. I just bought an aus army technical manual on trade me. Lots of mog info. I could scan and send if you’re interested as a thanks for your awesome videos.
Thanks Matthew, yeah a copy of it would be amazing. Msg me on insta. Any interior stuff could be fastened by a piece of L section aluminium and glue, double sided tape (vhb style) or rivets. You can just buy composite foam panel if that's what you are after. I prefer steel because it dents if hit rather than splits. It is also more resistant to lightening strikes. The box cost me about NZD $3,000 to build. I'm going to start working on putting another video together this weekend so should get it out shortly.
Yooooo where did you get that extrusion and what is it called! I can't find it for the life of me. I'm not even worried about thermal isolation either. I'd love to have the composite version of this stuff that a couple panel manufacturers sell but that's not available either.
Hi man, I discovered your work via your videos that are great, you do great work and live Unimog 👍 . I have two questions for you if you don’t mind I have the same project as you (setting up a refrigeration cell on an Unimog) I wanted to know which panels you took for the construction of your cell (with or without sheet metal coating) and that it glue used you to glue the different panels? My second question concerns the interior design, how would you fix furniture in height? I would like to gain space make a hanging bed and put furniture in height but I am afraid to tear the panels by fixing them on... if you could help me I would be grateful In advance thank you Florian
Hey, I used the panels with sheetmetal. I made sure to use polystyrene core instead of polyiso. Polyiso has a habit of delaminating since it is more rigid than styrene. The glues I recommend are the silane terminated polymers (hybrid) or polyurethane adhesive sealants. Wit regard to fixing... I was also going to do a dropdown bed. I think the key is spreading the load over a large area. In my version, I was going to mount to the ali section that is in the corners with some other ali section to thicken it. It seems pretty good as long as you dont have point loads on it. Have a look at how I mounted the pillow bearings on the door frame. I used an ali section that was longer than the bearings. Although this was mounted on the door frame, without the long section the loads were liable to flex the panels and frame. Obviously areas that needed a solid mounting point like the rear door frame, I built out of large ali section. Spread the load out. Use glue, vhb tapes etc instead of point loads like rivets where you can.
@@brendontait6968 Thank you so much for your quick response and all that information. The cell panels are not sheet metal, do you think I should add a sheet metal on top to fix the furniture? Do you have pictures of the installation of your layout and more specifically of the bed?
@@brendontait6968 no unfortunately I have no link to know the design of the panels, I just know that the cell dates from 1982 because I have the plate of the manufacturer
I have only driven it a few thousand km tbh, but generally quite affordable for parts. Rubber seals are starting to wear at this age, so replacing Portal seals etc can be a bit of a mission.
Hi mate, What did you mean when you said "the stand out was sika 2h super grip so I'll be using that, but I couldn't recommend using it for any building project so avoid it" ? Thanks!
I thought I'd be thorough and test the glues strength before I built the truck. The supergrip was the strongest by a long shot, however... I didn't test what it would do when it got wet. On the front of the tube it said it was waterproof so I didn't think twice about it. But as soon as it got wet, it completely let go. I think what happened was the polyurethane absorbed water and swelled (after it was cured). The expansion I think separated the bond as it grew. I'll do a followup video on this
wow nice any chance of links to where you got nzdf unimog? and the panels? im really interested i was thinking to buy an aussie one and ship it here but the cost of shipping is pretty big
Cheers, yeah... the army only sell them off every 5 years or so. They just come up for sale when they come up for sale. I think shipping to Oz is about 5k. You'd prolly be better off finding someone wanting to get rid of theirs in oz.
I just found your Chanel and watched all your videos one after another. U have some very neat skills. I am now a subscriber and am looking forward to your next videos. One question... what do u do for a living?
Thanks Erick, glad you've appreciated them so far. You should enjoy what is coming up. For a job... I contract out mainly doing product evaluation/design. Have a fairly varied background tho generally in technical fields. Thanks and welcome =)
Absolutely... well not the stuff I used anyrate. I used sika supergrip. It showed the strongest in my tests by far, the data sheet said it was waterproof etc. So I used it. However as soon as it gets wet, it falls off. The box basically started falling apart. The repair cost much more than it cost to build the whole box. Sika denied any misrepresentation on the data sheet. I offered to bring samples in to show the problem. They didn't want to see (they already knew but didn't want to acknowledge the problem) it's a pity, because I use to rate Sika fairly highly. And they actually do make some good products. But don't expect them to stand by their products. I choose to use other brands from now.
@@ThaboNel I am a fan of the recent silane terminated polymer adhesives. (Normally reffered to as hybrid) previous tests I have done have shown them to be nearly twice as strong as polyurethane. They skin quick, however if curing to any depth they will take MUCH longer to fully cure than polyurethane or silicone. They clean up up with alcohol. Always etch prime aluminum parts first. If I didn't have beef with Sika it would be their 552. But I use Selleys armourflex (not the solar one). My last tests showed this to be significantly stronger (double) than 552. But I suspect the 552 wasn't fully cured. Armourflex is also about half the price of 552.
@@brendontait6968 Yep, did but get a whole lot of crap results. Mostly SIPs with wood, for residential construction. SIPs are almost unheard of on this side of the pond. Very few options.
Yeah, good. There is quite a lot of thermal bridging with the joiners I used. I'll have to fix this at some point. The reason I chose that type of joint is it is stronger than the alternate non thermal bridging type joint.
@@brendontait6968 thanks for the response. the xps fibreglass skin sandwich panel is very expensive. what skins are on your sandwich panels ? what size thickness in sheets did you use?
Im assuming the xps composite fibreglass skin has less thermal bridging as oppose to colorbond skins. are you reffering to the channels used/ extrusions?
Both... I could have joined it in a way where thermal bridging wouldn't be an issue but it wouldn't have been as strong (but still could have been strong enough?) The skin does conduct the heat from the aluminum down about 150-200mm. The fiberglass stuff wouldn't do this. The thickness of my panels is 50mm. The reason I used the steel panels is because they dent rather than crack and become waterlogged.
Hey mate I would really appreciate if you can tell me about your base channel that you used at the bottom. Height width and thickness. Thanx in advance .
The channel I used was just provided by the panel company. Obviously the same internal width as the panel, about 30mm high and it was only fairly thin... like maybe 1.2mm thick?
@@brendontait6968 thanx mate for the advise. Yeah it's very thin I can't find anything else out there that is thicker. Looks good the way you done it 👍
@@ThaboNel it's difficult to know exactly the best method.... if following my method you'll likely want to allow a lot extra for a coating. I like steel panels because they dent instead of crack. I have an old insulated container that is foam/glass with some cracks in it... the foam is pretty much waterlogged and the container is now worthless. Steel panels are also resistant to lightening strikes.
@@mat4260 hey mate, I'm not 100% sure what I'd do.... there are two main ways of doing it.... the way I did it or just using an L shaped ali section inside and out with the difference being that the latter won't thermal bridge. But my guess is the type of extrusion I used will likely be stronger. With the downside of the thermal bridge. I think it is easy enough to get around tho, just putting some insulation over the corner sections (and a bit down the walls near to the corner). Will be a new vid out in the coming weeks. Cheers
@@brendontait6968 cool. Yea I'd def go with premade corner section. Seems like it would be much more rigid. How did you attatch the bottom plate to the mog frame? I looked at one today
Hi Dante, thanks. The panels are called SIPs or structural insulated panels. A lot of people prefer using the composite foam panels but for a few reasons I like steel.
@@brendontait6968, thanks for the data man¡ I just was wondering how fast you can set the box, these are more expensive than the composite panels? have you any web site to recommend to check prices in Europe? thanks in advance!
The box took me one day, the roof took me one day and the doors took me one day. I assume the composite panel is more expensive than steel. There are advantages and disadvantages for each. Steel does conduct heat/cold down from the extrusions quite well, composite panels dont, but can crack when hit whereas steel dents. Steel is safe from a lightning strike, composite is questionable. I don't know any European sources sorry, but it should be fairly easy to find. I liked the styrene as opposed to the urethane/iso core since it has better flex.
The large section ali for the rear was just from a local aluminium supplier and the ali for the panels was from the panel supplier Metalcraft (insulated panel division)
Hey Chris, As far as the styrene is concerned... it is shielded by a steel wall so I suspect not much vapor will come through. The SIPs panels are so cheap and easy to build with...
The sika that I used fell apart after a few weeks. I used Selleys armourflex to bond the panels etc together, this has remained strong. If I were to do it again, I'd use armourflex on everything and chromate coat the aluminium.
Awesome finally found a straight to the point channel showing exactly what I want to do cheers from Perth Western Australia
Good day mate, I'm in Perth as well, I'm just wondering if you found those aluminium extrusions in Perth. Where? Kind regards Peter
@@petersole2366 a quick google search showed that XFLAM has a location in Malaga 👍
Just the way I like it ... Professional Job, High Quality, Strong Camper ... , no compromise, everything on the Highest Level.
A pleasure to watch your professional job, and your amazing project.
No frame, yet very good structure! Brilliant endeavor! Weldone bro
I'm really enjoying watching how you do this.
Thanks Dave, promise I'll get some more up soon. Been pretty hectic lately.
Loving the videos, found today and quickly catching up, I intend on building a slide on/lift off camper for a mog, so will require structural frame, but like the idea of these panels.
I want to build a camper van on an old 75' Chevy 1 ton truck chassis, it's a 166 inch wheelbase which is larger than most and used primarily by the farmer or commercial application but occasionally an RV was made and it was very retro and nostalgic .. even if i use older materials on the outside, it should be a great unit
Great minds think alike apparently, I made my truck box out of 50mm cool room panels and did similar tests of the glue and rivets, I ended up using sikaflex pro + which is good but has a WAY longer cure time than the 3 days they claim. Have you noticed thermal bridging with those corner connectors? I used regular angled alloy to prevent it yet still notice it gets hotter inside that out from the steel gathering the heat.
Yeah it deff bridges - am working a way around it. I thought about both ways and decided that the corner connectors would be stronger and there is a way to deal with the thermal bridging.
@@brendontait6968 Definitely stronger but its getting hot and even my truck gets hotter than outside because of the steel even without bridging, if I had my time again I would have used fibre glass panels..
What size and style rivets do you recommend bro ? I’m still trying to figure that and which poly adhesive to buy that Bunnings or anyone in Australia stocks
@@unbr3akablonsoundcloud-tx6co I used the biggest regular 4.8mm alloy rivets, they go on sale at Bunnings for $20 a box of a 1000 sometimes. Skikaflex pro + is all you need usually but it depends on what surfaces your sticking.
@jedics1 I’ve got a 47 year old camper trailer I’ve stripped to bare metal, rust treated, and coated all over with chassis black. I’m wondering if I should sand back the contact points where the frame meets panel / channels . I don’t know how the bitumenous paint will hold to the panel
Amazing build and nice inspiration. Where on earth did you get hold of those aluminium profiles?
Thx, the people selling the panels also sold the extrusion
The sicaflex was so neat when you put tape down each side. I have never seen that before. So clever.
Looks great. How sturdy will it be on the open road?
I thought everyone knew the tape thing. There are some cooler ways I'll prolly show later on. As far as the open road goes, at some point it will be solid as, however currently I'm fairly certain that it would fly off the back in pieces. tbc...
Sika flexa he in Australia is the ducks nuts when it comes to projects like urs 👍👍👍
Yeah, I don't rate it at all. Overpriced, customer service is rubbish, sellys armorflex is nearly twice as strong in tests I've done and less than half the price.
I'm using Selley's Armourflex as an adhesive and seam sealer to fix an aluminium pontoon deck to the aluminium deck frame (in conjunction with rivet nuts and 316 stainless steel bolts). Glad to hear you rate it over Sikaflex.
I don't know what the finished product looks like but I will take you word for the beautiful....
Thanks, I've had a lot of other projects on and haven't been able to get much done on it. However, summer is coming... so am going to get back onto it!
I would use Polyesther fiberglass matts glued on top (with epoxy) of your box to seal everything and strengthen the structure. Maybe cut out the windows and sunroof first. I really amazed this is possible with standard panels like that, good project.
Hey Robbert. Are you meaning just fiberglassing the top? I'd be against that due to differential expansion of rigid materials bonded directly ontop of each other may cause delamination.
Raptor costing the entire exterior should be fine shouldn’t it ? It’s a polyurethane product . If it made contact with the poly adhesive I’m not sure though ? My original plan was to spray as close as I can to the edges and angle would hide where I didn’t want the paint to meet the adhesive. Because my panels are being installed lengthways (2 x 2550 x1980) only an extra piece of flashing would neeed to run along the centre where the panels connect . Interest to know your thoughts
Cheers mate !
I investigated raptor, it couldn't be applied as thick as rhino and apparently not as UV stable. Either would be fine on styrene, however... there is none exposed.
@brendontait6968 So rhino would be the go on polyurethane ?once all angles ,extrusion etc installed just prime with an epoxy and coat with rhino ? Cheers mate !
Brilliantly explained and no BS.
Thx
Haven’t thought to use a sandwich made of styrofoam and fibreglass? I know it’s really efficient in terms of isolation and also it does not absorb water which is a big plus!!! And another question... I was thinking to build an external frame similar to the container one to make it more robust and more easily detachable from the truck... any thoughts about it? Anyway thank you very much for your videos... they are a very precious source of information!!!
Hey Stefano, I did consider it. Everything has it's pros and cons. I want a rugged, solid truck. A steel shell will cope much better from a lightning strike than fiberglass one, I have an old fibreglass/foam shipping container that is waterlogged - when fiberglass gets a decent hit, it can crack which can lead to water ingress whereas steel generally dents. Mostly, I'm cautious about outgassing from fiberglass resins, I'm wanting the interior to be as fume free as possible (this is something I'll dip into heavily in the future) the steel has an oven baked enamel which is likely to gas significantly less than fiberglass. Plenty of people make detachable shells and it works for them, I wanted to make a shell that was more integrated with the truck, there are benefits to this... lower insurance, registration fees, also can make things like a passthrough easier.
Looking great mate, excellent vid!
Thanks Andy, congrats on the recognition youtube are giving you by having you guys in sydney.... well deserved.
Pretty nice build really well explain Keep us updated
Thanks, I've been a bit demotivated recently due to the issues with Sika, stay tuned for the drama... should be back into it soon!
Love the work bud , Is that a standard circular saw or a cold cut saw ? What kind of blade are you using ? I’d have to buy a cheaper option saw for my project , any advice would be appreciated, cheers mate !
Thanks, just a standard circular saw blade. If you are cutting ali, make sure you wax it frequently and don't be too aggressive with cutting speed.
hi mate . i saw one of your earlier videos where you were going to use a big Tee shaped extrusion around the bottom of the box , dont suppose you can identify who supplies that ?
I cant find any suppliers who carry the extrusion.
Hey mate . I'm building a big food trailer could you please tell me what glue adhesive you recommend for the panels please. Thank you
How has the EPS stood up to being bounced up and down the road? I've heard it can delaminate and essentially crumble to bits inside the walls.
I have only done a couple of thousand km since with maybe 100km on bumpy roads/tracks. I was cautious of that going into it and found that the polyiso and polyurethane foams are much more rigid and likely to delaminate than the EPS. I haven't seen any sign of delamination yet.
Straight to the point video. I'm looking for the aluminium capping range that was shown. Anyone have any information helping to find?
I got mine from the company that manufactured the panels
@@brendontait6968 thanks
Did you try 3M 5200? Ive seen tests where it was as strong as epoxy.
i made a little camper out of fridge panels with a similar system and regret the thermal bridging that the aluminium cause.i have worked hard to fix this with aluminium angle instead of extruded joiners and 45deg miter joins this is important especially for summer weather
My thoughts are to just chuck some thin insulation on the inside 100mm either side of the bridge. Am keen to see if it will sort it.
I dont think covering it will work very well as both inside and outside skins are connected. I guess with your giant battery pack and large size room and mild climate you can use ac to solve it.
@@stjimtemyth995 I'll do a video in the coming months on it with thermal imaging to see how well it works. Thx
Hey mate. Very interested in the build. Have learnt a lot from all your videos. I have a few questions please. How much did the boxing cost? Iv emailed metalcraft but haven’t gotten a reply. How do you fix cabinetry and interior bits? I was thinking about glass composite panel over the cool room panel, however I feel it will be much more expensive. If you don’t mind, how much do you think it’s cost without the crap sika failure? Must have been very sad after all that work, thanks very much for finding that out for everyone. Love the build and really hoping for some more videos. I just bought an aus army technical manual on trade me. Lots of mog info. I could scan and send if you’re interested as a thanks for your awesome videos.
Thanks Matthew, yeah a copy of it would be amazing. Msg me on insta. Any interior stuff could be fastened by a piece of L section aluminium and glue, double sided tape (vhb style) or rivets. You can just buy composite foam panel if that's what you are after. I prefer steel because it dents if hit rather than splits. It is also more resistant to lightening strikes. The box cost me about NZD $3,000 to build. I'm going to start working on putting another video together this weekend so should get it out shortly.
Love your unimog, we are starting a similar project, just wondering where you obtained the corner profile’s
Hey, thanks Kaye. I bought them from the company that supplies the panels. Over here it was metalcraft
@@brendontait6968 ok thanks
Yooooo where did you get that extrusion and what is it called!
I can't find it for the life of me. I'm not even worried about thermal isolation either. I'd love to have the composite version of this stuff that a couple panel manufacturers sell but that's not available either.
The extrusion is normally sold by the companies that sell the panels
Looking forward great 👍
I want to do this on my cube
Hi man, I discovered your work via your videos that are great, you do great work and live Unimog 👍 .
I have two questions for you if you don’t mind I have the same project as you (setting up a refrigeration cell on an Unimog) I wanted to know which panels you took for the construction of your cell (with or without sheet metal coating) and that it glue used you to glue the different panels?
My second question concerns the interior design, how would you fix furniture in height? I would like to gain space make a hanging bed and put furniture in height but I am afraid to tear the panels by fixing them on...
if you could help me I would be grateful
In advance thank you
Florian
Hey, I used the panels with sheetmetal. I made sure to use polystyrene core instead of polyiso. Polyiso has a habit of delaminating since it is more rigid than styrene. The glues I recommend are the silane terminated polymers (hybrid) or polyurethane adhesive sealants.
Wit regard to fixing... I was also going to do a dropdown bed. I think the key is spreading the load over a large area. In my version, I was going to mount to the ali section that is in the corners with some other ali section to thicken it. It seems pretty good as long as you dont have point loads on it. Have a look at how I mounted the pillow bearings on the door frame. I used an ali section that was longer than the bearings. Although this was mounted on the door frame, without the long section the loads were liable to flex the panels and frame. Obviously areas that needed a solid mounting point like the rear door frame, I built out of large ali section.
Spread the load out. Use glue, vhb tapes etc instead of point loads like rivets where you can.
@@brendontait6968 Thank you so much for your quick response and all that information. The cell panels are not sheet metal, do you think I should add a sheet metal on top to fix the furniture? Do you have pictures of the installation of your layout and more specifically of the bed?
@@floriantorche5408 have you got a link for the type of panels you are using?
@@brendontait6968 no unfortunately I have no link to know the design of the panels, I just know that the cell dates from 1982 because I have the plate of the manufacturer
@@floriantorche5408 flick me a msg on insta, take a pic or something
How have you found the reliability of the Mog? Hard to get parts, expensive?
I have only driven it a few thousand km tbh, but generally quite affordable for parts. Rubber seals are starting to wear at this age, so replacing Portal seals etc can be a bit of a mission.
Hi mate,
What did you mean when you said "the stand out was sika 2h super grip so I'll be using that, but I couldn't recommend using it for any building project so avoid it" ?
Thanks!
I thought I'd be thorough and test the glues strength before I built the truck. The supergrip was the strongest by a long shot, however... I didn't test what it would do when it got wet. On the front of the tube it said it was waterproof so I didn't think twice about it. But as soon as it got wet, it completely let go. I think what happened was the polyurethane absorbed water and swelled (after it was cured). The expansion I think separated the bond as it grew. I'll do a followup video on this
@@brendontait6968 That makes sense. Could you recommend an alternative adhesive? Really appreciate your reply too.
wow nice
any chance of links to where you got nzdf unimog? and the panels?
im really interested i was thinking to buy an aussie one and ship it here but the cost of shipping is pretty big
Cheers, yeah... the army only sell them off every 5 years or so. They just come up for sale when they come up for sale. I think shipping to Oz is about 5k. You'd prolly be better off finding someone wanting to get rid of theirs in oz.
Hi beautiful work, can I ask you what is it weight this ,,box,,? thank you
Thx, I think around 500kg
What do you mean by steel tie rods?
Rods that tie the roof sections to the base of the tray
Great project,
Hey mate, currently building a unimog camper myself and wondering were you got the fridge panelling from?
Company called metalcraft
Could you tell if your build is still going strong? Any problems? THX mate
Yeah good... tho the sika was the biggest failure on this build.
great work!
Thanks, it'll hopefully be on the way to becoming a decent wagon once I'm over a few hurdles.
I just found your Chanel and watched all your videos one after another. U have some very neat skills. I am now a subscriber and am looking forward to your next videos.
One question... what do u do for a living?
Thanks Erick, glad you've appreciated them so far. You should enjoy what is coming up. For a job... I contract out mainly doing product evaluation/design. Have a fairly varied background tho generally in technical fields. Thanks and welcome =)
That is nice love this truck.
Where did you get your panels from
I got them from a place called metal craft. The panels have a generic name of SIPs structural insulated panel.
So I have to ask...what is on top of the chimney that is moving around? Is that a camera or a vent or ????
It's just a vent on the chimney that points away from the wind. Sorry it isn't something more high tech.
Are you saying do NOT use the Sikaflex? What happened?
Absolutely... well not the stuff I used anyrate. I used sika supergrip. It showed the strongest in my tests by far, the data sheet said it was waterproof etc. So I used it. However as soon as it gets wet, it falls off. The box basically started falling apart. The repair cost much more than it cost to build the whole box. Sika denied any misrepresentation on the data sheet. I offered to bring samples in to show the problem. They didn't want to see (they already knew but didn't want to acknowledge the problem) it's a pity, because I use to rate Sika fairly highly. And they actually do make some good products. But don't expect them to stand by their products. I choose to use other brands from now.
Which glue do you now recommend?
@@ThaboNel I am a fan of the recent silane terminated polymer adhesives. (Normally reffered to as hybrid) previous tests I have done have shown them to be nearly twice as strong as polyurethane. They skin quick, however if curing to any depth they will take MUCH longer to fully cure than polyurethane or silicone. They clean up up with alcohol. Always etch prime aluminum parts first. If I didn't have beef with Sika it would be their 552. But I use Selleys armourflex (not the solar one). My last tests showed this to be significantly stronger (double) than 552. But I suspect the 552 wasn't fully cured. Armourflex is also about half the price of 552.
Thanks for that, will use it when I start my build.
Does sikaflex have a primer that you need to use for aluminum?
Hi, the tie rod where are they used?
Hi Ivan, 4 corners of the box from the tray 2 corner brackets at the top
can you get those modules in different thicknesses?
Yes, the factory I purchased from could make in 30,50,75,100,150 and 200mm thick.
@@brendontait6968 150-200mm is good ;) wonder if i can get that stuff here in Scandinavia.
@@grapsorz almost certainly. SIP's in plywood are commonly used for construction.
source on panels and mounting tracks? found a company in aus that does panels unsure about tracks tho
Most sip companies that sell the panels also had the ali extrusion when I looked into mine.
Suppliers of panels and profiles? I've been looking and can't find anything like this in North America.
Look up SIPs it stands for structural insulated panel. The profiles should come from the panel company
@@brendontait6968 Yep, did but get a whole lot of crap results. Mostly SIPs with wood, for residential construction. SIPs are almost unheard of on this side of the pond. Very few options.
Have a look at people who make coolstores etc.
hows the diy coolroom panel build holding up?
Yeah, good. There is quite a lot of thermal bridging with the joiners I used. I'll have to fix this at some point. The reason I chose that type of joint is it is stronger than the alternate non thermal bridging type joint.
@@brendontait6968 thanks for the response. the xps fibreglass skin sandwich panel is very expensive. what skins are on your sandwich panels ? what size thickness in sheets did you use?
Im assuming the xps composite fibreglass skin has less thermal bridging as oppose to colorbond skins. are you reffering to the channels used/ extrusions?
Both... I could have joined it in a way where thermal bridging wouldn't be an issue but it wouldn't have been as strong (but still could have been strong enough?) The skin does conduct the heat from the aluminum down about 150-200mm. The fiberglass stuff wouldn't do this. The thickness of my panels is 50mm. The reason I used the steel panels is because they dent rather than crack and become waterlogged.
Did you finish the project? Sell or still hold?
Still got it, will be a while longer till im finished as I don't commit much time to it.
@@brendontait6968 it’s an amazing amazing build. Literally mind blowing. Would love to see it for real one day.
Why does that chimney move with the wind?
They are made to do that so that it pulls a draft up the chimney
Hey, can you tell what was the exterior size of box?
I think 2.4x4.2m
Hey mate I would really appreciate if you can tell me about your base channel that you used at the bottom. Height width and thickness. Thanx in advance .
The channel I used was just provided by the panel company. Obviously the same internal width as the panel, about 30mm high and it was only fairly thin... like maybe 1.2mm thick?
@@brendontait6968 thanx mate for the advise. Yeah it's very thin I can't find anything else out there that is thicker. Looks good the way you done it 👍
Where did you purchase the panels.?
I bought them from metalcraft in wiri
How much it costed approximately?
was roughly around $2,000 USD to build the box
What panel did you use?
Hi Matt, they are called sips or structural insulated panels. There are plenty of details about them in this comments feed. Thx
Hi, I'm trying to work out the cheapest way to do my box, if you don't mind, how much did the box cost you in materials?
Not to worry, I read the comment further down on price.
All good, what sort of structures and pricing have you been looking at?
Brendon Tait I can get a proper factory cut 3cm foam and fibreglass done, just 4 walls for $5500, I think I’m going to follow your method.
@@ThaboNel it's difficult to know exactly the best method.... if following my method you'll likely want to allow a lot extra for a coating. I like steel panels because they dent instead of crack. I have an old insulated container that is foam/glass with some cracks in it... the foam is pretty much waterlogged and the container is now worthless. Steel panels are also resistant to lightening strikes.
Big like
Was it easy to source the aluminum extrusions.
keith fowler the extrusions come from the factory that supply the panels.
Tbh I think if I were to do it again I'm not sure I'd use that type of extrusion.
What type of extrusion would you use Brendan? I'm still keen for more videos =) any info would be greatly appreciated
@@mat4260 hey mate, I'm not 100% sure what I'd do.... there are two main ways of doing it.... the way I did it or just using an L shaped ali section inside and out with the difference being that the latter won't thermal bridge. But my guess is the type of extrusion I used will likely be stronger. With the downside of the thermal bridge. I think it is easy enough to get around tho, just putting some insulation over the corner sections (and a bit down the walls near to the corner). Will be a new vid out in the coming weeks. Cheers
@@brendontait6968 cool. Yea I'd def go with premade corner section. Seems like it would be much more rigid. How did you attatch the bottom plate to the mog frame? I looked at one today
hi man, excellent work! which is the name of those panels?
Hi Dante, thanks. The panels are called SIPs or structural insulated panels. A lot of people prefer using the composite foam panels but for a few reasons I like steel.
@@brendontait6968, thanks for the data man¡ I just was wondering how fast you can set the box, these are more expensive than the composite panels? have you any web site to recommend to check prices in Europe? thanks in advance!
The box took me one day, the roof took me one day and the doors took me one day. I assume the composite panel is more expensive than steel. There are advantages and disadvantages for each. Steel does conduct heat/cold down from the extrusions quite well, composite panels dont, but can crack when hit whereas steel dents. Steel is safe from a lightning strike, composite is questionable. I don't know any European sources sorry, but it should be fairly easy to find. I liked the styrene as opposed to the urethane/iso core since it has better flex.
Would you tell us where you got the corner sections from?
The factory that sells the panels also sells the extrusions. There is more detail about this in this comments thread.
Where did you buy your extruded aluminum profiles?
The large section ali for the rear was just from a local aluminium supplier and the ali for the panels was from the panel supplier Metalcraft (insulated panel division)
Upon pain of instigating kiwi jokes, have you considered a double skinned wall filled with wool insulation for health reasons? 🐏🐏🇦🇺
Hey Chris, As far as the styrene is concerned... it is shielded by a steel wall so I suspect not much vapor will come through. The SIPs panels are so cheap and easy to build with...
do you mind sharing what adhesive you used? thanks
The sika that I used fell apart after a few weeks. I used Selleys armourflex to bond the panels etc together, this has remained strong. If I were to do it again, I'd use armourflex on everything and chromate coat the aluminium.
Are these freezer pannels sections and hardware?
Yes