@LeaninLeon I would check the u joints in the drive shaft. If they're worn out, they would make the truck shake. You may also want to look at the steering pieces in the front of the truck to see if the bushings are worn. If you have a shake in the steering wheel about 30-40 MPH worn steering components such as your, sway bar end links, inner and outer tie rod ends, could also cause these issues. Hope this helps.
thanks for the video. just installed front and rear monroe shocks on my 98 s10. video was a big help. having the list of tools you have on the video helps so you dont have to go back and forth finding the right tool. FOR PEOPLE THINKING ABOUT DOING THIS AND USING JACK AND JACK STANDS ITS EASY. for the rear, use jack stands instead of screw jacks that he uses in the video to place under the leaf springs. jack the car up, place 2 jack stands under the leaf springs and VERY SLOWLY let down. NOTE; DONT LET OFF COMPLETELY! THE JACK WILL BE HOLDING 97% OF THE WEIGHT. the jack stands are just to keep the leaf springs from dropping any. ANYBODY CAN DO THIS. IT TOOK ME 1 and 1/2 HOURS. im 25 years old
This video is great much like there other s10 videos but i wanted to add my problems that i experienced. If you live in the rust belt it's next to impossible to remove the bolts with U nuts or speed nuts whatever they're called. I had to drill out the bolts in the hard to reach areas and grind away the other ones. Front was the same story. I had no shaft to clamp to in order to remove the nut on top. Also the lower stud where the rear shocks are secured with one nut is different on some models. The original shocks had bushings and was wrapped around that so when i went to put new ones on there's a metal sleeve that you have to grind off. Hope this helps.
Great video, very helpful. I had already loaned a spring compressor to do the job. When took the front tire off, I already knew this was different than my Volvo I used to work on. It was the time to head to you-tube. Thank you very much, this made the job very easy. I could not believe that 2001 GMC Sonoma shocks/struts were so easy to replace, right on my driveway.
@MustangGTR2 You may want to look under the car and check the bottom of the doors to make sure that it's not starting to rust. Open the hood and inspect for any obvious damage along the frame. Pull the dipstick to check the condition of the oil and that It's up to level.Take the car for a ride to check for any squeaks or vibrations in the steering or brake peddle, that may indicate the vehicle needs some suspension repairs. You could always check CarFax too, to find the history.
@LeaninLeon I would recommend starting with repairing that part since it sounds like it's pretty far gone. This may resolve some of the issues, if it does not, it should be repaired anyway.
You helped me with my fronts, and now the rears! By the way, the front shock and rear shock instructions for the S10 are identical to my '84 El Camino, except I had to remove the back tires in order to get the jack close enough to lift up on the shock, for removal. Thanks again 1A Auto! :)
I just replaced the rear shocks on my 96 S10 2WD and found an easier way: If you remove the spare tire, there's no need to jack up the vehicle. You will fit underneath. As I recall the bolts and nuts are 21mm tightened to 62 foot pounds and 13mm @ 22 foot pounds, as per the service manual. This was an easy job. I used Monroe OE Spectrum shocks.
@Vacmasterthegreat Not sure of the mileage or the year of the truck, but if the vehicle has a lot of bounciness to it, it could be time to replace them. You may also want to look to see if the shocks are damp at all or show signs of leaking.
Thanks! We now sell them on our website. Here is a link to them 1aauto.com 888-844-3393 www.1aauto.com/search?words=magnetic+tray?VideoReply&VideoReply&Atony
We carry them on our website 1aauto.com Here's a link to them on our site. Just copy and paste this link into your browser. 1aauto.com/1A/1AAutoClothingandApp/Chevy/Camaro/1AXAA00001/515678?ATony
Living where they put salt on the roads in winter makes simple jobs like this, not so simple. I am changing the shocks on my 94 GMC sierra right now and for the rear shocks and all the top bolts snapped in half when trying to take them off. The bottom ones I had to grind off. All the nuts were rusted/siezed to the bolts.
Your best bet is to soak it in penetrating fluid and see if it comes free. if it does not, you may have to attempt to heat up the bold but this is dangerous since the fluid in the shock could boil over and explode if the shock hasn't already leaked out all of the fluid.
@1aauto yea i figured, sorry for the late reply, we drove it without one shock for a while and ended up blowing the motor, never had a problems with traction though
Would like to point if someone runs across this is that the inner sleeve on my old truck shock fused to the chassis spindle....the rubber grommet came away from the steel inner sleeve on the old shock. I though I was getting the wrong shock but that inner sleeve fused to the original spindle so that it looked and measured a .750 spindle when it actually is a .500 spindle. Unfortunately I couldn't see the seam or a gap of the inner sleeve do to out of sight and rust. Obviously I never changed them on this vehicle and fortunately I called a friend who was aware of the sleeve remaining on the chassis spindle. I thought I was going to have to punch out the inner sleeve to make it fit. Somewhat lame-brain on my part but the spindle looked as one solid piece and neither auto parts store had a clue either.
Your videos have helped me out a lot and saved me lots of cash. I was wondering if you could do a tutorial on installing leaf springs and front springs for a s10 blazer
+Travis Thompkins Thank you for watching, and the compliments. We will forward this request to our studio for review and hopefully a new video in the future. 1aauto.com
Have a question, up by my transmision where the knucle on the shaft, is there supposed to be almost like a sling of grease on the bottom of the truck? i never noticed this till a jacked it up
hey my shocks a little rusted, i got a 91 and i think they're stock lol. was lookin under it for a route for dual exhaust now i'm wonderin about replacing them. like the acctual strut part is chipping off entirely lol.
CONTINUED: Drive smooth til i would hit a big bump then it felt like i would bottom out. I know lowering it put stress on the stock shocks because they were being pushed on constantly. Do you suggest getting struts 2 inches shorted for the front and 3 inches shorter for the rear for it to ride smoothly over those big bumps? Or was putting it on blocks not a good idea? Thanks!
Hey great videos! I have a question too, I have a 93' S10 with 169,000 miles on it. This truck was my grandfathers, my brothers, now it's mine and well taken care of. One thing is the struts and the springs have never been changed and it's been past it's time to do so but I have noticed that it's getting a lot more rough of a ride. I lowered it a couple years ago 2 inches in the front with spindles, and 3 inches in the back with blocks. That caused it to ride very smooth until i would hit a big
I have coil over shocks and I lowered my truck 3 inches in the back but I think that the shocks are holding it up in the air still should I put regular shocks on it before anything else
if I push on either end of my truck(L or R, F or B), it has a lot of springiness to it, but always returns back to its proper height, does that necessarily mean I need both front and rear shocks? when I am carrying heavy stuff, the truck doesn't sag at all, so does that indicate my rear shocks are good or is that maintenance of height the job of the leaf springs, and i could have bad rear shocks?
@1aauto I checked more closely, none of the shocks leak, and it seems the only real bounciness is in the front left shock. I guess I didn't think that there'd be some bounce to the car when I pushed on the other 3 corners. So for $30 I'm going to replace the definitely bad one. do you have any vids on how to do front end alignments?
A lot simpler than working on my very rusted 2000 Envoy. One of the upper bolts is stripped. My old shocks don't have ears, they have a hole through the tab. Very little space to work on it. Any suggestions on how to get the stripped bolt out of the very narrow space?
I just had a stuck front lower shock bolt. It was stuck to the metal in the shock itself. I got the nut off just fine but the bolt was literally rusted to the shock. After half a can of pb penetrating oil and 37 hammer whacks I had nothing. I had to hammer the left side while impact driving the right side for about 20 minutes while spraying penetrating oil the whole time. I broke the washer in process but ended up getting the bolt out unscathed. NEVER GIVE UP! it can all be replaced.
Lol this made it look too easy. Bottom of the rear shock was practically welded on there. Had to cut the bolt off the bracket, drill out a 9/16 hole and put grade 8 bolts through it. That was the passenger side I have no desire the do the driver side right now lol. I’ve never seen shocks so shot though for 160,000 miles on my truck. Every one was blown completely
Great video! On the top bolts, are there nuts on the other side that you need to keep in place with a wrench when unbolting? Also, am I correct in assuming the process is the same for an 01 Blazer?
Seems silly to have to say this, but: if you take bolts off, and you are going to re use them when they are rusty: use a wire brush of some sort to clean the rust off before you try to put them back in. If you can also get into the holes, clean those too.
+Dennis Wiggins Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&NwvhT78juHI
+Jacob Petit Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
+geboyz If the rear is sagging due to a worn set of shocks, replacing them should help. Here is a link to them replacement shocks that we carry which are shown in this video. www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&NwvhT78juHI
+Khay Honestly, there are two reasons we use the lift: 1) It improves the ability of the camera being able to capture what's going on due to increased light and clearance, and 2) Lifts are awesome tools. In the absence of having a lift, make sure you are jacking your vehicle up on a stable surface and that the jack is secured and in good working order. Safety...always! For anyone else looking to replace their shocks and struts, 1A Auto offers the parts here: www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Ok so I took my chevy s10 extreme in today for an oil change and an alignment. The guy calls me back and says I need front and rear shocks, an idler arm (which I knew I needed). He wanted to charg me 953.28 for the parts and labor. Can someone please reasure me that he was trying to fuck me and that I am not going crazy?
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
@LeaninLeon I would check the u joints in the drive shaft. If they're worn out, they would make the truck shake. You may also want to look at the steering pieces in the front of the truck to see if the bushings are worn. If you have a shake in the steering wheel about 30-40 MPH worn steering components such as your, sway bar end links, inner and outer tie rod ends, could also cause these issues. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much, you have givin me the confidence to attempt my own shock replacement!
Very nice. I replaced the fronts last weekend after watching your video on the fronts. Now I'll do the rear. Good tips.
thanks for the video. just installed front and rear monroe shocks on my 98 s10. video was a big help. having the list of tools you have on the video helps so you dont have to go back and forth finding the right tool. FOR PEOPLE THINKING ABOUT DOING THIS AND USING JACK AND JACK STANDS ITS EASY. for the rear, use jack stands instead of screw jacks that he uses in the video to place under the leaf springs. jack the car up, place 2 jack stands under the leaf springs and VERY SLOWLY let down. NOTE; DONT LET OFF COMPLETELY! THE JACK WILL BE HOLDING 97% OF THE WEIGHT. the jack stands are just to keep the leaf springs from dropping any. ANYBODY CAN DO THIS. IT TOOK ME 1 and 1/2 HOURS. im 25 years old
This video is great much like there other s10 videos but i wanted to add my problems that i experienced. If you live in the rust belt it's next to impossible to remove the bolts with U nuts or speed nuts whatever they're called. I had to drill out the bolts in the hard to reach areas and grind away the other ones. Front was the same story. I had no shaft to clamp to in order to remove the nut on top. Also the lower stud where the rear shocks are secured with one nut is different on some models. The original shocks had bushings and was wrapped around that so when i went to put new ones on there's a metal sleeve that you have to grind off. Hope this helps.
Great video, very helpful. I had already loaned a spring compressor to do the job. When took the front tire off, I already knew this was different than my Volvo I used to work on. It was the time to head to you-tube. Thank you very much, this made the job very easy. I could not believe that 2001 GMC Sonoma shocks/struts were so easy to replace, right on my driveway.
you guys are my new best friends.
man i love your videos over the s10 i know s10forum would love to see more of these.
For the 4wd versions the front and rear shocks and struts removal will be the same.
Hi Roy, Thanks for watching. We carry all kinds of shocks for many different vehicles with FREE SHIPPING on our website 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thanks Mike and 1A. Im not a car guy , but I will be able to replace my shocks now. Best to you and you buisness.
@MustangGTR2 You may want to look under the car and check the bottom of the doors to make sure that it's not starting to rust. Open the hood and inspect for any obvious damage along the frame. Pull the dipstick to check the condition of the oil and that It's up to level.Take the car for a ride to check for any squeaks or vibrations in the steering or brake peddle, that may indicate the vehicle needs some suspension repairs. You could always check CarFax too, to find the history.
@LeaninLeon I would recommend starting with repairing that part since it sounds like it's pretty far gone. This may resolve some of the issues, if it does not, it should be repaired anyway.
You helped me with my fronts, and now the rears! By the way, the front shock and rear shock instructions for the S10 are identical to my '84 El Camino, except I had to remove the back tires in order to get the jack close enough to lift up on the shock, for removal. Thanks again 1A Auto! :)
I just replaced the rear shocks on my 96 S10 2WD and found an easier way: If you remove the spare tire, there's no need to jack up the vehicle. You will fit underneath. As I recall the bolts and nuts are 21mm tightened to 62 foot pounds and 13mm @ 22 foot pounds, as per the service manual. This was an easy job. I used Monroe OE Spectrum shocks.
+Carlo Basta Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
the magnetic tray is awesome!!
@ItsGoodCookin Good Luck, Haven't done a vid on the Crown Vic or Grand Marquis shocks yet but we will in the future.
you guys are great , please dont stop posting videos!
@TheLuckeydc7 You may want to check with the manufacturer of the lowering kit to see what they recommend using for shocks and struts.
@Vacmasterthegreat Not sure of the mileage or the year of the truck, but if the vehicle has a lot of bounciness to it, it could be time to replace them. You may also want to look to see if the shocks are damp at all or show signs of leaking.
Thank you again for saving me so much money,,,, with a baby on the way, this knowledge was invaluable,,,,,
Like that magnetic tray.
Thanks! We now sell them on our website. Here is a link to them
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
www.1aauto.com/search?words=magnetic+tray?VideoReply&VideoReply&Atony
We carry them on our website 1aauto.com Here's a link to them on our site. Just copy and paste this link into your browser. 1aauto.com/1A/1AAutoClothingandApp/Chevy/Camaro/1AXAA00001/515678?ATony
I will guarantee it wouldn't be that easy for me !
It happens that way all the time.
Wasn't that easy for me. The top nut was so rusted on that it would just rotate the shock.
Living where they put salt on the roads in winter makes simple jobs like this, not so simple. I am changing the shocks on my 94 GMC sierra right now and for the rear shocks and all the top bolts snapped in half when trying to take them off. The bottom ones I had to grind off. All the nuts were rusted/siezed to the bolts.
@The99blazer They were the Munroes available at 1A Auto dot com.
@25Arsenic Thank you for watching.
We have them for sale on our website 1aauto.com Here's a link to them. 1aauto.com/1A/1AAutoClothingandApp/Chevy/Camaro/1AXAA00001/515678
Thank you for watching our video on TH-cam. Have a great day!
Looks easy with a hoist to lift the truck up six feet and a five foot jack stand How about us poor slobs that have to lay under the truck?
@anasamla DON'T...Your car would be hard to impossible to control. Shocks keep the tires firmly planted on the ground.
this video really help me! thank you very much! Do you have a video on how to replace front shocks on a 96 jimmy?
Your best bet is to soak it in penetrating fluid and see if it comes free. if it does not, you may have to attempt to heat up the bold but this is dangerous since the fluid in the shock could boil over and explode if the shock hasn't already leaked out all of the fluid.
@1aauto yea i figured, sorry for the late reply, we drove it without one shock for a while and ended up blowing the motor, never had a problems with traction though
With the rust belt States hit the top bolts with map gas!
Would like to point if someone runs across this is that the inner sleeve on my old truck shock fused to the chassis spindle....the rubber grommet came away from the steel inner sleeve on the old shock. I though I was getting the wrong shock but that inner sleeve fused to the original spindle so that it looked and measured a .750 spindle when it actually is a .500 spindle. Unfortunately I couldn't see the seam or a gap of the inner sleeve do to out of sight and rust. Obviously I never changed them on this vehicle and fortunately I called a friend who was aware of the sleeve remaining on the chassis spindle. I thought I was going to have to punch out the inner sleeve to make it fit. Somewhat lame-brain on my part but the spindle looked as one solid piece and neither auto parts store had a clue either.
Do you need to get an alignment after replacing only rear shocks? How about front shocks?
Just did these today easy as 1-2-3.. thanks for. Saving me time and money... would I need an alignment if I do the front and rear on the s10 Chevy
+o twomspeed Thanks for checking us out! No you should not need to have an alignment performed if you are just replacing the shocks. 1aauto.com
@Chriswelder1 Sounds steep to me! Also please just try to keep the adverbs clean :)
this video really helped me with my chevy s10 extd cab....and i just fixed my control arm bushing GOD!!!! that was no fun trust me!!!
great video. im about to replace the rear shock absorbers on my 96 grand marquis. from what ive read online it isnt going to be easy.
Your videos have helped me out a lot and saved me lots of cash. I was wondering if you could do a tutorial on installing leaf springs and front springs for a s10 blazer
+Travis Thompkins Thank you for watching, and the compliments. We will forward this request to our studio for review and hopefully a new video in the future. 1aauto.com
@Vacmasterthegreat With today's alignments they are all done on a machine using lasers. We currently do not have a video of this procedure.
Have a question, up by my transmision where the knucle on the shaft, is there supposed to be almost like a sling of grease on the bottom of the truck? i never noticed this till a jacked it up
Should you push the shock down and let it come back up 5-6 times to charge it up 1st?
@RegDunlop Replacing this type of shocks will not affect your alignment.
Thanks for the great video. Do i need to have the alignment of my vehicle checked after replacing the shocks?
hey my shocks a little rusted, i got a 91 and i think they're stock lol. was lookin under it for a route for dual exhaust now i'm wonderin about replacing them. like the acctual strut part is chipping off entirely lol.
CONTINUED: Drive smooth til i would hit a big bump then it felt like i would bottom out. I know lowering it put stress on the stock shocks because they were being pushed on constantly. Do you suggest getting struts 2 inches shorted for the front and 3 inches shorter for the rear for it to ride smoothly over those big bumps? Or was putting it on blocks not a good idea?
Thanks!
Hey great videos! I have a question too, I have a 93' S10 with 169,000 miles on it. This truck was my grandfathers, my brothers, now it's mine and well taken care of. One thing is the struts and the springs have never been changed and it's been past it's time to do so but I have noticed that it's getting a lot more rough of a ride. I lowered it a couple years ago 2 inches in the front with spindles, and 3 inches in the back with blocks. That caused it to ride very smooth until i would hit a big
I have coil over shocks and I lowered my truck 3 inches in the back but I think that the shocks are holding it up in the air still should I put regular shocks on it before anything else
Are there bushings on the lower end of these? On mine looks like there is on factory but none with the new
Good video.
@1aauto My rear end on my S10 is super soft. Rear end literally bounces over railroad tracks. Would that be bad shocks? Thanks for your time
if I push on either end of my truck(L or R, F or B), it has a lot of springiness to it, but always returns back to its proper height, does that necessarily mean I need both front and rear shocks? when I am carrying heavy stuff, the truck doesn't sag at all, so does that indicate my rear shocks are good or is that maintenance of height the job of the leaf springs, and i could have bad rear shocks?
@1aauto I checked more closely, none of the shocks leak, and it seems the only real bounciness is in the front left shock. I guess I didn't think that there'd be some bounce to the car when I pushed on the other 3 corners. So for $30 I'm going to replace the definitely bad one. do you have any vids on how to do front end alignments?
@1aauto if you wanted to buy a car what checks /tests /inspections would you perform on the car?
Make sure you have your magnetic tray for safe keeping
A lot simpler than working on my very rusted 2000 Envoy. One of the upper bolts is stripped. My old shocks don't have ears, they have a hole through the tab. Very little space to work on it. Any suggestions on how to get the stripped bolt out of the very narrow space?
I just had a stuck front lower shock bolt. It was stuck to the metal in the shock itself. I got the nut off just fine but the bolt was literally rusted to the shock. After half a can of pb penetrating oil and 37 hammer whacks I had nothing. I had to hammer the left side while impact driving the right side for about 20 minutes while spraying penetrating oil the whole time. I broke the washer in process but ended up getting the bolt out unscathed. NEVER GIVE UP! it can all be replaced.
If you didn't need to loosen any of the suspension pieces than you should be fine.
Lol this made it look too easy. Bottom of the rear shock was practically welded on there. Had to cut the bolt off the bracket, drill out a 9/16 hole and put grade 8 bolts through it. That was the passenger side I have no desire the do the driver side right now lol. I’ve never seen shocks so shot though for 160,000 miles on my truck. Every one was blown completely
Great video, like any other, likely you do it on "my" chevy truck. Thanks a lot !
+mattz90 Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Im guessing u do the front one's the same way?
Great video! On the top bolts, are there nuts on the other side that you need to keep in place with a wrench when unbolting? Also, am I correct in assuming the process is the same for an 01 Blazer?
You guys ae awesome thank you
Seems silly to have to say this, but: if you take bolts off, and you are going to re use them when they are rusty: use a wire brush of some sort to clean the rust off before you try to put them back in. If you can also get into the holes, clean those too.
+Eric Tompkins Thank you for checking us out, as well as the advice. This would certainly be useful to other DIYers! 1aauto.com
This video helped a bunch thanks bud!
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Very Helpful 5 stars
How long is that extension?
I bought a 1996 blazer. I don't see rear shocks on it. Does my vehicle have rear shocks? Thanks in advance.
@0johnnyynnhoj0 Only front for a 2WD right now.
stupid but serious question, what would happen if you drove without shocks?
Great video!
awesome video!
I have a 1998 s10 my rear passenger shock upper right bolt clip rotted and cant get it out can some body help me?
Thank you so much!
cool cool,,like your videos very helpful and entreging.
+Dennis Wiggins Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&NwvhT78juHI
You do great videos
make a video replacing the rear shackles on a s10 please, ty
+Loser Thank you for checking us out. We will keep this in mind moving forward for a future upload! 1aauto.com
could bad shock absorbers also cause your truck to sit low in the back?
Thanks for watching. Yes bad or leaking struts can make the vehicle sit a little lower.
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
The only thing is. Most of us youtubing this is doing it on the ground.
Should have put into at the end
I was taking out the rear shocks when the inner bushing stayed on the bolt not sure how to get it off. any ideas
You may be able to use a pair of pliers to grab hold of it and twist it off. Hope this helps you out.
very good!!!!!!!
+Jacob Petit Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Would this help if the rear was sagging?
+geboyz If the rear is sagging due to a worn set of shocks, replacing them should help. Here is a link to them replacement shocks that we carry which are shown in this video. www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&NwvhT78juHI
hi...how can I buy your magnetic tray?
easy as 123 thanks
I have a 1985 Chevy S10 and the bolt broke on the bottom what do I do
It broke me taking out the back shock
The bolt broke me taking off the shock and back what do I do
71 sport custom ford
and if none of these options work harbor freight sells a 20 dollar electric cut off tool u could use to cut the end of the bolt off
it'd be awesome if you'd show how to do this without using a freaking car lift. I don't have a car lift in my toolbox at home.
+Khay Honestly, there are two reasons we use the lift: 1) It improves the ability of the camera being able to capture what's going on due to increased light and clearance, and 2) Lifts are awesome tools. In the absence of having a lift, make sure you are jacking your vehicle up on a stable surface and that the jack is secured and in good working order. Safety...always! For anyone else looking to replace their shocks and struts, 1A Auto offers the parts here: www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Chevy/S10-Pickup/-/-/2001?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Ok so I took my chevy s10 extreme in today for an oil change and an alignment. The guy calls me back and says I need front and rear shocks, an idler arm (which I knew I needed). He wanted to charg me 953.28 for the parts and labor. Can someone please reasure me that he was trying to fuck me and that I am not going crazy?