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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ม.ค. 2023
- Get insights on my work: / miragec
We all know humidity is bad for filament, but did you know it is that bad?
Take care of your fibre infused filaments by storing them properly and drying them before use:
► Get an Eibos filament dryer (up to 70C): amzn.to/3XKYx2i
OR make a 💰CHEAP dual spool 70C filament dryer from a vegetable dehydrator: 😎
► amzn.to/3lb2gb2
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Amazing! Finally, a video to show to all the skeptics. Great insights as always.
Thank you my friend! I wanted to make a point out of it since it can have a HUGE impact on print quality. 🍻 cheers!
Many people will just thank you, so I will also recognize the effort on the video itself, amazing editing, script, on point narration and a very detailed (but not boring!) presentation.
Great work. You are making science.
WOW! thank you!
Somehow Olivier keep producing the most interesting videos about 3D printing in the entire 3D printing youtube community, for over 2 years now
How does he do that?
Magic
Thank you! One little step at the time... yeah... time! I need to 3D print time...
@@MirageC Miragic
usually i just dry any spool i plan to use for printing before use.
gives me much more consistent results, no matter if its a old spool or a new one fresh out the box.
I do have to fight some humidty over the year, so i use a drybox and reverse bowden to keep it in line.
Thanks, i love the deep dive explanation, not just "its humidity". Im switching from PETG to ABS for that reason, drying for 12 H before a print is to much for me.
Yep. I noticed the same thing anecdotally. I keep all my filaments( pla,abs,pc,nylon) in a big ip67 bin with a lot of color changing desiccant at the bottom. Dust can also be an issue if filaments are left exposed. I haven’t had any issues switching to this method. Keep up the good videos.
Thanks !!!! Each of your videos are a must to see. 👍👍👍
It is something well known, but there you point it out with a great explanation :) Thanks.
Theoretically, you could have a tiny heater in-line between the spool and the extruder. Heating enough to evaporate moisture but not deform the filament would be a challenge, though.
I mean that would be an interesting project yeah, but i think far easier solution is to have have an drier with spooling cylinder.
Have a look at Thordsen3d or Drywise ;-)
Or keep your filament in a drybox
I was just binge watching your videos and low&behold I catch a new one 7 minutes after posting! Awesome!
That is awesome! great timing! welcome aboard :)
Finally someone point out the issue! Humidity can be a pain for GF or CF composite filament. I have been using vacuum bag(and a bit of desiccant) for store them about a year ago and the result quite is consistent. I still have to dry them from time to time but a least I don't have to do it so often. Thanks for your great work!
I had the exact problem shown in your 'bad' print, I examined Z-axis rod wobble, and many other possible causes. I found it was a problem that would come and go.
Now I will examine the moisture levels in my filament and see if that fixes it. Thank you.
hope you can find the root of your issue.
excellent showcase example 👏😎
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the visit :)
wow. thanks man...that's it! Wonderful short and precise video artwork!
Glad you liked it!
I store my filament in an IKEA Samla bin. I put weather stripping along the top edge to create a seal. I use some printed clips to keep it sealed tight. At the bottom of the container I have a gallon of orange indicating silica gel (the blue stuff is toxic) in fine mesh bags. I can store 9 spools of filament in the sealed container. The silica gel can be dried out in the oven and reused.
I think I had seen this setup on CNC Kitchen a while ago. So far it's worked great.
Also this new opening with all the gears...damn I liked that
That's definitely an interesting experiment and result. I'm usually not too bad about it but I'll be sure not to leave my cf petg in my printer after a print is done and get it right back into storage.
I also use my food dehydrator for drying but have implemented another kitchen appliance for storage. I found out that all of my rolls of filament fit in the large size foodsaver vacuum seal bags. I just leave the bags extra long so that I can trim the top off, do a print, then reseal them in the same bag again so it is less waste each time.
Great video! Thank you for being so thorough
Glad it was helpful!
You let us wait for too long! :P
As you correctly find out - CF captures a lot of water within the cavities. Thats also a very big problem in aerospace industry, where parts are designed to be on a certain weight. Weight gain must be concerned due to the raise of carbon parts on aircrafts overtime. Actually, weight decides prices of a product. But it will be heavier overtime. So as a customer you loose in this situation :D
Exactly! I have been working in aerospace for 25 years. Water is such an enemy in so many aspects when it comes to aircraft.
This is why i have my filament inside a enclosed printer enclosure 😁noticed this a few years ago when printing large PETG prints, the top of the prints started to show strings 🤔so i pushed my brains cells together, and they gave me the idea
Anywho, I've been thinking of connecting a stepper motor in parallel to my extruder so i can draw the filament in without resistance from a large dry box. Maybe even make a dry cabinet. But I'm sure I'm too lazy and a 1KG spool fits perfectly inside my 3D printer
Some years ago, while printing during a rainy day, I brought my laundry to dry, a few meters away from my printer. Few minutes later, the extruder was clogged, long portion of the filament was stuck in the heatbreak, and I was unable to solve the issue until it stopped raining and my loundry out of the room. And such issues did happen multiple times in the same conditions. For sure humidity has an impact, sometimes way more that what we could imagine.
For my filament storage, I've only used a bog standard utility box with one of those closet dryer thingies you get on the supermarket, with that round hygrometer you've got as well thrown in there as-is.
No rubber seals or anything even, that much is enough for ~30% humidity inside the box and the desiccant pack lasts quite long for like a dollar.
For anyone replicating this be aware that some brands might be chemically made to saturate to ~50% which is a healthy level for human breathing, not what you want for filaments tho. Also that's the most el-cheapo solution, I do suggest at least some seals, I'm just too lazy and got cheap filament and nothing fancy.
So I will build a dry box now, definitely worth the money if it saves me this headache
I keep all my filament stored in a sealed container with desiccant. The IRIS 46 quart weathertight container works great for filament storage and I can fit 10-16 rolls of filament in 1 of them. I have 2 of those containers with about 2.5 lbs (about 1.1 kg) of desiccant in each one and it keeps my filament dry. I even put a humidity meter in each one that data log humidity over time so I can check the app and see that humidity in those boxes has never gone about 20%, usually it's around 15%.
You may be able to get away with less dessicant, but the 2.5 lbs works good. Before, I only had about 1/2 lb (1/4 kg) of dessicant in each container, and that kept the humidity at about 30%.
I recommend buying the WiseDry 5 lb container of desiccant that has 10% colored indicator beads ($29.99 on Amazon currently). Don't buy desiccant that is 100% colored as the indicator reduces its water absorbing ability. Also, don't get the blue desiccant, the chemical it contains is very toxic and is even banned in the EU. Orange stuff technically is also toxic, but much less so.
I keep my filaments dried and in air-tight containers, but I was seeing something very similar to you. I verified that my extruders were still perfectly calibrated, and I was seeing the exact same issue on 3 completely different machines (Snapmaker 2.0, Ender 5 Plus, and Rat Rig V-core 3.1). The only thing that changed for me is that I upgraded my slicers to the latest versions. I was seeing major over extrusion (as much as 20%), more than I had ever seen before, so I decided to calibrate the filaments using the "Extrusion multiplier" and "Shrinkage" settings. Once I did that, it was like night an day. The over extrusion completely disappeared, and the Z-wall inconsistencies also diminished to almost nothing. And this was for ALL 3 PRINTERS.
Something was changed in the last year+ to PrusaSlicer, which has made it's way into all of the derivatives as well, and has a significant negative impact on extrusion. Previously, the variances between filaments didn't make as much of a difference as the current code does. Maybe it's better accuracy that is leading to the issue, but something should have been stated in the release notes, as I wasted over 2 weeks trying to figure out why things that had been working perfectly for years, had all of a sudden stopped working as expected.
excellent! i think that I've really been underestimating humidity and moisture issues, and this really reinforced the idea. I store in ziplocks with dessicant packs, but I rarely pre-dry in a dehydrator. I have a ploymaker box full of dessicant that I change out regularly, and the guage always seems to be at 10% unless I take the top off. I will often store my most used filament in it so it's always ready.
I think I need to up my storage game, and maybe even get a dehumidifier for my apartment. Might get a second humidity guage just to see if the one on my box is bad.
I have had so many continued problems with my prints, and this pretty much listed them.
Thanks, I think it'll help.
Thanks for the feedback. A dehumidifier for the entire apartment might not be a good idea though. Your body needs some humidity in the air ;) . And humid air is also more efficient to keep you warm during winter. Humidity acts as a heat capacitor.
When i first got into 3d printing I discovered this after hours of frustration. Unfortunately where I live it's 100% humidity and 30 degrees celsius which makes even pla useless without a filament dryer
Nice video! I store my filaments into a plastic box with 1kg of silicagel on its floor. I've bought one wich changes its color when it absorbes moisture so i know when it's time to dry it (an electric oven does the work, 1 hour at 150°C).
In addition this morning i ve added one of those cheap hygrometers to the box to keep better control. Greetings from Argentina!
Upgrade to molecular sieve. Comparable price but so much better than silica gel.
@@daliasprints9798 oh i didn't know anything about it, i will research some info and also if it is available in my country. Thanks a lot!
1 hour at 150 (F) I assume 😉, if not, your oven might do the printing work before the printer itself ;) Thanks for your comment ☺
@@MirageC thanks for your answer! No, I meant 150°C what i dry there is the silicagel. When i have to dry a filament i go for a lower temp, somewhat 60-70 for abs and tpu (btw i foud TPU loves moisture) 😅
Clear plastic bags and containers, even when air-tight, let moisture through. Metallized bags and lots of dessicant make a difference, but I recommend getting into the habit of drying everything before use. A cheap food dehydrator, a cardboard box cut and taped into a cylinder, and you can stack multiple spools for drying at the same time.
I find it strange that so many in the 3D printing community deny the effect that moisture has. Brittle filament, overextrusion, stringing, rough outer walls or top surfaces, infill sticking up and catching the nozzle, gaps, bad bed adhesion, bad layer adhesion, failed overhangs? 4-8 hours in a dryer and it will probably go away.
learned this lesson long time ago when i first got my printer, turned everything couldnt figure out why. now i kept everything in a ziplock bag with those do-not-eat packs.
cheap and works.
Great work
I have been printing a lot with Carbon Fiber Nylon 6 and 12 The six was from eSUN and the 12 is from 3DX Tech. two totally different quality filaments. The Xtech is def a really hi quality product but eSUN was still nice. The two of of them out of the box required a minimum of 24hrs to dry and print nice. I tend to keep them in my eSUn dryer while printing to prevent longer prints from having issues.
I currently store my filament in a smartstore box with about 4kg of re-useable dessicant beads in it, filament i've had trouble with due to moisture has become completely dry over several months in there, though for quicker drying i have a similar food dehydrator that i use :)
Cool video. It would be interesting to compare CF and GF in terms of absorbing moisture and impact on printing quality, as well as physical properties of printed parts
Great suggestion!
Great video, good explain and very detailed.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I too, am seeing a consistent banding which I knew wasn't anything else. Especially since it wasn't there the other day and nothing has changed, other than me cooking in the kitchen where my printer has sat with spools on it for the last few days. I also have lots of tea. I'm guessing it might be time to buy a dehumidifier.
build a drybox
saved me so much time
just dry the desiccant don't dry the spools
very good video! thank you very much!
Not kidding: started watching this at the same time that I was printing a printer part in tritan... oh, boy, it is horrible, overextruded and the lines are wobbly... yes, I left it on the printer for a few days, and it is rainy season, lesson learned!
I too have a food dehumidifier to pre-dry my filaments, I print from a heated dry box (all but PLA), and I store filaments in vacuum bags prior to use. That's all filaments regardless of type.
I store mine in airtight containers with silica gel beads with a humidity sensor in each container, they normaly sit around 15% or less humidity.
I find Real "lexan" PC is a pain for me 9085 and 1010 pei as well, super important they are dry to the level needed Great job!
Yet we still get people that argue when they're asked if their filament is dry... Again, and again... It depends on the material used.
I store my filament inside food grade vacuum bags together with two packs of color change moisture absorber. Keeps them fresh and I didnt have any Problems with this so far.
I have had this same issue with cf nylon and other filaments with blends like cf. I always store them in dry boxes that are sealed. They have a ptfe tube connected to I never need to open them.
amazing, thank you alot
Really good video! I always have problems with CF filament. Now I will do your method. Off question, what print are you using in this video?
You mean what printer? It's a HevORT: www.hevort.com
I just bought a esun lite box, n use it as filament spool holder+ dryer at the same time, I don't know if it is a good idea to warming filament while printing, I didn't print any cf yet but I ordered a abs cf so I will test that. thanks to you for your informative researches
Interesting video as always 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Just wondering if you will continue hotend comparison?
Great video though, thx
Salut cousin, encore une superbe vidéo qui repousse les frontières de la compréhension. Encore Merci :)
Merci! :)
This is something I never had thought about before, this information could change the way I treat my filament.
I would like to know if it's necessary to store any filament air tight and with less humidity or if you can put it anywhere and dry it when you need it.
Would the quality be the same?
This seems to possibly be my issue, even with taking the variable of everything including the filament diameter, I was some how having some crazy over extrusion on first couple layers, I tried everything from flow, and recalibrating everything over and over again. And all that but I forgot I had the spool sitting above the printer for over a week or two, and two weeks ago it’s was printing fine. I should have dried it at that point because the room dehumidifier is just not enough..
Nailed that one perfectly. I’ve printed enough nylons to know what moisture looks like now lol
I use for all My Filaments, Even PLA in Ikea 365+ 10.6l Volume Boxes, I have Printed Outlets, Plugs for the outlets, Silica Gel Container, Hydrometers, spool Holders all in such a Box. I regular change the Silica perls and regenerate them in my Oven. So the Humidity ist very low in the Boxes and you can even Print out of them. Just Search 365+ in Thingiverse etc.
I store all my filaments in dryboxes with a LOT of silica gel inside. That doesnt say that it will eliminate humidity but it still wont be as bad in long term. In my experience CF, PETG, PCTG, Nylon, abs and abs blends, FLEX filaments all have the same problems. PETG and Nylon are worst of the bunch coz they can suck moisture out of air in terms of 2-4 hours (so printing out of another drybox with silica gel).
Dryer is a.must coz sometimes I got "wet" unusable spool out of the box. Also fun fact PLA also tends to.have this problem but it gets brittle in the process.
My filament is stored in it's box, but while I keep the silica bags in there I don't seal them otherwise.
This has not caused any more issues than a bit of stringiness in my now over 3 year opened rolls of both PLA and PETG.
But I do have one roll of "gold" coloured ABS, which seems to behave the same as yours, but even worse.
To the point of making the extruder slip from the back pressure, while severely over-extruding to almost a foam.
And the Prusa Mini is notorious for having the feeder profile clog up, causing the machine fail to extrude when this happens.
While I could dry the filament, I am using it as-is as I use this to stress-test my modification of the extruder ("Material Tolerant Extruder", on Printables).
This for the piece of mind of knowing that if it can handle THIS rubbish, any (long) print with slightly dubious material should be fine.
So far it does, but the mod needs more long-term testing to see whether my cleaning wheel damages the profile and the PTFE guide holds up.
Along with that, I have started using the unusual texture it prints in in decorative prints too, so plenty of reason to keep this as a print challenge.
I use 10liter buckets with a self designed insert that holds about 3-400 grams of dried silica beads. Each bucket holds three spools. Never had any encounter with humidity problems.
That is a good way to do it! thanks for sharing
For me i don’t have fibre filament at the moment, only normal abs, tpu and pla. Some spools i dont use for a while go into vacuum bags, and the everyday spools are in normal bags or buckets with silica. Next question on that topic would be, how long do i really have to dry. I had a bad spool and dried it (about 600gr of filament were on it) it lost 0gr during processing but artefacts were gone
so it's just the same old problem in the end :o
but that's still good since it's known how to fix it without changes in hardware :D
Does it work if we just get a seal box and some silica gel or off the shelf dehumidifier product?
I usually just left the filament on the table if I need another colour.
For certain types of filament like Nylon and PETG you need active dehydration. Since recording this video, I am adding all my CF filaments to that list. I am working on a small video about using a vegetable dehydrator from Amazon. - I added the link in the description
As a materials scientist of sorts, my suspicion is that most black filaments will be more susceptible to this issue with humidity than other colors. I would imagine most of the black color in black filaments is from carbon black, which is a high surface area material and will likely also have high porosity (these factors are specifically controlled in carbon black manufacturing to achieve certain properties).
Wow! this is a fantastic piece of data! I need to test this! Thank you!
I love your Intro!
Thank you :)
I wonder if cf fimilents could be degassed at some stage of the manufacturing to remove the porosity.
Ill openly admit im am probably your least patient fan, A fan none the less. But i can appreciate your video editing 3d models and lack of just setting up a camera and blabing on forever. So for that it was worth the wait.
Though as soon as I seen the video title I was instantly pissed. Ive been battling these z ribs for almost a month now.
Thank you John for this honest comment. I have spent 2 years of my life investigating what I thought was Z wobbling. Sooo many parameters will have different degrees of impact. I invite you to reach out through our HevORT Facebook page or Discord. Eventhough it is not directly HevORT related, since we are all using the same parts and same technology, I am sure we could bring some added value at trying to identify your issue.
@@MirageC Most definitely will, Thanks again for the hard work most of is are too busy or just too lazy to do so thoroughly.
I got filamnet in a ikea samla box with some silica gel in bags, but lately it seems like humidity rose inside to 30-40% and now I feel like my petg is steaming when printing, is 30-40% already enough?
I have a CF-PETG that looks EXACTLY like this when printed with no fan. Blobs, swelling, exactly what your abs did. However it prints clean if I use 40% fan speed or more. Now I'm wondering if humidity also is the problem in mine but somehow stops affecting the print when using high fan speeds.
I dry my filaments before use and print everything out of a drybox containing a large pack of silica gel containing an indicator. If the pack is getting marginal I'll frequently toss it in the dyer with the filament.
Finally the result 🙂
Darn, I thought it was going to be a much harder to diagnose issue lol. Still a great video!
The importance of humidity in filament is etxremely underrated in the 3D printing community.
And to no surprise ... as most 3D-Printers come with a spool-holder. And even companies like Prusa are showing their printers running off of spools on fresh air ... as most TH-camrs do.
Filament should never be on fresh air.
It should be dried, when you take it out of the box (usually it's not dry, when you get it), and then it should be stored in an air-tight container with dried SilicaGel and a humidity below 10%.
Then you only print out of that box through a PTFE tube directly into your extruder.
In a 50% humidity environment even PLA takes less than 30 minutes to show significant effects of humidity compared to really dry filament.
The dry one won't droop out of the nozzle when you're not extruding. The "wet" one comes out some centimeters.
It might look ok on most prints, but you will get those branches on longer travel-moves (especially when your printer is not super-fast). Also durability or layer-adhesion might be affected.
The g-code vizualisation at 0:53 is beautiful! how did you do that?
I used Prusa slicer to save the Gcode path as an .obj file. Then rendered it in Fusion360 😉
@@MirageC cool, thanks!
I generally assume all my filament is saturated. My spool is mounted inside my Voron chamber, and I always warm up and dry every new spool. This keeps all the filament totally dry at all times.. PEI is the worst I have ever seen for absorption. A dry spool will become totally unusable after being exposed to normal air for probably 30 minutes! I suspect that PEI is more hygroscopic than the desiccant packs and is actually pulling moisture from the desiccant! PEI filament needs to be dried at 140C for several hours or hotter to properly drive off the water.
If you have any wet filament left, try printing with it at a very fadt extrusion rate. I never dry my filament ever since I started printing fast, it doesnt seem to affect anything ehen you print fast, and I think this is possibky due to water particles not being abke to evaporate and explode fast enough. Just a thought.
I think it depends on the type of moisture. Speed might compensate for hygroscopy to a point, but for droplets trapped in fiber, this wont work I am affraid.
Especially on ABS or other moderate temperature melting filaments.
@@MirageC Havemt tried that with ABS, but it worked GREAT with Nylon. In slow printing days I couldnt print it at all, it was a nightmare. Now I dont even dry it, and you know I am in a swamp, so its WET over here :D
@@MirageC The water that diffuses into the filament does not simply evaporate during printing. It is responsible for a process called hydrolysis, which damages the molecular structure of the plastic. This is comparable to sunlight, for example. Even if you can't see any problems visually, the plastic is still damaged on a molecular level by the moisture.
There's always something isn't there... Surprising that the demo worked so poignantly, but very relevant.
I store my filament out in the open, and then I dehydrate it for 6-10 hours before I plan on using it 👀 Usually my PLA is fine, but my PETG will get crunchy after 2-3 days out in the open
Even with PETG I had problems. That's why I now build filament dry boxes out of which I can directly print. And it's so good! And those boxes only cost me 45€ and are with a heated bed.
U r smart like usual 😉💯💪
Thank you ☺
I keep the humidity in my entire print room at just over 20%. This is for all the PLA I am printing (I have over 100kg, a lot of the spools are stored open). I still dry technical materials conventionally before every use. And every new PLA roll is dried once before the first use. Maybe overkill, but the difference is there even for PLA.
I believe you! I was stunned to realise how much it affects all materials.
I agree. PLA is affected than more people realize. Especially, noticeable when printing at higher temps for high flow.
@MirageC where can I find that fan duct seen at 1:45?
We are working at testing this guy and will be releasing for various print heat shortly.
IMO drying should have been step 1 with any abs print. I was shocked, not that this worked, but that you weren't drying it in the first place.
This filament was actively dried a few months back, then stored in a sealed bag with desiccant. ABS is a lot less hygroscopic than Nylon or PETG, so I genuinely thought it would have been fine. But CF taught me otherwise.
As always very interesting video. Sorry if this question has been raised before, but how to make such render 0:57
Thank you in advance)
No worries! Its a trick one of our HevORT member showed me a while back. Using Prusa slicer you can export your sliced model as an .OBJ file. then imported back to fusion to apply appearance and to render.
Wow!
Makes me still wonder how many people still think humidity has zero impact on print quality.
No clue... but even myself was very surprised with the level of impact!
0.54 width with 0.5 nozzle, do you always use same ratio?
Can you link the build for the custom dryers you have on the shelf?
here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3238988
@@MirageC Thanks a lot!
I don’t care about pla und use it for most of my work due to it’s simplicity. PETG i store in a vacum bag with silica gel. And from time to time i dry it (and the gel) on my 3d printers heatbed enclosed with cardboard from an amazon box.
Humidity is a huge factor in plastic part manufacturing. However I am still not using a heating chamber or any of that lol since all the other quality influeces are still there.
I simply don´t care and accept that cheap 3D printing equipment has it´s limitation but hey I am still getting a usable part out of a 300 bucks machine, so who cares.
ahh i have had this issue with my cf nylon, i guess i didnt dry it properly
Impressive. But somehow I just don't want to dry my filament for several hours using a lot of energy before every print. Are there better solutions? With som old PLA, I had the phenomenon that it got very brittle. I thought, it had "dried out" - can that be? Maybe, on the contrary, it has absorbed a lot of humidity and thus has gotten brittle? What do you experts think on that?
My observations are the same with old PLA. I am not sure yet that drying bring them back entirely. Could this be aging of the polymer chains that gets them to retract and shrink then creating micro cracks. Will need to do some research on that topic.
Wet PLA seems to be brittle - I don’t know why. If you dry it, it will recover.
Ideally, you would run all filament from a dry-box. This is what is done in industrial injection-moulding processes, where plastic granules are dried in large hoppers and then pre-heated prior to injection.
Dual gears are a big problem as well. You can´t mesh two gears perfectly with eatch other AND have them be adjustable to the filament, it simply does not work.
You need one driving gear and 2 idler bearings to guide the filament.
Hm, now wondering if it is possible to "consistently" oversaturate the filament with water and also have "consistent" extrusion width by adjusting parameters to end up back at the desired line width.
To simulate those expanding foam light weight filaments which are usually printed with 50% extrusion multiplier but with the usual carbon fibre filaments. :)
I would tempt to say that it would be difficult. and as you print, perhaps the core of the spool is not as wet... Safer to just dry I think.
@@MirageC I think with drying the issue still remains with filament deeper in the spool, given the filament has been absorbing moisture for any length of time.
Longer drying sessions would likely be necessary?
Somehow in my 3d printer room humidity became 68% for prolonged period. Quality of prints was out of control. Even printing retraction tests for petg and pctg was nigrmare untill i got filament dryers
Is it more difficult to dry carbon filled filament as a result of this?
I would say that just as a clothing wash load, the more water there is, the longer it takes to get it out.
@@MirageC Makes sense! I'm wondering if the usual desiccant and heat drying methods are enough to overcome the capillary force, or if the filament is pseudo-permanently waterlogged
Interesting thank you . Consequently I tried fitted ball bearings in lieu of the second filament gear.
Yess.. it did visibly improve.. some :-)..thank you.)
Just bought/ordered a Cheapish Lite type bmg extruder ( sort of clone) from aliexpress .
It uses one piece Machined gears and actual Ball bearing races in the driven idler...rather than those ridiculousy crap Teeny Caged Needle types..( which imo barely meet the description of 'bearing' ).
Hopefully these monolithic Gears can be utilised in place of the surprisingly Poor .. Bondtech efforts.
Or at least form the backbone of an accurate extruder unit . Time will tell..
Bondtech have release a new gear assembly! Looks much better! I have measured one of the 5 they sent me and it is great. I will make a video on it as soon as outside temperature allows me to heat the garage enough to work in it.
Well, guess I'm printing straight from the dryer
Some filament will benefit from this indeed... I am ordering one of those Sunlu 70C spool dryer right now myself!
@MirageC strongly recommend the eibos. It tested and performed significantly better than competition. Some other fellow on TH-cam did a lot of humidity tests and it dominated
@@rauldelgadillo8447 thank you for the feedback! I will redirect my order to this Eibos!
@MirageC th-cam.com/video/6VB-pEvSed4/w-d-xo.html
That's the test if you're interested. Eibos made a single spool version that also does better than everything.
BTW big fan and I have the hextruvort waiting to be installed on my ender.
Have you found the food dehydrator did dry your filament?
Es-tu québécois ? Excellents tes vidéos !
Yes! je suis Québecois :)
Moral of story: don't rely on a dehydrator. Buy a Sunlu S2 and use that as your spool holder/filament dryer. I find heating it up for an hour then putting a small item like some foam in the lid to create a gap for moisture to escape speeds up the drying process and gets filament to 16-18% from 40+ in just a few hours. Finally: I agree it's the CF that made this more susceptible to moisture. Don't ever make us wait again.
👏
Living in the tropics means i gotta dry every spool before and during print...