Inside a cheap Neon flicker-flame lamp from eBay.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- While looking absolutely nothing like a real flame, the neon flicker flame lamps are strangely pleasing to look at. This is one that came directly from China via eBay, and had a very intriguing manufacturing fault.
I'm guessing that the reason the electrodes went white when the lamp was opened is because they also have the function of a getter which absorbs residual oxygen in the lamp. I can't find anything about the electrode material or coating online though. I do have some different lamps that have shiny metal flame electrodes, but they gradually reduced in the flickering effect over time.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
"The vice of knowledge. [glass cracks] Ah, it's just released the knowledge." - love it.
Reminds me of my old history teacher at school in the 1970s when corporal punishment (hitting the culprit's bottom with a trainer shoe or a cane) was still legal. He used to threaten that he would apply "the staff of knowledge to the seat of understanding".
I swear that calculator gets bigger every time I see it!
not so sure its A4 size like mine
lol. I did not noticed, had to recheck it :D that's a CALCULATOR :D
Maybe BigClive's hands are shrinking ...?
I feel the same about your mother
can it do bigger sums because it's bigger ?
I bought two for $1.50 each at Walmart, sold near Halloween as a novelty. They were surprisingly nice, having a clear standard globe rather that the flame-shaped "candelabra" shape. They draw a mere 3 watts.. And are said to last 2000 hours.
"what's the worst that can happen?" - Big Clive 1969-2017
Close... 1965.
big Bang and all the lights out in the street !
thehappylittlefox aka benji Thats more like Photonicinduction style... wizzard of light and darkness :)
but but 69' heheheh
A special year, atmospheric nuclear testing was banned, then you came along to make up for it. ;)
I did my best too, nearly blew my parents house up several times before age 13 and electrocuted myself at 2. Eavesdropped my elder brothers bedroom when they had girls visiting. Fun times!
I thought I'm weird because I love checking this kind of things but view on this video is giving me hope that I'm not alone! Good job Clive!
15:28 "Black-black-black color code of a resistor - it means that it was cooking-hot"
yes it cooked the orange colours to browny brown
Cookie hot. =P
it would eventually go back to being a nice glowing orange when it burnt out completely ! briefly
Black is the new orange :)
is that so !
the small glass bulb contains a mixture of neon and other gases at a low pressure and two electrodes (an anode and a cathode).
When sufficient voltage is applied and sufficient current is supplied between the electrodes, the lamp produces an orange glow discharge.
a small amount of ammonia is added to the electrodes keeping the arc from covering the entire anode and cathode.
the arc is smaller than the anode or cathode so it tends to jump all over the surfaces making the flicker you see.
when you broke the bulb the ammonia-oxidizing.
lol, I love that I'm not the only one with a light bulb collection.
I actually have some of those light bulbs that were used in The LCD watches before like the Indiglo watch came out subminiature linear incandescent.
There are some miniature bulbs similar still available evidently but they're very hard to find and Specialty they use them sometimes in model railroading I bet you those things probably cost less than those because of the quantity they were used in I've got both still plus a lot of the older grain of wheat and grain of rice bulbs that were 1.5 volts and 3 volts as well got some do filled it ones as well but vary in voltages that stuff I saved whatever I could get it.
I'm into Lego adults have Lego actually I found it those miniature bulbs fit easily through the holes in like a headlight right angle breaks.
I've used it to create working like lamps and all for the like of sit-ups yeah not entirely a purist obviously.
Cutting Gorilla Glue Sakura Edge I know but when you do something custom it's okay in my book.
I even have a box with a built with flicker LEDs from flickering LED candles to do fireplaces.
Also a lot of those I recovered from Dickens Village and like Department 56 like stuff like that interpreted the subminiature incandescent NYSEG use they already had leads attached as well
In addition back in the old days where that was mainly what was used really before there were white LEDs which at a time did not exist.
But the often used Amber LEDs once those things start going LED.
But the great thing about the incandescent as you could run them on sit-in series to match other voltages you're using even running on the official Lego system voltage.
And also under running them on that as well would increase lifetime but don't know what they read but I didn't want to push it at all.
Also I remember at the fabric store running across these modules that were meant for lighting various things hobby shops as well they had groups of I think it was 10 some major incandescents double A battery pack also there were some that had Chaser circuits on them noticed it always start in the same position same bulb every time.
Upon applying power.
Antop home I could put that to use.
By the way there are five groups of two flashed in sequence.
Think you get where I'm going movie theater with working Marquis.
Later on once I became available I was able to do that hundred percent Lego with the Lego fiber optic system in a motor there you go hundred percent by go chasing Marquee lights unfortunately just in red oh well but it was 100% Lego
obviously the flicker is caused by the battle of good versus evil!
Good being the cheap Chinese neon lamp, evil being the iPad. Am i right?
its the remnants of a long ago star wars light sabre battle !
@@thehappylittlefoxakabenji8154 think that's what they're getting at I believe
whatever was coating the electrodes it definitely started oxidising as soon as you cracked the glass so I dont think you can really tell anything from the resistance measurements after its encounter with the vice
yeme Yeah I thought the same. And they also kept getting dodgier by the minute. Pretty sure it's mildly toxic if not extremely. XD
Perhaps a barium coating of some kind? Certainly acted like the barium getter in a vacuum tube when exposed to air...
"It was being grilled. It wasn't having a good time!" LOL !!
Fastest oxidizing material I have seen... from black to gray/white in a minute.
my barbecue briquettes do that in seconds - best observed in bright sunlight with a brisk sou'westerly gusting to 35 Knots.
Reminds me of what goes black, white, black, white, red? (Something to do with a set of stairs, gravity, a nun and a sharp instrument.)
The common barbecue charcoal briquette sold in stores contains lime as an indicator agent, which is why the briquette turns a uniform white color when burned.
Natural charcoal will not turn a white color when burned, you'll either get grey ash or black dust when combustion is finished.
The briquette contains clay. as a binder, to increase heat capacity and probably slow the burn. but nirmal charcoal also makes white ash. These are the minerals, e.g. potassium (carbonate)
Have you ever smashed a radio valve (USA esp. "tube") and watched the gettering go from shiny metallic black to powdery white in a couple of seconds?
@@28YorkshireRose12 yes I have seen that happen after dropping it.
Somebody else I have to drop another one once for some reason I like a paint can or something like that or something somewhere full of water hit the edge when the tube got dropped this was a different tube of course part of the to move at least that was still attached to the base contain the get her and all that the actual get her ring that wound up in the water and actually started fizzing that was rather unusual thing to see wonder what the physics behind it that is or at least the chemistry
The black coating is barium, I believe, both elemental and with traces of barium nitride, the former readily oxidizing in air as you observed. It's not terribly good for you, but I doubt such a tiny amount could cause any harm.
If you think about it these are sold to home and apartment renters in the local home and hardware stores, and they don't have big orange warning labels wrapped around them that say DANGER! PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY! SUPER TOXIC RISK! USE ONLY IN APPROVED BLASTPROOF SOLID LEAD FIXTURES!
Something like this is going to occasionally get broken around a home, even if there are babies present. And yet the department of Health and Coddling lets them be sold. They can't be all that deadly in small quantities.
Yes, and fluorescent tubes tubes contain a small amount of mercury. It's all about likelihood of causing harm. With lethal doses being 3-5 g of even the most soluble Barium compounds it is extremely unlikely to cause harm. In the UK there are actually rules around fluorescent tubes that a lot of people are not aware of. It is illegal to intentionally break a fluorescent tube, if you are a business you must store used tubes in a safe and secure manner ready for recycling, tubes may not enter landfill - they must be recycled. Technically an energy saving lamp (the type with the folded tubes) are CFL - Compact FLuorescent or CCFL - Cold Cathode FLuorescent lamps and must be handled the same way. So who here just throws them in the bin?
The other distinction to be made is that a lot of heavy metal compounds remain in the body and have a cumulative toxic effect (this is particularly true of Mercury and Lead, this is why there is so much concern over water contamination of these metals and their compounds) many Barium compounds on the other hand leave the body so the effect does not build up over time.
I had to read the box twice to establish what type of bulb it was....apparently its an F-L-I-C-K-E-R bulb.
I've obviously missed a golden opportunity to fill in between the L and I with a Sharpie.
bigclivedotcom Clive, you might have just opened whole new markets for those bulbs.
it's A* flicker bulb.
In the 1970s the early home 600W lamp dimmers used a neon bulb instead of a diac to fire the triac. I made a set of six flickering dimmers by replacing the neon trigger lamps with these flicker bulbs, then wired them out to incandescent lamps in the building chandeliers. Worked quite nicely.
My guess would be the electrodes have a coating with a low work function mixture of something like BaO2/BaCO2/Ba, like in neon signs. If that's the case, the change you saw was likely the amorphous barium oxidising.
Edit: 10mintwo correctly pointed out that a barium azide/nitride combination can also be used to form the amorphous coating.
I'm glad you made this video. I bought a few and they all arrived smashed and broken :(
Places like Home Depot still have these neon flicker bulbs with the chandelier bulbs.
Resister wheel from Jaycar www.jaycar.com.au/resistance-wheel/p/RR0700
I dare people to build their own resistor substitution box or a better one called a resistor decade box. I have parts already on the way for mine. It would also be fun if he could show us how to build one as I am sure he has most of the items laying around the shop and they are dead easy to build from the way i understand it and the one I am building has almost any resistance you want to dial in. it contains 63 resistors with in my case with thumb wheel switches and with this setup I could dial in any resistance that I wanted and then find the appropriate capacitor in the standard capacitor range.
For me at least, the challenges are, the box/shell, internal wiper contacts and nice silk screened labels to get a pro look. obviously it can be made without those or made with an off the shelf rotary multi contact switch. but won't be as compact or user friendly
also, it would be neat to make a more compact one with smd resistors
The easiest way would be a breadboard with a load of resistors in with one end commoned to a lead with a croc clip then another croc clip lead with a jumper pin on the end. Ugly but functional.
I suppose. but then again if you don't want to keep the single wheel format, you might as well buy a few of these and make a proper switch box. they are fairly cheap and compact
www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?&_nkw=Rotary+DIP+Switch&_sop=15
Thanks vk3hau, as soon as I saw it I knew I MUST HAVE ONE OF THESE! :-)
Too bad it's still forty bucks; someone ought to have figured out how to make them cheaper by now…
Maybe the electrodes are stacked that way because they are all stamped with the same die from the same sheet? Otherwise they'd need to be mirrored pairs to line up and have the dark sides together. This is assuming that there really are dark and light sides.
Alec (Technology Connections) sent me over, after he posted a video about these today and I haven't seen them in use anywhere nor thought about the effect being used intentionally for several decades. The only thought of mine after watching this though: seems like less of a current-limiting resistor, and more of a thermal fuse/product lifetime-limiting resistor to me!
Clive won't cut himself with the lamp and the resistor will be 47K
The theory about the releasing of knowledge is simply brilliant ! Love your accent, too! Do not think twice, subscribe now !! greetings from Italy
Cross posting: "Technology Connections", "The decorative lamp that's built wrong on purpose" at th-cam.com/video/nyYjnV99wfM/w-d-xo.html . He works at a higher level and has some similar ideas along with some additional observation.
I'm kinda curious now if these could be lit without the flicker when slightly over driving them. Old neon light bulbs for regular lighting, like war time blackout lights (such as beehive lamp), are rather hard to find and a bit expensive for my budget.
Possibly, but electrode seems optimised to flicker.
1 handed soldering, you pro you 😀
Ordered from the same seller and expecting it to arrive any moment now. Hope mine's OK :)
*talking crap about clive having open live wires*
If I search vice of knowledge on eBay, I get nothing useful.
*wants to see a 120V between two phases at 400V* or send it to Photonicinduction
Great idea! Send one to Photonicinduction, but bypass the resistor or he will be "greatly disappointed".
Aren`t they on the same Island?
nope. but only a short hope and 300 miles drive between them
Oh ok
they could mail stuff to each other though. theyd get it the next day
If you lowered the light in the room, might the camera slow down the shutter speed to compensate?
The Cat Behaviour Channel
No, the iPad is fixed at 30fps. In lower light it would increase the exposure level but not the frame rate, which is optimised for 60Hz mains in the US.
@@WaltonPete frame rate != exposure time, which can be up to 1/2 the frame rate.
+bigclivedotcom It would be interesting to see a review of an electric fireplace. A friend's dad wired an outlet backward and when he used one the flame "animation" was backward.
color code: black, black, black, black!
Actually, I have seen a zero ohm resistor with a single black band. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link
yes they exist its just to hide a poor pcb design your not supposed to have crossovers on tracks
Same reason applies to through hole components I think.
simontay1984
nope through hole components can be placed by machines as well.
They exist just so links can be placed by the same machine that puts resistors. This supposedly saves time, energy and space as you need less machinery.
Interesting how those electrodes aren't symmetrical - in production they have to keep track of 2 different flame parts. If they designed it so they could flip them, they'd only have to make 1 part...
With regard to the Quicktest colours, Tipp-Ex and a black Sharpie makes 'em North American colours quite easily... :P
Whatever's on them electrodes, after seeing them oxidise like that, you probably wouldn't want t lick them, that's for sure... :P
See this 1966 patent for this flickering flame lamp design:
www.g3ynh.info/disch_tube/lamp/patents/US3238408.pdf
From a very quick scan of the patent documents, the inventor used Barium Azide to coat a nickel plated (??) iron electrodes, which are subsequently subjected to a number of processes before placing it into the lamp. Although I'm not entirely certain what results from those processes it appears they cook the nitrogen partially or nearly completely off leaving mostly Barium. I'm not a chemist. I'm also surmising that if only one side is coated with a material that lowers the strike threshold and the voltage kept low enough, only that side will glow.
John
Clive, you make the three hand solder look easy as pie.
Hello from Technology Connections in 2022
I would happily trade my vice of ignorance for your vice of knowledge. Vancouver Island says hello, well not all of it but...
Maybe it has a caesium coating on the electrodes or something weird like that?
Technology Connections sent me here
Cyanide powder? Eeeeh...
Anyways, got some Christmas tree lights with this type of bulb. They give an interesting effect. They're equally bright on both sides.
I've always heard people tell me the life of those bulbs are not too long I was thinking about giving you a set but my parents said oh the bulbs won't last long enough then also overtime they get less of us active and eventually just kind of glow I've noticed once what's wrong hun seen that if they do use impurities I would have that kind of get used to used up or or something like that or gets absorbed or out gases or whatever
I bought a colour changing bulb from YNAAN - Bloody thing never turned up
"You know, we could do another experiment here. We *could* do the *diode* experiment! Let's do the diode experiment, because I do have a diode."
Oh you do!? Really? Shocking! Hahaha! Keep up the great work, sir.
It's a shame you sacrificed the defective one!!! It was unique and will be hard to replace...
In my experience, the oil isn't *strictly* necessary for soldering to aluminum. Like you mention, the oil's purpose is to protect the aluminum from oxidizing again immediately after you scrub it. With a generous enough blob of solder, it'll protect it the same while you scrape the top layer with the iron either lightly or with a iron/tip you don't really care about (the $20 radio shack fire hazard I've had the same tip in for 15 years works great for that).
I use it quite a bit for simple prototyping if I don't have quite the right component handy. I always have empty cans laying around, so 5 seconds with a razor knife and some cheap harbor freight cutters, and I've got a quick'n'dirty button or battery terminal or whatever and can get back to proving to myself that the thing I want to build actually works while I wait for shipping on real parts.
Solder with a touch of magnesium added might work.
Or an argon/nitrogen nozzle on the iron tip...
It would have been easier to solder onto the blob of solder next to the glass.
3:07 did it make at least some satisfying sound ? 😁
The vice of knowledge released the noble gas... odd init when one gets squeezed that gas escapes?
The electrodes act like a getter and are probably coated in barium, they should fizz when put in water if there is still some barium left.
All the talk about the dark side, and not a single Star Wars reference?
Rather have a Pink Floyd reference than stupid Star Wars.
although i like star wars this is funny :-) I also like Pink Floyd
Do you get your money back from the sellers on junk products?
Technology Connections just did a video about these too!
I stumbled across this one again after about three years.
I forgot I had purchased some of these for use in my industrial lamps.
It was nice seeing this again, but bittersweet that you got an incorrectly assembled one.
Good thing they are super cheap.
“Oh, it just released the knowledge...”
Apparently, these type of bulbs require a very slight amount of heating and twisting of those elements in order to get the flicker effect. One way to verify this would be to shine a high power laser pointer at the elements while the bulb was on to see if the flicker pattern changes.
You don't need a laser. We've got several of these lamps in candelabra holders either side of the fireplace (put there by the previous owners of the house). We noticed that one of the lamps just glows steadily and doesn't flicker, and I'd heard that light tended to aid the discharge so I shone an LED torch at it, and the flickering perked up.
Other tests: Bringing my (probably fairly earthed) finger anywhere near the bulb altered the discharge pattern. But the best thing was to hit the bulb (gently: not hard enough to "release any knowledge"!) with an insulated rod (the handle of a screwdriver) which made the electrodes vibrate without the electrostatic effect of the earthed finger. The vibrating plates produced a tremendous discharge - presumably as the gap between them reduced and increased, affecting the striking voltage.
Something similar to selenium perhaps ?
That could be a possibility I know that there is actually some impurities deliberately introduced to cause a flicker but that's as far as I know what's going on with the flicker lamps
Hello Clive , have to say Ive just realised having been listening you your videos in the background you have an incredibly amazing voice , you should do a Radio show , even my Greyhounds are just relaxed and sleepy , love your vids by the way , thanks for taking the time to post them
Can't decide if that calculator 17:12 make me feel very young, very old or American😂
It probably emulates how babies are feeling when playing with calculator and in the same time old ppl tend to like huge things so they can see and click despite arthritis,
And well Americans just like big things..
+bigclivedotcom (almost) Every product I see you buy has a European plug on it, I'm just wondering why this may be? I'm assuming the Isle of Man uses EU plugs but then I've also seen UK plugs in your videos. Is this just the items you're buying are EU plugged or am I right in my assumptions on the standardized socket in the Isle of Man?
Most Chinese suppliers ship items with European or Chinese (like USA) plugs and a dodgy UK adaptor.
bigclivedotcom thank you for clearing that up. I've not bought many cheap Chinese items, myself, so didn't know.
The calculator needs a nickname!
FischOderAal bigcalcdotcom?
I see Fanny Flambeaux doing the rounds on Facebook again, Clive. I hope it leads to more views & subs for you.
Wow...I've never seen a flicker light quite like this one. I love the fact that it has two light-producing panels back to back and slightly offset from each other as it creates a sense of depth like a real flame. Most of the ones I find in stores around me simply have an led or element which is pulsed "randomly" which looks OK I suppose but this thing is amazing.
I agree with you! I wish be had sacrificed one of the non-defective bulbs, this one was unique, and virtually impossible to replace!
I think the electrodes are raw untreated iron. Only the negative side glows because it is emitting electrons
Pure iron wouldn't have oxidized a white coating within seconds of being opened though.
Maybe they are iron electrodes, but coated with something else? Possibly an emissive coating similar to what is used on the electrodes of fluorescent tubes.
Sebastian Rietig the outside of both flame parts should glow, this one had been assembled wrong, causing the outside of one and the inside of the other to glow.
What a great idea for a channel. Thanks for the strangely entertaining content. I watch this stuff all day.
So what would if you replaced the diode with a full bridge diode ? One side would light but would it be steady and not flickering ?
Oddly enough, looking on the US Amazon site they only seem to carry the European version of the "Cliff QuickTest" (single and three phase), using that search term, for sale in the US market, which is a bummer as I was quite excited when you mentioned they were now available in US and Canadian standard conductor colors. Perhaps the US and Canadian versions are only available in European markets and will have to be imported from Europe (which seems a bit silly and less than an optimal sales strategy for a North American oriented product)? I would very much love to add one to my electronics workbench one of these days as they are considerably safer than wire nuts or alligator clips!
Like you, I also fell in love with these neon flicker flame bulbs as a child. I can still remember how fascinated I was when I first came across them in a retail store, a shoe store if I recall, while shopping at the mall as a young child and being absolutely fascinated with the way they could mimic a flickering flame. So you can guess what I had to buy a bunch of when I became an adult and was decorating my first apartment for Christmas many years ago!
I have the US/Canadian version back in stock www.ebay.com/itm/Cliff-QuickTest-in-US-Canada-Wire-Colors-/302263880948
I cant see the calculator screen
I disagree. From the proper distance and in the proper enclosure, these can look very realistic.
I went to check out the US version of the quick test (it's model number CL1857 for anyone interested) and it seems the only place that even has them listed for sale is Farnell, and according to their website they're out of stock and won't get a new batch until March, plus they want a $20 "freight" charge due to having to ship from the UK. Oh well...
I have the US/Canadian version back in stock www.ebay.com/itm/Cliff-QuickTest-in-US-Canada-Wire-Colors-/302263880948
Most of the delays is the manufacturing lead time from Cliff. When I put in an order it can be as long as a month or more before they are ready to ship.
my favorite Cliveism is OK let's take it to bits. brings a grin to my face everytime.
Ditto
i read on google about them being carbon coated filaments, i didn't think that carbon reacted with oxygen? 🤔 i don't know. search for carbon flicker filament
you are the man!! keep up these dodgey things that people don't know i bet from your videos that you have saved more life's than a Dr has ever done . keep up what your doing and get these fakes off eBay in court for dangerous product act
you really need to use something besides a ios thing. to me my windows phone has done a lot better then a ios phone
Black, Black,Black,Black.....value = cooking hot!
The box is branded Lindner, a former high quality brand from Germany that become part of Philips
seeing flicker black side. What I used to tweaking it by whacking bulb on palm of hand without breaking it. I figure out how to get most 'flame' out of it. but if you continue to tweak, wire that holds the "flame" will become weaker and breaks off. I whack it on flame side and whack it on flame edge to tweak it. Be careful. use your common sense and wear work glove. (I did not wear it at all).
Did the surface of the flickerer oxidize when you opened the bulb? The color seems to have changed. Edit: I asked just before you said it, apparently.
WOW.. all this and no bandaids?
black-black-black-black
0 ohm resister, 0% tolerance.
Can I get these in extra long sizes for super high current applications?
Excellent demonstration, always wanted to do everything you did, thanks champ!
I misread the text on that box...
Hah! :)
Spooky coincidence. Yesterday I was in my local "specialist" (cough, cough) bar, you know the one with a dimly lit cellar, decorated by Tom of Finland drawings, when I wondered about the flickering neon lights, doing a sort of Jacob's ladder dance. At the time there was nothing much else to occupy my attention.
However do they work? I mused. Then lo and behold, it is as if Clive has been in the self same situation to come up with the answer. Yeah, yeah. Ebay dot dot, interesting finds dot dot, curiosity dot dot. But we know the truth.
I might put xenon or argon in it for other (maybe plasma ball) effects.
US has 120v and 240v. Common mistake that they only have 120v. Do love your channel content sir.
I think it's flickering because of when the plasma heat up 1 electrode then it will expand and get far from the other electrode thus make it disconnect temporary until it cool down enough to come closer in the length it can arc?
I have one of these lamps in my basement and ita over 30-40 years old and works just fine and glows on both sides and is very bright and cozy
Found the USA version of the tester here: www.newark.com/cliff-electronic-components/cl1857/qt1-usa-canada-13a-fuse-quicktest/dp/08AC2593?ost=cl1857&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All%2BCategories&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false
my school uses these lamps for christmas because our school has a big christmas tree where these lamps are used in
There's a bit about the electrode coating material here www.g3ynh.info/disch_tube/lamp/flame_neon.html with the original US patent.
I'm the guy who told you that about the aluminum soldering trick, and i need to point out that it ONLY works with lead free solder, preferably pure tin solder with no flux. And a small blowtorch is needed for larger pieces of aluminum.
Can I ask a really silly question? Why did you solder the wires onto the tip/cap of the bulb? Why not cut the lead to the bulb holder and then connect the variable resistor in series with one of the wires using screw-block connectors?
just imagine other gas types. Like argon. You would have a blue flame.
The coating on the electrodes is 'getter' this is to keep the purity of the neon. The electrodes of good quality neon and argon negative discharge lamps are fabricated from Swedish iron for its low sputtering qualities. Cheapie lamps aren't made with Swedish iron and as a result blacken quickly. It's interesting to note that prolite for a few years had a low cost 'flicker flame' that didn't have the getter coating (barium I believe) on the electrodes (they appeared shiny metal). As a result the discharge was a lot dimmer due to impurities in the neon, also if ran on DC one side of the electrode lit pink and the other lit pale blue!
I may have some of those shiny flame lamps somewhere. When left running they settled down and stopped being so active.
bigclivedotcom yeah they do that! Also they don't always light immediately. Have you tried running them on DC? I've toyed with the idea of removing the cap from one and using it to indicate polarity.
Admittedly, I haven't seen all of your videos. But I was wondering why I always see you with a winding of soldering wire and never a spool. The only time you ever catch me soldering like that is because it didn't come with a spool, like silver solder kits.
Didn't find it on Amazon, but Newark has it here: www.newark.com/cliff-electronic-components/cl1850/electrical-tester/dp/68C8457 It's model #CL1857 (ref: www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/tools/quicktest.htm)
I bet Clive would like the three phase version. lol
Only joking. how may of us have three phase electric at home ?
BillyNoMates1974
I do, but no messing around on the bench with my 3 phase!!!
BillyNoMates1974 Three words. Variable Frequency drive or tester. Outputs the energy needed for three phase machines and runs off of standard household electrical.
Harry Bibby agreed with no messing around with three phase unless absolutely needed. just regular mains scares me.
Sarah1390
Yes I have been working with three phase for about 20 years and have it at home.
And you done really get a second chance with it......
I have the same Lamp holder from AliExpress 😂☝️
aaaaannnd the jaycar resistor wheel is out of stock....the power of clive.
aaaaannnd the jaycar resistor wheel is out of stock....the power of clive.
140V over the Resistor, not 200.... if the Neon Lamp has a drop of 100V
I cant see the calculator screen
You still can't solder aluminium just by using oil (or scraping as you solder). The solder _will_ stick, but it won't last. Less than a week later in the case of scraping it will fall off, because you can't really stop oxygen diffusing into the join, which is by no means completely wet by 60/40. Oil might last longer, but I doubt strongly it would last even a year. You need a special solder which wets the aluminium properly, which is available, apparently.
17:30 you definitely hit something 😆 * workshop ASMR *
Wash your hands Clive! That white powder is highly toxic! :O
CLIVE! you are missing all the fun. Put it in the microwave for 5 seconds at a time so it wont over heat and be amazed!