Congrats man! As I am sure you know from my videos by now, I love my CTS2. It is so incredibly handy and can do so many different things. It is bigger but I have it tucked into the corner and it doesn't block hardly any visibility at all. That port on the wiring that you saw is for adding more sensors like I show in my videos. That is how I added on my fuel pressure sensor, egt sensor, and my ambient air temp sensor. Our boost numbers are basically the same. On a WOT pass, I see about 20-21. The HP and TQ numbers are definitely not accurate. Another one I found to not be accurate it the MPG reading, but I expected that. . You will be happy to have the new gauges and if you are anything like me then you will constantly be staring at them haha. Keeps me entertained on long trips.
80HD Projects are you still happy with it after having it this long? I’m in process of buying one but going back n fourth between the the Cts2 and CS2...
Monitor looks nice, has a good looking screen on it too. I have a stock turbo on mine with a wicked wheel and I see around the same PSI at full throttle
@@NoHalfAss I was getting turbo surge around 14-16 PSI so I didn't push it further until I installed the wicked wheel. Currently use 3 glowshift gauges on the pillar for EGT, trans temp, boost. Recently added a TS Livewire from my old 6.0 excursion with a bunch of gauges on it too
You can still use that old mount, cut a slot in that pillar mount & use some double-sided tape... Tuck that module in the middle of the OBD cord behind the dash till to you by the add-ons like egt, relay packs, or temps sensors
When I was running the Edge Evolution (setting 3) on my 7.3L with stock turbo and riffraff intake boots and IC boots with T-bolts I was getting boost Psi up to 25psi. The stock intake boost with The generic style hose clamps have to go. They are a major cause of boost leakage with Any chip or tuner
Powerstroke Project 👍 I guess the stock ones work ok when truck is stock but add 16+ yrs of age and now tuner mods and the stock Intake boots will leak some boost PSI. I’ve actually had one slip off on once when I had my foot in it pretty good. Once they get oil all over them they start to break down and slip off. And the stupid Generic hose clamps do not really crank down tight enough. With new Boots and T-Bolts you can really crank down on them tight. Just be warned. You can not crank down on the Plenum side without deforming the cheap stamped steel stock plenums. I bought Riffraff’s billet plenum inserts and that is no longer an issue for me. Dieselsite, Riffraff, and sinister all make good intake/IC boots. And they come with new stainless T-bolt clamps. BTW Your 7.3 project is turning out awesome. I’ll have to post a few videos of my 02’ 7.3L F350 crew cab long bed and send you the link. I try to do that in the next week or two. Good luck buddy
Jason D great info, thanks! I’ve looked at the riffraff boot kit before, will probably upgrade to those eventually. Thank you man I appreciate that! And I look forward to seeing some videos of your truck!
Jeremy Keith They really don’t work. I tried it. I did a wastegate adjustment on stock turbo and when I exceed 23-24 psi I throw a soft code /Check engine light That only stays on for a minute or two and then shuts off. It did that for years without any issues. Once I installed the 38R turbo I never got That soft code above 24 psi again
I think I mentioned it in another video, but definitely check your turbo up pipes, those things are prone to wearing out and will definitely cause loss of power, especially under turbo load.
Agreed I had to change my up pipes also. They always leak. I installed the bellowed international up pipe and never looked back. I believe I got them from riffraff
With the battery voltage on display now you will be able to tell exactly when your glow plugs turn off. It will be somewhere in the 11+ V With glow plugs on and you’ll see it go right up to 12+ volts I soon as it turns off. I never start my truck with glow plugs still on. It just beats your batteries to death Especially when temps are colder and oil temp is cold.
So to start your truck you leave the key on for the "X" amount of minutes till your volts jump back up to 12v before you start your truck? How minutes does that take and can you feel the difference in cranking it over compared to just starting it when the glow plug light goes off?
Jeston Ponciano it’s only a few seconds. When you first turn the key there’s a light in the dash that says “wait to start” and it takes about 6 seconds to shut off and then you can start the truck or wait a little longer since the glow plugs are still warming up. Sometimes when it’s really cold or if the truck sat for a few days I’ll wait 10-12 seconds instead. When I first turn the key the monitor will read 11 volts, after 6 seconds when the “wait to start” light shuts off, I start it and it reads 12 volts because the glow plugs are still warming up, then after a short period the glow plugs shut off and the monitor reads just about 14 volts.
Powerstroke Project, I understand the normal 7.3 start procedure, I start my truck exactly how you do. I was just thinking deeper into Jason D comment about how he never starts his truck with the glow plugs on because it beats the batteries to death. That's why I was asking the questions in my previous post. I don't have a voltage meter in my truck so i was wondering if he can feel the difference of taking the time by waiting to start after glow plugs are off.
The horsepower and torque readings may be what are actually being used, not your max engine output. Mine is a 2000 model which has 235hp and 500ftlbs. If you're not pulling a trailer, you're probably not pulling all of that power. Just a guess though, the monitor may not be accurate. I got the CTS2 back in January, and haven't checked the performance too much, but I got the EAS expansion for an EGT Probe and Turbo cool down timer that works pretty slick.
I’m going to say the horsepower and torque ratings on there are an estimate on what it’s putting at the wheels versus at the flywheel like what truck companies say on their specs.
Tie the wastegate shut, plug the boost line going to it should see 24psi and quicker spool, get a billet wheel if you havent already because she will surge. Best thing you can do to that slug is a gear change with them tires...it will be able to put more power to the ground also will keep the entire drive train and powertrain happier as it wont struggle as much. Most people over look this part... But if you ever pull up to a stock tire truck and race it you will see how much faster it is even if he only has a tow tune and no other mods. Buy good tunes as Well.... It will keep the transmission happy and require less oil then the cheap can tunes demand.. Also a John woods valvebody=Awesome upgrade.
ExtremePower Addicts yeah I heard about unplugging that red boost line and was thinking about trying it. Never heard of tying the wastegate shut though! Maybe I’ll try that too! And I really considered lowering the gears for awhile, it’s just very expensive and I couldn’t do it myself 😂 but I’m sure that would make a huge difference in the performance! Thanks for all the tips!🤘🏻🙏🏻💯🔥
@@NoHalfAss I have a big head wastegate so all I did was tighten it all the way since its adjustable they also hold shut better... The stock ones are pretty weak... Could have just been the one I had, but it would leak exhaust pressure even with the boost line off so I tied it up with a wire and made sure the flap wasn't going to open up, I noticed quicker spool. I even went back and forth a few times to make sure I wasnt trippin haha. The gear change is expensive if you dont do it yourself but its well worth it... Like I said it reduces the stress on everything... A hot tune, big tires and stock gears are really rough on stock 4r100s, even worse if you ever tow with it. You can always do the rear diff first which is the cheaper of the 2 and later do tge front just make sure to never put in 4wd haha.
ExtremePower Addicts yeah I was thinking about getting the turbomaster wastegate actuator. Read some articles saying people prefer it over the canister style banks big head. I’m gonna try unplugging the red line first though and see what we get with that!
Yeah i would get that one... I only got the big head because I found it for dirt cheap on the classifieds... I will try to post a video of My 7.3 later this week... Has a banks wheel, 40hp tune, intake and exhaust only making 22psi on this tune. Subbed now because you seem like a genuine down to earth person 👍
Triangle Donut yeah I think you’re right. I believe once you pass or hit 23psi the truck will defuel and not allow more than that unless you have a tuner that overrides it or you have the boost fooler kit.
I could be wrong but I believe that our wastegates start to open at around 10 psi. Also, it does begin to defuel at a certain number but I can't remember if it's 23 or not, but you'll know if you hit that number because it'll throw a code when it does. The boost fooler is often not necessary anymore because most tuners will just tune that out of the system. At least in the case of custom tuning on the hydras.
Those HP and torque numbers are off, you have over 200HP stock, glad you got the Edge product, that funny connection piece in the OBDII wire is for add on gauges like a EGT probe. I will instagram ya a pic pf my SCT2 in my dually with the pod I have, it's not in the field of view so it doesn't obstruct the windshield.
Myles Hansel Myles I agree bro! The truck makes pretty good powers there’s no way the numbers are accurate. And that would be cool bro look forward to seeing it! Thanks for the info on that plug🙏🏻💯
I think you might get better readings if the truck was under load?? Factory is 275 hp and 500 torque I think these trucks are ment to work and are set up from the factory for that,when you change hp and torque you will make your engine life go way down.Trump 2020
Watsup cody! I think the edge might be measuring the horsepower to the wheels.... also your truck could be losing power when you get on it because you dont have the overboost code eliminator....
Actually there’s a line that goes from the turbo spyder to the MAP sensor to read boost but it stops at 25 psi. Check out my newest video, I have GlowShift mechanical Guages to read my boost accurately now
@@NoHalfAss nice 👍🏻. I’m trying to find a cheap monitor to use either my hydra. I have heard that all you really need is a get guage. So I might end up just getting a get huge for now. Do you recommend any specific egg guage?
@@Diesel_ftw I have glow shift gauges for turbo boost, and EGTs, and I mostly use the edge to monitor engine oil temps and transmission temps. You can get the glow shifts for pretty much anything I think. I like them and they haven’t given me any issues either.
Powerstroke Project there are some diagnostic programs for around $300 -$400 mechanics use to run a buzz test to determine the health of Injectors and read codes etc. that would be cool if edge threw that in there too. There's a TH-cam vid of a guy using car guage pro $15 download, does a buzz test, which I tried couldn't get it to work
Hey man, do you have any parasitic battery drain? Leaving your truck sit for a few days and the batteries are low or dead? Would like an update to see how long you can leave your truck sitting before seeing any issues. Thanks!
Full RIP I did a video on that recently. Check it out right here bro! --> th-cam.com/video/MX3qy34OAqs/w-d-xo.html I used to have a parasitic drain until I upgraded the to a 200 amp alternator. Now the truck has sat for a full week and still fired right up like normal. Used to start slower after only a couple days of sitting. Here’s a link to the alternator on amazon: amzn.to/2EvagLD
Full RIP I also bought this cheap solar panel trickle charger. Probably doesn’t do much but only $33 so what the heck, why not? Plugs right into the 12v cigarette lighter port inside the cab. amzn.to/2YPtlAe
MrPowderEater yeah, I believe it’s 23 psi so I’m still not sure if I need it or not. I’m hoping my superchips tuner overrides that so I don’t need the boost fooler. I think the boost fooler is more for people that upgrade their turbo but don’t have a good tuner to override the defueling at 23 psi
Brother what can you do to upgrade and soften the factory suspension on a 2003 7.3 dually . I've noticed my front end is a little lower than the back. I am guessing for the weight of the engine. Is there anything that can be done to it. Thanks for the video . I just ordered a refurbished in like new conditions CS2 . Great deal at 150 bucks.
Yeah that’s common for them to come from the factory like that, especially the Duallys. It’s not so much because of the weight of the engine, they designed it that way so when you put a load in the bed and the rear end sags the truck will be level. People have told me about sulastic shackles and said they work good but I’ve never had them so I’m not sure. Also, putting a load in the bed will soften the ride. If you throw 500-1,000lbs in there it gets a lot softer. I had a coworker put a 3/4” steel plate in the bed of his truck and put rhino liner over it to make his ride smoother. That probably affects fuel economy though. Hahaha
Cody, thank you for your input on the tuner. I’ve been thinking about getting one. By any chance do you have the link for the chip? I just got my first 7.3L 99. Rusty but it’s paid for and it’s mine and my goals are to fix it up to a show room quality truck. Might take me some time. Do you have an Instagram account people can follow?
Jason Eads well the Edge product in this video is just a monitor. It’s not a tuner or chip. I have a superchips 1705 tuner for my truck which I’m happy with but 99% of people will recommend the Hydra tuner for a 7.3, which I might switch to one day. Do not get an edge tuner though. I like the edge monitor but the edge tuner gave me issues. If you search superchips 1705 on eBay you will see some for sale. And yes, my Instagram is @powerstroke_project
2CG Motorsports this one does it but you have to buy the EGT probe as an add-on and it plugs into that plug by the obdII that I showed in the video during the installation and said I didn’t know what it was for. Lol Someone commented and told me that’s what that little plug is for 🤘🏻
2CG Motorsports and it’s more than just gauges that’s what’s cool. 0-60 tracker, code reader, and other cool stuff that you don’t get with pillar gauges.
Unfortunately no. I was just checking the other day for that too. I’ll be installing a mishimoto radiator, new water pump, and thermostat pretty soon and probably look into a spot to get coolant temps from with a mechanical gauge in the future
Kyler Davis Move Bumpers, and it starts at $500 without light holes. $50 more for a light bar cut-out, and another $50 for the light pod cut-outs. I paid $550 for mine since I didn’t get a light bar cut-out
Beeda the edge is just a monitor with gauges that plugs into the OBD II. As long as your ts6 doesn’t plug into the OBD II they don’t affect each other.
Beeda I love it. You can watch your engine oil temp, trans fluid temp, turbo psi, instant mpg, and also if you have big tires you can get your true MPH since your trucks speedo won’t be accurate with bigger tires. Also you can read engine codes with it too
Edge monitor - amzn.to/2xHTHso
Congrats on getting into the partnership program! Don’t skip no ads 😆
Determined Veteran thank you man!! Keep up the great work, you’re on your way there!🤘🏻💯
Congrats man! As I am sure you know from my videos by now, I love my CTS2. It is so incredibly handy and can do so many different things. It is bigger but I have it tucked into the corner and it doesn't block hardly any visibility at all. That port on the wiring that you saw is for adding more sensors like I show in my videos. That is how I added on my fuel pressure sensor, egt sensor, and my ambient air temp sensor. Our boost numbers are basically the same. On a WOT pass, I see about 20-21. The HP and TQ numbers are definitely not accurate. Another one I found to not be accurate it the MPG reading, but I expected that.
.
You will be happy to have the new gauges and if you are anything like me then you will constantly be staring at them haha. Keeps me entertained on long trips.
Living On Wheels oh alright cool thanks for that info! And yeah you’re right I can’t stop messing with it and watching the gauges 😂😂
Nice man, planning on getting the CTS2 for my 6.0! Im running the old school Edge CS right now
glamisfanatic nice bro! I’m pretty happy with this thing so far👌🏻💯
80HD Projects are you still happy with it after having it this long? I’m in process of buying one but going back n fourth between the the Cts2 and CS2...
Monitor looks nice, has a good looking screen on it too. I have a stock turbo on mine with a wicked wheel and I see around the same PSI at full throttle
alwaysup2late oh nice. How much psi were you getting before the wicked wheel?? And what kind of gauges do you use?
@@NoHalfAss I was getting turbo surge around 14-16 PSI so I didn't push it further until I installed the wicked wheel. Currently use 3 glowshift gauges on the pillar for EGT, trans temp, boost. Recently added a TS Livewire from my old 6.0 excursion with a bunch of gauges on it too
alwaysup2late oh nice bro!
You can still use that old mount, cut a slot in that pillar mount & use some double-sided tape...
Tuck that module in the middle of the OBD cord behind the dash till to you by the add-ons like egt, relay packs, or temps sensors
1DjScarface good idea man but I ripped that old mount out already😂 thanks!🤘🏻🔥💯
When I was running the Edge Evolution (setting 3) on my 7.3L with stock turbo and riffraff intake boots and IC boots with T-bolts I was getting boost Psi up to 25psi.
The stock intake boost with The generic style hose clamps have to go.
They are a major cause of boost leakage with Any chip or tuner
Jason D interesting! I didn’t think about that, I’ll have to switch those out soon! Thanks for the info!🙏🏻💯
Powerstroke Project
👍
I guess the stock ones work ok when truck is stock but add 16+ yrs of age and now tuner mods and the stock Intake boots will leak some boost PSI.
I’ve actually had one slip off on once when I had my foot in it pretty good.
Once they get oil all over them they start to break down and slip off. And the stupid Generic hose clamps do not really crank down tight enough.
With new Boots and T-Bolts you can really crank down on them tight.
Just be warned.
You can not crank down on the Plenum side without deforming the cheap stamped steel stock plenums.
I bought Riffraff’s billet plenum inserts and that is no longer an issue for me.
Dieselsite, Riffraff, and sinister all make good intake/IC boots.
And they come with new stainless T-bolt clamps.
BTW
Your 7.3 project is turning out awesome.
I’ll have to post a few videos of my 02’ 7.3L F350
crew cab long bed and send you the link.
I try to do that in the next week or two.
Good luck buddy
Jason D great info, thanks! I’ve looked at the riffraff boot kit before, will probably upgrade to those eventually. Thank you man I appreciate that! And I look forward to seeing some videos of your truck!
Boost fooler?
Jeremy Keith
They really don’t work.
I tried it.
I did a wastegate adjustment on stock turbo and when I exceed 23-24 psi I throw a soft code /Check engine light That only stays on for a minute or two and then shuts off.
It did that for years without any issues.
Once I installed the 38R turbo
I never got That soft code above 24 psi again
I think I mentioned it in another video, but definitely check your turbo up pipes, those things are prone to wearing out and will definitely cause loss of power, especially under turbo load.
Nate yes I think you did! I haven’t checked yet but plan too. I also plan on upgrading all my boots with the riffraff boot kit!
Agreed
I had to change my up pipes also. They always leak.
I installed the bellowed international up pipe and never looked back.
I believe I got them from riffraff
With the battery voltage on display now you will be able to tell exactly when your glow plugs turn off. It will be somewhere in the 11+ V With glow plugs on and you’ll see it go right up to 12+ volts I soon as it turns off.
I never start my truck with glow plugs still on. It just beats your batteries to death
Especially when temps are colder and oil temp is cold.
Jason D yeah I saw that! It actually goes up to 14.2 for me. I think that’s cuz of the 200 amp alternator I put in🤘🏻🔥
So to start your truck you leave the key on for the "X" amount of minutes till your volts jump back up to 12v before you start your truck? How minutes does that take and can you feel the difference in cranking it over compared to just starting it when the glow plug light goes off?
Jeston Ponciano it’s only a few seconds. When you first turn the key there’s a light in the dash that says “wait to start” and it takes about 6 seconds to shut off and then you can start the truck or wait a little longer since the glow plugs are still warming up. Sometimes when it’s really cold or if the truck sat for a few days I’ll wait 10-12 seconds instead. When I first turn the key the monitor will read 11 volts, after 6 seconds when the “wait to start” light shuts off, I start it and it reads 12 volts because the glow plugs are still warming up, then after a short period the glow plugs shut off and the monitor reads just about 14 volts.
Powerstroke Project, I understand the normal 7.3 start procedure, I start my truck exactly how you do. I was just thinking deeper into Jason D comment about how he never starts his truck with the glow plugs on because it beats the batteries to death. That's why I was asking the questions in my previous post. I don't have a voltage meter in my truck so i was wondering if he can feel the difference of taking the time by waiting to start after glow plugs are off.
Jeston Ponciano oh I see! I just re read his comment and now I understand your question! Lol
I got the cts2
Mr. White nice bro!! How do you like it?? I’m really liking this ct2!
whiteagle 1965 it’s just a monitor with digital gauges, not a tuner, so the epa regulations shouldn’t affect the cts2
The horsepower and torque readings may be what are actually being used, not your max engine output. Mine is a 2000 model which has 235hp and 500ftlbs. If you're not pulling a trailer, you're probably not pulling all of that power.
Just a guess though, the monitor may not be accurate.
I got the CTS2 back in January, and haven't checked the performance too much, but I got the EAS expansion for an EGT Probe and Turbo cool down timer that works pretty slick.
Justin Newman yeah that makes sense! You might be right bro🤘🏻
I’m going to say the horsepower and torque ratings on there are an estimate on what it’s putting at the wheels versus at the flywheel like what truck companies say on their specs.
Hells yeah bro I'm getting one for my 7.3🤘
Michael Bayless I think you’ll be very happy with it bro!
Tie the wastegate shut, plug the boost line going to it should see 24psi and quicker spool, get a billet wheel if you havent already because she will surge. Best thing you can do to that slug is a gear change with them tires...it will be able to put more power to the ground also will keep the entire drive train and powertrain happier as it wont struggle as much. Most people over look this part... But if you ever pull up to a stock tire truck and race it you will see how much faster it is even if he only has a tow tune and no other mods.
Buy good tunes as Well.... It will keep the transmission happy and require less oil then the cheap can tunes demand..
Also a John woods valvebody=Awesome upgrade.
ExtremePower Addicts yeah I heard about unplugging that red boost line and was thinking about trying it. Never heard of tying the wastegate shut though! Maybe I’ll try that too! And I really considered lowering the gears for awhile, it’s just very expensive and I couldn’t do it myself 😂 but I’m sure that would make a huge difference in the performance! Thanks for all the tips!🤘🏻🙏🏻💯🔥
@@NoHalfAss I have a big head wastegate so all I did was tighten it all the way since its adjustable they also hold shut better... The stock ones are pretty weak... Could have just been the one I had, but it would leak exhaust pressure even with the boost line off so I tied it up with a wire and made sure the flap wasn't going to open up, I noticed quicker spool. I even went back and forth a few times to make sure I wasnt trippin haha. The gear change is expensive if you dont do it yourself but its well worth it... Like I said it reduces the stress on everything... A hot tune, big tires and stock gears are really rough on stock 4r100s, even worse if you ever tow with it. You can always do the rear diff first which is the cheaper of the 2 and later do tge front just make sure to never put in 4wd haha.
ExtremePower Addicts yeah I was thinking about getting the turbomaster wastegate actuator. Read some articles saying people prefer it over the canister style banks big head. I’m gonna try unplugging the red line first though and see what we get with that!
Yeah i would get that one... I only got the big head because I found it for dirt cheap on the classifieds...
I will try to post a video of My 7.3 later this week... Has a banks wheel, 40hp tune, intake and exhaust only making 22psi on this tune. Subbed now because you seem like a genuine down to earth person 👍
I think 7.3 stock can put all the way up to 24 psi before the wastegate kicks in.
Triangle Donut yeah I think you’re right. I believe once you pass or hit 23psi the truck will defuel and not allow more than that unless you have a tuner that overrides it or you have the boost fooler kit.
I could be wrong but I believe that our wastegates start to open at around 10 psi. Also, it does begin to defuel at a certain number but I can't remember if it's 23 or not, but you'll know if you hit that number because it'll throw a code when it does. The boost fooler is often not necessary anymore because most tuners will just tune that out of the system. At least in the case of custom tuning on the hydras.
Those HP and torque numbers are off, you have over 200HP stock, glad you got the Edge product, that funny connection piece in the OBDII wire is for add on gauges like a EGT probe. I will instagram ya a pic pf my SCT2 in my dually with the pod I have, it's not in the field of view so it doesn't obstruct the windshield.
Myles Hansel Myles I agree bro! The truck makes pretty good powers there’s no way the numbers are accurate. And that would be cool bro look forward to seeing it! Thanks for the info on that plug🙏🏻💯
Yeah I think them HP numbers are low. Cause a stock 7.3 from the factory comes with 275HP, what is the next thing your going to put on the truck
I think you might get better readings if the truck was under load?? Factory is 275 hp and 500 torque I think these trucks are ment to work and are set up from the factory for that,when you change hp and torque you will make your engine life go way down.Trump 2020
James mcquoid yeah I’m pretty sure your right! These 7.3s last the longest if you just leave them stock!😂
@@NoHalfAss yeah man better to get 800 to 900k miles out of it than 600 hp.your Truck is sick dude very nice.
@@NoHalfAss I have 2000 7.3 dually with 130k miles truck is a beast and mint condition I never get rid of it.
James mcquoid thanks man! And that’s awesome! I bought mine with 130k miles. 145k miles on it now🤘🏻
Watsup cody! I think the edge might be measuring the horsepower to the wheels.... also your truck could be losing power when you get on it because you dont have the overboost code eliminator....
Joey Gonzales that’s a good point! But do you think I’m overboosting considering I only got up to 20-21 psi??
I just installed it on my truck it will turn on for 5 minutes then shuts off and will not turn back on anyone know why
Do you recommend this one or a bully dog tuner? Got a 7.3 excursion
Well this is just a monitor for gauges. I use the hydra for a tuner and it’s pretty good
How can that tell the psi on the turbo? The computer csn tell what the psi is?!?
Actually there’s a line that goes from the turbo spyder to the MAP sensor to read boost but it stops at 25 psi. Check out my newest video, I have GlowShift mechanical Guages to read my boost accurately now
Just got one, does it not measure EGT's?
Can you read oil pressure?
No it’s a 7.3 so if you have low oil pressure you’ll know by how and if it’s running due to the heui fuel system
is it still working? just ordered one. i cant fine any long term info.
Still works just fine, no issues 👍🏻
@@NoHalfAss Thanks for the info!
Could have just cut the whole where the hdmi was just an idea 💡
Still using the cs2?
Yup! No issues at all 👍🏻
@@NoHalfAss nice 👍🏻. I’m trying to find a cheap monitor to use either my hydra. I have heard that all you really need is a get guage. So I might end up just getting a get huge for now. Do you recommend any specific egg guage?
@@Diesel_ftw I have glow shift gauges for turbo boost, and EGTs, and I mostly use the edge to monitor engine oil temps and transmission temps. You can get the glow shifts for pretty much anything I think. I like them and they haven’t given me any issues either.
Can it run a buzz test?
tim laski buzz test? It can read diagnostics and read/clear codes if that’s what you mean??
Powerstroke Project there are some diagnostic programs for around $300 -$400 mechanics use to run a buzz test to determine the health of
Injectors and read codes etc. that would be cool if edge threw that in there too. There's a TH-cam vid of a guy using car guage pro $15 download, does a buzz test, which I tried couldn't get it to work
tim laski interesting! I honestly have no idea if it does or not. I’ll have to look into it!
Hey man, do you have any parasitic battery drain? Leaving your truck sit for a few days and the batteries are low or dead? Would like an update to see how long you can leave your truck sitting before seeing any issues. Thanks!
Full RIP I did a video on that recently. Check it out right here bro! --> th-cam.com/video/MX3qy34OAqs/w-d-xo.html
I used to have a parasitic drain until I upgraded the to a 200 amp alternator. Now the truck has sat for a full week and still fired right up like normal. Used to start slower after only a couple days of sitting.
Here’s a link to the alternator on amazon: amzn.to/2EvagLD
Full RIP I also bought this cheap solar panel trickle charger. Probably doesn’t do much but only $33 so what the heck, why not? Plugs right into the 12v cigarette lighter port inside the cab. amzn.to/2YPtlAe
i do. if i know my truck will be sitting a while while im gone on work...ill unplug it
Booster fooler👍 the map sensor defuels the engine when you hit 20 psi
MrPowderEater yeah, I believe it’s 23 psi so I’m still not sure if I need it or not. I’m hoping my superchips tuner overrides that so I don’t need the boost fooler. I think the boost fooler is more for people that upgrade their turbo but don’t have a good tuner to override the defueling at 23 psi
@@NoHalfAss My truck didn't make over 20 psi with the super chips until I did a boost fooler and wicked wheel and waste gate actuator
MrPowderEater oh okay nice! Good to know thanks! I’ve been curious but now I know. Still learning a lot about these trucks. Hahaha
You’ll need the Riff Raff OCR. So when you boost over 24psi your CEL won’t come on.
alex rox yeah I looked at that before. It’s basically the same exact thing as the boost fooler you get on eBay right?
The bigger edge screen is only 5 inches it isn't even that big. I have one in my 7.3 and it's basically the same size as the one you got.
Brother what can you do to upgrade and soften the factory suspension on a 2003 7.3 dually . I've noticed my front end is a little lower than the back. I am guessing for the weight of the engine. Is there anything that can be done to it. Thanks for the video . I just ordered a refurbished in like new conditions CS2 . Great deal at 150 bucks.
Yeah that’s common for them to come from the factory like that, especially the Duallys. It’s not so much because of the weight of the engine, they designed it that way so when you put a load in the bed and the rear end sags the truck will be level. People have told me about sulastic shackles and said they work good but I’ve never had them so I’m not sure. Also, putting a load in the bed will soften the ride. If you throw 500-1,000lbs in there it gets a lot softer. I had a coworker put a 3/4” steel plate in the bed of his truck and put rhino liner over it to make his ride smoother. That probably affects fuel economy though. Hahaha
@@NoHalfAss thanks my brother. Good info.
Did you change the gearing after going with the bigger tires? Also my 7.3 makes 23 psi
T Wayland no, stock gears still. When I get the 14” lift and 40” tires that I want one day I’ll lower the gears
The Boost PSI won’t show u accurate psi unless you actually bought the hose line for the boost gauge
Your right but it will give him a close enough number
I get 31 psi on my Lbz
Damn! Badass bro!!!
Cody, thank you for your input on the tuner. I’ve been thinking about getting one. By any chance do you have the link for the chip? I just got my first 7.3L 99. Rusty but it’s paid for and it’s mine and my goals are to fix it up to a show room quality truck. Might take me some time. Do you have an Instagram account people can follow?
Jason Eads well the Edge product in this video is just a monitor. It’s not a tuner or chip. I have a superchips 1705 tuner for my truck which I’m happy with but 99% of people will recommend the Hydra tuner for a 7.3, which I might switch to one day. Do not get an edge tuner though. I like the edge monitor but the edge tuner gave me issues. If you search superchips 1705 on eBay you will see some for sale. And yes, my Instagram is @powerstroke_project
Thank you.
Is there a module to read EGT's?
2CG Motorsports this one does it but you have to buy the EGT probe as an add-on and it plugs into that plug by the obdII that I showed in the video during the installation and said I didn’t know what it was for. Lol
Someone commented and told me that’s what that little plug is for 🤘🏻
I like that. Just did an S&B intake. Ive always been reluctant to have 40 gauges up and the pillar lol. All in one spot keeps it clean.
2CG Motorsports same here bro plus easy installation that’s why I like it!🤘🏻🔥
2CG Motorsports and it’s more than just gauges that’s what’s cool. 0-60 tracker, code reader, and other cool stuff that you don’t get with pillar gauges.
You need a Edge EGT probe to get accurate EGTs
does the monitor show coolant temps on a 7.3 powerstroke?
Unfortunately no. I was just checking the other day for that too. I’ll be installing a mishimoto radiator, new water pump, and thermostat pretty soon and probably look into a spot to get coolant temps from with a mechanical gauge in the future
Where did you get your bumper and how much was it?
Kyler Davis Move Bumpers, and it starts at $500 without light holes.
$50 more for a light bar cut-out, and another $50 for the light pod cut-outs. I paid $550 for mine since I didn’t get a light bar cut-out
thats almost dead accurate. 1 to 3 ratio. i have aftermarket 380R that gauge tops out at 24 lbs of boost
Dale Watson oh nice!!!🤘🏻🔥
I have a ts6, does anyone know if I’d have to do anything special to it?
To to the edge to get it working correctly
Beeda the edge is just a monitor with gauges that plugs into the OBD II. As long as your ts6 doesn’t plug into the OBD II they don’t affect each other.
80HD Projects okay, I was thinking about getting one, do you recommend it?
Beeda I love it. You can watch your engine oil temp, trans fluid temp, turbo psi, instant mpg, and also if you have big tires you can get your true MPH since your trucks speedo won’t be accurate with bigger tires. Also you can read engine codes with it too
80HD Projects awesome, thanks man!
Bro why didn’t you get the EDGE CTS2 Evolution?
First