Excellent video. I've been changing oil in cars, trucks, boats, yachts and equipment for forty years. Your extractor home build is just excellent. I've used all manor techniques, tools, pumps and on and on. I will build your extractor tomorrow. I bought a Mercedes with the M112 engine. The engine has the oil filter right on top of the engine. No hot oil running down your arm but you do still have to drain the engine from underneath. On boats and yachts I use to plumb a copper tube up from the drain plug up to the top of the engine. Then use a pump or extractor to pull the oil out. That way was as neat a job as your extractor is. Plus that way I got it all. Well done young man, well done!
I actually did this over 10 years ago when a rapid lube shop messed up the threads on the drain plug of my 1990 4cyl Cavalier. I warmed up the oil first though and it did the job in under 5 minutes. The issue I had though was that the larger suction tube allowed some air to flow through creating a bit of spray inside the bucket that misted the inside of my vacuum hose with oil. Anyway, good to see some more Canadian YT content! Thanks for posting.
Ya, getting the drain plug thread messed up is everyone's secret worry. --One poorly trained and poorly supervised tech coming hung over to the job and you'll find out ONLY later.
@@sundo-pf5zv The tech actually didn't know the "rightey-tightey lefty-losey" rule and torqued the drain plug to destruction. We didn't even get the oil changed. Same place blew the oil filter 15 years earlier on my mom's 1982 Mazda 626. I generally have *bad* experience with those shops so I never bring my own cars to those places and DIY.
Thank you. I was going to buy one of the commercial extractors . But, after seeing this video I will be making my own based on your idea. It’s a more cost effective approach and you wouldn’t have to worry about having to buy replacement parts from a specific brand, this is off the shelf readily available at any hardware store parts, which is a big plus. Plus if it needed to be cleaned it would be a breeze. I intend to make a small change to mine. And that is to attach the bigger nipples to the lid and then just cap them off with plastic sleeves and only uncap the one I need. I’ll see if it works. But overall a very nice, neat and simple idea. Again, thank you for the video.
Hi there. I just stumbled onto this video although I see its 2 years old. Great idea. I have been doing this on certain engines I have for years. Its especially great for snow mobiles since getting them up high enough to access the drain plug means needing a special stand. Also since some panels underneath can't be removed where the drain plug is, its always a messy job. There is a similar method for bleeding barkes but in this case you pressurize the master cylinder and put your clear tube over your bleeder screw on each wheel one at a time and into a small container. Pressurizing the master cylinder means you don't need somebody in the car to pump the brakes. Great job.
The cap on the can/drum was leaking air and hence the slow flow of oil. I suggest you get a rubber gasket or tight fitting drum the next time. When you get a tight seal on the drum, make sure to lower the total vacuum level by causing an intentional leak on the shop vac or else you might end up with an imploded plastic drum. Your D.I.Y hack was the best yet on the internet for oil extraction. Thanks for the same.
Hello still seen your video does meces and I found it hard today to see how you manufactured your extractor for oil, today I tried a 12v china and I could not get even 1/2 liter was mission impossible your simple economic and effective device is one of the best facts and one that I saw with a deposit of fire extinguisher and the engine of a refrigerator but yours very good and simple are the same, thank you very much for sharing a greeting from Canarias Spain greetings.
Check out my vacuum extractor video made with a vacuum pump. Achieves much higher vacuum and will do the job you said takes 15 minutes and about one or two minutes max. I think you’ll love it. The pump can be bought at Harbor freight for like 70 bucks maybe if you don’t already have one. It’ll do much better than any one you buy that’s for sure. You can’t use plastic containers like you have for it will collapse them by the way
Well done Paul. I had thought about making one myself. However, I still prefer to get under the bike and check my drain plug for metal, which is why I don't like the idea of pulling the oil out that way.
Hey Paul ... Nice clear video. I have used a shop vac in similar situations. A word of caution .... make sure some air can get in somewhere because your shop vac motor is cooled by air going through it. Also, if you happen to be sucking up flammable liquids (gasoline) you could end up with an explosive situation as the fumes get drawn through your shop vac electric motor.
Thanks Paul for the excellent video. I used a Top-Sider pump 4 / 300,000 mi on a Mercedes diesel. Your idea is great and I thank you for your willingness to share
I've been using essentially the same setup for years. Works great. Also serves as a reusable storage container you can take to AutoZone for reclamation along with the rest of your filled up jugs. Pro tip so that the bucket doesn't collapse if your vacuum is powerful enough to pump it down ( mine is ) : put the bucket inside another bucket. Doubles the wall strength.
I don't understand this: all the suction is on the pail that holds the liquid. If the outer pail holds the liquid the inner pail displaces all the volume to prevent filling, unless the volume of the liquid to be sucked is just smaller than the volume between the two pails. What am I missing?
@@sundo-pf5zv There is a bucket with a lid, under vacuum... the shop vac hose is attached to this one and is sucking air out of the bucket. Another small tube is also attached to the bucket, and air is being sucked into the bucket through this one.You stick that little tube into the engine it sucksthe oil out, which lands in the bucket. . The negative pressure in the bucket may be enough that it will collapse inward. To prevent this, slide your bucket into another bucket of the same size.
Excellent idea, don’t know if I would use it on my bike or suction gasoline using this method but will definitely use it to do oil changes on my lawnmowers. If a motor has an easily accessible drain plug it’s better to use that method. Not a good idea to run combustible gases through your shop vac though unless you want to go through the roof.
I've noticed there's always one "dislike" on every vid., it's probably the same person, someone who's VERY jealous Thanks for all you're doing Paul and ride safe. (a fan from Down Under)
The ratio counts, man. -- Everyone who watches the video wonders about the Thumbs down's. IMO it's a group of friends in puberty thinking it's great fun causing damage in society. It's some form of Youth Group Think. It's a maturity issue. Easy to see why they do it .. Pea sized, immature brains set these downers. Eggnore!
Ingenious, But Paul, much easier to use the drain plug. And for all of those doing their own oil change on a Victory, tilt the bike to the right for a few seconds to drain any oil from the primary case into the crankcase.
This'll be really good for Harleys since all the oil doesn't seem to drain out. Victory seems to have put the drain plug at sump bottom whereby all the oil drains completely. My oil changes take about 20 min.
Mechanics with vacuum pumps can use those instead with a bulkhead fitting. Bonus, they will vacuum bleed brakes too which I use mine for. BTW there are all sorts of interesting shop vac nozzle stls online worth a look while designing an extractor.
Can you elaborate? I guess you would need to connect a hose from the shopVac motor directly to the pail/bucket/canister that holds the liquid. But any unsteadiness could knock the fluid container inside the shopVac over and cause a spill.
@@sundo-pf5zv First you would need a shop vac that the fluid will fill but not overfill. Second you need to make a adaptor for the inlet of the vac using any plastic bottle top with a hole in the cap with a hose that will fit tightly in the cap and have the hose go all the way through into the container inside the vacuum. Make sure the inlet cap is firmly inserted into the inlet, other wise you need to use masking tape to keep the hose holder sealed. Then just put the vinyl hose inside the opening that fits the fluid to be drained. Turn on the vac and just wait till you see no more oil flowing inside. DONE. VF
Not entirely convinced about this process Paul. The sump is where the gunge collects and will hopeful find it's way out when the plug is pulled. Some sump plugs even have a magnet to catch any fragments. Love the channel, we're brothers from across the world mate. I'm in the UK and about your age. I love'playing around with stuff too. I am a life-long motorcyclist and woody, although I've given up with the bikes now. I've subscribed, but the frustrating thing about YT now is that they took away the category facility, consequently you end up with a mass of channels that are all a mish mash. I have some saved to a folder, yours will join them.I only played with making videos but there's one on my channel about making a Thein dust extractor you may be interested in. Stay safe ;-)
Hi Graham nice to hear from someone across the pond who enjoys the same stuff as I do. I mostly do woodworking in the winter while the bike is stored for 6 months - Uggg long time. I see they changed the TH-cam channel - it is now harder for me to find the info that I want. It's too bad. I will try warming the oil in my bike next time just to see how long it takes, but if it is still slow I will probably go back to using the drain plug. But I will use the extractor on my snow blower and lawn mower for simplicity. Take care and thanks for watching. Paul
Tried your smoothie mix, it's good. I lovemaking smoothies and this one is healthy to boot. I've just had a big health shake up so this will be a daily thing for me now I reckon.
Here we go: If the magnet catches * any fragments* ,you're pretty much done1\(the bike IS ); The magnet may catch,and does, some ( steel or iron,only)dust,swarf at the most,and is VERY useful; but you knew that,ignore these broken writings rightings...
if I have some 12v shur-flo like pumps hanging around , could i use your 'Lid Layout -less the vacuum port? I'm struggling with the plumping concept. anyone's help is appreciated. Hamp
I won't own a motorcycle if I can't do my own oil changes. Triumph charges $120 USD for a Bonneville oil change. I can do it to for half that. I could do it cheaper but I use factory Triumph oil filters. The cost between $10-15 USD.
Or, use the drain plug with the oil warm and you also flush out the crap from your sump - it's really not that difficult. You also don't want to miss any old oil as it will contaminate the new.
@@sundo-pf5zv Personally, I wouldn't waste new oil doing that. My point in sucking oil from the sump via the dipstick is that it will leave crap in there. The whole point of a sump plug is to allow a free drain of warm oil that will carry contaminants out with the flow. I then use a large syringe with a tube attached to remove old oil from the oil filter compartment (not necessary but I like to do it anyway). I never use a new sump plug, I've reused them 10+ times with no issues. If I do get a weep of oil, I wrap some PTFE tape around the threads.
Thanks for the great video! I tried this today and the bucket imploded. I used all the same parts as you with 1/4 inch tubing. The only difference was that I used a smaller shop vac but that should have meant less powerful than yours so I'm a little baffled.
A bigger shop vac just means a bigger pail. Your motor is probably more powerful than mine. Easy fix - I would use a variable speed controller like this one: www.busybeetools.com/products/router-speed-control-115v-15a.html You can get them cheaper in the States. Start low and work your way up to get the right suction. Or take a plastic vacuum pipe and drill some holes into it so it takes a bit of air from it as well as the pail - drill as many holes as you need. Hope this helps.
You also could have used a bicycle tire pump to help create a vacuum inside the bucket to pull the oil out. Thats what I did since I didn't have a Shop Vac
Thought of another way you could do this to stop the splashing. Use a CLEAR 4 or 5 gallon bucket. Put an old 5 quart oil container inside the bucket. As you are putting the lid on make sure the tube is going into the top of the oil container. This way the oil is going into the receptacle you are most likely to take to the Auto store to get rid of.
It’s always good to save some money. Did you ever have problems with excessive vacuum that the containers crush? Theoretically this should work with pulling trans fluid from big rigs? how much liquid did the motorcycle have?? Thanks!
I guess my vacuum is not as strong as others. Some have commented that the pail crushed on them. I suggested creating an opening to control the amount of vacuum in the pail. It can be as simple as a piece of duct tape over a hole in the lid to vary the size that you need. Others made a more elaborate mechanism and even included a vacuum gauge on the pail for more efficiency. My motorcycle has 4 and a bit liters of oil so I can do a couple of changes before I need to empty the pail. I also use it with antifreeze and brake fluid. Thanks for watching.
Hi Paul The Vic looks great Great build. I should have done that when I changed my front and rear differentials and my transmission, transfer case on my 4x4. I read that the Smart Car doesn’t have a drain plug. I figure that is so people will visit the dealer instead of doing there own oil changes. Rob, robsvision
I am using a RIDGID Wet/Dry Vac 6.25 hp 16 gal and made the Extractor and when I turned the vacuum on the bucket collapses, What am I doing wrong? Willy W.
Your motor is too powerful. Make an adjustable opening on the bucket lid to let air in, or around where the vacuum hose attaches to the bucket. You can try it first by holding the hose slightly away from the rubber fitting on the lid so you can see how much of an opening you need. You will also be able to hear when the vacuum is working at its most efficient.
I did it in my car , having the biggest tube you can fit and having warm oil is key. I used a 100ml syringe 😂😂😂 A year later I used a small cheap cinese pump ,10 minutes for a gallon / 4 liters ;) And it isn't hard to pump , super cheap and no need to use electricity either 👌
Thank you for this video. My thought for a faster oil extractor would be a one way pump. If u pump a one way pump it will breathe in the oil spit it out one end. Depending how fast you pump the faster itll collect the oil
I think your suction line was way over sized. There's another video of a guy using the top of a 2l plastic bottle cup off placed in front of the suction side of the vacuum with a 3/8" line from the vacuum to a container then the same sized line to where you are extracting the oil. When this guy did it, he sucked the oil out of his lawnmower in seconds. Worth a try.
Shaung1231 why couldn’t you? Attach the extraction hose to the radiator’s petcock drain outlet and youre in business. And if you let the vacuum build up in the collection vessel before opening it, as well as opening whatever bleed screws the cooling system has, you’ll be able to evacuate the system most effectively in a very short amount of time.
Well said! Build up the vacuum in the hose while all openings are closed ;) __ I'll likely use a 2 Gallon gas can as I'm only looking to do the oil change.
.. Clarification: I have the fan as specified below, and wonder if, with your savvy way of making a machine: wether you can build an air cleaner by encasing said fan. IMO, to remain uncompromised on quality, ONE NEEDS A STRONG fan to push or pull air through a high density (possibly carbon) filter
For city folks who need to balance ●Storage space for tools, ●Time to build the device right (so the device won't blow up from inadvertantly sucking oil fumes into the sparking electric motor coils of the vacuum), and balancibg ●Opportunity cost vs income foregone, and ●Risks if things don't work out : This method is likely NOT suitable. -- ONLY the Drain plug method, done right, is a COMPLETE !! JOB. -- Disadvantages of the syphon method: ▪doesn't clean the drain plug and Magnet that are full of metal shavings ▪needs extra syphoning equipment ▪takes 2 - 3× longer to get the oil out than the drain plug method
I made one exactly like the one you made. It took more then 5 hours to extract 8.5 'quarts from my Mercedes clk350. I just bought a mityvac fluid extractor from Amazon for $119 and it took 5 minutes to do the same thing. The one I made collapsed the homedepot vacume bucket. Nice try but not very effective.
Paul my vacuum has good suction and a wheel for more and less power I think it's not missing ROUTER SPEED CONTROL but thanks for the information and share your regards (sorry bad english tradusco with google)
well thought-out, once you do warm up the oil you won't need a larger hose. I myself am trying to find a manual pump similar to what's on the commercial evacuators to use on a 5 gallon bucket but all i keep finding are pumps that empty the bucket not fill it is there a specific type of manual pump to extract to the bucket?
@@PaulPomerleau I use the same system, but made from a quart jar. It works beautifully to suck the oil out of the lawn mower. I made the mistake of cutting the yard first and then trying to change the oil . The oil was too hot and ruined the plastic tubing.
Absolutely, since no liquid is touching the motor it is safe for various liquids. I have used it for oil, brake fluid, gasoline, coolant and anywhere that a hose can reach. That is why I have different size hoses. Depending on the viscosity of the fluid I have had to adjust the air flow through the vacuum hose by opening it a bit so the liquid won't hit the bottom of the bucket hard and splash back up.
I've seen a number videos with extracting motor oil, this one is interesting. But, I'm wondering why not simply use a car fuel pump with two hoses and car battery. If it can drive a fuel from tank to motor why not from motor to pail? In Europe you can buy a brand new fuel pump for some old car models e.g. Toyota for 15 $.
These are good points. First a fuel pump is usually submerged in the tank and it is the fuel that keeps the pump cool while operating. If you ran the pump out in the open air it would likely burn out quickly. Second, oil is a lot thicker than water and I don't think that it has enough power to move oil. Thanks for watching.
I don't think I would trust this method for getting the dirt and shavings out of the motor. Pulling the oil plug is my preference. Still enjoyed the Video !
Depending on the vehicle it's a matter of convenience. Harley Davidson's have the oil filter at the front of the engine so you no longer have to go under the bike to change the oil. This is true for some cars as well, take the oil and filter out from the top. It's a lot easier. For our Victory bikes we still have to go under to change the filter. After the extractor was done on my bike I removed the plug and no oil came out so I am confident that it works well. But next time I will warm the oil to speed up the process.
I can also use it on the lawn mower and snow blower where draining the oil is more difficult. I am also interested in trying this with brake bleeding. The 1/4" hose will fit perfectly over the nipple and will extract the oil fluid easily. I will have to turn down the power of the vacuum to do the brakes using the speed control I posted in the description.
Paul Pomerleau Thanks for your replies Paul. Re brakes, I remember when I was driving trucks, the workshop pumped the brake fluid from the calipers back through the brake system when replacing the fluid. It always impressed me as they didn't have to bleed them. Seemed to work well. I'm going back to the 80's on that by the way. M.A.N Diesel. Maybe it was a trick from Germany.. 😎
SoapyHB I've been using one since 09 on my 2009 can-am outlander. The drain plugs in the gen1's are notorious for stripping and mine did. The "factory fix" was to install a HeliCoil and there have been many reports of those leaking. I found a hardened drain plug that was slightly larger than factory, allowed it to cut it's own threads and ever since then I have used a vacuum extractor.
I used 2" black ABS pipe with couplers to lock it onto the lid, then a rubber coupler to hold the vacuum hose onto it. The brass fittings I think were 3/8" threaded with various nipple sizes to accommodate the different size plastic hoses.
a Drain Plug cleaning = Unavoidable for Internal Combustion Engine which has Metal On Metal moving parts that require Oil as lubricant ■ Metal Chafings sink by Gravity toward the drain plug. Hot oil drains fast through the drain plug.
All good points but some can't crawl under a car or have ramps to drive up on. Some engines have the filter on top so it is easier to change oil and filter this way. It also prevents stripping of the oil bolt and it is easier to change transmission fluid and brake fluid using this device or when changing oil on lawn mowers and snowblowers. I'm not saying it will replace everything, just that it is another inexpensive tool to use for those who need it. Thanks for watching and contributing to the comments. We all help each other this way.
How much oil do you remove and how long does it take? It took mine 15 minutes to remove 4 liters, although next time I will use the 3/8" hose and have the oil warmed up first. That should make it faster. I actually can't wait for my next oil change to try it.
The extraction process seems slow. I think you are pulling air in under the lid. If you can add a gasket or find a way to seal the underside of the lid off better the results may be better.
Also the oil was cold and I was using the smaller diameter hose. On the next oil change I got the oil nice and hot and used a larger diameter hose and it worked much better. Thanks for watching.
Or you could just make your own with things around the house. Plus here in Canada there is no way you will have a pump delivered to your door for that amount.
You are right that on the Victory the filter is under the bike, but the extractor can be used on many other things as well. Harley's have the filter at the front of the motor and some cars have it on top so now you don't have to go under. Also many people prefer to leave the drain plug alone and just change the filter. It can be used on things like lawnmowers and snowblowers where it is harder to drain the oil. I also want to see how it works for brake bleeding. I am showing that there are ways to build things yourself to save money. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video -- Any commenter here has tried it yet? - I'm wondering: re: Home Air cleaner* using a 21" fan: with COVID-19's mutated wave 2 a couple months from now: Can you build a box around a Canada Home Depot purchesd type of strong fan to make an Air cleaner? * Brand: Commercial Electric SKU# 1001094669 120V, 60 Hz, 1.35A, 162 W With 3 fan speeds
Most shopvacs have a thermal shut off if overheated, and are very durable. If he warmed up the oil, it only takes a few minutes to do this. Plus, I just use a cheap, 30 dollar shopvac from walmart to do my oil changes for the last 15 years. Still runs like a champ.
Hoping you were gonna hit the rubber coupler w/ the hammer.....Add a little funny business next time....we all need a laugh right....Ha..Ha.. Just wondering if the tube goes all the way to the bottom completely removing the oil?
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Excellent video. I've been changing oil in cars, trucks, boats, yachts and equipment for forty years. Your extractor home build is just excellent. I've used all manor techniques, tools, pumps and on and on. I will build your extractor tomorrow. I bought a Mercedes with the M112 engine. The engine has the oil filter right on top of the engine. No hot oil running down your arm but you do still have to drain the engine from underneath. On boats and yachts I use to plumb a copper tube up from the drain plug up to the top of the engine. Then use a pump or extractor to pull the oil out. That way was as neat a job as your extractor is. Plus that way I got it all.
Well done young man, well done!
I actually did this over 10 years ago when a rapid lube shop messed up the threads on the drain plug of my 1990 4cyl Cavalier. I warmed up the oil first though and it did the job in under 5 minutes. The issue I had though was that the larger suction tube allowed some air to flow through creating a bit of spray inside the bucket that misted the inside of my vacuum hose with oil. Anyway, good to see some more Canadian YT content! Thanks for posting.
Ya, getting the drain plug thread messed up is everyone's secret worry. --One poorly trained and poorly supervised tech coming hung over to the job and you'll find out ONLY later.
@@sundo-pf5zv The tech actually didn't know the "rightey-tightey lefty-losey" rule and torqued the drain plug to destruction. We didn't even get the oil changed. Same place blew the oil filter 15 years earlier on my mom's 1982 Mazda 626. I generally have *bad* experience with those shops so I never bring my own cars to those places and DIY.
Thank you. I was going to buy one of the commercial extractors . But, after seeing this video I will be making my own based on your idea. It’s a more cost effective approach and you wouldn’t have to worry about having to buy replacement parts from a specific brand, this is off the shelf readily available at any hardware store parts, which is a big plus. Plus if it needed to be cleaned it would be a breeze. I intend to make a small change to mine. And that is to attach the bigger nipples to the lid and then just cap them off with plastic sleeves and only uncap the one I need. I’ll see if it works. But overall a very nice, neat and simple idea. Again, thank you for the video.
Hi there. I just stumbled onto this video although I see its 2 years old. Great idea. I have been doing this on certain engines I have for years. Its especially great for snow mobiles since getting them up high enough to access the drain plug means needing a special stand. Also since some panels underneath can't be removed where the drain plug is, its always a messy job. There is a similar method for bleeding barkes but in this case you pressurize the master cylinder and put your clear tube over your bleeder screw on each wheel one at a time and into a small container. Pressurizing the master cylinder means you don't need somebody in the car to pump the brakes.
Great job.
The cap on the can/drum was leaking air and hence the slow flow of oil. I suggest you get a rubber gasket or tight fitting drum the next time. When you get a tight seal on the drum, make sure to lower the total vacuum level by causing an intentional leak on the shop vac or else you might end up with an imploded plastic drum. Your D.I.Y hack was the best yet on the internet for oil extraction. Thanks for the same.
Excellent tips, thanks for sharing. I will try those. I was thinking about also adding a vacuum gauge on the lid.
Hello still seen your video does meces and I found it hard today to see how you manufactured your extractor for oil, today I tried a 12v china and I could not get even 1/2 liter was mission impossible your simple economic and effective device is one of the best facts and one that I saw with a deposit of fire extinguisher and the engine of a refrigerator but yours very good and simple are the same, thank you very much for sharing a greeting from Canarias Spain greetings.
Check out my vacuum extractor video made with a vacuum pump. Achieves much higher vacuum and will do the job you said takes 15 minutes and about one or two minutes max. I think you’ll love it. The pump can be bought at Harbor freight for like 70 bucks maybe if you don’t already have one. It’ll do much better than any one you buy that’s for sure. You can’t use plastic containers like you have for it will collapse them by the way
Well done Paul. I had thought about making one myself. However, I still prefer to get under the bike and check my drain plug for metal, which is why I don't like the idea of pulling the oil out that way.
Let the sucker suck the metal out
Hey Paul ... Nice clear video. I have used a shop vac in similar situations. A word of caution .... make sure some air can get in somewhere because your shop vac motor is cooled by air going through it. Also, if you happen to be sucking up flammable liquids (gasoline) you could end up with an explosive situation as the fumes get drawn through your shop vac electric motor.
Great safety tips Mark. Thanks for sharing. Everyone should read this to be aware.
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to do this. Take care and stay well. Aloha from Hawaii
Thanks Paul for the excellent video. I used a Top-Sider pump 4 / 300,000 mi on a Mercedes diesel. Your idea is great and I thank you for your willingness to share
Bought the Top Sider and can't for the life of me get it to such after pumping the required pumps, I'm gonna convert it to be used like this
I've been using essentially the same setup for years. Works great. Also serves as a reusable storage container you can take to AutoZone for reclamation along with the rest of your filled up jugs. Pro tip so that the bucket doesn't collapse if your vacuum is powerful enough to pump it down ( mine is ) : put the bucket inside another bucket. Doubles the wall strength.
Excellent tip. Thanks for sharing.
I don't understand this: all the suction is on the pail that holds the liquid. If the outer pail holds the liquid the inner pail displaces all the volume to prevent filling, unless the volume of the liquid to be sucked is just smaller than the volume between the two pails. What am I missing?
@@sundo-pf5zv There is a bucket with a lid, under vacuum... the shop vac hose is attached to this one and is sucking air out of the bucket. Another small tube is also attached to the bucket, and air is being sucked into the bucket through this one.You stick that little tube into the engine it sucksthe oil out, which lands in the bucket. . The negative pressure in the bucket may be enough that it will collapse inward. To prevent this, slide your bucket into another bucket of the same size.
Excellent idea, don’t know if I would use it on my bike or suction gasoline using this method but will definitely use it to do oil changes on my lawnmowers. If a motor has an easily accessible drain plug it’s better to use that method. Not a good idea to run combustible gases through your shop vac though unless you want to go through the roof.
Honestly a lot of us may have most if not all of these items at home so $0-$35 and up to 15 min seems like a win.
I've noticed there's always one "dislike" on every vid., it's probably the same person, someone who's VERY jealous
Thanks for all you're doing Paul and ride safe. (a fan from Down Under)
Thanks for watching Boz - I guess your summer is just starting. Enjoy your new riding season.
The ratio counts, man. -- Everyone who watches the video wonders about the Thumbs down's. IMO it's a group of friends in puberty thinking it's great fun causing damage in society. It's some form of Youth Group Think. It's a maturity issue. Easy to see why they do it .. Pea sized, immature brains set these downers. Eggnore!
Ingenious, But Paul, much easier to use the drain plug. And for all of those doing their own oil change on a Victory, tilt the bike to the right for a few seconds to drain any oil from the primary case into the crankcase.
Good stuff Paul, as usual. It reminds me of my Harbor Freight brake bleeder.
Just found this video. You want a smaller hose. The slow speed is caused by not being able to fill the crankcase with air.
I was going to make one of these this weekend. Thanks for the vid.
This'll be really good for Harleys since all the oil doesn't seem to drain out. Victory seems to have put the drain plug at sump bottom whereby all the oil drains completely. My oil changes take about 20 min.
Mechanics with vacuum pumps can use those instead with a bulkhead fitting. Bonus, they will vacuum bleed brakes too which I use mine for. BTW there are all sorts of interesting shop vac nozzle stls online worth a look while designing an extractor.
Pretty slick . I might try a similar setup for removing trans fluid . Thanks for posting.
I applaud your creativity brother. Blessings. 👍
I have found that if you put the bottle inside the shop vac and have a hot engine the oil will flow a lot quicker. Just saying fella.
Now that is interesting. I never would have thought of that. Thanks for sharing.
Can you elaborate? I guess you would need to connect a hose from the shopVac motor directly to the pail/bucket/canister that holds the liquid. But any unsteadiness could knock the fluid container inside the shopVac over and cause a spill.
@@sundo-pf5zv First you would need a shop vac that the fluid will fill but not overfill. Second you need to make a adaptor for the inlet of the vac using any plastic bottle top with a hole in the cap with a hose that will fit tightly in the cap and have the hose go all the way through into the container inside the vacuum. Make sure the inlet cap is firmly inserted into the inlet, other wise you need to use masking tape to keep the hose holder sealed. Then just put the vinyl hose inside the opening that fits the fluid to be drained. Turn on the vac and just wait till you see no more oil flowing inside. DONE. VF
As usual, great video Paul. I learn so much from you. Thank you
Not entirely convinced about this process Paul. The sump is where the gunge collects and will hopeful find it's way out when the plug is pulled. Some sump plugs even have a magnet to catch any fragments.
Love the channel, we're brothers from across the world mate. I'm in the UK and about your age. I love'playing around with stuff too. I am a life-long motorcyclist and woody, although I've given up with the bikes now.
I've subscribed, but the frustrating thing about YT now is that they took away the category facility, consequently you end up with a mass of channels that are all a mish mash. I have some saved to a folder, yours will join them.I only played with making videos but there's one on my channel about making a Thein dust extractor you may be interested in. Stay safe ;-)
Hi Graham nice to hear from someone across the pond who enjoys the same stuff as I do. I mostly do woodworking in the winter while the bike is stored for 6 months - Uggg long time.
I see they changed the TH-cam channel - it is now harder for me to find the info that I want. It's too bad.
I will try warming the oil in my bike next time just to see how long it takes, but if it is still slow I will probably go back to using the drain plug. But I will use the extractor on my snow blower and lawn mower for simplicity.
Take care and thanks for watching.
Paul
Cheers Paul ;-)
Tried your smoothie mix, it's good. I lovemaking smoothies and this one is healthy to boot. I've just had a big health shake up so this will be a daily thing for me now I reckon.
Here we go:
If the magnet catches * any fragments* ,you're pretty much done1\(the bike IS );
The magnet may catch,and does, some ( steel or iron,only)dust,swarf at the most,and is VERY useful;
but you knew that,ignore these broken writings rightings...
This is a good idea, kinda like a giant mighty vac.
Brilliant video. Superb presentation.
if I have some 12v shur-flo like pumps hanging around , could i use your 'Lid Layout -less the vacuum port? I'm struggling with the plumping concept. anyone's help is appreciated. Hamp
I won't own a motorcycle if I can't do my own oil changes. Triumph charges $120 USD for a Bonneville oil change. I can do it to for half that. I could do it cheaper but I use factory Triumph oil filters. The cost between $10-15 USD.
Or, use the drain plug with the oil warm and you also flush out the crap from your sump - it's really not that difficult. You also don't want to miss any old oil as it will contaminate the new.
I would pour brand new oil through the filler opening and hope it will flush more old oil out.
@@sundo-pf5zv Personally, I wouldn't waste new oil doing that. My point in sucking oil from the sump via the dipstick is that it will leave crap in there. The whole point of a sump plug is to allow a free drain of warm oil that will carry contaminants out with the flow. I then use a large syringe with a tube attached to remove old oil from the oil filter compartment (not necessary but I like to do it anyway). I never use a new sump plug, I've reused them 10+ times with no issues. If I do get a weep of oil, I wrap some PTFE tape around the threads.
Thanks for the great video! I tried this today and the bucket imploded. I used all the same parts as you with 1/4 inch tubing. The only difference was that I used a smaller shop vac but that should have meant less powerful than yours so I'm a little baffled.
A bigger shop vac just means a bigger pail. Your motor is probably more powerful than mine. Easy fix - I would use a variable speed controller like this one:
www.busybeetools.com/products/router-speed-control-115v-15a.html
You can get them cheaper in the States. Start low and work your way up to get the right suction. Or take a plastic vacuum pipe and drill some holes into it so it takes a bit of air from it as well as the pail - drill as many holes as you need. Hope this helps.
Paul Pomerleau excellent! Thanks Paul!
Or just slide your bucket into another one of the same size and it will keep the interior one from collapsing.
You also could have used a bicycle tire pump to help create a vacuum inside the bucket to pull the oil out. Thats what I did since I didn't have a Shop Vac
Good tip. Thanks for sharing. The more ideas we have the better it is for everyone.
Thought of another way you could do this to stop the splashing. Use a CLEAR 4 or 5 gallon bucket. Put an old 5 quart oil container inside the bucket. As you are putting the lid on make sure the tube is going into the top of the oil container. This way the oil is going into the receptacle you are most likely to take to the Auto store to get rid of.
Excellent idea. Thanks for the great tip.
REALLY LIKE that idea
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice project. I like your tool storage at the end of your work bench.
It’s always good to save some money. Did you ever have problems with excessive vacuum that the containers crush? Theoretically this should work with pulling trans fluid from big rigs? how much liquid did the motorcycle have?? Thanks!
I guess my vacuum is not as strong as others. Some have commented that the pail crushed on them. I suggested creating an opening to control the amount of vacuum in the pail. It can be as simple as a piece of duct tape over a hole in the lid to vary the size that you need. Others made a more elaborate mechanism and even included a vacuum gauge on the pail for more efficiency. My motorcycle has 4 and a bit liters of oil so I can do a couple of changes before I need to empty the pail. I also use it with antifreeze and brake fluid. Thanks for watching.
Hi Paul
The Vic looks great
Great build. I should have done that when I changed my front and rear differentials and my transmission, transfer case on my 4x4.
I read that the Smart Car doesn’t have a drain plug. I figure that is so people will visit the dealer instead of doing there own oil changes.
Rob, robsvision
Its a shame that Victory Motorcycles are no more. They are nice bikes. Ride Safe!
I am using a RIDGID Wet/Dry Vac 6.25 hp 16 gal and made the Extractor and when I turned the vacuum on the bucket collapses,
What am I doing wrong?
Willy W.
Your motor is too powerful. Make an adjustable opening on the bucket lid to let air in, or around where the vacuum hose attaches to the bucket. You can try it first by holding the hose slightly away from the rubber fitting on the lid so you can see how much of an opening you need. You will also be able to hear when the vacuum is working at its most efficient.
I did it in my car , having the biggest tube you can fit and having warm oil is key.
I used a 100ml syringe 😂😂😂
A year later I used a small cheap cinese pump ,10 minutes for a gallon / 4 liters ;)
And it isn't hard to pump , super cheap and no need to use electricity either 👌
AWESOME
I like it, thanks for sharing. I'm going to try it in my boat
Nice video and it’s given me a lot of ideas!
You are a clever and helpful man, thanks Paul
Thank you for this video. My thought for a faster oil extractor would be a one way pump. If u pump a one way pump it will breathe in the oil spit it out one end. Depending how fast you pump the faster itll collect the oil
I think your suction line was way over sized. There's another video of a guy using the top of a 2l plastic bottle cup off placed in front of the suction side of the vacuum with a 3/8" line from the vacuum to a container then the same sized line to where you are extracting the oil. When this guy did it, he sucked the oil out of his lawnmower in seconds.
Worth a try.
Thanks for the great tip. I am going to try this.
Great idea!! Going to make one today!
Clever! Thanks for sharing the how to... would be nice to use for coolant flushes too.
Shaung1231 why couldn’t you? Attach the extraction hose to the radiator’s petcock drain outlet and youre in business. And if you let the vacuum build up in the collection vessel before opening it, as well as opening whatever bleed screws the cooling system has, you’ll be able to evacuate the system most effectively in a very short amount of time.
Well said! Build up the vacuum in the hose while all openings are closed ;) __ I'll likely use a 2 Gallon gas can as I'm only looking to do the oil change.
Great project! Thank you sir!
Great video!
.. Clarification: I have the fan as specified below, and wonder if, with your savvy way of making a machine: wether you can build an air cleaner by encasing said fan. IMO, to remain uncompromised on quality, ONE NEEDS A STRONG fan to push or pull air through a high density (possibly carbon) filter
For city folks who need to balance ●Storage space for tools, ●Time to build the device right (so the device won't blow up from inadvertantly sucking oil fumes into the sparking electric motor coils of the vacuum), and balancibg ●Opportunity cost vs income foregone, and ●Risks if things don't work out : This method is likely NOT suitable. --
ONLY the Drain plug method, done right, is a COMPLETE !! JOB.
--
Disadvantages of the syphon method:
▪doesn't clean the drain plug and Magnet that are full of metal shavings
▪needs extra syphoning equipment
▪takes 2 - 3× longer to get the oil out than the drain plug method
I made one exactly like the one you made. It took more then 5 hours to extract 8.5 'quarts from my Mercedes clk350. I just bought a mityvac fluid extractor from Amazon for $119 and it took 5 minutes to do the same thing. The one I made collapsed the homedepot vacume bucket. Nice try but not very effective.
I appreciate your comment. The more info we have the better for everyone. Thanks for watching.
Paul my vacuum has good suction and a wheel for more and less power I think it's not missing ROUTER SPEED CONTROL but thanks for the information and share your regards (sorry bad english tradusco with google)
👍 Good idea! But I would use a bottle easy to transport.
well thought-out, once you do warm up the oil you won't need a larger hose. I myself am trying to find a manual pump similar to what's on the commercial evacuators to use on a 5 gallon bucket but all i keep finding are pumps that empty the bucket not fill it is there a specific type of manual pump to extract to the bucket?
What size ship vac is ok? I have the little one
Actually a small shop-vac is better as you only want to create a vacuum. A large one will usually crush the pail.
Warm the oil, but don't let it get too hot or the tubing will get too soft and collapse under vacuum.
Good point. Thanks for sharing.
@@PaulPomerleau I use the same system, but made from a quart jar. It works beautifully to suck the oil out of the lawn mower. I made the mistake of cutting the yard first and then trying to change the oil . The oil was too hot and ruined the plastic tubing.
Can use the same process for other fluid extractions as well. Thanks!
Absolutely, since no liquid is touching the motor it is safe for various liquids. I have used it for oil, brake fluid, gasoline, coolant and anywhere that a hose can reach. That is why I have different size hoses. Depending on the viscosity of the fluid I have had to adjust the air flow through the vacuum hose by opening it a bit so the liquid won't hit the bottom of the bucket hard and splash back up.
@@PaulPomerleau Thanks.
Nice work. I've seen manual pumps on amazon for less than $50. Wonder how good they work and wonder how much you start to sweat after 10 minutes.
If its not DIY u'll pay sooner or later via a breakdown.
Nice job... excellent video !
great video..and the job is very neat n clean
brilliant , thanks friend
Woah impressive!
🌹🌹 1 269 845 6235
I've seen a number videos with extracting motor oil, this one is interesting. But, I'm wondering why not simply use a car fuel pump with two hoses and car battery. If it can drive a fuel from tank to motor why not from motor to pail? In Europe you can buy a brand new fuel pump for some old car models e.g. Toyota for 15 $.
These are good points. First a fuel pump is usually submerged in the tank and it is the fuel that keeps the pump cool while operating. If you ran the pump out in the open air it would likely burn out quickly. Second, oil is a lot thicker than water and I don't think that it has enough power to move oil. Thanks for watching.
I use a chinese handpump , 10 minutes easy on arms ( not hard to use) ,work done ! :)
I don't think I would trust this method for getting the dirt and shavings out of the motor. Pulling the oil plug is my preference. Still enjoyed the Video !
Nick Heinz don’t forget the magnet😁
Another good one Paul. Thanks, but tell me, why is this better than draining the oil? How do you know you have all the oil out? Chris
Depending on the vehicle it's a matter of convenience. Harley Davidson's have the oil filter at the front of the engine so you no longer have to go under the bike to change the oil. This is true for some cars as well, take the oil and filter out from the top. It's a lot easier. For our Victory bikes we still have to go under to change the filter. After the extractor was done on my bike I removed the plug and no oil came out so I am confident that it works well. But next time I will warm the oil to speed up the process.
I can also use it on the lawn mower and snow blower where draining the oil is more difficult.
I am also interested in trying this with brake bleeding. The 1/4" hose will fit perfectly over the nipple and will extract the oil fluid easily. I will have to turn down the power of the vacuum to do the brakes using the speed control I posted in the description.
I've used an extractor on every small engine I own and it works like a charm... Honda 4 Wheeler being the first thing I tested it on..
Paul Pomerleau Thanks for your replies Paul. Re brakes, I remember when I was driving trucks, the workshop pumped the brake fluid from the calipers back through the brake system when replacing the fluid. It always impressed me as they didn't have to bleed them. Seemed to work well. I'm going back to the 80's on that by the way. M.A.N Diesel. Maybe it was a trick from Germany.. 😎
SoapyHB I've been using one since 09 on my 2009 can-am outlander. The drain plugs in the gen1's are notorious for stripping and mine did. The "factory fix" was to install a HeliCoil and there have been many reports of those leaking. I found a hardened drain plug that was slightly larger than factory, allowed it to cut it's own threads and ever since then I have used a vacuum extractor.
Yay Canada!
Yes i am found. Nice job. Thank's my friend. Hi from to Turkey.
Fun project I guess, but for 200 dollars you can get a JD Industries 6 gallon fluid extractor on Amazon with free shipping that will pump itself out.
Once again you are talking about USA, certainly not here in Canada. Thanks for watching.
@@PaulPomerleau Amazon ships everything to Canada that they do the US. Nice try.
Well done sir
What size were your fittings and pipe pieces?
I used 2" black ABS pipe with couplers to lock it onto the lid, then a rubber coupler to hold the vacuum hose onto it. The brass fittings I think were 3/8" threaded with various nipple sizes to accommodate the different size plastic hoses.
a Drain Plug cleaning = Unavoidable for Internal Combustion Engine which has Metal On Metal moving parts that require Oil as lubricant ■ Metal Chafings sink by Gravity toward the drain plug. Hot oil drains fast through the drain plug.
All good points but some can't crawl under a car or have ramps to drive up on. Some engines have the filter on top so it is easier to change oil and filter this way. It also prevents stripping of the oil bolt and it is easier to change transmission fluid and brake fluid using this device or when changing oil on lawn mowers and snowblowers. I'm not saying it will replace everything, just that it is another inexpensive tool to use for those who need it. Thanks for watching and contributing to the comments. We all help each other this way.
Have been changing oil in boats for quite a while like this, the only way to on an inboard V8.
How much oil do you remove and how long does it take? It took mine 15 minutes to remove 4 liters, although next time I will use the 3/8" hose and have the oil warmed up first. That should make it faster. I actually can't wait for my next oil change to try it.
That is the trick. 3/8 hose and hot oil. I can empty a 454, about 7 quarts, in a couple minutes.
Paul, nice idea. Can I ask where you sourced the bucket? Not finding anything like that around here.
I live in Canada and got it at the Home Depot. Here is the link:
www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.19l5-gallon---graduated-measuring-bucket.1000784935.html
Hello. I like your videos very much. Please remove how to change the oil in the front fork.
Ride safe very good job paul :-)
The extraction process seems slow. I think you are pulling air in under the lid. If you can add a gasket or find a way to seal the underside of the lid off better the results may be better.
Also the oil was cold and I was using the smaller diameter hose. On the next oil change I got the oil nice and hot and used a larger diameter hose and it worked much better. Thanks for watching.
Nice and easy. TKS very constructive
👍👍😊
Imagine getting used engine oil in the home vacuum cleaner. Explain that to the wife.
You deserved a like in my opinion! Cheers ;)
23$us you can buy from aliexpress a ready made pump set with all the pipes and electric conections wires to 12volts dc
Which makes it about $40 Canadian also I can siphon gasoline, the aliexpress pump can't. Gas will eat through all the moving parts of the pump
Thumbs up for your effort, but u can buy a 12volt pump for $18 delivered that works much faster
Or you could just make your own with things around the house. Plus here in Canada there is no way you will have a pump delivered to your door for that amount.
yep, got mine from eBay for $17 delivered. Works great
why not just drain it sense you have to go under bike anyway?
You are right that on the Victory the filter is under the bike, but the extractor can be used on many other things as well. Harley's have the filter at the front of the motor and some cars have it on top so now you don't have to go under. Also many people prefer to leave the drain plug alone and just change the filter. It can be used on things like lawnmowers and snowblowers where it is harder to drain the oil. I also want to see how it works for brake bleeding. I am showing that there are ways to build things yourself to save money. Thanks for watching.
master
Awesome video -- Any commenter here has tried it yet? - I'm wondering: re: Home Air cleaner* using a 21" fan: with COVID-19's mutated wave 2 a couple months from now: Can you build a box around a Canada Home Depot purchesd type of strong fan to make an Air cleaner?
* Brand: Commercial Electric
SKU# 1001094669
120V, 60 Hz, 1.35A, 162 W
With 3 fan speeds
oil change 30$---burnt shop vac 100$
I would like to know where you can get an oil change on a motorcycle for 30.
Most shopvacs have a thermal shut off if overheated, and are very durable. If he warmed up the oil, it only takes a few minutes to do this. Plus, I just use a cheap, 30 dollar shopvac from walmart to do my oil changes for the last 15 years. Still runs like a champ.
$32.99 oil extractor with amazon and is electric
Sure, in the States. Certainly not here in Canada
👌👍👍👍👍👍
eBay 12 v oil pump extractor $20
*"and save your money"* ..... what?
oh, i get it,that bike is not yours,you're just the mechanic?... (right?)
No, as I said in the video the price of an oil extractor in Canada can be quite high, so build it yourself and save your money.
God, you're dumb, Jose !!
Hoping you were gonna hit the rubber coupler w/ the hammer.....Add a little funny business next time....we all need a laugh right....Ha..Ha..
Just wondering if the tube goes all the way to the bottom completely removing the oil?
That's a motorcycle. Just use your drain plug.
Yup, just showing other ways of doing things.
Bernie Diaper - stop making sense