Youre the man , you lowered car first before tightening them up , i did it after watching another video without lowering car on wheels and got extreme negative camber
As always, detailed and well done. Did the same work about 5 years ago back when I still had my e87 118d N47B20 befeore my 130 now. After 250k they started leaking, I used some Sachs OEM-level shocks for the replacement. Something Id like to add that I did on my car; I just tightened the shocks lower bolts after I lowered the car back on its wheels, that way the shock is on neutral riding level, not fully feathered out. If that really makes a difference is something I dont know but not a lot of extra work for piece of mind. Btw my 118d N47B20 died at 267k because the high pressure Diesel pump ate itself up and metal bits were all over the place, injectors included. The 118d N47B20 from my dad als died at 180k because of the Diesel pump probably (Workshop just said metal bits in diesel system but didnt specify the cause, they changed an injector and the problem with engine quickly came back, diesel pump seems logical) and a person I know had a 120d N47B20... Jep, also the Diesel pump died and the car was financially totaled as well. Mostly people talk about the timing chains but not a lot about the diesel pumps. If I had an N47 again (kinda looking for an e91) I would instantly change out that pump and diesel filter whilst on that, maybe refurbish injectors as well since the system needs air bleeding anyways.
Another very good informative video Sir. Would be good to do a follow up video to show how much the car has improved with its new shock absorbers. Wishing you a very Merry Christmas from the U.K. 👍
Thank you very much for sharing!! 🙏 Kindly share your driving experience after changing both front and rear parts. It’s quite annoying for me driving my e87 with run flat tires and feel every single road bump not absorbed by the original ones …
Hi George/M Tech Guy - I just completed this on my 2007 BMW 118D - Thanks a million for all of your help! - Your channel is excellent and its great that you show the correct procedures and all of your hacks! - I also put in the Bilstein B4 shocks on with the slightly smaller 15mm hex nut for the botton of the shock and managed to gradually get this up to the OEM rRecommended 38 newton meters of torque - I am just wondering if I went to far considering thi is a slightly smaller nut? Best regards and thanks again!!!! - Your channel is really excellent!!!!
Don’t know much about ULEZ, here in NZ during an annual inspection they don’t even read the emission levels, so long as the exhaust isn’t smoking she’s a pass 👍
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Youre the man , you lowered car first before tightening them up , i did it after watching another video without lowering car on wheels and got extreme negative camber
Thank you very much. I'd like to see the in tank fuel filter replacement video BMW says it's a lifetime filter I think that's BS.
I'd like to see this video too
As always, detailed and well done. Did the same work about 5 years ago back when I still had my e87 118d N47B20 befeore my 130 now. After 250k they started leaking, I used some Sachs OEM-level shocks for the replacement.
Something Id like to add that I did on my car; I just tightened the shocks lower bolts after I lowered the car back on its wheels, that way the shock is on neutral riding level, not fully feathered out. If that really makes a difference is something I dont know but not a lot of extra work for piece of mind.
Btw my 118d N47B20 died at 267k because the high pressure Diesel pump ate itself up and metal bits were all over the place, injectors included. The 118d N47B20 from my dad als died at 180k because of the Diesel pump probably (Workshop just said metal bits in diesel system but didnt specify the cause, they changed an injector and the problem with engine quickly came back, diesel pump seems logical) and a person I know had a 120d N47B20... Jep, also the Diesel pump died and the car was financially totaled as well. Mostly people talk about the timing chains but not a lot about the diesel pumps. If I had an N47 again (kinda looking for an e91) I would instantly change out that pump and diesel filter whilst on that, maybe refurbish injectors as well since the system needs air bleeding anyways.
very nice and detailed DIY, thank you!
No worries, thanks for checking out the video!
Another very good informative video Sir.
Would be good to do a follow up video to show how much the car has improved with its new shock absorbers.
Wishing you a very Merry Christmas from the U.K. 👍
Great suggestion!
fantastic video im doing the same job but springs added...I can refer to this as I go 👍👍👍
Nice one 👍
Thank you very much for sharing!! 🙏 Kindly share your driving experience after changing both front and rear parts. It’s quite annoying for me driving my e87 with run flat tires and feel every single road bump not absorbed by the original ones …
Will do soon 👍
Why dont you not lock it on top😂 with the 6mm
Hi George/M Tech Guy - I just completed this on my 2007 BMW 118D - Thanks a million for all of your help! - Your channel is excellent and its great that you show the correct procedures and all of your hacks! - I also put in the Bilstein B4 shocks on with the slightly smaller 15mm hex nut for the botton of the shock and managed to gradually get this up to the OEM rRecommended 38 newton meters of torque - I am just wondering if I went to far considering thi is a slightly smaller nut?
Best regards and thanks again!!!! - Your channel is really excellent!!!!
Nice 👍
Why do you pump them up before installation? Also would you not check/change the bottom mount?
Hi. Thanks for another great video. Wondered where you sourced your Bilstein suspension components in NZ? Cheers
Bought them out of Europe from Spareto
Miss my E87. Bloody ULEZ put an end to that. Nonetheless still love watching your videos!
130i are ULEZ and CAZ compliant
Don’t know much about ULEZ, here in NZ during an annual inspection they don’t even read the emission levels, so long as the exhaust isn’t smoking she’s a pass 👍
@@MTechGuy are you from the UK originally? Your accent is very british
@@vviiper Yes, I’m originally from England, I now live in New Zealand
if I had to add anything don't do what I did check your mounts before taking everything apart if you only have one car 😱😱🤣🤣🤣 yes im an idiot... 😐
No torque wrench to torque to spec??
Nope, I wouldn’t bother. To be honest you’d struggle to get the tools in there to counter hold it and torque it
Nice video but camera is too closely focused