FYI You don't really need to put the ceramic grease on the back of the pad, that is what the fibre material on the back of the pad is for and the grease doesn't serve a purpose in that location. The ceramic grease goes only on the pad part in contact with the caliper carrier to ensure they don't stick/seize, and can release away from the disc (which is the tab part you were pushing in with a screw driver). Anyway enjoyed your video and the Bedford laps, some of the tight turns make it a bit of a chore with FWD I found, but a track day is a track day. If you come home in one piece its always a good day!!
Correct, ceramic grease can do more harm than good if it migrates onto the braking surface. Especially for track cars where everything gets extremely hot and the grease turns runny and can easily make its way onto the brake rotor and other parts. Best to avoid brake grease by default and then only ever apply it if you have a chronic noise issue that can't be solved by any other means.
This has bugged my Cupra Ateca for a couple of years now. I remember the video which you posted about the noise. I always reverse out of my drive and every time I hear the clunking of the brakes.. Will now look into changing the pads and see if it sorts it.🤞
Hey look into the macan 95b calipers, they're a direct fit and they dont really need new discs, maybe later you can upgrade to a 345mm disc from the 6r but it's not needed. They are 4 piston calipers and are about 500 quid for a pair at the porsche dealership. And brake lines are about 80 quid.
Do MK6 GTi pads have those springs on too? On older VAG’s without the springs use to grease with grey brake paste stuff (same as shown) plus on the pad tabs end that move at top & bottom of caliper
This video could not come at a better time looking to change pads and disc on 1.4fr 2017 leon(not remapped) But what pads/disc would you recommend ,i dont go on track but do drive spiritedly on occassions. Or do you recommend oem from seat Thanks andrew
Hey Cameron, I wouldn't bother with OEM from Seat as since Dieselgate VWG parts have just gone up and up in price and bare no relation to what the parts cost to make, as the same parts without the VWG logos show. I'd probably keep it as it is if you don't drive on track so get OEM spec discs and pads, I used to rate Pagid but not so sure now, Zimmerman discs, Textar pads or TRW all very good. Febi Bilstein are good too and probably what I'd go for now, just make sure the discs are Geomet coated so they have a bit of protection (it's a think matt silver paint), cheap discs come oiled to stop corrosion in transit. Just checked and they do; www.febi.com/en/car/braking/
Great video, really useful thanks. I use EBC Bluestuff NDX for trackdays and they are great so long as they get properly bedded in (which is a right faff). How do you find the wear rates? I get about 2-3 trackdays max.
You just need to undo the 2x5mm allen bolts to remove the parking brake motors, then wind the spindle back by hand. Don't listen to anyone who insists that you need an OBD scan tool to do the rear brakes.
I'm sure I've done some and it's no big deal if you use an OBD tool, they are so cheap now I don't know why any owner wouldn't have one even if you can do it without.
Hi Andrew, i have a mk7 clubsport, how long does such an engine last, and hold its power? Because now with those very stupid prices for the new gti's here in belgium, i just gonna keep my clubsport till it breaks down.... Now i have 103.000 km.... Thanks.
Just keep the oil fresh and be gentle until oil warm and it could last a very long time. Lots of short journeys no good either. I totally understand regarding price of new GTIs, you aren’t the only person holding onto an older but still very modern one
It’s a good tip but unfortunately when it’s windy the cardboard gets picked up and distributes the bolts all over the drive, often under the car. I do have a magnetic tray I use for more complicated dismantling so I’ll use that next time 👍
Thanks 👍 The maintenance videos would normally sit on the vagwiz channel but this is effectively a continuation of videos on the Clubsport S from last summer
I was very interested in the fact you use EBC pads - I was going to fit an EBC kit to my R Estate with yellowstuff pads & 2 piece floating front discs. Had to abandon that idea though, as I was going to have it done at a well known Motorsport supplier in Wales on holiday - but, on service, my rear pads are actually down to the metal, so didn't want to chance a trip of 400 odd motorway miles before fitting! Had read some negative reviews about EBC online, but you seem to get on fine with them! I've had to pass this time, but I'll certainly consider the EBC kit next time. Great content, it's not easy to show footage from such cramped spaces. Incidentally, the 2 piece EBC kit is actually cheaper (fitted too) than the £1306 VW quoted me for standard front/rear discs & pads....
Wonderful video, thank you. I’m still running the OEM Clubsport S/Performance Pack Rotors and Pads on my R. They survived a track day but I doubt they’d survive two. 😂 will need to upgrade them, hadn’t considered just pads.
Thanks for mentioning the R90 sticker, always wondered if uprated EBC pads would count as a modification for insurance purposes. The whole what counts as a mod is so grey imho. Is the same true for slotted/grooved/drilled discs, if R90 certified then OK to swap as a non-mod?
Good point. Not sure why I didn't mention that. Problem is it only does it when the ambient temperature is over 18 degrees. Hence why it only started to plague me in the summer after I bought the car in Feb. I suspect the calipers expand a bit being alloy and the pads don't and they get even looser. Will know for sure next year :)
FYI You don't really need to put the ceramic grease on the back of the pad, that is what the fibre material on the back of the pad is for and the grease doesn't serve a purpose in that location. The ceramic grease goes only on the pad part in contact with the caliper carrier to ensure they don't stick/seize, and can release away from the disc (which is the tab part you were pushing in with a screw driver). Anyway enjoyed your video and the Bedford laps, some of the tight turns make it a bit of a chore with FWD I found, but a track day is a track day. If you come home in one piece its always a good day!!
Correct, ceramic grease can do more harm than good if it migrates onto the braking surface. Especially for track cars where everything gets extremely hot and the grease turns runny and can easily make its way onto the brake rotor and other parts. Best to avoid brake grease by default and then only ever apply it if you have a chronic noise issue that can't be solved by any other means.
Nice work Andrew.
Yes, that distinctive ‘clunk’. Used to QC, it was always the VAG cars that would do this. Budget pads the workshop fitted.
The second I got my Mk7.5 it made that sound. It didn’t alarm me as my friends GTI, same year, sounds the exact same.
No clonking noise there great job and I've learned how to do my brakes 😀
I wouldn't drop the bolts on the ground like that in case they pick up any dirt when re-fitting.
This has bugged my Cupra Ateca for a couple of years now. I remember the video which you posted about the noise.
I always reverse out of my drive and every time I hear the clunking of the brakes.. Will now look into changing the pads
and see if it sorts it.🤞
Hey look into the macan 95b calipers, they're a direct fit and they dont really need new discs, maybe later you can upgrade to a 345mm disc from the 6r but it's not needed. They are 4 piston calipers and are about 500 quid for a pair at the porsche dealership. And brake lines are about 80 quid.
Good tip thanks
Great mod and great to see you out on the track putting them to good use 🏎🎯🏆
🙌🏻
Them GTI seats are so nice
Do MK6 GTi pads have those springs on too?
On older VAG’s without the springs use to grease with grey brake paste stuff (same as shown) plus on the pad tabs end that move at top & bottom of caliper
This video could not come at a better time looking to change pads and disc on 1.4fr 2017 leon(not remapped)
But what pads/disc would you recommend ,i dont go on track but do drive spiritedly on occassions.
Or do you recommend oem from seat
Thanks andrew
Hey Cameron, I wouldn't bother with OEM from Seat as since Dieselgate VWG parts have just gone up and up in price and bare no relation to what the parts cost to make, as the same parts without the VWG logos show. I'd probably keep it as it is if you don't drive on track so get OEM spec discs and pads, I used to rate Pagid but not so sure now, Zimmerman discs, Textar pads or TRW all very good. Febi Bilstein are good too and probably what I'd go for now, just make sure the discs are Geomet coated so they have a bit of protection (it's a think matt silver paint), cheap discs come oiled to stop corrosion in transit. Just checked and they do;
www.febi.com/en/car/braking/
ATE Ceramic
Abit late but thank you for the info andrew i totally forgot i asked but then just suddenly rerembered.@@volkswizard
@@MercSLRFanthanks for the suggestion mate
Great video, really useful thanks. I use EBC Bluestuff NDX for trackdays and they are great so long as they get properly bedded in (which is a right faff). How do you find the wear rates? I get about 2-3 trackdays max.
Good video/review. How is the initial bite and do they work from cold well?,
Good video. Have you ever fitted rear brake components yourself Andrew? Just asking because the electric parking brake needs to be released i think?
You just need to undo the 2x5mm allen bolts to remove the parking brake motors, then wind the spindle back by hand. Don't listen to anyone who insists that you need an OBD scan tool to do the rear brakes.
I'm sure I've done some and it's no big deal if you use an OBD tool, they are so cheap now I don't know why any owner wouldn't have one even if you can do it without.
Hi Andrew, i have a mk7 clubsport, how long does such an engine last, and hold its power? Because now with those very stupid prices for the new gti's here in belgium, i just gonna keep my clubsport till it breaks down.... Now i have 103.000 km.... Thanks.
Just keep the oil fresh and be gentle until oil warm and it could last a very long time. Lots of short journeys no good either. I totally understand regarding price of new GTIs, you aren’t the only person holding onto an older but still very modern one
Nice work as usual but as said already, put a sheet of cardboard down to keep all your parts clean and grit free.
It’s a good tip but unfortunately when it’s windy the cardboard gets picked up and distributes the bolts all over the drive, often under the car. I do have a magnetic tray I use for more complicated dismantling so I’ll use that next time 👍
This guy is living my dream
Well at least that's sorted it
Love these maintenance videos
Thanks 👍 The maintenance videos would normally sit on the vagwiz channel but this is effectively a continuation of videos on the Clubsport S from last summer
I was very interested in the fact you use EBC pads - I was going to fit an EBC kit to my R Estate with yellowstuff pads & 2 piece floating front discs.
Had to abandon that idea though, as I was going to have it done at a well known Motorsport supplier in Wales on holiday - but, on service, my rear pads are actually down to the metal, so didn't want to chance a trip of 400 odd motorway miles before fitting!
Had read some negative reviews about EBC online, but you seem to get on fine with them! I've had to pass this time, but I'll certainly consider the EBC kit next time.
Great content, it's not easy to show footage from such cramped spaces.
Incidentally, the 2 piece EBC kit is actually cheaper (fitted too) than the £1306 VW quoted me for standard front/rear discs & pads....
Brilliant video thank you Andrew
You own the best golf GTI ever made
Vdub:)
Thanks JB, yes indeed the Clubsport S is a very special car
Bellissima Golf 7 GTI
Wonderful video, thank you. I’m still running the OEM Clubsport S/Performance Pack Rotors and Pads on my R. They survived a track day but I doubt they’d survive two. 😂 will need to upgrade them, hadn’t considered just pads.
Thanks for mentioning the R90 sticker, always wondered if uprated EBC pads would count as a modification for insurance purposes. The whole what counts as a mod is so grey imho. Is the same true for slotted/grooved/drilled discs, if R90 certified then OK to swap as a non-mod?
What about the rattle 😂
Good point. Not sure why I didn't mention that. Problem is it only does it when the ambient temperature is over 18 degrees. Hence why it only started to plague me in the summer after I bought the car in Feb. I suspect the calipers expand a bit being alloy and the pads don't and they get even looser. Will know for sure next year :)
EBC are absolute garbage.
I know there are some not so good reports from a while back but these pads speak for themselves in the video.