Ford Kuga DPF Pressure Sensor - How to replace/repair cheaply! Links and 2021 update in description.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- OBDII Link: www.amazon.co....
www.autodoc.co...
Note on the sensor: I paid £47 but on checking the link I can now see the same one is £111!!! But there are other cheaper option on there and always check for voucher codes:
www.autodoc.co...
www.autodoc.co...
A fault which could the any number of issues showed on our car as a Engine Malfunction and the engine was in LIMP mode (low power). It is OK to drive in LIMP mode. The only way of knowing the exact issue (or get a good idea) is to scan the car using and OBDII scanner. This may sound intimidating and technical but its not. I bought one (Ancel 410 £39 Amazon Dec 2019) and it gave me the same code as when the AA man also scanned the car. The issue was a low voltage circuit on the DPF pressure sensor. Again, sounds difficult but it is amazingly simple to fix. The low voltage indicates the sensor has failed and needs replacing. As of Dec 2019 the part from Ford was £208 inc VAT. You can find similar sensors on Ebay for as low as £13 but I bought one from AutoDoc (Germany) for £47 just to get a branded version which I thought would be more reliable. Its called a STARK Sensor for Exhaust Pressure and you can check if it fits your car. Mine was actually fitted with an after market sensor from a previous DPF issue, it was this one that failed.
Once delivered the part is very simple to fit. It is located attached to the battery housing on the back right of the engine bay and its is just a case of using a Torx bit to undo the screw (very cheap to buy). Loosen the screws on the 2x jubilee clips holding on two pipes. Unclip the wiring harness. This all takes about 1 minute and is very accessible. Repeat the process in reverse for the new sensor, the only faff was getting the plastic screw/clip out of the old sensor (which goes into the battery housing) and putting it in the new one. Not essential to do.
Once its clipped in you can attach an OBDII sensor and clear the fault and there you have it, engine back to full power, no warning of engine malfunction.
Cost was a total of £90 for the part and the sensor and it literally takes 5 mins to do. Remember Ford wanted £208 for the part alone so I'm guessing £300 for part and flitting. A saving of £210 and I now have a very useful OBDII scanner. If you have a scanner the job would cost at most £40.
Lastly, when done, I'll put in the premium diesel (the expensive stuff) and possibly a DPF cleaner into the tank, then go for a drive on a motorway for 20 mins so the DPF does a regen. When you clear the code, this should happen when on a drive. Keep revs constant over 2500 RPM for a good 15-20 mins (dont keep braking/changing gear unless for safety of course).
Recommend using the premium diesel and DPF cleaner every 3 months and making sure you do long runs in car so the DPF cleans itself.
*July 2021 update. Same fault again purchased different make sensor from Autodoc £42 delivered. Solved issue.
Best fit a quality one, I bought a ridex one from auto doc lasted 2 years , now just purchased a pierburg from auto doc nearly twice the price but I’ve fitted other sensors from pierburg with no trouble, if you have Forscan you can monitor the differential pressure to give you some idea what’s going on
Swapped my one.installed and deled the error .worked just fine after
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Do i need to reprogramme the car computer to work properly after replacement ? Thanks !
Hi. If it's a fault and showing up on your dash you will need to cancel the fault using a plug in device.
Leky 2Wheels thanks ! obd code reset isnt it ?
2019 diesel ,1.5 ,done 28k miles, yes, i only used it short trips to work only. Engine light comes on ,if i scan it ..says DPF broken .. but it drives better than ever, never been in limp mode.
History says regen done every 45 miles . That`s when the light comes on again, i clear the codes and drive on.
Is this a sensor or broken DPF
I don't have anything in that spot at all? Ive had my dpf cleaned and still same issue so im thinking its one of the sensors. But i for the life of me cant find that in my Engine bay at all.
What was the initial fault code that came up, did it say faulty sensor, as my elm light came on, then a message on dash saying service engine now, with picture of a spanner. Now has poss gone into limp mode as car struggles to go 60 on motorway and I have to change gear at 2000 revs to even make it drive around town. My garage said fault displays dpf filter, had it regenerated and a day later back to how it was.any help will be brilliant guys
This exactly what mine is doing 100% , I have had my dpf regenerated , it’s ok for a while but then goes back into limp mode and changing gear at 2000 revs.
Mine is not located on the side of my battery tray, where else would it be. TIA.
Other than the engine warning light, what other symptoms were there?
Car in Limp Mode.
@@leky2wheels248 high mate when it went into limp mode what exactly happened and how did u know it was in limp mode. Thx.
Hi, mine runs perfectly when cool but when I reach the running temperature and try to start it again, it doesn't start. I have to wait about 10 to 15 minutes for it to cool down before it starts normally again. Could this sensor be the reason?
@@leky2wheels248 did you have to reprogramme the pressure sensor or just straight swap and delete code ??
@@rafared1982 i am wondering too ....
@@rafared1982 hi. Just swap the unit and cancel the fault. Literally a 2 minute job if you have the code reader unit. Well worth buying if you do this type of stuff yourself.
What error code did this bring on?
Hi, mine has started with an engine malfunction warning, Called out RAC who immediately said DPF, told me to take car on a motorway, drive in 4th gear for around 20 miles at 2000revs. Said will clear dpf soot as common on kuga's, I done this and worked a treat for few days , warning disappeared etc but it's come up again, Any ideas or is it just that I've got to get a dpf clean?
Hi sorry for very late reply. I should start...I am no expert! The general rule on cars with DPFs is don't do lots of short journeys. This simply allows soot to build up in the DPF resulting at some point with some type of malfunction. My issue which has happened 3 times I believe is a direct result of too many short journeys but I have never had to do anything other than change the sensor as in the video. The simplest way to get a grip on the issue is to buy an OBDII engine fault reader, they are incredibly cheap (as low as £15 from Aldi) and will probably tell you what is at fault. A garage will normally charge you £40-£50 for the fault reading alone although they do have more advanced fault code readers.
If you get a fault your engine may go into LIMP MODE. That is, you car reduces power to protect the engine. You can drive like this but 1) reduced power isn't great/potentially dangerous 2) you may make the issue worse as your engine may not trigger the DPF self cleaning regen cycle. I don't think it does this in LIMP MODE but I could be wrong. I did try this by driving down the motorway in limp mode cancelling the fault (several times) but the fault came back as the pressure sensor was faulty, that being the root cause as shown on the fault code reader.
You have to identify the cause and fix it then cancel the fault to get it out of limp mode and then its advised to put in the "good" fuel, you can also add in a DPF cleaning additive but do longer journeys generally advised at 20 mins down the motorway at a constant speed to get the DPF to regenerate (regen). I'd say if it comes back, try again and again and if that fails maybe its time to get professional to try and revive or change the DPF. I assume a sensor is integral to the regen process as in something tells the car to regen the DPF.
A garage will generally check more stuff and the first time this happened to us a local garage sorted it. I think it cost around £300 but they pretty much just replaced the sensor, cancelled the fault and then revved the car for 20 mins. That fix lasted 2 years.
I don't know how possible it is to revive a blocked DPF but the trick it to try and force the car to regen thereby forcing it to self clean. To do that you have to have got the car out of limp mode by eg., changing the sensor(s) or other root cause and cancelling the fault.
In summary, if it happened to me I'd see if I can run the car to force regens, use premium fuel add some additive and HOPE it fixes it. If that failed I would leave it with a local garage and expect a bill of around £300 based on our past experience.
@Leky 2Wheels Thanks for reply. Yea I.dont do long journeys at all really, think I'm gonna have to start at least once a week on a long trip for 20min or so. Only done 1300 miles in 8 months in it
Does it show up with a low volt problem. Does it mean the DPF Pressure Sensor not working
Hi, I think to fault code may have said "low voltage" which means its not working.
I just changed mine but vehicle "rejected " it flashing up "Engine malfunction" EMs code said "manufactture control " error code. changed back to the old one and runs fine but still get EMS light but doesn't scream at me like fitting the new one did.
Hi. So i have just looked at other videos (I am no expert) and it seems different sensors may indeed need to be programmed to the car. To do that I think you perhaps need a OBDII reader which also allows you to tell the car a new sensor has fitted. However, the 3 times my car has has this done, that has not been required with no known issues.
Ebay ones don't work
I've heard similar things. My trusted independent local garage does recommend using a Ford one. Since the video I've replaced the same sensor about 3 times in 5 years...but still cheaper than Ford.
@@leky2wheels248 I've just bought a delphi sensori ( aledidgly) so will try shortly. Finger 🤞
☝️When the DPF is more than 50% dirty, the sensors also get dirty, and they let us know. If the DPF clogging is more than 50%, the car is not able to automatically clean it with heat, and the sensors alert the computer by detecting more molecular contamination in the air ducts. When you just replace the sensor, the sensor gives the wrong information to the computer, and the car goes out of speed limit, putting too much pressure on the injectors, turbo, catalytic converter, cylinder head valves, and EGR, and destroying them. . The sensor is not something that is easily damaged, the main problem is clogging more than 50% of DPF. And by replacing the sensor, you only fool yourself and the car computer for a short time, and you ruin your car.😉
So would changing the sensor and doing a regen help
@@mcnealg15 In most cases the regeneration will fail because the EGR has a problem, remember that after 140 thousand kilometers the EGR shows a serious depreciation and must be replaced. But don't forget that in the throat of the DPF inlet, after the catalytic converter, is a very important part that makes the DPF regenerate, and that part is the evaporator. The most basic and important part of the DPF cleaning system, of course, after the EGR, once all this is done you should be aware of the air mass senso, because the air gauge is the main sensor that does the EGR, if you have all these checks sensors and your car It clogs the DPF again in a short time it only means one thing either the cylinder head valves are broken or they have a carbon blockage and oil is leaking into the cylinder so by burning the oil in the catalytic converter it DPF fills up very quickly. . Remember, all of these events begin with the EGR eclipse.
I start by saying I am no expert but our experience is 6 years down the line we have a perfectly functioning (not destroyed) Ford Kuga after replacing the sensor 3 times noting in the first instance that is exactly what the garage/professional mechanics also did. I'd have expected issues quite early after replacing the sensor but we get typically 2 years of motoring with no issues with my wife not listening and doing lots of short journeys.