I'd suggest cleaning all rust off the axle and greasing every surface with a brush (both sides of both washers etc.) before re-assembling. Rust becomes an abrasive grit. Also, maybe pour a pan of boiling water over the bearing sleeve on the rim and put your bushings in the freezer for a couple hours before tapping them in. Sleeves get bigger, bearings get smaller, they might drop right in with no hammering. (I over-do everything!! :( ) Also stress that's it's much easier and takes much less time and money to grease more often, than it is to repair the things you've neglected. Cheers! Great video!
Will it hurt or cause too much wear if I actually added a third washer to take up the slack? Reassembly, there seems to be enough room for a third washer.
As I'm watching your video you keep referring to them as bearings, but they look more like common bushings. They do sell a simple kit to upgrade to true sealed bearings. Exact same procedure to replace, and you won't have to do it again. Seeing this video is about 2 years old, you're probably due to replace your bushings again.
Hi , best practice to clean spindle shaft of debris , I find brake cleaner pretty good , and light application of grease to shaft and inside bush , before assembly , a block of wood on face of bearing when refitting will prevent it becoming damaged/ deformed
The bearings usually last anywhere from 1-5 years depending on use, they are made of a soft metal and will wear out eventually. If the bearings wear down too far the axle itself can become damaged. You should grease both axles and wheel bearings every 6 months to one year depending on use of your equipment.
Mine wore out at 60 hours on a TS 242. Greased them three times before that. I think there is something wrong here with mine. Okay but I do mow a lot about 6 hours weekly.
These steps work better and will eliminate any possible damage to equipment/part/components that might otherwise be caused by improperly beating them with a hammer or metal bar: To extract: 1) Get an inner bearing puller from Amazon. They are inexpensive and can be purchased for less than $20 US, such as "CNWOOAIVE 3 Jaw Inner Bearing Puller" 2) Watch a TH-cam vid on how to use it, like this one: th-cam.com/video/7qNTmAivyFI/w-d-xo.html. 3) Evenly heat one side of the wheel hub with a propane torch for the first bearing to be extracted around the entire circumference of the hub. Localize the heat to where the bearing is. There is no need to heat the hub beyond the immediate area of the bearing. Heat the outside of the hub (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the edge of the hub). Avoid direct heating of the bearing with the flame of the torch. 4) Immediately extract the bearing with the bearing puller. It should slide out with little to no effort. Setting up the puller in advance so there is no delay after heating the hub is best. 5) Repeat the above four steps for the second bearing on the other side of the wheel. To install: 1) Thoroughly clean the inside of the hub. Make sure there is no grit, dirt or dried grass clinging inside. 2) Evenly heat up the "inside" of the hub with the propane torch (on only the side of the wheel where the first bearing is to be installed). 3) Place the new bearing into the heated hub. It should snugly fit inside the hole of the hub. 4) Using a piece of wood (like the end of a 2x4) and hammer, drive the bearing the rest of the way into the hub until it is firmly seated all the way down into the hub. A small M2/4 sledge hammer works well. If the bearing will not easily completely seat all the way into the hub, add more heat evenly around the outside perimeter of the hub. Heat only the hub. Avoid contacting the bearing with the flame. Then, drive the bearing the rest of the way with the block of wood and hammer. Do not strike the bearing directly with the hammer or with any metal object. 5) Repeat the above steps for the second bearing on the other side of the wheel. 6) Allow the hub to cool for 20 minutes (or until warm and can be touched without burning your fingers) before re-installing wheel onto mower.
Why put the metal bushings back in when you can buy real ball bearings that is the same size. All you have to do is knock out the bushings and install the bearings ( These are sealed bearings) Easy as 1 2 3.
I prefer to go OEM on certain things, i'd rather have a part designed to protect the axle and wear out vs a ball bearing fail and lock up, never play around with steering!
1. Not a bearing. It's a bushing. 2. You should always wipe off the grease zirt before greasing. That way, you don't push dirt in and contaminate the grease. Nice video otherwise.
Thank you for a video done for the people that don't have a shop of specific tools to do the job.
I'd suggest cleaning all rust off the axle and greasing every surface with a brush (both sides of both washers etc.) before re-assembling. Rust becomes an abrasive grit. Also, maybe pour a pan of boiling water over the bearing sleeve on the rim and put your bushings in the freezer for a couple hours before tapping them in. Sleeves get bigger, bearings get smaller, they might drop right in with no hammering. (I over-do everything!! :( ) Also stress that's it's much easier and takes much less time and money to grease more often, than it is to repair the things you've neglected. Cheers! Great video!
Will it hurt or cause too much wear if I actually added a third washer to take up the slack? Reassembly, there seems to be enough room for a third washer.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful! I knocked it out quicker than I expected.
Brilliant demo, saved me a lot of bother thanks for sharing this.
Very helpful video! I am about to change both tires tomorrow on the same mower.
So no washer on the inside of the rim when putting it back on? Just making sure, about to tackle this project. Thanks.
Taping it in with a piece of wood works good as well great video:).
You should never hammer directly onto a wheel bushing when installing them.
How do u take cap off of the top bearing and put back on help please
Does any bearing kit fit any Husqvarna lawn tractor
the correct part number is 9040H
Thanks that was really helpful - saved me some money😊
Where can you order the proper diameter of sealed flanged bearings for craftsman professional 247 series?
Very helpful! Thank you
Help where can I order all these items for a craftsman mowers
Thank u and God bless you!
As I'm watching your video you keep referring to them as bearings, but they look more like common bushings. They do sell a simple kit to upgrade to true sealed bearings. Exact same procedure to replace, and you won't have to do it again. Seeing this video is about 2 years old, you're probably due to replace your bushings again.
Where is the link to order the sealed bearings kit?
Thanks so much you were very detailed.
helped me so much thanks for the video!
Great video. Thanks
Awesome , Thank you so very much !
very good video
Hi , best practice to clean spindle shaft of debris , I find brake cleaner pretty good , and light application of grease to shaft and inside bush , before assembly , a block of wood on face of bearing when refitting will prevent it becoming damaged/ deformed
Good video.
I did have a few question, How long are the bearing supposed to last? also can and or do the axles wear? And how often should I grease them?
The bearings usually last anywhere from 1-5 years depending on use, they are made of a soft metal and will wear out eventually. If the bearings wear down too far the axle itself can become damaged. You should grease both axles and wheel bearings every 6 months to one year depending on use of your equipment.
Mine wore out at 60 hours on a TS 242. Greased them three times before that. I think there is something wrong here with mine. Okay but I do mow a lot about 6 hours weekly.
Thank you!
Next time try to warm up the axle cover with a heat gun. It's works great.
Thank you
Wheel is hard to remove, Due to it not being greased. Why hasn't it been Greased?
If the wheel bushings have been in the wheel hub for awhile take some silicone.oil in both sides not wheel bushings they will be easier to get out
Next time use the old bearing to drive in the new bearing 😁👍👍
Piece of wood same steel can damage the new one.
No, it is a bull pin, it is what iron workers use to hang steel for building construction.
I wish it was this easy… I had a difficult time getting the bearings out.
They make hammers that'll actually be more qualified for the job of driving the bushing/bearing out of the wheel.
Point?
Using adjustable pliers for a hammer. Pro. Turn your volume up too.
They make a real bearing kit. You are using bushings.
Works even better if you use a regular hammer!
Bushings not bearings. Big difference in how they function.
Of course you'll destroy the dust cover if you harpoon it with needle nose pliers.
These steps work better and will eliminate any possible damage to equipment/part/components that might otherwise be caused by improperly beating them with a hammer or metal bar:
To extract:
1) Get an inner bearing puller from Amazon. They are inexpensive and can be purchased for less than $20 US, such as "CNWOOAIVE 3 Jaw Inner Bearing Puller"
2) Watch a TH-cam vid on how to use it, like this one: th-cam.com/video/7qNTmAivyFI/w-d-xo.html.
3) Evenly heat one side of the wheel hub with a propane torch for the first bearing to be extracted around the entire circumference of the hub. Localize the heat to where the bearing is. There is no need to heat the hub beyond the immediate area of the bearing. Heat the outside of the hub (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the edge of the hub). Avoid direct heating of the bearing with the flame of the torch.
4) Immediately extract the bearing with the bearing puller. It should slide out with little to no effort. Setting up the puller in advance so there is no delay after heating the hub is best.
5) Repeat the above four steps for the second bearing on the other side of the wheel.
To install:
1) Thoroughly clean the inside of the hub. Make sure there is no grit, dirt or dried grass clinging inside.
2) Evenly heat up the "inside" of the hub with the propane torch (on only the side of the wheel where the first bearing is to be installed).
3) Place the new bearing into the heated hub. It should snugly fit inside the hole of the hub.
4) Using a piece of wood (like the end of a 2x4) and hammer, drive the bearing the rest of the way into the hub until it is firmly seated all the way down into the hub. A small M2/4 sledge hammer works well. If the bearing will not easily completely seat all the way into the hub, add more heat evenly around the outside perimeter of the hub. Heat only the hub. Avoid contacting the bearing with the flame. Then, drive the bearing the rest of the way with the block of wood and hammer. Do not strike the bearing directly with the hammer or with any metal object.
5) Repeat the above steps for the second bearing on the other side of the wheel.
6) Allow the hub to cool for 20 minutes (or until warm and can be touched without burning your fingers) before re-installing wheel onto mower.
Thank you for the video but that autofocus was disorientating to say the least.
Use a hammer to pound to start with, those pliers won’t last long if you keep using it for a hammer, just say’in.
Why put the metal bushings back in when you can buy real ball bearings that is the same size. All you have to do is knock out the bushings and install the bearings ( These are sealed bearings) Easy as 1 2 3.
I prefer to go OEM on certain things, i'd rather have a part designed to protect the axle and wear out vs a ball bearing fail and lock up, never play around with steering!
1. Not a bearing. It's a bushing.
2. You should always wipe off the grease zirt before greasing. That way, you don't push dirt in and contaminate the grease.
Nice video otherwise.
Those are not bearings.
bearing number?
You must not have seen the militaries primitive pete video.
Thank you!