As a land surveyor who has pulled many rebars -- I ususally have success by using an over sized locking biscrips and rotating the rebar back and forth as you pull up.
You can use the Hi Lift to pull out the rebar stakes too. Simply detach the Hi Lift handle and use it to bend each rebar into a candy cane shape. Then re-attach the handle and use the Hi-Lift’s ordinary lift function to pull the rebar straight up by the bend point. Great video!
Awesome idea. I'm definitely gonna be using it. I've had a similar idea in my head for a while but running across this video showed me it would work. Thanks for sharing.
@johnguilfoyle3073 , when stuck in an area where there isn't a good recovery point to hook to... like an open field, an area with small brush, when the straps/chains you have just can't reach a tree/rock/pole.
Only time I ever used a 'deadman' or tyre buried in the ground was in the army on my driver's course. It is a lot of hard work, say 2-3 hours of digging. As for using a hi-lift jack as a winch... did that once also. On a Suzuki. A lot of work, also. I am making a chain and rebar ground anchor to use with a rope and four snatchblocks. I can pull the vehicle uphill by myself this way but only if I have a good anchor. Great video, learned a few things watching it. Thanks Wobbly Otter.
Good Job Bill, the tools you brought should be with you anyway. The High-Lift would also pull the rebar out and storing them in the plastic pipe, good thinking !
Thanks, Dan. The tools in the video are not all we carry. I left out a lot of stuff. I hope that we can get around to doing a video on the full kit sometime in the near future. I may do another video comparing different methods of pulling posts or stakes.
I've used a Hi-Lift jack with chains to pull 4x4 fence posts that were concreted into the ground many times. Pulling posts like that would be nothing for that type of jack. In fact, you could make something that consisted of just a couple of pieces of metal and a chain / strap to go around the rebar that just relied on the lever principle and it would work for rebar. Something like this: yourdallashandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/post-popper.jpg
As you point out, when there's nothing to anchor to, you have to make your own ancor. I use something similar. I have a 4ft long 2" x 3/16" flat bar with four 3/4" evenly spaced holes and a heavy duty D-ring welded to one end. I pound four 3 ft grounding rods at an angle through the holes. The rods are smooth and easily pulled out. Don't need rebar becaused for recovery force isn't pulling them up but horizontally. Chain, rope, winch line through the D-ring and the pulling starts. My machine is less than 2,000 lbs do I don't need anything stronger.
I have a couple of suggestions that might make your recovery kit easier to use and save a little space/weight too. ***instead of rebar, use 4' long steel survey/concrete form stakes. They are smooth, (except the holes for nails in them) and larger diameter than the rebar. (construction crews use for mounting batter boards to when laying out building foundations) ***instead of a picket pounder, use an 18" piece of threaded 1" rigid gas pipe with a coupling on one end and a 1" plug threaded into that (DO NOT USE A THREADED CAP, THOSE WILL BREAK!) use the gas pipe as you would the picket pounder over the end of survey stakes. If you need more oomph to drive the stake, bust out a single jack, and the gas pipe doubles as a bigger target to hit for each swing. the 18" pipe assures each stake is driven 30" into the ground too. To store the gas pipe, slide over one of the stakes in your pvc sheath, and close up your tube. ***to attach your anchor chain to the stakes, use some oval shaped quick chain links, or climbing-rated carabineers. For 3/8" chain, I use 1/2" quick links with the threaded gate lock like you would use for drag chains on a trailer. the quick links slide onto and off of the stakes pretty easy, at least until the tops mushroom from being driven into hard ground. (then just slide them on b4 pounding in) ***to remove your stakes when done with recovery, use a pipe wrench, or 2 pairs of large vice-grips clamped 180 degrees across from each other to the top of each stake to twist the stake out as you pull. I liked the video, good idea sir! 👍
I'm going off roading in The Big Bend National Park this Christmas. Hope my 4wd 2 " lifted Geo Tracker doesn't get stuck out there. I won't go alone except on easy trails and the park rangers will be made known what trail I'll be on and my ETA of finish .
Oh, you'll surely have a wonderful time at Big Bend! The Tracker should do fine. Be sure the spare tire is in good shape, just in case. Good plan on letting the rangers know where you'll be. We haven't yet been to Big Bend National Park, though have been to Big Bend Ranch State Park and we LOVE IT! Happy trails and thanks for stopping by and we invite you to subscribe.
Am a land surveyor and frequently set 5/8" by 30" rebar to refusal or ground level. If we have to remove use a pipewrench to twist and pull out at same time. Easier on the back....
I do something similar using a modified 1-1-1 picket but as a 3-2-2 picket system. Concrete stakes are lighter and easier to use. WAY better than a pull pal
i wonder how well this idea would work if using a real truck, something that weights more like a truck and not a car. or if the truck was truly stuck and needed some force to get it out. i will have to try it in a more real world example.
It sucks pulling rebar out by hand especially in a harder soil. Use the handyman that you just used to pull the truck. Other than that great video and ideas.
Great video. Two questions: 1) Is the Hi-Lift jack better at this than a standard come-along? 2) With your stakes, wouldn't all of the tension be on the first stake and its chain link? I wouldn't think the tension would be evenly distributed. I found this video because I was looking for ways to get myself unstuck while hunting a large tract of land with little to no outside help. Thanks!
A come-along would be easier, but you can't jack up a truck with it. Using the hi-lift jack gives one tool multiple uses; carry less gear. The chain should apply force on all of the stakes pretty equally because the chain doesn't stretch.
The tension will be on the first stake til it starts to pull on the second stake. The drake 1 and 2 split the load. As tension keeps pulling on the rest of the stakes the load will then be shared by all of them. The key is the angles of the stakes. The beauty of this system is more load just needs more stakes. Definitely gonna be using this idea. Thanks for the video.
I'd upgrade your rebar to something stronger. Maybe 90 degree with a hoop at the end so you can hammer them in a "rake" pattern but chain them together at the hoop end with a shackle.
I saw that you had a smittybilt overlander rooftop tent and I had a couple questions. I’m current in my final year of college and am looking for places to stay when I end college. I was thinking about living out of my car but later realized that it’s far too small. A couple weeks ago a came across rooftop tents and was wondering if you think it would be feasible to live out of it? Thanks!
Thank you for watching our videos! If you are planning on doing some traveling after you graduate, then a rooftop tent would be a wonderful option. We have lived in a rooftop tent for as long as 23 days, but we were constantly on the road. We set up a new camp almost every night. And it was during the warm months. We loved every minute. The problem with tents is the UV rays from the sun degrade the fabric and the water-repellent coating. If you go with any kind of tent you should spray it with water repellent every three months and invest in a good patch kit. Congratulations on your upcoming graduation. We wish you all the best!
I respect my HiLift too much to put a jackmate on it, you should always attach and pull off of the end of the beam, by attaching the chain to the side of the beam you are putting two tons + of force on the side of the beam under tension this will cause the beam to bow and weaken over time, then when you are lifting with the jack you risk the beam collapsing. They designed this thing over 100 years ago, and the ONLY major change has been from a wood to steel handle... And the laws of physics definitely haven't changed.
I don't understand when this would be practical. Dragging the High-Lift jack, all that chain, metal rebar, and a post driver is a bunch of weight and storage area. It would be better to carry a winch
Hi-Lift jacks are great for pulling cedar fence posts and t-posts. In my experience, they are too heavy and ungainly to use with rebar. It's hard for chain, rope or webbing to get a grip. The jack will collapse if it doesn't have enough tension. I've had lots better luck with a piece of rope and a bar.
Hilift jacks are a lot safer if you take five minutes to read the warnings and instructions. Most people that have accidents with HiLift jacks qualify for a Darwin award.
Hilift jacks are a lot safer if you take five minutes to read the warnings and instructions. Most people that have accidents with HiLift jacks qualify for a Darwin award.
I need to move my shed back 20 feet didn’t have nothing to anchor winch two this video was a life saver
As a land surveyor who has pulled many rebars -- I ususally have success by using an over sized locking biscrips and rotating the rebar back and forth as you pull up.
You can use the Hi Lift to pull out the rebar stakes too. Simply detach the Hi Lift handle and use it to bend each rebar into a candy cane shape. Then re-attach the handle and use the Hi-Lift’s ordinary lift function to pull the rebar straight up by the bend point. Great video!
Awesome idea. I'm definitely gonna be using it. I've had a similar idea in my head for a while but running across this video showed me it would work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Cap. Glad it helps! Experimenting is good.
When would you use this?
@johnguilfoyle3073 , when stuck in an area where there isn't a good recovery point to hook to... like an open field, an area with small brush, when the straps/chains you have just can't reach a tree/rock/pole.
neat concept. You have super production quality for a dude whos a little bit older. Nice video thx
Thanks for burning 2000calories for this video
This is so cool. I'm so glad you tried this and made a video. Thank you
Thank you and you're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Wow great idea simple but affective thanks for sharing
Thank you, Sam, and you're welcome.
I've done some crazy recoveries in my time but I have never thought of rebar in chain I knew about spare tire is buried in sand I liked your idea
Thank you.
Only time I ever used a 'deadman' or tyre buried in the ground was in the army on my driver's course. It is a lot of hard work, say 2-3 hours of digging. As for using a hi-lift jack as a winch... did that once also. On a Suzuki. A lot of work, also. I am making a chain and rebar ground anchor to use with a rope and four snatchblocks. I can pull the vehicle uphill by myself this way but only if I have a good anchor. Great video, learned a few things watching it. Thanks Wobbly Otter.
Nicely done ✅ 😅👍🏻
Thank you.
Good Job Bill, the tools you brought should be with you anyway. The High-Lift would also pull the rebar out and storing them in the plastic pipe, good thinking !
Thanks, Dan. The tools in the video are not all we carry. I left out a lot of stuff. I hope that we can get around to doing a video on the full kit sometime in the near future. I may do another video comparing different methods of pulling posts or stakes.
I've used a Hi-Lift jack with chains to pull 4x4 fence posts that were concreted into the ground many times. Pulling posts like that would be nothing for that type of jack. In fact, you could make something that consisted of just a couple of pieces of metal and a chain / strap to go around the rebar that just relied on the lever principle and it would work for rebar. Something like this:
yourdallashandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/post-popper.jpg
You work really fast
😁
As you point out, when there's nothing to anchor to, you have to make your own ancor. I use something similar. I have a 4ft long 2" x 3/16" flat bar with four 3/4" evenly spaced holes and a heavy duty D-ring welded to one end. I pound four 3 ft grounding rods at an angle through the holes. The rods are smooth and easily pulled out. Don't need rebar becaused for recovery force isn't pulling them up but horizontally. Chain, rope, winch line through the D-ring and the pulling starts. My machine is less than 2,000 lbs do I don't need anything stronger.
This is awesome!
I have a couple of suggestions that might make your recovery kit easier to use and save a little space/weight too.
***instead of rebar, use 4' long steel survey/concrete form stakes. They are smooth, (except the holes for nails in them) and larger diameter than the rebar. (construction crews use for mounting batter boards to when laying out building foundations)
***instead of a picket pounder, use an 18" piece of threaded 1" rigid gas pipe with a coupling on one end and a 1" plug threaded into that (DO NOT USE A THREADED CAP, THOSE WILL BREAK!) use the gas pipe as you would the picket pounder over the end of survey stakes. If you need more oomph to drive the stake, bust out a single jack, and the gas pipe doubles as a bigger target to hit for each swing. the 18" pipe assures each stake is driven 30" into the ground too. To store the gas pipe, slide over one of the stakes in your pvc sheath, and close up your tube.
***to attach your anchor chain to the stakes, use some oval shaped quick chain links, or climbing-rated carabineers. For 3/8" chain, I use 1/2" quick links with the threaded gate lock like you would use for drag chains on a trailer. the quick links slide onto and off of the stakes pretty easy, at least until the tops mushroom from being driven into hard ground. (then just slide them on b4 pounding in)
***to remove your stakes when done with recovery, use a pipe wrench, or 2 pairs of large vice-grips clamped 180 degrees across from each other to the top of each stake to twist the stake out as you pull.
I liked the video, good idea sir! 👍
I'm going off roading in The Big Bend National Park this Christmas. Hope my 4wd 2 " lifted Geo Tracker doesn't get stuck out there. I won't go alone except on easy trails and the park rangers will be made known what trail I'll be on and my ETA of finish .
Oh, you'll surely have a wonderful time at Big Bend! The Tracker should do fine. Be sure the spare tire is in good shape, just in case. Good plan on letting the rangers know where you'll be. We haven't yet been to Big Bend National Park, though have been to Big Bend Ranch State Park and we LOVE IT! Happy trails and thanks for stopping by and we invite you to subscribe.
@@wobblyotteroutdoors ...I never been to the State Park there. I research the trails ratings while staying in Terlingua or Study Butte.
Nice but I would paint the tops of the re bar with hi vis paint. So no one gets injured.
Great video.
Лайк 👍❤️ у нас применяют уголки вместо арматуры меньшей длины .минус только в почве на каменных не работает .
Am a land surveyor and frequently set 5/8" by 30" rebar to refusal or ground level. If we have to remove use a pipewrench to twist and pull out at same time. Easier on the back....
I do something similar using a modified 1-1-1 picket but as a 3-2-2 picket system. Concrete stakes are lighter and easier to use. WAY better than a pull pal
Interesting technique. And of coarse the addition of fruity ass dogs is always a plus
You could also use the hilift to pull the pickets
High quality video right here. I was sad you didnt use the farm jack to pull the rebar out of the ground though.
Thank you.
I'd weld a hoop, or fold over the end of the pickets so I could jack em out..
That or some kind of grip bar to use the jack...
i wonder how well this idea would work if using a real truck, something that weights more like a truck and not a car. or if the truck was truly stuck and needed some force to get it out. i will have to try it in a more real world example.
Would a T-post puller work to pull out the rebar pickets (e.g. BAC Industries PG-07 T-Post Puller)?
Interesting question. If the T-post puller can manage to grip the rebar, then it could work.
your a wild man
Could you use the jack to pull the pickets out?
If he welded a hook or lift area it would work. Or if he had something that would grip them.
It sucks pulling rebar out by hand especially in a harder soil. Use the handyman that you just used to pull the truck. Other than that great video and ideas.
Great video. Two questions: 1) Is the Hi-Lift jack better at this than a standard come-along? 2) With your stakes, wouldn't all of the tension be on the first stake and its chain link? I wouldn't think the tension would be evenly distributed.
I found this video because I was looking for ways to get myself unstuck while hunting a large tract of land with little to no outside help. Thanks!
A come-along would be easier, but you can't jack up a truck with it. Using the hi-lift jack gives one tool multiple uses; carry less gear. The chain should apply force on all of the stakes pretty equally because the chain doesn't stretch.
The tension will be on the first stake til it starts to pull on the second stake. The drake 1 and 2 split the load. As tension keeps pulling on the rest of the stakes the load will then be shared by all of them. The key is the angles of the stakes. The beauty of this system is more load just needs more stakes. Definitely gonna be using this idea. Thanks for the video.
what is the song at 5:50? I love the mix of slide guitar, background organ and a modern beat. Thanks
"Wild Side" - Here's a link: bnc.lt/Scoe/1ioCl5q8Wbb
@@wobblyotteroutdoors God bless
Good job
Thank you, Kyle.
I'd upgrade your rebar to something stronger. Maybe 90 degree with a hoop at the end so you can hammer them in a "rake" pattern but chain them together at the hoop end with a shackle.
I saw that you had a smittybilt overlander rooftop tent and I had a couple questions. I’m current in my final year of college and am looking for places to stay when I end college. I was thinking about living out of my car but later realized that it’s far too small. A couple weeks ago a came across rooftop tents and was wondering if you think it would be feasible to live out of it? Thanks!
Thank you for watching our videos!
If you are planning on doing some traveling after you graduate, then a rooftop tent would be a wonderful option. We have lived in a rooftop tent for as long as 23 days, but we were constantly on the road. We set up a new camp almost every night. And it was during the warm months. We loved every minute.
The problem with tents is the UV rays from the sun degrade the fabric and the water-repellent coating. If you go with any kind of tent you should spray it with water repellent every three months and invest in a good patch kit.
Congratulations on your upcoming graduation. We wish you all the best!
Wobbly Otter Outdoors Thanks!
Why don’t you show it pulling out a truck that is stuck so it will show what it does in a real situation?
Nice video and funny to
Thank you. 😁
I respect my HiLift too much to put a jackmate on it, you should always attach and pull off of the end of the beam, by attaching the chain to the side of the beam you are putting two tons + of force on the side of the beam under tension this will cause the beam to bow and weaken over time, then when you are lifting with the jack you risk the beam collapsing. They designed this thing over 100 years ago, and the ONLY major change has been from a wood to steel handle... And the laws of physics definitely haven't changed.
Use the Jack and a pair of vise grips to pull the rods. Work smart not hard
I don't understand when this would be practical. Dragging the High-Lift jack, all that chain, metal rebar, and a post driver is a bunch of weight and storage area. It would be better to carry a winch
A ground anchor method is good when in an area that there isn't anything to attach the winch line to.
You could have used the jack to pull out the rebar
you have a hi Jack usee it
Hi-Lift jacks are great for pulling cedar fence posts and t-posts. In my experience, they are too heavy and ungainly to use with rebar. It's hard for chain, rope or webbing to get a grip. The jack will collapse if it doesn't have enough tension. I've had lots better luck with a piece of rope and a bar.
Turn the music off and explain what you're doing, In my opinion a highlift jack is an accident waiting to happen.
Hilift jacks are a lot safer if you take five minutes to read the warnings and instructions.
Most people that have accidents with HiLift jacks qualify for a Darwin award.
Hilift jacks are a lot safer if you take five minutes to read the warnings and instructions.
Most people that have accidents with HiLift jacks qualify for a Darwin award.