I found that procedure in my factory ford manual and seeing your vid was right on time for me to witness physically how its done...great job. and thanks
I have a chevy truck and thought after replacing the master cylinder which I still think went bad that my ABS was bad as I still had brake pedal fade to the floor. Tried to activate ABS on highway to no avail. Did so on my gravel driveway and lo and behold the ABS kicked in and my brake pedal was then more normal. Leads me to believe I might have pushed the air out of the ABS into the lines again.I will bleed them once more. At this point though , activating the abs on gravel worked to burp the air forward out of the unit.Nothing so far on you tube covering my POS (1998). But I thank god for people like you publishing trouble shooting.
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much. I did replace the master cylinder, which was full of sludge, so I expect it probably contributed to the failure of the HCU.
Thank you so much for doing this video!! I have a 2004 Lincoln Town car with this problem. I will now replace the master cylinder in hopes of correcting the problem.
Great video; what you describe is exactly how to perform a leaking dump valve diagnostic check on the HCU's low pressure accumulator ports. (It's the exact procedure that the 2005 Ford Workshop Manual describes in diagnosing soft or excessive pedal travel.) The only problem is, on my 2005 F-250, the Hydraulic Control Unit does not have the low pressure accumulator ports to check for a defective leaking dump valve...and there are no DTC's present to indicate there is a problem with a faulty ABS module; module circuit; CAN bus line, etc. Unless anyone else has another way of testing out the HCU, it appears I will have to use the trial and error method of replacing the HCU at a cost of about $600.00 in hopes that it resolves "the sinking fading brake pedal." I already checked around my local area salvage yards for a used one, but to no avail. And yes, I did bleed the entire brake system; 1) using a pneumatic vacuum pump to remove all the old brake fluid from each of the lines; 2) then, by the manual pump & hold method- at each wheel; 3) then using my diagnostic scanner tool, I cycled the ABS pump & HCU- 2-times; 4) then back to the manual pump and hold method. Note: steps 2, 3, & 4 were done as directed per the Ford Workshop Manual specs. BTW, I visually inspected the entire brake system for signs of leaks; for damaged components, and lines. The master-cylinder has been maintaining the same fluid level. My truck is 14-years old with only 19k miles on it- it doesn't pay to keep the truck garaged; as opposed to my 2001 Excursion with 134k miles- and is left outside year round under brutal New England weather conditions...and nary a problem; go figure!
First make sure you have no fluid leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders or brake lines, connections, etc. If no leaks then take your brake lines off at the master cylinder and screw in block off plugs then press brake pedal to see if it still sinks. If not, bad HCU. If pedal still drops then it's a bad master cylinder. Hope this helps.
@@bjodaddyo Thank-you so much for the reply...Incidentally, I now have the same problem with my 2001 Excursion (which started this afternoon). I will heed your advice and perform the procedure you described. Where can I get the block off plugs from? Thanks again for your help!
@@q44cubs I used a bi-directional auto scanner to run sub-system tests of the HCU's inlet and outlet valves...I used the scanner tool to enable each of the inlet & outlet valves, 3-consecutive cycles. Then I went back and bled off each wheel by the manual pump and hold method immediately followed by cycling the ABS pump through the bi-directional scanner, an additional 3-consecutive times. Problem solved- I did not have to replace any parts. If you need additional info/help, just ask.
TopCat577 okay I just got a MaxiCheck scanner to do the ABS bleed. So you recommend doing it 3 times, then bleeding the calipers, then using the scanner 3 more times?
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades .
I always wondered if that would work. Thank you for finding out and sharing the information. I can't afford a new unit right now and that will get me by until then. You're awesome!
@Bill SidebottomI think they were about an inch and 3/4 , and the drill bit was about an inch , then I tightened it till I felt resistance . you can use lock tight or a really long bolt with a back up nut on it to lock it tight, both ways work. some one above used a really long bolt and bottomed it out in the hole and he said that worked too, but I was working with limited bolts and experimenting with what I had on hand. If you like this fix, can we call it the ( U.S. Auto ) fix ? just kidding
I have 2013 f350 60k miles with the same symptoms. Before I replaced the HCU, I thought I would try to free up the valves. I hit the brake pedal 20ish times hard with the truck off and then with the truck on. Better but not great. I went to a remote dirt rode and got speed up and hit the brakes hard and let the ABS stop the truck. I did this about 10 times. The pedal no longer sinks. I replaced the brake fluid and bleed the system. Pedal is still good. Some thoughts on fix. Maybe there was some foreign mater in the system and the aggressive braking moved the debris. The brake fluid cap has never been off. The fluid was always fine. It is not unheard of having something in the system from the factory. I dont drive the truck much in the snow. I don't know if I have ever had the ABS engage while braking. Maybe engaging the ABS freed up a valve or passed (or moved) a piece of debris.
Thanks for this post! 2010 ford escape had soft pedal. Would still stop but was soft to the floor. Found a dirt road and stopped hard so ABS would activate. Like you said, did several times. Brakes work great now! Must have freed up the valve?
I have a Lincoln. Brake goes 1/2 way down, then stops and slowly sinks to floor. Replaced all Calipers, hoses, Master Cylinder, and even the ABS system. Result: STill acts the same. I dont see any leaks. I am at wits end on this car. I thought for sure that if I replaced both the Master Cylinder and ABS system, bled it, that I would be good to go.
Pinch off rubber lines of the system one at a time starting at rear line furthest away from reservoir and working yout way to the reservoir.. Record which one stops the fade issue if nothing pinch all lines and then if fade still present you have confirmation of internal bypass internal to master cylinder.. Pressure has to go somewhere unless pressure seizes to exist and it all starts at master cylinder.. New parts, old parts, this day and age I find old to be better then new.. KISS keep it simple stupid... Basics Basics Basics!
Helped me out tremendously. I'm going to do this test on my 06 f-150. I'm tired of my brakes not stopping well and pedal going 3/4 way to the floor. How do you check the rubber lines?
Check for obvious cracking or leaking but mainly look for swelling while someone works brake pedal if line move a little thats normal but if a section of anyone of them swells or bubbles then its gotta go...
Can this also cause a caliper to stick? I had a caliper replaced because it was sticking and always getting hot, and also got brakes bled aswel with new fluid. With the new caliper in it was still sticking and my brake pedal still going to the floor
Probably have to replace the hoses going to the calipers. If you haven’t figured the issue out yet, seeing 8 months ago. The pros say change the rubber hose when you do a caliper.
2002 Ford F-350 7.3 4x4 problem: when coming to a stop at and I step on the brakes to stop I get a kickback on the pedal and it jerks the steering wheel to the right could this be a bad ABS pump and module need help. Speed sensors are good
2000 excursion. I saw this and took advice. I am still having the sinking brake issue and have put in all new lines to back brakes and calipers all around etc. I did isolate at the master cylinder, the front brakes and got a hard brake pedal. Then isolated back brakes and get sinking pedal. I did get a used ABS unit also but same thing. I did replace master cylinder also. No leaks. Could there be something with both ABS units in the block that is causing back brakes to bypass ?? My dump and isolation valves did not move one iota when someone pressed on the brake pedal. Any thoughts ?
My guess would be faulty calipers in the front even though they're new or swelling brake line in the front. If it was the valve block units at fault - isolating/ pinching brake lines off in the front or rear would not make a difference the pedal fade would still be present...
@@thenathanrox just get some brake lines and fittings and join the front brakes from the master to there perspective lines and the same for the rears and just bleed the system
Okay I just checked this on my 2001 excursion and I have no movement at all...i have vacuum suction on booster new calipers and pads and caliper bracket bleed the DAM brakes like 5 DAM TIME and my pedal is still sinking...today took it to a gravel road and stumped on break pedal after GETTING some SPEED to try to get the abs to kick in I think it did one time and then it was just the SAME...PLEASE help Ford is going to charge me a leg to diagnose THIS
Used ones are out there you just gotta track em down.. Call dealer and get part number for your specific unit and put that number into search bars of Ebay, Amazon etc..
This failure is caused by dip shits doing brakes. They force the piston back without opening the bleeder valve. Which forces trash in the caliper back up into the ABS and Master Cylinder. You have to use either the wet grass trick or any Scanner that can cycle the pump electric motors. to get that trash out...
Couldn't I just JB WEld a couple of nails in to those vent holes? That unit is way over priced. Too much to put into a 2000 F150. They should sell rebuild kits.
Your hydraulic brakes keep working! Do you want them to be a pain in the ass and expensive to fix when they stop working? Throw a politician and a engineer in a dark room, wait for conception. Usually about every voting cycle & ohhhh look at that lil cute pile of 🍯
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades .
I wonder though if it affects the bypassing feature of the anti-lock brakes? Will the hcu function as designed now that those ports are not allowed to bleed off the pedal pressure. If so it defeats the purpose of having abs in the first place? I would imagine those valves do something and going around replacing the unit might deem the HCU worthless
@@jerryli775I have did this to 2 trucks and 1 Expedition , no one has said they have had any issues . The problem appears to be the ABS unit going bad anyways , think about this , the ABS unit has already failed, you have kind of answered your own question.
I found that procedure in my factory ford manual and seeing your vid was right on time for me to witness physically how its done...great job. and thanks
I have a chevy truck and thought after replacing the master cylinder which I still think went bad that my ABS was bad as I still had brake pedal fade to the floor.
Tried to activate ABS on highway to no avail. Did so on my gravel driveway and lo and behold the ABS kicked in and my brake pedal was then more normal. Leads me to believe I might have pushed the air out of the ABS into the lines again.I will bleed them once more. At this point though , activating the abs on gravel worked to burp the air forward out of the unit.Nothing so far on you tube covering my POS (1998). But I thank god for people like you publishing trouble shooting.
So my 97 f250 does have a bleeder valve? Going to try this if not. Thanks
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much. I did replace the master cylinder, which was full of sludge, so I expect it probably contributed to the failure of the HCU.
I have this issue now. You have no idea how long I've been looking for something on this.
Great video. Heading to shop to test since as you said, the "usual suspects" of MC, air, bad fluid, are not the culprit.
Nice!! I’ve changed the MC, power bled the brakes multiple times and I was not able to correct the issue. Hope this is the fix. Thanks again. Cheers
Thank you so much for doing this video!! I have a 2004 Lincoln Town car with this problem. I will now replace the master cylinder in hopes of correcting the problem.
I bet another Ford designer received his horns & pitch fork after that genius design plus a nice quarterly bonus
The ABS design is by Bosch and is common to many manufacturers
Great video; what you describe is exactly how to perform a leaking dump valve diagnostic check on the HCU's low pressure accumulator ports. (It's the exact procedure that the 2005 Ford Workshop Manual describes in diagnosing soft or excessive pedal travel.) The only problem is, on my 2005 F-250, the Hydraulic Control Unit does not have the low pressure accumulator ports to check for a defective leaking dump valve...and there are no DTC's present to indicate there is a problem with a faulty ABS module; module circuit; CAN bus line, etc. Unless anyone else has another way of testing out the HCU, it appears I will have to use the trial and error method of replacing the HCU at a cost of about $600.00 in hopes that it resolves "the sinking fading brake pedal." I already checked around my local area salvage yards for a used one, but to no avail. And yes, I did bleed the entire brake system; 1) using a pneumatic vacuum pump to remove all the old brake fluid from each of the lines; 2) then, by the manual pump & hold method- at each wheel; 3) then using my diagnostic scanner tool, I cycled the ABS pump & HCU- 2-times; 4) then back to the manual pump and hold method. Note: steps 2, 3, & 4 were done as directed per the Ford Workshop Manual specs. BTW, I visually inspected the entire brake system for signs of leaks; for damaged components, and lines. The master-cylinder has been maintaining the same fluid level. My truck is 14-years old with only 19k miles on it- it doesn't pay to keep the truck garaged; as opposed to my 2001 Excursion with 134k miles- and is left outside year round under brutal New England weather conditions...and nary a problem; go figure!
First make sure you have no fluid leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders or brake lines, connections, etc. If no leaks then take your brake lines off at the master cylinder and screw in block off plugs then press brake pedal to see if it still sinks. If not, bad HCU. If pedal still drops then it's a bad master cylinder. Hope this helps.
@@bjodaddyo Thank-you so much for the reply...Incidentally, I now have the same problem with my 2001 Excursion (which started this afternoon). I will heed your advice and perform the procedure you described. Where can I get the block off plugs from? Thanks again for your help!
TopCat577 did you ever figure it out? Having the same problem
@@q44cubs I used a bi-directional auto scanner to run sub-system tests of the HCU's inlet and outlet valves...I used the scanner tool to enable each of the inlet & outlet valves, 3-consecutive cycles. Then I went back and bled off each wheel by the manual pump and hold method immediately followed by cycling the ABS pump through the bi-directional scanner, an additional 3-consecutive times. Problem solved- I did not have to replace any parts. If you need additional info/help, just ask.
TopCat577 okay I just got a MaxiCheck scanner to do the ABS bleed. So you recommend doing it 3 times, then bleeding the calipers, then using the scanner 3 more times?
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and
then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in
the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and
tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades
.
usautoserviceinc this method works just did it to my original unit , now I can take the othe one back to junk yard and get some other stuff
I always wondered if that would work. Thank you for finding out and sharing the information. I can't afford a new unit right now and that will get me by until then. You're awesome!
@Bill SidebottomI think they were about an inch and 3/4 , and the drill bit was about an inch , then I tightened it till I felt resistance . you can use lock tight or a really long bolt with a back up nut on it to lock it tight, both ways work. some one above used a really long bolt and bottomed it out in the hole and he said that worked too, but I was working with limited bolts and experimenting with what I had on hand. If you like this fix, can we call it the ( U.S. Auto ) fix ? just kidding
Where you able to do this repair without disconnecting any lines in the vehicle, or did the ABS unit have to come out?
Thanks for video. I have a 09 escape. Did you have to reprogram the used pump
Would this be a test for a dodge ram 3500 as well or , specifically for ford
I have 2013 f350 60k miles with the same symptoms. Before I replaced the HCU, I thought I would try to free up the valves. I hit the brake pedal 20ish times hard with the truck off and then with the truck on. Better but not great. I went to a remote dirt rode and got speed up and hit the brakes hard and let the ABS stop the truck. I did this about 10 times. The pedal no longer sinks.
I replaced the brake fluid and bleed the system. Pedal is still good.
Some thoughts on fix.
Maybe there was some foreign mater in the system and the aggressive braking moved the debris.
The brake fluid cap has never been off. The fluid was always fine. It is not unheard of having something in the system from the factory.
I dont drive the truck much in the snow. I don't know if I have ever had the ABS engage while braking. Maybe engaging the ABS freed up a valve or passed (or moved) a piece of debris.
Thanks for this post! 2010 ford escape had soft pedal. Would still stop but was soft to the floor. Found a dirt road and stopped hard so ABS would activate. Like you said, did several times. Brakes work great now! Must have freed up the valve?
Anyone know if you do this test with the vehicle running or with the vehicle shut off
Good job bud thank you for your video
I have a Lincoln. Brake goes 1/2 way down, then stops and slowly sinks to floor. Replaced all Calipers, hoses, Master Cylinder, and even the ABS system. Result: STill acts the same. I dont see any leaks. I am at wits end on this car. I thought for sure that if I replaced both the Master Cylinder and ABS system, bled it, that I would be good to go.
ABS system meaning this entire HCU unit?
Pinch off rubber lines of the system one at a time starting at rear line furthest away from reservoir and working yout way to the reservoir.. Record which one stops the fade issue if nothing pinch all lines and then if fade still present you have confirmation of internal bypass internal to master cylinder.. Pressure has to go somewhere unless pressure seizes to exist and it all starts at master cylinder.. New parts, old parts, this day and age I find old to be better then new.. KISS keep it simple stupid... Basics Basics Basics!
Helped me out tremendously. I'm going to do this test on my 06 f-150. I'm tired of my brakes not stopping well and pedal going 3/4 way to the floor. How do you check the rubber lines?
Check for obvious cracking or leaking but mainly look for swelling while someone works brake pedal if line move a little thats normal but if a section of anyone of them swells or bubbles then its gotta go...
How long does the pin you stick inside of it have to be or does it matter
it would help to indicate which year/model/config this is applicable to :-)
Listen to first like 10 words tells you
Ok but does it have to be replaced or can the unit be repaired ? Thanks
I don't know anyone that rebuilds ..I just replace either used or new...
Can this also cause a caliper to stick? I had a caliper replaced because it was sticking and always getting hot, and also got brakes bled aswel with new fluid. With the new caliper in it was still sticking and my brake pedal still going to the floor
Probably have to replace the hoses going to the calipers. If you haven’t figured the issue out yet, seeing 8 months ago. The pros say change the rubber hose when you do a caliper.
2002 Ford F-350 7.3 4x4 problem: when coming to a stop at and I step on the brakes to stop I get a kickback on the pedal and it jerks the steering wheel to the right could this be a bad ABS pump and module need help. Speed sensors are good
Did you figure this out I have similar problem
Did you fix it?
2000 excursion. I saw this and took advice. I am still having the sinking brake issue and have put in all new lines to back brakes and calipers all around etc. I did isolate at the master cylinder, the front brakes and got a hard brake pedal. Then isolated back brakes and get sinking pedal. I did get a used ABS unit also but same thing. I did replace master cylinder also. No leaks. Could there be something with both ABS units in the block that is causing back brakes to bypass ?? My dump and isolation valves did not move one iota when someone pressed on the brake pedal. Any thoughts ?
My guess would be faulty calipers in the front even though they're new or swelling brake line in the front. If it was the valve block units at fault - isolating/ pinching brake lines off in the front or rear would not make a difference the pedal fade would still be present...
Do you have to replace the entire assembly, or can you keep the module that is programmed for the truck and swap out the block?
Thank you I'm having the same issue I'm just going to bypass the HCU as it's discontinued
How do you do that?
@@thenathanrox just get some brake lines and fittings and join the front brakes from the master to there perspective lines and the same for the rears and just bleed the system
@@danotorious12 thank you. Gonna try that if I can’t get the part at the junkyard
The HCU is responsible for metering so hope you have a metering and/or proportioning setup in mind
Does the vehicle need to be turned on for the test?
No
I did the test with the stick but it don't move out when the brakes are pushed in
Can hitting a deep pothole or other road obstruction cause the solenoid valve to get stuck and cause 'soft brake' issue?
yes
One of the ports is leaking when we apply the breaks
Thanks man
So if check valve is bad. Should you bleed the unit after
Ford Vans need ABS Brakes Bleeding Via the Ford Scan Tool. You cannot just bleed the system without using the Ford Scanner.
Okay I just checked this on my 2001 excursion and I have no movement at all...i have vacuum suction on booster new calipers and pads and caliper bracket bleed the DAM brakes like 5 DAM TIME and my pedal is still sinking...today took it to a gravel road and stumped on break pedal after GETTING some SPEED to try to get the abs to kick in I think it did one time and then it was just the SAME...PLEASE help Ford is going to charge me a leg to diagnose THIS
Replace Hydraulic block if it fails test, bleeding won't change anything.. Then bleed system as normal after replacement..
Is it possible to rebuild that hydraulic control unit?
For the life of me I can’t find that part.
Used ones are out there you just gotta track em down.. Call dealer and get part number for your specific unit and put that number into search bars of Ebay, Amazon etc..
This failure is caused by dip shits doing brakes. They force the piston back without opening the bleeder valve. Which forces trash in the caliper back up into the ABS and Master Cylinder. You have to use either the wet grass trick or any Scanner that can cycle the pump electric motors. to get that trash out...
Couldn't I just JB WEld a couple of nails in to those vent holes? That unit is way over priced. Too much to put into a 2000 F150. They should sell rebuild kits.
FORD F250 MOST RELIABLE TRUCKS ON PLANE
Your hydraulic brakes keep working!
Do you want them to be a pain in the ass and expensive to fix when they stop working?
Throw a politician and a engineer in a dark room, wait for conception. Usually about every voting cycle & ohhhh look at that lil cute pile of 🍯
How to bleed Ford RABS Brakes th-cam.com/video/PbmQSXO9XHA/w-d-xo.html using a battery charger to operate the ABS system for RABS.
Ford brought you Biden
Easy Cheap fix , I threaded both of those ports with a 1/4 20 tap and
then I cut a drill bit 1 inch long (1/4 inch drill bit) and put it in
the holes and then put a 1/4 20 bolt in the newly threaded hole and
tighten it snugly with thread lock on it. Pedal is firm and never fades
.
That's one way of saving money. And if it works it works
I wonder though if it affects the bypassing feature of the anti-lock brakes? Will the hcu function as designed now that those ports are not allowed to bleed off the pedal pressure. If so it defeats the purpose of having abs in the first place? I would imagine those valves do something and going around replacing the unit might deem the HCU worthless
@Bill Sidebottomnot sure, but in theory it should , might allow more pressure on the seal.
@@jerryli775I have did this to 2 trucks and 1 Expedition , no one has said they have had any issues . The problem appears to be the ABS unit going bad anyways , think about this , the ABS unit has already failed, you have kind of answered your own question.
@@danielclark3315 True， I unplug the ABS fuse on my fusion，it's driving fine right now，just with annoying light on dashboard.