Fix Fixing A Sinking Brake Pedal- NON ABS...Master Cylinder time!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2016
- Fix Fixing A Sinking Brake Pedal. This process is for a NON ABS SYSTEM!!...... Master Cylinder time!!
Check out My Amazon Auto Accessories Store! Lets make that Weekend job less Painful!
www.amazon.com/shop/nathanroh...
Nathan is a participant in the Amazon Influencer Program. Your support is appreciated!
🔻Nathan's DIY Tools And Parts:
1. DEWALT Tools Set (192 Piece): amzn.to/2K04XZ42
2. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce
3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
4. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A
5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU
6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR
7. Uniteco 1/2" Cordless Impact Wrench Kit, 18V Battery: amzn.to/2LxKVG
8. HD Nitrile Gloves: amzn.to/2KpGBaG
9. Fast Orange Smooth Lotion Hand Cleaner: amzn.to/2K0RCQ9
10. Mechanic Shop Towels: amzn.to/2JZuMIL
11. High 6000 Lumen LED Work Headlight: amzn.to/2ImLQ8i - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![อาจารย์ยอด : พระเตะผี [ผี]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zusDOIFasaE/mqdefault.jpg)
I learned a new trick from a guy on You Tube. Buy a 20 foot 3/16 id clear ( vinyl) tubing. Remove the dust cap on the caliper and force one end of the tubing onto it. Put the other end in the brake fluid reservoir. I used a funnel to hold the line in. Then open the bleeder screw on the caliper and slowly pump the brake pedal. When there are no more air bubbles in the clear tubing, tighten the bleeder screw and move onto the next caliper. Worked very well for me.
You don't want to put the old fluid in the caliper back into the reservoir unless it's all brand new fluid! Discard the fluid coming out of the caliper.
Instead buy a GALLON brake fluid at Walmart for 14bucks
That's the stupidest thing I've ever heard... If u run a hose from bleeder valve on brake caliper up to the master cylinder reservoir, then any air that u are bleeding out of the system through bleeder valve, is being rerouted right back to master cylinder... Any1 that reads this comment, DO NOT DO THAT!
IF U VAPOR LOCK THE MASTER CYLINDER, THEN U WILL HAVE TO EITHER USE A MANUAL BLEEDER (which is a pain in the @$$), or PULL MASTER CYLINDER ONCE AGAIN & BENCH BLEED, or possibly depending how much air u force back through it, if it blows or damages a seal, then you'll be buying a whole new mster cylinder!
I wish people would just keep to themselves if they aren't 100% certain about the methods/techniques that they share... Cause when it comes to people's vehicles, most people are trying to accomplish a diy repair to keep from or due to lack of funds to pay an ASE certified mechanic to do it... So when they follow sum1 advice & end up being no better off than they were when they began, it is really a debilitating issue to sum people...
It's really quite simple,
If u don't know what you're talking about, just don't talk/comment...
Watch, read, research, & become informed, so that u may actually offer sum valuable insight.
@@fig-by3rz You're a fricking idiot. The air bubbles float to the top, when returned to the master cylinder. I have been doing this ever sense I saw the You Tube video and it works. But if this is too simple for you, by all means, continue to do it the hard way.
@@fig-by3rz I am sorry for my comment. I do not change out my brake fluid every time I change my brakes. This method makes it easy to bleed my brakes by myself. The tubing I use is not pushed into the brake reservoir, but placed a couple of inches above it. How is the air going back into the master cylinder? I don't understand your comment. Air is not heavier than brake fluid.
Great video. The painted booster really brought the whole thing together.
LOVED IT !!!...I'LL FOLLOW YOUR LEAD SPECIALLY THE "ALL AROUND DO IT YOURSELF" EVEN THE BLEEDING IN THE FOUR POINTS !!!... TOMORROW I WILL GET ALL THE PIECES AND HOPEFULLY THIS WEEKEND GET THE JOB DONE...
I GOT THE LITTLE SISTER OF YOUR EXPEDITION, THE EXPLORER XLS...BUT IS PRACTICLY THE SAME STUFF AND PARTS AND ALL !!!....😷👍
Excellent insight exactly my issue . Brilliant diagnostic . Would trust this video . My job for today .put my mind at rest . Thankyou for sharing
Woerd!~
Thanks you guys
Excellent good job,thanks for you
I like your video. Im intimidated messing around with the brakes but have to do what needs to be done. Also I have never actually worked on a car by myself but your video was super informative.
You can do it! Often if you ask for help, someone will be glad to help you out.
TVWXMAN32 that's why I need to do it because iv already gotten help from 2 guys and now I have to fix it. I really don't know anyone else to ask.
8
Good lesson. You ended up bleeding the lines anyway; therefore, it is quite possible that by bleeding the brake lines will fix the "lose brake" pressure prior to replacing the master cylinder (less work). It worked for me.
It's easier to bench bleed the master cylinder, then fit a tube on to the calliper bleed nipple, into a clear plastic bottle with a 3rd of used brake fluid in to stop air flow.
Hey mine sinks in, but not going all the way down and touch the floor. It just feels loose after the biting point and keep on sinking like 2CM down after putting so much pressure on it. Does that sound like a master cylinder, abs or bleeding could solve it? Thanks!
ASE Brakes... Nice!
Easy to follow directions, besides the diagnosis fault, differes what may be the issues split a part the booster section out of the equation.
Great Job..I'm going to have to do this myself..
What is up with cost of taking it to a mechanic$2-300.. its not that hard to do .
good job.ive use the old board trick myself or a little slugger.good job.and fast
awesome instructions
Quite long yet very good and to the point. Just worried a little about your b fluid running all over during the bleeding. As for the heat on the nuts, ( I mean the motors'!) sounds good but isn't that a little risky in such an environment. Finally I have a Holden Barina (Australia). Maybe the basic are the same but like with many other cars it can be so different. Thanks a lot, I have watched quite a few here, I put you in front of the others :)
Hello, i have a Honda Civic 2007 Sports 2.0 F D
Last 3 weeks ago I checked the brakes by pushing the brakes with full force to see if they will work in an emergency. After 1 weeks of that passing, my brake paddle started to sink. When in slow speed, the brake paddle sinks And when on a highway on 100km/h speed, then at that time it feels like hardness in the brake paddle - then the brakes feel 60%% effective. And i have checked Master- cylinder, brake line, brake calliper, and there is no leakage signs anywhere. When i turn the car ignition off, pressed the brake paddle 3 times- the brake paddle when the full hard and I couldn’t press down any more. When i put my feet on break paddle, turned the car ignition on the break paddle sinked full. And my break pads have approximately 70% life. And the break rotors are perfect I even checked by break bleeding- no air came out of the system. I also refilled break fluid. When i start my car in the morning and the weather is a bit cold, the car breaks become 60% effective. And when i drive 10km then the car brakes become 30% effective. And then i need to press the paddle hardly then the brakes work. There is also no check light coming in the dashboard. Please advise me what is the fault in the car and what i can do. Thanks
Maybe suggest rinsing the expelled hydraulic fluid off with water, before it softens that nice paint.
I know it's an older video but I'll try anyway. How did you arrive that you didn't need to replace the brake booster? I have the same problem and I don't want to go through a process of elimination if I can help it. Thank you, this is 1/1/21 HNY
brake booster has nothing to do with a dropping, spongy pedal. A brake booster, simply put, boost the pressure that your foot is applying to the master cylinder. This makes it easier to apply enough force with your foot to stop the car. Think of it like power steering. If the power steering pump goes out, you can still steer the car. It will just be a lot more difficult. If its not working your effort would be a LOT harder to press the pedal enough to stop the car. Also if the bladder inside the brake booster is leaking it will cause the engine to run rough, idle high or even stall. You also want to check for leaks between the master cylinder and the brake booster. This will look like faded paint under the cylinder, and on the booster. It may not look like fluid, just faded paint. Sometimes the fluid will run out of the rear of the cylinder and run inside the booster. If this has happen you will need to replace the cylinder, because its leaking, AND the booster, because the brake fluid inside it will eat away at the bladder and corrode the metal booster. This will cause the booster to fail. Or your can take your chances and hope the fluid doesn't harm the inside of the booster. If there isn't any fluid inside the booster it will be ok.
If all my brake fluid drained into the booster do I need to change the booster too?
tubeyourself Yes
I have to leakes from anywhere and just replaced master do i nee a new booster
Question
When I press on the break pedal it goes all the way down and making it hard to stop can it be this issue I am having or can it be a bad break booster.
*BRAKE*
I just had new breaks put on two weeks ago and my brakes still feels like a sponge. I just had a master cylinder put on and my breaks still goes all the way down to the floor. I bought a air filter, spark plugs oil change and filter and I'm wondering if all of this was done because my boaz had to put a quart of oil in my car on Valentines Day and I had the oil changed in December 🤔
What kind of wrench you used to loosened the brake bleeding nipple.? Looks tough not like ordinary ones.
time frame?
..I like the board holding the pedal trick. Wish i had thought of that numerous times. but then again the wifey needs to work her legs out, haha...
Thank you
Use a pump from a hand wash, pump bottle, to pump out the old fluid from the old master cylinder. These domestic bottle pumps work better than pumps that I have bought.
Nice!
that's a good thought T Y
In most cases you can fix the old master cylinder with a kit. The genuine one is better quality when I remove mine it still had the machine marks in the bore.
Yea True
frame at time .56 second, whats the mess on the wheel
Brake fluid. I was bleeding before I make my final decision....Toasted Master cylinder. ....
Yea so I replaced the master cylinder and bled all lines starting with the longest line first and so on. Now it still feels like I'm loosing pressure. Pressure is better but it just goes down slower. No leaks and even new calipers. My caliper pistons arent moving much... could it be that I need more fluid in the system to push them out more?
You just need to get ALL the air out of the system. Adding more fluid will not help. As long as there is enough fluid in the reservoir obviously. The cylinder can only push so much fluid. It cant push more just because you add more fluid. Can you pump the pedal and the pedal gets firmer? If it does, and only drops a little bit then you have air somewhere. If the pedal drops all the way down while your holding your foot on it then you have a leak still. It can be a bad master cylinder. Cheaply made or rebuilt cylinders may be defective. It happens and is not that uncommon. You need to bleed them more or you may need to have the brakes power bled at a shop. Or if you have ABS check the procedure for bleeding the ABS module. Some cars have different steps or added steps to bleed the system. You have to check a service manual for your car.
@@stang1970 yea wow I posted this a yr ago. Thanks for the response. I had to bleed them more to get the air out as you stated as well as add fluid. I lost fluid during the bleed and to make sure you don't suck in more air keep it topped off. My calipers were duel pistons and one on each side were stuck. I replaced the calipers and the master cylinder. Calipers were probably fine. But the master cylinder was in fact bad. Didn't take long to fix.
@@GODsSPECTRE yeah i realized after i started typing how old your post was. I figured i would respond anyways in case someone else was having issues. since this was a how to type video. Im glad you got your car fixed!
Sir what is the problem of my car he can stop while push the break pedal?
I am having a bit of a problem with a soft peddle. '82 G body Chev. I have changed the Master Cyl and bled all calipers and at the MC. still getting bubbles, usually seen at front right caliper. Have changed that caliper with no improvement. Someone said to change the booster check valve. I can't fathom how a booster check valve would introduce air in the brake lines. Does he have a point? Also can the proportioning valve cause air to be added to the system?
No.
What did you use to heat the lines?
Propane just a little bottle not to much heat tho!!
wont that little bit of grease will expand the rubber?
Na, won't hurt anything.
I would like to ask why you didn't bleed from farthest line (passenger rear) from master cylinder first .
I did, nothing worked.
TVWXMAN32 That's odd. Normally you want to bleed from longest line to shortest. As long as you don't have air I guess is what matters.
I guess so ;)
I watch somewhere that actually you should follow the manufacturer's instruction re bleeding order. They can be different across cars.
I have a opposite issue. I have dual piston calipers. So 2 pistons per caliper. The top piston is pushing out on both sides but the bottom isnt moving on both sides. Mind that I have replaced the entire caliper on both passenger and driver sides, and bled both starting with the passenger side. This issue I was having with the old calipers and am still having with the new ones. They're not sticking. But only half working. Could it be master cylinder problem? Couldn't be a hose issue because fluid has no problem coming out the bled screw and the brake isnt sticking. So I'm at a point where I think it has to be the master cylinder.
Yep sounds like my master cylinder.
@@GODsSPECTRE Yep.
@@FixingWithPassion I should've added that it's a 2012 Subaru forester. But I guess it doesn't matter. I needed the new calipers anyway
I noticed that there booster in the video has an adjustable push rod. Did you make sure to adjust the depth on it?
I've never had to do that nor have anyone else I know. That's over rated.
@@FixingWithPassion I wonder why the brake companies suggest it then. I've always adjusted them to be as close as possible. I have heard of people complain of the brakes sticking or spongey until they adjust it.
Not sure. But if someone is doing a mod, then I can imagining opening a can of worms and dealing with the push rods.
What about bench bleeding the master cylinder
As a general rule, it should be done. But I've often gotten away for doing that. It just depends how much air in in your system.
You might want to bleed those lines a little more. An 96 inch line holds a little over 1 cubic inch.
Nice job on that repair. Thanks
OK.
Good video. One little trick I have discovered, is to just barely tap the pedal upon the initial installation in order to allow the small amount of air trapped inside the unit to escape back into the master cylinder, rather than be forced down into the lines. This has been a good remedy to keep from a full scale bleed of the lines.
Thanks for sharing!~
Thanks for your easy to follow directions with video that gives us an actual clear view of what it is you are doing and talking about. You helped me repair my Expedition on my own, Thank You! OT but does your wife know that your using your kids hospital baby blanket as a tool shop rag? :-P
haha ...single guy here...no harm done;)
BUSTED !!!! Only a Lady would catch That !
Dorman makes a very inexpensive and convenient kit for bleeding the master cylinder. Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit -Part # 14151. This is the 2 equal sized fittings per master cylinder version. There's another version with one fitting - don't get that one.
I need to know how to fix the master cylinder replacement extra cylinder with ABS brakes
Get an unused one and provide new strategy to it. Adjustments are on line.
Hi Nathan, I drive an 2015 Kia Sportage. I have an very unique problem, My Brake pedal Goes soft and goes to floor after I Turn my Steering full left. From Second pumping, Brakes are back to normal. This happens only when I turn the Steering to full left only. Technicians here are not able to find out. Any Idea
does it also do this if your parked and just turn the wheel? Will the pedal pump up with the wheels turned left or do you have to straighten the wheels before the pedal gets firm? Any dash lights on? Do you have the electronic stability control option on your car? You may be having issues with ESP or the emergency braking system
@@stang1970 Hi... The issue was resolved. What happened was the right side Lock (Punched into Stabilizer bar and there is two Locks in between the Rubber Bush in Stabilizer bar to keep it stable,) in the stabilizer bar was dislocated causing the Rubber Bush and Stabilizer Bar to slide towards right. When I rotate the steering wheel to Complete left (This also causes over steering during left turn due to sliding of Stabilizer bar Further), The Tie Rod on Right Front Wheel to hit the Brake Flexible Hose to Caliper union which causes the loss of Brakes during first pumping ( Issue will subside once the Steering is back to straight). I have welded the Lock and Placed the stabilizer bar intact. Now vehicle is fine. Thanks for your help.
@@stang1970 No warning Lights are seen on the dash. The issue is unique and not much faced by anyone. I have heard from one of the technician that It is been seen in Honda Accord (Unverified), But first seen in Kia Sportage by him.
My brake pedal makes a hissing noise when pressed, u think it's my brake booster? The noise is very loud and I have to press the pedal all the way down to completely stop the vehicle.
Bench bleeding it would have been a lot faster. If you don't get enough air out of that system may air lock. That will lock up your wheels. Because you didn't bleed it enough.
I Did not see you adjust the booster rod or plunger to make sure you had the right clearance between the Master cylinder and the booster rod. Thanks for the video.
Yea. I never really talked about that. Only because one day...Boom! Brakes to the floor. So I really never needed to adjust the rod or plunger. There was a pretty good chance they were just fine. All fingers pointed to the master cylinder or ABS pump. But I know what you mean.
great video and master's are now 75 dollars 5 years after this video was made. thanks inflation, such a friend.
Right! Just got one for a 2019 car. $225!! Insane!
I can hardly believe this video was recorded in 2016 and it's now 2022!!!
I have Breaks
But the longer.
I hold my foot on the pedal the brake pedal slowly goes to the floor
would this method work at all if my car has a abs system?
?
@@FixingWithPassion I see in the title of the video it says NO ABS so I was wondering if that means if I have an ABS will it not work for me? And assuming ABS is the anti brake system
Need help! On my 96 ek civic coupe my brakes sink to the floor. My cylinder looks all new and I already bleed all my brakes twice. No leaks.
ABS?
If you own a FORD the problem will be the ABS PUMP. keep the module replace the pump. On most cars it can be the master cylinder but on fords especially the ford focus it’s the abs pump
We're you perches the part
What if my car doesn't have brand new brake pads will this be the reason why is doing that ?
No
Your fluid will be low but you should still have good brake pressure
Good video didnt not do alot of non sense talking was all good information thankyou
you can see air?!
Bubbles....
هذا العمل كله خط وغير صحيح
u sound like a truck driver doing a pre trip inspection. lol
It could be calipers
The correct sequence is front left, then front right , rear left, then rear right. From the master you do the closest and move away to the furthest from the master, so the air is pushed out. When you go to the left rear the air will move to the closest to the master, then when you go to the front right the air goes to the left rear which, you already did ,now when you're done you still have air in the system. Tht air goes from the closest to the master away down the line. Get it. With a little tubing and a small bottle you can see the air bubbles and save the environment. Get it!!.
i was taught by my mechanics professor, to bleed the furthest away from the master cylinder which would be the passenger rear should be 1st to bleed, then the drivers rear, then passenger front and last the drivers front. This is how your suppose to bleed them, if your master cylinder is on the drivers side and you do not have ABS. with ABS brakes i believe its different.
You wanna bleed the brake fluid into a bottle with a rubber hose that way no air comes back into the system plus just dumping toxic brake fluid out the caliper like that isn’t good
Wonder if it's my booster
I know your post here is 4 months old but if it's the booster than the brake pedal would be hard to push. Not easy to push.
brembos !!
Nice!!
I still have a problem all my lines are new and no leaks but the pedal still goes to the floor
what did you replace? Does it have ABS?
Kyle Gant
I have a 95 Chevy C1500 and I bled the master and there was air. but when truck is of pedal gets hard by itself and when I start it pedal goes almost all the way to floor. No leaks on lines. Any ideas? Don’t wanna waste money
Buy brake booster
Booster
You don't have "master cylinders" to check on each wheel 1:12 . It looks like it has calipers. . Doesn't your left rear brake need a red rattle can spray job to provide even braking?😁 You should drain the master cylinder before removing the lines with a turkey baster or pump . The unit that was installed was a rebuilt aftermarket, not a new master cylinder. That isn't how you bleed a hydraulic system. If air gets into the lines at the master cylinder, weeping fluid at the calipers won't get it out.
On my last comment, it pertains to ABS for non ABS it is the opposite rear right, rear left, then left front, right front. Sorry.
Ok Great!!!
Wait...isnt it right rear, left rear, right front, left front? You wrote r.rear, l.rear, l.front, r.front. just asking....im trying to learn.
Loved your video but I'm exhausted just listening to your speed talking. Don't you get winded? Joking of course but you have a heightened ability to speak quickly. Funny thing I noticed was my old '87 Ford F-250 is just now having the same squishy brake pedal but my master cylinder looks exactly like yours so good ole' Ford again not changing things on their vehicles that don't need it. Thanks for all your work on this video~!
Nice!!
Dont return the old master cylinder. Buy a rebuild kit instead
Nice!
breaks bleading alone isnt easy i remember i had a pregnant woman help me but was her car and i was just helping her out.
Nice!
couldn't you wait she gave birth before! Amazing what people will say.
meeekstube he said that it was her car. I think it’s more of a roadworthy safety issue to have it fixed ASAP rather than wait for her to give birth, especially if it’s her daily driver. I’ve been in a vehicle that’s had spongy brakes for a while & the owner kept procrastinating fixing it. The driver’s eyes were like a deer in headlights when he applied brakes at a yellow turning red light & the truck wouldn’t stop. Luckily, it was 4am & no cars in front of him. He basically ran the red, just in time before the crossing car who had the green, started to cross the intersection. He fixed it that day.
That’s why you don’t have any pedal it would be that I don’t have any leaks and my pedal goes to the floor on a Monte Carlo
But how do you know it's not just air in the lines? I had no brake problems until the corroded back brake lines fell apart and I replaced them. I now have no leaks and I've (tried to) bleed the brakes but the pedal is going to the floor. Could it not just be a stubborn air bubble somewhere rather than a bad master cylinder??
No. If you are bleeding them and there sinking to the floor, you now
have a master, cylinder issue or ABS has took a dump. I see this a lot.
Get a used master cylinder and see if this fixes the issue. There cheaper and that's a good place too start.
First- thank you very much for the reply. So, even though I had no problem with the master cylinder before I replaced the brake lines, you think it's likely- going by the symptoms I described- it went bad while it was sitting without any fluid in it? (probably more than a month)
Yea could be.
Hey godfrey14, Sounds to me that either you have air in your master cylinder or air in the abs, or a bad abs or bad master cylinder? ANOTHER FIX IS TO EITHER Bench bleed the master cylinder manually or by running tubing from the bleeders to the master cylinder, Careful not to let the master cylinder run dry, Bleed the brakes back into the master cylinder until the lines are full of brake fluid & top off the master cylinder many times as needed, & keep pumping until you see no air! then move to another wheel/ bleeder! (1 tip, use bearing grease around the bleeder so the bleeder doesn't suck in any air) Now, IF YOUR VEHICLE HAS ABS, YOU HAVE TO BLEED ACCORDING TO THE ABS SYSTEM AS FAR AS WHICH WHEEL TO DO 1ST & LAST & IN WHICH ORDER! I have always started at the furthest wheel when bleeding brakes but, when bleeding a master cylinder, I think you can start with the closest wheel then move outwards? I WILL DOUBLE UP, STARTING WITH THE CLOSEST WHEEL & WORK OUTWARD TO BLEED MY MASTER CYLINDER & THEN BLEED THE BRAKE LINES AGAIN, STARTING FROM THE FURTHEST WHEEL INWARD! OR SIMPLY CONNECT CLEAR TUBING TO EACH BLEEDER, USE SMALL HOSE CLAPS TO SECURE TUBING TO BLEEDER, USE GREESE ON BLEEDER THREADS, RUN ALL 4 TUBES TO MASTER CYLINDER, WHILE BLEEDING ALL 4 WHEELS INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER, MAINTAIN A FULL MASTER CYLINDER & TUBES FULL OF BRAKE FLUID & PUMP UNTIL THERE ARE NO BUBLES AT ALL. SHUT ALL THE BLEEDERS 1ST, BEFORE REMOVING ANY TUBES FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER!! I AM INSTALLING ALL NEW BRAKE LINES, Due to a line rupture & rust. I am in the same boat! I am waiting on parts to arrive! Good luck!!!
Well, stupid auto zone gave me a master cylinder that didn't even fit so I don't know yet. I tried bench bleeding the old one just in case, but it still didn't work. So i'm waiting for one to arrive from advance auto. since I'm without a car, I have to ride my bike to these places or wait for delivery. What I just don't understand is how a master cylinder that was working fine would go bad just from sitting empty for a while (after my brake line burst)
?
Everyone in the world gets the air out of the master cylinder first thing. They call it bench bleeding.
How do you know? Wow you have a lot of friends then ;)
You could have drained the Master Cylinder first!
why do people keep using open end wrenches the wrong way! ?? the smaller side is to be on the side turning toward..!! pulling hard will open the jaws . and will many times round a nut---especially brass!!
thats how goonsqid does it!!
uhhhhhh.... wtf did i just watch? "sometimes the system will bleed itself" --- uh no. it will NEVER bleed itself.. that is why there are nipples on each caliper..
ALSO bench bleed your master cylinder. I would not be surprised if this car ended up in a ditch or rear ending someone....
SUV runs prefect to this day/perfect brakes. People who never have worked on a car in there life should not comment. Nuff said.
Nathan Rohrbough I'm an ASE Master Certified Mechanic.. I dont intend to insult your intelligence or experience. But I have never heard of a system bleeding itself.
Seth, show the guys at the shop so they can have a good laugh. He wont listen to people who know more than him because he is perfect and everything he does is perfect. Great comment hey Nathan?
@@sethperkins1440 He left the brake lines on the MC finger tight while pumping is my guess.
Well I’m no expert either but the way he bled the brakes is completely wrong. He just open them to the surrounding air and let all the brake fluid spill onto the ground witch is toxic to the environment plus he introduced more air into his system doing it like that. Should have had a bottle filled with some brake fluid and a rubber hose submerged in the fluid so no air could get back in. Plus I agree the system dosnt just bleed itself that mean you have a leak if it did that. That’s why there is bleeder screws.
Nasty looking fluid. Should have changed it all.
This does not fix the problem
always bench bleed master cylinder folks.then you know it wil take few times to get that much air out of lines.i could tell his pedal was fallin more than it should at end.bench bleed please.its worth the time
After a while the pedal cam up and was perfect! Just took a few minuets.