i've a welding teacher that insisted our keyhole be big enough to practically stick the rod through. no pressure on the plate at all... super hard to do, and then youtube showed me the right way to do it! always glad to see comprehensive 6010 open root videos.
for tests most places want an uphill root, welds ran uphill are structurally stronger, when you’re in the field after the test it’s different, downhill root is faster
I've welded 25 years as a pipefitter and on the weld tests we take we have to run the root the hot pass and cap all uphill. I'm guessing this guy is a pipeliner because he's running downhill. He explained this video very well. Looks like a pretty decent welder.
Excellent advice for novices! Bless you! Great instructions. Most welders online hide their amps, travel speed, etc. Btw, most welding instructors teach welders to keep the rod "at 90° to the center!"
Wow! That is root pass. All I know using 6010/6011 for root pass is to travel through whip and pause to fill up the key hall but you did it very easy to look at but I pretty sure it needs mastery to perfect it. Thank yoi so much! From Philippines
Awesome job explaining. Im on open v groove in school and they teach us the “step” method where you burn forward and step back into the puddle. Why don’t you have to do this on pipe?
When doing downhill pipe you’ve got a very tight gap with ussually little to no land. So if the bevel can hold the puddle with out keyholing very big you don’t have to wip in the root. On 6010 uphill roots if you get your heat and landing on your bevel perfect you can drag the rod uphill and get the same results. If you’ve got a bigger root opening or small amount of land on a fit up you can turn your amps down and wip and pause your root to get the same result. Its all puddle malipulation/ control. Watch the puddle and keyhole and you’ll get it!
Great work guy good welding I can see u pay attention to what the weld is doing u take pride in the work u you u put your heart n soul on it .what part of Texas u r located
@@TheWeldLab thats good Im glad I will subscribe to your Chanel I will message you later on I have a welding company will be needing good welders like you .great work again .
When you mean having it straight you mean like… 90 degrees? Like if ur on top dont have it straight up, if ur on the left dont have it straight left and etc, thats correct?
push= hotter Drag=cooler 90degrees or straight will give you the most penetration and consistency if you can handle it...fit up plays a big role in which angle to use
@@TheWeldLab yep 5p+ but I was always told that Lincoln u can apply alot of pressure but miller u cannot. I haven't welded pipe in 8 years and its giving me alot more hell to relearn downhill than I thought it would
Not sure which Miller u r using but I have used both on the Miller PipePro make sure ur heat is up like a Lincoln but also turn ur dig/arc force up more n it will help penatrate breaking walls u should see ur small key hole, hope that helps
@@1pipepro actually im using a hobart champion 225 basically a miller but no arc force or anything fancy. It welds just like a miller. Tomorrow ill just get real aggressive with it and run my root around 85 to 90 amps and really push on the rod. I bought the machine because it was cheap and same thing as my buddys trailblazer. Not looking to pipeline but chase rigs like he does so maybe I can relearn pipe again. Its been 8 years so its startin all over for me
i’m starting welding in highschool and my teacher has told me to whip n pause but i’ve seen multiple online videos of welders dragging. does anyone know some pros and cons to either side
If your running beads drag it unless the key hole opens up then you wanna step in when you downhill . Only time I really whip the bead in is if my doing uphill
Bro I need some help with my root, my instructor tells me to penetrate the keyhole but everytime I do that and drag start dragging it.. my rod gets stuck
Run a nickel land and a dime gap. Run your rod 90deg. To pipe . Run a 5/32. 5p pluss rod. Run enought heat to move forward at a ready pace, yes you will have a key hole just keep going if the key hole is not filling in turn down in incriminates of 5 on the box. I learned this a long time ago . I will tell you that for a reference two welders on a 30 inch pipeline tie in crew can put a bead in the pipe in 20 min. Or less. So keep practicing. Good luck.
332 gap 1/8 rod , strike it like you would a match on heat effected zone . If you get stuck pull the stinger off the rod and grab another cause you probably knocked off the flux on the end of the rod and that's why you keep sticking .
My instructor forces me to use whip and pause motion when doing the root pass. I’m I wrong for just moving forward consistently like shown in this video
I was always taught to whip 6010 didnt know you could drag it they always say that 6010 has alot of burn through so whip it, does the drag for 6010 also work for plate etc
If you have a remote dragging the rod is easier and faster. Most of the time you don’t, so you learn how to weld with one heat all the way out. Even with 6010bead and Lohi out I’ll keep the same amperage. Uphill you’ll want to whip that bead in to help avoid trapped slag or internal undercut on the root. Also depends on weld procedure your working under. Api1104 will let all kinds of trash welds where b31 will not. All depends on the job. I personally prefer to whip 5p in on the root to insure a good reinforcement on the inside with no undercut.
@@TheWeldLab i run it around 75 and 85 but I watch one of your videos where u were helping one ofur friends , and I was using the same rods 😆 ill try using some good ones later! unas linconl or something
@@TheWeldLab i was using the blue can I think the name is bhroner or brohner something like that I sae ur compa using them and your were saying they were not good so i guess it was that
The thing with me is I’ll run it good dig it in but then it gets stuck and I try to strike again it’s a pain and when I’m going down to 6 o’clock it’s a pain
i've a welding teacher that insisted our keyhole be big enough to practically stick the rod through. no pressure on the plate at all... super hard to do, and then youtube showed me the right way to do it! always glad to see comprehensive 6010 open root videos.
Same!
for tests most places want an uphill root, welds ran uphill are structurally stronger, when you’re in the field after the test it’s different, downhill root is faster
I've welded 25 years as a pipefitter and on the weld tests we take we have to run the root the hot pass and cap all uphill. I'm guessing this guy is a pipeliner because he's running downhill. He explained this video very well. Looks like a pretty decent welder.
I'm a welder myself. And I have to say your videos are very informative and precise. Keep up the good work!
U did a great job on this video like seeing fellow welders help others in the craft 😀
I like the way you make arc welding seem like a breeze. Good stuff
Thanks !
Gr8 tutorial man. I was surprised to see no whip and pause. Only when you needed to fill an occasional keyhole. Thanks for the lesson bud
im glad you enjoyed it ill have more tutorials on the way with way better quality and audio
If you have a good gap you can just drag make sure you're breaking down both walls. Only need to step if you keyhole
Idol very well said. More power to all welder around the globe. Am Filipino welder
Excellent advice for novices! Bless you! Great instructions. Most welders online hide their amps, travel speed, etc. Btw, most welding instructors teach welders to keep the rod "at 90° to the center!"
Thanks for the feedback 🙏🏼
Easy simple and hit all the details right on the money thanks man awesome video
good job Rigo, there's a bright future ahead of you doing what you're doing. stay safe y hechale pa adelante
Great, great video! Getting an education from every one of your videos!
I've watched you for awhile, now like your detail structure in direction! as I always say keep'em guessin!!
Wow! That is root pass. All I know using 6010/6011 for root pass is to travel through whip and pause to fill up the key hall but you did it very easy to look at but I pretty sure it needs mastery to perfect it. Thank yoi so much! From Philippines
As a welder i enjoyed your video a alott
Great video. Confirmed some of what I was doing, but also brought to my attention some things I wasn't cognizant of. Cheers!
You got great explanation skills! Masta Masta your videos have helped me prepare for my test exponentially
I love this video so much. You did it very well
Already!!!! Back it it again!!!!
Saludos des de Houston, Texas
#Covid_Season_2021
Excellent tutorial buddy
Best video on 6010 pipe
Your video was so helpful thank you so much 🙏🏾👍
Awesome job explaining. Im on open v groove in school and they teach us the “step” method where you burn forward and step back into the puddle. Why don’t you have to do this on pipe?
When doing downhill pipe you’ve got a very tight gap with ussually little to no land. So if the bevel can hold the puddle with out keyholing very big you don’t have to wip in the root. On 6010 uphill roots if you get your heat and landing on your bevel perfect you can drag the rod uphill and get the same results. If you’ve got a bigger root opening or small amount of land on a fit up you can turn your amps down and wip and pause your root to get the same result. Its all puddle malipulation/ control. Watch the puddle and keyhole and you’ll get it!
Thanks bro! Very informative.
Outstanding job sir.
Nice to know how to do it right! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the video man 😎
On your last weld the 2g pipe. What do you do to have the weld come out all the way across? Thanks for the tips man and awesome videos.
Thanks so much 🙏. You have help me step up my game!!
Great video and information
Glad it was helpful!
Very detailed video 👍🏽
Man luv that sizzle 6010 makes when u getting it.
Great content. Great information here. New subscriber.
I'm a painter but good shit. I like your videos!
Which welder machine you recommend to weld 6010 ??
Your Almost at 1M views 💯💯👊🏼👊🏼
Yeah man that’s crazy! Did not expect that at all
Great work guy good welding I can see u pay attention to what the weld is doing u take pride in the work u you u put your heart n soul on it .what part of Texas u r located
H-town!!
@@TheWeldLab thats good Im glad I will subscribe to your Chanel I will message you later on I have a welding company will be needing good welders like you .great work again .
Cool hit me up!
Good information. Cheers.
Do you put any land on the bevel ? If so how much ?
I have an sa 200 red face but mine doesn’t have a remote what settings should I run bro
When you mean having it straight you mean like… 90 degrees? Like if ur on top dont have it straight up, if ur on the left dont have it straight left and etc, thats correct?
Nice video!
Bro do you have a video on how to make a 1beed cap
I have a 6010/7018 5g on here
Bro. Thank you! I will bring this to TWS
Glad I can help brother !
push= hotter Drag=cooler 90degrees or straight will give you the most penetration and consistency if you can handle it...fit up plays a big role in which angle to use
which grade will be better for SS pipe?
Can you make a 7018 1/8 vertical up. I’m trynna learn and it’s tricky. I do better on the 3/32 . But everyone else is using the 1/8
A little advice from a seasoned welder of 25 years . Big rod big mess small rod small mess when you're a beginner .
God bless my brother
Nice explanation
thanks man!
Do you actually rest the rod on the bevel? I try that with my miller and it sticks
Yes I do and a lil pressure with the heat it will keyhole...are you using the correct rods ?
@@TheWeldLab yep 5p+ but I was always told that Lincoln u can apply alot of pressure but miller u cannot. I haven't welded pipe in 8 years and its giving me alot more hell to relearn downhill than I thought it would
Not sure which Miller u r using but I have used both on the Miller PipePro make sure ur heat is up like a Lincoln but also turn ur dig/arc force up more n it will help penatrate breaking walls u should see ur small key hole, hope that helps
@@1pipepro actually im using a hobart champion 225 basically a miller but no arc force or anything fancy. It welds just like a miller. Tomorrow ill just get real aggressive with it and run my root around 85 to 90 amps and really push on the rod. I bought the machine because it was cheap and same thing as my buddys trailblazer. Not looking to pipeline but chase rigs like he does so maybe I can relearn pipe again. Its been 8 years so its startin all over for me
Awesome weld
Like the video
Thanks for the advise very helpful
appreciate the support!
i’m starting welding in highschool and my teacher has told me to whip n pause but i’ve seen multiple online videos of welders dragging. does anyone know some pros and cons to either side
Sehr gut.Sehr gut.
What’s the pros/cons of running a stringer vs a whip with the 6010? Is it just personal preference?
If your running beads drag it unless the key hole opens up then you wanna step in when you downhill . Only time I really whip the bead in is if my doing uphill
Very good
How did you like that MG remote
One of the best investments I have ever made
Hell yea bro thanks I’m gonna order me one now
Yeah bro you’ll love it
how about a uphill video also?
Never seen no one run 6010 down hill on pipe!
@@leeebtire5107 you haven't ever pipeline welded then
@@drewjackson1127 your right I stick to 30/100
Bro I need some help with my root, my instructor tells me to penetrate the keyhole but everytime I do that and drag start dragging it.. my rod gets stuck
Run a nickel land and a dime gap. Run your rod 90deg. To pipe . Run a 5/32. 5p pluss rod. Run enought heat to move forward at a ready pace, yes you will have a key hole just keep going if the key hole is not filling in turn down in incriminates of 5 on the box. I learned this a long time ago . I will tell you that for a reference two welders on a 30 inch pipeline tie in crew can put a bead in the pipe in 20 min. Or less. So keep practicing. Good luck.
332 gap 1/8 rod , strike it like you would a match on heat effected zone . If you get stuck pull the stinger off the rod and grab another cause you probably knocked off the flux on the end of the rod and that's why you keep sticking .
My instructor forces me to use whip and pause motion when doing the root pass. I’m I wrong for just moving forward consistently like shown in this video
Nice job..
Thanks!
Great video! Thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
Spider pipe clamps would help your fit-up better and faster with various sizes for pipe, best investment, time saver as well!
Thank you!
good
video
Excellent videothank you .
🙏🏼 thanks
Thx for the video.
Thanks. You make it look easy.
Can you show the inside of the pipe after you run your root ?
Can you please do down hand capping. Thank you .🙏
Good job,hop it is useful
Good stuff
I was always taught to whip 6010 didnt know you could drag it they always say that 6010 has alot of burn through so whip it, does the drag for 6010 also work for plate etc
yes but you need to have the rite gap and landing
@@TheWeldLab cool thank you, I will try it out nice vids just subscribed the other day keep it up
Thanks man
If you have a remote dragging the rod is easier and faster. Most of the time you don’t, so you learn how to weld with one heat all the way out. Even with 6010bead and Lohi out I’ll keep the same amperage. Uphill you’ll want to whip that bead in to help avoid trapped slag or internal undercut on the root. Also depends on weld procedure your working under. Api1104 will let all kinds of trash welds where b31 will not. All depends on the job. I personally prefer to whip 5p in on the root to insure a good reinforcement on the inside with no undercut.
I have a really hard time keeping the rod on !
How hot are you running and what machine are you using?
@@TheWeldLab i run it around 75 and 85 but I watch one of your videos where u were helping one ofur friends , and I was using the same rods 😆 ill try using some good ones later! unas linconl or something
@@horaciosalinas8145 puro Lincoln bro es la mejor ...youll feel and see the difference
@@TheWeldLab i was using the blue can I think the name is bhroner or brohner something like that I sae ur compa using them and your were saying they were not good so i guess it was that
How much do you gap it?
about 1/16 for any pipe 6" and smaller and 3/32 for 8"and above is my preference
Well Done!!!!
Can you do an up hill one please
Good info
thannks
Nice support this channel
Excelente video solo falta la opción de subtítulos!
ya esta las voy a empezar a poner
Con la imagen lo entiendo
arc welding i like bro thanks for sharing nice❤
Why are my downhill roots flat?
My weld instructor told me that there is no way to weld open root without whipping it, i tried dragging it like you did but i kept blowing through
Are you going downhill?
And how big is your gap ? With a 1/16 gap you should be able to drag it
@@TheWeldLab my weld instructor told me to never go downhill with 6010, but you make it look just fine
always been told to see a key hole to know that both joints have fusied?
30 - 40 amps right
How can I contact you?
No gloves at 4:23 gangster af
Where your welding gloves at
Lloyds inspector hear in uk would march us off site if we welded like that in the uk
like the video tho
The thing with me is I’ll run it good dig it in but then it gets stuck and I try to strike again it’s a pain and when I’m going down to 6 o’clock it’s a pain
I work in a warehouse but I'm.still here pa
thanks for watching!
Thought it always had to be flat, vertical, and overhead for any test? I just have never seen it before? Was just curious?
God bless you . Your video explained a lot of beginners mistakes. Bro you need to open your own school. You know your stuff.
Keep a clean lens also to see what you're doing❗️❗️❗️
what is 6010?
💯💯💯
Mantap
Интересная конструкция держака
Also grind your pipe inside and outside about one inch
That cap is slicker than owl shit lol