Some people with sprinkler systems have a problem with aerating their lawns because occasionally the tines puncture water lines or destroy sprinkler heads. I know because I’ve done it. But aeration is very good for your lawn because it reduces compaction and gives the roots room to grow. Good video, great information.
I redid one pasture last year and the amount of grass yield per sq ft is huge compared to the old pastures that the animals have packed down over the past few years. Looking to get one of these aerators but we have a lot of rocks and roots up here so not sure if a plug type will work or if I would be limited to solid spikes. Tilling worked great but there is obviously a delay before there is enough growth to be able to cycle your animals back on it, the aerator wont do that much damage. About the rates of snow removal.. blame the insurance companies. Out here the insurance prices have cut the little guy out of the market completely.
You made a comment about not having a use for "spike" aerators. In Delaware our summers are notorious for being hor and very dry. Then when it finally rains the water just runs off. When I had my lawncare company I would sell late summer spike aeration to break up the hard pack. It may not loosen the soil, but, it just breaks up the top layer so that the rain can penetrait faster and better. I had a lot of success both financially and appearance wise.
If you are Aerating your Lawn you should also Topdress immediately after giving you the best soil growing conditions, I would definitely recommend performing Soil Testing FIRST in the Spring before starting any Lawn Care. Every Agricultural College in your state will provide Soil Tests Kits and evaluate what will be the best recommendations to take in order to ensure the best quality results for your Lawn for the season. ie. Fertilizer, Soil Treatments, Watering, Slit Seeding etc and it will be the best $30.00 spent to help you grow the finest Lawn in your Area you live.
What are your thoughts on the Aera-vator from 1 st. Products - vibrating the solid tines down into the topsoil as it roles along? And thanks for another great video, big fan 😊🌱
Hello, I am new to the tractor world, just bought my 1023e and waiting for delivery. I was looking pretty hard at the x500 and x700 series but ended up going with a subcompact. Could you go over the differences in hitches, and how to connect smaller implements to a 3 point? Example- can I connect the lawn sweeper intended for the x500 series to my 3 point hitch on my 1023? Thanks.
No, it’s a limitation of the leaning ROPS. You can mount above the ROPS and shift it further back or trim it to fit inside the ROPS. I still find this position to work best for me.
I keep thinking that this would be an ideal attachment or a front loader. With its ability to exert downward pressure as well as the visibility, would there be any drawback to putting these on the front?
The loader movement is more of a sweeping action on turns and would probably do a lot of tearing. A pull behind may even be better than a 3 point...but not when you have to cross a sidewalk or driveway!
Does the Sweep All need a constant supply of power to keep the wheels down/up? If it only needs power for raising/lowering, I'm thinking maybe a well secured deep cycle battery in the weight tray could help you avoid the need to run wires to the tow vehicle battery.
I use a float charger for my tractor and I installed a quick connect to the battery. This allows me to also plug in other 12v equipment easily. You can run a second connector to the back of the tractor, just secure it well with cable ties! For what it's worth.
@@dalcassian56 Definitely a good long term solution but I was thinking more along the lines of two birds, one stone. If I'm gonna need to chuck a bunch of weight into it anyway...
@@fondy44I would think bouncing a battery around on a hard surface would not be so healthy for the battery. The tractor has tires to absorb part of that terrain effect. Hit a rock or rocks with a battery on the aerator, it takes the full brunt. Not to say it might not survive that for a bit, I would expect diminished battery life/survival.
The Sweep-All aerator only requires power when lifting or lowering the wheels. Hypothetically, having a battery in the weight tray would work. But, like previously stated, the battery and connections would absorb all the vibrations from the aerator
I'd like to see a side by side by side comparison of a strip aerated, nothing (control), and plugged. I get in principle, why/how they should work, but would appreciate real world, tangible results. I ask because my parents have been on the same property since 1972 and have never done anything beyond routine mowing. No sprays, no aeration, etc and their grass looks just as nice and in some cases better than their neighbors who have bought lots around them over the years and spend what I consider an excessive amount of time and money on their lawns. I am probably outside of the majority on this channel because I don't give two flips about my yard. It belongs to the bears, deer, fox, etc just as much as me and they appreciate it being long and I have enough acreage to be exempt from foliage height regulations. I haven't mowed some of my property since 2016 and only mow the area around my house 3-4 times a year, but it is greener than my neighbor's who mows every 10-14 days. The same is true for my office that only gets mowed maybe 6 times a year. I want to know that the time and money has an obvious return.
This is a great question. One of the best things to do for most grass species in a lawn is to keep cut height high, I think. Would be a good additional test. Depending on a lot of other factors, I’ve found certain places in my yard accumulate grass clippings, so bagging, dethatching or just raking those spots is helpful. Ultimately I need to level those little areas.
@@phild9813cool season grasses like fescue are normally cut higher where the warm season grasses like Bermuda are cut lower. One really needs to know what type of grass they have, get the soil tested before doing anything other than mowing. Right now soil testing is free in NC until November!
HA! My "lawn" is 50% grass and 50% moss (spagnum in the wet spots and other elsewhere), clover, dandylyons, broadleaf weeds and anything but grass. I don't think we have a blade of grass in the side-yard under a stand of shagbark hickories (window screen destroyers when you hit the nuts with a mower in the fall if the chute is left up - THE ADMIRAL mows there so I blame her). I wouldn't spend a cent to make it grow faster. But then we're nestled in the trees and don't have much lawn except in the front yard. Gardens, pastures and foodplots feed us. Woodlots heat us. Lawns annoy us. ;-)
I made a good living out of “fixing” mistakes homeowners made trying to save a few dollars: streaked lawns, roundup instead of dicot weed control. LOL!
Some people with sprinkler systems have a problem with aerating their lawns because occasionally the tines puncture water lines or destroy sprinkler heads. I know because I’ve done it. But aeration is very good for your lawn because it reduces compaction and gives the roots room to grow. Good video, great information.
Best part to a spike aerator is they are great for over seeding in the fall. Spread seed then aerate. It helps to create seed to soil contact.
I redid one pasture last year and the amount of grass yield per sq ft is huge compared to the old pastures that the animals have packed down over the past few years. Looking to get one of these aerators but we have a lot of rocks and roots up here so not sure if a plug type will work or if I would be limited to solid spikes.
Tilling worked great but there is obviously a delay before there is enough growth to be able to cycle your animals back on it, the aerator wont do that much damage.
About the rates of snow removal.. blame the insurance companies. Out here the insurance prices have cut the little guy out of the market completely.
You made a comment about not having a use for "spike" aerators. In Delaware our summers are notorious for being hor and very dry. Then when it finally rains the water just runs off. When I had my lawncare company I would sell late summer spike aeration to break up the hard pack. It may not loosen the soil, but, it just breaks up the top layer so that the rain can penetrait faster and better. I had a lot of success both financially and appearance wise.
This channel cost me more money then gun shops but I like it
If you are Aerating your Lawn you should also Topdress immediately after giving you the best soil growing conditions, I would definitely recommend performing Soil Testing FIRST in the Spring before starting any Lawn Care. Every Agricultural College in your state will provide Soil Tests Kits and evaluate what will be the best recommendations to take in order to ensure the best quality results for your Lawn for the season. ie. Fertilizer, Soil Treatments, Watering, Slit Seeding etc and it will be the best $30.00 spent to help you grow the finest Lawn in your Area you live.
Great video on the 'CPG60 Plugger' - are replacement blades/spoons available if needed?
Good info, and especially from a business/financial aspect.
I use both core and spike for different applications.
What do you have for top dressers? Like for top dressing loam?
Wow, I didn't even think there was so much to know about lawn plugs. Thanks
What are your thoughts on the Aera-vator from 1 st. Products - vibrating the solid tines down into the topsoil as it roles along?
And thanks for another great video, big fan 😊🌱
Hello, I am new to the tractor world, just bought my 1023e and waiting for delivery. I was looking pretty hard at the x500 and x700 series but ended up going with a subcompact.
Could you go over the differences in hitches, and how to connect smaller implements to a 3 point?
Example- can I connect the lawn sweeper intended for the x500 series to my 3 point hitch on my 1023?
Thanks.
Off topic. The 1025r with the angled ROP. Your sun shade is not actually over top of the seat. Its kinda infront of you. Redesign in the works?
No, it’s a limitation of the leaning ROPS. You can mount above the ROPS and shift it further back or trim it to fit inside the ROPS. I still find this position to work best for me.
I keep thinking that this would be an ideal attachment or a front loader. With its ability to exert downward pressure as well as the visibility, would there be any drawback to putting these on the front?
With the amount of down pressure that would be required to make the aerator work, you wouldn't have much if any steering control.
The loader movement is more of a sweeping action on turns and would probably do a lot of tearing. A pull behind may even be better than a 3 point...but not when you have to cross a sidewalk or driveway!
Does the Sweep All need a constant supply of power to keep the wheels down/up? If it only needs power for raising/lowering, I'm thinking maybe a well secured deep cycle battery in the weight tray could help you avoid the need to run wires to the tow vehicle battery.
I use a float charger for my tractor and I installed a quick connect to the battery. This allows me to also plug in other 12v equipment easily. You can run a second connector to the back of the tractor, just secure it well with cable ties!
For what it's worth.
@@dalcassian56 Definitely a good long term solution but I was thinking more along the lines of two birds, one stone. If I'm gonna need to chuck a bunch of weight into it anyway...
@@fondy44I would think bouncing a battery around on a hard surface would not be so healthy for the battery. The tractor has tires to absorb part of that terrain effect. Hit a rock or rocks with a battery on the aerator, it takes the full brunt. Not to say it might not survive that for a bit, I would expect diminished battery life/survival.
The Sweep-All aerator only requires power when lifting or lowering the wheels. Hypothetically, having a battery in the weight tray would work. But, like previously stated, the battery and connections would absorb all the vibrations from the aerator
I'd like to see a side by side by side comparison of a strip aerated, nothing (control), and plugged. I get in principle, why/how they should work, but would appreciate real world, tangible results. I ask because my parents have been on the same property since 1972 and have never done anything beyond routine mowing. No sprays, no aeration, etc and their grass looks just as nice and in some cases better than their neighbors who have bought lots around them over the years and spend what I consider an excessive amount of time and money on their lawns. I am probably outside of the majority on this channel because I don't give two flips about my yard. It belongs to the bears, deer, fox, etc just as much as me and they appreciate it being long and I have enough acreage to be exempt from foliage height regulations. I haven't mowed some of my property since 2016 and only mow the area around my house 3-4 times a year, but it is greener than my neighbor's who mows every 10-14 days. The same is true for my office that only gets mowed maybe 6 times a year. I want to know that the time and money has an obvious return.
This is a great question. One of the best things to do for most grass species in a lawn is to keep cut height high, I think. Would be a good additional test. Depending on a lot of other factors, I’ve found certain places in my yard accumulate grass clippings, so bagging, dethatching or just raking those spots is helpful. Ultimately I need to level those little areas.
@@phild9813cool season grasses like fescue are normally cut higher where the warm season grasses like Bermuda are cut lower. One really needs to know what type of grass they have, get the soil tested before doing anything other than mowing. Right now soil testing is free in NC until November!
There's a deer taking a nap under your tree.
Thanks for the video. A lot of good information in this one.
Random deer decoys by the tree!! 😂
Archery target?
And Poison Ivy
So why a snow pushing instead of a 3pt blade
HA! My "lawn" is 50% grass and 50% moss (spagnum in the wet spots and other elsewhere), clover, dandylyons, broadleaf weeds and anything but grass. I don't think we have a blade of grass in the side-yard under a stand of shagbark hickories (window screen destroyers when you hit the nuts with a mower in the fall if the chute is left up - THE ADMIRAL mows there so I blame her). I wouldn't spend a cent to make it grow faster. But then we're nestled in the trees and don't have much lawn except in the front yard. Gardens, pastures and foodplots feed us. Woodlots heat us. Lawns annoy us. ;-)
Sweep all link please
www.sweep-all.com and save 5% with code GWT.
This makes too much sense, as a lawn contractor please remove this video. If people figure out that they can do it cheaper I will be out of business 😅
People are inherently lazy, your business is fine
I made a good living out of “fixing” mistakes homeowners made trying to save a few dollars: streaked lawns, roundup instead of dicot weed control. LOL!
You're fine. Most people don't want to spend the time themselves or think it is rocket science. They want to come home from work and have it done.
Are there any useless attachments out there? This would make an interesting video....🤔💪💪😊🍔🍔🍔