hello friend very good video I'm from Venezuela and I also have a jeep I love jeeps I have pieces of that if you want tell me and I'll send them to you that you may need greetings
They are Method MR304 - Here's the Tirerack.com link: www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=MR30451055550NB&wheelMake=Method&wheelModel=MR304+Double+Standard&wheelFinish=Black+Painted&autoMake=Jeep&autoModel=CJ5%2FCJ7&autoYear=1979&autoModClar=
The tires I went with are 33". 12.5" wide so the full size is listed 33 12.50 x 15. I think 33" is plenty tall enough for a good mix of clearance and lowest possible center of gravity. And then I'm just using springs that add 2 1/2" of lift. If you were to go up to 35" tires, I think you'd need more lift or a body lift
Not to be mean or anything, but the music is annoying and obnoxious!! It is louder than your voice. Do it without the music or turn it down to a whisper so you can be heard clearly. Secondly, you are not supposed to smear the grease on the bearings; you are supposed to get the grease between the roller bearings and onto the inner race they roll on. Either purchase or a cheap bearing greaser or learn how to do it by hand which is the way I learned it when I was knee high to a Harley. Third point is that the spindle nor the inside of the hub is to be greased; it serves no purpose because those parts have no friction. If the inner seal and the gasket on the hub are good (or new), and the machined surfaces that the seal and gasket fit into/onto no moisture or dirt/mud will get in there. As the bearing grease gets warm centrifigal force will coat the hub. If the surfaces are scratched or scored from using a screwdriver or chisle to remove the seal/gasket then wrap a file with 220/320 wet/dry sand paper to smooth out the gasket surfaces evenly. Wrap the largest round deep socket (maybe put a socket extension for a handle) with the same grit paper and carefully smooth out the inside where the round seal fits. All that needs to be done is knock down the raised burrs from the scratches and scores carefully (CAREFULLY BY HAND!!). Then use a light coat (LIGHT!!) of silicone for some sealing insurance. I skipped ahead to what I was actually looking for and you provided the answer, so thank you for that. It appears the socket from a 1980 Toyota will work on the bearing nuts of the JEEP Dana 30. I may not have to go out and purchase a socket for this job.
I think I got the bearings well greased, I was pressing the grease in with the palm of my hand. But a greaser rig would certainly be less messy and probably do a it better job.
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Perhaps I've been spending a little too much time in the garage!?!? Starting to get a bit goofy...
CR 23300 Seal is also used for Big Block Chevy timing cover crankshaft seal
Got it. Thanks,
Thank you for that seal part number. 23300. Part stores keep giving me the wrong seals too. 👍
Glad to hear I could spare you a return to the parts store.
so nice
Thanks for watching!
hello friend very good video I'm from Venezuela and I also have a jeep I love jeeps I have pieces of that if you want tell me and I'll send them to you that you may need greetings
Hello! Welcome! I'm so happy to hear that there are fellow Jeep folks as far away as Venezuela!
@@LandlockedNoMore Hello, yes, I love Jeep CJs and Willys. I love those cars. I have one and it is my treasure. I value it very much.
What rims?
They are Method MR304 - Here's the Tirerack.com link:
www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=MR30451055550NB&wheelMake=Method&wheelModel=MR304+Double+Standard&wheelFinish=Black+Painted&autoMake=Jeep&autoModel=CJ5%2FCJ7&autoYear=1979&autoModClar=
@@LandlockedNoMore thanks for info. What size tire? 33 or 35 and what width. Looks very nice. My cj5 is 4 cyl so too big could be issue.
The tires I went with are 33". 12.5" wide so the full size is listed 33 12.50 x 15. I think 33" is plenty tall enough for a good mix of clearance and lowest possible center of gravity. And then I'm just using springs that add 2 1/2" of lift. If you were to go up to 35" tires, I think you'd need more lift or a body lift
Not to be mean or anything, but the music is annoying and obnoxious!! It is louder than your voice. Do it without the music or turn it down to a whisper so you can be heard clearly.
Secondly, you are not supposed to smear the grease on the bearings; you are supposed to get the grease between the roller bearings and onto the inner race they roll on. Either purchase or a cheap bearing greaser or learn how to do it by hand which is the way I learned it when I was knee high to a Harley.
Third point is that the spindle nor the inside of the hub is to be greased; it serves no purpose because those parts have no friction. If the inner seal and the gasket on the hub are good (or new), and the machined surfaces that the seal and gasket fit into/onto no moisture or dirt/mud will get in there. As the bearing grease gets warm centrifigal force will coat the hub.
If the surfaces are scratched or scored from using a screwdriver or chisle to remove the seal/gasket then wrap a file with 220/320 wet/dry sand paper to smooth out the gasket surfaces evenly. Wrap the largest round deep socket (maybe put a socket extension for a handle) with the same grit paper and carefully smooth out the inside where the round seal fits.
All that needs to be done is knock down the raised burrs from the scratches and scores carefully (CAREFULLY BY HAND!!). Then use a light coat (LIGHT!!) of silicone for some sealing insurance.
I skipped ahead to what I was actually looking for and you provided the answer, so thank you for that. It appears the socket from a 1980 Toyota will work on the bearing nuts of the JEEP Dana 30. I may not have to go out and purchase a socket for this job.
I think I got the bearings well greased, I was pressing the grease in with the palm of my hand. But a greaser rig would certainly be less messy and probably do a it better job.