Ryan Yaites if you wanna see a gixxzilla look up stotz racing pro street team there’s is running in the high 6s in the 1/4 The bike is what’s left of the new gsxr1k
I can never forget the time when I boiled the radiator on the stove, the others are like 'Idiot!' or something, yet it cleaned out all the stuff perfectly. Sometimes, the quick way is the weird way.
Chain - yeh - back in 79, I talked my Dad into letting me borrow his 68 Tiger 650. I was riding and broke the center link. I was near a bearing works shop and walked in carrying my snake. Old fella in the corner looked over and told me the pitch and length. [[Old guys had a scary amount info. But you had to ask the right question - jackpot!] I ran machine chain and links after that. The engine cold not break it and I just needed to "cook" my chain monthly. The bike still sits where I put it - 40 yrs ago.
A guy named Trevor Altman used to come to out local 8th mile track Shadyside Dragway. He had one of Ricky Gadson’s old Kawasaki ZX6 super sport bikes. Trevor was about 185lbs and he ran 6.40’s on that little bike.
@@BrockDavidson he really is! Haven’t seen him in years. I really enjoyed hanging with him at the track every Thursday. Back then he also had a water cooled GSXR 1100 turbo.
I always knew about this mod....just never did it because with my luck I'd get caught in the rain..lol. its a great advantage if you're serious about free HP and if you put in the work melting the grease off & removing the "O" rings.
Well one thing for sure i most definitely need to replace my chain and possibly wheel bearings. Bought my 2012 model brand new and the bearings never got changed out at all. They got over 43k plus miles on them lol. Clutch didn't get changed out as well. Im more laid back type of rider with a few high speed running time from time. Nothing drastic. When I try to spin my rear wheel it does one turn and just stops like somebody pressed the rear break. I clean it and it does a little bit better but still possibly needs to be changed out. Sadly I can not go the same route here with the chain cause i do get caught in the rain a good bit. Best thing I can do is go with bst wheels and ceramic bearings and call it a day. Speed game though about to change since I now have nos for her. Not on the bike yet though and trying to find somebody that can tune her up good and install the nos system.
I love your vids! I get all giggidy when I watch them too, because the information you provide, and attention to detail, just blows my mind! I learn so much. There's a reason you're the fastest! Thank you for all the tips and secrets, and every little detail, to helping us get the most out of our bikes. I just wish you'd post more vids, because you're awesome!!! I'm glad 650ib put me up to game on you.
Awesome video. Numbers always help to justify the worth of doing something. On the subject of chains, would be cool to see a comparison between 530/525/520 chains to see what you pickup from switching to each.
Good to see you back!! When I was young up around MARINES lurps first thing they taught me " pay attention to the details , the details get you killed " and " something always beats nothing " 1 to 3 HP beats 0 ! Thanks for the info. Was the wife home to see you "cooking" THAT on the grill???
@tim, it can - as long as you are conscious to keep it properly lubricated before each session/race. I can tell you that a high-quality o-ring chain with heavy lube will heat up under road race conditions, so the friction is not as great under road race conditions compared to shorter drag race conditions.
I discovered this video today! Took me 3mins to find your question Tim👍 @Brock, thanks a TON for the reply and thank you so VERY much for what you do for the industry, day in and day out.💪 @Tim, have you tried it without yet? Interested to see the results. I may do it this season for a comparison
Good info Brock 👍 I can't wait to get some ceramic bearings!! And a Sprint filter, got the k&n first before i even thought about it; like a dummy. 🤦🤦 oh well it was cheaper & its doing LOTS better than factory till i get the brock stock goods. Doing the clutch mod tomorrow & ditching the slipper clutch which i personally do not like!
The sealing rings aren't on the rollers at all. They are between the inner and outer plates to seal the pin and brushing. The bushing and roller remains unprotected on all chains regardless of whether its unsealed, o ring or x ring.
I'm serious, did you hook them with a hand tool like a screwdriver with needle tip hooked to grab? Or did you use a dremel tool? Those are the two ways I thought of doing it. Inquiring minds need to know. I need to know i doubled up on rivet link and didn't notice until I pressed it together. So I have two on each pin on the backside and one O-ring on the front. Instead of having to pull it all apart buy a new rivet link wait for it in mail. I remember your this video where you discussed pulling all the o-rings out. I was hoping it was explained in the content but was not.
It really depends on the chain. O-ring chains: we typically use a pick and a ground down (thinner) set of Dykes (or flush cut pliers, if you prefer. When done correctly, you can pinch/cut/extract with one smooth motion. On the tighter/thinner x-ring chains: It's though to even grab the ring, so we typically stab it with a pick and try to pull it our enough to hook the pick under and create room to snip the ring. Once cut, pull the ring out using small needle nose etc. It takes 90 min (experienced) to 4-6 hours (struggling rookie) to do a chain. ATTENTION! All of that work will fly out of the window and the chain will be destroyed if you get caught in the rain and don't have chain lube handy.... I have seen them kink and destroy themselves in a single rainy ride. That said, with proper lubrication, they will last as long as an o-ring chain, but have FAR less rolling resistance. I did the OEM chain on my personal Busa in 2008 and it still works great :)
@@BrockDavidson I just needed to remove to extras that I mistakenly added to the new rivet link that I installed. So I had them doubled up on one side of the one new link. I got them out and all is good now. I just took a razor then a pair of needle nose to get the two extras I added. Thank you for taking time to reply to a fool like me. I have your billet aluminum Hayabusa clutch drive installed in my TL100R and have not had any issues with it. I'm very happy I bought it instead of welding together the Clutch Cam Set.
you sir, are awesome. i have a Ninja 400 (the whole 'ride a slow bike fast' thing) and i always used to wonder why the wheel would barely rotate if done manually. i did understand that the chain has friction and an O ring is not very good wrt that. this video is an eye opener. i dont care about top speed so mostly will go 1 tooth up on front sprocket and a non O ring chain mostly (removing O rings might be a bit too much for me right now). thank you for this video.
im hoping to change my plugs on my 06 zx14 because i think there getting bad, ive got hesitation that it didnt have when i first got it and it feels like its somewhat slower than before
You might want to try this: brocksperformance.com/wynns-power-charge-fuel-system-treatment/ it has worked wonders in quite a few bikes here at Brock's.
If your chain has no rings or seals at all, then is there a time limit you can ride before needing to apply new lube? Fort Nine says gear oil works best, but I don't know how easily it comes off when cleaning.
It's the same as running an non o-ring chain. Lube before riding and immediately after riding in the rain etc. We use this for street use: brocksperformance.com/synthetic-chain-lubricant-alisyn-9-oz-aerosol-can/
I tried a $30 non o-ring chain on my SV, got about 750 miles on it before it turned to a pretzel. Just looked at section of spare chain, sure looks like a PITA to remove them! O-ring pick?
Brock I’m so glad I stumbled upon your channel , the knowledge your sharing is awesome, as I would say I’m also an old school kinda guy. !! These are things that money can’t buy. So that big wallet is going to get by the lil wallet !!! 👍🏾 awesome channel brother , keep it coming!!! And thank you Again 🙏🏾
Did you try to just let the chain submerged in acetone,gas or whatever substance o-rings are not compatible with,to remove both o rings and lube ? You would avoid useless manual labor.
@@BrockDavidson thanks one last question. If i want to install a swingarm i would need a longer chain for sure. Will it affect my chain strength if i get 2 same chains (ekthreed) and connect them having 2 connecting links instead of 1?
As a general rule, since the links are a common failure point, it's best to run just one. Not saying you can't run two (we have done it in a pinch), just saying that your chance for link failure is double...Unfortunately, if a link breaks, the chain can also destroy the engine cases, which makes it a very expensive lesson to learn.
Brock, is there a significant advantage over a non oring chain? I guess the ability of the links to free float is increased, but non oring chains are pretty loose in my experience.
All of our Brock's Performance bikes have this mod performed street/race/land speed. It's similar to running a non o-ring chain- it must be lubricated frequently and immediately after being caught in the rain. Properly maintained, they will last thousands of miles.
@@jermeygonzales2236 I always try to reply. To elaborate a bit, the thick lube with no o-rings works very well. Of course, you will have a mess from slinging the lithium grease, but as long as you continue to lube the chain regularly, it will eventually get replaced.
We use an X-acto knife to cut the o rings, and small needle nose pliers to pull them out. I have also ground down side cutters, to cut/pull with the same tool.
How about chain tensioning in a longer wheel base situation EX. I run a drz2 non ring chain in a race only app my rear wheel won’t spin like that ceramics and all but I don’t run a roller and I am sitting at 73” wheel base Should I have a chain roller to allow less tension?
Anything you can do to spin more freely will help you go faster. Roller as well as a larger diameter front ti keep the chain off of the front chain guide.
Brocks the thick material that comes on my chain is really thick that makes it hard to move and cause a lot of friction. However I have an o ring chain what should I do to remove the excess grease of it? Wd 40?
Have you ever tried waxing a non-o-ring chain? And by waxing, I mean completely cleaning the chain (petrol, degreaser, methylated spirits wash) and then submerging in molten wax. Works really well for cycling chains. @Brock Davidson
We have. There is a very good product out of SA that we used to use. The problem with wax is that it get dirty quickly + we have gone quicker/faster at the track with our combination of
Did you use paraffin wax? I’ve found 10 parts paraffin to 1 parts 1.6um PTFE powder does a stellar job at keeping the friction extremely low and the chain exceptionally clean. How do you figure the chain got so dirty and How long did it go until you noticed the dirt?
Awesome video Brock! Thank you for sharing all the tips/tricks/knowledge with the motorcycle community! I just did this mod to my chain for my ZX10 and curious what chain lube you'd recommend using.
You really are a mad scientist, aren't you? I've been watching a lot of your videos recently and i find them very informative. You said something about the drivetrain and i want to ask a thing or two. For starters, after the crankshaft where the factory power ratings are made, you have the gearbox and after that you have the chain and sprockets. Is it possible to change gears in the gearbox for different gears, either made from lighter materials and if it's necessary with different ratios too? The weight of the gears in the transmission must be sucking up the most of the power difference between the engine and the wheel. Obviously it would be expensive but my question is if it's possible, not how much it would cost.
Yes, aftermarket gears are available. No - the majority of driveline losses occur due to the inefficient transfer of energy via the drive chain. Unlike the drive chain, transmission gears are in a constant oil bath. Because they are small in diameter, weight is not much of a factor with strength being a primary concern. That said, performance oils and additives can help reduce gearbox friction as well as specialized coatings like micro-blue and cryo treatments. We use Alisyn Oil bit.ly/3pRL228 with Petron Additive bit.ly/3EOLmD3 for max power/friction reduction.
@@BrockDavidson well, I don't think those oils are available in Europe, I've never heard of them. So, for instance, the gen3 zx10 is rated at 188hp and makes ~165hp on the dyno. Can the chain and sprockets really rob ~33hp? That's quite a lot. What's your opinion on that bike by the way, the 2008 zx10r?
@@vasilisgreen We use a correction factor of 11% loss between the crank and drum. That would make your 165 RWHP = 183 HP at the crank. Besides the drive chain loss, there are also frictional losses/brake drag/bearing, seals etc... But the rolling resistance of the rear tire and available traction (tire pressure becomes very important here...) to the drum make up a large part of the losses also. A street tire vs. a drag radial tire can make a big difference also. Example: we lose as much as 25 RWHP switching to a Shinko hook-up drag tire vs. a stock Bridgestone due to rolling resistance and overcoming "tire stick"....but we have FAR more traction available at the track. knowing these differences makes a huge difference, not only in dyno readings - but at the race track as well. Hope this helps.
@@BrockDavidson ok, makes sense. Thanks for your time. I'm really interested in a '08 model both from an aesthetic standpoint but also for its analog nature since it's a cable throttle bike. Anyway, thanks again for your help.
I went ahead and but an o ring hook puller and got them all out in about 45 min.. 😂😂 what do i need to use to lube the without the o rings now ? @BrockDavidson
@@BrockDavidson Thanks Brock , i dont think this bike will see much street riding... i put 2k miles and now it will be a track bike.. by the way i bought the clutch conversion from you...👍👍
i don't know what type of lubricant you use after the oil bath but, the heavy pressure PTFE lubricant is quite amazing but you have to be careful about the application. if it gets to the brake pads or rotors, tyres. you better have some white vinegar or acetone with you before going anywhere. this shit is an accident source if sprayed on these parts.
Thanks Brock I really appreciate the busa fender bolt tip (been👀) I got a 18 gixis 1000f white lowered 1”1/4 with t-rex and trex kicker(I like your stand better be using one on the next build).definitely going to throw some of your tips on the 🏍 as well. FOR SURE GETTING 👽 LOL
cyclists have recently been looking into chain efficiency. bicycle chains don't have o-rings, so they're starting one step ahead. they've found measurable differences in efficiency just by using different lubricants, with motor oil pretty far down on the list. i'd imagine if you can measure efficiency improvement at bicycle power outputs, it would be a substantial difference on a motorcycle. if you're in the mood to experiment www.bikeradar.com/news/friction-facts-publishes-ultrafast-chain-lube-formula/
Hey Brock huge fan of your channel, very informative. Quick question... On a stock 2013 ninja zx6 636... Would I need a tune/ PCV? I'm more of a street rider so reliability is important.
Why not go the cycling route? Clean the chain thouroughly in solvent and bath it in wax and PTFE. It's what the pro cycling teams do and is without doubt the most efficient way.
They don't have the option of completely removing the roller to plate friction by removing the o-rings like we do. Wax is great for long distances, but it has more friction than light oil for short distances.
Quick question. If I just want to remove all the OEM lithium... could I potentially let the chain soak in Kerosene? Drying, then laying in oil? Basically just removing the heating (and o-ring removal) process.
The o-rings will prevent (most) of the penetration of Kerosene from ever reaching the pins/rollers where the lithium grease is mainly housed. It would remove clean the external lithium, but no performance gain would be recognized.
Is Gixilla done?
Ryan Yaites if you wanna see a gixxzilla look up stotz racing pro street team there’s is running in the high 6s in the 1/4
The bike is what’s left of the new gsxr1k
It will be at the track soon. We are in the middle of our busiest year in the last 5. Good for business, bad for extra time.
@@BrockDavidson thank you. U guys are awesome
My bad not stotz racing it’s the new HTP bike
I heard someone made 209 hp out of a new 1000.... Hmmmm
Always a good day when a Brock video drops ☺
Can you smell what the Brock is cooking?! Brock, you are a wild, but I like it. Every little bit adds up.
I can never forget the time when I boiled the radiator on the stove, the others are like 'Idiot!' or something, yet it cleaned out all the stuff perfectly. Sometimes, the quick way is the weird way.
Chain - yeh - back in 79, I talked my Dad into letting me borrow his 68 Tiger 650. I was riding and broke the center link. I was near a bearing works shop and walked in carrying my snake. Old fella in the corner looked over and told me the pitch and length. [[Old guys had a scary amount info. But you had to ask the right question - jackpot!] I ran machine chain and links after that. The engine cold not break it and I just needed to "cook" my chain monthly. The bike still sits where I put it - 40 yrs ago.
Really nice video explaining the difference and gain power.
spinning that wheel by hand like that says it all right there
A guy named Trevor Altman used to come to out local 8th mile track Shadyside Dragway. He had one of Ricky Gadson’s old Kawasaki ZX6 super sport bikes. Trevor was about 185lbs and he ran 6.40’s on that little bike.
AND he's a really nice guy!
@@BrockDavidson he really is! Haven’t seen him in years. I really enjoyed hanging with him at the track every Thursday. Back then he also had a water cooled GSXR 1100 turbo.
I always knew about this mod....just never did it because with my luck I'd get caught in the rain..lol. its a great advantage if you're serious about free HP and if you put in the work melting the grease off & removing the "O" rings.
That's a nifty little chain mod. Thanks.
Great video, but wouldn't a solvent and ultrasonic process do the same faster and safer? Just saying. I would like to know.
I have no idea. Perhaps! But how many have access? This just takes heat, a pan and a smile.
Thanks for responding. That's why I am a fan.
THIS CHAIN IS RAW !!!
How did no one catch this gordon Ramsay comment lol
So brock can you "cook" a chain that has the o-rings on it and expect less friction or is it a waste of time?
Waste of time
Have you done a dyno test with theses mods perhaps?
Of course. Average gain on dyno is 2-3 RWHP. The most is 7 HP, as mentioned in video.
Can you guys buy a chain w/ no o-ring? DID sells them?
The most interesting content on TH-cam!
Hi, can I cook a new chain? Or only dirty old chains?
The chain in this video was brand new out of the box.
How do you cut the O-rings out with an exacto knife?
What kind of wood was that soup spoon made out of😁
What about running lightweight rotors?
They help... Unless you have a stock wheelbase bike and are trying to keep the front end down while drag racing.
Well one thing for sure i most definitely need to replace my chain and possibly wheel bearings. Bought my 2012 model brand new and the bearings never got changed out at all. They got over 43k plus miles on them lol. Clutch didn't get changed out as well. Im more laid back type of rider with a few high speed running time from time. Nothing drastic. When I try to spin my rear wheel it does one turn and just stops like somebody pressed the rear break. I clean it and it does a little bit better but still possibly needs to be changed out.
Sadly I can not go the same route here with the chain cause i do get caught in the rain a good bit. Best thing I can do is go with bst wheels and ceramic bearings and call it a day. Speed game though about to change since I now have nos for her. Not on the bike yet though and trying to find somebody that can tune her up good and install the nos system.
I love your vids! I get all giggidy when I watch them too, because the information you provide, and attention to detail, just blows my mind! I learn so much. There's a reason you're the fastest! Thank you for all the tips and secrets, and every little detail, to helping us get the most out of our bikes. I just wish you'd post more vids, because you're awesome!!! I'm glad 650ib put me up to game on you.
Brock love your videos!! Is it worth swapping my chain on a 2018 aprilia rsv4 to a 520 set up?
Make a video on pros and cons of tuning
Powermovemj it's on the list. BTW, the only cons are doing it wrong😉
Awesome video. Numbers always help to justify the worth of doing something.
On the subject of chains, would be cool to see a comparison between 530/525/520 chains to see what you pickup from switching to each.
BTW, how's the GSXR coming along?
Good to see you back!! When I was young up around MARINES lurps first thing they taught me " pay attention to the details , the details get you killed " and " something always beats nothing " 1 to 3 HP beats 0 ! Thanks for the info. Was the wife home to see you "cooking" THAT on the grill???
Semper Fi!
I did not serve. Went to physical at 17, found out I was missing internal parts.
Hey brock awesome video. Just wondering if that chain mod be ok on a road race bike?
@tim, it can - as long as you are conscious to keep it properly lubricated before each session/race. I can tell you that a high-quality o-ring chain with heavy lube will heat up under road race conditions, so the friction is not as great under road race conditions compared to shorter drag race conditions.
I discovered this video today! Took me 3mins to find your question Tim👍
@Brock, thanks a TON for the reply and thank you so VERY much for what you do for the industry, day in and day out.💪
@Tim, have you tried it without yet? Interested to see the results. I may do it this season for a comparison
Good info Brock 👍 I can't wait to get some ceramic bearings!! And a Sprint filter, got the k&n first before i even thought about it; like a dummy. 🤦🤦 oh well it was cheaper & its doing LOTS better than factory till i get the brock stock goods. Doing the clutch mod tomorrow & ditching the slipper clutch which i personally do not like!
The sealing rings aren't on the rollers at all. They are between the inner and outer plates to seal the pin and brushing. The bushing and roller remains unprotected on all chains regardless of whether its unsealed, o ring or x ring.
Please check this out for clarity: bit.ly/3bFPHeq
I'm serious, did you hook them with a hand tool like a screwdriver with needle tip hooked to grab? Or did you use a dremel tool? Those are the two ways I thought of doing it. Inquiring minds need to know. I need to know i doubled up on rivet link and didn't notice until I pressed it together. So I have two on each pin on the backside and one O-ring on the front. Instead of having to pull it all apart buy a new rivet link wait for it in mail. I remember your this video where you discussed pulling all the o-rings out. I was hoping it was explained in the content but was not.
It really depends on the chain. O-ring chains: we typically use a pick and a ground down (thinner) set of Dykes (or flush cut pliers, if you prefer. When done correctly, you can pinch/cut/extract with one smooth motion. On the tighter/thinner x-ring chains: It's though to even grab the ring, so we typically stab it with a pick and try to pull it our enough to hook the pick under and create room to snip the ring. Once cut, pull the ring out using small needle nose etc. It takes 90 min (experienced) to 4-6 hours (struggling rookie) to do a chain. ATTENTION! All of that work will fly out of the window and the chain will be destroyed if you get caught in the rain and don't have chain lube handy.... I have seen them kink and destroy themselves in a single rainy ride. That said, with proper lubrication, they will last as long as an o-ring chain, but have FAR less rolling resistance. I did the OEM chain on my personal Busa in 2008 and it still works great :)
@@BrockDavidson I just needed to remove to extras that I mistakenly added to the new rivet link that I installed. So I had them doubled up on one side of the one new link. I got them out and all is good now. I just took a razor then a pair of needle nose to get the two extras I added. Thank you for taking time to reply to a fool like me. I have your billet aluminum Hayabusa clutch drive installed in my TL100R and have not had any issues with it. I'm very happy I bought it instead of welding together the Clutch Cam Set.
you sir, are awesome. i have a Ninja 400 (the whole 'ride a slow bike fast' thing) and i always used to wonder why the wheel would barely rotate if done manually. i did understand that the chain has friction and an O ring is not very good wrt that. this video is an eye opener. i dont care about top speed so mostly will go 1 tooth up on front sprocket and a non O ring chain mostly (removing O rings might be a bit too much for me right now). thank you for this video.
Amazing!!
What merhod do you use to remove the o-rings from the chain ? @brockdavidson
How did you pull all the O-rings out of that chain?
Slowly....
What chain did you cook up? Was it a zx ring as well?
@James Ramos - any o-ring chain benefits. The zx and other thinner rings work the same with less side-flex, but they are a *itch to remove.
im hoping to change my plugs on my 06 zx14 because i think there getting bad, ive got hesitation that it didnt have when i first got it and it feels like its somewhat slower than before
You might want to try this: brocksperformance.com/wynns-power-charge-fuel-system-treatment/ it has worked wonders in quite a few bikes here at Brock's.
Stipid question. can you do with the the orings still installed?
You would need to subject the chain to extreemly hot temps to melt the o-rings - enough heat that it could damage the strength of the chain.
Can you do that with a chain with the rubber graments still in it or no
no
If your chain has no rings or seals at all, then is there a time limit you can ride before needing to apply new lube? Fort Nine says gear oil works best, but I don't know how easily it comes off when cleaning.
It's the same as running an non o-ring chain. Lube before riding and immediately after riding in the rain etc. We use this for street use: brocksperformance.com/synthetic-chain-lubricant-alisyn-9-oz-aerosol-can/
Brock, great video! What’s your opinion of running a 520 chain on a liter bike?
We used to have a stack of broken engine cases to prove any bike over 1000cc needs a strong 530 chain when drag racing.
I’ve also seen first hand on my buddy’s gsxr 1000 that you need a 530 chain. His 520 broke and cracked his engine casing also.
Brock Davidson thank you for the reply. I was torn on going 520 or staying 530 on my ZX10r. That definitely convinced me to stay 530.
Words of wisdom right there. Moto GP bikes seem to use bicycle chains. Wonder how that works for them.
I tried a $30 non o-ring chain on my SV, got about 750 miles on it before it turned to a pretzel. Just looked at section of spare chain, sure looks like a PITA to remove them! O-ring pick?
You got off lucky if it didn't break. You really do get what you pay for.
Just a question about the play of the links with the O-rings removed.Does the little extra lateral movement cause additional wear to the sprockets?
Not that we can tell.
Brock I’m so glad I stumbled upon your channel , the knowledge your sharing is awesome, as I would say I’m also an old school kinda guy. !! These are things that money can’t buy. So that big wallet is going to get by the lil wallet !!! 👍🏾 awesome channel brother , keep it coming!!! And thank you Again 🙏🏾
I rarely disagree with Brock so with good tips like this, there is no need to start😎
Did you try to just let the chain submerged in acetone,gas or whatever substance o-rings are not compatible with,to remove both o rings and lube ?
You would avoid useless manual labor.
nope
Brock will cooking my chain (with oring) the same way you did will affect my orings?
The heat is to remove the heavy grease. If the o-rings are in place, the grease can't leave.
@@BrockDavidson thanks one last question. If i want to install a swingarm i would need a longer chain for sure. Will it affect my chain strength if i get 2 same chains (ekthreed) and connect them having 2 connecting links instead of 1?
As a general rule, since the links are a common failure point, it's best to run just one. Not saying you can't run two (we have done it in a pinch), just saying that your chance for link failure is double...Unfortunately, if a link breaks, the chain can also destroy the engine cases, which makes it a very expensive lesson to learn.
Brock, is there a significant advantage over a non oring chain? I guess the ability of the links to free float is increased, but non oring chains are pretty loose in my experience.
Is this a modification suggested for street bikes or Drag bikes
All of our Brock's Performance bikes have this mod performed street/race/land speed. It's similar to running a non o-ring chain- it must be lubricated frequently and immediately after being caught in the rain. Properly maintained, they will last thousands of miles.
What if we just take off the Orings n not cook up the chain will it still give some hp out?
Yes.
@@BrockDavidson nice.. appreciate u for replying brother
@@jermeygonzales2236 I always try to reply. To elaborate a bit, the thick lube with no o-rings works very well. Of course, you will have a mess from slinging the lithium grease, but as long as you continue to lube the chain regularly, it will eventually get replaced.
@@BrockDavidson 10/4 jus ordered a new chain n definitely goin to try it... thanks again brother
Could you taste the chain oil on your burgers the next time you grilled. ..lol
Great video man good information
What's the best way to remove the o-rings?
We use an X-acto knife to cut the o rings, and small needle nose pliers to pull them out. I have also ground down side cutters, to cut/pull with the same tool.
More words of wisdom. Liked!
Thanx fir the videos. I learn so much every one
Hi Brock have you tried dry PTFE for chain lube, makes noticeable difference for rolling resistance?
We have. It's great for everyday use.
The links floating around after the O-rings are removed isn't a safety concern?
Not that we have seen in 15+ years of performing this mod.
@@BrockDavidson Thanks. Your videos are priceless. I just ordered a Sprint air filter from you. I can't wait to get it.
@@matt3122 thanks !!
Thanks for the tips 👍
How about chain tensioning in a longer wheel base situation
EX. I run a drz2 non ring chain in a race only app my rear wheel won’t spin like that ceramics and all but I don’t run a roller and I am sitting at 73” wheel base
Should I have a chain roller to allow less tension?
Anything you can do to spin more freely will help you go faster. Roller as well as a larger diameter front ti keep the chain off of the front chain guide.
Brocks the thick material that comes on my chain is really thick that makes it hard to move and cause a lot of friction. However I have an o ring chain what should I do to remove the excess grease of it? Wd 40?
Yes, wd40 works well. Or you can purchase motorcycle chain cleaner.
Brock you'r a badass
Have you ever tried waxing a non-o-ring chain? And by waxing, I mean completely cleaning the chain (petrol, degreaser, methylated spirits wash) and then submerging in molten wax.
Works really well for cycling chains. @Brock Davidson
We have. There is a very good product out of SA that we used to use. The problem with wax is that it get dirty quickly + we have gone quicker/faster at the track with our combination of
Did you use paraffin wax? I’ve found 10 parts paraffin to 1 parts 1.6um PTFE powder does a stellar job at keeping the friction extremely low and the chain exceptionally clean. How do you figure the chain got so dirty and How long did it go until you noticed the dirt?
@@RadomKidsareme000 we used this: bit.ly/2Px71sy worked well - just not as good as oil.
Awesome video Brock! Thank you for sharing all the tips/tricks/knowledge with the motorcycle community! I just did this mod to my chain for my ZX10 and curious what chain lube you'd recommend using.
+C3L1CA94 we use Alison
@@BrockDavidson how do you apply the oil to limit fling? It sounds messy lol
@@BrockDavidson how do you apply the oil? Seems like it could get pretty messy and possibly fling on the tire
We use a small oiling bottle and wipe off the excess with a rag.
www.grainger.com/search?searchBar=true&searchQuery=Squeeze+Dispensing+Bottle%2C+Polyethylene%2C+White
You really are a mad scientist, aren't you? I've been watching a lot of your videos recently and i find them very informative. You said something about the drivetrain and i want to ask a thing or two. For starters, after the crankshaft where the factory power ratings are made, you have the gearbox and after that you have the chain and sprockets. Is it possible to change gears in the gearbox for different gears, either made from lighter materials and if it's necessary with different ratios too? The weight of the gears in the transmission must be sucking up the most of the power difference between the engine and the wheel. Obviously it would be expensive but my question is if it's possible, not how much it would cost.
Yes, aftermarket gears are available. No - the majority of driveline losses occur due to the inefficient transfer of energy via the drive chain. Unlike the drive chain, transmission gears are in a constant oil bath. Because they are small in diameter, weight is not much of a factor with strength being a primary concern. That said, performance oils and additives can help reduce gearbox friction as well as specialized coatings like micro-blue and cryo treatments. We use Alisyn Oil bit.ly/3pRL228 with Petron Additive bit.ly/3EOLmD3 for max power/friction reduction.
@@BrockDavidson well, I don't think those oils are available in Europe, I've never heard of them. So, for instance, the gen3 zx10 is rated at 188hp and makes ~165hp on the dyno. Can the chain and sprockets really rob ~33hp? That's quite a lot. What's your opinion on that bike by the way, the 2008 zx10r?
@@vasilisgreen We use a correction factor of 11% loss between the crank and drum. That would make your 165 RWHP = 183 HP at the crank. Besides the drive chain loss, there are also frictional losses/brake drag/bearing, seals etc... But the rolling resistance of the rear tire and available traction (tire pressure becomes very important here...) to the drum make up a large part of the losses also. A street tire vs. a drag radial tire can make a big difference also. Example: we lose as much as 25 RWHP switching to a Shinko hook-up drag tire vs. a stock Bridgestone due to rolling resistance and overcoming "tire stick"....but we have FAR more traction available at the track. knowing these differences makes a huge difference, not only in dyno readings - but at the race track as well. Hope this helps.
And sorry - the 08 is a great bike! From a pure racing/hp standpoint we are very impressed with the 16+ bikes.
@@BrockDavidson ok, makes sense. Thanks for your time. I'm really interested in a '08 model both from an aesthetic standpoint but also for its analog nature since it's a cable throttle bike. Anyway, thanks again for your help.
I went ahead and but an o ring hook puller and got them all out in about 45 min.. 😂😂 what do i need to use to lube the without the o rings now ? @BrockDavidson
Chain lube. Just remember, if you get caught in the rain with a non-o-ring chain and don't lube it...it will die quickly.
@@BrockDavidson Thanks Brock , i dont think this bike will see much street riding... i put 2k miles and now it will be a track bike.. by the way i bought the clutch conversion from you...👍👍
Love it
Cooking with Brock 👍
i don't know what type of lubricant you use after the oil bath but, the heavy pressure PTFE lubricant is quite amazing but you have to be careful about the application. if it gets to the brake pads or rotors, tyres. you better have some white vinegar or acetone with you before going anywhere. this shit is an accident source if sprayed on these parts.
We use Tribolube from Alisyn Aerospace.
Hey Brock, why did you use a ceramic coated pan. Geez, those are good pans. Hahahaha
can i do your yardwork for bike mods
I’ve yet to see a Brock’s performance video I didn’t love watching 🏍
That soup looked to die for.
I think this technique would work well with a hydrosonic cleaner.
Thanks Brock I really appreciate the busa fender bolt tip (been👀) I got a 18 gixis 1000f white lowered 1”1/4 with t-rex and trex kicker(I like your stand better be using one on the next build).definitely going to throw some of your tips on the 🏍 as well. FOR SURE GETTING 👽 LOL
👍🏻 thx
so what's up you have to take all the O-rings out
I’d love to work at brocks even as janitor
HEY! That's my job ;)
cyclists have recently been looking into chain efficiency. bicycle chains don't have o-rings, so they're starting one step ahead. they've found measurable differences in efficiency just by using different lubricants, with motor oil pretty far down on the list. i'd imagine if you can measure efficiency improvement at bicycle power outputs, it would be a substantial difference on a motorcycle. if you're in the mood to experiment www.bikeradar.com/news/friction-facts-publishes-ultrafast-chain-lube-formula/
For street use, we use this chain lube from Alisyn Aerospace: brocksperformance.com/synthetic-chain-lubricant-alisyn-9-oz-aerosol-can/
Not all things are measured in hp, even though we'd like it to be.
Not sure what world you live in? ;)
Brock, what ya doin'? "Cookin' up some chain". Wait what?
Hey Brock huge fan of your channel, very informative. Quick question... On a stock 2013 ninja zx6 636... Would I need a tune/ PCV? I'm more of a street rider so reliability is important.
Street guys always have the best questions 😂😂
Yes. For maximum performance and drivability.
Brook, keep on cooking up that Stupid Fast! Do ya smell what The Brook is cooking!
And i thought i was MAD !!!! ;)
Your the best😂👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Brock, You Rock!
Why not go the cycling route? Clean the chain thouroughly in solvent and bath it in wax and PTFE. It's what the pro cycling teams do and is without doubt the most efficient way.
They don't have the option of completely removing the roller to plate friction by removing the o-rings like we do. Wax is great for long distances, but it has more friction than light oil for short distances.
DAMN! If there was an inflatable like button, like the one in fb messenger, I'd hold it down until the thumb covers my whole screen!
7second drag bikes can't kill Brock but a barbecue might. #ironic
It's a shame you can't just buy a chain that good?
We used to sell them finished...but they were $400.
Mmmmm fresh cooked chain...
The forbidden spaghetti
Quick question. If I just want to remove all the OEM lithium... could I potentially let the chain soak in Kerosene? Drying, then laying in oil? Basically just removing the heating (and o-ring removal) process.
The o-rings will prevent (most) of the penetration of Kerosene from ever reaching the pins/rollers where the lithium grease is mainly housed. It would remove clean the external lithium, but no performance gain would be recognized.
Wow that's little extreme
My personal streetbike made 400+ hp on a 200+ hp dual stage nitrous set-up and ran 7 second 1/4 miles back in 2000. Been doing extreme a long time.
The evil is in the details 😈
You should heat it up to non magnetic...lol
Tht much play in a chain cant b good 🤦🏾♂️
Lol Everbody likes free!! Brock just stingy!!!!
99% street... gets $4K carbon wheels lmfao...
There is no other way to obtain similar performance-enhancing results compared to adding carbon wheels... at any price.