HA!! Im number 100 subscriber. Remember us when your famous LOL. Just bought these plans, thanks for posting this. gonna have fun with this!!! Thanks! and post more!!
@@stevesclocks hey Steve, im just in the planning phase and I wanted to ask if there is a reason not to use ABS? I am thinking about vapor polishing all the parts, however this may be a tricky move. what do you think?
@@michaelvickers8575 It seems like it should work. Try a few small parts before committing the entire clock. The gears have loose tolerances and I think the escapement will also be OK.
Hi Steve great design downloaded the files couple days ago loving it so far, printing using PETG filament the size of the clock will look very impressive, the videos will be very handy cheers can’t wait for the mantlepiece clocks to come out as well.
Probably not. Most of the steps are the same between both clocks. You should be able to follow along with the assembly manual and the videos of the larger clocks.
I very much love the clocks you have designed and built. As a budding 3d printing clock maker I would love any guidance you may have with regards to resources for your designs. I'm still very new at this but very much intent on spending the time to learn all there is. Thank you in advance.
Welcome to a new hobby. It can be addictive. If you are worried about some of the non-printed components, then I recommend the clocks in my "easy-build" series. The non-printed components were reduced to the bare minimum while still maintaining good runtimes. I am a lazy clock winder, so I want several days of runtime. A few hidden metal parts are required for this to be possible.
Hello Steve, congratulations, great job, I will acquire the .STL files as soon as I receive my printer, would you have the dimensions of the screws, pins and bearings, a list of parts that I will have to buy in the market, for me to see if I can find them here in Brazil, thank you very much
The assembly guide can be downloaded from www.stevesclocks.com/sp2 This is a relatively old design. My newer clocks have much smaller parts lists. Assembly guides for all of them can be found at the same web site.
Steve, I'm not sure why I never noticed this previously but I've used brass for both diameters of arbor, but you specify piano wire for the narrower. Is there an issue using brass for the narrower, should I look at changing to piano wire?
Some brass works great. And some brass is too soft. It is not always specified what type you are getting. There is no need to change it if your clock is working. Other builders using brass might not be as lucky. I specify music wire because it always comes in a fully hardened state. It will always be the proper quality.
Hi Steve, when printing the front frame lower and changing colors for the face and numbers do you use the filament change script or the pause at height script? Thanks
It depends on your slicer. PrusaSlicer has a simple mechanism to slide a lever and click a button where a color change is needed. Bambu's slicer possibly operates the same since it is a fork of PrusaSlicer. I think Cura uses a script to post-process the pause into the gcode. The end result is the same for either method.
Hi Steve, i printed all the parts and get stuck in the assembly, after placing gear 8 (spool), the next part you say is gear 7, but that is the ratchet gear. I've tried gear 5 which looks like the right gear but it is just too big in diameter and wont fit. Cant figure this out. Help please.
Part 2 of the assembly video shows the gears being added. Gear 7 is closer to the back frame, so it gets added before gear 8. The outer hub of gear 7 nests inside the winding barrel on gear 8, but it should still fit.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for your quick reply. I just figured it out, for some reason i have a gear 5-54-12. The proper gear is 48 -12, which wasnt in my download. Downloaded the zip file again and the correct file is there. So hopefully i can complete the clock. So much detail, look forward to any new designs you might have as i like assembling things.
There is plenty of information in the assembly guide. If you are asking about the arbors, it is just music wire available at many local hardware stores, eBay, amazon, etc.
I may ne late and you may not read this till im too flustered 😅, but i was gifted this already printed and was tols they went by your measurements. I found your website and love it all, these are amazing i love outting things like this together. I may be over or underthing i am still at the first part. Where i have to put the alignment pins, but the instructions aren't clear on what rhose are as i broke a piece ans they are graciously peinting anothwr for mw but i figured the alignment pins were the 17 small pieces, yet they dont go in at all, any help for me to figure this out?
The alignment pin holes are supposed to be tight. Different printer tolerances make them slightly tight for some builders and super tight for others. The solution is to drill them to fit with a 3mm or 1/8" drill bit.
Hi steve. Great design by the way. I need an information regarding the period of oscillation. Is this a one second clock? I believe you are using a 8 and 60 tooth gear combination right? Also whats the run time of this clock? I wanna build this for a students project. So, i wanna clarify this before using your design. Thanks!
Thanks. A one second pendulum would have a length of almost 1 meter. This length looks good in a grandfather clock, but seems out of place in a small wall mounted clock. All of my clocks have shorter pendulums with periods of around 0.6 to 0.7 seconds. Many wooden gear clock designs have pendulums with a one second period.
Hi Steve, the clock is coming along nicely, so many thanks for making your files available on Minifactory. Is there a specific technical reason for using thinner diameter arbors for gears 2_54_12 and 3_54_12? I am having trouble sourcing 1.5mm metal rod, so would it be OK to drill out those holes and use 3mm arbors instead (same as the other arbors)? Thank you.
The smaller diameter has slightly less friction which helps contribute to longer runtimes. I have never tested 3mm arbors, but there are enough gear options to make up for the extra friction. It seems like the clock should still run. My biggest concern is the amount of wall material left after drilling a 3mm hole. It should still be OK if everything was printed with at least 4 perimeters. It would be much safer if you could find some 2mm rod.
Amazon or eBay. Search for Dubro 597. Packs of 12 collars are currently around US$9. This would be enough for 2 clocks. A local RC hobby shop might have some in stock to pick up without waiting for shipping.
Hi Steve, I've bought and downloaded the files for printing the large Skeletal clock. I don't really like the 'fancy' hands included and want to use the plainer hands like those on the small clock. Can I do this or is there another file for 'plain' hands for the Skeletal Clock? Also great to see both clocks use similar parts, so I can use some of the leftovers from my small clock build. Fantastic designs, keep up your great work.
Hi Ross, The hands are fairly non-critical and can usually be copied between designs, except the length will be a little bit off. My latest "easy build" design has two different faces, roman numerals or simple numbers. It includes both styles of hands. Steve
@@stevesclocks Hi Steve, In am happy with the Roman numerals but just wanted the plain hands. I didn't want the 'easy build' and don't think I will outlay an extra US$10 just to get the plain hands. At some stage down the track might you be able to incorporate a set of plain hands into the Skeletal stl files set? Still a great design and I will start printing sometime next week.
@@rossevans1035 I added the spade hands from the easy build clock into the design that you purchased. The file is hands_spade_met.stl. It is ideal for metric sized arbors and will work after a small amount of filing for imperial arbors. It takes a few hours to pass the MMF software checks and you may need to look under "Object Parts" to download the individual file.
Hi Steve.... I recently joined the world of 3D printing and really want to build your beautiful clock. My question is where do you get the additional parts like the metal pins and screws needed. Thanks for your help.
The screws are from any hardware store in the US. Many builders outside the US have completed the clock without any reporting issues finding equivalent screws. The metal pins are from a local hobby shop that sells K&S metals. Metric or imperial sizes are supported. The other critical components include 5 ball bearings and 6 shaft collars that I order from the internet. The remaining components are not critical and acceptable solutions can be found anywhere. Several weight shell sizes are provided depending on the density of fill material. You could use lead shot, BBs, or possibly even sand. The weight cord can be almost any cord that is strong and thin.
Hi. i downloaded today the pendulum clock with blue numbers. i don't understand how to print the colored numbers? do you print them separately? My printer is "Creality Ender 3 V2 , and i don't know how to print in 2 colors. Thanks for your answer. Isidor
The color changes are made by manually switching filament when the print gets to a certain layer height. A pause can be added by the slicer and it will wait for you to switch colors. The positions to add the pauses are explained in the detailed assembly manual.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the 3mm short pins to fit into the holes of the bracket that holds the two back frame pieces together. The long pins between the top and the bottom fit fine, but the short pins just won't go in. How do I solve this issue?
The holes for the short pins were deliberately made tight. Different printers have different tolerances and they might be too tight. Drill them out with a 3mm drill bit. It might also work fine without the short alignment pins. There should be enough screws to hold the parts together properly. My latest clock is a simpler design that only uses 3/4" wood screws to hold the entire clock together. The longest runtime option (32 days) uses 11 pounds of drive weight.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for the quick reply. After I took a break and calmed myself down ;) I realized that just drilling out the holes a little would solve the problem. I have successfully completed the back frame now. Thanks again.
@@GutsyGibbon I think some of the parts might be "slightly" over-designed in this clock. The weight shell is pulling on the pieces, but it could have been designed a bit simpler and it would hold together just fine. 😀
Hi Steve. What size printer capacity is needed to build this clock. I have an Ultimaker 2+ with 223 x 223 x 205 cm maximum build size and would like to undertake this project if my printer has a big enough capacity. Thanks.
Hi Mike. I design all of my clocks to fit a 220x220mm Ender 3 or 210x250mm Prusa MK3S build plate. Height is rarely an issue. Your machine should easily be capable. There is also a smaller option for something like a Prusa Mini. The lighter weight gears in the small clocks use less energy and the runtimes are longer. One of my clock designs runs for 32 days per wind, but only in the small version. The large version only gets half the runtime.
Timing is controlled by the pendulum length, so scaling everything except the pendulum will keep the timing the same. However, this design has built-in threads for screws and bearing pockets in a few key places. Those would need to be adjusted after scaling I did scale the design to 3/4 size for smaller printers. The escapement was increased from 25 teeth to 27 teeth to allow a shorter pendulum that is more proportional to the overall clock. A larger clock might look better with a 24 tooth escapement and all other gearing unchanged. The drive weight might need to be adjusted since larger gears need more energy to accelerate with each tick. So to answer your original question, yes, the clock will scale. I like to make a few minor optimizations for each size, but they might not be absolutely needed. Keep in mind that the clock is already quite large with an 8" dial and nearly 20" overall height.
@@AdamZ5k It should be possible to scale the size and adjust a few parts. For example, scale X and Y by 50%, scale Z by 30%. The 1.5mm diameter arbors get upsized to 2.2mm. The 6x3/4" wood screws get upsized to 10x1" screws. Bearings could be kept the same size and print collars to go around them so they stay centered. Save the weight shell for last so you can determine how much weight is required. It might work with the large weight shell filled with lead shot instead of BBs. A few steps may require some experimentation. It seems to me that common sense solutions for most parts should allow the clock to be built. I look forward to your progress if you decide to attempt it. I can give recommendations as you go, but may not be able to build one myself since I only have a Prusa MK3S.
I have several different clock designs. Not all have assembly videos, but the steps are somewhat similar for each clock family. Every clock has a very detailed PDF manual that lists the step by step assembly process. The videos seem to help some people with a few of the steps, but they are only designed to compliment the PDF instructions. It would be very difficult to build these clocks using just the videos.
I offer these models for an incredibly low price compared to the amount of effort it takes to design and document them. Please consider purchasing them through the proper channels.
This is the best video I've seen on the subject. Thank you.
im currently printing the parts to build this clock and im excited to complete it..
HA!! Im number 100 subscriber. Remember us when your famous LOL. Just bought these plans, thanks for posting this. gonna have fun with this!!! Thanks! and post more!!
Congrats on being lucky number 100. More designs are coming. I like to experiment and fine tune many of the parts so it takes me a while.
@@stevesclocks hey Steve, im just in the planning phase and I wanted to ask if there is a reason not to use ABS? I am thinking about vapor polishing all the parts, however this may be a tricky move. what do you think?
@@michaelvickers8575 It seems like it should work. Try a few small parts before committing the entire clock. The gears have loose tolerances and I think the escapement will also be OK.
Hi Steve great design downloaded the files couple days ago loving it so far, printing using PETG filament the size of the clock will look very impressive, the videos will be very handy cheers can’t wait for the mantlepiece clocks to come out as well.
hey Steve. really beautiful Clocks! are you gonna make an assembly video of your first pendulum clock?
Probably not. Most of the steps are the same between both clocks. You should be able to follow along with the assembly manual and the videos of the larger clocks.
I very much love the clocks you have designed and built. As a budding 3d printing clock maker I would love any guidance you may have with regards to resources for your designs. I'm still very new at this but very much intent on spending the time to learn all there is. Thank you in advance.
Welcome to a new hobby. It can be addictive. If you are worried about some of the non-printed components, then I recommend the clocks in my "easy-build" series. The non-printed components were reduced to the bare minimum while still maintaining good runtimes. I am a lazy clock winder, so I want several days of runtime. A few hidden metal parts are required for this to be possible.
How Can I buy this kind?
Amazing work🔥👌👍😍
Hello Steve, congratulations, great job, I will acquire the .STL files as soon as I receive my printer, would you have the dimensions of the screws, pins and bearings, a list of parts that I will have to buy in the market, for me to see if I can find them here in Brazil, thank you very much
The assembly guide can be downloaded from www.stevesclocks.com/sp2
This is a relatively old design. My newer clocks have much smaller parts lists. Assembly guides for all of them can be found at the same web site.
Steve, I'm not sure why I never noticed this previously but I've used brass for both diameters of arbor, but you specify piano wire for the narrower. Is there an issue using brass for the narrower, should I look at changing to piano wire?
Some brass works great. And some brass is too soft. It is not always specified what type you are getting. There is no need to change it if your clock is working. Other builders using brass might not be as lucky.
I specify music wire because it always comes in a fully hardened state. It will always be the proper quality.
Hi Steve, when printing the front frame lower and changing colors for the face and numbers do you use the filament change script or the pause at height script? Thanks
It depends on your slicer. PrusaSlicer has a simple mechanism to slide a lever and click a button where a color change is needed. Bambu's slicer possibly operates the same since it is a fork of PrusaSlicer. I think Cura uses a script to post-process the pause into the gcode. The end result is the same for either method.
Hi Steve, i printed all the parts and get stuck in the assembly, after placing gear 8 (spool), the next part you say is gear 7, but that is the ratchet gear. I've tried gear 5 which looks like the right gear but it is just too big in diameter and wont fit. Cant figure this out. Help please.
Part 2 of the assembly video shows the gears being added. Gear 7 is closer to the back frame, so it gets added before gear 8. The outer hub of gear 7 nests inside the winding barrel on gear 8, but it should still fit.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for your quick reply. I just figured it out, for some reason i have a gear 5-54-12. The proper gear is 48 -12, which wasnt in my download. Downloaded the zip file again and the correct file is there. So hopefully i can complete the clock. So much detail, look forward to any new designs you might have as i like assembling things.
Can you let me know where to buy the pins?
There is plenty of information in the assembly guide. If you are asking about the arbors, it is just music wire available at many local hardware stores, eBay, amazon, etc.
I may ne late and you may not read this till im too flustered 😅, but i was gifted this already printed and was tols they went by your measurements. I found your website and love it all, these are amazing i love outting things like this together.
I may be over or underthing i am still at the first part. Where i have to put the alignment pins, but the instructions aren't clear on what rhose are as i broke a piece ans they are graciously peinting anothwr for mw but i figured the alignment pins were the 17 small pieces, yet they dont go in at all, any help for me to figure this out?
The alignment pin holes are supposed to be tight. Different printer tolerances make them slightly tight for some builders and super tight for others. The solution is to drill them to fit with a 3mm or 1/8" drill bit.
Thank you so much! Can't wait for this beauty to be complete!
Hi steve.
Great design by the way.
I need an information regarding the period of oscillation. Is this a one second clock?
I believe you are using a 8 and 60 tooth gear combination right?
Also whats the run time of this clock?
I wanna build this for a students project. So, i wanna clarify this before using your design. Thanks!
Thanks. A one second pendulum would have a length of almost 1 meter. This length looks good in a grandfather clock, but seems out of place in a small wall mounted clock. All of my clocks have shorter pendulums with periods of around 0.6 to 0.7 seconds. Many wooden gear clock designs have pendulums with a one second period.
Hi Steve, the clock is coming along nicely, so many thanks for making your files available on Minifactory. Is there a specific technical reason for using thinner diameter arbors for gears 2_54_12 and 3_54_12? I am having trouble sourcing 1.5mm metal rod, so would it be OK to drill out those holes and use 3mm arbors instead (same as the other arbors)? Thank you.
The smaller diameter has slightly less friction which helps contribute to longer runtimes. I have never tested 3mm arbors, but there are enough gear options to make up for the extra friction. It seems like the clock should still run.
My biggest concern is the amount of wall material left after drilling a 3mm hole. It should still be OK if everything was printed with at least 4 perimeters. It would be much safer if you could find some 2mm rod.
@@stevesclocks Thank you for your prompt response - I have found some 2mm rod, so I shall give that a go!
How do I get the brackets?
The metal ones are available at Home Depot or Lowes in the US. They can also be printed and it seems to work just as good. The STL is in the zip file.
Where do you get the Shaft Couplers from // Thanks
Amazon or eBay. Search for Dubro 597. Packs of 12 collars are currently around US$9. This would be enough for 2 clocks. A local RC hobby shop might have some in stock to pick up without waiting for shipping.
Hi Steve, I've bought and downloaded the files for printing the large Skeletal clock. I don't really like the 'fancy' hands included and want to use the plainer hands like those on the small clock. Can I do this or is there another file for 'plain' hands for the Skeletal Clock? Also great to see both clocks use similar parts, so I can use some of the leftovers from my small clock build. Fantastic designs, keep up your great work.
Hi Ross, The hands are fairly non-critical and can usually be copied between designs, except the length will be a little bit off. My latest "easy build" design has two different faces, roman numerals or simple numbers. It includes both styles of hands. Steve
@@stevesclocks Hi Steve, In am happy with the Roman numerals but just wanted the plain hands. I didn't want the 'easy build' and don't think I will outlay an extra US$10 just to get the plain hands. At some stage down the track might you be able to incorporate a set of plain hands into the Skeletal stl files set? Still a great design and I will start printing sometime next week.
@@rossevans1035 I added the spade hands from the easy build clock into the design that you purchased. The file is hands_spade_met.stl. It is ideal for metric sized arbors and will work after a small amount of filing for imperial arbors. It takes a few hours to pass the MMF software checks and you may need to look under "Object Parts" to download the individual file.
@@stevesclocks Thank you Steve. I will keep a lookout on MMF for the updates.
Hi Steve.... I recently joined the world of 3D printing and really want to build your beautiful clock. My question is where do you get the additional parts like the metal pins and screws needed. Thanks for your help.
The screws are from any hardware store in the US. Many builders outside the US have completed the clock without any reporting issues finding equivalent screws.
The metal pins are from a local hobby shop that sells K&S metals. Metric or imperial sizes are supported.
The other critical components include 5 ball bearings and 6 shaft collars that I order from the internet.
The remaining components are not critical and acceptable solutions can be found anywhere. Several weight shell sizes are provided depending on the density of fill material. You could use lead shot, BBs, or possibly even sand. The weight cord can be almost any cord that is strong and thin.
Hi. i downloaded today the pendulum clock with blue numbers. i don't understand how to print the colored numbers? do you print them separately?
My printer is "Creality Ender 3 V2 , and i don't know how to print in 2 colors. Thanks for your answer. Isidor
The color changes are made by manually switching filament when the print gets to a certain layer height. A pause can be added by the slicer and it will wait for you to switch colors. The positions to add the pauses are explained in the detailed assembly manual.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the 3mm short pins to fit into the holes of the bracket that holds the two back frame pieces together. The long pins between the top and the bottom fit fine, but the short pins just won't go in. How do I solve this issue?
The holes for the short pins were deliberately made tight. Different printers have different tolerances and they might be too tight. Drill them out with a 3mm drill bit. It might also work fine without the short alignment pins. There should be enough screws to hold the parts together properly.
My latest clock is a simpler design that only uses 3/4" wood screws to hold the entire clock together. The longest runtime option (32 days) uses 11 pounds of drive weight.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for the quick reply. After I took a break and calmed myself down ;) I realized that just drilling out the holes a little would solve the problem. I have successfully completed the back frame now. Thanks again.
@@GutsyGibbon I think some of the parts might be "slightly" over-designed in this clock. The weight shell is pulling on the pieces, but it could have been designed a bit simpler and it would hold together just fine. 😀
Hi Steve. What size printer capacity is needed to build this clock. I have an Ultimaker 2+ with 223 x 223 x 205 cm maximum build size and would like to undertake this project if my printer has a big enough capacity. Thanks.
Hi Mike. I design all of my clocks to fit a 220x220mm Ender 3 or 210x250mm Prusa MK3S build plate. Height is rarely an issue. Your machine should easily be capable. There is also a smaller option for something like a Prusa Mini. The lighter weight gears in the small clocks use less energy and the runtimes are longer. One of my clock designs runs for 32 days per wind, but only in the small version. The large version only gets half the runtime.
@@stevesclocks Thanks. Looks like I will buy one of the clocks.
Does this scale? Like, if I wanted to make it even larger on something like the CR-10? Or will that mess with the timing?
Timing is controlled by the pendulum length, so scaling everything except the pendulum will keep the timing the same. However, this design has built-in threads for screws and bearing pockets in a few key places. Those would need to be adjusted after scaling
I did scale the design to 3/4 size for smaller printers. The escapement was increased from 25 teeth to 27 teeth to allow a shorter pendulum that is more proportional to the overall clock. A larger clock might look better with a 24 tooth escapement and all other gearing unchanged. The drive weight might need to be adjusted since larger gears need more energy to accelerate with each tick.
So to answer your original question, yes, the clock will scale. I like to make a few minor optimizations for each size, but they might not be absolutely needed. Keep in mind that the clock is already quite large with an 8" dial and nearly 20" overall height.
@@stevesclocks Thanks for the info. I'm looking to do something rather large, and 8x20 is actually small for my space.
@@AdamZ5k It should be possible to scale the size and adjust a few parts. For example, scale X and Y by 50%, scale Z by 30%. The 1.5mm diameter arbors get upsized to 2.2mm. The 6x3/4" wood screws get upsized to 10x1" screws. Bearings could be kept the same size and print collars to go around them so they stay centered. Save the weight shell for last so you can determine how much weight is required. It might work with the large weight shell filled with lead shot instead of BBs. A few steps may require some experimentation. It seems to me that common sense solutions for most parts should allow the clock to be built.
I look forward to your progress if you decide to attempt it. I can give recommendations as you go, but may not be able to build one myself since I only have a Prusa MK3S.
@@AdamZ5k Did you end up doing it?
this isnt the same clock i printed buy i got here from a link provided... can anyone help me out here?
I have several different clock designs. Not all have assembly videos, but the steps are somewhat similar for each clock family. Every clock has a very detailed PDF manual that lists the step by step assembly process. The videos seem to help some people with a few of the steps, but they are only designed to compliment the PDF instructions. It would be very difficult to build these clocks using just the videos.
@@stevesclocks steve my wonderful amazing designer would there happen to be a hardware list? Couplers rids springs?
@@beefsoda1 everything needed is listed in the assembly notes pdf.
how to get this models for free ?????????
I offer these models for an incredibly low price compared to the amount of effort it takes to design and document them. Please consider purchasing them through the proper channels.