I only wish I had watched this before assembling the weight so I would know about the covering of the holes trick. The hardest part of the build for me was getting them out.(the bb's) I'm lacking common sense as I get older. Almost finished with my clock, thanks for sharing these videos, they are helpful.
I finally got to watch those videos, nice work again, I learned a few things... pendulum that swings for 10 minutes, mine never go that long! bigger pinions, small diameter arbors, bearings in strategic places, 3D printed optimized escapement, slip clutch for the hands, plenty of improvement to think about for my clocks. Great videos!, Thanks for sharing
Thanks Jacques. My clocks seem to have gotten better when my mindset shifted to take advantage of the characteristics of a 3D printer instead of simply porting an old style brass design. I often spend hours pondering how to make each part better when it is printed. It feels like it takes forever to design each clock. I tried many different pendulum supports before settling on the bearings. A suspension spring might be better, but they seem very delicate. 3D printed knife edges were not good at all. The ball bearing life test is still going strong at around 18 months. I am quite pleased with the functionality of the friction clutch. Previous designs were sensitive to getting just the right fit between parts. The spring has proven to be super reliable and the shaft collars allow it to be taken apart if needed. Steve
Nice Clock Project. I just finished this clock myself. I bought the plans, used 2 CR-6 SE printers to print the parts and had all the other parts laying around the shop. It runs just fine so far. In a few days I should have it dialed in. Right now it seams to be running a few ticks fast.
I believe that clocks should be optimized for the material they will be made from. You can do things on a 3D printer that are not easy to machine from other materials. Likewise, there are many traditional clock features that are not feasible to 3D print. The files in this design are specifically optimized for 3D printing. It only comes in STL format. I have a newer design that is intended to be converted into a wooden gear clock. It may look quite a bit different by the time it gets completed, hopefully around the end of the year.
Steve, I've purchased, downloaded and printed all the parts but this is my 1st experience with the 3D printer, in fact your design is what motivated me purchase one, and I was wondering if you had maybe a lessons learned type of info video or notes on printer settings. The problem I'm having is called "elephants foot" where teeth are wider on the first few layers of the gears. I am having to file them down and have made some adjustments to the slicer but the problem still persist (although its getting somewhat better). Did you ever have this problem? Any othe tips would be useful ie: the setting used specifially for the gears other than what you've described on page 9 of your instruction sheet. My printer has been running for a week 24 hours a day and the last part will be printed tonight! WOOHOO!
Getting good gears is mostly solved by getting the first layer height set properly. Elephant foot compensation helps a lot, but only for the first layer. There are plenty of TH-cam videos showing tips and tricks for this. Each printer and each slicer may be slightly different. The good news is that most of my clocks have a lot of backlash built into the gears so that a small amount of elephant foot will still allow the clock to function. A weight driven clock always applies pressure along one side of the gears. Extra backlash is completely harmless, whereas gears binding can stop the clock. I design in extra backlash to help make the clocks more reliable. I typically use an elephant foot compensation value of 0.08mm to 0.12mm.
@@stevesclocks Thanks Steve! I have successfully assembled the clock this morning and to my great surprise ran without much tweaking. All I can say is that it is amazing!! Great job on the design and instructional info that you've provided I truely love it...
Any size less than 1/4" will pack at the same density. Use the cheapest. BBs are usually easier to find, but you will need to print the larger weight shell.
@@passiondrone25 Lead shot for the small weight shell. A cheaper option is copper coated steel BBs www.amazon.com/Crosman-Copperhead-Copper-Coated-Bottle/dp/B000HKKY7M Two bottles of 6000 would be more than enough.
I only wish I had watched this before assembling the weight so I would know about the covering of the holes trick. The hardest part of the build for me was getting them out.(the bb's) I'm lacking common sense as I get older. Almost finished with my clock, thanks for sharing these videos, they are helpful.
I finally got to watch those videos, nice work again, I learned a few things... pendulum that swings for 10 minutes, mine never go that long! bigger pinions, small diameter arbors, bearings in strategic places, 3D printed optimized escapement, slip clutch for the hands, plenty of improvement to think about for my clocks.
Great videos!, Thanks for sharing
Thanks Jacques. My clocks seem to have gotten better when my mindset shifted to take advantage of the characteristics of a 3D printer instead of simply porting an old style brass design. I often spend hours pondering how to make each part better when it is printed. It feels like it takes forever to design each clock.
I tried many different pendulum supports before settling on the bearings. A suspension spring might be better, but they seem very delicate. 3D printed knife edges were not good at all. The ball bearing life test is still going strong at around 18 months.
I am quite pleased with the functionality of the friction clutch. Previous designs were sensitive to getting just the right fit between parts. The spring has proven to be super reliable and the shaft collars allow it to be taken apart if needed.
Steve
Nice Clock Project. I just finished this clock myself. I bought the plans, used 2 CR-6 SE printers to print the parts and had all the other parts laying around the shop. It runs just fine so far. In a few days I should have it dialed in. Right now it seams to be running a few ticks fast.
Amazing work
Simply wonderful!!!
Nice clock
Just bought your plans and printing has started / Looking forward to it's assembly once I have my box full of parts
Janet, where do you get the file for 3d printing, the manual, the weight cell and other parts. Tony Vallot
I currently do not have a 3d printer, I do have a CNC mill. What is the file types that would come with the Kit? I could use Step or DXF types.
I believe that clocks should be optimized for the material they will be made from. You can do things on a 3D printer that are not easy to machine from other materials. Likewise, there are many traditional clock features that are not feasible to 3D print.
The files in this design are specifically optimized for 3D printing. It only comes in STL format. I have a newer design that is intended to be converted into a wooden gear clock. It may look quite a bit different by the time it gets completed, hopefully around the end of the year.
Steve, I've purchased, downloaded and printed all the parts but this is my 1st experience with the 3D printer, in fact your design is what motivated me purchase one, and I was wondering if you had maybe a lessons learned type of info video or notes on printer settings. The problem I'm having is called "elephants foot" where teeth are wider on the first few layers of the gears. I am having to file them down and have made some adjustments to the slicer but the problem still persist (although its getting somewhat better). Did you ever have this problem? Any othe tips would be useful ie: the setting used specifially for the gears other than what you've described on page 9 of your instruction sheet. My printer has been running for a week 24 hours a day and the last part will be printed tonight! WOOHOO!
Getting good gears is mostly solved by getting the first layer height set properly. Elephant foot compensation helps a lot, but only for the first layer. There are plenty of TH-cam videos showing tips and tricks for this. Each printer and each slicer may be slightly different.
The good news is that most of my clocks have a lot of backlash built into the gears so that a small amount of elephant foot will still allow the clock to function. A weight driven clock always applies pressure along one side of the gears. Extra backlash is completely harmless, whereas gears binding can stop the clock. I design in extra backlash to help make the clocks more reliable.
I typically use an elephant foot compensation value of 0.08mm to 0.12mm.
@@stevesclocks Thanks Steve! I have successfully assembled the clock this morning and to my great surprise ran without much tweaking. All I can say is that it is amazing!! Great job on the design and instructional info that you've provided I truely love it...
@@dpaaron1 Thanks. I spend a lot of time trying to make the clocks easy to build.
Wow Looks Great in Purple..
Where do I get one of your pendulum clocks
You can buy the plans at www.myminifactory.com/users/StevePeterson and 3D print the components.
Is there a hardware list? Rods bearings springs sizes etc.. i would be most appreciated.
It is in the pdf.
Hi Jacques, how are you? This is Mars at MyMiniFactory I have messaged you via email two weeks ago:) Your designs are really amazing!
Good evening
I have a question, can you tell me the diameter of the lead balls?
Thanks in advance for your response
Any size less than 1/4" will pack at the same density. Use the cheapest. BBs are usually easier to find, but you will need to print the larger weight shell.
@@stevesclocks Thank you so much for your response! I'm going to order from Amazon
@@stevesclocks Are these marbles plastic or lead?
@@passiondrone25 Lead shot for the small weight shell. A cheaper option is copper coated steel BBs www.amazon.com/Crosman-Copperhead-Copper-Coated-Bottle/dp/B000HKKY7M Two bottles of 6000 would be more than enough.
@@stevesclocks
thank you so much
this is so cool!
Cool🔥😍👌👍