Like some others, I am struggling to find the love for this car. Maybe if it was properly de-pimped (don’t mind the wrap but the spoiler and interior has to go, along with sorry to say, Crouchy) and re-commissioned then yes. However, you seem to be in two minds about this car - you want to save it, you want it to be reliable family transport but can’t justify any expenditure? Not sure if that’s going to work. Best of luck anyway!
I think it is and was great. Pity that the pipes had to go really. The only bad thing about the interior is the drab grey dashboard that is a gooey mess. Perhaps some more of the green fur can be found to cover it properly to match the rest of the luscious interior.
@@xxrs2009 No, I'm serious. The car is a 'show' car and not really family everyday transport. It is a 'collector's item' that I fear is about to be converted into just another old banger.
I like the car but would remove the crap interior and exterior add-ons and just keep the colours. I don't understand his reasoning for not spending £90 to actually fix the sump when he claims "I love this car"
Hit the tin sump on my MG Montego back in the day, while on a trip to Midlothian. It actually hit the crank, which ground a hole in it from the inside. Had a small village garage up in Dumfriespull the dent out out and use a similar compound as you used to fill the hole. Worked fine for a couple of years or more. The thing is, the area has to be cleaned of any trace of oil, roughed up with course sandpaper to provide a key for the compound before application. Preparation is the key to success and oil-proof hole plugging.
Agree, cleaning and roughing up the surface is the key for good adhesion i might even have tried to deepen the crack as well. There's an old saying - failure to prepare is to prepair to fail (or wording to that effect).
Yes, I have to agree with Mr Naughton - degreasing and cleaning will allow JB Cling to cling to the metal, not the gunk. once all this is done, spray with brake cleaner, let dry and apply JB Weld immediately. Done it many time and it worked wonders for my wallet...You may also use JB Weld on those pesky screw holes in the body, at least until you decide to get them repaired properly (welding/grinding/body finishing/painting)
Was just thinking that myself, also if can see the crack/hole, chamfering the edges of it with file/grinder may help it adhere. Once used JB weld to fix a stripped out glow plug on a Mercedes Vito, (was a case of we might have to pull the head so worth a try first) so it can work really well.
As others have said adhesion is the key. I have an idea you need to clean that area around the damage and check for cracks which can leak especially if there is excess pressure due to breather issues. The oil mist around the oil cap suggests there may be. Good luck!
Hello Ian. I'm sorry to chime in with all the naysayers but that Multipla as it is is an eyesore, and once the novelty wears off it's going to really be a very difficult car to live with. Don't be worried about taking it back to stock, it's not a historically important car, it's not really culturally significant, it just appeared on a program with some footballers. Best of luck and I hope you don't get too miffed by the comments not enjoying the Multiplas gawdy pinkness
I think the sump will need tig welding. Might be worth trying mower repair shops as they sometimes have a tig welder for aluminium castings and they might be cheaper than garages.
I've had this done myself on castings but suggest the sump is taken off so that all damage can be found and treated. As to the Fiat "orphan" cars can be great value as they are cheap to buy and there are plenty of breakers parts around.
Would the low temp aluminium welding/brazing/soldering (well, it does one of the processes) rods been of use here? I have a few and have used one on a piece of aluminium as a practice. All I remember is that the aluminium suddenly goes from solid to melting very quickly. That and you have to put in a hell of a lot of heat.
You need to get the repair area immaculately clean, just slapping epoxy onto an oily sump will never work. Aluminium sumps can be welded btw. For the rear body damage get the holes welded, grind it flush then you can fill the area and just get that small panel wrapped again.
I have used a number if J B weld products, most recently, gas tank repair. That was successful. If it can prevent gasoline from leaking, then I think it would work well on that repair. You may have to remove the sump in order to really get that area free of oil. You also really need to clean a good area around the repair, and sand it. You don't want oil oozing under the repair while it is curing. However, if you do remove the sump it might be best to have it tig welded. That would likely be the best and strongest way of repairing it. Can't imagine the cost for that would be too much given the size of the needed repair.
A Very Hubnut repair. Really you should have dropped the sump and repaired it from the inside. That way all you need is a new gasket and you could test leak with water. Do it properly, do it once ! 😯
If it's anything like my Polo, it's a serious umpteen hour job to remove all the bits in the way of the sump, before you can even get to all the sump bolts (why do VW need 23 bolts on the sump?). I stupidly overtightened the plug in the Aluminium a few years ago, and now live with one drip a day (always comes up as an advisory on the MOT) - can't be bothered to do any more than that.
First time I have watched a video about this car. I can’t describe the joy I felt when you opened the door and I got to appreciate the green interior for the first time. Someone put so much work into producing this beauty 😁😁
That sump brought back a memory. In the late seventies, teenage me set about changing the oil on my new (to me) motorcycle and ham-fistedly set about removing the sump plug which doggedly resisted my attempts. Finally, with one heroic pull the recalcitrant plug loosened... then it tightened again.... and then it loosened... then tightened, loosened, and so on. It took a while for the light to go off in my head: yup, I had been turning the wrong way ! not only did I strip the thread in the aluminum sump, but I also managed to create a bunch on cracks radiating away from the plug opening. A thorough display of incompetence. As I ordered a new one, my dad left with the mangled sump. A couple of days later, he presented me with a fully welded and repaired sump ! dad could weld anything. 42 years later, I still own that bike and that repaired sump is still on it. Writing this reminded me how much I miss my dad.
I did a sump crack with jb weld type stuff . It's still leak free. after 4 years . But I did wire wheel the area surrounding perfectly clean and then scratched all the area with harsh sandpaper ..After draining oil of course.. As for the car personally I would remove all the glam save the bits for the next owner if they want them .. Just run it as a practical car .. I think it's had it's moment as Danny La Rues taxi ! Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
@@jamesfrench7299 I thought I was being tactful but then I realised I called it Danny La Rue's taxi ! I guess we're on the same page but I also think it's hideousnes probably gets views and likes . And as it's Hubnuts job he probably wants all the views and comments possible. Good or bad. 😉
Hi Ian, I used J B Weld on a hole in a MK3 Astra sump years ago, remove the sump, clean it inside and out, apply inside and out, it should work fine. Good luck!
De rust the holes fill with something and put some stickers over it. I think you will need to remove the sump and thoroughly degrees it before you try repairing it.
I would suggest hitting the exterior of the sump with a couple of cans of degreaser and a scotchbrite to give the jb something to adhere to properly . . . Good luck with sorting her !!
The JB weld would do the job, but you would need to take the sump off to do it. The trouble is that even though you emptied the sump before applying the JB Weld, the oil coating the inside of the sump would have continued to leach out of the hole slowly, it would then have prevented a proper bond between the JB Weld and the sump. To get it to work you would need to take the sump off, clean it out inside, and then use an aggressive degreaser to remove the oil from within the crack. Something like paint thinners - the type that totally evaporates without leaving a residue. Electrical contact cleaner will not do, because electrical contact cleaner is designed to leave a protective film over the contacts when it dries. That film will no doubt prevent proper adhesion of the epoxy. But, if your going to go to the trouble of removing the sump, it would be much better to take it down to an engineering shop and get them to quickly weld it, most engineering shops will have the gear to weld aluminium. But at least you have stemmed the flow for now.
See if your local welding friend (the one who did Elly) can weld your sump. Sump will need heating up with a gas torch or an HD heat gun to make the welding easier. Doesn't have to be pretty. TIG is good if he has it. Under the eye of an instructor I did it with an oxy torch. Ali was "red hot" while I fed in some alloy rod. If he is more or less "free" then that's good, otherwise a replacement sump and gasket for about £100 is not a bad deal to cure a "vehicle off road" scenario.
Or there are alloy "brazing" rods that can be used with a blowtorch ..... Lumiweld is a name I recall, but there are others. Can be DIY, and a lot cheaper than TIG welding.The key, though, is to get the sump absolutely clean/oil-free, which means taking it off.
For me this is a step too far, I could get onboard with a standard multipla but not this thing. However, I’m here watching and commenting so I suppose its doing its job in terms of engagement and the TH-cam algorithm. All the best Mr Hubnut
used JB weld on BMW oil pans more times than i care to count. drain the oil, put a shop vacuum in the the filler hole, brake clean the cracked area, sand the area with 80 grit , brake clean again , apply the JB weld, wet finger and smooth the JB weld.
A massive oil leak is not just an inconvenience Ian it can also be very damaging to the UKs waterways and creates slippery conditions on the roads. I have found a product from well regarded CRC that is patch which will conform to the curves on the sump and is cured with a UV lamp or torch. It will also cure in sunlight but that clearly will mean sump removal. As everyone has said the surface must be squeeky clean and might I suggest a final wipeover with Acetone.
Yeah, need a LOT of cleaning to remove the oil to make a good seal with the JB Weld, as it won't stick well if there's any oil contamination, JB is a pretty sturdy repair medium when given the right surface to bond onto, I've seen people saying that cracked engine blocks fixed with the stuff outlasted the cars they were fitted in, so worth trying again, just need to be more surgical with the de-oiling process, needs to be a much wider area cleaned of the oil, cos that stuff seeps about spoiling things...
Friend of mine tapped a new drain hole into a damaged area, then used a standard Plug with thread lock to permanently seal it . Worked until a service garage employee tried to use the sealed plug to drain the oil. Hubnut thy name is legend.
As others have commented, any epoxy based repair will only work where the surface to be bonded to needs to be scrupulously clean, (clinically clean is good) and completely oil/grease free. Using these repair methods are a perfectly good option, but will usually only save you money, not time, unless you're having a long wait for parts of course. And as always, the crazy world of automotive parts means that parts pricing regimes have absolutely no logic to them, so some parts aren't worth repairing. For this fix you might find Tanygroes is a good option given that you're going to have to remove the sump - but then the epoxy method would come into its own and the repair equally as tough as the aluminium.
Yes, they use it on cracked blocks that are unavailable anymore.but as you say it has to be well cleaned and degreased for it to work. Probably taking it off and giving it a grind first would give a long-lasting repair.
I had a similar problem with my ride on lawn mower , with an ally sump , so I drilled a hole in it(very carefully) and used two bolts the same as each other one to use as a tap for cutting the thread then screw the new bolt in where the damage was this then worked as a sump plug mk 2 and stopped the leak ,flushed out the sump and no more problem
I’m all for celebrating the average etc and like the majority of HN’s cars on the fleet - I just don’t get buying this particular example. I understand content is needed for the channel but a nicer, better Multipla would be a far better choice. At the end of the day it’s family transport and it needs to be reliable - I don’t understand not spending £90 on a replacement sump. The mind boggles sometimes
£90, get rid of all the spamming and there's a decent family car hiding under there. That JTD engine was fitted to loads of FIAT's and Alfas, but maybe the Multiplas sump was different due to limited fitting space?
Yes I'm kind of confused by this one. it was bought as family transport, but this particular example is.... err... I suppose the repair is ok as an experiment? but yes I don't get rejecting the replacement on cost alone.
As others have said, surface prep is important for good adhesion with epoxy putty. What would also help a good repair would be to take the sump off, clean it properly inside and out, and then use a good epoxy putty (Milliput has always been my preferred one) inside and out. Obviously welding is a better repair option if it's possible.
With regards to all the holes left on the rear quarters, why not tidy up the metal, then put one or two layers of vynil wrap over to cover them up. either match the wrap or use a contrasting shiney gold? Would keep moisture out 👍
I've used JB weld on an engine cover with oil under pressure with great success. You need to repair it on the INSIDE - get the sump off and put the JB weld on the inside. It rarely works painting it on the outside.
Exactly this happened to my 1999 Multi JTD back in the days. Check your front springs! The heavier front of the diesel combined with crappy springs a lot of manufacturers used at the time made BOTH of the front springs break almost at the same spot on both sides, making it lower without me really notice and a suddenly a KLONK to the sump one day.
This car will need to be 'de-pimped' before it can be moved on. There is only one man in the entire UK who would buy this vehicle and he already owns it.
@@emmajacobs5575 Can only assume they were after it for a TV car collection or something, not daily driving it. Which it wont be worth much for if its got most of the TV stuff stripped off
@@HubNut it must be really disheartening when you’re trying to sell something and bidders mess you around like that. I’ve only ever sold one car on eBay and luckily there was none of that.
I ran over an exhaust in my SD1 Vitesse, I thought Id got away with it but when I looked after getting home there was an expanding black lake beneath it
This happened to me with my Rover 100. Mainly because the engine bay and subframe was design for the A-Series engine. The K-Series is taller, and so has to be mounted lower. This is fine for normal driving on level roads. When you encounter a speed hump, especially ones edged with a row of brick, as you come down off it, combined with 100's soft hydrages suspension, the front dips and hits the sump drain plug. Kerb Scotty's rear passenger's side wheel hard. Maybe a bit wobbly. Going to swap them with the offset ones it came with.
For the sump best to remove it de-grease it then braze it with low temp alloy brazing rods. you can get them on ebay and amazon. I've repaired loads of alloy castings with them over the years. and that missing headrest looks to be identical to the ones used on the Fiat Doblo. Prob got a couple here from my old one if i haven't binned them and you cant find one.
Sorry but I don't get it, feels this car has been bought just for some "look at me I'm a bit barmy" content but it's ghastly and a waste of time and effort most of us would rather see on the fox, invacar or even the yugo
I would seriously consider looking at the roof spoiler if it was attached the same way as the side "exhaust pipes" were then there could be trouble. Rusty screws and holes going downward through the roof panel could mean water getting inside the roof and possibly the cars structure, meaning it is rusting from the inside out and by the time you notice the inner structure could be irreparable. That's what happens on old Land Rover bulkheads, by the first outward visible signs show the real damage can be done. Never a fan of the Multipla and that one certainly doesn't help, but if you want to save it check if any sealer under the roof spoiler. Personally I think it's trying to commit Hari Kari lol.
@@Ragnar8504 If so it would be easy to drill the holes bigger to take large bolts with larger washers and even a 6mm thick flat bar across from one side to the other to spread the load. I've got a 20ft length waiting for me at the fabricators just now. Will cut in two so that it can be chucked in the back of my 14ft trailer along with a big silage cutter that is getting new teeth and bushes fitted there. The flat isn't for a Multipla though, much as I'd like one to play with.
@@hedydd2 I'd be far more worried about water intrusion, so short of closing the holes permanently, the only option I can see would be rubber washers on the mounting screws.
I'll be honest, this is the only car you've ever bought that I've no interest in following. If it were a more standard multipla I'd enjoy watching but the bling... just doesn't feel hubnut to me.
Have to agree..i've never been critical of any of Ian's cars but this one is just awful ..if it was standard it would be different but this i have no interest in and just want it gone for something better to follow the channel with
The usual trick to loosen tight plugs is to tap it with a hammer. It usually comes loose quite easily after that. Use 'reasonable' force on the hammer, which isn't much energy at all.
I have used JB Weld products on a lot of wood and metal items. The most challenging application was the inlet nozzle of the top of the diesel tractor diesel filter. For this I used the Marine Weld product. This is still holding some years later. Cleaning metal prior to application is critical. I think your sump should have been pressure washed, degreased prior to trying the product. Since the sump has lots of oil stains, it is very difficult to see where the oil is originating. Perhaps the repair area, perhaps another. It will be difficult to weld the sump due to the oil absorbing into the surface over time. I hope you can find a used sump at some point. Dave.
I had a leak on the rear axle of my truck from a rust pinhole where a hanger mount was holding mud and water. I repaired that by cleaning it out and spraying it with brake cleaner then applying the epoxy used to seal holes in petrol tanks. It’s designed to endure oil and petrol once hardened and it seems to have worked - been on there for a couple of months now. I forget the brand (might not be available in UK, anyway) but it’s the type that comes as two ‘worms’ of putty that you knead together to activate and then apply. With your leak I would try and grind/drill the hole to get a clean surface and a better opening that your filler of choice can get into. And jack the car up so anything in the sump runs away from the hole.
Aluminium needs TIG welding. Best do the whole sump removal thing and high pressure cleaner. Seems to be a rocking horse part to find but depends if anyone in rural Wales is an experience TIG welder.
I was smacking the sump of my lowered Uno quite regularly, till I put higher profile tyres on it, it also has a cast ally sump which is dangerously thin after getting hit/scraped so many times. I tried several fixes, including JB weld, Araldite, 2-pack superglue with fine filler powder, none of which were successful... What I did eventually find worked was normal body filler, with an tad more hardener. Yes, its porous, but it quickly sealed itself. It also took a couple of speed hump hits after I did that, and it held up! So, thoroughly clean the whole area with brake cleaner, lightly key it with 40 grit, re-brake cleaner it, & whack some P38 on it (use the brake cleaner literally seconds before whacking the filler on, so no residual oil seeps out)! As far as the sidepipe screw holes are concerned, knock them in a few mm, use some of that P38 you used on the sump, & fill them, then, re-pink chrome wrap the rear wings, & try to use some aerosol cavity wax on the other side, once you`ve removed the boot side trims. The sticky dash parts? Brake cleaner or celly thinners works, scrub with old rags till theres no more stickyness, follow with a good polish. And remove the green fluff from the dash top Ian, the reflection on the screen was horrendous when you did the drive home video! You can always replace it with black fluff off ebay (its really cheap!).
"Green is the colour of your interior" I bet you was sick as a parrot when it started leaking oil. What an own goal purchase! Back of the net removed from the boot. So many football jokes, so little time. Seriously though, if that was the only Multipla available to buy, I would have looked at other manufacturers of MPVs from that era.
Sorry to say that I am one of those who changes the rear wiper religiously! I hate wipers that smear! Sorry to see that the oil sump repair did not work. I wonder if you can find it at a breakers yard (we in the US call them junk yard)? Everything will get sorted in due time!
I find JB weld to be brilliant but you would need to get the sump off it to make sure there is no trace of oil and maybe chamfer the crack a bit with an angle grinder. It works great as a glue too.
You may well have to remove the sump so you can then properly clean it up and inspect it. Then you may be able to plug the hole from both the inside and outside
I'd replace the clutch slave cylinder. As a part they're very cheap. And it may sort out the low bite point and clutch properly disengaging. These were often a failure on Fiat Bravo's/Brava's, so I'd guess it's similar. Also new oil sump pans range from £25-£35 from eBay? I wonder if it's worth sourcing one from there.
The sump can be welded, the question is will it warp when it's welded. It may be worth calling a scrap yard or two to see if they can supply a replacement sump.
This was a curse on the e28 BMW's, Motor magazine (back in the day) managed to smash the sump off their long term 528i and much was said about claiming on the insurance. I had an M535i that had, at some stage suffered the same fate, the sump looked like a TIG welded piece of art . Even one I sold on suffered sump to bump damage that wrote off the big 6. You should be able to have it TIG welded back up easily enough, it's more common than you'd think. My uncle once repaired the cracked head on his Fiat 124 special T using bridging fibre glass, it lasted for at least 3 years, where there's a will there's a bodge! 👍
As others have said, that sump will come up good if you pull it off and get it welded. Just need to make sure it's clean and oil free. The actual weld itself will probably be the work of minutes. You also have to ask has anyone made a bash plate to protect the sump? Seems like FIAT should have fitted one from the factory. Once that and the clutch slave are sorted, it should be a good car for a year or 3.
A hot air gun can be a godsend with reluctant bolts and the like, no naked flame to worry about but heats things up enough to usually free up stuck fixings
I think I would have to hold a certain position with my local circus to own this vehicle but it’s different. Sump takes me back to my old C90 field bike I had as a lad which decided to impale itself on a piece of half buried railway line. My solution was drain it, drop it on its side and go wild with the Davids isopon! It actually worked and was still good several years on after I had sold the engine to the old boys workmate who had a seized 90. 37yrs on I’d still probably carry out the same repair 😁
Better a cracked sump tray than failed crankshaft seals, both ends of which blew on my Peugeot after successive {as opposed to successful} services by a local franchised dealership, due to overfilling with oil. Haven't let the charlatans near the car since. Good luck with the pink goddess, and also with this car !
Had some local guys in a shed weld up my aluminium rocker cover on my fiat coupe, right on the corner where someone had cracked it and they did a bang up job
Speedhumps can indeed damage quite severely in some cases, even with relatively normal cars. I notice that where we live, not only are there too many of them but they vary so much in shape and size that it is clear that no accuracy is involved there; just make a cripplingly severe hump and that'll be that.
had a hole in a fiesta sump , it would have been a gear box out job, so we cleaned it up and used JB weld to glue a strip of annealed aluminium to it, it stopped the leak for good.
Problem with using switch cleaner is it also contains a lubricant, very often silicone based which will stop any thing from sticking properly if at all. I used to have a Touran and just around the corner is a narrow bit of road which has sunk on both side leaving a hump, I learnt after the first time over it that it was better to run one wheel on the verge so as not to knock the automatic gearbox sump on the hump, the hump is so high now that the tarmac has been scraped of the top, the council filled the hollows either side but it has sunk again. The best thing for the sump repair is to remove it and get it welded, I would offer to do it myself but I am in Norfolk. I have welded tons of aluminium over the years, I mean tons as at one time I made and repaired aluminum truck bodies, nothing hard about welding aluminium other than some of the aircraft grade alloys.
Try that stick epoxy you slice and knead in your hand. You can get a grey version specifically for repairing steel and aluminium. Once you've mixed it well, push it on with your thumb. It bonds to metal really well once it sets but be OCD about removing all traces of oil.
The area around the damage needs to be cleaned,dried and abraded to give the resin something to key to. I have used araldite on ally parts with some success.With the sump off you could apply whatever to both sides of the damage or find someone with a tig. If your pumping the clutch and stop the grind then probably you have air in the system.
My Multipla had the same crunchy gearshift and the 9nly thing that cured it was a new clutch. It also needed a new dual mass flywheel, but that depends on wear.
Re Betty - slipping between 1st and 2nd when cold or not engaging drive is a sure sign of low fluid on the BTR box. Also note that you'll need fluid specifically approved for that box too, BTR 91/95LE etc. Penrite classic list a compatible one in the UK but many of the multi-vehicle full synth fluids will work too so long as they have that approval. I doubt dedicated fluids like Castrol Transmax TQ95 are available there...
Have you ever used Milliput, I discovered this and use it with wood, metal, stone, models, cameras, everything, it goes as hard as iron, you can sand it and it is waterproof. I'd put money on it that it will work and it's not expensive.
I have managed to successfully bodge an alloy sump on a Mk4 Golf using the same product, but you do really need to be able to remove it from the car, thoroughly clean and scuff the area, and ideally pack it from both sides of the hole. Shame that didn't go successfully.
JB weld is great stuff , I guarantee it will work AND to prevent any future "sump damage" , how about fitting a set of "Carlos fandango" alloy wheels, these will raise the cars height, preventing a further catastrophe when you next "yump" a bridge and will increase cornering speeds , WIN WIN situation methinks... T5 Jerry to the rescue again 😂😂😂😂😂
Probably if the sump was off and upside down and maybe you made a shallow groove for the goo to sit in , and then the seeping oil inside the crack was not affected by gravity it might work .
Like some others, I am struggling to find the love for this car. Maybe if it was properly de-pimped (don’t mind the wrap but the spoiler and interior has to go, along with sorry to say, Crouchy) and re-commissioned then yes. However, you seem to be in two minds about this car - you want to save it, you want it to be reliable family transport but can’t justify any expenditure? Not sure if that’s going to work. Best of luck anyway!
I think it is and was great. Pity that the pipes had to go really. The only bad thing about the interior is the drab grey dashboard that is a gooey mess. Perhaps some more of the green fur can be found to cover it properly to match the rest of the luscious interior.
@@hedydd2 Trolling, right?
@@xxrs2009
No, I'm serious. The car is a 'show' car and not really family everyday transport. It is a 'collector's item' that I fear is about to be converted into just another old banger.
@@Codzilla71
Its a blinged up banger that may well turn out to be a turd. But aren’t they all.
I like the car but would remove the crap interior and exterior add-ons and just keep the colours. I don't understand his reasoning for not spending £90 to actually fix the sump when he claims "I love this car"
buyer's remorse 😂 I struggle with the Multipla - great, rare car, but this one assaults every viewing angle
The Multipla is too Hubnut even for Hubnut. Complete de-pimp or move it on. Its horrible.
Yeah I agree with you. I honestly can't be looking at it. It's god awful.
Scrap it asap
Get rid of it Ian, it's a shed - a very horrible ugly shed.
@@kruleworld Yeah, I remember that.
Hit the tin sump on my MG Montego back in the day, while on a trip to Midlothian. It actually hit the crank, which ground a hole in it from the inside. Had a small village garage up in Dumfriespull the dent out out and use a similar compound as you used to fill the hole. Worked fine for a couple of years or more. The thing is, the area has to be cleaned of any trace of oil, roughed up with course sandpaper to provide a key for the compound before application. Preparation is the key to success and oil-proof hole plugging.
Agree, cleaning and roughing up the surface is the key for good adhesion i might even have tried to deepen the crack as well. There's an old saying - failure to prepare is to prepair to fail (or wording to that effect).
Wire wheel and degrease throughly and apply JB weld as per instructions and this should be a good "temporary" repair. Prep is the key.
I agree, I’d say there was poor adhesion.
Yes, I have to agree with Mr Naughton - degreasing and cleaning will allow JB Cling to cling to the metal, not the gunk. once all this is done, spray with brake cleaner, let dry and apply JB Weld immediately. Done it many time and it worked wonders for my wallet...You may also use JB Weld on those pesky screw holes in the body, at least until you decide to get them repaired properly (welding/grinding/body finishing/painting)
Was just thinking that myself, also if can see the crack/hole, chamfering the edges of it with file/grinder may help it adhere.
Once used JB weld to fix a stripped out glow plug on a Mercedes Vito, (was a case of we might have to pull the head so worth a try first) so it can work really well.
As others have said adhesion is the key. I have an idea you need to clean that area around the damage and check for cracks which can leak especially if there is excess pressure due to breather issues. The oil mist around the oil cap suggests there may be. Good luck!
"Prep is the key" ... you're on the wrong channel for proper repairs tbh
Hello Ian. I'm sorry to chime in with all the naysayers but that Multipla as it is is an eyesore, and once the novelty wears off it's going to really be a very difficult car to live with. Don't be worried about taking it back to stock, it's not a historically important car, it's not really culturally significant, it just appeared on a program with some footballers. Best of luck and I hope you don't get too miffed by the comments not enjoying the Multiplas gawdy pinkness
I think the sump will need tig welding. Might be worth trying mower repair shops as they sometimes have a tig welder for aluminium castings and they might be cheaper than garages.
That's a great suggestion
Best thing to do
I've had this done myself on castings but suggest the sump is taken off so that all damage can be found and treated. As to the Fiat "orphan" cars can be great value as they are cheap to buy and there are plenty of breakers parts around.
Would the low temp aluminium welding/brazing/soldering (well, it does one of the processes) rods been of use here? I have a few and have used one on a piece of aluminium as a practice. All I remember is that the aluminium suddenly goes from solid to melting very quickly. That and you have to put in a hell of a lot of heat.
Low temp ally rods are exactly what was used in the end. Seems ok!
Peter Crouch is the best thing about this car. Somehow I can't see it being on the fleet for long.
Says everything about that car and Mr Crouch ;)
I wonder what goes first the car or the spurs manager
@@walthamwalker The car will be gone before Harry Kane, I hope!
Stuff Peter Crouch get a picture of his missus and stick on the back
@@bobwalker8907 Mrs Crouch's back door mmmmm
You need to get the repair area immaculately clean, just slapping epoxy onto an oily sump will never work. Aluminium sumps can be welded btw.
For the rear body damage get the holes welded, grind it flush then you can fill the area and just get that small panel wrapped again.
Take sump off, clean it inside and out. Then have a welder Tig the hole.
New gasket and back together.
Ian, your welcome.
Yep. Two hours preparation, two minutes welding, but it has to be done.
I think 🤔 the sump has sealant rather than a gasket.
@@johnchurch4705 It's a gasket, about £10.
I have used a number if J B weld products, most recently, gas tank repair. That was successful. If it can prevent gasoline from leaking, then I think it would work well on that repair. You may have to remove the sump in order to really get that area free of oil. You also really need to clean a good area around the repair, and sand it. You don't want oil oozing under the repair while it is curing. However, if you do remove the sump it might be best to have it tig welded. That would likely be the best and strongest way of repairing it. Can't imagine the cost for that would be too much given the size of the needed repair.
You are obviously very happy with this and it just shows how tastes differ as I think it’s absolutely appalling…ugh puts me of my corn flakes!!!
A Very Hubnut repair. Really you should have dropped the sump and repaired it from the inside.
That way all you need is a new gasket and you could test leak with water. Do it properly, do it once ! 😯
Yes that's what I thought, it's like putting a patch on a boat, you need to put it on the wet side not on the dry side.
If it's anything like my Polo, it's a serious umpteen hour job to remove all the bits in the way of the sump, before you can even get to all the sump bolts (why do VW need 23 bolts on the sump?). I stupidly overtightened the plug in the Aluminium a few years ago, and now live with one drip a day (always comes up as an advisory on the MOT) - can't be bothered to do any more than that.
First time I have watched a video about this car.
I can’t describe the joy I felt when you opened the door and I got to appreciate the green interior for the first time.
Someone put so much work into producing this beauty 😁😁
Used that weld stuff on a holed engine case on my old motorbike and it was brilliant! It lasted for the life of the bike which was a good 10 years!
The sellers certainly saw you coming with that one! 😄
That sump brought back a memory. In the late seventies, teenage me set about changing the oil on my new (to me) motorcycle and ham-fistedly set about removing the sump plug which doggedly resisted my attempts. Finally, with one heroic pull the recalcitrant plug loosened... then it tightened again.... and then it loosened... then tightened, loosened, and so on. It took a while for the light to go off in my head: yup, I had been turning the wrong way ! not only did I strip the thread in the aluminum sump, but I also managed to create a bunch on cracks radiating away from the plug opening. A thorough display of incompetence. As I ordered a new one, my dad left with the mangled sump. A couple of days later, he presented me with a fully welded and repaired sump ! dad could weld anything. 42 years later, I still own that bike and that repaired sump is still on it. Writing this reminded me how much I miss my dad.
I did a sump crack with jb weld type stuff . It's still leak free. after 4 years . But I did wire wheel the area surrounding perfectly clean and then scratched all the area with harsh sandpaper ..After draining oil of course..
As for the car personally I would remove all the glam save the bits for the next owner if they want them .. Just run it as a practical car ..
I think it's had it's moment as Danny La Rues taxi !
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
I say chuck em in the bin. They no longer serve any purpose.
@@jamesfrench7299
I thought I was being tactful but then I realised I called it Danny La Rue's taxi !
I guess we're on the same page but I also think it's hideousnes probably gets views and likes . And as it's Hubnuts job he probably wants all the views and comments possible. Good or bad.
😉
Hi Ian, I used J B Weld on a hole in a MK3 Astra sump years ago, remove the sump, clean it inside and out, apply inside and out, it should work fine. Good luck!
De rust the holes fill with something and put some stickers over it. I think you will need to remove the sump and thoroughly degrees it before you try repairing it.
Vinyl wrap it shiny pink like the main body
Maybe that £90 would be worth it, rather than 3 days labour doing a bodge
I would suggest hitting the exterior of the sump with a couple of cans of degreaser and a scotchbrite to give the jb something to adhere to properly . . . Good luck with sorting her !!
The JB weld would do the job, but you would need to take the sump off to do it. The trouble is that even though you emptied the sump before applying the JB Weld, the oil coating the inside of the sump would have continued to leach out of the hole slowly, it would then have prevented a proper bond between the JB Weld and the sump. To get it to work you would need to take the sump off, clean it out inside, and then use an aggressive degreaser to remove the oil from within the crack. Something like paint thinners - the type that totally evaporates without leaving a residue. Electrical contact cleaner will not do, because electrical contact cleaner is designed to leave a protective film over the contacts when it dries. That film will no doubt prevent proper adhesion of the epoxy. But, if your going to go to the trouble of removing the sump, it would be much better to take it down to an engineering shop and get them to quickly weld it, most engineering shops will have the gear to weld aluminium. But at least you have stemmed the flow for now.
Yes, this is the correct method. Did this on a Subaru gearbox, 45,000 miles later I sold it. 5 years later the buyer was still driving it...no leaks.
You CAN actually weld or braze aluminium. If the sump can be easily removed then that would have been my prefered choice.
See if your local welding friend (the one who did Elly) can weld your sump. Sump will need heating up with a gas torch or an HD heat gun to make the welding easier. Doesn't have to be pretty. TIG is good if he has it. Under the eye of an instructor I did it with an oxy torch. Ali was "red hot" while I fed in some alloy rod. If he is more or less "free" then that's good, otherwise a replacement sump and gasket for about £100 is not a bad deal to cure a "vehicle off road" scenario.
Went into the comments to find this.
It is definitely worth calling around to some welding shops. Aluminium, even cast, can be welded in most cases.
Or there are alloy "brazing" rods that can be used with a blowtorch ..... Lumiweld is a name I recall, but there are others. Can be DIY, and a lot cheaper than TIG welding.The key, though, is to get the sump absolutely clean/oil-free, which means taking it off.
For me this is a step too far, I could get onboard with a standard multipla but not this thing. However, I’m here watching and commenting so I suppose its doing its job in terms of engagement and the TH-cam algorithm. All the best Mr Hubnut
Mild unpimping.
The pipes immediately came to mind.
Amazed they lasted this long restricting the fuel filler.
Ian, just get rid of it. honestly its not worth the bother. I love Fiat's but genuinely you have enough projects
I'm just glad he is not gone to Will It Run Videos where they just get a car running and you never hear about the car again.
used JB weld on BMW oil pans more times than i care to count. drain the oil, put a shop vacuum in the the filler hole, brake clean the cracked area, sand the area with 80 grit , brake clean again , apply the JB weld, wet finger and smooth the JB weld.
A massive oil leak is not just an inconvenience Ian it can also be very damaging to the UKs waterways and creates slippery conditions on the roads. I have found a product from well regarded CRC that is patch which will conform to the curves on the sump and is cured with a UV lamp or torch. It will also cure in sunlight but that clearly will mean sump removal. As everyone has said the surface must be squeeky clean and might I suggest a final wipeover with Acetone.
Yeah, need a LOT of cleaning to remove the oil to make a good seal with the JB Weld, as it won't stick well if there's any oil contamination, JB is a pretty sturdy repair medium when given the right surface to bond onto, I've seen people saying that cracked engine blocks fixed with the stuff outlasted the cars they were fitted in, so worth trying again, just need to be more surgical with the de-oiling process, needs to be a much wider area cleaned of the oil, cos that stuff seeps about spoiling things...
Friend of mine tapped a new drain hole into a damaged area, then used a standard Plug with thread lock to permanently seal it . Worked until a service garage employee tried to use the sealed plug to drain the oil. Hubnut thy name is legend.
As others have commented, any epoxy based repair will only work where the surface to be bonded to needs to be scrupulously clean, (clinically clean is good) and completely oil/grease free.
Using these repair methods are a perfectly good option, but will usually only save you money, not time, unless you're having a long wait for parts of course. And as always, the crazy world of automotive parts means that parts pricing regimes have absolutely no logic to them, so some parts aren't worth repairing.
For this fix you might find Tanygroes is a good option given that you're going to have to remove the sump - but then the epoxy method would come into its own and the repair equally as tough as the aluminium.
Yes, they use it on cracked blocks that are unavailable anymore.but as you say it has to be well cleaned and degreased for it to work. Probably taking it off and giving it a grind first would give a long-lasting repair.
I had a similar problem with my ride on lawn mower , with an ally sump , so I drilled a hole in it(very carefully) and used two bolts the same as each other one to use as a tap for cutting the thread then screw the new bolt in where the damage was this then worked as a sump plug mk 2 and stopped the leak ,flushed out the sump and no more problem
I’m all for celebrating the average etc and like the majority of HN’s cars on the fleet - I just don’t get buying this particular example. I understand content is needed for the channel but a nicer, better Multipla would be a far better choice.
At the end of the day it’s family transport and it needs to be reliable - I don’t understand not spending £90 on a replacement sump. The mind boggles sometimes
£90, get rid of all the spamming and there's a decent family car hiding under there. That JTD engine was fitted to loads of FIAT's and Alfas, but maybe the Multiplas sump was different due to limited fitting space?
Either do I I know it's fair chunk but just do it !
I don't know how he doesn't just give up, with so much wrong....
Yes I'm kind of confused by this one. it was bought as family transport, but this particular example is.... err...
I suppose the repair is ok as an experiment? but yes I don't get rejecting the replacement on cost alone.
Bottom line - it was probably chosen to be pimped up for filming because it was a scrapper already.
I tell you what. That colour combination is really growing on me. I think a Lexus CL 500 in those colours would be great.
As others have said, surface prep is important for good adhesion with epoxy putty. What would also help a good repair would be to take the sump off, clean it properly inside and out, and then use a good epoxy putty (Milliput has always been my preferred one) inside and out.
Obviously welding is a better repair option if it's possible.
I personally wouldn't use any epoxy inside a sump, if it failed it could be a disaster.
I think the Multipla is an interesting car for the fleet. I know it was the only one for sale at the time but please take it back to stock.
With regards to all the holes left on the rear quarters, why not tidy up the metal, then put one or two layers of vynil wrap over to cover them up. either match the wrap or use a contrasting shiney gold? Would keep moisture out 👍
Or slap a couple of bigger Hub Nut stickers over the area 👍
I think a Mulipla would be a great car for you - but not this one. I'm afraid the crusher beckons...
Charity auction. Someone will buy it for the autographs
Autograph hunters have already had two chances to buy it...
@@HubNut You just couldn't afford what they were asking to take it away?
I've used JB weld on an engine cover with oil under pressure with great success. You need to repair it on the INSIDE - get the sump off and put the JB weld on the inside. It rarely works painting it on the outside.
Exactly this happened to my 1999 Multi JTD back in the days. Check your front springs! The heavier front of the diesel combined with crappy springs a lot of manufacturers used at the time made BOTH of the front springs break almost at the same spot on both sides, making it lower without me really notice and a suddenly a KLONK to the sump one day.
This car will need to be 'de-pimped' before it can be moved on. There is only one man in the entire UK who would buy this vehicle and he already owns it.
There were eight different bidders for it on eBay …
@@emmajacobs5575 Can only assume they were after it for a TV car collection or something, not daily driving it. Which it wont be worth much for if its got most of the TV stuff stripped off
Yes but NONE of the bidders actually wanted it. I got it because I message the chap after the ad ended.
@@HubNut Don't you think that green fur interior would make the Invacar awfully cosy? Think of the sound deadening properties as well...
@@HubNut it must be really disheartening when you’re trying to sell something and bidders mess you around like that. I’ve only ever sold one car on eBay and luckily there was none of that.
I ran over an exhaust in my SD1 Vitesse, I thought Id got away with it but when I looked after getting home there was an expanding black lake beneath it
This happened to me with my Rover 100. Mainly because the engine bay and subframe was design for the A-Series engine. The K-Series is taller, and so has to be mounted lower. This is fine for normal driving on level roads. When you encounter a speed hump, especially ones edged with a row of brick, as you come down off it, combined with 100's soft hydrages suspension, the front dips and hits the sump drain plug.
Kerb Scotty's rear passenger's side wheel hard. Maybe a bit wobbly. Going to swap them with the offset ones it came with.
I’ve had 2 aluminium sumps welded with no issues at all after. They needed thoroughly cleaning before welding. They were tig welded inside an out.
Clean the oil from the area of concern, once dry, cover in talcum powder and this will show you the source of your leak.
For the sump best to remove it de-grease it then braze it with low temp alloy brazing rods. you can get them on ebay and amazon. I've repaired loads of alloy castings with them over the years. and that missing headrest looks to be identical to the ones used on the Fiat Doblo. Prob got a couple here from my old one if i haven't binned them and you cant find one.
Should be zero problems welding aluminium, whether it's a crack or an actual hole. Just has to be very clean and done by someone with a clue.
Sorry but I don't get it, feels this car has been bought just for some "look at me I'm a bit barmy" content but it's ghastly and a waste of time and effort most of us would rather see on the fox, invacar or even the yugo
The Multipla has a very convenient shelf to put your service items when they are being unpacked 😁
Getting beyond a joke, sadly.
I would seriously consider looking at the roof spoiler if it was attached the same way as the side "exhaust pipes" were then there could be trouble. Rusty screws and holes going downward through the roof panel could mean water getting inside the roof and possibly the cars structure, meaning it is rusting from the inside out and by the time you notice the inner structure could be irreparable. That's what happens on old Land Rover bulkheads, by the first outward visible signs show the real damage can be done. Never a fan of the Multipla and that one certainly doesn't help, but if you want to save it check if any sealer under the roof spoiler. Personally I think it's trying to commit Hari Kari lol.
I'd say there's about a 99% chance they fitted the spoiler exactly the same way as the side pipes!
@@Ragnar8504
If so it would be easy to drill the holes bigger to take large bolts with larger washers and even a 6mm thick flat bar across from one side to the other to spread the load. I've got a 20ft length waiting for me at the fabricators just now. Will cut in two so that it can be chucked in the back of my 14ft trailer along with a big silage cutter that is getting new teeth and bushes fitted there. The flat isn't for a Multipla though, much as I'd like one to play with.
@@hedydd2 I'd be far more worried about water intrusion, so short of closing the holes permanently, the only option I can see would be rubber washers on the mounting screws.
I'll be honest, this is the only car you've ever bought that I've no interest in following. If it were a more standard multipla I'd enjoy watching but the bling... just doesn't feel hubnut to me.
Spot on, Mr H will lose viewers and subs with this car, very much a mistake for me.
Just let him be him.you start a channel then you can do you lol
Stop bloody moaning miserable gits
Have to agree..i've never been critical of any of Ian's cars but this one is just awful ..if it was standard it would be different but this i have no interest in and just want it gone for something better to follow the channel with
@@leeallen623 just be happy with what he does if not dont watch
The usual trick to loosen tight plugs is to tap it with a hammer. It usually comes loose quite easily after that. Use 'reasonable' force on the hammer, which isn't much energy at all.
You certainly have an interesting taste in motor vehicles.
Not sure I would have the time or interest. I prefer an easy life dull as it sounds 👍
I use the wooden sticks from lollipops to mix stuff like this. If you have deeper containers, wooden chop-sticks make perfect mixing sticks.
I have used JB Weld products on a lot of wood and metal items. The most challenging application was the inlet nozzle of the top of the diesel tractor diesel filter. For this I used the Marine Weld product. This is still holding some years later.
Cleaning metal prior to application is critical. I think your sump should have been pressure washed, degreased prior to trying the product. Since the sump has lots of oil stains, it is very difficult to see where the oil is originating. Perhaps the repair area, perhaps another.
It will be difficult to weld the sump due to the oil absorbing into the surface over time.
I hope you can find a used sump at some point.
Dave.
I had a leak on the rear axle of my truck from a rust pinhole where a hanger mount was holding mud and water. I repaired that by cleaning it out and spraying it with brake cleaner then applying the epoxy used to seal holes in petrol tanks. It’s designed to endure oil and petrol once hardened and it seems to have worked - been on there for a couple of months now. I forget the brand (might not be available in UK, anyway) but it’s the type that comes as two ‘worms’ of putty that you knead together to activate and then apply. With your leak I would try and grind/drill the hole to get a clean surface and a better opening that your filler of choice can get into. And jack the car up so anything in the sump runs away from the hole.
Aluminium needs TIG welding. Best do the whole sump removal thing and high pressure cleaner. Seems to be a rocking horse part to find but depends if anyone in rural Wales is an experience TIG welder.
Ah well, the leek is the emblem of Wales.
I patched a steel sump on my Mk2 Mondeo with metal epoxy. Was meant to be temporary… lasted for years until the car was scrapped. It’s good stuff.
I used the Araldite version of this stuff for exhaust manifold repairs on a 1956 Ford Fairlane Y block and an '88 Volvo 740. Worked just fine!
I was smacking the sump of my lowered Uno quite regularly, till I put higher profile tyres on it, it also has a cast ally sump which is dangerously thin after getting hit/scraped so many times. I tried several fixes, including JB weld, Araldite, 2-pack superglue with fine filler powder, none of which were successful... What I did eventually find worked was normal body filler, with an tad more hardener. Yes, its porous, but it quickly sealed itself. It also took a couple of speed hump hits after I did that, and it held up! So, thoroughly clean the whole area with brake cleaner, lightly key it with 40 grit, re-brake cleaner it, & whack some P38 on it (use the brake cleaner literally seconds before whacking the filler on, so no residual oil seeps out)!
As far as the sidepipe screw holes are concerned, knock them in a few mm, use some of that P38 you used on the sump, & fill them, then, re-pink chrome wrap the rear wings, & try to use some aerosol cavity wax on the other side, once you`ve removed the boot side trims.
The sticky dash parts? Brake cleaner or celly thinners works, scrub with old rags till theres no more stickyness, follow with a good polish.
And remove the green fluff from the dash top Ian, the reflection on the screen was horrendous when you did the drive home video! You can always replace it with black fluff off ebay (its really cheap!).
"Green is the colour of your interior" I bet you was sick as a parrot when it started leaking oil. What an own goal purchase! Back of the net removed from the boot. So many football jokes, so little time. Seriously though, if that was the only Multipla available to buy, I would have looked at other manufacturers of MPVs from that era.
If it comes to it you can get that sump TIG welded because you can TIG weld aluminium. Maybe a rivnut for the missing captive nut?
Sorry to say that I am one of those who changes the rear wiper religiously! I hate wipers that smear!
Sorry to see that the oil sump repair did not work. I wonder if you can find it at a breakers yard (we in the US call them junk yard)?
Everything will get sorted in due time!
I find JB weld to be brilliant but you would need to get the sump off it to make sure there is no trace of oil and maybe chamfer the crack a bit with an angle grinder. It works great as a glue too.
You may well have to remove the sump so you can then properly clean it up and inspect it. Then you may be able to plug the hole from both the inside and outside
I'd replace the clutch slave cylinder. As a part they're very cheap. And it may sort out the low bite point and clutch properly disengaging. These were often a failure on Fiat Bravo's/Brava's, so I'd guess it's similar.
Also new oil sump pans range from £25-£35 from eBay? I wonder if it's worth sourcing one from there.
Sumps for the 1.9 diesel have been NLA for many years sadly
Agree on the Fiat clutch slave cylinders, very short lived especially when the car has been stood for a while on old fluid.... the seals easily fail.
Yeah, good call. Pedal needs a fair bit of pumping to get the clutch to disengage at all if it's been parked up for a bit.
The sump can be welded, the question is will it warp when it's welded. It may be worth calling a scrap yard or two to see if they can supply a replacement sump.
This was a curse on the e28 BMW's, Motor magazine (back in the day) managed to smash the sump off their long term 528i and much was said about claiming on the insurance. I had an M535i that had, at some stage suffered the same fate, the sump looked like a TIG welded piece of art . Even one I sold on suffered sump to bump damage that wrote off the big 6.
You should be able to have it TIG welded back up easily enough, it's more common than you'd think.
My uncle once repaired the cracked head on his Fiat 124 special T using bridging fibre glass, it lasted for at least 3 years, where there's a will there's a bodge! 👍
Was also the curse of the Alfa 156
As others have said, that sump will come up good if you pull it off and get it welded. Just need to make sure it's clean and oil free. The actual weld itself will probably be the work of minutes. You also have to ask has anyone made a bash plate to protect the sump? Seems like FIAT should have fitted one from the factory. Once that and the clutch slave are sorted, it should be a good car for a year or 3.
I'm sorry but that 2nd half was hilarious, the voice over and silent auction was brilliant
Cheered me up on a cold,wet Friday morning
A hot air gun can be a godsend with reluctant bolts and the like, no naked flame to worry about but heats things up enough to usually free up stuck fixings
It is good stuff I can vouch for it I’ve done radiators and sumps with this
I think I would have to hold a certain position with my local circus to own this vehicle but it’s different. Sump takes me back to my old C90 field bike I had as a lad which decided to impale itself on a piece of half buried railway line. My solution was drain it, drop it on its side and go wild with the Davids isopon! It actually worked and was still good several years on after I had sold the engine to the old boys workmate who had a seized 90. 37yrs on I’d still probably carry out the same repair 😁
Best solution would be - remove sump-- clean sump - use aluminium brazing wire. Job done :)
Better a cracked sump tray than failed crankshaft seals, both ends of which blew on my Peugeot after successive {as opposed to successful} services by a local franchised dealership, due to overfilling with oil. Haven't let the charlatans near the car since. Good luck with the pink goddess, and also with this car !
I think you can get the crack/ hole welded. TIG, MIG, Plasma welder
So, yes its got a major oil leak and a slow puncture, but those exhaust stacks are 'killing it!'
Had some local guys in a shed weld up my aluminium rocker cover on my fiat coupe, right on the corner where someone had cracked it and they did a bang up job
Might be worth taking the sump off clean it inside and out then jb weld in and out and a new sump gasket
Speedhumps can indeed damage quite severely in some cases, even with relatively normal cars. I notice that where we live, not only are there too many of them but they vary so much in shape and size that it is clear that no accuracy is involved there; just make a cripplingly severe hump and that'll be that.
had a hole in a fiesta sump , it would have been a gear box out job, so we cleaned it up and used JB weld to glue a strip of annealed aluminium to it, it stopped the leak for good.
Problem with using switch cleaner is it also contains a lubricant, very often silicone based which will stop any thing from sticking properly if at all. I used to have a Touran and just around the corner is a narrow bit of road which has sunk on both side leaving a hump, I learnt after the first time over it that it was better to run one wheel on the verge so as not to knock the automatic gearbox sump on the hump, the hump is so high now that the tarmac has been scraped of the top, the council filled the hollows either side but it has sunk again. The best thing for the sump repair is to remove it and get it welded, I would offer to do it myself but I am in Norfolk. I have welded tons of aluminium over the years, I mean tons as at one time I made and repaired aluminum truck bodies, nothing hard about welding aluminium other than some of the aircraft grade alloys.
Try that stick epoxy you slice and knead in your hand. You can get a grey version specifically for repairing steel and aluminium. Once you've mixed it well, push it on with your thumb. It bonds to metal really well once it sets but be OCD about removing all traces of oil.
The area around the damage needs to be cleaned,dried and abraded to give the resin something to key to. I have used araldite on ally parts with some success.With the sump off you could apply whatever to both sides of the damage or find someone with a tig. If your pumping the clutch and stop the grind then probably you have air in the system.
If you want to do it cheaply, try the low temp brazing rods that get advertised on facebook.
Use a blow torch and give it a whirl.
Nice to see you bought works trousers that match the Multipla's interior.
My Multipla had the same crunchy gearshift and the 9nly thing that cured it was a new clutch. It also needed a new dual mass flywheel, but that depends on wear.
Re Betty - slipping between 1st and 2nd when cold or not engaging drive is a sure sign of low fluid on the BTR box. Also note that you'll need fluid specifically approved for that box too, BTR 91/95LE etc. Penrite classic list a compatible one in the UK but many of the multi-vehicle full synth fluids will work too so long as they have that approval. I doubt dedicated fluids like Castrol Transmax TQ95 are available there...
Have you ever used Milliput, I discovered this and use it with wood, metal, stone, models, cameras, everything, it goes as hard as iron, you can sand it and it is waterproof. I'd put money on it that it will work and it's not expensive.
'Oh Danny boy, the pipes, the pipes are calling'
Calling? They're appalling!
I have managed to successfully bodge an alloy sump on a Mk4 Golf using the same product, but you do really need to be able to remove it from the car, thoroughly clean and scuff the area, and ideally pack it from both sides of the hole. Shame that didn't go successfully.
JB weld is great stuff , I guarantee it will work AND to prevent any future "sump damage" , how about fitting a set of "Carlos fandango" alloy wheels, these will raise the cars height, preventing a further catastrophe when you next "yump" a bridge and will increase cornering speeds , WIN WIN situation methinks... T5 Jerry to the rescue again 😂😂😂😂😂
You are not alone, I do replace my rear wiper regularly and use it regularly too
I had good result with similar problems using "Repair Putty"... but for 90£ I would have bought a new sump immediately...
Probably if the sump was off and upside down and maybe you made a shallow groove for the goo to sit in , and then the seeping oil inside the crack was not affected by gravity it might work .
Hubnut the mime artist
The channel that keeps on giving 🤣