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Good to see someone who understands this problem. I worked in the damp proofing industry for around 10 years in in the 80's, and about a third of the calls I got to supposed 'rising damp' were actually condensation. One point I would make is this: the (NET) cost of running a dehumidifier really needs to take into account the heat released by the machine itself. This is the latent heat contained in the moisture. The heat (energy) that was used to evaporate the water in the first place is still there - contained in the moist air. The dehumidifier releases it. Therefore your central heating thermostat will stop calling for heat a little sooner than it would otherwise. Obviously no machine is 100% efficient, so it can't cancel out the electricity cost altogether. Ebac are a British made machine and that was my first choice, about five years ago. Sadly, the extraction rate plummeted after a year or so, despite buying new (expensive) filters. So we replaced it with a 10 litre Meaco model - and that has been great: still extracts a good 5 lires a night from late October onwards. It's rated at 150w but when I checked it out, actually uses only 122 w. It works out at just over a Kwh per night, which at the present cost, is just over 33p + vat.
How are you collecting 5 litres a night?? :O the humidity in my flat ranges between 55-80%, and even after drying laundry for 5/6 hours, I don't even half fill the tank of my Meaco (2 or 3 litre tank)
2 other very simple tips that cost nothing and actually save a little money, put a lid on any pans when cooking, this makes a big difference to the amount of vapour released but also means you don't require as much energy to heat the pan. Secondly, keep the lid of the loo down. This avoids the evaporation of the water from the toilet. A couple of final bonus tips, dry up any washing up rather than leaving it on the draining board to air dry, as all that happens in that case is the moisture goes up into the air. Then put the damp cloth in the bathroom/toilet room to air dry where the moist air can be extracted by the extractor fan. Then finally, hang up any wet towels in the bathroom rather than leaving them in bedrooms etc in a heap on the floor. Again the moisture can then escape via the air vent. It is amazing how much these things plus all the tips in the video, especially the Karcher after a shower makes. So much of damp and mould issues is down to lifestyle issues rather than anything else. Taking these simple measures can save you a lot of time and money in the long run as it avoids damage to your property.
You can defrost food fast in plastic bags in a bowl of water with a slow running cold tap running into it to keep the water warmer than freezing, water being a good conductor speeds up defrosting ten times over.
The internet needs more people like you Charlie! - Once again my mind has just been blown. Thanks for taking the time to make this, and sharing your knowledge, especially as saving £££ is more important than ever!
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
I have a compressor dehumidifier and it's amazing. The difference before and after getting it is immediately noticeable. The amount of water it takes out of the air is honestly amazing. I also keep a humidity meter in a prominent place so I can check when I need to run it. As others have mentioned it also gives off some heat too. So it's not wasting energy in winter. It comes in useful.
over a year ago i began sleeping in a room with fresh outside air being pumped in, filtered and hydrated.... (essentially a swap cooler/evaporative cooler no more dry itchy skin, no more waking up with carpet mouth. i sleep better, longer and wake feeling leagues better. mould only forms in stagnant wet air. removing all moisture from the air is detramental to human health
Yeah dry clothes in room with door shut windows open that gets sun, probably with heating off as well. Houses especially mattresses need airing daytime especially rooms your not using daytime.
@SmilerKyle. I live in a rented property and the house is always cold , the odd thing is in the summer it’s like a greenhouse despite having all the windows open . None of the doors leading outside are fitted correctly and neither are the double glazed windows . I asked the property owner to sort these issues out and was told to open all windows and doors with no heating . It was warmer outside in the winter than indoors . Sucks
@@marklittler784 I always pull back the sheets/ blankets on the bed after getting up, and leave the bed air for 20-30 minutes while starting breakfast. Then I make the bed without trapping in the moisture.
Thanks for the information. Since the majority of energy wasted by a dehumidifier will be in the form of heat it's perhaps more efficient than it first seems because you are also slightly heating your space and offsetting heating costs by that small fraction (assuming your heating is on at the time).
A dehumidifier actually does even better than that, as when water vapour condenses on a surface it warms it slightly via latent heat (opposite process of when water evaporates off our skin, cooling it). Therefore a 200w dehumidifier will actually provide around 250w of heating to the space!
@@Ralphius86 I was immediately thinking that didn’t make sense. But I think you’re right providing you empty the water tank of cold water and remove it from the room down the sink you get all of the energy that was in that water vapour and put that into the air inside the room. It will come out the condenser side of the compressor dehumidifier.
Yes exactly, the air from my condensing dehumidifier is 1°C warmer than the surrounding air. It takes a long time, but it does increase the room temperature noticeably (while drying my clothes).
A lot of people do not realise this when they talk about wasted energy in things like plug adapters and lights dotted around the house. In the Summer when your heating is off, yes, all the heat from these things is a complete waste of energy but, in the Winter, that is distributed heating and if you have a thermostat system (which everyone should), it can mean less heat needs to be provided by your main heating system. Sure, gas (or whatever better heating system you may have) is cheaper than electricity for heating but it is still useful and is not usually a huge amount. Also, any heat source sets up convection currents which will help air to move around e.g. adapters in sockets in the corners of rooms.
One thing I do that I don't think anyone else has mentioned in the comments, is to use a flannel in the shower to wash down & then at the end of the shower before getting out, squeeze out the flannel & use it to wipe off the majority of water left in your hair & on your skin wringing out the flannel as it becomes laden with water, it usually takes 3-4 wrings & takes 20-30 seconds to complete & you will be amazed at how much water this removes so that when you finish drying with a towel, the towel will be very much drier as it has probably had to remove only 20-25% off the moisture it would have had to do. Result, towel dry quicker & much less water vapor is released into the bathroom as towel dries. Yes, it's a little more time & effort, but worth it, buy a flannel from £1- £5 give it a try & it has cleaning benefits compared to just soaping down your body using your hands with a bar of soap or shower gel.
Brilliant article, thank you. I am old enough to have lived in a house with no central heating and just a coal fire in the sitting room, the fire drew air in from outside via our rattley, ill-fitting doors and windows ( insulation - none, draught-proof strip made of foam sponge around the door or a copper strip). Frozen leaf patterns on the inside of the windows and getting dressed under the bed covers. Can’t believe we’re going back to those days. We have just used Wallrock thermal insulation fabric internally on two outside walls, what a difference, not too expensive a diy job either. Perhaps you should ask Liz Truss to put this out as a public information film!
Thanks Jane. Yes I also would get dressed under the bed sheets for the same reason, and water frozen in the tooth brush mug in the morning! You're right, insulation makes a massive difference. I insulated the internal walls upstairs and it's transformed the ability to heat each room.
I was born in communism growing up in a ramshackle house in the 80's with exactly the same: frozen toilets/pipes and windows frozen over (we used to call them 'ice flowers', a coal oven that needed to be set up in the morning and washing with just a hot water cloth... Today I actually benefit from learning as a kid how to maximise my (limited) resources, being practical and appreciate all the luxuries of the Western world.
Quality video Charlie. This the best and most concise explanation for a problem that has haunted us for years. We're now building a modern well-insulated home, which we're doing with a fabric first approach, so will be ensuring that we get the fundamentals right, but for many people this isn't an option. We are now entering the time of year where I have to go over the principles of condensation AGAIN with my Daughter, we do it every year. She will learn a lot when I force her to watch this video, maybe she needs to hear it from someone else.
Great video. We bought a Meaco dehumidifier - great purchase. Aswell as general dehumidifying it’s great for clothes drying - much better than the heated airers. Laundry mode aims to get to 35% and runs for six hours. Its maximum consumption is 240 watts so even at the new 34p per kw/h maximum rate it’s just over 8p per hour.
I've been using a floor standing dehumidifier to dry clothes but what I also do is run a large desk fan on the floor pointing at the washing, with the washing hung over an airer edge ways on relative to the fan you get a massive amount of airflow over the washing and it dries a lot quicker. The dehumidifier can then do it's job of drying the air.
@@djjluvv sounds like we definitely need it. Our new loft room is perfect but rest of the house gets cold and damp so easily. Sadly Argos no longer have them on offer, lucky to get them for such less than £300 but worth the money! Thanks for your reply
After watching many of your videos over the past few weeks I decided to buy an Ebac 4000 series Dehumidifier. I have tried other brands in the past and none of them have worked. However, the Ebac is absolutely the answer to all of our condensation problems. Our bungalow has been on average 70% relative humidity so far this autumn/winter season. Same every year. It makes the place feel damp and cold all the time. The windows are constantly dripping wet with condensation in the morning and the bathroom ceiling sprouts mould (or mold depending on your preferred spelling). Since using the Ebac the RH is a constant 49% and absolutely no more wet windows or mould growth anywhere. Best of all, Ebac is a British company and all of their appliances are made in Britain. This has 100% cured our problem. So glad I found your channel, otherwise I would never have known about Ebac. The atmosphere in the house just feels so much healthier. No more horrible cold, damp smell. Keep up the good work 👍
We do everything mentioned here. Even have the window vac to do all the tiles. Amazing how much water that collects. The Ultimate winner for us, is the 2x dehumidifiers with cloths drying mode which we dont actually use! Our desicant type dehuhmidifiers also warm up the air and reduces the need for main heating. Thumbs up from us, to Charlie. We should also point out that we have 2x Pureair units that burn every virus, pollen, germ and dust particle which only use 50 watts per hour and add warmth to the rooms. Fruit on the table is definately lasting "many weeks" longer which is supposed to be one of the plus points for these units. We agree with that point.
Watched this and went straight out and bought a dehumidifier for my daughter for her home. Great advice here, especially as people won't be heating their homes up as much due to the steep energy price increases.
What a brilliant video! We have started to implement changes to combat mould especially after we bought a new bed. Our old divan had lots of mould under it which we had been sleeping on for yonks🙈 we couldn’t smell it even until we started to strip it down when taking it out. We were very concerned…Our new bed now has room underneath it so air can move about-resisting the urge to store anything under it too! A wool duvet was a game changer to keep warm at night and now throw duvet off the bed in the morning to let it air for a few hours, gets rid of any trapped moisture in the bed. The urge to not make the bed immediately is hard to shake off lol. Hope it helps someone else sharing our story. Thanks Charlie! Squigee is on board and hydrometer purchased…i love it when a plan comes together 💪
Thanks so much for that. Yes you've solved the bed problem with the ventilation, and as you say, with a plan in place you should keep any damp problems in check going forward 👌👊
In a new build apartment we had once drying outside on the balcony was “forbidden”. They installed tumble driers but they can’t be used for everything as clothes are damaged so people would dry inside and as you said they were air tight and thus, masses of condensation and so many people had huge damp problems and entire flats needed to be re plastered. Badly built to be as warm as possible and no trickle vents But people also didn’t realise the need to ventilate either.
Great video as usual. Only issue i have is opening windows in winter is counter productive. Our climate in winter offers an external air with 80-90% humidity. I find opening windows in winter makes things worse.
Excellent piece as usual Charlie. Just sat down for a tea break from the ongoing renovations of my cottage, where damp is an issue, have reduced the problem significantly with windows ajar especially when showering. My dehumidifier is a little hungry on energy but will have to use it. My biggest issue is to get my wife to comply with the rules😂 Many thanks👍
Thanks James. 👊 You have that problem as well. I've told her so many times not to fill the kettle to the top when we're just making two mugs I bought a 2 mug 600w kettle on eBay the other day and it will be replacing that one you see in the vid. Plus I have a silent rebellion on the shower window point. I think they open it when they're done, to placate me! Great work on the house. Sounds like you're getting there!
@@janetwilliams2835 i have to monitor the lights on in the house as my hubby thinks we live in Blackpool. The times I've come home to a house with all the lights on and no one in. Kettle too, filled almost to the top for 1 drink.grrrrr I definately need to get 1 of those kettles.
I haven't watched the video yet but each year Charlie always takes on the moisture. Can't wait to watch it, I wonder x years on if he's still asking his family to open the window after using the bathroom and them telling him no lol
Your "Environment" advice was a forehead-slap-game-changer realisation for me and my sopping wet condensation window problem in my old stone cottage ...makes so much sence, once pointed out to you 🙄 ...thank you 🙏🏻😁
It’s feels quite counterintuitive to open windows makes it easier to heat your home. But what you’ve gone through makes sense, thanks. Now just have to get the mrs and kids on side!
Dehumidifiers are a good piece of kit if you use them right. In a heavily insulated home the air is fairly stagnant, so if you add a fan to the mix, it helps push the moist air around your home and give it a chance to get caught in your dehumidifier. I have experimented and found that my dehumidifer is more than twice as effective when I use a fan. I use a Dyson type fan where there airflow isn't that noticeable, just enough to get the air moving.
Yes a small weak fan that draw air in from a small radius around the unit. If you have a larger fan to push the air around the room your dehumidifier will have access to much more untreated air and collection will be vastly improved. Also if you use a fan it pushes moisture off surfaces into the air for treatment.
In my experience I'm usually struggling to keep the air moisture high enough to be comfortable during winter. Literally, running a humidifier 24/7 throughout the winter months. As someone with bad sinuses, air moisture levels makes a massive difference to me.
@@dennykeaton9701 The UK has a maritime climate, it is humid all year round. I'm guessing Ohio has a continental climate. Nantucket or Orlando would probably be more like us
We run a couple of dessiccant type dehumidifiers in our house during the Winter months, one upstairs, the other downstairs, they have the benefit of adding a little background heat too
Winter in Canada when it is well blow freezing the air gets too dry. Love hanging the laundry to raise humidity. 🇨🇦. Try ceiling fans as well. Lived in the tropics. There we had mould issues
I have the same Ikea squeegee x 3! It gives me such a sense of satisfaction to see all the water go down the drain instead of into the air. Plus, I have definitely gotten much quicker with the squeegee since starting with it. I wonder if a visual of how much air can hold at different temperatures would be helpful.
… Dry your laundry in your bathroom with the door almost closed (due to the cable from dehumidifier) with dehumidifier on. It will dry quickly the clothes and the bathroom (around 2h depending on type of clothes, thicker might need longer time to dry up to 4h depending on the bathroom size). Very good video about condensation and dump …
I installed a PIV with heater (NuAire) 2 years ago and it has made a massive difference to condensation levels in my home which previously had windows running with condensation, yes it does chill the landing area a little, but the advantages far outweigh this.
@@GrandslamTim1 we’ve done the same and it’s completely eradicated the chronic damp/condensation problems we had over winter. We don’t need to run it in summer and it’s not that expensive to run.
Great video Charlie iv'e used same things as you with great results even with 2ft wide walls . Went one step further and took render off outside of house and lime pointed.👍👍🍺🍺
totally agree about the PIV system. We installed a Nuaire a few years ago and it cleared up the black ceiling mould within a few days. Here is something that is key to them working efficiently. Make sure that if you have cavity wall insulation that it hasn't been filled up too much so that it blocks air ingress through the eaves. A benefit of a PIV system is that your heating will warm quicker because its not having to heat damp air. I find anything under 70% humidity is fine. Regarding the cold from the PIV, yes it is, the heating element isn't a traditional heater, it doesn't make much difference. Another tip, put your clothes on an airer and put a dehumidifier next to it. They'll dry quckly
Had a PIV system installed about a week ago. What a difference ...amazing. And I didn't even install it in my hallway....it's in my kitchen. Condensation pretty much disappeared over about 3 days and I've barely noticed the house being colder.
Ah, brilliant - really glad to hear that. If you can though switch it off when you're cooking so as not to pummel that vapour from cooking around the house. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte extractor fan above the hob and window typically opened a crack when creating a lot of steam. I haven't switched off the PIV at all yet....hadn't really intended to. The biggest problem with condensation I had was in the morning but that's pretty much all gone now. I'm genuinely surprised at how quickly and effectively the PIV has worked.
I don't think I have ever seen a product with so much positive feeback as the PIV system. I installed one and followed all the instructions (soffit vents, sealant around light fittings etc) but it did absolutely nothing for damp or condensation. I was gutted.
Great video and some useful tips. I'm a bit obsessed with trying to keep my flat aerated as it was really damp when I moved in last year and there was quite a bit of mould. With a dehumidifier and keeping my bathroom window closed it's well aired and a lot more comfortable.
Don't agree with the outside air being dry even when it's wet! Only applies if you heat it! Case in point an unheated house with a dehumidifier will stay fairly dry with doors and windows shut but leave the door open even for 5-10 minutes and the dehumidifier will have to work to remove the moisture. Also the moisture in that air will come to an equilibrium with the fabric of the building meaning you will get mould (day/night/solar gain temp swings leading to condensation). Also if its wet and mild outside which the UK often is, even in winter, you can't heat the air enough to change the relative humidity to an acceptable level unless you are going to keep your house at 20C constantly which people can't afford to do. Also the moisture in the fabric of the building will be released as the temperature rises, buffering the humidity. Long and the short of it is you are going to need to remove moisture or heat the house, or both to avoid damp. Make use of solar gain, allow rooms to heat up and crack open a window/vent once warm, shut again before things cool down. Mild and wet outside, try to keep things shut up. Still use extractors for cooking/bathrooms. It should be fairly economical to use the heating on a day like this and it will lower relative humidity. Cold and dry outside you are going to get condensation on windows etc. A window vac is probably a very sensible in this case. In a draughty damp house you could get 100ml per window and its cheaper than running a dehumidifier. You will have to have some heating on so maybe just set the thermostat 1 or 2 degrees lower and use a spare duvet. Maybe heat one room at a time. It's a bad situation if you can't afford to heat the house (or the house is hard to keep warm). I spent last winter in thermals and blankets/sleeping bags and that was with the heating on!
Really good vid. I bought a karcher specifically for our shower and religiously dry it all down after use. Will be opening our kitchen window onto the latch from now on after seeing this vid. Thanks. 👍
Thank you Charlie, an excellent video that I've just shared to my 25 year old daughter who's having mould problems in her flat. You explain it much better than I could, plus I learned from it aswel. Liked and subscribed.
Easiest thing, other than doing as advised with cooking and washing, is to do a quick air change in the house in the middle of winter when the air is close to freezing and as dry as possible. Very cold air can't hold much moisture and when you heat it and expand that air in the house the relative humidity percentage is then dramatically reduced as the same small amount of moisture is contained in a larger volume of expanded air
Found myself here having Googled "how to use a dehumidifier". I've just bought one as my flat (an old stone built building) has dreadful condensation and a general feeling of dampness in the air. Your video didn't tell me how to use my dehumidifier but I did learn a whole lot about moisture and how to manage it and also lots of DIY tips around ventilation which is enormously helpful as I embark on upgrading my flat. THANK YOU. I'll continue to watch your videos (you are a fab presenter and should be on the telly!) p.s. Could you do a little video on how best to use the dehumidifier. Do I keep it running all day, every day??????
Hello again. My advice, unless like the Ebac it has a smart mode, would be to have it running during and after events of major moisture generation eg hanging up clothes to dry, showering and bathing, and cooking and switch it off when the house is in more of a passive mode moisture wise. Always have the windows SHUT when you're using it and do get a couple of hygrometers so you can monitor relative humidity. Otherwise it's just guess work.
Very important tips!. Everyone I know is turning down their heating thermostats significantly. We have dropped ours to 17 degrees and already at end of October, seeing signs of excessive moisture and condensation. Recommend conversation with all of family to make them understand the key points of this vid.
BBC news website last week has an item “What an unheated room does to your body” Says 18°C is the critical level: below that, you risk significant health problems as the body tries to maintain its core temperature. I’ve also had my thermostat on 17°C whilst I’m moving around, but now boost to 18°C when sat watching tv, with a snug-rug over my legs 😊
@@lindaj5492 And we have found that we have had to increase our thermostat to 18 degrees. Got an hygrometer to measure humidity as our outer walls are getting very wet. Extractor fans running much more, along with the dehumidifier. Just trying to find the sweet spot to heat the home without blowing the budget. Humidity was running over 80% according to the hygrometer, now running around 66% with dehumidifier running constant. Target is 60% or below
@@lindaj5492 I saw that article but was confused, the man was in shorts, its unclear to me, obviously in shorts you're going to get unwell, what I need to know is if you feel warm are you OK or is it detrimental to your health breathing in air that's colder than 18 degrees?
I have been using the karcher window vac for years now, upgraded to the one with the digital screen. Amazing the karcher .After shower use it to dry all the pvc paneling in the bathroom, excellent. No window in my bathroom, so close the door and leave the extractor fan on for about half hour or so , gets rid of all the condensation.
Wow thank you for your explanation! This is very concise and finally understood the importance of keeping house humidity at ideal level! Thank you very much! Keep making more educational videos about home maintenance!
I have a PIV system as one room in our house that is all external walls (end terrace) gets very cold and condensation pools on these walls. Walls were literally running with moisture in the morning during winter until I fitted the dri master, so it has been a game changer. I do find it ironic that the houses we build are generally so airtight that we have to install energy consuming PIVs to get the air flow sorted. Wish house designers could make some sort of passive, carbon neutral system integrated into the house.
I agree. MVHR systems is as close as you can get to that right now. Someone in Sweden commented that they don't have any of these problems. I'm intrigued to know how they construct their houses.
I hadn’t given any of this much thought. My Tado thermostats also measure humidity, shocked to discover we’re at 73%. I’ve bought the hygrometer to compare and then I’ll tackle it.
After my wife uses the washing machine (2yr old) we put our wet clothes through an old spin drier and that takes out an extra 2litres (approx) of water before we radiator dry/rack dry our clothes.2 litres less water in air and dryer clothes to start with
You still need to be careful drying clothes inside. Get a dehumidifier and put it on when you're hanging the clothes to dry. You'll be amazed how quickly they dry and none of that moisture goes into the air. 👍
Fully recommend PIV systems, the air in my old house was so damp until I installed this. Theyre not cheap but they do a great job so are a good investment for those who have issues with damp air and condensation. Totally eliminates the issue.
Thank you dear. As i told you once before, we seldom open our windows here or doors unless we are nearby because we have monkeys coming in and causing havoc. What we have done is we bought some air dehumidifiers and put them all over the house. They have sort of crystals(?) in the top and the moisture is drawn into the container, and believe me, theres lots of it…..and they arent very expensive which is a bonus. They dont run on electricity, they are stand alone containers….i can send you a photo if you like….but thanks for this helpful video…take care
My house had seen a gradual increase in moisture and mould. I took to vacuuming the windows and purchased a couple of cheap Chinese de humidifiers. Alas they didn't stop the problem .2 weeks ago I bit the bullet and bought a NETTA OL12 dehumidifier. Wish I had bought it years ago. The amount of moisture it takes is fantastic. No more drrenched windows damp around window frames cold walls. Highly recommended anyone getting a decent dehumidifier. Oh I also do the squeegee in the shower. If you have a glass screen it stops discoloration of the glass
Where warm meets cold you get mould. Traditionally houses used to leak so much that they were well ventilated and the heat loss from fires etc carried away a lot of humidity. Traditional construction materials like heavy timbers, brick and thick plaster had a hygric buffer capacity where modern construction has almost none. Also condensing surfaces like tile and glass can protect other surfaces.
Lived in Canada for 35 yrs. don’t have a moisture issue at all. It’s dry air. Then moved back to England and had to buy a compressor dehumidifier to take moisture out of the air. It runs 24/7 365 and it’s alarming how much moisture is in English air. It does help in making it feel warmer also.
Just a tip for installing a PIV, I had one installed in February so havn’t seen it in action over a winter yet, however I recently noticed my loft condensates, that water drips down the felt and lands on the insulation on the edges of my house, then mould has grown on top of the dust on the insulation, so I’ve now had to turn my PIV off whilst I try and sort my loft issues out. Just so I’m not spreading mouldy air from the loft into the house. So make sure your loft is correctly suited before installing one. Home energy save in Stoke did mine, installed it well but I’m appalled at the fact they didn’t check whether my loft was suitable before installing it.
Thanks Mark. That's good to know. Sorry to hear about your problem. Have you had any ideas how to fix it? Cutting down on the moisture getting up there and possibly insulating the roof to prevent the dew point being reached I guess, but that's quite a big job.
I find in my old house the draughts are from chimneys and old fire places not blocked off properly the cold air is coming from the skirting board at the old fire place, you can purchase a chimney sealer a plastic bag with valve you inflate when up chimney. Cracks inside and outside around windows can be bad, especially cracks outside as well as inside gypsum plaster for plaster boards on newer houses and lime hydrated plaster for lime plaster walls, use lime hydrolic mortar for older houses and mastic or cement mortar for new houses outside. You can get draughts from light fittings, switches and sockets you can fit gaskets behind to stop draughts without disconnecting any wires.
I sorted my condensation out on my bay windows at night by using a 36 inch tube electric heater that costs about 6p per hour as it’s 120 watts at 37p per kilowatt hour todays prices, so it runs for 17 hours and uses 2.2killowatts within that time so costing 82p per night which isn’t to bad as it’s working and I have to think of my health as I suffer from Asthma and respiratory allergies. The humidity was at 87% before using the heater and now it’s 57% most nights. I run it on a digital timer from 4pm as that’s sundown and it runs all night right through to 9am and it just sits on my window sill and since using it I’ve had zero condensation. My main bay window is double glazed 4x4 feet and the 2 side windows are half that size and I leave them slightly open all night only a tiny bit like 1cm and it’s completely solved my condensation on my bedroom windows so I hope this helps someone. I purchased the tube heater from Amazon and the digital timer.
Thanks for this very useful video. I have also learnt some of this stuff through experiencing overcoming these damp areas in my bungalow. As it is an older built building from the 1970's, there is a good amount of airflow due to having airbricks all round, thus ventilating underneath the floor, there is also a good airflow from the entrances being in use and from slight gaps under doors etc. The shower tips given also I have been using an open window and the surface squeeging and I can agree that this leaves the bathroom completely dry like you describe.
Since watching this last year when researching dehumidifiers, I started religiously Karchering the bathroom after a shower! Also bought an Ebac Smart dehumidifier and the difference has been staggering. The bedroom windows have been streamed with condensation for years in winter, but that's a thing of the past now. We may get a quarter inch along the bottom edge on a really cold morning but that's it. Thanks for these videos Charlie, our previously damp, mouldy front bedroom on the N side is bone dry and ready to redecorate now the moisture is under control. Awesome stuff! The only thing I want to ask is the advice on keeping a window open, if the outdoor humidity is 90% aren't you simply adding to the indoor levels by letting that in?
this explains why i'm currently never below 78% humidity now i don't have the heating on. windows open all day wrapped up warm but now i know the cold means it's kind of a false reading.
Another brilliant video @CharlieDIYte, thank you! It all seems a bit odd to me though: the huge effort to insulate and draught-proof homes, which comes at a financial and environmental cost, to then have to leave windows open or pump fresh air in with a PIV. Only heat-recovery ventilation makes sense to me from this perspective.
Great video as always. Very thoughtful. I’ve recently had new double glazing but I couldn’t work out why I’ve got some much water build up. But this explain it! Stop closing Roman blinds or open the trickle vent.
Great advice. I’ve been using smart devices to both monitor the air and also trigger events to happen. I.e if humidity drops below 40% the extractor in cellar turns off or on, saving energy! If humidity is high in the bedroom my phone alert us me to crack the window etc. Also got a PIV which is great but creates a cold draft.
@@donien3113 I’m using Aqara sensors which are relatively cheap. I’m on Apple HomeKit. I use Shelly modules which you can wire to your devices to make them smart.
Holy Smoke!!! I saw another video of yours the other day and was impressed with the content of the information you shared. Moreover, I had never seen the squeegee vac before. That afternoon, I ordered one and received it a couple days later, and I have to tell you, it was a great purchase. Thank you for the very valuable information you shared.
Informative as ever. We have single pane glazing in our house and the Kercher window vac is a must in winter, I’m surprised every time by how much it collects I’ve read that the Germans accomplish low humidity by opening all their windows and doors daily to bring the dry air in. Can’t see them doing it this winter with gas prices the way they are!
I was given a piece of valuable advice a few years ago and have always followed it. If the weather outside does not allow you to dry your washing then you should close your windows, otherwise keep them open as much as you can.
Just to say I bought the drimaster 2000 with heat some time ago for a victorian house. If you have damp or water running down your windows this is truly a game changer. You will need a qualified electrician to install it but it was worth every penny.
I think it’s worth adding that the most economic heat pump drier will be better than a dehumidifier and my Bosch one has a drain pipe option so no more emptying the water tank
Many thanks Charlie after weeks and weeks of searching I found your video is by far the most in-depth and comprehensive on you tube that not only explains the issue but also offers a full range of technical solutions on this subject brilliantly thanks …. Although now I have the knowledge…. I have to implement it lol😅
A few years ago I moved into the ground floor apartment of a well insulated, new build, apartment block. Damp and mould would accumulate in the lower hallway around front door and around the front windows. I installed a dehumidifier capable of of extracting 25 litres of water per day. For around 3 weeks, that’s exactly what it did, extract 25 litres, daily. I leave it on permanently. 5 years later it is still extracting 10 litres a day. All traces of damp and mould have vanished. I have it set to 40% humidity, unless I’m drying laundry then it is set to ‘laundry mode’ it works by drawing in air at room. Cooling that air via a compressor causing water to be dumped into a collection bin. It then reheats that cooled air prior to expelling it. I estimate the running cost to be around 35 per month. But, the manufacturer claims that the running cost is actually not that high as the rest of electrical equipment in the apartment will run more efficiently in the dryer conditions.
I noticed how long my kettle was boiling and the amount of steam it was putting out so just bought a variable temp kettle - setting it to 90 degrees makes such a massive difference, and im sure will save a ton of money on lekky too.
I moved into a 1926 single skin build house where the previous owners had (thirty+ years ago) installed a flat roof extension, concreted the driveway to the side (above the DPC and in contact with the full length of the main exterior wall of the house), installed wall to wall floor to ceiling fitted wardrobes in the two main bedrooms attached to the inside of the main exterior wall, fitted uPVC windows with no vents and used wallpaper on the inside of the main interior wall to attempt to insulate the wall internally. I had to immediately remove the fitted wardrobes and wallpaper to expose the wall to the air as the wardrobe doors were warm but the walls were cold exacerbating the causes of damp you could smell the moment you walked into rooms. Over the course of six years so far I have fitted a new bathroom with a good extractor fan to discharge moisture before it settles anywhere Replaced all uPVC windows for new with trickle vents installed Replaced any other wooden or aluminium framed windows and doors Installed a nuaire PIV system with 400 watt heater in the loft above our landing myself Placed a good dehumidifier in my kitchen where I tend to dry laundry (especially in winter) although my partner still occasionally puts laundry on the bannister despite my campaign for her to stop it. The dehumidifier drains directly to the kitchen sink. I put Thermpro hygrometers in two rooms, one upstairs and one in the kitchen to keep tabs on humidity levels. Last but not least I pulled up the concrete in contact with most of the exterior wall and installed a French drain in place as a short to medium term measure to stop the wall.whicking damp from the ground outside until I get the driveway done again. New windows with vents, installing a French drain, removing fitted wardrobes and tanking wallpaper and installing a new bathroom were my drastic measures to combat issues as soon as I became aware of them. All the other measures I took from your previous video on damp and this video with regards to PIV and each of them has had a really positive effect on the environment in my house. I had never encountered this issue (to this extent) and have learned as I went along. The mitigations you raised in your videos helped me out no end and the results and lessons learned have informed my decision to instigate further mitigations as a result. I decided, whilst I have the facility to do so, I will initiate larger works and get the whole house removed of render and covered in external wall insulation with a decent render finish. Also the drive to front and side is being sorted with a new resin bound surface to take the level back below the DPC and create better managed drainage to the side. So as well as having a nice looking house and warmer house I will have a house with really good mitigations in place which I intend to keep after the larger works are completed and it is many thanks to you for putting this information together so well. Diolch. Plus I will continue using you as a source of information for DIY which is a wonderful help to me.
Thank you so much! Moving to Europe this winter and have been looking at resolving the damp issues of older apartments. FYI, I could have used this information when I had an older house in New York State.
Really well presented and informative video. Reassured to know we are doing many things correctly in our old, damp stone cottage but equally have learned there are more (low cost) steps we can take to improve our living conditions, many thanks Charlie.
Just an addendum on using the kitchen extractor fan; burning natural gas releases very large amounts of water vapour. Another reason to always use the extractor when cooking with gas. Which you always should do anyway as trapping combustion byproducts in your living space is far from ideal.
Biggest thing I did was ditch my vented tumble dryer for a heat pump one The main issue I have is 3 people sleep in the one so the dehumidifier is on a sleep setting, no more wet windows
Heat pump dryers are worse that vent ones, ask any repairman out there that specialises in them. They also break much quicker and replacement parts are a problem after warranty expires, especially the electronic board.
I live in Sweden where relative humidity is lower I would say all houses here have a ventilation system. Mine is over forty years old, there is a vent fan in the roof which draws air from bathrooms, toilets, laundry rooms and even storage rooms. Most windows have a ventilator in the frame, I have never had condensation on any window and I have lived in this house almost twenty years. The only condensation I see is in autumn on the three new windows I bought ca 15 years ago but they are triple glazed with one vacuum panel and one with argon gas and the condensation forms outside! The ventilation fan runs 24/7 year in year out, most people here have squeegees in their showers. I tried to get my son to have an in-line loft fan connecting his two new bathrooms and running 24/7 but his installer fitted humidity controlled fans which are not particularly good, they only run for a few minutes and are noisy. Pretty much what you have talked about are standards here, so well done Charlie for this video.
I live in a rental property in Germany. New residents get a manual dictating how long to keep the windows open in each season. The flat has no other ventilation, even the cooker hood is just a filter that exhausts back into the kitchen.
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Smart mode runs constantly does yours ever turn off
Good to see someone who understands this problem. I worked in the damp proofing industry for around 10 years in in the 80's, and about a third of the calls I got to supposed 'rising damp' were actually condensation. One point I would make is this: the (NET) cost of running a dehumidifier really needs to take into account the heat released by the machine itself. This is the latent heat contained in the moisture. The heat (energy) that was used to evaporate the water in the first place is still there - contained in the moist air. The dehumidifier releases it. Therefore your central heating thermostat will stop calling for heat a little sooner than it would otherwise. Obviously no machine is 100% efficient, so it can't cancel out the electricity cost altogether. Ebac are a British made machine and that was my first choice, about five years ago. Sadly, the extraction rate plummeted after a year or so, despite buying new (expensive) filters. So we replaced it with a 10 litre Meaco model - and that has been great: still extracts a good 5 lires a night from late October onwards. It's rated at 150w but when I checked it out, actually uses only 122 w. It works out at just over a Kwh per night, which at the present cost, is just over 33p + vat.
My first ebac broke after 4 yrs, replaced under GTE, broke after 2 more yrs , replaced with another Ebac that lasted 4 years . Changed brands now ,
How are you collecting 5 litres a night?? :O the humidity in my flat ranges between 55-80%, and even after drying laundry for 5/6 hours, I don't even half fill the tank of my Meaco (2 or 3 litre tank)
@@michaelohagan6668 over 24 hrs actually, not a night. Sorry, my mistake.
@@johnriggs4929 Still sounds a heck of a lot. Do you have an Olympic swimming pool in your house? :D
2 other very simple tips that cost nothing and actually save a little money, put a lid on any pans when cooking, this makes a big difference to the amount of vapour released but also means you don't require as much energy to heat the pan. Secondly, keep the lid of the loo down. This avoids the evaporation of the water from the toilet.
A couple of final bonus tips, dry up any washing up rather than leaving it on the draining board to air dry, as all that happens in that case is the moisture goes up into the air. Then put the damp cloth in the bathroom/toilet room to air dry where the moist air can be extracted by the extractor fan. Then finally, hang up any wet towels in the bathroom rather than leaving them in bedrooms etc in a heap on the floor. Again the moisture can then escape via the air vent.
It is amazing how much these things plus all the tips in the video, especially the Karcher after a shower makes. So much of damp and mould issues is down to lifestyle issues rather than anything else. Taking these simple measures can save you a lot of time and money in the long run as it avoids damage to your property.
All great tips!
To minimize steaming, is good use stove residual heat. Just before water start boiling cut power off.
Thank you 👍
You can defrost food fast in plastic bags in a bowl of water with a slow running cold tap running into it to keep the water warmer than freezing, water being a good conductor speeds up defrosting ten times over.
@@marklittler784 I use metal coffee cup and if it too hot, I use cold water bath for coffee to get temp down. It takes ten seconds.
The internet needs more people like you Charlie! - Once again my mind has just been blown. Thanks for taking the time to make this, and sharing your knowledge, especially as saving £££ is more important than ever!
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
I have a compressor dehumidifier and it's amazing. The difference before and after getting it is immediately noticeable. The amount of water it takes out of the air is honestly amazing. I also keep a humidity meter in a prominent place so I can check when I need to run it. As others have mentioned it also gives off some heat too. So it's not wasting energy in winter. It comes in useful.
over a year ago i began sleeping in a room with fresh outside air being pumped in, filtered and hydrated.... (essentially a swap cooler/evaporative cooler
no more dry itchy skin, no more waking up with carpet mouth.
i sleep better, longer and wake feeling leagues better.
mould only forms in stagnant wet air. removing all moisture from the air is detramental to human health
Hello, what is a name of the product, machine? Thnx
@@MrVojtus Meaco MeacoDry Dehumidifier ABC Range 12L
@@VeeSeven700 I gave you a 👍 for sharing, but they're pretty expensive.
@@jimmyhackers8980 what sort of system is this please? Thanks
Just the content I was looking for as a fellow Brit suffering with high humidity and a hard to heat house. A massive thanks to you Charlie!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
Yeah dry clothes in room with door shut windows open that gets sun, probably with heating off as well. Houses especially mattresses need airing daytime especially rooms your not using daytime.
@SmilerKyle. I live in a rented property and the house is always cold , the odd thing is in the summer it’s like a greenhouse despite having all the windows open . None of the doors leading outside are fitted correctly and neither are the double glazed windows . I asked the property owner to sort these issues out and was told to open all windows and doors with no heating . It was warmer outside in the winter than indoors . Sucks
@@marklittler784 I always pull back the sheets/ blankets on the bed after getting up, and leave the bed air for 20-30 minutes while starting breakfast. Then I make the bed without trapping in the moisture.
@@Lili-xq9sn Does it dry out that quickly though usually you need heat an electric blanket would help dry a mattress
Thanks for the information. Since the majority of energy wasted by a dehumidifier will be in the form of heat it's perhaps more efficient than it first seems because you are also slightly heating your space and offsetting heating costs by that small fraction (assuming your heating is on at the time).
Exactly! I should have mentioned that albeit that's more relevant for compressor dehumidifiers than dessicants.
A dehumidifier actually does even better than that, as when water vapour condenses on a surface it warms it slightly via latent heat (opposite process of when water evaporates off our skin, cooling it). Therefore a 200w dehumidifier will actually provide around 250w of heating to the space!
@@Ralphius86 I was immediately thinking that didn’t make sense. But I think you’re right providing you empty the water tank of cold water and remove it from the room down the sink you get all of the energy that was in that water vapour and put that into the air inside the room. It will come out the condenser side of the compressor dehumidifier.
Yes exactly, the air from my condensing dehumidifier is 1°C warmer than the surrounding air.
It takes a long time, but it does increase the room temperature noticeably (while drying my clothes).
A lot of people do not realise this when they talk about wasted energy in things like plug adapters and lights dotted around the house. In the Summer when your heating is off, yes, all the heat from these things is a complete waste of energy but, in the Winter, that is distributed heating and if you have a thermostat system (which everyone should), it can mean less heat needs to be provided by your main heating system. Sure, gas (or whatever better heating system you may have) is cheaper than electricity for heating but it is still useful and is not usually a huge amount. Also, any heat source sets up convection currents which will help air to move around e.g. adapters in sockets in the corners of rooms.
One thing I do that I don't think anyone else has mentioned in the comments, is to use a flannel in the shower to wash down & then at the end of the shower before getting out, squeeze out the flannel & use it to wipe off the majority of water left in your hair & on your skin wringing out the flannel as it becomes laden with water, it usually takes 3-4 wrings & takes 20-30 seconds to complete & you will be amazed at how much water this removes so that when you finish drying with a towel, the towel will be very much drier as it has probably had to remove only 20-25% off the moisture it would have had to do. Result, towel dry quicker & much less water vapor is released into the bathroom as towel dries. Yes, it's a little more time & effort, but worth it, buy a flannel from £1- £5 give it a try & it has cleaning benefits compared to just soaping down your body using your hands with a bar of soap or shower gel.
Totally agree. Been doing this for years, but my kids refuse to join in.
Good thinking Geoff. Makes a lot of sense. 👍
Brilliant article, thank you. I am old enough to have lived in a house with no central heating and just a coal fire in the sitting room, the fire drew air in from outside via our rattley, ill-fitting doors and windows ( insulation - none, draught-proof strip made of foam sponge around the door or a copper strip). Frozen leaf patterns on the inside of the windows and getting dressed under the bed covers. Can’t believe we’re going back to those days. We have just used Wallrock thermal insulation fabric internally on two outside walls, what a difference, not too expensive a diy job either. Perhaps you should ask Liz Truss to put this out as a public information film!
Thanks Jane. Yes I also would get dressed under the bed sheets for the same reason, and water frozen in the tooth brush mug in the morning! You're right, insulation makes a massive difference. I insulated the internal walls upstairs and it's transformed the ability to heat each room.
I was born in communism growing up in a ramshackle house in the 80's with exactly the same: frozen toilets/pipes and windows frozen over (we used to call them 'ice flowers', a coal oven that needed to be set up in the morning and washing with just a hot water cloth... Today I actually benefit from learning as a kid how to maximise my (limited) resources, being practical and appreciate all the luxuries of the Western world.
Quality video Charlie. This the best and most concise explanation for a problem that has haunted us for years. We're now building a modern well-insulated home, which we're doing with a fabric first approach, so will be ensuring that we get the fundamentals right, but for many people this isn't an option. We are now entering the time of year where I have to go over the principles of condensation AGAIN with my Daughter, we do it every year. She will learn a lot when I force her to watch this video, maybe she needs to hear it from someone else.
Great video. We bought a Meaco dehumidifier - great purchase. Aswell as general dehumidifying it’s great for clothes drying - much better than the heated airers. Laundry mode aims to get to 35% and runs for six hours. Its maximum consumption is 240 watts so even at the new 34p per kw/h maximum rate it’s just over 8p per hour.
I've been using a floor standing dehumidifier to dry clothes but what I also do is run a large desk fan on the floor pointing at the washing, with the washing hung over an airer edge ways on relative to the fan you get a massive amount of airflow over the washing and it dries a lot quicker. The dehumidifier can then do it's job of drying the air.
May I ask which Meaco model you bought? we've been considering the new Arete because Meaco said it's better than their older platinum :) thanks
@@voodoomotion5855 we just bought the 25l version gotta say its brilliant, its dropped our house from 73 to 55 in just 3 days
@@djjluvv sounds like we definitely need it. Our new loft room is perfect but rest of the house gets cold and damp so easily. Sadly Argos no longer have them on offer, lucky to get them for such less than £300 but worth the money! Thanks for your reply
@@voodoomotion5855 i got mine for £300 worth it though, its just a never ending struggle lol.
After watching many of your videos over the past few weeks I decided to buy an Ebac 4000 series Dehumidifier. I have tried other brands in the past and none of them have worked. However, the Ebac is absolutely the answer to all of our condensation problems. Our bungalow has been on average 70% relative humidity so far this autumn/winter season. Same every year. It makes the place feel damp and cold all the time. The windows are constantly dripping wet with condensation in the morning and the bathroom ceiling sprouts mould (or mold depending on your preferred spelling). Since using the Ebac the RH is a constant 49% and absolutely no more wet windows or mould growth anywhere. Best of all, Ebac is a British company and all of their appliances are made in Britain. This has 100% cured our problem. So glad I found your channel, otherwise I would never have known about Ebac. The atmosphere in the house just feels so much healthier. No more horrible cold, damp smell. Keep up the good work 👍
We do everything mentioned here. Even have the window vac to do all the tiles. Amazing how much water that collects.
The Ultimate winner for us, is the 2x dehumidifiers with cloths drying mode which we dont actually use! Our desicant type dehuhmidifiers also warm up the air and reduces the need for main heating. Thumbs up from us, to Charlie.
We should also point out that we have 2x Pureair units that burn every virus, pollen, germ and dust particle which only use 50 watts per hour and add warmth to the rooms.
Fruit on the table is definately lasting "many weeks" longer which is supposed to be one of the plus points for these units. We agree with that point.
Watched this and went straight out and bought a dehumidifier for my daughter for her home. Great advice here, especially as people won't be heating their homes up as much due to the steep energy price increases.
Don't dehumidifiers cost a shit ton of energy though?
@@hrdstyldncngisbst no. 290w, plus release warm, dry air....result!
What a brilliant video! We have started to implement changes to combat mould especially after we bought a new bed. Our old divan had lots of mould under it which we had been sleeping on for yonks🙈 we couldn’t smell it even until we started to strip it down when taking it out. We were very concerned…Our new bed now has room underneath it so air can move about-resisting the urge to store anything under it too! A wool duvet was a game changer to keep warm at night and now throw duvet off the bed in the morning to let it air for a few hours, gets rid of any trapped moisture in the bed. The urge to not make the bed immediately is hard to shake off lol. Hope it helps someone else sharing our story.
Thanks Charlie! Squigee is on board and hydrometer purchased…i love it when a plan comes together 💪
Thanks so much for that. Yes you've solved the bed problem with the ventilation, and as you say, with a plan in place you should keep any damp problems in check going forward 👌👊
The tragic death of the toddler in Manchester that was caused by mould spores really brings home the importance of your condensation videos.
David I was shocked by that news coverage over the last few days. Poor family 🥺
Probably drying washing inside without ventilation thinking the property is damp when really it's the way they're using it.
In a new build apartment we had once drying outside on the balcony was “forbidden”. They installed tumble driers but they can’t be used for everything as clothes are damaged so people would dry inside and as you said they were air tight and thus, masses of condensation and so many people had huge damp problems and entire flats needed to be re plastered. Badly built to be as warm as possible and no trickle vents But people also didn’t realise the need to ventilate either.
@@FuknNoName Yep, the activist group is called 'Insulate Britain' but given our climate, it should be 'Ventilate Britain'
Great video as usual. Only issue i have is opening windows in winter is counter productive. Our climate in winter offers an external air with 80-90% humidity. I find opening windows in winter makes things worse.
As we move into a new home...I am grateful to be seeing this.
You're welcome Adam. It's just a few steps but being aware of them makes a world of difference. Get some hygrometers 👍
Excellent piece as usual Charlie. Just sat down for a tea break from the ongoing renovations of my cottage, where damp is an issue, have reduced the problem significantly with windows ajar especially when showering. My dehumidifier is a little hungry on energy but will have to use it.
My biggest issue is to get my wife to comply with the rules😂 Many thanks👍
Thanks James. 👊 You have that problem as well. I've told her so many times not to fill the kettle to the top when we're just making two mugs I bought a 2 mug 600w kettle on eBay the other day and it will be replacing that one you see in the vid. Plus I have a silent rebellion on the shower window point. I think they open it when they're done, to placate me! Great work on the house. Sounds like you're getting there!
@@CharlieDIYte I bet you have had more than a few complaints that she is cold!
I have the same issue, except in my house it's getting my husband to comply, as I am the enforcer.
Particularly with the kettle - it drives me mad!
@@janetwilliams2835 i have to monitor the lights on in the house as my hubby thinks we live in Blackpool. The times I've come home to a house with all the lights on and no one in. Kettle too, filled almost to the top for 1 drink.grrrrr I definately need to get 1 of those kettles.
@@CharlieDIYte What about a flask Charlie and less electricity too 🙂
best purchase i made this year a dehumidifier i was getting damp in my bedroom and got breathing problems all that stopped it
I haven't watched the video yet but each year Charlie always takes on the moisture. Can't wait to watch it, I wonder x years on if he's still asking his family to open the window after using the bathroom and them telling him no lol
Your "Environment" advice was a forehead-slap-game-changer realisation for me and my sopping wet condensation window problem in my old stone cottage
...makes so much sence, once pointed out to you 🙄 ...thank you 🙏🏻😁
So glad to hear that - that's what I'm here for 👊 You just get a Karcher. Game changing! Could also be a PIV install would do the trick?
It’s feels quite counterintuitive to open windows makes it easier to heat your home. But what you’ve gone through makes sense, thanks. Now just have to get the mrs and kids on side!
I've got one of those karcher things, the amount of water you clean up is mind boggling
The Karcher window vac is utterly useless for cleaning windows so ours is permanently on bathroom duty and I do try to dry the shower after use.
Dehumidifiers are a good piece of kit if you use them right. In a heavily insulated home the air is fairly stagnant, so if you add a fan to the mix, it helps push the moist air around your home and give it a chance to get caught in your dehumidifier.
I have experimented and found that my dehumidifer is more than twice as effective when I use a fan. I use a Dyson type fan where there airflow isn't that noticeable, just enough to get the air moving.
Thanks Chris. That makes sense. 👍
Don't all dehumidifiers have an integrated fan?
Yes a small weak fan that draw air in from a small radius around the unit. If you have a larger fan to push the air around the room your dehumidifier will have access to much more untreated air and collection will be vastly improved. Also if you use a fan it pushes moisture off surfaces into the air for treatment.
@@Christopher_T_Paul Wow, that makes real sense, never thought about it like that before
Very helpful as always mate, are damp is getting very bad, time to sort it💪👍
In my experience I'm usually struggling to keep the air moisture high enough to be comfortable during winter. Literally, running a humidifier 24/7 throughout the winter months. As someone with bad sinuses, air moisture levels makes a massive difference to me.
Sorry to hear that Susanna. Is that in the UK?
Same here in a wooden building, in Norway
@@CharlieDIYte Mines too dry all winter too as most houses here in Ohio. I'm puzzled as to why you have high humidity in the winter. 🤔
@@dennykeaton9701 The UK has a maritime climate, it is humid all year round. I'm guessing Ohio has a continental climate.
Nantucket or Orlando would probably be more like us
@@juliantheapostate8295 Ahh ok. Thanks for explaining. 👍
We run a couple of dessiccant type dehumidifiers in our house during the Winter months, one upstairs, the other downstairs, they have the benefit of adding a little background heat too
Good work. Drain offs so they don't need emptying would be excellent too.
Winter in Canada when it is well blow freezing the air gets too dry. Love hanging the laundry to raise humidity. 🇨🇦. Try ceiling fans as well. Lived in the tropics. There we had mould issues
Thanks Deborah - love those insights. 👍
I have the same Ikea squeegee x 3! It gives me such a sense of satisfaction to see all the water go down the drain instead of into the air. Plus, I have definitely gotten much quicker with the squeegee since starting with it. I wonder if a visual of how much air can hold at different temperatures would be helpful.
You and me both! Yes I should have included a visual. I think there might be one in that original video.
I installed a DryMaster and I am not kidding when I say it stopped condensation overnight. Highly recommended.
… Dry your laundry in your bathroom with the door almost closed (due to the cable from dehumidifier) with dehumidifier on. It will dry quickly the clothes and the bathroom (around 2h depending on type of clothes, thicker might need longer time to dry up to 4h depending on the bathroom size). Very good video about condensation and dump …
The wiping down of the shower screen and walls is so essential. Takes 1 min, do it!
Exactly 👊
Installed a PIV into our very damp and mouldy house 3 years ago . Great bit of kit and very impressed with the big improvement its made.
Cheers Kevin. Yes, you and so many others have been very impressed with them. Does yours have a heater?
@@CharlieDIYte no it doesn't. Can be a bit chilly at times but its worth it.
I installed a PIV with heater (NuAire) 2 years ago and it has made a massive difference to condensation levels in my home which previously had windows running with condensation, yes it does chill the landing area a little, but the advantages far outweigh this.
@@GrandslamTim1 we’ve done the same and it’s completely eradicated the chronic damp/condensation problems we had over winter. We don’t need to run it in summer and it’s not that expensive to run.
Great video Charlie iv'e used same things as you with great results even with 2ft wide walls .
Went one step further and took render off outside of house and lime pointed.👍👍🍺🍺
totally agree about the PIV system. We installed a Nuaire a few years ago and it cleared up the black ceiling mould within a few days. Here is something that is key to them working efficiently. Make sure that if you have cavity wall insulation that it hasn't been filled up too much so that it blocks air ingress through the eaves. A benefit of a PIV system is that your heating will warm quicker because its not having to heat damp air. I find anything under 70% humidity is fine. Regarding the cold from the PIV, yes it is, the heating element isn't a traditional heater, it doesn't make much difference. Another tip, put your clothes on an airer and put a dehumidifier next to it. They'll dry quckly
Interesting about the heater in the PIV. 👍
Had a PIV system installed about a week ago.
What a difference ...amazing.
And I didn't even install it in my hallway....it's in my kitchen. Condensation pretty much disappeared over about 3 days and I've barely noticed the house being colder.
Ah, brilliant - really glad to hear that. If you can though switch it off when you're cooking so as not to pummel that vapour from cooking around the house. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte extractor fan above the hob and window typically opened a crack when creating a lot of steam.
I haven't switched off the PIV at all yet....hadn't really intended to. The biggest problem with condensation I had was in the morning but that's pretty much all gone now. I'm genuinely surprised at how quickly and effectively the PIV has worked.
I don't think I have ever seen a product with so much positive feeback as the PIV system. I installed one and followed all the instructions (soffit vents, sealant around light fittings etc) but it did absolutely nothing for damp or condensation. I was gutted.
Great video and some useful tips. I'm a bit obsessed with trying to keep my flat aerated as it was really damp when I moved in last year and there was quite a bit of mould. With a dehumidifier and keeping my bathroom window closed it's well aired and a lot more comfortable.
Don't agree with the outside air being dry even when it's wet! Only applies if you heat it! Case in point an unheated house with a dehumidifier will stay fairly dry with doors and windows shut but leave the door open even for 5-10 minutes and the dehumidifier will have to work to remove the moisture.
Also the moisture in that air will come to an equilibrium with the fabric of the building meaning you will get mould (day/night/solar gain temp swings leading to condensation). Also if its wet and mild outside which the UK often is, even in winter, you can't heat the air enough to change the relative humidity to an acceptable level unless you are going to keep your house at 20C constantly which people can't afford to do. Also the moisture in the fabric of the building will be released as the temperature rises, buffering the humidity.
Long and the short of it is you are going to need to remove moisture or heat the house, or both to avoid damp.
Make use of solar gain, allow rooms to heat up and crack open a window/vent once warm, shut again before things cool down.
Mild and wet outside, try to keep things shut up. Still use extractors for cooking/bathrooms. It should be fairly economical to use the heating on a day like this and it will lower relative humidity.
Cold and dry outside you are going to get condensation on windows etc. A window vac is probably a very sensible in this case. In a draughty damp house you could get 100ml per window and its cheaper than running a dehumidifier. You will have to have some heating on so maybe just set the thermostat 1 or 2 degrees lower and use a spare duvet. Maybe heat one room at a time.
It's a bad situation if you can't afford to heat the house (or the house is hard to keep warm).
I spent last winter in thermals and blankets/sleeping bags and that was with the heating on!
Really good vid. I bought a karcher specifically for our shower and religiously dry it all down after use. Will be opening our kitchen window onto the latch from now on after seeing this vid. Thanks. 👍
Thank you Charlie, an excellent video that I've just shared to my 25 year old daughter who's having mould problems in her flat. You explain it much better than I could, plus I learned from it aswel. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks Robert, for the kind words and for sharing it with her. Here's hoping it helps her to get on top of her flat problems. 🤞
I have just had underfloor heating installed in my hallways as well as the kitchen ready for the winter
Ah, brilliant. From a heat massing point of view that's the holy grail. 👏👏
Easiest thing, other than doing as advised with cooking and washing, is to do a quick air change in the house in the middle of winter when the air is close to freezing and as dry as possible. Very cold air can't hold much moisture and when you heat it and expand that air in the house the relative humidity percentage is then dramatically reduced as the same small amount of moisture is contained in a larger volume of expanded air
Thanks 👍
One air change per winter? Surely every day
Found myself here having Googled "how to use a dehumidifier". I've just bought one as my flat (an old stone built building) has dreadful condensation and a general feeling of dampness in the air. Your video didn't tell me how to use my dehumidifier but I did learn a whole lot about moisture and how to manage it and also lots of DIY tips around ventilation which is enormously helpful as I embark on upgrading my flat. THANK YOU. I'll continue to watch your videos (you are a fab presenter and should be on the telly!) p.s. Could you do a little video on how best to use the dehumidifier. Do I keep it running all day, every day??????
Hello again. My advice, unless like the Ebac it has a smart mode, would be to have it running during and after events of major moisture generation eg hanging up clothes to dry, showering and bathing, and cooking and switch it off when the house is in more of a passive mode moisture wise. Always have the windows SHUT when you're using it and do get a couple of hygrometers so you can monitor relative humidity. Otherwise it's just guess work.
Very important tips!. Everyone I know is turning down their heating thermostats significantly. We have dropped ours to 17 degrees and already at end of October, seeing signs of excessive moisture and condensation. Recommend conversation with all of family to make them understand the key points of this vid.
BBC news website last week has an item “What an unheated room does to your body” Says 18°C is the critical level: below that, you risk significant health problems as the body tries to maintain its core temperature. I’ve also had my thermostat on 17°C whilst I’m moving around, but now boost to 18°C when sat watching tv, with a snug-rug over my legs 😊
@@lindaj5492 And we have found that we have had to increase our thermostat to 18 degrees. Got an hygrometer to measure humidity as our outer walls are getting very wet. Extractor fans running much more, along with the dehumidifier. Just trying to find the sweet spot to heat the home without blowing the budget. Humidity was running over 80% according to the hygrometer, now running around 66% with dehumidifier running constant. Target is 60% or below
@@lindaj5492 I saw that article but was confused, the man was in shorts, its unclear to me, obviously in shorts you're going to get unwell, what I need to know is if you feel warm are you OK or is it detrimental to your health breathing in air that's colder than 18 degrees?
I have been using the karcher window vac for years now, upgraded to the one with the digital screen. Amazing the karcher .After shower use it to dry all the pvc paneling in the bathroom, excellent. No window in my bathroom, so close the door and leave the extractor fan on for about half hour or so , gets rid of all the condensation.
Great work 👏👏
Wow thank you for your explanation! This is very concise and finally understood the importance of keeping house humidity at ideal level! Thank you very much! Keep making more educational videos about home maintenance!
I have a PIV system as one room in our house that is all external walls (end terrace) gets very cold and condensation pools on these walls.
Walls were literally running with moisture in the morning during winter until I fitted the dri master, so it has been a game changer.
I do find it ironic that the houses we build are generally so airtight that we have to install energy consuming PIVs to get the air flow sorted. Wish house designers could make some sort of passive, carbon neutral system integrated into the house.
I agree. MVHR systems is as close as you can get to that right now. Someone in Sweden commented that they don't have any of these problems. I'm intrigued to know how they construct their houses.
@@CharlieDIYte hopefully a Swedish national can shed some light. Great video as always Charlie 👍
I hadn’t given any of this much thought. My Tado thermostats also measure humidity, shocked to discover we’re at 73%. I’ve bought the hygrometer to compare and then I’ll tackle it.
After my wife uses the washing machine (2yr old) we put our wet clothes through an old spin drier and that takes out an extra 2litres (approx) of water before we radiator dry/rack dry our clothes.2 litres less water in air and dryer clothes to start with
You still need to be careful drying clothes inside. Get a dehumidifier and put it on when you're hanging the clothes to dry. You'll be amazed how quickly they dry and none of that moisture goes into the air. 👍
Fully recommend PIV systems, the air in my old house was so damp until I installed this. Theyre not cheap but they do a great job so are a good investment for those who have issues with damp air and condensation. Totally eliminates the issue.
Thanks Mark. Yep there's a lot of love for them in the comments. Glad it fixed your problem. 👍
Thank you dear. As i told you once before, we seldom open our windows here or doors unless we are nearby because we have monkeys coming in and causing havoc. What we have done is we bought some air dehumidifiers and put them all over the house. They have sort of crystals(?) in the top and the moisture is drawn into the container, and believe me, theres lots of it…..and they arent very expensive which is a bonus. They dont run on electricity, they are stand alone containers….i can send you a photo if you like….but thanks for this helpful video…take care
My house had seen a gradual increase in moisture and mould. I took to vacuuming the windows and purchased a couple of cheap Chinese de humidifiers. Alas they didn't stop the problem .2 weeks ago I bit the bullet and bought a NETTA OL12 dehumidifier. Wish I had bought it years ago. The amount of moisture it takes is fantastic. No more drrenched windows damp around window frames cold walls. Highly recommended anyone getting a decent dehumidifier. Oh I also do the squeegee in the shower. If you have a glass screen it stops discoloration of the glass
Re the drenched window frames - do you leave your dehumidifier on during the night? Thanks
Kettle tip if you have variable temp - heat to 90dC for your beverages
Where warm meets cold you get mould. Traditionally houses used to leak so much that they were well ventilated and the heat loss from fires etc carried away a lot of humidity. Traditional construction materials like heavy timbers, brick and thick plaster had a hygric buffer capacity where modern construction has almost none. Also condensing surfaces like tile and glass can protect other surfaces.
Yep. I agree 💯
Learnt a few things. I didn’t realise colder air was dryer. Thanks for a superbly informative video 👍🏼
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment. 👊
been a "de-humidifier" for 10 years+ its amazing how much humidity two people in a house pump out overnight whilst they are sleeping.
And the dogs too, love our Ebac’s
Lived in Canada for 35 yrs. don’t have a moisture issue at all. It’s dry air. Then moved back to England and had to buy a compressor dehumidifier to take moisture out of the air. It runs 24/7 365 and it’s alarming how much moisture is in English air. It does help in making it feel warmer also.
Hi how much is costing you to run and what brand and make did you buy
Just a tip for installing a PIV, I had one installed in February so havn’t seen it in action over a winter yet, however I recently noticed my loft condensates, that water drips down the felt and lands on the insulation on the edges of my house, then mould has grown on top of the dust on the insulation, so I’ve now had to turn my PIV off whilst I try and sort my loft issues out. Just so I’m not spreading mouldy air from the loft into the house. So make sure your loft is correctly suited before installing one. Home energy save in Stoke did mine, installed it well but I’m appalled at the fact they didn’t check whether my loft was suitable before installing it.
Thanks Mark. That's good to know. Sorry to hear about your problem. Have you had any ideas how to fix it? Cutting down on the moisture getting up there and possibly insulating the roof to prevent the dew point being reached I guess, but that's quite a big job.
Gosh Charlie you are a wealth of information. Thank you so much for this information USA Idaho, winter is coming!
Yes I'm having the same issue in an apartment in the US it's driving me crazy!
Another classic Charlie DIYte video - well researched, well informed and well produced. Well done! Really appreciate the information here mate.
Thanks, really appreciate that 👊
I find in my old house the draughts are from chimneys and old fire places not blocked off properly the cold air is coming from the skirting board at the old fire place, you can purchase a chimney sealer a plastic bag with valve you inflate when up chimney. Cracks inside and outside around windows can be bad, especially cracks outside as well as inside gypsum plaster for plaster boards on newer houses and lime hydrated plaster for lime plaster walls, use lime hydrolic mortar for older houses and mastic or cement mortar for new houses outside. You can get draughts from light fittings, switches and sockets you can fit gaskets behind to stop draughts without disconnecting any wires.
didn't know about the two latches on UPVC windows, that's a great tip
Good to hear that. Yes if you've got them you should use them whenever possible. 👍
If you need heat at all during winter, a dehumidifier doesn't cost anything to run. It all converts into heat.
I sorted my condensation out on my bay windows at night by using a 36 inch tube electric heater that costs about 6p per hour as it’s 120 watts at 37p per kilowatt hour todays prices, so it runs for 17 hours and uses 2.2killowatts within that time so costing 82p per night which isn’t to bad as it’s working and I have to think of my health as I suffer from Asthma and respiratory allergies. The humidity was at 87% before using the heater and now it’s 57% most nights. I run it on a digital timer from 4pm as that’s sundown and it runs all night right through to 9am and it just sits on my window sill and since using it I’ve had zero condensation. My main bay window is double glazed 4x4 feet and the 2 side windows are half that size and I leave them slightly open all night only a tiny bit like 1cm and it’s completely solved my condensation on my bedroom windows so I hope this helps someone. I purchased the tube heater from Amazon and the digital timer.
Thanks for this very useful video. I have also learnt some of this stuff through experiencing overcoming these damp areas in my bungalow. As it is an older built building from the 1970's, there is a good amount of airflow due to having airbricks all round, thus ventilating underneath the floor, there is also a good airflow from the entrances being in use and from slight gaps under doors etc. The shower tips given also I have been using an open window and the surface squeeging and I can agree that this leaves the bathroom completely dry like you describe.
Spot on. We went for Positive pressure ventilation and it’s brilliant.
Great work 👍
Since watching this last year when researching dehumidifiers, I started religiously Karchering the bathroom after a shower!
Also bought an Ebac Smart dehumidifier and the difference has been staggering. The bedroom windows have been streamed with condensation for years in winter, but that's a thing of the past now.
We may get a quarter inch along the bottom edge on a really cold morning but that's it.
Thanks for these videos Charlie, our previously damp, mouldy front bedroom on the N side is bone dry and ready to redecorate now the moisture is under control. Awesome stuff!
The only thing I want to ask is the advice on keeping a window open, if the outdoor humidity is 90% aren't you simply adding to the indoor levels by letting that in?
Found this video from the TH-cam algorithm, excellent work, earned a like an sub 👏
Thanks Jimmy, really appreciate the comment, and of course the sub. Great to have you on board 👊
this explains why i'm currently never below 78% humidity now i don't have the heating on. windows open all day wrapped up warm but now i know the cold means it's kind of a false reading.
Another brilliant video @CharlieDIYte, thank you! It all seems a bit odd to me though: the huge effort to insulate and draught-proof homes, which comes at a financial and environmental cost, to then have to leave windows open or pump fresh air in with a PIV. Only heat-recovery ventilation makes sense to me from this perspective.
I loved this video. Finally someone who is giving very relevant information at this time.
Thanks Zain - really chuffed you found it useful. 👊
Great video as always. Very thoughtful. I’ve recently had new double glazing but I couldn’t work out why I’ve got some much water build up. But this explain it! Stop closing Roman blinds or open the trickle vent.
With regards to dying washing in the house, I use a tower fan next to the clothes horse and have it pointing to the window that's slightly open.
Great advice. I’ve been using smart devices to both monitor the air and also trigger events to happen. I.e if humidity drops below 40% the extractor in cellar turns off or on, saving energy!
If humidity is high in the bedroom my phone alert us me to crack the window etc.
Also got a PIV which is great but creates a cold draft.
What's smart humidity sensors you using? All via smart home/Google home? Be interested to know your system...
@@donien3113 Id like to know too!
@@donien3113 I’m using Aqara sensors which are relatively cheap. I’m on Apple HomeKit. I use Shelly modules which you can wire to your devices to make them smart.
Holy Smoke!!!
I saw another video of yours the other day and was impressed with the content of the information you shared.
Moreover, I had never seen the squeegee vac before.
That afternoon, I ordered one and received it a couple days later, and I have to tell you, it was a great purchase.
Thank you for the very valuable information you shared.
Glad you like it. It's a game changer isn't it! Great in the shower too
I bought specifically for the shower.
Informative as ever. We have single pane glazing in our house and the Kercher window vac is a must in winter, I’m surprised every time by how much it collects
I’ve read that the Germans accomplish low humidity by opening all their windows and doors daily to bring the dry air in. Can’t see them doing it this winter with gas prices the way they are!
I was given a piece of valuable advice a few years ago and have always followed it. If the weather outside does not allow you to dry your washing then you should close your windows, otherwise keep them open as much as you can.
They do it without fail!
Just to say I bought the drimaster 2000 with heat some time ago for a victorian house. If you have damp or water running down your windows this is truly a game changer. You will need a qualified electrician to install it but it was worth every penny.
Great work. PIVs are superb aren't they. Tempted to install one here too. 👍
I think it’s worth adding that the most economic heat pump drier will be better than a dehumidifier and my Bosch one has a drain pipe option so no more emptying the water tank
That's brilliant. Thanks for the tip. 👊
Salt in a dish on the window sill helps as does cat litter in a sock ...keep these videos coming Charlie very informative 👏
Thanks👍
I have tried that using moisture absorber crystals it never worked still had moisture on my windows in the morning.
Many thanks Charlie after weeks and weeks of searching I found your video is by far the most in-depth and comprehensive on you tube that not only explains the issue but also offers a full range of technical solutions on this subject brilliantly thanks …. Although now I have the knowledge…. I have to implement it lol😅
Thanks Stephen. Really chuffed you found it useful. Good luck with getting your situation under control. 👍
I've just bought a dehumidifier, hopefully this should help with drying laundry, especially on wet days without running the tumble dryer too long.
It will. You'll wish you bought it years ago. 👊
A few years ago I moved into the ground floor apartment of a well insulated, new build, apartment block. Damp and mould would accumulate in the lower hallway around front door and around the front windows. I installed a dehumidifier capable of of extracting 25 litres of water per day. For around 3 weeks, that’s exactly what it did, extract 25 litres, daily. I leave it on permanently. 5 years later it is still extracting 10 litres a day. All traces of damp and mould have vanished. I have it set to 40% humidity, unless I’m drying laundry then it is set to ‘laundry mode’ it works by drawing in air at room. Cooling that air via a compressor causing water to be dumped into a collection bin. It then reheats that cooled air prior to expelling it. I estimate the running cost to be around 35 per month. But, the manufacturer claims that the running cost is actually not that high as the rest of electrical equipment in the apartment will run more efficiently in the dryer conditions.
I noticed how long my kettle was boiling and the amount of steam it was putting out so just bought a variable temp kettle - setting it to 90 degrees makes such a massive difference, and im sure will save a ton of money on lekky too.
I like it - great work 👌👏
Try a hob kettle. If you have a gas hob it is cheaper, plus it starts whistling before it's completely boiled
I moved into a 1926 single skin build house where the previous owners had (thirty+ years ago) installed a flat roof extension, concreted the driveway to the side (above the DPC and in contact with the full length of the main exterior wall of the house), installed wall to wall floor to ceiling fitted wardrobes in the two main bedrooms attached to the inside of the main exterior wall, fitted uPVC windows with no vents and used wallpaper on the inside of the main interior wall to attempt to insulate the wall internally.
I had to immediately remove the fitted wardrobes and wallpaper to expose the wall to the air as the wardrobe doors were warm but the walls were cold exacerbating the causes of damp you could smell the moment you walked into rooms.
Over the course of six years so far I have fitted a new bathroom with a good extractor fan to discharge moisture before it settles anywhere
Replaced all uPVC windows for new with trickle vents installed
Replaced any other wooden or aluminium framed windows and doors
Installed a nuaire PIV system with 400 watt heater in the loft above our landing myself
Placed a good dehumidifier in my kitchen where I tend to dry laundry (especially in winter) although my partner still occasionally puts laundry on the bannister despite my campaign for her to stop it. The dehumidifier drains directly to the kitchen sink.
I put Thermpro hygrometers in two rooms, one upstairs and one in the kitchen to keep tabs on humidity levels.
Last but not least I pulled up the concrete in contact with most of the exterior wall and installed a French drain in place as a short to medium term measure to stop the wall.whicking damp from the ground outside until I get the driveway done again.
New windows with vents, installing a French drain, removing fitted wardrobes and tanking wallpaper and installing a new bathroom were my drastic measures to combat issues as soon as I became aware of them.
All the other measures I took from your previous video on damp and this video with regards to PIV and each of them has had a really positive effect on the environment in my house.
I had never encountered this issue (to this extent) and have learned as I went along. The mitigations you raised in your videos helped me out no end and the results and lessons learned have informed my decision to instigate further mitigations as a result.
I decided, whilst I have the facility to do so, I will initiate larger works and get the whole house removed of render and covered in external wall insulation with a decent render finish.
Also the drive to front and side is being sorted with a new resin bound surface to take the level back below the DPC and create better managed drainage to the side.
So as well as having a nice looking house and warmer house I will have a house with really good mitigations in place which I intend to keep after the larger works are completed and it is many thanks to you for putting this information together so well.
Diolch.
Plus I will continue using you as a source of information for DIY which is a wonderful help to me.
Thank you so much! Moving to Europe this winter and have been looking at resolving the damp issues of older apartments. FYI, I could have used this information when I had an older house in New York State.
Thanks Carolyn, really appreciate the comment. 👍
Charlie epic vid, the points you made about insulation towards the end prove you know your stuff, good work/keep it up!
Really well presented and informative video. Reassured to know we are doing many things correctly in our old, damp stone cottage but equally have learned there are more (low cost) steps we can take to improve our living conditions, many thanks Charlie.
Thanks Julian, really appreciate that. The real silver bullet in retrofit is a PIV. 👌
Just an addendum on using the kitchen extractor fan; burning natural gas releases very large amounts of water vapour. Another reason to always use the extractor when cooking with gas. Which you always should do anyway as trapping combustion byproducts in your living space is far from ideal.
Good point 👊
Biggest thing I did was ditch my vented tumble dryer for a heat pump one
The main issue I have is 3 people sleep in the one so the dehumidifier is on a sleep setting, no more wet windows
Heat pump dryers are worse that vent ones, ask any repairman out there that specialises in them. They also break much quicker and replacement parts are a problem after warranty expires, especially the electronic board.
This is a great video. Realized were I've gone wrong trying to keep mold away over the years. Thanks very much.
You're welcome Ken. Thanks for the comment 👌
I love my heat pump dryer, amazing things.
I live in Sweden where relative humidity is lower I would say all houses here have a ventilation system. Mine is over forty years old, there is a vent fan in the roof which draws air from bathrooms, toilets, laundry rooms and even storage rooms. Most windows have a ventilator in the frame, I have never had condensation on any window and I have lived in this house almost twenty years. The only condensation I see is in autumn on the three new windows I bought ca 15 years ago but they are triple glazed with one vacuum panel and one with argon gas and the condensation forms outside! The ventilation fan runs 24/7 year in year out, most people here have squeegees in their showers. I tried to get my son to have an in-line loft fan connecting his two new bathrooms and running 24/7 but his installer fitted humidity controlled fans which are not particularly good, they only run for a few minutes and are noisy. Pretty much what you have talked about are standards here, so well done Charlie for this video.
I live in a rental property in Germany. New residents get a manual dictating how long to keep the windows open in each season. The flat has no other ventilation, even the cooker hood is just a filter that exhausts back into the kitchen.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the comment. We need that manual over here!
Also add that a gas cooker produces water vapour as a result of combustion. (Ie cooking without steem)
your videos are always amazing! Thank you fot them
Thanks so much. Chuffed you like them 👊