Just looked back on an older video of yours - you have come a long way! It’s so much easier to take in what you are saying now that the flashing lights and distracting background music has gone. Great tips. Thanks for being so clear.
I'm so glad this channel exists. I followed some of your advice from pervious videos and managed to reduce my hot water gas usage by quite a bit so I thought I'd share those tips in my own video a few weeks ago. It's became somewhat more popular than I expected though, and then I started getting loads of people complaining about my flow temperature and legionella advice! I'm very glad that I can point them to videos like this from true professionals to confirm what I say in my own video. A lot of them still don't believe me though and they get really angry! Oh well. Modern internet, eh? Keep up the excellent work.
Great video to see the lagging clips mentioned. My local merchant laughed at me for ages when I mentioned them and lagging glue! Defo get insulating those airing cupboard pipes.
IF you can get under your floor floor, buy some insulation for between the joists. To hold it up, simply get some plastic netting , and staple it up to the joists as you unroll it . ( messy job though, but worth it .) You might also want to put a reflective foil insulating layer under your carpets , when replacing them. Buy a roll of insulated foil and slot it behind radiators on outside walls particularly , but also on the room you heat the most , to stop heat transferring to other cooler rooms . Use Pot Lids when cooking, you will be amazed how much you can turn down the heat and still keep a pot boiling you put on a pot lid. Otherwise that extra heat is just heating your kitchen . Turn the heat down on a boiling pot until it just stops boiling, then put on a pot lid, it will start to boil again, then turn it down again until it is just boiling and no more . Remember, the water does NOT get any hotter once it has boiled, it just evaporates quicker ( and so does your bank balance:( Test it with a glass pot lid, it’s easier to see the water boiling . As was stated, put on layers , if you have cold feet , buy better insulating socks, or just wear several pairs. Good luck this winter , we might get lucky and get a mild one .
Good tips! As for keeping feet warm, put up your feet/legs! I've diy-ed a box, put 4 caster wheels under them and put a 50mm thing foam on top. Together with a winter sleeping bag, you can quickly get in, roll the fooftstool under the legs and it'll keep you warm down to 10⁰C! Also, not only wear multiple socks, wear multiple pants, ie put a sweatpants under the trousers for example. Best way to keep warm is putting a cap on your head. 25% of body heat is lost through the head, depending how much hair you have.
Heating engineer and plumber here ….well done for what you are doing 👍 Every house I go into I’m doing the same. Shouldn’t be down to us though as many people needed this stuff from April and government should have been helping improve education around easy efficiency savings years ago ( if thats what they truly cared about 🤔)
We have no central heating and have an open fire. I have thermally lined the curtains and draught curtains, draught sealed doors and windows ( no double glazing). I have made blankets for every chair and have a strap on hot water bottle over thick jumper. Any plug in heater is only used if washing is also being dried on rainy days- always has to do two jobs. We sit in whichever room washing is being dried! We are old and remember surviving such times in the 50s. Have in the past put newspaper between blankets but it gets a bit noisy!
The government should be sending professionals out to every home to run these checks and set up peoples houses properly. It would cause a significant reduction in energy usage and cost over winter.
Could be done as part of an EPC type assesment with heat loss calculations with recommendations on any improvements necessary to redesign the heating system for a 55 degree flow temp.
Why do people always think that it’s down to the government to manage their day to day lives? It’s not that hard to use a little bit of common sense and do this for yourself.is it?
@@HeatGeek within my role as a home energy Assessor I'm always pushing for people to maximise the efficency of their heating systems putting into practice what you preach. One concern I have is in properties where the radiators weren't uprated when a non-condensing boiler was replaced. Is there an easy calculation to work out the payback time from upgrading radiators if it allows a lower average flow temperature and thus increased boiler efficiency?
Good advice but also insulation is good. I topped up the loft insulation several years ago from 4" when I bought the house to 12", had double glazing fitted, both while I was working and a new condensing boiler after taking early retirement. Bought pipe insulation for underneath the floorboards where the central heating pipes run in the downstairs front room. I put a new roof on the extension and put loft insulation in with tongue and groove board ceiling. I plan to do the rear kitchen wall like this. I put in a new bath and altered the plasterboard layout so filled the cavity with loft insulation. 15°C in this bedroom with no heating and Sun streaming through the window making a nice almost 21°C in the Sun. Wearing a T shirt, jumper, jeans, socks and bedroom slippers. 3 LED bulbs and some CFL lamps when they were going cheap at 10p each, I guess to get LED ones in stock.
What is your view concerning legionella in the pipes? I'm from the Netherlands and everyone here advices to leave the warm tap water setting on at least 55, but mostly on 60 to prevent legionella in the pipes in the house or other buildings. Also without a storage unit where the water is stored in.
Dishwasher and thermocouples aren’t what most people struggling to heat or eat have. Great, engaging content, for those that don’t need space heating yet and have had years to electrify their hot water. Best of luck!
The only issue with this is the ACOPL8 states that stored water (water tank), should be stored at 60°C or above to prevent Legionella bacteria growth. Obviously, most domestic properties have enough turnover of water daily to prevent any growth buildup. But, if you leave your home empty for any particular length of time, I would fully recommend pasteurising your system (turning up the boiler and cylinder thermostat to maximum to ramp the temperature right up to kill any potential growth in the system). I will be following the advice given here and hopefully saving myself a small fortune over the winter months, I am even building some terracotta room heaters to place strategically around the house to get some cheap off-grid heat 👍🏻
Hi I have a Protterton Promax Combi HE plus boiler which are the best money saving settings to have, I live in a HMO and only have three rads, Living room, bedroom and bathroom (towel rail) Bath with tap shower and bathroom sink My current settings are… This Radiators 55 Hot water 56 Could I possibly get more efficient, changing my settings. I only have 3 double glazed windows and sandwich between ground floor and second floor with 2 external walls in living room and bedroom. Any advice would be great Thanks 🙏
It is at least once in a week recommended to push the heat to over 65°C because of legionella, it is dangerous to keep the temperature at 50°C. Thats why seperate heat pumps for your warm water have the legionella mode to heat the water once in a week over 65°.
Cheap win win tip put the reflective/Mirror film on you Windows where you spend most time, living Room ect. I get the Sun blazing for about 8 hours straight direct on my Living Room Windows in the Summer and it does help to keep the room a little cooler by reflecting some of the Heat away and i swear it helps some with heat loss in the Winter months too.
If you don't happen to have a "Chimney Balloon" handy , old pillow/rags in a plastic sack does the trick. Draft seal round the loft hatch too, often missed out. Thin Reflective insulation stuck to the wall behind radiators if they are on outside walls. ( can be done with rad in position with stick & double sided tape)
Great point on thr chimney balloons! Reflective insulation onnthe wall behind the rads only has an effect on solid wall buildings and even then is absolutely tiny
Shoving old pillows or whatever can create mould/damp issues as it isn't breathable (assuming this fireplace is in a period property) you want to look into Chimney Sheep as they are wool
Nice video 👍 My combi hot water has been set at 40° permanently for years ✔️ I turn my boiler off unless I need hot water so it's not running all the time, this may be a mistake? Off all night, I rarely use central heating. Electric shower, no gas hot water required ✔️ I tried turning down radiators in empty rooms, they're stuck.
Thanks for the videos. I have a condensing boiler and only 2 of us are in this 4 bedroom house. I've set my lounge thermostat to 19.5 (and the lounge TRVs to 20.5 so they don't interfere with the thermostat). I've set all my other TRVs to 17.5. We are retired so plan to leave the heating on all the time from late autumn through winter. At bedtime, I plan to set the thermostat to 17.5 and back to 19.5 when I get up. Does my thinking look like I have understood your recommendations? I will be tweaking my flow temperature over the next few days. Thanks for your help.
Hi all. See here for updates. ----------------- Do NOT block working chimneys ------‐---------- Join 'Heat Geeks Heating Help for Homeowners" on Facebook for bespoke advice on YOUR specific system. ------------- If you have a Worcester. Central heating control dial/settings give; 1 = approx 35⁰c 2 = approx 43⁰c 3 = approx 50⁰c 4 = approx 60⁰c 5 = approx 67⁰c 6 = approx 75⁰c Max = approx 90⁰c Hot water Min = approx 40⁰c e = approx 50⁰c Max = approx 60⁰c ----------------- If you don't have or can't afford a chimney balloon use an old duvet. ----------------- Turn eco-mode ON to turn off hot water preheat on combis ---------------- If you have electric heating or oil please follow the non condensing boiler advice.
I want part 2 with only complicated ways to reduce your energy bills like undervolting your CPUs and GPUs, linking your heat pump to your fridge and freezer to utilise the cold, putting vanta black rugs in front of south facing windows etc
Before you put jumper on think about getting bass layer thermals. I have some of those skin tight sport ones they work really well to keep drafts away from waist and sleeves, then if you put a slightly bigger set thicker set over that and then a slightly bigger one again ect, you get 2 or 3 layers in under a normal shirt. Putting larger items like jumper sweater or hoodies on should be later resort as they start getting more in the way of what your doing day to day like the sleeves when you're doing stuff in the kitchen or doing some stretches or exercises maybe. Bass layers feel a lot more casual. Just important to find a material mix that feels comfortable for that first layer and stretches on right.
If your combi also runs your shower , turning the water temperature down may make your shower cool rather than hot. But , a SHORT cool shower is good enough , and saves money.
Hi, great video as always. BAXI 836 Combi 1 year old. When I turn the hot water temp down to 43° on my Nest thermostat the boiler reading always shows around 10°higher. Why.? Called Baxi technical who stated the combi will struggle to maintain a low temp. Do other boilers have this temperature difference?
When you say “Don’t fit a hive” can you give a reason why please. I had a new 28CDi fitted in March 22 with Hive. I have it to kick in when it gets below 16 degrees with a min temp of 14. Boiler flow set at 42 for heating and 38 for hot water. 3 bed detached 1 occupant so I’ll just put a jumper on if I get a bit cold. 😁
@@HeatGeek excellent video. Now I understand that on/off is not efficient and need a modulating thermostat. Not good for the boiler to be turning on and off all the time. Thanks and keep up the great work with these videos. 👍
Any chance of a video aimed at those of us with oil fired heating? I live in country bumpkin land so no gas. I also don’t have a spare £15k lying around for ASHP.
The part about condensing boilers still applies to oil, you still get condensing oil boilers, granted most don't modulate anywhere near as much as gas boilers but there are a few new models out now that do. The dew point is slightly different on oil boilers as it is on gas but reducing flow temp will still improve efficiency. Everything on this video is still applicable. Im always impressed how confident people are commenting on topics they know little about.
I have an old cast iron floor standing heat only boiler. I need to upgrade as its probably less than 60% efficient. Would you recommend removing the cylinder and installing a viessmann 111-w combi?
Regarding tip #3: reduce the heating time until there is not quite enough hot water, then slightly increase heating time. I have reduced water heating time to 10 minutes once per day in the summer and 10 minutes twice per day in the winter.
@@A2Z1Two3 errr ... yes, though I was talking about *water* heating time. I don't usually wear a fleece or jumper (or anything else) when having a bath! 🤣
@@HeatGeek thanks for responding. I appreciate what you are saying. Personally, I do not need a full tank of hot water just for me. That's why 10-20 mins water heating per day is sufficient for me. On the very few occasions I need more hot water, there is a one-hour boost button on the controller. :-)
UK council's made a massive mistake in loads of homes by putting thermostats in passage's, the coldest part of the house so the other rooms are like ovens. Also, some council's say you CANNOT fit draught excluders? I've opened my chimney and using that this winter, £30 for a fire grate, £40 for some fire bricks, £18 for chimney sweeping rods from Argos, and loads of free wood everywhere.
You mentioned in one of the tips not to buy a Hive. What is the reason for this? The house we just moved into has Hive, is it something that I should prioritise switching out for something like a Nest, or is it only for specific circumstances you don’t recommend Hive? We have a combi boiler if that makes a difference
I want to know this too. I swapped mine to a hive last year and been generally quite happy with. Like that I can program it on my phone and not in the dark airing cupboard, with minimal space and a very unintuitive three button user interface that was my old Honeywell 😂
Great video. Quick question I adjusted my DHW temp on my vaillant boiler to 40 c Now when I run my hot taps, the temp isn't constant it's fluctuates between 40 and 55. Shouldn't the boiler be able to maintain a constant 40 degrees? I can here it starting and stopping as the temp fluctuates. Is this exspected behaviour. Thansk
Watching from Canada so very little applies but I am interested in the temperatures that you recommend for the boiler (I think that's what we call a hot water tank) and the reference to legionella. Never heard of that. New tanks automatically have a default setting at 60 C, but we are encouraged to lower the temperature by about 10 C for cost savings and efficiency.
I went up to 55C on the flow temp at the start of October. I base that change from 45C on when the 1 or 2 C lift required in the office in the morning starts to take longer than an hour radiator time. I currently just eye-ball the graphs, but I intend to start recording the actual delta for rooms and at least factor in "demand time per degree delta". What I really need is a gas flow sensor installed to actually monitor the gas usage as runtime doesn't account for the boiler trickery.
In the media, there's a lot of advice about turning off radiators in unused rooms (which on a side note is bad advice because they never state to leave the rad on in the room where the stat is!). Is there a point where this becomes inefficient? Maybe you could do a video on this, for example, turning off all upstairs rads and only heating downstairs (obviously with room stat downstairs)? Love your channel, best I've ever seen regarding home heating. Thanks
Ok, here’s my question:- I would appreciate any well thought out response. I live in a very well insulated, ground floor apartment. The apartment block is new build, or at least it was when I moved in, 9 years ago. The building is gas free! My apartment is fitted with storage heaters and I subscribe to an economy 7 tariff. I understand fully the principle and pros and cons of storage heating. The main issue is that in order to maximise the efficiency of storage heating, you need to be a first rate weather forecaster. You need to know tomorrow’s weather in order to correctly set up your heaters the evening previous evening. I only have 1 storage heater permanently running during the winter months. It is located in my hallway, which is 10 feet wide and 25 feet long. My lounge, kitchen, bathroom, utility room and 2 bedrooms all open into this hallway, as does my front door which opens onto the street. If I leave all internal doors open, that 3kw storage heater is usually man enough to maintain the whole apartment at a comfortable temperature. But sometimes additional heat is needed. I don’t employ any of the other storage heaters, they are too slow to react. As a back up in my lounge I have a 2kw dry core radiator. In the large bedroom a 2kw oil filled radiator. In the small bedroom 12 feet by 11 feet I have a 0.6kw infrared panel and in the bathroom a heated towel rail. Both radiators have an independent thermostat and a separate power control which can be set for 0.6kw, 1.4kw or 2kw. I tend to leave them both set to 0.6kw which would appear to be sufficient to maintain the required temperature. Obviously the thermostat is clicking on and off. If, I were to leave the thermostat exactly as it is, but adjust the power control to a higher setting, would this make my radiators more efficient as I will be reducing the amount of time the thermostat is on, as the higher current will cause more rapid reheating. Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.
For people with PV, it's possible to install measuring devices that run the boiler to higher temps as long as there is un used PV energy. Saves electricity and most important the tax and transport costs.
Great video. Excellent information as always..I tell everyone to watch your channel and what you are trying to acheive in terms of your Heat Geek network of installers.
Another great video Quick question on timing hot water. I have always told my customer that if they had a well insulated hot water cylinder that they would be better off leaving the hot water on permanently. As this stops the cooling affect of cold water coming in when the hot isn’t on and cooling down the remaining hot water left in the cylinder. I have a combi at home, so can’t test this. But I had asked some of my customer with unvented well insulated cylinder and smart meter to try it in the summer when the heating wouldn’t affect the gas bill and all have said there gas usage is less when it not timed. Maybe you guy could look in to this one Thanks Andy
Hi great video. I have a Santon Premier Plus and cannot find the hot water thermostat anywhere? I did lower the temperature for flow on the boiler though.
You mention that you may need to increase your flow rate if "you've given your boiler enough time to hear the house" if you have a 3 bed semi detached medium sized house, how long is enough time to give your boiler a chance to warm the house?
As always 'if depends'. First of all don't touch the flow rate (which you ajust at the pump) adjust the flow temperature. As a rough rule lets give it an hour but you can time your heating to turn on earlier to account for this.
I tried to turn off the pre-heat function on the combi, as mentioned in tip 3. I followed the user manual. A P shows on the digital screen to indicate it’s off, but it still fires up a few times a day including waking me up at midnight 🤦♀️ I’ll try it again!
Havent a clue what that contraption was that you were measuring temperature on! We just have a boiler in the utility that is a box, with a digital temp setting for the water to the rads & immersion. What temp should it be set to?
What type of boiler do you have? You could have a Combi boiler with hot water cylinder via Hot Water priority setup too..(its uncommon but not impossible)
When we cook, we put the stove off as soon as possible, then serve the meal and draw the heat from the remnants of the cooking pan or frying pan and feed it into our central heating through a custom build system. Fully cooked food contains an enourmous amount of heat and Joules that can be drained.. The suction system, we actually catch that heat to use again and circulate it..
This is an excellent contents and a well concise video.i liked every bit of your explanation, it shows there's a lot I must do if I want to be proficient with my trades.
When ever I watch his videos, I feel the motivation and it drive me to learn how to trade although am taking gradual steps towards under standing the mrket
I turn my boiler stat so that after the boiler has struck up for CH and has reached a steady state, the temp of the return pipe is about 53° as if it's above 54° then it's not condensing fully efficiently
You mentioned not to get a Hive. What’s the story there? I got a free Nest that I never got around to installing from my electricity supplier. Is Nest better? Thanks.
Seen a cup with your logo on it in local builders merchants yesterday 😂👍🏻 the good word is spreading! What’s the reason you say don’t install a hive? Just curious. Thanks mate.
Very important to bump up the temperature from time to time if you reduce it below 60C...and run through the pipes as well. He only mentions legionella in passing, but it can hurt your health and in serious cases actually kill you!
At 4:00 you say to turn OFF the Eco mode as it will keep the temp up but that is at odds with what the manual says. ECONOMY MODE, ECO BUTTON LIT • The water is not heated up until a hot water tap is turned on The alternative is something called comfort mode which does what you say and keeps it topped up: COMFORT MODE, ECO BUTTON IS NOT LIT (DEFAULT SETTING) The appliance is held constantly at the set temperature. This means that hot water is available almost instantaneously at the tap. Consequently the appliance will switch on at intervals, even if no hot water is being drawn. This is form the Worcester Greenstar manual
I’ve got an old Ideal Logic + Heat 18, it seems to have an e-function on the hot water boiler temperature. Would you go by this or would you reduce it closer towards the min setting? It seems very basic as there’s no other adjustments. 13-year-old condenser boiler!
I have a modern WB condensing boiler and I can set the flow temperature of the CH, however, the service engineer said setting it low would cause too much cycling?
I have a regular condensing boiler coupled with a boiler mate 2000 - any recommendations for people like me who don't really have access to all the control stuff you stated. Many thanks :)
Tip no.4 flow restrictors...it's a no no for combi boilers,if you have low flow,and non condensing boiler(and even on condensing boiler sometime).the control of hot water will be difficult the boiler will shut off and on,and the water will be too hot then too cold.taking a shower in this condition....
I am watching this video in the winter with no heating on and wearing several jumpers on top of each other plus blanket. Because the house we just moved into has a 20+ year old boiler that we can't afford to run due to the shocking inefficiency 😂
I think the main issue with British housing is lack of insulation and high humidity in the winter. In Northern Ontario Canada we use forced air heating and wood stoves, our homes have way more insulation, I have over two feet of insulation in my attic and windows have triple glass. Also our homes get very dry in the winter so that we add humidity to the home. If home owners spent some time adding insulation to their home they wouldn’t have to buy so much energy.
I see you recommended tado but then I heard the v3 ruined everything as it doesn’t do load balancing (I might have totally cocked up the terminology there, sorry I’m ignorant).
That's weird, In the Netherlands they advice to not lower the hot tap water to below 60 degrees Celsius due to Legionella. So what is it? 50 or 60 degrees?
I have 280mm loft insulation in about 75% of the space and need to lift boards to raise the 25%. What is the maximum safe depth for loft insulation? I also have cold spots where I have fire hoods over the downlighting. Is there a 60 minute rated downlight I can use without the fire hoods? Which I have 26.
Get rid of subscriptions services as to save money i.e. sky, Bt etc...broadband, tether instead, works great and saves money. Buy candles in case electricity is turned off.
Regarding adjusting your boiler flow temperature to the minimum you can get away with throughout the year, I noticed afterwards you mentioned if you have a weather compensation control boiler “it does all that for you”. I have a Baxi 400 combo boiler with Tado smart thermostat which has a weather compensation feature. What option is most efficient: Should I be adjusting the flow rate manually to the minimum I can get away with (60) with the Tado modulating between a smaller range of flow rates or leave the flow rate at max (80) and allow my Tado to modulate with the full range of flow rates available to it?
My friend the government has been doing this since the beginning with prices of oil … solar energy or geothermal power would have been the best option if you can afford it that it and you would be able to sell energy back to the government for a cheap price not a whole lot to make .. but it’s the saving in the long run as you will have no more bills for energy/electricity and you won’t need to worry about much about prices of oil or propane gas to keep your house warm
In my council flat, I have a combi with digital screen ours are set for 58degrees, I tried to change it but when they came out to do the boiler check they said the water must be set over 50 degrees as you can get legionnaires disease if not?
I have a question about the Eco mode on my combi boiler. In other videos is says turn ON the Eco mode because without it the boiler intermittently comes on. I noticed that was the case with mine - that when the button was off the boiler randomly came on at different times, now I've pressed the button, it doesn't. Please can you clarify. Thanks.
Not sure what you mean by 'range rating' as I have not heard of that before. I do not have a boiler with a menu so I might not be able to do anything with that. However, I did wonder if the boiler I have was overrated for my small house. Sometimes it seems like it can only just heat the water to fill a bath when it is winter time, but that could be because it is just designed for a fixed 55 degree temperature for the hot water - it is a Worcester Bosch Greenstar and I think it was the 28i junior not the 24i junior. There is no setting for the hot water (tap) temperature, only for the radiator temperature. Maybe newer boilers have some extra settings for the tap water, and what you are saying about the 'range rating'?
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Just looked back on an older video of yours - you have come a long way! It’s so much easier to take in what you are saying now that the flashing lights and distracting background music has gone. Great tips. Thanks for being so clear.
Thanks wendy
I'm so glad this channel exists. I followed some of your advice from pervious videos and managed to reduce my hot water gas usage by quite a bit so I thought I'd share those tips in my own video a few weeks ago. It's became somewhat more popular than I expected though, and then I started getting loads of people complaining about my flow temperature and legionella advice! I'm very glad that I can point them to videos like this from true professionals to confirm what I say in my own video. A lot of them still don't believe me though and they get really angry! Oh well. Modern internet, eh? Keep up the excellent work.
Great video to see the lagging clips mentioned. My local merchant laughed at me for ages when I mentioned them and lagging glue! Defo get insulating those airing cupboard pipes.
Until u try and find a leak
I followed all your advice and now I’m spending 1% of what i did before! Thanks Heat Geek!
Sounds about right 😎
IF you can get under your floor floor, buy some insulation for between the joists. To hold it up, simply get some plastic netting , and staple it up to the joists as you unroll it . ( messy job though, but worth it .)
You might also want to put a reflective foil insulating layer under your carpets , when replacing them.
Buy a roll of insulated foil and slot it behind radiators on outside walls particularly , but also on the room you heat the most , to stop heat transferring to other cooler rooms .
Use Pot Lids when cooking, you will be amazed how much you can turn down the heat and still keep a pot boiling you put on a pot lid. Otherwise that extra heat is just heating your kitchen .
Turn the heat down on a boiling pot until it just stops boiling, then put on a pot lid, it will start to boil again, then turn it down again until it is just boiling and no more . Remember, the water does NOT get any hotter once it has boiled, it just evaporates quicker ( and so does your bank balance:(
Test it with a glass pot lid, it’s easier to see the water boiling .
As was stated, put on layers , if you have cold feet , buy better insulating socks, or just wear several pairs.
Good luck this winter , we might get lucky and get a mild one .
Great advice. Bit about the netting sounds good. Thankyou
Good tips! As for keeping feet warm, put up your feet/legs! I've diy-ed a box, put 4 caster wheels under them and put a 50mm thing foam on top. Together with a winter sleeping bag, you can quickly get in, roll the fooftstool under the legs and it'll keep you warm down to 10⁰C!
Also, not only wear multiple socks, wear multiple pants, ie put a sweatpants under the trousers for example.
Best way to keep warm is putting a cap on your head. 25% of body heat is lost through the head, depending how much hair you have.
Heating engineer and plumber here ….well done for what you are doing 👍 Every house I go into I’m doing the same.
Shouldn’t be down to us though as many people needed this stuff from April and government should have been helping improve education around easy efficiency savings years ago ( if thats what they truly cared about 🤔)
We have no central heating and have an open fire. I have thermally lined the curtains and draught curtains, draught sealed doors and windows ( no double glazing). I have made blankets for every chair and have a strap on hot water bottle over thick jumper. Any plug in heater is only used if washing is also being dried on rainy days- always has to do two jobs. We sit in whichever room washing is being dried! We are old and remember surviving such times in the 50s. Have in the past put newspaper between blankets but it gets a bit noisy!
The production quality and editing is amazing.
Feels like this is 1m+ sub channel.
The government should be sending professionals out to every home to run these checks and set up peoples houses properly. It would cause a significant reduction in energy usage and cost over winter.
And they can find the team to do it in heat geek dot com slash find a heat geek
Could be done as part of an EPC type assesment with heat loss calculations with recommendations on any improvements necessary to redesign the heating system for a 55 degree flow temp.
Why do people always think that it’s down to the government to manage their day to day lives? It’s not that hard to use a little bit of common sense and do this for yourself.is it?
@@HeatGeek within my role as a home energy Assessor I'm always pushing for people to maximise the efficency of their heating systems putting into practice what you preach. One concern I have is in properties where the radiators weren't uprated when a non-condensing boiler was replaced. Is there an easy calculation to work out the payback time from upgrading radiators if it allows a lower average flow temperature and thus increased boiler efficiency?
@@ryanjames2962 these thi gs aren't common knowledge or common sense though. Unfortunately.
Good advice but also insulation is good.
I topped up the loft insulation several years ago from 4" when I bought the house to 12", had double glazing fitted, both while I was working and a new condensing boiler after taking early retirement. Bought pipe insulation for underneath the floorboards where the central heating pipes run in the downstairs front room. I put a new roof on the extension and put loft insulation in with tongue and groove board ceiling. I plan to do the rear kitchen wall like this. I put in a new bath and altered the plasterboard layout so filled the cavity with loft insulation.
15°C in this bedroom with no heating and Sun streaming through the window making a nice almost 21°C in the Sun. Wearing a T shirt, jumper, jeans, socks and bedroom slippers.
3 LED bulbs and some CFL lamps when they were going cheap at 10p each, I guess to get LED ones in stock.
What is your view concerning legionella in the pipes? I'm from the Netherlands and everyone here advices to leave the warm tap water setting on at least 55, but mostly on 60 to prevent legionella in the pipes in the house or other buildings. Also without a storage unit where the water is stored in.
Video being recorded on that right now!
Hi Erik, dat was óók míjn eerste gedachte! 😎
@@rredding Klopt, deze gast lijkt er geen drol van te smappen. heatgeek is meer heatgek.
Dishwasher and thermocouples aren’t what most people struggling to heat or eat have. Great, engaging content, for those that don’t need space heating yet and have had years to electrify their hot water. Best of luck!
1:30 I know you wouldn't normally consume water from hot tap but it's safe practice to keep water temp at 50 or above to prevent Legionnaires disease
The only issue with this is the ACOPL8 states that stored water (water tank), should be stored at 60°C or above to prevent Legionella bacteria growth. Obviously, most domestic properties have enough turnover of water daily to prevent any growth buildup. But, if you leave your home empty for any particular length of time, I would fully recommend pasteurising your system (turning up the boiler and cylinder thermostat to maximum to ramp the temperature right up to kill any potential growth in the system). I will be following the advice given here and hopefully saving myself a small fortune over the winter months, I am even building some terracotta room heaters to place strategically around the house to get some cheap off-grid heat 👍🏻
Fantastic video this buddy! Plenty of very useful tips and also explanations of what to do if the alterations dont suit the user! 👏👏👏
Hi
I have a Protterton Promax Combi HE plus boiler which are the best money saving settings to have, I live in a HMO and only have three rads, Living room, bedroom and bathroom (towel rail) Bath with tap shower and bathroom sink
My current settings are… This
Radiators 55
Hot water 56
Could I possibly get more efficient, changing my settings.
I only have 3 double glazed windows and sandwich between ground floor and second floor with 2 external walls in living room and bedroom.
Any advice would be great Thanks 🙏
It is at least once in a week recommended to push the heat to over 65°C because of legionella, it is dangerous to keep the temperature at 50°C. Thats why seperate heat pumps for your warm water have the legionella mode to heat the water once in a week over 65°.
Cheap win win tip put the reflective/Mirror film on you Windows where you spend most time, living Room ect.
I get the Sun blazing for about 8 hours straight direct on my Living Room Windows in the Summer and it does help to keep the room a little cooler by reflecting some of the Heat away and i swear it helps some with heat loss in the Winter months too.
If you don't happen to have a "Chimney Balloon" handy , old pillow/rags in a plastic sack does the trick. Draft seal round the loft hatch too, often missed out. Thin Reflective insulation stuck to the wall behind radiators if they are on outside walls. ( can be done with rad in position with stick & double sided tape)
Great point on thr chimney balloons! Reflective insulation onnthe wall behind the rads only has an effect on solid wall buildings and even then is absolutely tiny
Shoving old pillows or whatever can create mould/damp issues as it isn't breathable (assuming this fireplace is in a period property) you want to look into Chimney Sheep as they are wool
@@ozoko Thanks , The Sheep look good .
Some interesting guides but I'd question the hot water thermo being set at 50 degrees due to storage versus distribution times.
Nice video 👍
My combi hot water has been set at 40° permanently for years ✔️
I turn my boiler off unless I need hot water so it's not running all the time, this may be a mistake? Off all night, I rarely use central heating.
Electric shower, no gas hot water required ✔️
I tried turning down radiators in empty rooms, they're stuck.
Thanks for the videos.
I have a condensing boiler and only 2 of us are in this 4 bedroom house.
I've set my lounge thermostat to 19.5 (and the lounge TRVs to 20.5 so they don't interfere with the thermostat). I've set all my other TRVs to 17.5. We are retired so plan to leave the heating on all the time from late autumn through winter. At bedtime, I plan to set the thermostat to 17.5 and back to 19.5 when I get up. Does my thinking look like I have understood your recommendations?
I will be tweaking my flow temperature over the next few days.
Thanks for your help.
Hi all. See here for updates.
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Do NOT block working chimneys
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Join 'Heat Geeks Heating Help for Homeowners" on Facebook for bespoke advice on YOUR specific system.
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If you have a Worcester.
Central heating control dial/settings give;
1 = approx 35⁰c
2 = approx 43⁰c
3 = approx 50⁰c
4 = approx 60⁰c
5 = approx 67⁰c
6 = approx 75⁰c
Max = approx 90⁰c
Hot water
Min = approx 40⁰c
e = approx 50⁰c
Max = approx 60⁰c
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If you don't have or can't afford a chimney balloon use an old duvet.
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Turn eco-mode ON to turn off hot water preheat on combis
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If you have electric heating or oil please follow the non condensing boiler advice.
I want part 2 with only complicated ways to reduce your energy bills like undervolting your CPUs and GPUs, linking your heat pump to your fridge and freezer to utilise the cold, putting vanta black rugs in front of south facing windows etc
Before you put jumper on think about getting bass layer thermals. I have some of those skin tight sport ones they work really well to keep drafts away from waist and sleeves, then if you put a slightly bigger set thicker set over that and then a slightly bigger one again ect, you get 2 or 3 layers in under a normal shirt. Putting larger items like jumper sweater or hoodies on should be later resort as they start getting more in the way of what your doing day to day like the sleeves when you're doing stuff in the kitchen or doing some stretches or exercises maybe. Bass layers feel a lot more casual. Just important to find a material mix that feels comfortable for that first layer and stretches on right.
If your combi also runs your shower , turning the water temperature down may make your shower cool rather than hot. But , a SHORT cool shower is good enough , and saves money.
Hi, great video as always. BAXI 836 Combi 1 year old. When I turn the hot water temp down to 43° on my Nest thermostat the boiler reading always shows around 10°higher. Why.? Called Baxi technical who stated the combi will struggle to maintain a low temp. Do other boilers have this temperature difference?
When you say “Don’t fit a hive” can you give a reason why please. I had a new 28CDi fitted in March 22 with Hive. I have it to kick in when it gets below 16 degrees with a min temp of 14. Boiler flow set at 42 for heating and 38 for hot water. 3 bed detached 1 occupant so I’ll just put a jumper on if I get a bit cold. 😁
Yes, please watch our 'must watch this before choosing a smart stat' video
@@HeatGeek excellent video. Now I understand that on/off is not efficient and need a modulating thermostat. Not good for the boiler to be turning on and off all the time. Thanks and keep up the great work with these videos. 👍
@@HeatGeek but is our green star worcester bosch modulating?
Yes it is a fully modulating boiler
Any chance of a video aimed at those of us with oil fired heating? I live in country bumpkin land so no gas. I also don’t have a spare £15k lying around for ASHP.
I second this comment.
All of it applies just not the bit about condensing boilers. Reducing flow temps won't really gain you much
@@TrickyTree84 thanks sir, very useful. I too am a country oiler. Although I'm hoping my wife gets me a heat pump for Christmas.
The part about condensing boilers still applies to oil, you still get condensing oil boilers, granted most don't modulate anywhere near as much as gas boilers but there are a few new models out now that do. The dew point is slightly different on oil boilers as it is on gas but reducing flow temp will still improve efficiency. Everything on this video is still applicable. Im always impressed how confident people are commenting on topics they know little about.
@@scottpeters8142 well, now I'm confused.
I have an old cast iron floor standing heat only boiler. I need to upgrade as its probably less than 60% efficient. Would you recommend removing the cylinder and installing a viessmann 111-w combi?
Yes! You would save an absolute packet here!!!
Defo
Regarding tip #3: reduce the heating time until there is not quite enough hot water, then slightly increase heating time. I have reduced water heating time to 10 minutes once per day in the summer and 10 minutes twice per day in the winter.
The heating goes OFF all summer, if it gets a bit chilly, wear a fleece or a jumper .
@@A2Z1Two3 errr ... yes, though I was talking about *water* heating time. I don't usually wear a fleece or jumper (or anything else) when having a bath! 🤣
You should bot need to do this as your hoynwater thermostat should automatically turn off the hotnwater once it reaches temperature
@@HeatGeek thanks for responding. I appreciate what you are saying. Personally, I do not need a full tank of hot water just for me. That's why 10-20 mins water heating per day is sufficient for me. On the very few occasions I need more hot water, there is a one-hour boost button on the controller. :-)
UK council's made a massive mistake in loads of homes by putting thermostats in passage's, the coldest part of the house so the other rooms are like ovens. Also, some council's say you CANNOT fit draught excluders? I've opened my chimney and using that this winter, £30 for a fire grate, £40 for some fire bricks, £18 for chimney sweeping rods from Argos, and loads of free wood everywhere.
Public service. Thank you for another great video and content.
You mentioned in one of the tips not to buy a Hive. What is the reason for this? The house we just moved into has Hive, is it something that I should prioritise switching out for something like a Nest, or is it only for specific circumstances you don’t recommend Hive? We have a combi boiler if that makes a difference
He might mean all of those types of smart thermostats?
I want to know this too. I swapped mine to a hive last year and been generally quite happy with. Like that I can program it on my phone and not in the dark airing cupboard, with minimal space and a very unintuitive three button user interface that was my old Honeywell 😂
Great video. Quick question I adjusted my DHW temp on my vaillant boiler to 40 c Now when I run my hot taps, the temp isn't constant it's fluctuates between 40 and 55. Shouldn't the boiler be able to maintain a constant 40 degrees? I can here it starting and stopping as the temp fluctuates. Is this exspected behaviour. Thansk
Sounds like your heatvexchanger may be partially blocked, flow rate too low or some other issue. Yes it should maintain.
Watching from Canada so very little applies but I am interested in the temperatures that you recommend for the boiler (I think that's what we call a hot water tank) and the reference to legionella. Never heard of that. New tanks automatically have a default setting at 60 C, but we are encouraged to lower the temperature by about 10 C for cost savings and efficiency.
Search for our hot water video
I went up to 55C on the flow temp at the start of October. I base that change from 45C on when the 1 or 2 C lift required in the office in the morning starts to take longer than an hour radiator time. I currently just eye-ball the graphs, but I intend to start recording the actual delta for rooms and at least factor in "demand time per degree delta". What I really need is a gas flow sensor installed to actually monitor the gas usage as runtime doesn't account for the boiler trickery.
In the media, there's a lot of advice about turning off radiators in unused rooms (which on a side note is bad advice because they never state to leave the rad on in the room where the stat is!). Is there a point where this becomes inefficient? Maybe you could do a video on this, for example, turning off all upstairs rads and only heating downstairs (obviously with room stat downstairs)? Love your channel, best I've ever seen regarding home heating. Thanks
Thanks! Please watch the video "why not to zone your heating"
Ok, here’s my question:- I would appreciate any well thought out response.
I live in a very well insulated, ground floor apartment. The apartment block is new build, or at least it was when I moved in, 9 years ago. The building is gas free!
My apartment is fitted with storage heaters and I subscribe to an economy 7 tariff. I understand fully the principle and pros and cons of storage heating. The main issue is that in order to maximise the efficiency of storage heating, you need to be a first rate weather forecaster. You need to know tomorrow’s weather in order to correctly set up your heaters the evening previous evening.
I only have 1 storage heater permanently running during the winter months. It is located in my hallway, which is 10 feet wide and 25 feet long. My lounge, kitchen, bathroom, utility room and 2 bedrooms all open into this hallway, as does my front door which opens onto the street. If I leave all internal doors open, that 3kw storage heater is usually man enough to maintain the whole apartment at a comfortable temperature. But sometimes additional heat is needed. I don’t employ any of the other storage heaters, they are too slow to react. As a back up in my lounge I have a 2kw dry core radiator. In the large bedroom a 2kw oil filled radiator. In the small bedroom 12 feet by 11 feet I have a 0.6kw infrared panel and in the bathroom a heated towel rail.
Both radiators have an independent thermostat and a separate power control which can be set for 0.6kw, 1.4kw or 2kw. I tend to leave them both set to 0.6kw which would appear to be sufficient to maintain the required temperature. Obviously the thermostat is clicking on and off. If, I were to leave the thermostat exactly as it is, but adjust the power control to a higher setting, would this make my radiators more efficient as I will be reducing the amount of time the thermostat is on, as the higher current will cause more rapid reheating.
Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.
Leave the thermostats at 0.6kw and turn it up on those few very cold days of the year
For people with PV, it's possible to install measuring devices that run the boiler to higher temps as long as there is un used PV energy. Saves electricity and most important the tax and transport costs.
Great video. Excellent information as always..I tell everyone to watch your channel and what you are trying to acheive in terms of your Heat Geek network of installers.
Another great video
Quick question on timing hot water. I have always told my customer that if they had a well insulated hot water cylinder that they would be better off leaving the hot water on permanently. As this stops the cooling affect of cold water coming in when the hot isn’t on and cooling down the remaining hot water left in the cylinder. I have a combi at home, so can’t test this. But I had asked some of my customer with unvented well insulated cylinder and smart meter to try it in the summer when the heating wouldn’t affect the gas bill and all have said there gas usage is less when it not timed. Maybe you guy could look in to this one
Thanks Andy
And during winter all the heat loss from boiler is still heating the house.
most thermostatic mixing valves, showers etc. Require hot water to be supplied 5 degrees c above the desired supply temperature
Yes it can causes issues for sure
Hi great video. I have a Santon Premier Plus and cannot find the hot water thermostat anywhere? I did lower the temperature for flow on the boiler though.
How do I know if my combinboiler is condensing properly. As I’ve just had flue tilt adjusted
You mention that you may need to increase your flow rate if "you've given your boiler enough time to hear the house" if you have a 3 bed semi detached medium sized house, how long is enough time to give your boiler a chance to warm the house?
As always 'if depends'. First of all don't touch the flow rate (which you ajust at the pump) adjust the flow temperature. As a rough rule lets give it an hour but you can time your heating to turn on earlier to account for this.
great video. will act on these tips right away. now subbed! 👍
Thankiyou so much very helpful information video..Appreciate ❤May Allah give you long life and and always happy with good health..❤
Thanks for the video, you’ll be increasing the number of call outs for “ my x y and z doesn’t work” after customers have been fiddling 🙃
Sure.. but for the amount of those people there will be many more that don't have a problem and just save gas.
I tried to turn off the pre-heat function on the combi, as mentioned in tip 3. I followed the user manual. A P shows on the digital screen to indicate it’s off, but it still fires up a few times a day including waking me up at midnight 🤦♀️
I’ll try it again!
I have an electric cooker and turn it off early as there is still much heat in the rings and the same when baking bread etc. Lids on pans of course.
Havent a clue what that contraption was that you were measuring temperature on! We just have a boiler in the utility that is a box, with a digital temp setting for the water to the rads & immersion. What temp should it be set to?
At 1:41: you mention to beware as mixer taps can play up here. Does this also apply thermostatic mixer showers?
What type of boiler do you have? You could have a Combi boiler with hot water cylinder via Hot Water priority setup too..(its uncommon but not impossible)
We made this for the common person. If I went on to that sort of detail it would have been hours long
When we cook, we put the stove off as soon as possible, then serve the meal and draw the heat from the remnants of the cooking pan or frying pan and feed it into our central heating through a custom build system. Fully cooked food contains an enourmous amount of heat and Joules that can be drained..
The suction system, we actually catch that heat to use again and circulate it..
This is an excellent contents and a well concise video.i liked every bit of your explanation, it shows there's a lot I must do if I want to be proficient with my trades.
When ever I watch his videos, I feel the motivation and it drive me to learn how to trade although am taking gradual steps towards under standing the mrket
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(crypto,forex,shares)
Real estate.
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(cryto,forex,shares)
Real estate.
Stock maket
foreign exchange.
@Mindy Greer yes forrex trading is surely a lucrative way to invst if you need wealth
@@Clarissa210 I made 40,000 dollar with 1,000 dollar in 3month patience is the key 🗝️
I turn my boiler stat so that after the boiler has struck up for CH and has reached a steady state, the temp of the return pipe is about 53° as if it's above 54° then it's not condensing fully efficiently
BG getting skunked. Love it.
Excellent tips! Definitely makes all the difference
There was no mention of the heating curve for a combi boiler, or did I miss it. Mine is set to 2.8. Would reducing it save money?
I didn't realize how different US heating was...
You mentioned not to get a Hive. What’s the story there? I got a free Nest that I never got around to installing from my electricity supplier. Is Nest better? Thanks.
Please watch our "mucstbwatch before choosing a thermostat" video
Thankyou . I'm going to share this video big time
Stored water should be stored above 60 degrees to help prevent legionella. Same goes for the combi boiler only that should be above 50
Great Video. Thanks guys.
Seen a cup with your logo on it in local builders merchants yesterday 😂👍🏻 the good word is spreading! What’s the reason you say don’t install a hive? Just curious. Thanks mate.
Hi Dan. Awesome! Watch our "must watch before using a thermostat"
Very important to bump up the temperature from time to time if you reduce it below 60C...and run through the pipes as well. He only mentions legionella in passing, but it can hurt your health and in serious cases actually kill you!
do these work for an unvented cylinder and system boilers?
Yes that's what I'm adjusting in the video
Why not install a hive? I have it and it works great?
Excellent video I saved 120 percent ,😃👍
Subscribed 😃👍 massive help 👍
Thanks Adam….for these helpful videos! 💪
At 4:00 you say to turn OFF the Eco mode as it will keep the temp up but that is at odds with what the manual says.
ECONOMY MODE, ECO BUTTON LIT
• The water is not heated up until a hot water tap is turned on
The alternative is something called comfort mode which does what you say and keeps it topped up:
COMFORT MODE, ECO BUTTON IS NOT LIT (DEFAULT SETTING)
The appliance is held constantly at the set temperature. This
means that hot water is available almost instantaneously at the
tap.
Consequently the appliance will switch on at intervals, even if no
hot water is being drawn.
This is form the Worcester Greenstar manual
I’ve got an old Ideal Logic + Heat 18, it seems to have an e-function on the hot water boiler temperature. Would you go by this or would you reduce it closer towards the min setting? It seems very basic as there’s no other adjustments. 13-year-old condenser boiler!
I have a modern WB condensing boiler and I can set the flow temperature of the CH, however, the service engineer said setting it low would cause too much cycling?
I have a regular condensing boiler coupled with a boiler mate 2000 - any recommendations for people like me who don't really have access to all the control stuff you stated. Many thanks :)
It's important to keep your feet warm. You will be much more comfortable at lower temperatures with warm feet. Have a look at 'tent mules'
Any different advice for oil fueled boilers?
If you add a flow restrictor to an electric shower, make sure it isn’t going to overheat your shower module or it’s a new electric shower.
Tip no.4 flow restrictors...it's a no no for combi boilers,if you have low flow,and non condensing boiler(and even on condensing boiler sometime).the control of hot water will be difficult the boiler will shut off and on,and the water will be too hot then too cold.taking a shower in this condition....
I am watching this video in the winter with no heating on and wearing several jumpers on top of each other plus blanket. Because the house we just moved into has a 20+ year old boiler that we can't afford to run due to the shocking inefficiency 😂
I think the main issue with British housing is lack of insulation and high humidity in the winter. In Northern Ontario Canada we use forced air heating and wood stoves, our homes have way more insulation, I have over two feet of insulation in my attic and windows have triple glass. Also our homes get very dry in the winter so that we add humidity to the home.
If home owners spent some time adding insulation to their home they wouldn’t have to buy so much energy.
The majority of our housing stock is around 100 years old.. however the majority have double glasing and wall insulation.
Ontario can get like -20'c...England gets to MAYBE -5. There is a big difference. We don't need to have a home like yours.
Can Legionnaires actually form in a dark airless tank? Just wondering as I’ve only seen it in open water cooled AC systems.
Potentially but the water would have to not move for weeks on end.. maybe years
That’s the reason I wonder why it’s often mentioned, it seems very unlikely to me tbh.
Worcester Bosch boiler installed in 2021. Which smart thermostat should I buy (obviously not hive)……….
I see you recommended tado but then I heard the v3 ruined everything as it doesn’t do load balancing (I might have totally cocked up the terminology there, sorry I’m ignorant).
That's weird, In the Netherlands they advice to not lower the hot tap water to below 60 degrees Celsius due to Legionella. So what is it? 50 or 60 degrees?
I have 280mm loft insulation in about 75% of the space and need to lift boards to raise the 25%. What is the maximum safe depth for loft insulation?
I also have cold spots where I have fire hoods over the downlighting. Is there a 60 minute rated downlight I can use without the fire hoods? Which I have 26.
If you have led lamps fitted then the fire hood can be covered over as there will not be the heat build up that a halogen lamp would give.
Super advice, Thank you
Get rid of subscriptions services as to save money i.e. sky, Bt etc...broadband, tether instead, works great and saves money. Buy candles in case electricity is turned off.
Be aware when sealing up your home that you will inevitably be increasing the humidity in your home.
The Testo pipe thermometers are accurate to within + or -1.3 degrees Celsius. Says it inside the box.
Thank you, great resource and tips.
How does range rating apply (or have a beneficial effect)when you have a modulating condensing boiler (say V200) when weather compensated?
Regarding adjusting your boiler flow temperature to the minimum you can get away with throughout the year, I noticed afterwards you mentioned if you have a weather compensation control boiler “it does all that for you”. I have a Baxi 400 combo boiler with Tado smart thermostat which has a weather compensation feature. What option is most efficient: Should I be adjusting the flow rate manually to the minimum I can get away with (60) with the Tado modulating between a smaller range of flow rates or leave the flow rate at max (80) and allow my Tado to modulate with the full range of flow rates available to it?
If I want a higher flow on my shower, there is a point in blending 60C water with cold, isn't there?
My friend the government has been doing this since the beginning with prices of oil … solar energy or geothermal power would have been the best option if you can afford it that it and you would be able to sell energy back to the government for a cheap price not a whole lot to make .. but it’s the saving in the long run as you will have no more bills for energy/electricity and you won’t need to worry about much about prices of oil or propane gas to keep your house warm
Should also look into Nebia showerheads. Those things really do make a big difference, I love mine.
In my council flat, I have a combi with digital screen ours are set for 58degrees, I tried to change it but when they came out to do the boiler check they said the water must be set over 50 degrees as you can get legionnaires disease if not?
I have a question about the Eco mode on my combi boiler. In other videos is says turn ON the Eco mode because without it the boiler intermittently comes on. I noticed that was the case with mine - that when the button was off the boiler randomly came on at different times, now I've pressed the button, it doesn't. Please can you clarify. Thanks.
Ecomode *typically Worcester) means random heating and wasting if gas is OFF
Not sure what you mean by 'range rating' as I have not heard of that before. I do not have a boiler with a menu so I might not be able to do anything with that. However, I did wonder if the boiler I have was overrated for my small house. Sometimes it seems like it can only just heat the water to fill a bath when it is winter time, but that could be because it is just designed for a fixed 55 degree temperature for the hot water - it is a Worcester Bosch Greenstar and I think it was the 28i junior not the 24i junior. There is no setting for the hot water (tap) temperature, only for the radiator temperature. Maybe newer boilers have some extra settings for the tap water, and what you are saying about the 'range rating'?
Triple glazing and insulate loft hatch too.
What do I do if I already got hive? Anyway to sell them on?