Unboxing 8 American Flyer Steam Engines! | 400 subscribers!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2022
- For celebrating 400 subscribers, I'm unboxing 8 engines. This was recorded a while ago, so the scenery on the layout is not done yet and I'm back on my old title.
These were acquired locally so the box was already open, but technically I'm removing them from the box so it qualifies for me.
Want to send me something? mygrandpastrain@gmail.com
Be sure to subscribe! And check out some of my older videos too!
Excellent toys . They keep so good shape throuhgh so many years . Three rail set has side rails not electricaly insulated so for them train need a center slider for electrical power - Lionel has like that. . The other way could be eventualy to provide insulating material for rail-support junctions at minimum one side to all supports.
When I was a kid my neighbours had a fantastic set up that ran alll the way through a large basement and had tracks that ran into the wall and in the back room around the top border. Seeing your set up just reminded me how awesome it was. thanks again.
Some 287 CNW Pacifics did not have smoke and choo-choo. Nor did the 289; it had just a whistle. It was uncataloged.
Congrats on the thrift shop find! Also - a big whoop, whoop for the 400 subs! You've earned it. 600 more to go 😁
Nice S scale. Little bigger than OO and smaller then O. Some S scalers will use OO buildings just make them a little larger.
You have a lot to work with there. have fun. One of my two most reliable runners is a 310 K-5 which needed work to get it together and going. It runs in almost all of my videos. Congratulations on 400+ subscribers.
Thanks! I picked up a 310 and a 370 the other day. 310 is Missing the pilot and trailing truck. Also have a 310 shell. Will be fun putting all those projects together.
your 287 has a tender mounted air chime whistle/speaker ,. no choo choo and a weight in its place. You will need a variable tone whistle generator which are particularly hard to find, has a variable pitch volume lever , not to be confused with the plug in electronic whistle control. (CASG)
The weight was missing inside mine which makes it want to jump the track. I will be adding a weight. Also the 289 came with the whistle, my 287 is bare bones. The 289 is somewhat rare, although If I had one I could use my 710 whistle control with it.
Great box of basket cases! That should be a lot of fun rebuilding all these!
Yes, some of the easy ones are already done but I'm looking forward to the 312 and the 565 Atlantic
May I ask where do you buy your parts from? Back in the 70’s I started buying parts from Ron Leveton in Chahalis Washington. Then I found Doug Peck who owns Portlines Hobby which made shipping cheaper for me. These days I still use Portlines and sometimes The Train Tender these days.
🙂👍☕
I have made this repair several times and never had to remove the wheel from the chassis.
I have been successful using epoxy putty in adhering the metal rims to the insulators. I learned this from Tom Barker's book.
The wheel is not removed. I keep the rim against the chassis creating a thin gap all the way around between the metal rim & the flange of the insulator.. I fill this with the epoxy putty. I wedge the rim towards the insulator flange using two small screw drivers (popsicle sticks work) squeezing out the excess putty. After cleaning off the excess epoxy putty I let it sit overnight. I think this method forces some epoxy putty underneath the metal rim. I made this repair to my 285 4-6-2 about 10 years ago and it has held. I have also made this repair on my 293 4-6-2; 336 4-8-4 & my 0-8-0 343. This repair has not failed me.
DavesAFTrains uses krazy glue instead of epoxy putty. How successful long term his method is I don't know.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip. I found epoxy is by far the strongest bond for most applications. I've used Loctite superglue as well for bonding metals it works good. I repaired a sintered truck side frame with superglue on a box car. It did not work on a tender repair. JB weld might work for that.
@@MygrandpasTrain
I use J-B Weld Water Weld (Specially Formulated Epoxy Putty) which is not a liquid. It does not have to be mixed like two part epoxies. It is literally a stick of putty that is white in color. The closest item I can compare it to is window glazing compound that you apply to a replacement glass pane of a window. The epoxy putty is a stiffer than the glazing compound. The beauty of it is that you can make the rim repair without taking the wheel off of the axle and unlike a liquid it doesn't run and unlike super glue you don't have to be fast with completing your repair. I have kept it sealed after use since I used it to make my first rim repair on that 285 so it has lasted a long time.
I have used the two part JB Weld that you have to mix for reattaching sintered iron side frames to trucks. I think I will need it to reattach the top of the boiler number boards on my 336 locomotive and the short hood railing and stanchion on my 375 GP-7. I don't think I would use it to repair the steel rim to insulated wheel on a steam locomotive.
Im in!
Thanks for watching. More coming down the line, or check out some of my older vids!
You have to replace the rivet and the insulator on that tender truck. Parts are available from portline hobby supply a man named Doug Peck.
The name of Doug Peck's site is Port Lines Hobby Supplies out of Newburyport, MA. I met him and his wife at the Greenberg Train Show in Wilmington, MA in November. Nice friendly couple
I will have to email them about finding parts, I was not having much success on the Portlines website.
Marx prewar guy here, why is there both two rail and three rail tracks on your layout? Do you also run Lionel and Marx trains? That Marx motor is the more desirable double reduction 1947 --72, a real sweetheart.
No, don't currently have any Lionel or Marx, except the motor. My uncle has a Marx set which is boxed up currently. Maybe someday I can do a video on his set. I do have a prewar 3 rail American Flyer engine. Found the 027 track at a thrift shop for 3 bucks!
I’d like to know what kind of roadbed that is and also the green material you have on top of your board?
The roadbed is scraps of rubber subflooring for hardwood floors that I cut into strips. It doesn't make the trains quieter, but it looks good and is cheaper than original roadbed. The green is just grass mat rolls that you can buy from any hobbyshop.The front edge of the layout is green paint I textured to look like grass.
What are you using for roadbed on your S gauge track?
It's a thin flooring underlayment for hardwood floors. Just a sheet of rubber I cut into strips. Does not dampen sound, but was way cheaper than original roadbed.
Is there anyone that repairs these for others?
There are not many repair shops left. Many repair men are nearing retirement. However there are a few guys I know including myself that may do repair work via mail. Theres also Daves American Flyer Trains and Austins American Flyer trains. Both have TH-cam channels with emails listed.
Bellissima😍💖! You are late to the party - 'Promosm' !!!