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I understand your hose transferring fuel from the left/right side, but I wouldn't recommend doing an external hose near a moving driveshaft, it would be bettering making an access hole from the top on the other side of a tank and running the transfer tube internal of the fuel tank and adding an baffling system on that side to avoid fuel sloshing (like a tanker truck) , that way the pump is pulling the fuel from the other side of the tank instead of gravity. (not saying gravity fed is a bad thing, just trying to help avoid a external thermal event.)
@_Gingium_ the surge tank is usless if it cant get fuel from the tank wile its sloshing around. U still have to feed the pump that fills the surge tank
I highly recommend using an internal transfer pump for the fuel. Similar to a factory setup with saddle bag tanks. A low pressure electric carburetor fuel pump will work good for that or put a y in the inlet to feed from the other side using the main pump
I think I decided to use an internal pump with an external line on the top of the tank. I can’t think of a way to easily add an internal pump and line without cutting the top off lol
@_Gingium_ years ago I did that on my drag car so I didn't have to put a fuel cell. Since it was my daily as well. The joys of high-school with a 700 horse daily driver in the 90's
alright yeah surge tank cool, lack of baffles is not so cool and weight will shift rapidly and inconsistently while cornering and drifting. also physics consisting of gravity alone in a closed system doesn't account for the G's you pull so that AN line will not do much on the track unless you do baffles
Why not just implement the system that Subaru has used(a siphon line), to interconnect both sides of the fuel tank. Way safer ...and, like you said; 'Let's not have another Eclipse" ...Seriously Caleb, look into the Subaru Fuel Tank Siphoning system.
@@sergeantspeed5941 By comparison to what this kid is building, they are miles away from the drive shaft and they actually are nowhere near the driveshaft and are typically in front of the drive shaft completely so if they do "fall" they won't even contact the drive shaft. The point is that Gingium is building a completely stupid and unsafe setup where everything is inches away or closer. So again to your point.... Semi's don't "do it"
Seriously. If I already had a car burn to the ground I would sure be more careful in my fuel setups. Especially when there are so many standard, proven, and safe ways to do this.
Listen, every tech inspector I’ve ever encountered has just popped the engine bay and looked at it for 2 seconds lol. The events I go to are very chill. BUT I will be revising the fuel line idea
I'm would like to say I whole heartedly support the effort and work you put in to all your projects. Your growth as a fabricator and presenter has inspired many as well as myself. Please know this comes from a place of concern not negativity
Hey Gingium long time fan of the channel, first time commenting. I am a control system engineer by profession and your two water cups connected by the hose is a classic control system! I found it hillarious as to how many times I have described such a system using complicated calculus, making it complicated and hard for many people to understand, when you described it in such an intuitive way 😂😂😂 Hats of to you!
how will the water stay there? the whole point of welding it is so that it becomes water tight... cant hold water if its not water tight yet? i cant tell if this is satire lol
Yes I was talking about when he was welding the mount and the rest of the tank was already sealed. Another common technique when welding aluminum sheet like that is to place larger thick blocks of aluminum on either side of the weld area. They act as a heat sink and pull heat away from the sheet surrounding the immediate weld area.
Truth be told i get the trapped fuel issue but the solution kinda scares me especially around a driveshaft on a drift vehicle. I wish i knew enough about cars to suggest something. Just worried about it. All of the rest of this build series though is prime.
With you. Best solution would be to have a fuel pump on both sides pulling from the bottom, and use a surge tank and put the fuel cell in there. Just my opinion.
i like how keegan helps , and its nice to finally have some time to watch your vids again ,had some hard months in life , your vids brings me joy and relax in my life
later on, please please PLEASE get a forged bottom end in that motor and lets see what a 1uz with some big boost can do. Love the series man, keep up the awesome work.
The fuel cell loop is to complicated for your buddy there 😂. Now I will say. My e30 comp car. Factory has a loop. But it runs parallel with the bottom of the tank. And not down and back up. That loop will always hold fuel. (Although doesn’t really matter). Look up e30 fuel tank ‘s’ pipe.
Another solution would be to install a secondary fuel pump on the side without the surge tank that pumps fuel into or around the surge tank. In my boosted 370z I have a 255lph pump and a Holley Hydramat that sucks and pumps fuel from the drivers side to passenger side directly into the fuel pump hanger, and I have never had any slosh or starvation issues.
I just started watching, so you might cover this already but just an idea. Semi trucks use transfer lines at the bottom of our tanks, The only time you worry about anything is fuel starvation at off camber angles. But the surge tank should eliminate 99% of that happening. Also dont run the AN lines on the bottom, run them on the vertical section of tank, then run them down. Reduces the risk of something catching the fitting and damaging the tank. build a bracket to shield the line from the ground and drivrshaft.
Good sir, have you thought about making the fuel tank asymmetrical? As in on the driver or passenger side making the fuel cell sit deeper in the chassis than the other side? Create a line that represents max driveshaft movement vertically, then drop the fuel tank bottom to as low as your comfortable with. Making the overall shape like the L from Tetris on it's side. Whether that's inline with the chassis or several inches below that point. That way you get your depth, maintain your volume and don't have to resort to your AN line transfer.
I think the fuel tank needs splash plates inside to stop fuel for splashing around and causing issues. By the way when pending pipes using spirit level is much better than leveling by eye. Keep up the good work!
Looking good bud. A venturi jet on the return line could transfer fuel across that hump also. A little less intrusive way to do it all internal to the tank.
an idea would be to have 2 pick up tubes for the surge tank one in each side. to avoid fuel starvation on a prolonged turn. Sloshing seems like it could be an issue.
I look forward to this time of the evening every week. My wife and I are in bed and son is fast asleep. Keep up the hard work, you truly are an inspiration to so many 💪🏼
Heyyy Caleb! Mate just like a lot of suggestions have been sent already.. this is not safe at all.. please do a bladder system inside that has baffles and just do it as an L shape and you dont need to do the very dangerous AN line underneath it… few less liters of fuel on the tank is totally worth the safety increase. All the best!
A "horizontal" L-shaped tank would've been way easier, enough height for the surge tank and no side-to-side transfer nonsense. Would also work a bit like baffling.
Need to have HTP send you a spool gun for aluminum, a project that size it goes along way, plus it’s another skill you can enhance. You’ve came such a long way dude.
Gingium is right With his Hose theory its because of the hight. Water hight is nothing Else than Water presure when the Water gets higher the presure gets higher too, to be persize 1 Meter is 0,1 Bar (1, 45 psi) so it always wana fill Up the emptier side in order to have the same "presure". Keep the good work Up and im sorry if my english is not so good, im german and still learning. 😉
It will flow untill the levels are equal, then it will stop flowing. A few things you may not have thought of, any sediment in the gas will become trapped in the line leading to it becoming clogged. Also now you have to completely drain the tank to remove the drive shaft and you also have a much higher chance of snagging the line and destroying your brand new tank.
Could you not just have the inlet for the surge tanks lift pump tee off to the two sides of the fuel tank? That way it would just fill the surge tank from both lowest spots in the tank.
As long as both intakes are submerged that,s ok, but I'd expect as soon as either one gets empty (due to slosh or unevenly draining the halves) it won't be able to pick up anything from the other side, it'll just suck air. You'd want two lift pumps from the tank to the surge tank to be able to get everything.
If you put the radiator at the front, instead of the fuel tank, you could make a scoop like Formula 1 has. I think that as well as being innovative and cool, it would benefit the air flow. But keep up the good work, I love it
You're going to want to incorporate some rubber isolators in your fuel cell mount, aluminum cells are super prone to cracking if you hard mount them. Something about the vibrations of the vehicle resonating in the aluminum. Love the videos though man, keep up the killer work!
@_Gingium_ Dont you think the forces from sliding make the fuel slide to 1 side? Then the tube might not bring the fuel back fast enough and starve the fuel pump?
There is a much safer way to run a saddle tank than putting an AN line on the bottom. A Venturi on the return line that has a pickup on the other side. The 2g DSM has a setup like that
i would try to weld bracket right into corners on the side that sits on these brackets you welded on frame.... just lil corner aluminium plates just to hold it...
Sometimes I swear you've got some engineer in you. 😂 I'm looking forward to V2 of this tank. Also, my OCD would have forced me to shim the tank and put the pump on the low side. Haha. ❤ Another loyal subscriber who knows everything.
I would probably add a steel tube with the lenght of the gas tank and diameter a bit bigger than largest part of the driveshaft in one end so it can still fit trought, just a driveshaft hoop on both ends of the gas tank may not save the tank if the driveshaft explodes, wich is a bit likely in drifting.
why didnt you just used the cad software to precisely cut the opeing for the fuel pump/ surge tank mount in the top before welding it up ?? seems like it could of taken the guesswork out and been alot cleaner ,
the issues with the line under the tank like that, 1. now you have a hanging fuel line that will probably fail inspection. 2. if you have that line, you still have the same issue you had before, 2 separate tanks. The pressure will equalize so its the same level in both. Your best option would be to have 2 pumps, one in each side to feed the surge tank. or build the tank with one side lower for the surge tank and a slight slope to direct fuel to the side with the surge.
Couple things that made me think though, over time, won't sediment in the tank eventually clog those fuel lines and you'll have to clean them out regularly? What if these lines hit the driveshaft? & is it ok to mount a fuel tank directly over the driveshaft, what if the torque breaks the driveshaft or something like that, couldn't it hit the tank and cause a fuel fire?
I get you want a street truck, but I would consider fabricating a part tool box part fuel cell that sits in the bed and not below. This gets the fuel tank away from the driveshaft, and you have a practical use for something in the bed.
fuel cell 2.0 : just sump it only on the pass side. leave the driver side shallow. angle the bottom of the shallow driver side to flow to the pass side. less capacaity but far less complication and decent weight distr. for racing.
You have all the tools necessary to create a proper fuel cell with internal baffles and bend allowances are very easy once you get the hang of them. I believe if you push yourself you can achieve some amazing things and I have seen you do exactly that. Just some projects I believe you try to just get it done and aren’t focused on making something the best it could be. ❤
Always love seeing your progress as a fabricator. I've been watching since you made gaming videos and have enjoyed every project, keep up to good work Caleb!
Sweet ( comment, lesson never learned? The fuel cell should make it in TWO layers!! Or with a rubber bladder, or make two small cells and pump one cell into the other with a lift pump )( AND you need segments to prevent slashing of 7lbs per gallon fluid inside as your drift it left right back forward) ( cut that long tank you welded in half,rubber sheet on the brackets on bottoms ( the sheet rubber for construction windows works well)
I think I see a fatal flaw in your fuel cell design: lateral g-force. When you're going sideways, the fuel will push to one side, leading to starvation, this is just my observation. Hopefully I'm wrong, lol.
Internal baffles could help there? I'm more concerned about having a gas filled pipe routing under the driveshaft. I hate to be one of those folks and hope he has a plan for building it safely but what happens if the driveshaft fails? I guess if you're creating a driveshaft hoop you could route the fuel pipe under that.
Tank looks great! But I would revisit the line that combines the two, I feel it's just adding a potential point of failure. I would look at treating one side like a reserve tank. Maybe have a small fuel pump that can transfer fuel to the other side, or something.
All I know is there are now 2 low sides of a tank now and truck is designed to swing back and forth, one side is “active” and designed to take fuel and put it in surge tank that takes up majority of space on that side, other side is empty void “passive” and relies solely on gravity to Re supply the “active” side. With another passive void in between that is only good for transferring fuel back and forth under 3/4 tank. Maybe it’ll be fine this is just my thought process… if it doesn’t I vote corvette style twin tanks. We know you’ll get it right one way or another caleb!
You should make those AN lines dry disconnect for ease of disassembly. That way you don't have to drain the tank everytime you need to remove the Driveshaft which I assume will be something you'll need to remove a lot replacing clutches and stuff like that.
Hi Gingium Maybe someone told you, but if the program you use to desing has a tab call preferences, the unit could be change there as it is in others programs. Saludos compa, from Argentina
Should of welded the tabs to the plate before assembling the tank then you could of clamped some stainless to other side to work as a heat sink and keep everything flat
It's funny to me how many people threw shade about "poor decisions" on the DSM-R build. When more than likely they're probably the people who recommended the most insane ideas. But the important part isn't if you're making a mistake, it's trying not to make it twice. You're never going to know fire is hot, till you get burned.. Quite literally
Day 2 of asking gingium to do a rear mesh on the difference of height between the original bed floor and the new one to let the air from the radiator escape
Im jumping the gun here, but what you should do instead for the fuel level issue is run a venturi on the return line that picks up fuel from the dead side of the tank. Many OEM cars use this feature
tbh, I think it would be better to just remove one side of the tank that below the driveshaft cutout. so you still have enough depth for the pump and you wouldn't need to run a hose. It would reduce capacity but I think it's worth the simplicity.
![Making A Custom Fuel Tank & More [#UPDATE 303]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Ezh9wlAk-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
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Its not gonna pass tech amigo
btw nordVPN isn't nordic in any way shape or form. I wouldn't trust a lithuanian company registered in panama with my data lol
Buy a “No dog” level to keep your bends in the same plane. Love the build 👍🏽
You should put the fuel cell in the engine bay next to a battery.
🥲
You didn't have to do him dirty like that XD
@@sham_wow_guy You finna feel what the nfl finna feel like.
Damn. go easy lol
Damn man!!!!!!
Too soon
I have a feeling we will see a 2nd version of this fuel cell 🫡
I hope so. I can’t shake the feeling this is a disaster idea.
I agree saddle tanks are terrible ask any 350z owner
More like revised 1st version
@_Gingium_ That's even better then, supposing you're revising it before finding out the cons? Keep up the good work!
Its definitely not gonna work like he thinks. the an line will do nothing lol. But thats how you learn when u have money.
I understand your hose transferring fuel from the left/right side, but I wouldn't recommend doing an external hose near a moving driveshaft, it would be bettering making an access hole from the top on the other side of a tank and running the transfer tube internal of the fuel tank and adding an baffling system on that side to avoid fuel sloshing (like a tanker truck) , that way the pump is pulling the fuel from the other side of the tank instead of gravity. (not saying gravity fed is a bad thing, just trying to help avoid a external thermal event.)
This!^ Please, no more fires.
The old bmw 3series tank (e30) has something like this, but it was a steel line
Yep, going to run a line over the top with a pump. No additional baffles though, that’s kinda what the surge tank is for.
@@TheMichal1260 It did? I dont remember this on mine?
@_Gingium_ the surge tank is usless if it cant get fuel from the tank wile its sloshing around. U still have to feed the pump that fills the surge tank
2:32 blues clues ah notepad hahaha
Awesome video as always, man
I highly recommend using an internal transfer pump for the fuel. Similar to a factory setup with saddle bag tanks. A low pressure electric carburetor fuel pump will work good for that or put a y in the inlet to feed from the other side using the main pump
I think I decided to use an internal pump with an external line on the top of the tank. I can’t think of a way to easily add an internal pump and line without cutting the top off lol
@_Gingium_ years ago I did that on my drag car so I didn't have to put a fuel cell. Since it was my daily as well. The joys of high-school with a 700 horse daily driver in the 90's
@@_Gingium_ why not doing something like e46 fuel transfer / sucking jet pump?, its internal in tank and its simpel.
alright yeah surge tank cool, lack of baffles is not so cool and weight will shift rapidly and inconsistently while cornering and drifting. also physics consisting of gravity alone in a closed system doesn't account for the G's you pull so that AN line will not do much on the track unless you do baffles
Baffles are so easy, theres no reason not to.
Why not just implement the system that Subaru has used(a siphon line), to interconnect both sides of the fuel tank. Way safer ...and, like you said; 'Let's not have another Eclipse"
...Seriously Caleb, look into the Subaru Fuel Tank Siphoning system.
I have an idea that’ll fix the safety concerns while not requiring me to build an entirely new tank!
Feel like its not very safe a fuel line right under a high spinning part.
Semis do it
@@sergeantspeed5941 Everything runs over the driveshaft and transmission or attached to the bottom of the sleeper. I am a heavy duty technician....
@@MrGuyBroDude ok? They still are in the vicinity of the driveshaft. They don't just fall down if they come apart.
@@sergeantspeed5941 By comparison to what this kid is building, they are miles away from the drive shaft and they actually are nowhere near the driveshaft and are typically in front of the drive shaft completely so if they do "fall" they won't even contact the drive shaft. The point is that Gingium is building a completely stupid and unsafe setup where everything is inches away or closer. So again to your point.... Semi's don't "do it"
@@sergeantspeed5941 diesel isnt flammable
I don't think most tech inspections would allow a fuel hose around a driveshaft that just seems like a catastrophic failure waiting to happen
Seriously. If I already had a car burn to the ground I would sure be more careful in my fuel setups. Especially when there are so many standard, proven, and safe ways to do this.
100% should just move the fuel cell up into the bed so it can be a normal shape and doesn't have to be so unsafe.
Listen, every tech inspector I’ve ever encountered has just popped the engine bay and looked at it for 2 seconds lol. The events I go to are very chill. BUT I will be revising the fuel line idea
I'm would like to say I whole heartedly support the effort and work you put in to all your projects. Your growth as a fabricator and presenter has inspired many as well as myself. Please know this comes from a place of concern not negativity
@@_Gingium_ bro you are one broken driveshaft away from eclipse 2.0 please reconsider
Hey Gingium long time fan of the channel, first time commenting. I am a control system engineer by profession and your two water cups connected by the hose is a classic control system! I found it hillarious as to how many times I have described such a system using complicated calculus, making it complicated and hard for many people to understand, when you described it in such an intuitive way 😂😂😂 Hats of to you!
If you filled the tank with water it would act as a heat sink and prevent the wall from expanding and buckling as much when you weld it.
Wouldn’t the water just leak out because the tank wasn’t welded yet?
how will the water stay there? the whole point of welding it is so that it becomes water tight... cant hold water if its not water tight yet? i cant tell if this is satire lol
Y’all are dumb, dude was talking about when welding the mounting flange on lol
@@teshire9075it's pretty obvious
Yes I was talking about when he was welding the mount and the rest of the tank was already sealed. Another common technique when welding aluminum sheet like that is to place larger thick blocks of aluminum on either side of the weld area. They act as a heat sink and pull heat away from the sheet surrounding the immediate weld area.
I liked how you showed young pups about the tank and a hose underneath tank that will equalize fuel level. Kudos to you.
A lot of people would give up after a tragedy like the Eclipse. Major props Caleb for carrying on, learning more, and getting so much done in general!
Truth be told i get the trapped fuel issue but the solution kinda scares me especially around a driveshaft on a drift vehicle. I wish i knew enough about cars to suggest something. Just worried about it. All of the rest of this build series though is prime.
With you. Best solution would be to have a fuel pump on both sides pulling from the bottom, and use a surge tank and put the fuel cell in there. Just my opinion.
Absolutely this 100% not to mention drift cars do end up off track and if it gets hit and ripper we get eclipse V2 flames.
I got an idea ❤
Drift truck may not be the fastest build on TH-cam but it is most definitely my favorite. All your projects are in my top ten favorite TH-cam builds.
i like how keegan helps , and its nice to finally have some time to watch your vids again ,had some hard months in life , your vids brings me joy and relax in my life
later on, please please PLEASE get a forged bottom end in that motor and lets see what a 1uz with some big boost can do. Love the series man, keep up the awesome work.
There are a few drivers in Drift Masters running turbo 1UZ's pushing over 800hp reliably
The fuel cell loop is to complicated for your buddy there 😂. Now I will say. My e30 comp car. Factory has a loop. But it runs parallel with the bottom of the tank. And not down and back up. That loop will always hold fuel. (Although doesn’t really matter). Look up e30 fuel tank ‘s’ pipe.
13:40 really dug the tube bender lesson
If the drive saft breaks wount it hit the fule tank? Or are the bars you going to add going to protect the tank?
was thinking the same, we dont want this one to catch fire aswell
Any side impact and that’s toast 😢
Could you make the width smaller?
@Gingium please take note, it’s truth
Petition for Gingium to make hour long videos explaining everything ⬇️
He has to make money some how, he had tried longer videos & it limited to amount of videos he could put out & that hurt his views
Always glad to see a gingium video pop up
2:35 law of communicating vessels
You love. And I mean you F-ing love building sketchy fuel tanks/fuel tank locations.
And I love watching you do it. Thanks for the content!
So I'm only 3:35 into the bud and the thought I have is what are you going to do when/if the shaft snaps and rips the line out?
Vid*
1:50 I like the mix of cm and inches. 😂
When he cries about HP is hilarious 😂😂 , love videos, do more
Another solution would be to install a secondary fuel pump on the side without the surge tank that pumps fuel into or around the surge tank. In my boosted 370z I have a 255lph pump and a Holley Hydramat that sucks and pumps fuel from the drivers side to passenger side directly into the fuel pump hanger, and I have never had any slosh or starvation issues.
That’s exactly what I’ll be doing! Thank you for the idea
I just started watching, so you might cover this already but just an idea.
Semi trucks use transfer lines at the bottom of our tanks, The only time you worry about anything is fuel starvation at off camber angles. But the surge tank should eliminate 99% of that happening.
Also dont run the AN lines on the bottom, run them on the vertical section of tank, then run them down. Reduces the risk of something catching the fitting and damaging the tank. build a bracket to shield the line from the ground and drivrshaft.
Good sir, have you thought about making the fuel tank asymmetrical? As in on the driver or passenger side making the fuel cell sit deeper in the chassis than the other side? Create a line that represents max driveshaft movement vertically, then drop the fuel tank bottom to as low as your comfortable with. Making the overall shape like the L from Tetris on it's side. Whether that's inline with the chassis or several inches below that point. That way you get your depth, maintain your volume and don't have to resort to your AN line transfer.
I love how you converted to metric,but still say the tank will be an inch narrower than the 100x30 cm hole! Classic!
I think the fuel tank needs splash plates inside to stop fuel for splashing around and causing issues. By the way when pending pipes using spirit level is much better than leveling by eye. Keep up the good work!
I love that you're teaching Keegan how to use the tools in the shop. Those are valuable skills for his future.
Looking good bud. A venturi jet on the return line could transfer fuel across that hump also. A little less intrusive way to do it all internal to the tank.
an idea would be to have 2 pick up tubes for the surge tank one in each side. to avoid fuel starvation on a prolonged turn. Sloshing seems like it could be an issue.
I look forward to this time of the evening every week. My wife and I are in bed and son is fast asleep. Keep up the hard work, you truly are an inspiration to so many 💪🏼
Heyyy Caleb!
Mate just like a lot of suggestions have been sent already.. this is not safe at all.. please do a bladder system inside that has baffles and just do it as an L shape and you dont need to do the very dangerous AN line underneath it… few less liters of fuel on the tank is totally worth the safety increase.
All the best!
This is the best series of all time
A "horizontal" L-shaped tank would've been way easier, enough height for the surge tank and no side-to-side transfer nonsense.
Would also work a bit like baffling.
Need to have HTP send you a spool gun for aluminum, a project that size it goes along way, plus it’s another skill you can enhance. You’ve came such a long way dude.
OEM solution here is a small pump in the secondary chamber that feeds over. My car has that and its safe and it works 👍
Gingium is right With his Hose theory its because of the hight. Water hight is nothing Else than Water presure when the Water gets higher the presure gets higher too, to be persize 1 Meter is 0,1 Bar (1, 45 psi) so it always wana fill Up the emptier side in order to have the same "presure".
Keep the good work Up and im sorry if my english is not so good, im german and still learning. 😉
You've improved 100% over the last Gingium fuel cell install. 😂
Another great video, love how the truck comes together! VPN commercial blended in nicely too
It will flow untill the levels are equal, then it will stop flowing. A few things you may not have thought of, any sediment in the gas will become trapped in the line leading to it becoming clogged. Also now you have to completely drain the tank to remove the drive shaft and you also have a much higher chance of snagging the line and destroying your brand new tank.
Could you not just have the inlet for the surge tanks lift pump tee off to the two sides of the fuel tank? That way it would just fill the surge tank from both lowest spots in the tank.
As long as both intakes are submerged that,s ok, but I'd expect as soon as either one gets empty (due to slosh or unevenly draining the halves) it won't be able to pick up anything from the other side, it'll just suck air. You'd want two lift pumps from the tank to the surge tank to be able to get everything.
If you put the radiator at the front, instead of the fuel tank, you could make a scoop like Formula 1 has. I think that as well as being innovative and cool, it would benefit the air flow.
But keep up the good work, I love it
You're going to want to incorporate some rubber isolators in your fuel cell mount, aluminum cells are super prone to cracking if you hard mount them. Something about the vibrations of the vehicle resonating in the aluminum. Love the videos though man, keep up the killer work!
@_Gingium_ Dont you think the forces from sliding make the fuel slide to 1 side? Then the tube might not bring the fuel back fast enough and starve the fuel pump?
right when i typed this, u showed the surge tank
There is a much safer way to run a saddle tank than putting an AN line on the bottom. A Venturi on the return line that has a pickup on the other side. The 2g DSM has a setup like that
I can’t wait to see this truck on Hoonigans Build Biology 🔥
i would try to weld bracket right into corners on the side that sits on these brackets you welded on frame.... just lil corner aluminium plates just to hold it...
I defo would baffle the tank then use internal pump to pump the fuel to other side or make an L shaped tank.
Agreed. Best way to do it.
Cant wait to see molly and the drift truck in person
Sometimes I swear you've got some engineer in you. 😂 I'm looking forward to V2 of this tank. Also, my OCD would have forced me to shim the tank and put the pump on the low side. Haha. ❤ Another loyal subscriber who knows everything.
I would probably add a steel tube with the lenght of the gas tank and diameter a bit bigger than largest part of the driveshaft in one end so it can still fit trought, just a driveshaft hoop on both ends of the gas tank may not save the tank if the driveshaft explodes, wich is a bit likely in drifting.
It’ll be more than just two hoops. You shall see!
Nice work ❤️ 👍🏼
why didnt you just used the cad software to precisely cut the opeing for the fuel pump/ surge tank mount in the top before welding it up ??
seems like it could of taken the guesswork out and been alot cleaner ,
ging you should make those rear fenders on the bed easier to replace, drifting hard will give you some dents !! ❤️ drift truck
I understand trying to keep a low center of gravity but, why not just raise fuel tank?
the issues with the line under the tank like that, 1. now you have a hanging fuel line that will probably fail inspection. 2. if you have that line, you still have the same issue you had before, 2 separate tanks. The pressure will equalize so its the same level in both.
Your best option would be to have 2 pumps, one in each side to feed the surge tank. or build the tank with one side lower for the surge tank and a slight slope to direct fuel to the side with the surge.
wont fuel just slosh tru line to whatever side you are turning?
The external fuel hose idea will live rent free in my head as a disaster waiting to happen if I was Caleb
Couple things that made me think though, over time, won't sediment in the tank eventually clog those fuel lines and you'll have to clean them out regularly? What if these lines hit the driveshaft? & is it ok to mount a fuel tank directly over the driveshaft, what if the torque breaks the driveshaft or something like that, couldn't it hit the tank and cause a fuel fire?
I get you want a street truck, but I would consider fabricating a part tool box part fuel cell that sits in the bed and not below. This gets the fuel tank away from the driveshaft, and you have a practical use for something in the bed.
fuel cell 2.0 : just sump it only on the pass side. leave the driver side shallow. angle the bottom of the shallow driver side to flow to the pass side. less capacaity but far less complication and decent weight distr. for racing.
There was a drifter running a 1uz in drift masters making 800+ hp, so it is possible
Oh I know 😎
question: are you making the truck widebody or is it stays like that. if so, why not find a longer rear axle?
You have all the tools necessary to create a proper fuel cell with internal baffles and bend allowances are very easy once you get the hang of them. I believe if you push yourself you can achieve some amazing things and I have seen you do exactly that. Just some projects I believe you try to just get it done and aren’t focused on making something the best it could be. ❤
Always love seeing your progress as a fabricator. I've been watching since you made gaming videos and have enjoyed every project, keep up to good work Caleb!
i like that he is using CM now. inches are good and all but CM is kinda more good :)
Sweet ( comment, lesson never learned? The fuel cell should make it in TWO layers!! Or with a rubber bladder, or make two small cells and pump one cell into the other with a lift pump )( AND you need segments to prevent slashing of 7lbs per gallon fluid inside as your drift it left right back forward) ( cut that long tank you welded in half,rubber sheet on the brackets on bottoms ( the sheet rubber for construction windows works well)
I think I see a fatal flaw in your fuel cell design: lateral g-force. When you're going sideways, the fuel will push to one side, leading to starvation, this is just my observation. Hopefully I'm wrong, lol.
They can work around this by filling tank with some sort of foam that the fuel wont slush around, also stops fuel for foaming up
Internal baffles could help there? I'm more concerned about having a gas filled pipe routing under the driveshaft. I hate to be one of those folks and hope he has a plan for building it safely but what happens if the driveshaft fails? I guess if you're creating a driveshaft hoop you could route the fuel pipe under that.
@@Mirsky256said in the video about creating driveshaft hoops
@@4inc248 i was thinking that too, but then I also realized the surge tank should take care of it, as long as it's not too long of a drift.
tank for sure needs internal baffles
Stock e30 tanks have that same setup with the line at the bottom connecting both tanks
Tank looks great! But I would revisit the line that combines the two, I feel it's just adding a potential point of failure. I would look at treating one side like a reserve tank. Maybe have a small fuel pump that can transfer fuel to the other side, or something.
All I know is there are now 2 low sides of a tank now and truck is designed to swing back and forth, one side is “active” and designed to take fuel and put it in surge tank that takes up majority of space on that side, other side is empty void “passive” and relies solely on gravity to Re supply the “active” side. With another passive void in between that is only good for transferring fuel back and forth under 3/4 tank. Maybe it’ll be fine this is just my thought process… if it doesn’t I vote corvette style twin tanks. We know you’ll get it right one way or another caleb!
if you dirt drop you might rip off the external hose and leak fuel all over the track. it sounds like a bad idea
A fuel cell bladder would help prevent fuel leaking in an accident. That with some foam for a baffle
As others have said if the driveshaft breaks and grabs the fuel line youll have another fun fire on your hands
You should make those AN lines dry disconnect for ease of disassembly. That way you don't have to drain the tank everytime you need to remove the Driveshaft which I assume will be something you'll need to remove a lot replacing clutches and stuff like that.
Love the progress on the truck can’t wait to see it done.
Wonder what the fuel capacity will be like vs the stock tank
Question there's been no fuel in the tank why didn't you just put water in and then weld it
Ngl, i wouldnt mind a hour long version of these videos
Hi Gingium
Maybe someone told you, but if the program you use to desing has a tab call preferences, the unit could be change there as it is in others programs.
Saludos compa, from Argentina
Should of welded the tabs to the plate before assembling the tank then you could of clamped some stainless to other side to work as a heat sink and keep everything flat
It's funny to me how many people threw shade about "poor decisions" on the DSM-R build. When more than likely they're probably the people who recommended the most insane ideas. But the important part isn't if you're making a mistake, it's trying not to make it twice. You're never going to know fire is hot, till you get burned.. Quite literally
Day 2 of asking gingium to do a rear mesh on the difference of height between the original bed floor and the new one to let the air from the radiator escape
The thing about encryption is, there is always a key, and there is always someone who holds it. Don't illusion yourself, but don't be paranoid either.
You should definitely need to put a guard or a ring for that driveshaft if you're going to run that fuel tank just for safety reasons.
Saw the rally Miata pop up on my marketplace what’s up with that?
What happens when u start drifting ? I don’t think that method for the fuel tank with work
Im jumping the gun here, but what you should do instead for the fuel level issue is run a venturi on the return line that picks up fuel from the dead side of the tank. Many OEM cars use this feature
Should invest in a no-dog for bending pipe. It's how electricians keep all bends in line
AWESOME !!!
tbh, I think it would be better to just remove one side of the tank that below the driveshaft cutout. so you still have enough depth for the pump and you wouldn't need to run a hose. It would reduce capacity but I think it's worth the simplicity.
What if worse case the driveshaft breaks it won't puncture the fuel cell?