UPDATE 1-10-2022. For those of you wanting to get out hands on these I have launched my new website and they are available to order right now. Please visit www.etherealproject3d.com
First things I printed with and for my SWX1 were a cover for the x-axis board and a new cover for the extruder with a BL-touch mount. Both with guides for the cables, so they sit more securely and dont bend so close to the connection. I have had this printer for about two years and so far everything is perfect.
UPDATE: This has gotten alot of positive remarks and there is alot of interest in making it available. So I am excited to announce that I have ordered all the parts necessary to put together 30 of them to sell. I will have it in 3 configurations, a kit so you can solder the bits on yourself. Or preassembled with the BL-Touch connector being a Dupont style one, or preassembled with the BL_Touch connector being a JST type.
UPDATE: For those of you wanting to purchase one I have good news. I will have boards ready to ship in the next week. The boards are $15 USD. Shipping to the us is $10, Canada and Mexico $12, Europe and Australia $15. You can choose to have it assembled or as a DIY kit. Also you can choose if you want the BL Touch connector to be the the standard DuPont type or a JST type. If you are interested please email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com
@@EtherealProject3D I'm not trying to tell you how to run your shop, that's 100% up to you. But First Class is a great way to ship things under a pound. It could save you and the customers a little bit. Either way, I'm looking forward to your boards arriving! Any idea when you might have a BLTouch video up? I'm not very savvy when it comes to modifying and flashing firmware.
Great Job, my one arrived today (europe). After my first one, I am thinking to buy additional one just a replacement for future. Please continue with this style of sidewinder-improvements.
Superb. You left us all with the taste. Please decide if you gonna sell the kit, otherwise share PCB design so that we can also benefit from it. Good work!
This happens because the top 4 pins are connected to the extuder motor. And the two bearings (625Z) inside the extruder motor get damaged easily (as they work under pressure for pulling the filament) and they need to be replaced. If not, then the extruder motor works under high friction (even stucks sometimes) and burns the cables. This is what I figured out.
Awesome job! I’d definitely buy one 👍 Would be good if you could sell them either fully soldered, or in a kit maybe so that all we have to do is solder it up 😃
Just found your channel. Great work on showing us x1 owners of how to make our Great machines that much better. I am definitely interested in your break out board. As someone who has little hand function, I need my printer to be as easy to use as possible. So a BL touch would be great. I wonder if Artillery copied your work for the new X2. But I guess you could look at it as a honor that they ďid. Will be looking for your next video. Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀
Thank you for your kind words. I don't think they copied my design, but I am interested in getting the X2 to get a good look at whats different myself. I will post an update for the breakout boards when I am ready to start shipping them. Thank you again and cheers from the USA :)
The ZIF connector is an improvement over the stock connector but it will fail eventually too … just ask owners of early versions who had the same. The fix is far simpler - just print one of the many stain relief brackets to stop the cable flexing at the socket.
I have some pictures of how to hook it all up. Email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com and i can send them your way and provide any other help you might need.
I looked at buying one of these when they were released but had concerns about the ribbon cable, at first they did not have replacement cables on their website and that was the final dealbreaker for me, in the end I bought a Creality Ender 5 Plus and built a Pro 3D V-King 400
You should be ok for a little while but I would get ferrules sooner rather tha later. It could last forever without, or they could come loose on the first print. Not having them can be a gamb.
Make a minimum of 100x. They will easily sell. That being said, Sidewinder X2 is weeks away and rumours are they have gone back to a locking tab design. Probably buy it as a spare part. The reason they moved away from it was because people wouldn’t release the tab and just yank it out. Lastly, I don’t think I have ever heard anyone say use dielectric grease for conductivity. Everyone talks about it for anti corrosion properties. Lastly, I defiantly think you should come up with a anti kinking design for the end cables. In my opinion, the bed wires kinking is the worst part of the printer. The break the power and thermistor wires. Such a shame. It’s a easy fix with some plastic sleeving. I would love for you to make a video so I can just link them on how to fix it.
The X2 doesn't have locking tabs on the PCB.. annoyingly.. also the dielectric grease is basically to ensure you don't have humidity problems and "green" rust
I believe you are right, I could likely sell a bunch of these, got to start looking into how much it would cost me and how much I would sell them for. I have seen alot of different "reasons" to use the dielectric grease, the most annoying is for conductivity, witch is why I specifically mentioned that. I solved the bed wire problem by making them longer, and having them come from the other side of the back of the printer so they don't have to bend as much over the movement range of the bed. Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching.
bonjour Laurent de France, j'ai acheté le PCB ,mais je trouve pas la pièce a imprimer pour maintenir le BL touch pouvez vous me dire ou je peux trouver cette pièce Merci hello Laurent from France, I bought the PCB, but I cannot find the part to print to maintain the BL touch can you tell me where I can find this part Thank you
Great videos! Question: Is the spacing for the new heater connector the same as the stock one? If I DIY, I'd consider just desoldering the old one, and solder in the new one. Like others, I'd also seriously consider buying one of your boards if you go that route.
Yes it is the same spacing so you could DIY it, thats what I did, then came up with my board. I will be making a batch of these to sell. Parts are on the way.
@@EtherealProject3D Great news on the custom boards, I'll keep an eye out here. I replaced my stock extruder with a Bondtech LGX/Copperhead combo, but the leads on the stock heater are too short. I did an ugly copper splice in the middle, but haven't fully tested it yet. I'll keep an eye on it, and the fire extinguisher handy! Nice to have a screw in alternative, I can just trim the (new) heater leads to fit, and have right and tight connections.
I will be charging $15 USD per board, I have not figured out shipping to the UK yet, Im looking for the most economical choice and I dont want the shipping to be more than the cost of the board itself.
This PCB is awesome. I will gladly buy it as the stock one stared to degrade at the ribbon connector. Too bad that you're located in US and i'm from Romania as the shipping fees will exceed the price of the board :(
Hello sir quick question I just purchased one of these PCB and really love the design but I am having issues with my hot end. Every time I try to heat it up it blows the 10amp fuse on the bigtree v1.4 turbo. I triple checked the wiring and looks over the hot end wiring and well switched around the wiring without luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Double check that the wires going to your heater cartridge are not shorted, its easy to accidentally make the wires touch at the heater side when messing with it. Also check for a short from the board side to the mainboard.
@@EtherealProject3D Thanks a ton I triple checked everything again last night. I did some further troubleshooting. I put on the old board and heated it up without any problems. I put the new board back on without the heater cartridge and it still pops the fuses when trying to heat it up without any extrude. The fans work fine, BLtouch functions normally when powered on just appears to be the heater cartridge. I also removed the heater cartridge to ensure nothing was shorted out to not avail.
Thank you. I have parts on the way to build 30 of them for a first batch. Will post a video about it when they are ready, be sure to subscribe so you dont miss it.
I will be ordering all the parts needed for kits, I will post a video when I am ready to start shipping. Thank you for your interest and please subscribe so you dont miss it.
@@EtherealProject3D I do recommend dielectric grease, but never without the strain relief. It doesn't improve conductivity (actually makes it "slightly" worse since it's non-conductive), but it does prevent the connection from degrading over time. Your solution is better. No doubt about that and I congratulate you on a solid good looking design. Designing a new board and sourcing better connectors is beyond the grasp of the average 3d printer user. Their choices are to hope you sell them a good board, to keep buying new parts, or to print a strain relief and get some dielectric grease... Laugh all you want. It works when implemented properly using a little common sense.
@@Scanjo With proper strain relief, yes I can see dielectric grease being used as a means to reduce corrosion. But alot of people don't know this and thus run the risk of causing unwanted damage to their printer. I will be selling my version of the board, sourcing the parts takes a little time. Thank you for your input, its always welcome. Happy 3D printing.
@@EtherealProject3D When I reply in the Artillery group I try to educate as much as possible to avoid making the problem worse. Giving a half answer is often worse than no answer. ;)
After I get the rest of the parts and get some assembled I will be posting details about how to order them, still working on the logistics at the moment. Thank you for your interest, I will keep you all up to date.
I don't really remember, I had the stock one for all of the first 2 prints. I got this one mainly because I think it looks way better and it has been working really good. Quite a few people use this one and say it is better than stock.
@@EtherealProject3D the hard part is that the 4020 don't give much pressure over its flow, so intricate ducts do not always work as intended. I'm having a hard time finding one that will let me print inner overhanging walls at 100mm/s without curling up. A 5015 looks to be the answer.
@@EtherealProject3D I think that you might get more business then you think. This is great work and you clearly care for quality. Don't wait for the market, make the market. Hopefully you can sell at a competitive price and still for a profit. You can count me as someone that would buy this 😊👍
You are not welding correctly. The tin is applied in the same place where you are heating with the soldering iron. You are using too many flux The solder you use incorrectly for soldering ALREADY HAS FLUX IN ITS CORE.
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
UPDATE 1-10-2022. For those of you wanting to get out hands on these I have launched my new website and they are available to order right now. Please visit www.etherealproject3d.com
@@slayerson1 you are very welcome, and thank you for your support.
First things I printed with and for my SWX1 were a cover for the x-axis board and a new cover for the extruder with a BL-touch mount. Both with guides for the cables, so they sit more securely and dont bend so close to the connection. I have had this printer for about two years and so far everything is perfect.
UPDATE: This has gotten alot of positive remarks and there is alot of interest in making it available. So I am excited to announce that I have ordered all the parts necessary to put together 30 of them to sell. I will have it in 3 configurations, a kit so you can solder the bits on yourself. Or preassembled with the BL-Touch connector being a Dupont style one, or preassembled with the BL_Touch connector being a JST type.
Will you ship it to México? I would like one
Count me in
Would you post to UK 🇬🇧!
Yes, So far I have found reasonable postage to Australia, UK, Mexico and Canada. I am researching ways to ship to more countries at a reasonable cost.
@@EtherealProject3D , how much would cost with postage please?
Thanks 🙏
UPDATE: For those of you wanting to purchase one I have good news. I will have boards ready to ship in the next week. The boards are $15 USD. Shipping to the us is $10, Canada and Mexico $12, Europe and Australia $15. You can choose to have it assembled or as a DIY kit. Also you can choose if you want the BL Touch connector to be the the standard DuPont type or a JST type. If you are interested please email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com
What kind of shipping is it, as $10 seems on the expensive side of things
@@tampabuc2004 USPS Priority. After factoring in the box, bag, bubble wrap, shipping lable ect it ends up costing a few cents over 10 bucks.
@@EtherealProject3D I'm not trying to tell you how to run your shop, that's 100% up to you. But First Class is a great way to ship things under a pound. It could save you and the customers a little bit. Either way, I'm looking forward to your boards arriving! Any idea when you might have a BLTouch video up? I'm not very savvy when it comes to modifying and flashing firmware.
Great Job, my one arrived today (europe). After my first one, I am thinking to buy additional one just a replacement for future. Please continue with this style of sidewinder-improvements.
Thank you very much. I have more ready to go if you want more.
Nice solder work. I can't remember the last time I had to do that fine a work. Excellent video.
Thank you very much :) You should get your soldering iron out, some big glasses and get practicing ;)
Great work man, top notch as usual!
Thank you very much.
Superb. You left us all with the taste. Please decide if you gonna sell the kit, otherwise share PCB design so that we can also benefit from it. Good work!
Well judging by how many people are asking in the first day, I'm going to get the ball rolling on a batch. Thank you for watching.
This happens because the top 4 pins are connected to the extuder motor. And the two bearings (625Z) inside the extruder motor get damaged easily (as they work under pressure for pulling the filament) and they need to be replaced. If not, then the extruder motor works under high friction (even stucks sometimes) and burns the cables. This is what I figured out.
Very well done!
Thank you sir.
Awesome job! I’d definitely buy one 👍 Would be good if you could sell them either fully soldered, or in a kit maybe so that all we have to do is solder it up 😃
I never thought about selling it as a kit, thats not a bad idea, thank you.
He sells them both ways
@@nickriker8336 I gave him the idea 😉
@@markstevensfpv3722 Thank you for the idea, those DIY guys out there really like that option, been doing good.
Just found your channel. Great work on showing us x1 owners of how to make our Great machines that much better. I am definitely interested in your break out board. As someone who has little hand function, I need my printer to be as easy to use as possible. So a BL touch would be great. I wonder if Artillery copied your work for the new X2. But I guess you could look at it as a honor that they ďid. Will be looking for your next video. Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀
Thank you for your kind words. I don't think they copied my design, but I am interested in getting the X2 to get a good look at whats different myself. I will post an update for the breakout boards when I am ready to start shipping them. Thank you again and cheers from the USA :)
Would love a copy of this board, great work :)
Thank you, Its looking more like I am going to be making some more.
The ZIF connector is an improvement over the stock connector but it will fail eventually too … just ask owners of early versions who had the same. The fix is far simpler - just print one of the many stain relief brackets to stop the cable flexing at the socket.
I agree that strain relief is a great solution. I think having a quality ZIF connector will be a great solution as well.
Hi, very cool project! I already ordered a PCB and it also arrived. Is there a guide to also install the BL-Touch! Thanks! :)
I have some pictures of how to hook it all up. Email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com and i can send them your way and provide any other help you might need.
I looked at buying one of these when they were released but had concerns about the ribbon cable, at first they did not have replacement cables on their website and that was the final dealbreaker for me, in the end I bought a Creality Ender 5 Plus and built a Pro 3D V-King 400
Sourcing the ribbon cables was going to be too costly unfortunately.
Do you have any videos on all the other updates you have done to your X1? It looks like you have some other upgraded parts! Thanks
Yes I have a few. Feel free to browse through my videos.
Excellent video, this is a much better solution as the original connector, is it possible to order a complete board and ship to the Netherlands?
Yes sir, i should have new boards ready to ship in the next week or so. Email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. I just installed this board....but didnt use the ferrules as mentioned at 4:00. Will it be ok? Will i go to hell?
You should be ok for a little while but I would get ferrules sooner rather tha later. It could last forever without, or they could come loose on the first print. Not having them can be a gamb.
I applaud this video...
Thank you.
Make a minimum of 100x. They will easily sell. That being said, Sidewinder X2 is weeks away and rumours are they have gone back to a locking tab design. Probably buy it as a spare part. The reason they moved away from it was because people wouldn’t release the tab and just yank it out.
Lastly, I don’t think I have ever heard anyone say use dielectric grease for conductivity. Everyone talks about it for anti corrosion properties.
Lastly, I defiantly think you should come up with a anti kinking design for the end cables. In my opinion, the bed wires kinking is the worst part of the printer. The break the power and thermistor wires. Such a shame. It’s a easy fix with some plastic sleeving.
I would love for you to make a video so I can just link them on how to fix it.
The X2 doesn't have locking tabs on the PCB.. annoyingly.. also the dielectric grease is basically to ensure you don't have humidity problems and "green" rust
I believe you are right, I could likely sell a bunch of these, got to start looking into how much it would cost me and how much I would sell them for. I have seen alot of different "reasons" to use the dielectric grease, the most annoying is for conductivity, witch is why I specifically mentioned that. I solved the bed wire problem by making them longer, and having them come from the other side of the back of the printer so they don't have to bend as much over the movement range of the bed. Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching.
You would think after so many people having the problem with the PCB they would fix it on the X2.
Hi guys, any reason I can't use the board without the BL? Just wanting the board as an upgrade...
Yes it will work as a plug and play option.
bonjour Laurent de France, j'ai acheté le PCB ,mais je trouve pas la pièce a imprimer pour maintenir le BL touch pouvez vous me dire ou je peux trouver cette pièce Merci
hello Laurent from France, I bought the PCB, but I cannot find the part to print to maintain the BL touch can you tell me where I can find this part Thank you
thangs.com/m/26893
@@EtherealProject3D thank you so much
Great videos! Question: Is the spacing for the new heater connector the same as the stock one? If I DIY, I'd consider just desoldering the old one, and solder in the new one. Like others, I'd also seriously consider buying one of your boards if you go that route.
Yes it is the same spacing so you could DIY it, thats what I did, then came up with my board. I will be making a batch of these to sell. Parts are on the way.
@@EtherealProject3D Great news on the custom boards, I'll keep an eye out here. I replaced my stock extruder with a Bondtech LGX/Copperhead combo, but the leads on the stock heater are too short. I did an ugly copper splice in the middle, but haven't fully tested it yet. I'll keep an eye on it, and the fire extinguisher handy! Nice to have a screw in alternative, I can just trim the (new) heater leads to fit, and have right and tight connections.
@@timlasson4093 If you do get the new board, I would recommend getting a new heater with longer wires that you can cut to the exact size you need.
awesome
Thank you
Do you think you could do this for the Artillery Genius since it falls victim to the same thing?
That is in the works.
I have 4 Sidewinders all fitted with a BLTouch. How much will it cost for a fully soldered board with JST connector (BLTouch) shipped to the UK?
I will be charging $15 USD per board, I have not figured out shipping to the UK yet, Im looking for the most economical choice and I dont want the shipping to be more than the cost of the board itself.
@@EtherealProject3D Great please let me know the shipping costs when you have them. I'd like 4 of them if the shipping works out.
This PCB is awesome. I will gladly buy it as the stock one stared to degrade at the ribbon connector. Too bad that you're located in US and i'm from Romania as the shipping fees will exceed the price of the board :(
Thank you, we might be able to figure out a way.
@@EtherealProject3D, that would be great. If you want, we can continue the discussion on email. Thank you very much!
I would be interested in a purchase if you decide to do a batch.
I have made a batch, you can order here forms.gle/nfrVTTCrRPzuCJij9
Would you post to UK 🇬🇧?
Yes I will be shipping to UK, still working out a carrier and pricing. I will have an update video as soon as I know.
Question, can the X2 breakout be used with the X1? Your extruder looks like the X2 in this video
No it can not.
@@EtherealProject3D okay. I am interested in the X1 breakout board if you ever plan to make it available.
@@EVGizmo yes i will be making more.
Hello sir quick question I just purchased one of these PCB and really love the design but I am having issues with my hot end. Every time I try to heat it up it blows the 10amp fuse on the bigtree v1.4 turbo. I triple checked the wiring and looks over the hot end wiring and well switched around the wiring without luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Double check that the wires going to your heater cartridge are not shorted, its easy to accidentally make the wires touch at the heater side when messing with it. Also check for a short from the board side to the mainboard.
@@EtherealProject3D Thanks a ton I triple checked everything again last night. I did some further troubleshooting. I put on the old board and heated it up without any problems. I put the new board back on without the heater cartridge and it still pops the fuses when trying to heat it up without any extrude. The fans work fine, BLtouch functions normally when powered on just appears to be the heater cartridge. I also removed the heater cartridge to ensure nothing was shorted out to not avail.
@@EtherealProject3D Really appreciate your response and help with this!
@@LazyDayFPV. Ok, i will send a new board to you today, sorry for any inconvenience.
Could you email me your order number at etherealproject3d@gmail.com
I would love to buy a fully mounted PCB
Thank you. I have parts on the way to build 30 of them for a first batch. Will post a video about it when they are ready, be sure to subscribe so you dont miss it.
Put me down for one if you do a run.
Will do, thanks for watching :)
Interested in kit!
I will be ordering all the parts needed for kits, I will post a video when I am ready to start shipping. Thank you for your interest and please subscribe so you dont miss it.
Спасибо!
Your welcome!
Take my money 💰 also if you could do the X pcb too put me on that list. Thanks for the video.
Haha thank you. I don't see a benefit with changing the X PCB, they already have locking connectors. Curious as to why you want to redo the X PCB?
@@EtherealProject3D They don't all have locking connectors.
Can you ship to South-Africa?
Yes I can, shipping to South Africa will cost $15.
I would like to buy one please.
I will update as soon as they are ready, still waiting on some of the parts.
So you give up the Neopixel when using this board? Just checking.
You give up the stock RGB light yes.
Hi, impossible ti join you. Do you still prepar the card?
I will have more available shortly
@@EtherealProject3D hi, so happy about your answer cause i thought you didn't check anymore your video due the age. 😉
@@pascalcolin no problem. I have been busy this summer but should be getting back into the swing of things soon.
Which way is the BL Touch cable supposed to plug into the board?
Yellow, red, brown, black, white starting from the gantry.
@@EtherealProject3D Thanks, I figured it out with the ohmmeter. Works great! Thanks for all the work you put in it.
Do you have a link for the stl file for the BLT mount that you are using?
@@nflgun You are very welcome.
@@nflgun Yes I do, email me at etherealproject3d@gmail.com
hahahahahaha XD "congratz, you just greased an already wiggly/loose connection"
Yes, a very ironic "solution" Glad you liked it :)
@@EtherealProject3D I do recommend dielectric grease, but never without the strain relief. It doesn't improve conductivity (actually makes it "slightly" worse since it's non-conductive), but it does prevent the connection from degrading over time.
Your solution is better. No doubt about that and I congratulate you on a solid good looking design. Designing a new board and sourcing better connectors is beyond the grasp of the average 3d printer user. Their choices are to hope you sell them a good board, to keep buying new parts, or to print a strain relief and get some dielectric grease... Laugh all you want. It works when implemented properly using a little common sense.
@@Scanjo With proper strain relief, yes I can see dielectric grease being used as a means to reduce corrosion. But alot of people don't know this and thus run the risk of causing unwanted damage to their printer. I will be selling my version of the board, sourcing the parts takes a little time. Thank you for your input, its always welcome. Happy 3D printing.
@@EtherealProject3D When I reply in the Artillery group I try to educate as much as possible to avoid making the problem worse. Giving a half answer is often worse than no answer. ;)
@@Scanjo Good on you.
How would I go about purchasing one of these from you?
After I get the rest of the parts and get some assembled I will be posting details about how to order them, still working on the logistics at the moment. Thank you for your interest, I will keep you all up to date.
What about that fan duct? Did it make any difference over the stock one?
I don't really remember, I had the stock one for all of the first 2 prints. I got this one mainly because I think it looks way better and it has been working really good. Quite a few people use this one and say it is better than stock.
@@EtherealProject3D the hard part is that the 4020 don't give much pressure over its flow, so intricate ducts do not always work as intended. I'm having a hard time finding one that will let me print inner overhanging walls at 100mm/s without curling up. A 5015 looks to be the answer.
@@brunoosti1 A bigger fan will always help with those pesky overhangs.
Link to buy? Ship to Spain?
Currently building a website for the order process. Yes I will ship to spain. Not 100% sure what shiping costs will be to spain.
Wehre you can buy ??
If I get enough people interested, I will make some to sell.
@@EtherealProject3D Super !
@@EtherealProject3D I think that you might get more business then you think. This is great work and you clearly care for quality. Don't wait for the market, make the market. Hopefully you can sell at a competitive price and still for a profit. You can count me as someone that would buy this 😊👍
@@gilbertpatrucco5196 I will be making 30 of them to start with. Still need to figure out the best means of selling them.
@@EtherealProject3D where are you located?
You are not welding correctly. The tin is applied in the same place where you are heating with the soldering iron. You are using too many flux The solder you use incorrectly for soldering ALREADY HAS FLUX IN ITS CORE.
Thank you for your consideration.