Without those dovetails I don't think your retro fit taper attachment would have been rigid enough only being held there with two bolts. So no time wasted and its always good to challenge ones self and come up with solutions where there might not be one. There might be many other people who might find this video over the years who are thankful that you provided a solution for them and now they can turn tapers and such. Thanks Mr. Pete for your amazing contribution to furthering peoples involvement in metalworking!
Absolutely, at the very least the making of that adapter showed us another series of planning and machining. It also helps others that have to make the same or similar part. Not wasted time at all.
Most older machinists still have a sense of generosity, over greed. The dovetail on the aluminum extension, I think, was needed for rigidity. The extension was an elegant solution to your problem. Twenty years from now, when they hold your auction, people are going to be able to buy some very nice, complete, lathes. Thank you for restoring and maintaining our machining history, from when the USA was the world standard.
I too thought the dovetail on the aluminum extension would give added rigidity so it wasn't wasted effort if you did have to use the part. Thanks again for your time and efforts. I've learned so much from you.
Congrats on the sponsor Mr. Pete! Very generous of John to send you those parts! Kudos and thanks to all that support our TH-cam Shop Teacher!! That compound mount does look to be a copy of the Atlas design. I'd think there should be those tapered wedges under set screws for that round dovetail like the Atlas. Someone probably improvised with the dog points.
I find your off-topic excursions just as informative and useful as the on-topic stuff. Besides, a retiree never really wastes his time, the journey is just as enjoyable as the destination!
Lyle, Fine series of videos. It was great John sent the taper attachment. Back to watching a few more of your videos. Think I'm about half finished. :-)
Good video Lyle, really a lot of information about taper attachments. I like the simplicity of the Logan design, it looks like the inventive mind could re-design the same for the home shop fairly effectively. Cheers!
I watch a lot of your videos multiple times. Love hearing stuff hit the trash can or floor. I'm sure the machined Logan lathe attachment, along with the raw casting would fetch a good price on ebay.
Your original plan- the longer dovetail would act to keep the taper extension from moving since only two screws fasten it to the cross slide. The only problem I'd see with that is perhaps more friction but I'd think that wouldn't be a problem that way oil couldn't overcome. Besides, you could always just remove the gib if it was. Nice to see the wonderful generosity in getting the exact taper part! Even two of them! Congratulations on your being sponsored!
You suggested in a video, if you don't have a height gauge, get one. So I did. A Moore and Wright 300mm. It must be the seniors edition because it has a magnifying glass that flips over onto the scale. Brilliant thing. Now to buy a mill, and tooling and gauge blocks and.....errrgghhhh
I watched the OEM version of this first. I have to say I very much prefer your aluminum cast version much more. While watching the OEM version you stated it did not have the dovetail and you surmised that it wasn't necessary especially being cast iron. But in watching the OEM demonstration a very discernible twisting can be seen as you operate it. Where with this custom cast aluminum it is rock solid throughout your testing of it. This can only be due to the dovetail providing much greater support and rigidity regardless of being of a softer material. I must applaud your impeccable work on this custom tooling and suggest you compare the 2 different ones for flex and accuracy. I believe you will be pleasantly surprised. P.S. First posted this comment on the aluminum version as well for both your and commenters benefit.
mrpete222, if for nothing else your work inspires others. And being a man of the Lord, we know the path of hardship is the road less traveled but also the one of greater reward.
My thoughts on the part that you made. The dove tail you put in it would make it more rigid since it was two parts instead of one casting. So I think it was a good idea. Thanks for the great videos!
I'm actually sorry you got the parts shipped to you, Mr. Pete. I enjoy your approach to solving the problems that come up and you solve when fabricating the missing pieces. Thanks for the video but your time wouldn't be wasted if you finished the part you were making.
Hmm . A pair of cam follower bearings bolted to that could turn that into a tracer attachment. Can you also narrow the guide bar bracket to give you more angle
I have to say, I noticed that cross slide racking a little when you changed direction. Sounds to me like the extra dovetail on your shop built taper attachment might actually be superior to the factory design!
Thanks for the content tubalcain. I'm wondering if a man of your knowledge could possibly help me in the metal department. I have a stainless steel stud (A2 or 304) that's broken off flush with an aluminium cylinder head. What can I do to remove this stud? I.e what type of drill bit would work best, should I even attempt to drill and use an easy out or will the metals have galled together? It's only been in the cylinder head for about 3 months or just over. Do you know how long it takes for these metals to gall.. if they at all do? It's causing me major issues, im scared to attempt to remove it as I've heard of easy outs breaking and they're hardened tool steel and would be even harder to remove. I know it's off topic, I really just need some great advice from an experienced worker such as yourself. You can see you have had many many years experience and it does show! I understand if you don't see my comment but if you do consider any help I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you
Mrpete222 I have the taper attachment for my Logan 825 lathe except I am missing the small slide piece that slides along the bar of the taper attachment. I sure could use the extra one you showed early in the video, I don’t know if you have plans for it but I’d be willing to buy one if you have one available.
Mr Peterson I wonder if you can help answer a question? In the US it seems the normal practice is to have the compound permanently offset "for threading". This is a practice that seems unique to North America and I was hoping you could identify when the practice became established. I have a theory it may relate to war time production when men and women from other occupations were employed as turners. During my training we always kept the compound parallel to the bed unless threading some coarse pitch. I can see advantages and disadvantages for both practices so I find it curious the option seems to have divided along geographical boundaries. BTW the new cross slide seems to have a large gap over the old dovetails might I suggest a rubber scraper to seal up the gap.
We always keep it at 29 deg. Then it does not strike the tailstock nor at 0 deg would it interfere with the crossfeed. Keeping parallel seems strange to me.
Great video, I have a Logan 12" model 2555V that I wish I could find a taper attachment for. If you get anyone responding to you that they have one for a 12" Logan, please let me know.
Mr. Pete nice video #402,I'm assembling my 10" logan lathe at this time, I'm working on the taper attachment but I'm missing the sliding block on the bar back there,would you please sell it to me if you have 1 to spare,thank you?
Can you put me in touch with the guy in Oklahoma who has an extended cross slide. I am missing that part for my lathe and would like to purchase it from him.
Would you be willing to part with the bolt on piece you made? I'm just getting started (bought lathe this past spring) and dont yet have the skills or equipment to make one. Thanks Alan
Without those dovetails I don't think your retro fit taper attachment would have been rigid enough only being held there with two bolts. So no time wasted and its always good to challenge ones self and come up with solutions where there might not be one. There might be many other people who might find this video over the years who are thankful that you provided a solution for them and now they can turn tapers and such. Thanks Mr. Pete for your amazing contribution to furthering peoples involvement in metalworking!
+CRANEDRUMS thanks, glad you liked it
MrPete please don't consider it wasted time, you educated us. After all you're our TH-cam shop teacher.....
some folk don't understand, the skills you give us all are life lasting., i see it, and watch every minute you give us..
Mr Pete you didn't waste four days of your life you showed us great videos! Thanks again
Absolutely, at the very least the making of that adapter showed us another series of planning and machining.
It also helps others that have to make the same or similar part. Not wasted time at all.
Hear. hear! Not wasted at all.
Mr Pete, the generosity that others show to you is a natural reaction to the generosity you display with what you do.
You are lucky to get that unit, been looking ...... Thanks always great information
Very informative and entertaining Mr Pete.Thank you.
Another great video. Thanks Mr. Pete.
mrpete.I´m fascinated with this TAPER ATTACHMENT mechanism.This is a journey through time and space.Thank you.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing sir...
Thanks agin for the effort doing the videos. I also receive a Taper part from one of your viewers. Yes you channel is a real treasure to us.
Most older machinists still have a sense of generosity, over greed. The dovetail on the aluminum extension, I think, was needed for rigidity. The extension was an elegant solution to your problem. Twenty years from now, when they hold your auction, people are going to be able to buy some very nice, complete, lathes. Thank you for restoring and maintaining our machining history, from when the USA was the world standard.
I too thought the dovetail on the aluminum extension would give added rigidity so it wasn't wasted effort if you did have to use the part. Thanks again for your time and efforts. I've learned so much from you.
Very helpful video always appreciate your tutorial. Keep up the great work you inspire me to do better.
Glad to help
Nice video. I liked your dovetail design.
Congrats on the sponsor Mr. Pete!
Very generous of John to send you those parts! Kudos and thanks to all that support our TH-cam Shop Teacher!!
That compound mount does look to be a copy of the Atlas design. I'd think there should be those tapered wedges under set screws for that round dovetail like the Atlas. Someone probably improvised with the dog points.
it has wedges--I just did not show them
I find your off-topic excursions just as informative and useful as the on-topic stuff. Besides, a retiree never really wastes his time, the journey is just as enjoyable as the destination!
Thank you Sensei...
Congratulations on the new sponsor! Love your videos as always
Lyle,
Fine series of videos. It was great John sent the taper attachment. Back to watching a few more of your videos. Think I'm about half finished. :-)
It'll take a while, but it's well worth it!
Very nice.
A most fortuitous turn of events. Thank you Mr. Pete.
Hey Mate - loved your video! Wish we had more like this here in Australia
👍👍
Good video Lyle, really a lot of information about taper attachments. I like the simplicity of the Logan design, it looks like the inventive mind could re-design the same for the home shop fairly effectively. Cheers!
I watch a lot of your videos multiple times. Love hearing stuff hit the trash can or floor. I'm sure the machined Logan lathe attachment, along with the raw casting would fetch a good price on ebay.
+Mature Patriot thanks, hope you got a laugh
I liked the first video as it showed me how I might make one for my lathe.
Excellent vid as usual thanks, Pete. Rudy.
Wonderful generosity on here, indeed! Great viewing for a Saturday morning. Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
That would be a great attachment for cutting tapered threads.
The Logan is an excellent lathe. All high-quality ball bearings in the headstock. KBC is an excellent supplier.
There are some good people out there.
Congrats on the KBC Tools. I've been buying from them for years.
thanks--I bought from them at school 45 yrs ago
Your original plan- the longer dovetail would act to keep the taper extension from moving since only two screws fasten it to the cross slide. The only problem I'd see with that is perhaps more friction but I'd think that wouldn't be a problem that way oil couldn't overcome. Besides, you could always just remove the gib if it was.
Nice to see the wonderful generosity in getting the exact taper part! Even two of them!
Congratulations on your being sponsored!
You suggested in a video, if you don't have a height gauge, get one. So I did. A Moore and Wright 300mm. It must be the seniors edition because it has a magnifying glass that flips over onto the scale. Brilliant thing. Now to buy a mill, and tooling and gauge blocks and.....errrgghhhh
wow -thats a great brand
mrpete222 yeah it's pretty heavy and well made. Lucky me I scored it on gumtree for 100 Aussie bucks.
I watched the OEM version of this first. I have to say I very much prefer your aluminum cast version much more. While watching the OEM version you stated it did not have the dovetail and you surmised that it wasn't necessary especially being cast iron. But in watching the OEM demonstration a very discernible twisting can be seen as you operate it. Where with this custom cast aluminum it is rock solid throughout your testing of it. This can only be due to the dovetail providing much greater support and rigidity regardless of being of a softer material. I must applaud your impeccable work on this custom tooling and suggest you compare the 2 different ones for flex and accuracy. I believe you will be pleasantly surprised. P.S. First posted this comment on the aluminum version as well for both your and commenters benefit.
+HerLion11388 thank you, very insightful. Many criticize me for wasting my time with the dovetail
mrpete222, if for nothing else your work inspires others. And being a man of the Lord, we know the path of hardship is the road less traveled but also the one of greater reward.
My thoughts on the part that you made. The dove tail you put in it would make it more rigid since it was two parts instead of one casting. So I think it was a good idea. Thanks for the great videos!
rigidity was main goal
,,, sittin' in,, very good,,
We have the same ring tone, haha, made me check my phone
No Tubalcain video is ever wasted. I think your home made taper attachment would have been stiff enough with the dove tails.
To the man in Omaha: I sure could put that taper compound plate to good use.
I'm actually sorry you got the parts shipped to you, Mr. Pete. I enjoy your approach to solving the problems that come up and you solve when fabricating the missing pieces. Thanks for the video but your time wouldn't be wasted if you finished the part you were making.
He did finish it, and showed it in use in the mentioned previous videos.
+ShysterLawyer yes
Now you need to make a telescoping screw for that lathe. Then the cross feed will still work.
Hmm . A pair of cam follower bearings bolted to that could turn that into a tracer attachment.
Can you also narrow the guide bar bracket to give you more angle
YUPP if it's free it's for me , everyone loves it even an old cripple has a heart
Chuckle, of course you found a washer. All that clean living had to pay off eventually!
I have to say, I noticed that cross slide racking a little when you changed direction. Sounds to me like the extra dovetail on your shop built taper attachment might actually be superior to the factory design!
Thanks for the content tubalcain. I'm wondering if a man of your knowledge could possibly help me in the metal department. I have a stainless steel stud (A2 or 304) that's broken off flush with an aluminium cylinder head. What can I do to remove this stud? I.e what type of drill bit would work best, should I even attempt to drill and use an easy out or will the metals have galled together?
It's only been in the cylinder head for about 3 months or just over. Do you know how long it takes for these metals to gall.. if they at all do?
It's causing me major issues, im scared to attempt to remove it as I've heard of easy outs breaking and they're hardened tool steel and would be even harder to remove.
I know it's off topic, I really just need some great advice from an experienced worker such as yourself. You can see you have had many many years experience and it does show! I understand if you don't see my comment but if you do consider any help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you
Mrpete222 I have the taper attachment for my Logan 825 lathe except I am missing the small slide piece that slides along the bar of the taper attachment. I sure could use the extra one you showed early in the video, I don’t know if you have plans for it but I’d be willing to buy one if you have one available.
Mr Peterson I wonder if you can help answer a question? In the US it seems the normal practice is to have the compound permanently offset "for threading". This is a practice that seems unique to North America and I was hoping you could identify when the practice became established. I have a theory it may relate to war time production when men and women from other occupations were employed as turners. During my training we always kept the compound parallel to the bed unless threading some coarse pitch. I can see advantages and disadvantages for both practices so I find it curious the option seems to have divided along geographical boundaries. BTW the new cross slide seems to have a large gap over the old dovetails might I suggest a rubber scraper to seal up the gap.
We always keep it at 29 deg. Then it does not strike the tailstock nor at 0 deg would it interfere with the crossfeed.
Keeping parallel seems strange to me.
Great video, I have a Logan 12" model 2555V that I wish I could find a taper attachment for. If you get anyone responding to you that they have one for a 12" Logan, please let me know.
👍
Mr. Pete nice video #402,I'm assembling my 10" logan lathe at this time, I'm working on the taper attachment but I'm missing the sliding block on the bar back there,would you please sell it to me if you have 1 to spare,thank you?
Looks like three knuckle-heads from Practical Machinist were here...
Good Video! Having had experience with older/used lathes what would you expect the run out would be 1' from the chuck
for an acceptable machine?
I hope your wife is more forgiving on borrowing her towels than mine; I wouldn't dare!
Mr. Pete, any experience with the Lever-Matic collet chuck?
Sorry, no
Oh yea, TH-cam changed the world... : )
Do great work guess people with bad mouths
Can you put me in touch with the guy in Oklahoma who has an extended cross slide. I am missing that part for my lathe and would like to purchase it from him.
+Alan Falkowski sorry, I lost all that info
Would you be willing to part with the bolt on piece you made? I'm just getting started (bought lathe this past spring) and dont yet have the skills or equipment to make one. Thanks Alan
Hello I need the part that bolts to the cross slide and follows the bar,I see it on your bench help I have everthing except that thanks
I sold the machine several years ago
Thank you for the reply I will keep searching ,I enjoy your video's
Wonder how many people know what Monkey Wards means. 😁
Like most your videos are too help the viewers to make stuff