We’ll talk about ball joint angle in the next one. I honestly haven’t come up with the solution yet! The angle of tapered stud does not matter, but the angle of the socket that the ball joint rests in is VERY important because it determines how much movement the joint will have and therefore determine how much the suspension can move before the ball joint binds.
@@GarageFab What about using a ball joint with set screws added to lock it in place? Sounds good in my head, reality may be a different story. I've been pondering over this one all morning since watching your video.
@@GarageFab What about using a bullet hinge under the ball joint mount you made? Then to lock the angle you can have a plate on the side with a gusset. Then use the same nut/bolt arrangement on the opposite side of the nut/bolt for the slider. You would only need to cut your current mount off of the slider. Then place the bullet hinge between them and weld in place.
@Arvizu Design&Fab @Garage Fab As far as being able to adjust the angle at which the ball joint is mounted to the control arm bushings - Wouldn't it be as insanely easy as making the flat stock for the control arm bushing jig longer - and instead of a single hole on each one to slide a bolt through, you were to cut a long slot instead? ... Moving the control arm bushing up / down changes the angle between it and the ball joint.
I think for lift you want to look at the knuckle as the lift device and keep the control arms as close to stock as possible to control use of original ball joint angels as well as steering shock and spring control points, if you force the knuckle to do the lift then ideally you can use stock parts, otherwise you get into needing to customize steering connection angles too. I'm not 100 % sure though and right now have a 2wd 64 c10 with 3 inche of knuckle lift so I'm following this too with the desire to make custom tube arms and switch over to coil over shocks.
Love your recepticle for the Taper 👍 A side thought,,, have you ever considered putting the set screw in the corner of the tube? it cancels the slop both ways and it prevents the tube from being dented when tightend.
Great idea. When I modded my lowers to clear 2600 bags I did a lot of "welding in supports to be cut out later." Awesome idea I'll need to put it in my bag of tricks for later.
Dude.. I’m an old retired GI. My final retirement gift for myself was to fab a hot rod out of a POS (junk) 48 Ford F1… anyhow, I’m building front suspension now, and have soooo far to go before it moves under its own steam. I appreciate your enthusiasm and ability to share. OCD is truly a curse…. 😂
Nice! Can’t wait to see it! There’s nothing more rewarding than building your own toy. OCD is certainly a curse, but a blessing as well. The opposite, I believe, would be a hack with no patience or pride. 🤔
Dude, you are a freaking genius and and inspiration. I am currently doing major restoration work on my '96 t100 and I have found your videos an exellent help with what would have been absolutely daunting work. You are a fountain of positive energy! Continue making exellent quality content and thriving!
Thank you, Chet! Your kind words are incredibly motivating. So very much appreciated. Ironically I’m also a Toyota specialist. If you’ve got questions you know where to find me! 👊
Listen you’re one of my favorite channels to watch and I really find all your stuff super interesting but…please for the love of god make more content! Waiting 2 weeks for the 2nd part of this video is making me crazy lol
3 weeks actually! Thank you my friend. I’m thrilled these videos are able to produce so much anticipation. Unfortunately for TH-cam, I have a full-time job and minimal spare time. Fabrication is a slow process and video editing is even slower. I hope that TH-cam alone will one day support me and my family. Then I can focus on making videos all day every day and actually have a weekend to relax. Then I could maintain a weekly or even two videos a week schedule. Until then, video creation gets the scraps of spare time and energy I’ve got left after life-ing. Aiming for every two weeks, but ultimately the complexity of the project will decide.
This could also come in handy for prototyping. I have two cars which are going to need custom arms, upper and lower. One is more than 60 years old, so the suspension geometry is basically from a covered wagon. The other has McPherson struts up front and will need grownup suspension at some point. With this jig I could switch it out to do the uppers and lowers for each car. I could also whip up a few variations to see what different arm lengths did for scrub, bump steer, etc. About the only change I would make would be to add gradations on the tubing so I could tell at a glance what the length and width of the arm was.
I’d love to see all that. I’d also like to see a unit complete masterfully assembled with graduations laser etched. I currently just use a sharpie if a change needs to be made. Not very glamorous!
Man how beautiful this device is, since I'm thinking of making double-A trays on my trike your idea will help me a lot. Well I'm suspicious of compliments because I'm your fan and I follow your projects a lot. Congratulations, and thank you very much for sharing your device.
So do I!! Too much work to not have a tangible symbol of growth. That silly counter helps keep me motivated. Thank you my friend for always being there. 🙏
Nice fixture! Clear directions and reasons for why you do things. Even though it was a short video it was a great one! Well, except for that hideously oversized bolt!😉🤣
Are all control arms just a flat triangle between the bushings and balljoint? I thought there would be some angles involved on how the ball joint was mounted that needs to be worried about?
That will definitely be addressed in the next video. No! They are NOT all flat. The amount a ball joint moves for given amount of suspension travel needs to be considered. Otherwise you might find your bell joint binding.
Garage fab, I enjoyed the short video. It was clear and to the point. Also, I try to comment on every on of your video to help you channel get the attendtion it deserves.
I like this because with this, a tape measure, and an online link calculator, you can easily make custom links with whatever geometry your heart desires. Also. 4:56. My guy, let me tell you about a nifty tool called a "reamer" 😂
You mean an arm breaker!? I actually think I have one of those somewhere. I gotta see if the angle is correct. That would be a good use. The challenge would be the location of the ball joint between the bushings. But if you start with a factory control arm that would be cake. I intend to use this jig on the next project to turn Chevy Impala control arms into much longer ones for a wider stance.
If you also weld the mounting tabs to opposite side of the sliding sleeves you can flip the whole jig over and make the mirror image for the other side of the car in one setup.
Great concept! I feel the center tube being able to move is adding an unnecessary variable that could be bumped out of place. The bushing locators already have the freedom to off center the ball joint. An adjustment for the ball joint angle would be a nice addition, so that the ball joint could be put in straight, or at whatever angle needed keeping the joint itself straight. That may be going back to my first note thought of being another variable that could be bummed out of place.
@@path4514 I fully understand what his intentions are. If you would be so kind to reread my comment, you'll see I was only offering ideas to improve his jig. The center arm moving on the same axis as the bushing mounts, is an unneeded motion. The bushing mounts are already able to move giving the ability to offset the ball joint. Welds, even as small as a tack weld want to pull. The less places that are able to move in a jig, the more likely the final product can be repeated.
@@path4514 say 1 movable part can shift 1/32". That's not much and can easily be worked with. Each movable part you add though, that small amount grows. With 3 that's the potential for 3/32". That's starting to dance on almost 1/8". The 3rd doesnt need to be there seeing as the other 2 can do what it's doing. I would however bolt it instead of welding it, so that it can still be broke down for smaller storage. All in all it's a great idea. I just learned the more room you leave for possible error, the more likely it is to bite you.
It's a great idea that makes replication much easier was wanting to build my own uppers and adjust the angle to help with binding issues. You could make the ballpoint mount plate for specific arms to bolt the plate too, and simply slide on which ever jig you needed. But if your building customs arms, you could use any join you like the look of or have access to easiest work as well.
🤔 You could technically measure the distance of the vertical bar from one of the bushings and move it that distance to the other bushing and the rotate the ball joint socket and voila. Mirrored.
Very cool, If you ever need an idea for a video we would love to learn how to make A-Arms for a custom (not factory from scratch) project. You are a great instructor!!
Have you got a custom that needs arms?! This jig would still help quite a bit. You would just need to set it up using measurements rather than an old control arm but it could be done!
Absolutely. The mathematical part would be a challenge! (Meaning how much movement is needed to create a given degree increase in camber or caster?) 🤯 But after you figure that out it would be cake!
That’s a badass simple little tool!!! To prevent movement from welding, do any of the mounting tabs need to be gusseted? I plan on making one of these, great idea.
I haven’t had any problems yet not having gussets. In fact the absence of gussets comes in handy often because you can turn the tabs around if you need tabs close together or close to the center tube.
Don’t mind the short video especially for such a great project! I have 1 question: where are you going to find 4 larger bolts to match that center one! 😳
This is awesome bro. I’ve been subscribed to your channel for a long time but never seen this vid. Just so happens I’m planning on making some controller arms soon. This will be perfect.
Dude that's a nice jig. I recently built one to lengthen a swingarm on a 78 Honda cx500. Freaking drive shaft bikes suck. Thanks for the vids brother they are definitely worth the watch.
@@GarageFab Not yet! Still on Mustang II chassis mods and engine. Z28 is still on the trailer! It's like eating an elephant, take one bite at a time! I always enjoy your work!
First time I've seen the holesaw trick. 👍🏼 "It doesn't match, and it makes my OCD ache. 😂 I say something similar almost every day, "It makes my OCD flare up" 😅
This is amazing! I'm gonna see if my buddy (a pro welder) and I can do this so I can make some tubular control arms for my Dakota. I'm not sure if I saw an option to modify the control arm to push in or out the ball joint mount location to modify camber for lowered trucks. Maybe I didn't pay attention enough? ADHD..... All you would have to do then is know how much longer the (upper for instance) stock control arm would need to be to push out the wheel at desired ride height..... Does my thinking make sense? You would just move the ball joint mount bracket further out to make the wheel straighten up and down based on ride height? I hope I didn't ramble too much to make this confusing.... 😜😜
Not confusing at all! The fixture that holds the tapered stud on the ball joint is on a sliding sleeve, so all you would need to do is determine how much you need to push the ball joint out, make a mark and slide the fixture to its new location. Determining how much movement equals your desired change in camber would be the challenge. Because math. 🤮
Hmmmm. 🤔 Not yet. I just have other sliding tabs with various hole sizes. I suppose it’s doable to change the holes in a single set of tabs. Thorbros.com sells mock-up bushings with inserts (basically washers) to change the through bolt size. I imagine you could do something similar to that!
Sorry Florencio, not yet! The image you’re seeing is fake! It’s a digital rendering of my next project that begins as soon as I finish my Wife’s truck. It hasn’t been officially been announced yet but it will have two V8 engines, all-wheel-drive, and 4 wheel steering. I’m excited about it!
Maybe I don't understand how this works, but all 3 points are in a fixed plane and angle. Wouldn't you need to be able to raise/lower the ball joint end and set it at the appropriate angle?
Yes, you absolutely need to set the ball joint housing angle. The height of the ball or the angle of the arm however, doesn’t matter as far as geometry goes. When fitting the original control arm into the fixture, you must take note of the angle of the ball joint housing and make sure the new arm is the same. (Unless you need more ball joint movement. In that event you’d probably want to choose a new angle.)
@@GarageFabSome control arms are curved for suspension travel, or to orient the spring pocket toward the frame etc., but I suppose you could still account for that by bending the tubing and mocking up as needed. Also, shouldn't you capture the location of the lower shock mount too?
Truth. That’s some advanced stuff there. The jig only holds the bushings and ball joints in the proper orientation and the proper distance from one another. Clearance of other components will be up to the builder. As for the shocks, most of the trucks I’ve built have a shock absorber that’s mounted through the center of the spring. That’s not an option with the typical air spring. So the shock needs to be relocated elsewhere. There will be a video on that in the near future.
Absolutely. With this jig in particular, you would just set it up with a factory control arm, and then slide the ball joint holder out the amount you want to extend the control arm.
Wait you lost me with the ball joint??? This guy is freakin nuts !!! Seriously though, excellent tutorial.. something about your voice just makes me want to………………….
I’m concerned about how that sentence was going to end. 😳 There’s some missing info about the ball joint that I’ll be addressing in the next video, so hopefully that’ll it all better. Where did you get lost? Thank you, Jason!
@@GarageFab you do an excellent job of explaining your content. I’m always looking for new fab stuff to watch here. About the ball joint, the last set of arms I built had uniballs on them.
Nice idea sir!! For control arms for lifted trucks would it be be necessary to add a twisting ball joint mount??
We’ll talk about ball joint angle in the next one. I honestly haven’t come up with the solution yet! The angle of tapered stud does not matter, but the angle of the socket that the ball joint rests in is VERY important because it determines how much movement the joint will have and therefore determine how much the suspension can move before the ball joint binds.
@@GarageFab What about using a ball joint with set screws added to lock it in place? Sounds good in my head, reality may be a different story. I've been pondering over this one all morning since watching your video.
@@GarageFab What about using a bullet hinge under the ball joint mount you made? Then to lock the angle you can have a plate on the side with a gusset. Then use the same nut/bolt arrangement on the opposite side of the nut/bolt for the slider. You would only need to cut your current mount off of the slider. Then place the bullet hinge between them and weld in place.
@Arvizu Design&Fab
@Garage Fab
As far as being able to adjust the angle at which the ball joint is mounted to the control arm bushings - Wouldn't it be as insanely easy as making the flat stock for the control arm bushing jig longer - and instead of a single hole on each one to slide a bolt through, you were to cut a long slot instead? ... Moving the control arm bushing up / down changes the angle between it and the ball joint.
I think for lift you want to look at the knuckle as the lift device and keep the control arms as close to stock as possible to control use of original ball joint angels as well as steering shock and spring control points, if you force the knuckle to do the lift then ideally you can use stock parts, otherwise you get into needing to customize steering connection angles too. I'm not 100 % sure though and right now have a 2wd 64 c10 with 3 inche of knuckle lift so I'm following this too with the desire to make custom tube arms and switch over to coil over shocks.
Short, simple, and crystal clear. This channel deserves so many more subs than it has.
Just found this channel and I totally agree
@taylorthomas2880 Greatly appreciated, Taylor. Thank you. 🙏 Thrilled to have you my friend.
How does this have such high production value and build talent for only 40k subs?!
Feels like when I found VGG a while before he blew up
All in good time my friend! Patience. Glad you found me! Maybe that means I’m next! 😂 Cheers mate!
You post , I watch , I Like , I leave.
Sounds like a fantastic relationship! Thank you!
you have a fantastic mechanical mind ....I like the hole saw trick ....
Thank you, Pete!
Love your recepticle for the Taper 👍 A side thought,,, have you ever considered putting the set screw in the corner of the tube? it cancels the slop both ways and it prevents the tube from being dented when tightend.
I put a diagonal set screw in a tool stand system I created! I’m not sure why I didn’t do that on this. 🤔
That is an absolutely brilliant idea to accept the taper of the balljoint. So simple and works perfectly
Sometimes simplicity is best. Thank you, Michael!
Glad i found this channel. Great vid.
Great idea. When I modded my lowers to clear 2600 bags I did a lot of "welding in supports to be cut out later." Awesome idea I'll need to put it in my bag of tricks for later.
If I’m clear, I’ll be doing the same stuff when I build my lowers. I’m looking forward to it!
Dude.. I’m an old retired GI. My final retirement gift for myself was to fab a hot rod out of a POS (junk) 48 Ford F1… anyhow, I’m building front suspension now, and have soooo far to go before it moves under its own steam. I appreciate your enthusiasm and ability to share. OCD is truly a curse…. 😂
Nice! Can’t wait to see it! There’s nothing more rewarding than building your own toy.
OCD is certainly a curse, but a blessing as well. The opposite, I believe, would be a hack with no patience or pride. 🤔
I don't have any projects on the go, but now I have an overwhelming urge to go and build some wishbones for a racing car! Nice vid, as usual.
Nice. Mission accomplished. Thank you my friend.
Dude, you are a freaking genius and and inspiration. I am currently doing major restoration work on my '96 t100 and I have found your videos an exellent help with what would have been absolutely daunting work. You are a fountain of positive energy! Continue making exellent quality content and thriving!
Thank you, Chet! Your kind words are incredibly motivating. So very much appreciated.
Ironically I’m also a Toyota specialist. If you’ve got questions you know where to find me! 👊
Listen you’re one of my favorite channels to watch and I really find all your stuff super interesting but…please for the love of god make more content! Waiting 2 weeks for the 2nd part of this video is making me crazy lol
3 weeks actually! Thank you my friend. I’m thrilled these videos are able to produce so much anticipation. Unfortunately for TH-cam, I have a full-time job and minimal spare time. Fabrication is a slow process and video editing is even slower. I hope that TH-cam alone will one day support me and my family. Then I can focus on making videos all day every day and actually have a weekend to relax.
Then I could maintain a weekly or even two videos a week schedule. Until then, video creation gets the scraps of spare time and energy I’ve got left after life-ing.
Aiming for every two weeks, but ultimately the complexity of the project will decide.
This could also come in handy for prototyping. I have two cars which are going to need custom arms, upper and lower. One is more than 60 years old, so the suspension geometry is basically from a covered wagon. The other has McPherson struts up front and will need grownup suspension at some point. With this jig I could switch it out to do the uppers and lowers for each car. I could also whip up a few variations to see what different arm lengths did for scrub, bump steer, etc. About the only change I would make would be to add gradations on the tubing so I could tell at a glance what the length and width of the arm was.
I’d love to see all that. I’d also like to see a unit complete masterfully assembled with graduations laser etched. I currently just use a sharpie if a change needs to be made. Not very glamorous!
@@GarageFab Who says sharpie isn't glamorous?
@@GarageFab You could just superglue a cheap steel rule to the side of the tube.
That would be nice, but there is very little clearance with this size tubing. Maybe a slightly thinner wall outer tube would work.
Man how beautiful this device is, since I'm thinking of making double-A trays on my trike your idea will help me a lot. Well I'm suspicious of compliments because I'm your fan and I follow your projects a lot. Congratulations, and thank you very much for sharing your device.
Thank you Mario! I hope it helps you as much as it’s helped me. Best of luck my friend.
I love seeing your sub number grow brother!! Keep it up!!
So do I!! Too much work to not have a tangible symbol of growth. That silly counter helps keep me motivated.
Thank you my friend for always being there. 🙏
Nice fixture! Clear directions and reasons for why you do things. Even though it was a short video it was a great one! Well, except for that hideously oversized bolt!😉🤣
Stop it! I’m gonna have to fix that. Thank you, Brad. 🙏
Are all control arms just a flat triangle between the bushings and balljoint? I thought there would be some angles involved on how the ball joint was mounted that needs to be worried about?
That will definitely be addressed in the next video. No! They are NOT all flat. The amount a ball joint moves for given amount of suspension travel needs to be considered. Otherwise you might find your bell joint binding.
Garage fab, I enjoyed the short video. It was clear and to the point. Also, I try to comment on every on of your video to help you channel get the attendtion it deserves.
Much appreciated, Alex! I’ll try to return the favor by responding to each of them. Cheers!
I like this because with this, a tape measure, and an online link calculator, you can easily make custom links with whatever geometry your heart desires.
Also. 4:56. My guy, let me tell you about a nifty tool called a "reamer" 😂
You mean an arm breaker!? I actually think I have one of those somewhere. I gotta see if the angle is correct.
That would be a good use. The challenge would be the location of the ball joint between the bushings. But if you start with a factory control arm that would be cake.
I intend to use this jig on the next project to turn Chevy Impala control arms into much longer ones for a wider stance.
@@GarageFab thats what i was thinking: this jig is perfect for DIY long arms. As long as you use an online calculator properly, its perfect.
Just the idea I needed to build some narrowed SN95 adjustable control arms, thank you!
Yes! Best of luck. I’d love to see them when you’re done. I’ve got the same control arms, I believe, on my new edge.
@@GarageFab Absolutely! They're for my 1963 Ford Falcon build, AJE front suspension. Their arms stick out too far for 275s...
Thank You. I just cleaned out the weld bead on a round tube and used all put a whole saw. Now I know
I’ve never done it on round tube! I’d imagine if you can keep it still it should work great!
Thank you, Brian!
Just when I thought you couldn't get any more awesome you never let me down The best video I'll watch all day on TH-cam thank you for the content
Thank you, Dave! I was worried I wasn’t going to get to hear from you on this one. 😮💨
@@GarageFab no way I've just been busy and haven't been on TH-cam starting to get back on some projects after taking a break the last few years
Excellent. Stay away from TH-cam. Rots yer brain and stuff.
@@GarageFab I only follow the best lmao
*Blush*
you are exactly what I search for in a how to youtube channel
I am flattered. Much appreciated my friend.
That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep 'em coming.
Thank you, Ron! I’ll keep going as long as I can. 🙏
I will be adding this to my tool chest. Thank you.
Forgot about this guy lol actually clear no waffling
That jig is genius. Jig-a-what!!
Haha! Thank you, Jason. 🙏
That jig not only locates in the X and Y…
Buy the Z as well !
Great idea !!
Exactly! I just need to come up with a way to position the ball joint cup angle and everything will be positioned perfectly.
Thank you my friend!
This is a great idea, I guess that answers the question on how I am making the tubular crontrol arms now, lol!
Yes! I’d love to see what you create. 👊
If you also weld the mounting tabs to opposite side of the sliding sleeves you can flip the whole jig over and make the mirror image for the other side of the car in one setup.
Oooo!! I like it. 👏
Great concept! I feel the center tube being able to move is adding an unnecessary variable that could be bumped out of place. The bushing locators already have the freedom to off center the ball joint. An adjustment for the ball joint angle would be a nice addition, so that the ball joint could be put in straight, or at whatever angle needed keeping the joint itself straight. That may be going back to my first note thought of being another variable that could be bummed out of place.
He was making this jig to be universal brother.
@@path4514 I fully understand what his intentions are. If you would be so kind to reread my comment, you'll see I was only offering ideas to improve his jig. The center arm moving on the same axis as the bushing mounts, is an unneeded motion. The bushing mounts are already able to move giving the ability to offset the ball joint. Welds, even as small as a tack weld want to pull. The less places that are able to move in a jig, the more likely the final product can be repeated.
I guess your meaning to much adjustability.
@@path4514 say 1 movable part can shift 1/32". That's not much and can easily be worked with. Each movable part you add though, that small amount grows. With 3 that's the potential for 3/32". That's starting to dance on almost 1/8".
The 3rd doesnt need to be there seeing as the other 2 can do what it's doing. I would however bolt it instead of welding it, so that it can still be broke down for smaller storage. All in all it's a great idea. I just learned the more room you leave for possible error, the more likely it is to bite you.
It's a great idea that makes replication much easier was wanting to build my own uppers and adjust the angle to help with binding issues. You could make the ballpoint mount plate for specific arms to bolt the plate too, and simply slide on which ever jig you needed. But if your building customs arms, you could use any join you like the look of or have access to easiest work as well.
Really nice job and the ghost filming, in the beginning, was trick
Haha! It’s the little things. Thank you!
Makes me wonder if mirrored pieces on the slide pieces would allow a mirrored part for the other side…
🤔 You could technically measure the distance of the vertical bar from one of the bushings and move it that distance to the other bushing and the rotate the ball joint socket and voila. Mirrored.
Very cool, If you ever need an idea for a video we would love to learn how to make A-Arms for a custom (not factory from scratch) project. You are a great instructor!!
Have you got a custom that needs arms?! This jig would still help quite a bit. You would just need to set it up using measurements rather than an old control arm but it could be done!
@@GarageFab I want to build some for an off road go kart… but the geometry and understanding have me second guessing….
Don’t know how soon you plan to start but I’ll be jumping into some Suspension Basics videos soon. Hopefully those can help you out.
@@GarageFab thanks man! I will wait. I have a shop to finish up first
That's brilliant. I was going to make tube control arms for my Dakota. Still might, I have a set of stock control arms for that reason.
Yes! Do it now!!
Definitely my favorite fab channel, thanks for putting out some awesome knowledge content
Very engaging from start to finish. Great job, i enjoy all your videos❤
Thank you my friend! I appreciate your time. 🙏
Brilliant idea off to my workshop to see what bits I have to make one 👏👌
Excellent! Lemme know how it goes!
I want to make the control arms out of tube also make them adjustable with rose joints not sure if you call them rose joints over there 👍🏻👊🏻
Never heard of it! I did a quick search and found what we call Heim joints or Spherical bearings. Sounds like a fun project!
Great video brother.
Thank you, Pat!
Nicely done and looking forward to the next one
Looking forward to working on the next one! 🙌 Thank you my friend.
Aaron
Fantastic jig.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Michael!
With the right measurements, you could make a new arm with added caster, etc. by making the proper adjustments. Very cool.
Absolutely. The mathematical part would be a challenge! (Meaning how much movement is needed to create a given degree increase in camber or caster?) 🤯 But after you figure that out it would be cake!
That’s a badass simple little tool!!! To prevent movement from welding, do any of the mounting tabs need to be gusseted? I plan on making one of these, great idea.
I haven’t had any problems yet not having gussets. In fact the absence of gussets comes in handy often because you can turn the tabs around if you need tabs close together or close to the center tube.
Thank you! Just starting to learn. Love fab of simple tools. Know any good suspension design and fab books?
Only one! Max Fish Air Suspension Design.
Just what I needed!!!!!!! fantastic content...
Thank you, Ashoud. 🙏
Twice the number of subs a few months ago. You’re on your way.
Thank you for noticing! It’s been quite the ride. Not rich yet though. 😩 Maybe next week.
Don’t mind the short video especially for such a great project! I have 1 question: where are you going to find 4 larger bolts to match that center one! 😳
Hahaha! I’m sure I can find some at the Semi Truck junk yard.
Thank you, Robert!
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽glad to see you show up in my feed again. It’s been a minute
Great video! Simple and effective solution!
Thank you my friend!
This is awesome bro. I’ve been subscribed to your channel for a long time but never seen this vid. Just so happens I’m planning on making some controller arms soon. This will be perfect.
Nice. Lemme know how it goes!
@@GarageFab if I do it I’ll make a video and post a link to yours. Thanks for a the innovative and inspirational videos.
Too short!!!! Need more Garage Fab lol. Keep up the great work bro!
Next one will be an hour long. JK
@@GarageFab ok maybe not that long 😆😆😆
this is great tool for buggy A arms, thanks.
My pleasure! Lemme know how it goes.
I love that idea so much, I think I need to make some control arms just so I can do that!😃
Haha! I can’t argue with that.
Dude that's a nice jig. I recently built one to lengthen a swingarm on a 78 Honda cx500. Freaking drive shaft bikes suck. Thanks for the vids brother they are definitely worth the watch.
Very slick fixture.
Just brilliant! Looking for the build vid! This os inspiration for the next biild i don't have yet!
Willie! Sorry for the delay. I’m drowning over here. Get that new build yet? Do you know what it’ll be at least?
@@GarageFab Not yet! Still on Mustang II chassis mods and engine. Z28 is still on the trailer! It's like eating an elephant, take one bite at a time! I always enjoy your work!
First time I've seen the holesaw trick. 👍🏼
"It doesn't match, and it makes my OCD ache. 😂 I say something similar almost every day, "It makes my OCD flare up" 😅
Haha!! So good. Thank you my friend.
This is amazing! I'm gonna see if my buddy (a pro welder) and I can do this so I can make some tubular control arms for my Dakota.
I'm not sure if I saw an option to modify the control arm to push in or out the ball joint mount location to modify camber for lowered trucks.
Maybe I didn't pay attention enough?
ADHD.....
All you would have to do then is know how much longer the (upper for instance) stock control arm would need to be to push out the wheel at desired ride height.....
Does my thinking make sense?
You would just move the ball joint mount bracket further out to make the wheel straighten up and down based on ride height?
I hope I didn't ramble too much to make this confusing.... 😜😜
Not confusing at all! The fixture that holds the tapered stud on the ball joint is on a sliding sleeve, so all you would need to do is determine how much you need to push the ball joint out, make a mark and slide the fixture to its new location.
Determining how much movement equals your desired change in camber would be the challenge. Because math. 🤮
@@GarageFab that's sound easy AF except you said math! Lol I was really good at that at one time der
3:09 Reflecting on the pattern of my life I apparently LOVE working really hard at things without making much progress
Haha! That’s most of us.
any ideas on adaptable bolt hole sizes?
Hmmmm. 🤔 Not yet. I just have other sliding tabs with various hole sizes.
I suppose it’s doable to change the holes in a single set of tabs.
Thorbros.com sells mock-up bushings with inserts (basically washers) to change the through bolt size. I imagine you could do something similar to that!
@@GarageFab
Thanks for the response, made 90% of my jig today following your video (still need to drill/weld). Will look into these, thanks
Is there a walk around video of the black pick up truck?
Sorry Florencio, not yet! The image you’re seeing is fake! It’s a digital rendering of my next project that begins as soon as I finish my Wife’s truck.
It hasn’t been officially been announced yet but it will have two V8 engines, all-wheel-drive, and 4 wheel steering. I’m excited about it!
Maybe I don't understand how this works, but all 3 points are in a fixed plane and angle. Wouldn't you need to be able to raise/lower the ball joint end and set it at the appropriate angle?
Yes, you absolutely need to set the ball joint housing angle. The height of the ball or the angle of the arm however, doesn’t matter as far as geometry goes.
When fitting the original control arm into the fixture, you must take note of the angle of the ball joint housing and make sure the new arm is the same. (Unless you need more ball joint movement. In that event you’d probably want to choose a new angle.)
@@GarageFabSome control arms are curved for suspension travel, or to orient the spring pocket toward the frame etc., but I suppose you could still account for that by bending the tubing and mocking up as needed. Also, shouldn't you capture the location of the lower shock mount too?
Truth. That’s some advanced stuff there. The jig only holds the bushings and ball joints in the proper orientation and the proper distance from one another. Clearance of other components will be up to the builder.
As for the shocks, most of the trucks I’ve built have a shock absorber that’s mounted through the center of the spring. That’s not an option with the typical air spring. So the shock needs to be relocated elsewhere. There will be a video on that in the near future.
Keep it up Bro.
Love your Happiness and Enthusiasm.
Take Care.
Thank you my friend. 🙏
nice jig for control arm ...
Thank you, Leonardo!
appears that opening shot of driver side left upper control arm has already been fabbed using man Kandy magic
😳 Can’t get anything by you. 😂
Can you make longer control arms with this based off the stock ones?
Absolutely. With this jig in particular, you would just set it up with a factory control arm, and then slide the ball joint holder out the amount you want to extend the control arm.
Good information. Where were you 45 years ago when we raced dirt track cars? Wait a minute, you probably weren't born yet!! LOL!!
Haha! Nope! The mistake that was me hadn’t happened yet.
Mtooooo legal. Obrigado! Genial seu trabalho.
Obrigado meu amigo! 🙏
Man that’s super cool.
Thank you, Russ!
Insane knowledge!
Nah! Just a little knowledge and the ability to make it look like like a lot. 😆
Obrigado.
Já fiz o meu Jig.
Legal! Espero que te ajude tanto quanto o meu me ajudou! Boa sorte meu amigo.
Nice tool !
Thank you, Tom!
Another top drawer video.
Gettin' jiggy with it!
great video 👏
Thank you, Ross! 🙏
Can't buy it just build it. 😂 Great information.
Exactly! And if you can buy it, consider building it anyway. It’s more fun!
I have a shop full of home made tools and custom car with one off parts . That's why I love your channel.
Nice job 😎
Thank you, Sean! 🙏
How much do you charge for custom control arms, looking to get e36 318ti tubular arms made
Sorry, my friend! I haven’t got enough time or space currently to take in outside projects. 😬
Hole saw trick!!! Internal weld beads be dammed
Dude, epic!! Many thanks!
Hope it helps you as much as it’s helped me!
Doesn't even make a Will Smith joke (getting jiggy with it) Classy!!
I’m not embarrassed to say… That never crossed my mind. 😆
Аарон здравствуй, отличное приспособление, особенно для мелкосерийного гаражного производства каких нибудь гоночных автомобилей.
Это цель! Сделать крошечные гаражи везде местом, где происходит волшебство. 🙌 Thank you!
@@GarageFab . В наше сумасшедшее время действительно гараж это волшебное место .
Indeed it is!
@@GarageFab , а мастера становятся волшебниками а иногда даже и колдунами 👌
🧙♂️
Very cool!
Thank you, Marcus!
Dude you rock!!!!!!
You rock back! Thank you, James.
Can this jig be used to extend a arms? I need my a arms extended 2" but dont want to sprend $1k +
Any chance you could make a lower control arm for a 96 K1500 stamped steel lower? Us 88-98 k1500 guys have been DC’d on new lower control arms
Can you make an upper control arm for a 2001 Dodge ram 1500,2wd with a 5 inch lift??
Wait you lost me with the ball joint??? This guy is freakin nuts !!!
Seriously though, excellent tutorial..
something about your voice just makes me want to………………….
I’m concerned about how that sentence was going to end. 😳 There’s some missing info about the ball joint that I’ll be addressing in the next video, so hopefully that’ll it all better. Where did you get lost?
Thank you, Jason!
@@GarageFab you do an excellent job of explaining your content.
I’m always looking for new fab stuff to watch here.
About the ball joint, the last set of arms I built had uniballs on them.
Good idea.
Thank you my friend!
How much to send me one?
Haha! Sorry my friend. I haven’t any free time to build another. I know of a video that could help you build one though! 😆
@@GarageFab lol 😆 😂 🤣 😅
That's weird. i was thinking about the same idea this morning 😅
Great minds!
Slip Sliding Away in a Totally Tubular way
lol
I dont even need to make a jig and im here😅
Oh, but now you WANT to make that thing you don’t need. 🤔 Eh?
You look like Bert Kreischer's brother
That’s a new one. Pretty attractive guy though so thank you!
@@GarageFab Definitely was a compliment, Bert can get it whenever he wants lol
That makes one of us! 😂
Genial 🎉
Thank you, Ricardo!
Clever
Much appreciated!
Every time he says jig, replace it with fixture.
When he says sliding, add the word jig after it
Who’s he?
Tease
Maybe. 😈
MK; Your Jig has moves! wh
Haha! Yes it does!