Has cable armor saved any cable? We no use it here. Ever. Is there any effect? Is cable usable for 5+years if outer shell (black one that is above metal armor) is damaged?
I object to you mounting a EV charger their on the grounds that you won't mount an EV charger at my place because its "too far away" [said in a loud whiney teenage girls voice] "Which is Sooooooo Unfair!!!!!" [stamps foot] [Humph] "its cause were in Oxford & Cambridge doesn't like Oxford!!!!!" 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
Don't think there's anything wrong with fixing to the fence but using untreated plywood is a bit daft in the long term, it'll swell after just a few rains
1)The material you used looks like ply. If it is, you need to seal the edges fairly quickly, it does not take long for water to soak between the layers. 2)You have now made an area for water to be trapped between the board and the fence, leading to ideal conditions for wood rot. 3)Fences, installed properly, are not going anywhere until it starts to rot, but they are pretty much sails in the wind so worth keeping in mind. I can't see this being an issue now but could be in the future.
You will be called back to this job sometime in the future if you leave that charger attached to the fence with a plywood backing. As said elsewhere the plywood will rot, the zinc plated screws going through it will rust and the charger will become loose on it's mounting. The screw sealing washers provided with the Zappi used here require pressure to seal - with the plywood backing turning to mush, the screws will be loose and the seal compromised. The risk of water ingress is quite high with movement of the charger when the cable is wound/unwound etc.
Old telecom installer here. We used to have 568A on phone outlets and 568B on data connections. But actually no difference as long as both ends are same. And if one is A and the other end is B then you made a crossover cable
And if you don't put it through a cable tester, you may not even be able to tell - because many switches and devices can do Auto-MDIX now, which means they can use either a straight or a cross-over cable. Still best to do it properly though, lest you confuse the next person who has to work on it!
The twisted pair termination tool you called “punch down” I know as a Krone tool as that was the main maker of tools and large termination blocks used in telecoms. The termination type is an IDC. Insulation Displacement Connection. Twisting pairs helps reduce interference to adjacent conductors and retain signal isolation.
@@JasperJanssen I think the offical name for Krone is Krone LSA-PLUS but it just gets shortened. The other type of punch down tool you can get is a 110. These use a different type of blade. You won't be able to use a Krone tool in a 110 patch panel/keystone. I found this out the hard way when I was an apprentice on one of my first jobs, never heard of a 110 before. Must have spent an hour trying to terminate 4 cat5 cables onto a panel haha
The plywood the Zappi is mounted to is likely to swell / delaminate / rott very quickly installed without wood treatment or any further protection. Also grab yourself a percussion drill when drilling from inside to outside, it will make for a cleaner exit hole on the outside. Tip when using electrical tape, add a flag on the end of the tape when wrapping around cables to make it easy to remove.
Love the video but was shocked when I heard you are installing Solaredge. I'm an electrician in the states and install all types of solar systems with energy storage. When I'm not installing I do service and my #1 call is to replace a Solaredge inverter. All sizes in both single and three phase fail remarkably quick. Some with very dangerous thermal damage that could have caused major issues. In the states most companies are not using Solaredge anymore. I worry they will go under from all the warranty claims they are filling.
Mounting to a combustible material when they don't even want you charging within 10m of a combustible material I feel is a good enough reason to not fit an EV charger to a wooden fence lol also that ply is going to swell up and fall to bits within a few months especially with this weather.
Im a big fan of the channel and Justin but I do feel this install falls below the expectations set in previous installs. I feel you should go back and install a proper ev charge stand free of charge and maintain the high standards and workmanship 😊
Sorry but that's BS. It might be a new fence but nobody with a brain would argue that a fence isn't more susceptible to heavy winds than a masonry wall. Masonry walls don't rot either. Also - plywood will fall apart in no time - at the very least you should have used a solid piece of treated timber. I love your videos usually, but there was nothing "artisan" about that element of the install.
The problem I would have is that the fence lifespan is likely to be around 20 years or so before the wood dries out and deforms. At this point the charger will no longer be securely mounted and may present a safety issue. The style of fence suggests that it might be bordering another property and that the fence would be owned by that property in which case mounting anything to it is a form of trespass unless the owner has given permission.
I've seen pressure treated posts fail after only five or six years were the ground conditions are damp and likely the post used were fast grown softwood. Modern pressure treatment is unlikely to go more than 10 years, the other problem is whilst the fence seems to be built ok who knows how well the posts are set or how much postcrete or concrete was used.
When it comes down to data termination, it's generally a matter of preference. "A" is big on government contracts, "B" is big on commercial and residential. I have terminated countless cables on server racks, security systems, and so on. I was originally trained on "B" and still use it exclusively. As an OG to both phone and data termination, I never use pass-through RJ45s. I'm not opposed, but it's all about skill and proficiency, which there is little of these days.
Worth noting that B was defined to allow for legacy connections to 6p4c (rj11 or USOC) connections. Put another way, for backward compatibility with POTS. Well all is said and done, as long as both ends are wired the same as @thesteelrodent1796 mentions it will work.
I would have used a double data outlet on the single back box. For the cost of 2x CAT5e/6 modules and a single back box against and 2x ethernet outlet face plates and 2 single back boxes. Also less round taken up.
Had same thought however it might be a good idea to keep both separate for lightning protection. But then - it would fry the switch anyway so... Unless external cable had a surge protection
@@7z9 lightning protection would be pointless on a run that short. The benefit of individual boxes is the lack of disturbing the other connection during maintenance, and ease of knowing which is which for the customer.
Unprotected wood is prone to rot, especially in wet and rainy weather conditions, I will not recommend that. Better to build a metal or concrete kinda stand if it can't be mounted on house wall.. I'm a carpenter btw, so I know something about wood and weather impact :)
Agreed DMG. You can buy “marine MDF” but you still need to use MDF edge sealer. A sort of filler. Then paint it all. MDF doesn’t take paint on cut edges very well. Pity the EV charger Co. Don’t make an optional mounting plate. I guess when on site it’s whatever is to hand, but swollen wood looks bad and performs worse than that. Great company, I wish you were closer. I would use you for my PV Solar & battery install.
The "string" should not be pulled, it's there to stop the cable being stretched, pulling on it could deform the conductors and effect their electrical properties.
Suggestion for EV charger manufacturers: supply timber mounting boards for your chargers as an accessory (finished appropriately for durability). Does anyone do this?
I've always thought you are brave to show what you do for the world to see and the reputation of your business. There are always people that seem to always know best and I'd probably call some offering some good advice and there are others just smart arses!!. Having worked in this type of industry for over 40 years, you do learn as you go along and how you want to install something is not someone else’s choice but if it's safe, looks good and works all the better. Well done with all your videos.
What was the thinking behind the PVC trunking? Surely galvanised would have been much more reliable for glanding to and for Earthing the SWA armour. Also without sandwiching the banjo between two locknuts the plastic creeping is liable to cause an unreliable cpc connection to the armour. Also agree the ply mounting plate getting wet is likely to degrade it.
I'd agree with using galv trunking as it's almost the same price as PVC these days, more fun to work with, won't show up the dirt so much, complies with fire support, and as you said easier and more reliable for earthing of the SWA armour
@@austinfarley4971 😅 yes, good punchdown and rj45 crimp tools are definitely satisfying to work with 😇 My argument for the keystones (at least the ones, that are “tool-less“) is, that you only need a flush-cutting side-cutter and you are ready to rumble. From my experience, there was never a missing contact, in contrast to the punchdown system (but this may be not a problem for a skilled worker 😁 )
Please don't use RJ-45 jacks on the end of each cable. Use a Keystone jack on the end and then a patch cable. RJ-45 is a pretty fragile connector and the retention clip can break easily. Using a Keystone makes it easy to replace if the cable has a problem.
Yes good point although it's in a box that should not necessarily be opened for any reason. And if they were to do anything they would have to cut the end off anyway to pull the cable through.
You must buy crap RJ45s if your retention clips break easily, the pass through crimps are crap aswell, literally got called out to fix a sparky who done them the other day and they were shorting out. Old fashioned ones are best
@@calummcmillan3691 nothing at all wrong with the pass throughs as long as they’re terminated with the correct tool. I’ve used hundreds and never had an issue.
The twists reduces interference on TP cables, or noise caused by other circuts or between pairs, not affecting speed. Referring to 18:50. Maybe that's what you meant :)
Gigabit and 10G speeds are actually affected by the number of twists on each pair. If they're not correct, the Tx/Rx will reduce the speed. You are correct though as they do counter interference but yeah, can also affect speed if not done correctly!
Well, too much noise will fail 100Mbps negotiation and bring it down to 10, so it *kind of* does (although this would take a lot of noise lol). More applies to 1+ Gbps capable link speeds
the string in cat5E is used to split the sheathing farther from the initial strip point, also maybe some pressure treated ply behind the EV charger would be better seeing as its exterior. that or a piece of tile back board for the water resistance.
2 Things. I agree with the other comments about untreated ply. Looking at the fence, it will be post and rail under the feather edge. If you had mounted either the top or bottom in line with the arris rail, and put a small beam to take the screws behind the charge point, you would've been fine without a board. The other is the string in data cables. It's not there as a strengthener or stiffener, it's a draw string, to cut back insulation to ensure you get undamaged cable.
SysNet administrator here from the US. Yes we use the T568B standard too. T568A technically should only be used if you're having to go backward compatible with older equipment like phone lines and what not. But I haven't seen an issue with using the B standard. Also, I've never gotten a straight answer but I'm told the B standard is also better to use for networking as it provides less crosstalk interference making it better for 1/10gbit connections. I appreciate the passthrough connector. I've seen electricians, engineers, and many others either just make the colors match, use A on one end and B on the other, or my personal favorite is only punching down 2 or 4 of the 8 wires since they assume it will just be for analog phone lines. Yes I've redone the terminations at a few apartments me and some friends have moved into because of this. Gotta make sure it's done right since we have gigabit fiber internet in our area (They just started rolling out 10gigabit) for really cheap.
Well... the general rule with fences is that the "nice" side faces away from your property, which would make this the neighbour's fence. Bad form to attach things to someone else's fence (presumably in this case the homeowners squared it with their neighbours first though)
I would never attach anything to a fence, especially with the ongoing stormy weather we've been getting the past few years, that's a danger waiting to happen.
I can't think of a genuinely good reason why mounting an EV on a fence panel is a good idea. Even EV manufacturers such as Anderson state this. If it had to be that location, I would have insisted in installing a mounting post into the ground. I would have at least used on the one main fence posts rather than the panel. I assume there are no ownership issues and risk of someone drilling from the other side, difficult to tell from the video.
Fences are usually a bad idea because at least in the US there can be a fight about whose property they are on and where the property line is or isn't and who owns them and they rot.
Cladding rots, brick crumbles, concrete cracks. At the end of the day, if the fence is structurally sound and maintained, I can't see a big issue. Any EV charger installation should be regularly inspected and remedial action taken if the mounting is suspect.
Great job and good video.But I would be concerned about using plywood behind the charger as it will deteriorate very quickly, could of put a alloy plate behind bolted to the fence which could have had a connection to earth ?.
I looked at that TP-Link TL-SG105 network switch used here and there are ventilation holes on the edge that was butted up to the consumer unit in this video. I would have left around 1 cm of space between the 2 to allow heat to dissipate. It is true that this device only consumes a couple watts, but cheap switches can fail easily enough - no need to help it along by making it hotter than it has to be. Speaking of heat - I wonder what heat losses the future inverter and batteries will have under load. That is a rather confined space that could get warm quickly. Could always change out the door to a ventilated one if it is an issue.
Why use a switch all, straight from the Internet hub to the zappi would be fine. Also on a previous video a switch was used to provide POE for a wireless access point. A POE injector could have been used.
You should get some shorter patch cords. The one you used looks rather ordinary. Agree with other comments that the exposed plywood edge on the Zappi mount is going to fail. It should have been sealed.
Former networking guy here watching you mix power and data - yuk! And please go back with some shorter patch cables! You work so hard to make board internals neat and then do that. You can get blue ones for Artisan colours if you like. Really don't like the cheap network switch. Would've preferred more data cables back to the router. Happy to get involved if you need some data guidance! Just got my L2 so really appreciate the swa work!
@@rayroulstone3565 Not really a problem unless you are trying to run a high performance network, for what the zappi and inverter will be doing it is fine as long as the cable jacket is rated for the correct voltages. Just see how the EV ultra cable has a cat5 cable running inside the same sheath as an swa.
@@martinw245 I know that. looks to me like he coiled up CATx cable in the trunking, parallel to high power circuits. Agreed might not be an issue at the data rates it will see but is not best practice and I thought they were high quality electrictions.
Presumably you didn’t use stainless screws to mount the plywood, so you’ll have rotten plywood and rusty screws…? Good to see safe isolation procedure but you also need to test L-E and N-E, and LOCK OFF
I'm worried about sinking and leaning caused by the ground. Walls have concrete or stone foundations, while wood fencing is just hammered into the soil, with nothing to buttress it or any other type of supports. That and agreeing with everyone about worrying about rot.
I do love the way that everyone in the comments is an "expert" yet not one single person criticizing you has a TH-cam channel of their own showing their handiwork that I can find! Keep up the good work Jordan and crew, I'm within reach of you but unfortunately can't afford for you to come out and replace my rubbish BP Pulse charger with a Hypervolt one yet! So make sure you stay in business for at least another year and Ill save up lol
T568A is a cross connection datacable, T568B is a straight connection datacable. I'm not sure how many of the B variant I've crimped in my datacentre years, but a couple thousand easy!
Hah, the backfire when you thought that "keyboard warriors" would complain about mounting in the fence, but it ended up proper people complaining legitimate reason about using untreated plywood which will cause problems in near future.
Some 8P8C (RJ45) Termination Tips: Use the grey sleeve to untwist the cores. Once punched into keystone, double punch them for good luck. Use a good ethernet signal tester if gig or 10gig is needed. Or if 100mb installation, at least one that cycles each core to ensure you have the order correct.
Still remember a "customer" in Cheltenham insisted I fit RJ45 plugs as he didn't want 8P8C (as in the quote) because they weren't as good, redid the quote with RJ45 plugs as requested (and charged extra)! Did the job tested all the cables and produced test report, handed over to customer and left site. A week later I got a phone call asking why there were bits on the side of the RJ45 plugs and they were no good as they would not fit into the access points he was having installed. I took great joy in explaining to him he got exactly what he asked for and what he wanted was in the original quote.
You know, I never thought of using the sleeve to do that. Always ended up with sore fingers after getting five or six cables down the patch panel. I'm going to try this out, thanks. You just taught a grizzled 30-something network engineer something! I've never needed to double-punch, but I do a visual inspection with a strong light and a magnifier to make sure the wires are all the way down in the IDC terminal. If you don't have an Ethernet signal tester, I've found a pair of switches with a cable-test feature work quite well.
Quick pick-up on 13:37 here: I believe you have your ethernet colour coding out-of-standard. Based on the Cisco Certified Network Admin course, the correct order from L-R - When viewing the connector with the pins facing toward you - Is: *568-A* (For standard connections): White-Orange, Orange, White-Green, Blue, White-Blue, Green, White-Brown, Brown. *568-B* (For _Roll-over_ connections): White-Green, Green, White-Orange, Blue, White-Blue, Orange, White-Brown, Brown. In this it looks a lot like you got the orange and brown wire pairs mixed up, though the cable should work just fine (And will still pass testing) so long as the wiring order is the same at both ends of the cable. ✅ The best fix for this is to simply attach small notes to each end of the cable advising of non-conformant wire pair use. If the cable needs to be modified later (e.g: To install a PoE injector) this will save that technician (And your customer) a lot of time and money in looking at the installation and finding that out for themselves¹. You could do this whilst attending to that rather not-very-rain-safe looking bit of ply you mounted the charger on. 🙃 (¹ - Imagine you came across an installation with a DIY-fitted cable run where the cable itself and terminations were safe in the sense of no risks for electrocution, but L and N were wired to the opposite colour conductors. Ethernet's not so safety critical, but in terms of understanding the installation the same concerns apply. 🔀) Ethernet cabling carries differential signals normally induced through a low voltage 1:1 isolation transformer, so each pair of wires is effectively wired to coils at both ends and forms a closed circuit when connected...So provided each pair maintains a connection in parallel between its respective transformers incorrect colours will still work *if the same departure from standard is made at both ends* and will pass a test on a device like the one you used. Obviously you don't want the output from transformer A1 to wind up at B3 (And the customers device to receive no IP/Internet!) so noting an accidental departure from standard - That doesn't impact safety, and will function as-is - In the installation documentation and on the cable itself is a very good idea.😇
I came straight to the comments and they didn't disappoint. Fair play to you for making content in this day and age. It wouldn't matter what material you used it still would have been wrong in someones eyes.
Of course it would matter. An appropriate material would have gained praise, plywood delaminates incredibly quickly, you’ll see it visibly deteriorating over a few weeks/months and will result in a call back.
Hiya. Your Anderson manuals for installation says not to fit to a fence if that helps. 😉 Where can charging points be installed and how long does installation take? Charging points must be installed at least 500mm above the ground on a vertical and sturdy substrate, such as a brick wall. They cannot be mounted onto a wooden fence for example. Some of our customers have made ‘plinths’ such as vertical railway posts (these are suitable at the discretion of installers). Andersen installation takes a minimum of three hours. Unlike other providers, we don’t squeeze two jobs into a day. When our engineer arrives on site, they are there exclusively for you
I reinforced a fence style door with 3/4in external grade ply. Well over 10 years later it is still fine. Not sealed at the edges and not soaking up water. My current garage doors are likewise reinforced with quality 3/4in external ply and after almost 5 years no issues. There is quality ply and ordinary ply. Get the good stuff and you will be fine.
You know, with Cory gone you think is it still going to be a good watch (as he was quite entertaining) and yes, great bunch of guys and great content. 👍 Nice to see you on the tools Jordan.
the little string inside the data cable is to strip the cable. pull it and it cuts through the outer jacket also iv had a lot of issues with rj45 passthroughs so i tend to stay away from them.
I'm from north america where installs on fences are common and i can vouch that it'll be just fine as long as some of the mounting screws go through the fence boards and into the fence posts
Only thing I'd argue is definitely not an ideal material to fit to. Electrical fault can equal 🔥. Plus timber 🔥 🔥 depending on time frame car may also 🔥 and ⌚ 💣
we don't have SWA here, we use something called MCMK that has the phase and neutral conductors in the middle and the earth wires spins around the conductors
Only problem i can see with the fence is they get taken out by strong wind some times and if a strong wind dose take out the fence depending on witch way it goes its gunna smash that charge point off the floor and if it gets damaged water could get in 🤷♂️ also that ply will de laminate and fall to bits in a few weeks
13:45 Not a bad tool. I'm not an electrician just an IT engineer. It used to take me about 40mins to crimp those until I had to do some desk moves so spent time to practice. Got it down to 5mins. Never had passthrough ends though. To get the correct length without that, just put the cable against your thumbnail. That's the length you want to cut it.
Personally no problem with fence. However i would mention it on the installation agreement/ warranty. That they should have a ECIR including the stste of fence etc. At a determined length of time. Cover your backs. Thats all i would say.
A fence is temporary structure, side of brick building is not, the wood you use is not treated for outside use, give five year it be on floor. SWA stripping tool is waste of money, I bought one too.
Use self amalgamating tape instead of gland shrouds outside as water can run into shroud and should o ring in gland fail you get water into your cable.
Morning . I remember the swa stripping tool, was total rubbish, what a faff. Still in my box with no scratches on it. I wouldn’t really cut swa with the decent cable cutters. The blade gets damaged, just used for copper conductors . The tiny cord in CAT cable can be used to strip back the outer. I really wouldn’t want to mount EV point to the fence. The fence supporting legs will rot with a few years especial in earth. Unless you add concrete short post in to support the wood. When the wooden post rots in the ground the post in air will still support the fence. I would rather get a local company to make up a metal post with a backing plate and concrete that structure in . You can even design it yourself put your name on it and add it in the quote. It would be lost in the rate costs anyway and clients would be chuffed that you didn’t fix it to a rot-able fence. Crimping tool looks NICE. Install looks good. Just wish you used a metal structure for the Zappi. Don’t know how you find the time to do the videos but appreciate your effort .
The only thing I'd say regarding putting something heavy like an EVSE on a fence is have it where one of the big support posts are so you have the strength of the post behind it too. And the "head" of an RJ45/ethernet/whatever cable I usually call a jack. I suppose the proper term is "connector housing" though. Your wiring layout on an RJ45 really doesn't matter *so long as both ends match one another*
Are you allowed to go into the supplier side of the isolator next to the meter? Isn't it only dno and the supplier that are legally allowed to go in there?
Maintenance of the supporting structure may be on one party but only if stated in deeds and shown on the plan. Otherwise it’s a shared fence unless it’s clearly on one persons land then solely responsible.
@@TroggyPB I'm aware of the little Ts on the deeds map indicating fence ownership, but think this is a bit deep. So was suggesting a simple on the spot solution.
It was often said that when you put a fence up you must ensure the nails point inwards towards your property. This implies that the horizontals that support the verticals must be on your side. Clearly this is not the case here and the fence is more than likely to be the neighbours property. Personally, for a device handling so much power, I would want to mount it on its own substantial steel mounting posts, with careful positioning to negate the use of any wooden panel.
Not impressed with using a raw piece of plywood, that definitely will not last, also you can see that fence hasn't been fixed with galvanised fixings so that featheredge will be an issue in the future also. Just think with some forward planning a far better material could have been used for the mounting board.
The twists on your CAT5e cable only help with the RF shielding, so "the speed" only indirectly, but an inch or two here or there isn't going to make any difference.
The reason you shouldn't untwist a ethernet cable too much is that the twist is there to "prevent" signal noise and crosstalk. Another thing to look out for is too keep the pairs the same length. Then again those devices probably only use 100Mbit and you need to mess up a lot before getting into troubles on a 100Mbit connection.
To be honest same length is not an issue, the pairs are different lengths in the construction of the cable anyway (prime number twists, all different) to mitigate crosstalk.
@@aardwolf21 There is a limit in signal skew! The difference of pair length in 100m of ethernet cable is well within the tolerances. It's not because the length of pairs in an ethernet cable are not 100% identical that it doesn't matter at all and that we should ignore this when terminating/connecting cables.
Agreed, whether you could terminate a connector that badly that skew would actually have an effect is a different matter, it is only 125MHz worst case after all.
Sparks doing data and telecommunications. Hey it's low voltage we can do it. Nar you can't. I have seen so much sparky bodge work. And the tester. Basic as can be. Like checking electrics by just testing for voltage. I could easy terminate a cable that passes yet will never work. Connector is an 8P8C. RJ45 is a standard but everyone does call them RJ45's. Krone is the punch down tool. One of many types of IDC (3M, BiX, Quant being a sample of others). Krone is by far the most common for structures cabling. Why one keyjack per box? You can get 2's and 4's per box.
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Has cable armor saved any cable? We no use it here. Ever. Is there any effect?
Is cable usable for 5+years if outer shell (black one that is above metal armor) is damaged?
I object to you mounting a EV charger their on the grounds that you won't mount an EV charger at my place because its "too far away" [said in a loud whiney teenage girls voice]
"Which is Sooooooo Unfair!!!!!" [stamps foot] [Humph]
"its cause were in Oxford & Cambridge doesn't like Oxford!!!!!"
🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
A good addition to the install would be a Chargehanger.
Don't think there's anything wrong with fixing to the fence but using untreated plywood is a bit daft in the long term, it'll swell after just a few rains
Damn right. Real artisan electrician would have had bespoke made Laser cut and powder coated plate 🤣
that’s exactly what I was thinking
…unless it’s marine grade ply…
@@kimspence-jones4765 even marine grade ply isn’t really a good idea with untreated wood edges.
@@kimspence-jones4765 That is not marine grade....its standard ply, which will rot and fall to bits in a matter of months.
1)The material you used looks like ply. If it is, you need to seal the edges fairly quickly, it does not take long for water to soak between the layers.
2)You have now made an area for water to be trapped between the board and the fence, leading to ideal conditions for wood rot.
3)Fences, installed properly, are not going anywhere until it starts to rot, but they are pretty much sails in the wind so worth keeping in mind. I can't see this being an issue now but could be in the future.
BEAT ME TO IT ! -UNLESS ITS MARINE PLY?
Why don’t you use a angle grinder to cut a length of swa.
@@andytipping70 Marine ply still needs edge sealing..
It the concrete board
@@andytipping70 Marine ply is misused. People think because it has marine in the name its water proof or resistant. Its not.
You will be called back to this job sometime in the future if you leave that charger attached to the fence with a plywood backing. As said elsewhere the plywood will rot, the zinc plated screws going through it will rust and the charger will become loose on it's mounting. The screw sealing washers provided with the Zappi used here require pressure to seal - with the plywood backing turning to mush, the screws will be loose and the seal compromised. The risk of water ingress is quite high with movement of the charger when the cable is wound/unwound etc.
For values of "sometime in the future" of a year or two at most. Very shoddy.
Old telecom installer here. We used to have 568A on phone outlets and 568B on data connections. But actually no difference as long as both ends are same. And if one is A and the other end is B then you made a crossover cable
And if you don't put it through a cable tester, you may not even be able to tell - because many switches and devices can do Auto-MDIX now, which means they can use either a straight or a cross-over cable. Still best to do it properly though, lest you confuse the next person who has to work on it!
The twisted pair termination tool you called “punch down” I know as a Krone tool as that was the main maker of tools and large termination blocks used in telecoms. The termination type is an IDC. Insulation Displacement Connection. Twisting pairs helps reduce interference to adjacent conductors and retain signal isolation.
Isn’t Krone a different size from LSA?
punch down tool is the generic term.
@@JasperJanssen I think the offical name for Krone is Krone LSA-PLUS but it just gets shortened. The other type of punch down tool you can get is a 110. These use a different type of blade. You won't be able to use a Krone tool in a 110 patch panel/keystone. I found this out the hard way when I was an apprentice on one of my first jobs, never heard of a 110 before. Must have spent an hour trying to terminate 4 cat5 cables onto a panel haha
@@cjmillsnun IDC insertion tool is the generic and correct description.
The plywood the Zappi is mounted to is likely to swell / delaminate / rott very quickly installed without wood treatment or any further protection. Also grab yourself a percussion drill when drilling from inside to outside, it will make for a cleaner exit hole on the outside. Tip when using electrical tape, add a flag on the end of the tape when wrapping around cables to make it easy to remove.
Love the video but was shocked when I heard you are installing Solaredge. I'm an electrician in the states and install all types of solar systems with energy storage. When I'm not installing I do service and my #1 call is to replace a Solaredge inverter. All sizes in both single and three phase fail remarkably quick. Some with very dangerous thermal damage that could have caused major issues. In the states most companies are not using Solaredge anymore. I worry they will go under from all the warranty claims they are filling.
Don't think Artisan Carpentry will be launching anytime soon
Personally I'd install a steel post infront of the fence and mount the charger to it.
If the fence were to fail the charger would be unaffected.
A professional solution , thank you
Mounting to a combustible material when they don't even want you charging within 10m of a combustible material I feel is a good enough reason to not fit an EV charger to a wooden fence lol also that ply is going to swell up and fall to bits within a few months especially with this weather.
“Walls can be moved later on and stuff, this is a solid fence”
Yes. I've moved my house walls all the time just for fun lol.
Im a big fan of the channel and Justin but I do feel this install falls below the expectations set in previous installs.
I feel you should go back and install a proper ev charge stand free of charge and maintain the high standards and workmanship 😊
Ruben definitely knows how to make off an armoured so watching him get a lesson on it was funny
Boss defo wanted to do it himself as he was stressing out about the length on the cable
Sorry but that's BS. It might be a new fence but nobody with a brain would argue that a fence isn't more susceptible to heavy winds than a masonry wall. Masonry walls don't rot either. Also - plywood will fall apart in no time - at the very least you should have used a solid piece of treated timber. I love your videos usually, but there was nothing "artisan" about that element of the install.
Personally I don’t think mounting on the fence is a bad idea but using untreated ply is a bad idea, also doesn’t look particularly nice
Glad to see you're using an IP67 rated composite board mounting plate!
The problem I would have is that the fence lifespan is likely to be around 20 years or so before the wood dries out and deforms. At this point the charger will no longer be securely mounted and may present a safety issue. The style of fence suggests that it might be bordering another property and that the fence would be owned by that property in which case mounting anything to it is a form of trespass unless the owner has given permission.
We’ll be driving diesels by then again anyway 😂😂
Looks like it may be the neighbours fence so also could constitute criminal damage ....
I've seen pressure treated posts fail after only five or six years were the ground conditions are damp and likely the post used were fast grown softwood.
Modern pressure treatment is unlikely to go more than 10 years, the other problem is whilst the fence seems to be built ok who knows how well the posts are set or how much postcrete or concrete was used.
I’d be worried to find the charge point on the floor after a high wind 🥹
So that’s 10 years more life than the car batteries……
When it comes down to data termination, it's generally a matter of preference. "A" is big on government contracts, "B" is big on commercial and residential. I have terminated countless cables on server racks, security systems, and so on. I was originally trained on "B" and still use it exclusively. As an OG to both phone and data termination, I never use pass-through RJ45s. I'm not opposed, but it's all about skill and proficiency, which there is little of these days.
As long as they're the same in both ends, it doesn't matter which order they go in
Worth noting that B was defined to allow for legacy connections to 6p4c (rj11 or USOC) connections. Put another way, for backward compatibility with POTS. Well all is said and done, as long as both ends are wired the same as @thesteelrodent1796 mentions it will work.
I would have used a double data outlet on the single back box. For the cost of 2x CAT5e/6 modules and a single back box against and 2x ethernet outlet face plates and 2 single back boxes. Also less round taken up.
Had same thought however it might be a good idea to keep both separate for lightning protection. But then - it would fry the switch anyway so... Unless external cable had a surge protection
@@7z9 lightning protection would be pointless on a run that short. The benefit of individual boxes is the lack of disturbing the other connection during maintenance, and ease of knowing which is which for the customer.
@@aardwolf21 sounds fair
And use only 4 cores of the EV-Ultra for Ethernet and the remaining 4 for CT-clamps. Then he could ha saved the whole Cat-cable
this is why sparks should stay away from data installs ;)
Unprotected wood is prone to rot, especially in wet and rainy weather conditions, I will not recommend that. Better to build a metal or concrete kinda stand if it can't be mounted on house wall..
I'm a carpenter btw, so I know something about wood and weather impact :)
Agreed DMG. You can buy “marine MDF” but you still need to use MDF edge sealer. A sort of filler. Then paint it all. MDF doesn’t take paint on cut edges very well. Pity the EV charger Co. Don’t make an optional mounting plate. I guess when on site it’s whatever is to hand, but swollen wood looks bad and performs worse than that.
Great company, I wish you were closer. I would use you for my PV Solar & battery install.
I'm pretty sure they could have dropped in either a steel pole or concrete fence post and attached to that?
Jordan you need to let the chains of Reuben , you should have let him terminate the SWA cable he should be competent by now to do so un-supervised
The string inside the cat5 can be used to strip back the sheath to prevent small nicks in the pairs front a stripper tool
The "string" should not be pulled, it's there to stop the cable being stretched, pulling on it could deform the conductors and effect their electrical properties.
Suggestion for EV charger manufacturers: supply timber mounting boards for your chargers as an accessory (finished appropriately for durability). Does anyone do this?
I've always thought you are brave to show what you do for the world to see and the reputation of your business. There are always people that seem to always know best and I'd probably call some offering some good advice and there are others just smart arses!!. Having worked in this type of industry for over 40 years, you do learn as you go along and how you want to install something is not someone else’s choice but if it's safe, looks good and works all the better. Well done with all your videos.
What was the thinking behind the PVC trunking? Surely galvanised would have been much more reliable for glanding to and for Earthing the SWA armour. Also without sandwiching the banjo between two locknuts the plastic creeping is liable to cause an unreliable cpc connection to the armour. Also agree the ply mounting plate getting wet is likely to degrade it.
I'd agree with using galv trunking as it's almost the same price as PVC these days, more fun to work with, won't show up the dirt so much, complies with fire support, and as you said easier and more reliable for earthing of the SWA armour
18:36 Have a look into keystone connectors, they don’t need a punching tool and are modular, makes the installation more neater and faster 😊
Yeah but using a punchdown tool is just more satisfying. Plus I like the ends getting cut off on my terminations.
@@austinfarley4971 😅 yes, good punchdown and rj45 crimp tools are definitely satisfying to work with 😇
My argument for the keystones (at least the ones, that are “tool-less“) is, that you only need a flush-cutting side-cutter and you are ready to rumble.
From my experience, there was never a missing contact, in contrast to the punchdown system (but this may be not a problem for a skilled worker 😁 )
Please don't use RJ-45 jacks on the end of each cable. Use a Keystone jack on the end and then a patch cable. RJ-45 is a pretty fragile connector and the retention clip can break easily. Using a Keystone makes it easy to replace if the cable has a problem.
Yes good point although it's in a box that should not necessarily be opened for any reason. And if they were to do anything they would have to cut the end off anyway to pull the cable through.
You must buy crap RJ45s if your retention clips break easily, the pass through crimps are crap aswell, literally got called out to fix a sparky who done them the other day and they were shorting out.
Old fashioned ones are best
Retention clips tend to break when not protected by a boot. I've not managed to break any booted ones so I only fit them with boots now.
@@calummcmillan3691 nothing at all wrong with the pass throughs as long as they’re terminated with the correct tool. I’ve used hundreds and never had an issue.
Fair, but also not needed, the RJ-45 I've worked with in outdoor settings have been hella robust.
8P8C 8 pins, 8 conductors. RJ45 is technically a different standard but that's what the industry has decided to call it.
Nice to see some Networking, as this will be the way ahead. Well done good, project.
The twists reduces interference on TP cables, or noise caused by other circuts or between pairs, not affecting speed. Referring to 18:50. Maybe that's what you meant :)
Gigabit and 10G speeds are actually affected by the number of twists on each pair. If they're not correct, the Tx/Rx will reduce the speed. You are correct though as they do counter interference but yeah, can also affect speed if not done correctly!
Well, too much noise will fail 100Mbps negotiation and bring it down to 10, so it *kind of* does (although this would take a lot of noise lol). More applies to 1+ Gbps capable link speeds
the string in cat5E is used to split the sheathing farther from the initial strip point, also maybe some pressure treated ply behind the EV charger would be better seeing as its exterior. that or a piece of tile back board for the water resistance.
2 Things. I agree with the other comments about untreated ply. Looking at the fence, it will be post and rail under the feather edge. If you had mounted either the top or bottom in line with the arris rail, and put a small beam to take the screws behind the charge point, you would've been fine without a board.
The other is the string in data cables. It's not there as a strengthener or stiffener, it's a draw string, to cut back insulation to ensure you get undamaged cable.
SysNet administrator here from the US. Yes we use the T568B standard too. T568A technically should only be used if you're having to go backward compatible with older equipment like phone lines and what not. But I haven't seen an issue with using the B standard. Also, I've never gotten a straight answer but I'm told the B standard is also better to use for networking as it provides less crosstalk interference making it better for 1/10gbit connections.
I appreciate the passthrough connector. I've seen electricians, engineers, and many others either just make the colors match, use A on one end and B on the other, or my personal favorite is only punching down 2 or 4 of the 8 wires since they assume it will just be for analog phone lines. Yes I've redone the terminations at a few apartments me and some friends have moved into because of this. Gotta make sure it's done right since we have gigabit fiber internet in our area (They just started rolling out 10gigabit) for really cheap.
I agree with you that bigger is better with SWA. I hate glanding 1.5mm. It's so much easier to fit a gland to the bigger stuff.
Well... the general rule with fences is that the "nice" side faces away from your property, which would make this the neighbour's fence.
Bad form to attach things to someone else's fence (presumably in this case the homeowners squared it with their neighbours first though)
Your general rule for fences is wrong. Let you do the gooooogling if you wish.
If it's on your land you can have the nice side whichever way you want
Next time fix an EV charger on a gate. That would be more impressive! Good video guys
I would never attach anything to a fence, especially with the ongoing stormy weather we've been getting the past few years, that's a danger waiting to happen.
I can't think of a genuinely good reason why mounting an EV on a fence panel is a good idea. Even EV manufacturers such as Anderson state this.
If it had to be that location, I would have insisted in installing a mounting post into the ground. I would have at least used on the one main fence posts rather than the panel.
I assume there are no ownership issues and risk of someone drilling from the other side, difficult to tell from the video.
That dats connector is technically known as a "8P8C", with RJ45 being the standard.
8 pin 8 conductor
Fences are usually a bad idea because at least in the US there can be a fight about whose property they are on and where the property line is or isn't and who owns them and they rot.
Cladding rots, brick crumbles, concrete cracks. At the end of the day, if the fence is structurally sound and maintained, I can't see a big issue. Any EV charger installation should be regularly inspected and remedial action taken if the mounting is suspect.
@@benpatana7664 It's the UK, that fence is not going to be maintained.
Great job and good video.But I would be concerned about using plywood behind the charger as it will deteriorate very quickly, could of put a alloy plate behind bolted to the fence which could have had a connection to earth ?.
Phenolic wood would be much better, but even that would need sealing around the cut edge. Your ply board won’t last the winter. 🤔
I looked at that TP-Link TL-SG105 network switch used here and there are ventilation holes on the edge that was butted up to the consumer unit in this video. I would have left around 1 cm of space between the 2 to allow heat to dissipate. It is true that this device only consumes a couple watts, but cheap switches can fail easily enough - no need to help it along by making it hotter than it has to be.
Speaking of heat - I wonder what heat losses the future inverter and batteries will have under load. That is a rather confined space that could get warm quickly. Could always change out the door to a ventilated one if it is an issue.
Why use a switch all, straight from the Internet hub to the zappi would be fine.
Also on a previous video a switch was used to provide POE for a wireless access point. A POE injector could have been used.
I call them "doink connectors"... 'cause that's the sound they make when they plug in
I had to check I wasn’t watching an older video after seeing Jordan tell Ruben how to gland swa 😂.
Ck armour slice is better than that, and should have installed a post, expect a callback for that wood rotting itself and the fence.
You should get some shorter patch cords. The one you used looks rather ordinary. Agree with other comments that the exposed plywood edge on the Zappi mount is going to fail. It should have been sealed.
Looks like you forgot to earth the armour lads. Chap doing the CU mentions earthing at the Zappi but don't see a fly lead anywhere.
Former networking guy here watching you mix power and data - yuk! And please go back with some shorter patch cables! You work so hard to make board internals neat and then do that. You can get blue ones for Artisan colours if you like. Really don't like the cheap network switch. Would've preferred more data cables back to the router. Happy to get involved if you need some data guidance! Just got my L2 so really appreciate the swa work!
thorght the same about mixing power and data in the same trunking.
@@rayroulstone3565 Not really a problem unless you are trying to run a high performance network, for what the zappi and inverter will be doing it is fine as long as the cable jacket is rated for the correct voltages. Just see how the EV ultra cable has a cat5 cable running inside the same sheath as an swa.
@@rayroulstone3565 Crossing data and power is usually okay. In parallel is a huge no, no!
@@martinw245 I know that. looks to me like he coiled up CATx cable in the trunking, parallel to high power circuits. Agreed might not be an issue at the data rates it will see but is not best practice and I thought they were high quality electrictions.
@@AndrewStrydomBRP
True re EV Ultra with its Cat5 in the same sheath. But I suspect its not basic Cat5, probably has additional shielding.
What happens to the plyboard when it gets wet? 🤔
Shhh. No spoilers.
Nothing if it is proper external grade ply. I am not sure it is looking at it.
it rubs the lotion into its skin...
I will definitely be booking you to install my Zappi and change my consumer unit sometime next year + solar in due course.
I'm on the fence whether its right or wrong.
Presumably you didn’t use stainless screws to mount the plywood, so you’ll have rotten plywood and rusty screws…?
Good to see safe isolation procedure but you also need to test L-E and N-E, and LOCK OFF
I'm worried about sinking and leaning caused by the ground. Walls have concrete or stone foundations, while wood fencing is just hammered into the soil, with nothing to buttress it or any other type of supports. That and agreeing with everyone about worrying about rot.
Fence posts usually have concrete base
perhaps you should speak to a professional fencer...
John should've worn a Batman cap too
I do love the way that everyone in the comments is an "expert" yet not one single person criticizing you has a TH-cam channel of their own showing their handiwork that I can find! Keep up the good work Jordan and crew, I'm within reach of you but unfortunately can't afford for you to come out and replace my rubbish BP Pulse charger with a Hypervolt one yet! So make sure you stay in business for at least another year and Ill save up lol
I did try but my work got slated, anyone can twist the wrong wires together every now and then.
too busy going round replacing this biscuit thin plywood (un-sealed non marine 5mm ) that someone keeps putting on the back of car chargers....
T568A is a cross connection datacable, T568B is a straight connection datacable. I'm not sure how many of the B variant I've crimped in my datacentre years, but a couple thousand easy!
Hah, the backfire when you thought that "keyboard warriors" would complain about mounting in the fence, but it ended up proper people complaining legitimate reason about using untreated plywood which will cause problems in near future.
Some 8P8C (RJ45) Termination Tips:
Use the grey sleeve to untwist the cores.
Once punched into keystone, double punch them for good luck.
Use a good ethernet signal tester if gig or 10gig is needed. Or if 100mb installation, at least one that cycles each core to ensure you have the order correct.
Still remember a "customer" in Cheltenham insisted I fit RJ45 plugs as he didn't want 8P8C (as in the quote) because they weren't as good, redid the quote with RJ45 plugs as requested (and charged extra)! Did the job tested all the cables and produced test report, handed over to customer and left site. A week later I got a phone call asking why there were bits on the side of the RJ45 plugs and they were no good as they would not fit into the access points he was having installed. I took great joy in explaining to him he got exactly what he asked for and what he wanted was in the original quote.
Instead of double punch for luck, can we not buy pegs off a gypsy woman.
You know, I never thought of using the sleeve to do that. Always ended up with sore fingers after getting five or six cables down the patch panel. I'm going to try this out, thanks. You just taught a grizzled 30-something network engineer something!
I've never needed to double-punch, but I do a visual inspection with a strong light and a magnifier to make sure the wires are all the way down in the IDC terminal.
If you don't have an Ethernet signal tester, I've found a pair of switches with a cable-test feature work quite well.
Quick pick-up on 13:37 here: I believe you have your ethernet colour coding out-of-standard. Based on the Cisco Certified Network Admin course, the correct order from L-R - When viewing the connector with the pins facing toward you - Is:
*568-A* (For standard connections): White-Orange, Orange, White-Green, Blue, White-Blue, Green, White-Brown, Brown.
*568-B* (For _Roll-over_ connections): White-Green, Green, White-Orange, Blue, White-Blue, Orange, White-Brown, Brown.
In this it looks a lot like you got the orange and brown wire pairs mixed up, though the cable should work just fine (And will still pass testing) so long as the wiring order is the same at both ends of the cable. ✅
The best fix for this is to simply attach small notes to each end of the cable advising of non-conformant wire pair use. If the cable needs to be modified later (e.g: To install a PoE injector) this will save that technician (And your customer) a lot of time and money in looking at the installation and finding that out for themselves¹. You could do this whilst attending to that rather not-very-rain-safe looking bit of ply you mounted the charger on. 🙃
(¹ - Imagine you came across an installation with a DIY-fitted cable run where the cable itself and terminations were safe in the sense of no risks for electrocution, but L and N were wired to the opposite colour conductors. Ethernet's not so safety critical, but in terms of understanding the installation the same concerns apply. 🔀)
Ethernet cabling carries differential signals normally induced through a low voltage 1:1 isolation transformer, so each pair of wires is effectively wired to coils at both ends and forms a closed circuit when connected...So provided each pair maintains a connection in parallel between its respective transformers incorrect colours will still work *if the same departure from standard is made at both ends* and will pass a test on a device like the one you used.
Obviously you don't want the output from transformer A1 to wind up at B3 (And the customers device to receive no IP/Internet!) so noting an accidental departure from standard - That doesn't impact safety, and will function as-is - In the installation documentation and on the cable itself is a very good idea.😇
I came straight to the comments and they didn't disappoint. Fair play to you for making content in this day and age. It wouldn't matter what material you used it still would have been wrong in someones eyes.
Of course it would matter.
An appropriate material would have gained praise, plywood delaminates incredibly quickly, you’ll see it visibly deteriorating over a few weeks/months and will result in a call back.
"Nothing is as permanent as the temporary." is a saying here.
Hiya. Your Anderson manuals for installation says not to fit to a fence if that helps. 😉 Where can charging points be installed and how long does installation take?
Charging points must be installed at least 500mm above the ground on a vertical and sturdy substrate, such as a brick wall. They cannot be mounted onto a wooden fence for example. Some of our customers have made ‘plinths’ such as vertical railway posts (these are suitable at the discretion of installers). Andersen installation takes a minimum of three hours. Unlike other providers, we don’t squeeze two jobs into a day. When our engineer arrives on site, they are there exclusively for you
I reinforced a fence style door with 3/4in external grade ply. Well over 10 years later it is still fine. Not sealed at the edges and not soaking up water. My current garage doors are likewise reinforced with quality 3/4in external ply and after almost 5 years no issues. There is quality ply and ordinary ply. Get the good stuff and you will be fine.
The cuts at 25:28. Brilliant :D
You know, with Cory gone you think is it still going to be a good watch (as he was quite entertaining) and yes, great bunch of guys and great content. 👍 Nice to see you on the tools Jordan.
I think the channel is definitely missing Cory. No one close to being as entertaining as he was. He is almost impossible to replace tbf.
the cord in the cat cable is a pull cord to help remove the outer sheath
the little string inside the data cable is to strip the cable. pull it and it cuts through the outer jacket also iv had a lot of issues with rj45 passthroughs so i tend to stay away from them.
I'm from north america where installs on fences are common and i can vouch that it'll be just fine as long as some of the mounting screws go through the fence boards and into the fence posts
Only thing I'd argue is definitely not an ideal material to fit to. Electrical fault can equal 🔥. Plus timber 🔥 🔥 depending on time frame car may also 🔥 and ⌚ 💣
Even a solid fence will eventually buckle to storm winds.
we don't have SWA here, we use something called MCMK that has the phase and neutral conductors in the middle and the earth wires spins around the conductors
Only problem i can see with the fence is they get taken out by strong wind some times and if a strong wind dose take out the fence depending on witch way it goes its gunna smash that charge point off the floor and if it gets damaged water could get in 🤷♂️ also that ply will de laminate and fall to bits in a few weeks
The cat5 cable string is used as a built-in stripper, you pull on it to take the outer insulator off.
13:45 Not a bad tool. I'm not an electrician just an IT engineer. It used to take me about 40mins to crimp those until I had to do some desk moves so spent time to practice. Got it down to 5mins. Never had passthrough ends though. To get the correct length without that, just put the cable against your thumbnail. That's the length you want to cut it.
Very impressive work fellas,super tidy finish 10/10.
Personally no problem with fence. However i would mention it on the installation agreement/ warranty. That they should have a ECIR including the stste of fence etc. At a determined length of time. Cover your backs. Thats all i would say.
Why are John & Ruben wearing sunglasses inside??
Not sure about Ruben. But John's are prescription safety glasses. So he doesn't need to wear his normal glasses.
They’re both wearing safety glasses from one of their sponsors I believe
Have you checked who owns the fence, as the right side fence is normally owned by that side
A fence is temporary structure, side of brick building is not, the wood you use is not treated for outside use, give five year it be on floor. SWA stripping tool is waste of money, I bought one too.
NOT a temporary structure.
Use self amalgamating tape instead of gland shrouds outside as water can run into shroud and should o ring in gland fail you get water into your cable.
Future proofing a call out. 👍
The US also uses type B for data.
Morning . I remember the swa stripping tool, was total rubbish, what a faff. Still in my box with no scratches on it. I wouldn’t really cut swa with the decent cable cutters. The blade gets damaged, just used for copper conductors . The tiny cord in CAT cable can be used to strip back the outer. I really wouldn’t want to mount EV point to the fence. The fence supporting legs will rot with a few years especial in earth. Unless you add concrete short post in to support the wood. When the wooden post rots in the ground the post in air will still support the fence. I would rather get a local company to make up a metal post with a backing plate and concrete that structure in . You can even design it yourself put your name on it and add it in the quote. It would be lost in the rate costs anyway and clients would be chuffed that you didn’t fix it to a rot-able fence. Crimping tool looks NICE. Install looks good. Just wish you used a metal structure for the Zappi. Don’t know how you find the time to do the videos but appreciate your effort .
The only thing I'd say regarding putting something heavy like an EVSE on a fence is have it where one of the big support posts are so you have the strength of the post behind it too.
And the "head" of an RJ45/ethernet/whatever cable I usually call a jack. I suppose the proper term is "connector housing" though. Your wiring layout on an RJ45 really doesn't matter *so long as both ends match one another*
Not correct, twist is very important.
The gland sheath. Please start calling it a carrot. 😂
Are you allowed to go into the supplier side of the isolator next to the meter? Isn't it only dno and the supplier that are legally allowed to go in there?
Should of made a unistrut frame for base
@artisanelectrics I think it would be a different matter if it was fence panels but a solid fence like that is a much more permanent structure.
Your way to remember which of the two ways to wire a network jack, A or B, is very flawed. In the USA we use B too.
Does the fence belong to the neighbour ? Normally the outside faces away from the owner. If it's the neighbours fence you will need their permission.
Maintenance of the supporting structure may be on one party but only if stated in deeds and shown on the plan. Otherwise it’s a shared fence unless it’s clearly on one persons land then solely responsible.
@@TroggyPB I'm aware of the little Ts on the deeds map indicating fence ownership, but think this is a bit deep. So was suggesting a simple on the spot solution.
It was often said that when you put a fence up you must ensure the nails point inwards towards your property. This implies that the horizontals that support the verticals must be on your side. Clearly this is not the case here and the fence is more than likely to be the neighbours property.
Personally, for a device handling so much power, I would want to mount it on its own substantial steel mounting posts, with careful positioning to negate the use of any wooden panel.
that string is a pullstring. it strips the cable without cutters
Not impressed with using a raw piece of plywood, that definitely will not last, also you can see that fence hasn't been fixed with galvanised fixings so that featheredge will be an issue in the future also.
Just think with some forward planning a far better material could have been used for the mounting board.
The twists on your CAT5e cable only help with the RF shielding, so "the speed" only indirectly, but an inch or two here or there isn't going to make any difference.
For the wiring order it doesn't matter if you use A or B, as long as you use the same colours in both ends it's fine.
12:08 the official name is 8P8C (8 positions, 8 conductors) connector
The reason you shouldn't untwist a ethernet cable too much is that the twist is there to "prevent" signal noise and crosstalk.
Another thing to look out for is too keep the pairs the same length.
Then again those devices probably only use 100Mbit and you need to mess up a lot before getting into troubles on a 100Mbit connection.
To be honest same length is not an issue, the pairs are different lengths in the construction of the cable anyway (prime number twists, all different) to mitigate crosstalk.
@@aardwolf21 There is a limit in signal skew!
The difference of pair length in 100m of ethernet cable is well within the tolerances.
It's not because the length of pairs in an ethernet cable are not 100% identical that it doesn't matter at all and that we should ignore this when terminating/connecting cables.
Agreed, whether you could terminate a connector that badly that skew would actually have an effect is a different matter, it is only 125MHz worst case after all.
Clearly these guys are not approved Zappi installers. The professional appearance is a good one though.
3:30 that's a plumbing tool used to cut metal pipes
Why would you need to cut metal pipes along their length?
@@stupot_64 I've used plumbing tools to cut armoured cable though!
Sparks doing data and telecommunications.
Hey it's low voltage we can do it. Nar you can't. I have seen so much sparky bodge work.
And the tester. Basic as can be. Like checking electrics by just testing for voltage. I could easy terminate a cable that passes yet will never work.
Connector is an 8P8C. RJ45 is a standard but everyone does call them RJ45's.
Krone is the punch down tool. One of many types of IDC (3M, BiX, Quant being a sample of others). Krone is by far the most common for structures cabling.
Why one keyjack per box? You can get 2's and 4's per box.