Eternally grateful. Thank you for the very clear, concise, and "disciplined" instructions. I followed them (and still put one of the L1 into the L2) and wondered why the switches were working in opposite directions. All sorted now. Many thanks mate!
Great stuff! Thanks. I especially appreciated the info about connecting the Earth wire. As it was same as yours, plastic to metal face plate!! Thanks again.
Thank you so much, i was able to DIY my switch thx to ur vid, i actually forgot how to replace a light switch, nice video, only problem was, the seller told me that the switch will illuminate LED blue light when its switch on, actually it was a glow in the dark mini plastic LOL, guess i gotta replace the switch again with a version that truly illuminate LED light haha Btw, thumbs up to ur wonderful vid!
Thanks so much for clear and instructive video. Helped us replaced all light switches from plastic to metal and made safe earthing.etc.....have struggled to get an electrician out (to even quote ).. for other larger job ... (sigh.... : - ). ). Thanks handyman!
I ended up calling an electrician, just to be safe. and indeed there was a a live current going thru there. The metal box was live as well. The wiring happened to be faulty
my old switch has two holes, one red wire going in the top and two red wires going into the same hole at the bottom... my new switch (just a basic one from wickes) has 4 holes labeled L1, L2, L3 and L4, the earth wire is in the boxing. ive tried lots of different combo's to get it working with the new switch however nothing seems to work. (i've also tried changing the bulb as i assumed that it might be dead... its not) cheers in advance mate. you're videos are epic!
Good advice especially the earth wire stuff. We have metal plates with no earth wire on a few light switches. But do have RCBOs on the 2 lighting and 2 main circuits. Still going to put earth wire into those light switches The only thing I would avoid is testing cables with the screwdiver with the neon light. Better to use a proper tester with finger guards and short pin probes.
In most cases I would use my phone camera or video and capture/record where the wires were and when installing the new light switch I look back on the picture/video and replace where they were originally
Hi mate, I’ve brought a house and just trying to change a few switches etc, there’s one that has a dimmer switch on and only has 2 red cables and the earth cable connected into the metal box in self, the only things attach to the switch is one red cable going into com & another into l1 or l2, would be just a simple case to but the com wire into the com wire etc, neither have any tape to show if one is neutral, thank you in advance
Yes, there is no neutral at most light switches, this explains it- th-cam.com/video/DoVSdqeFkhE/w-d-xo.html&t Just one red wire into com and the other red wire into L1 or L2 If it's a metal switch, you should connect an earth wire from the earth terminal on the switch to the earth terminal on the backbox too ;-)
Nice video. Could you make one with plugs to? I tryed to change a plug but it seems like there was a new standard in design and colours on cables. I got confused so skiped it.
Tried to change a light switch today.... 5 hours later, many trips later.... still tripping the fuse box. I've got a black wire into a little plastic thing, a green wire and two reds... Electrician hopefully coming tomorrow.
hi, ive gone to change my light switch and the box behind is plastic with no earthing lug. is it safe to just connect the earth to the earthing lug on the back of the light switch??
I just take a quick picture with my 5 inch media player device to see where everything was. I use it quite a bit actually. BTW we call "earhting" "grounding" here in the USA.
If you have a plastic backbox, with no Earth connection and are attaching a new metal switch, should the terminated Earth wires be attached to the faceplate? Perhaps one short wire from the terminal block? It's a landing switch, so lots of wires!
great vids,i am using a single light switch and plan on putting on a metal face plate only as i am leaving the old plastic back on the wall so do i need to earth this before i connect it as my friend told me i do not need to as he has connected them (metal face and plastic backing)all over his house,can you give me some feedback on this,thanks.
I'm swapping a rocker lightswitch + dimmer switch(2 modules) for a 2 gang plastic switch like in the video. I notice on mine that the "bridge" lead goes from Com on the rocker to L1 on the dimmer, then the sleeved switched lead goes from Com on the dimmer into the circuit, presumably to the dimmable lights. The 2-module switch was professionally fitted, so am I right to think it does not matter if the power flows Com to L1 or L1 to Com through the switch? Thanks - very helpful video!
I have a two way switch. Each switch goes to a different light. I had some renovations done in my house and I came back to see that both switches go to both lights. I checked the wires according to your video. It looks fine. Is there something which you think i might be over looking that might have caused the switches to be in control of both lights? Thank you for your video and time
This is a great vid. Thanks for posting. Is it possible to place an earth wire in, as you do in the vid, even of there seems to be no earth on the box ?
Thanks, No, if there is no earth wire in the cable or the wires leading to the light switch you would have to get one installed which would probably mean a rewire. Under no circumstances should you fit a metal faced plate if there is no earth wire ;-)
***** Just one more question. There are only three wires leading to the connector. Red, blue and yellow. This is old school, right ? The other switch in the room has brown black grey and and earth. Can i fix the dimmer to that one?
lmwnyc It sounds like the second light switch has been installed more recently. As long as the switch is earthed it should not be a problem, but really you need to check that the earth wire is actually connected to the earthing circuit.
I hope you can help. We have a late 60's early 70's house and tried to change the light switch covers, only to find the plastic holders for the screws inside the wall metal holders have deteriorated with age. Is there anywhere we can get new plastic screw holders rather than having to replace the whole of the metal holder for the wires? Hope this makes sense.
+mdigiman Your best option is to take pictures of the wiring and post the question here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/lighting-f33.html It's probably just a wire in the wrong terminal though.
Hi ultimate handyman, none of our light wiring has earthing. does this mean it's not safe? out house is semi detached 1930s built. I only found earthing on sockets so I am confused. do I need to replace all the wiring? please advice. thanks in advance.
There was a copper shortage decades ago, so it is normal to find some older houses with no earth wires on the lighting circuits. They are perfectly safe providing you only install plastic light switches and lights on the lighting circuit. You should never install metal switches or lights on a lighting circuit with no earth wire though as it could be very dangerous under fault conditions.
Hi, i have just baught a new metal double light switch like yours but the connections on the back are totally different and also the layout is. On the back it has a L port at the top and L1 and L2 ports at the bottom and it is mirrored on the other connection block next to it. And it has an earth port. I was wondering why it is different, i baught it from B&Q a few days ago it does not have all the other ports that yours has. It will be used in the downstairs passage to control top+bottom light
Evening, I am looking at your detailed vid on how to re wire a light switch. I want to change it to a orvibo touch switch...if I send you a picture of the back of the new switch and current wires could you give me some advice please? Gary
+Gary Dicker I'll try, but soon to retire for the night. If you need a quick answer you could ask here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/lighting-f33.html It's free to join and you can post pictures ;-)
i have checked the ceiling roses and there are earths connecetd,i put two face plates on two single sockets because there were earths on them but there is no earth wires on the double light switches?.
+steven trueman I would not leave masking tape on as it could be a fire risk, but if you use insulation tape then yes- leave it on. Thanks for the comment
Hi, I'm looking to use the same light switches but change what lights each switch turns on and off. It bugs me that the left button for example turns on lights on my right lol. OK just starting your video now to see if it can help
@@ultimatehandyman thanks. I think a lot of it is common sense with guidance from someone like yourself. Just a lack of knowledge and confidence at times puts things off. An electrician asked for 40 quid to do it. I am a believer in people making money, especially when qualified but at the same any savings I can make is great since everything feels like prices keep going up while salaries don't.
@ultimatehandyman the guy who wired the house fitted plastic backs and faceplates,the problem is he has cut the earth wire away on all sockets,how should i go about putting on an earth wire?
Silly question, the block I'm removing has common on the bottom and 2 then 1 on the top, the one I'm replacing it with has common on the top and 1 then 2 on the bottom, the wire that went to com in the old box automatically goes to com in the new one?
It is possible that i didn't replace the light switch correctly and that there is a dangerous amount of current following to the screws. I Tried all the other light switches with the neon tester and it didn't light up. The broken light switch was an MK 5 Amp X, 250 V, A C Only. I switched it with a 10 Amp light switch i bought from argos, i think the mannufacturer is called "Living". Could the problem be that? Thank you for your prompt answers.
I have a double switch as you have here BUT my unit has NO screws to wall and just pins to hold into original switch base. Will my new switch (double switch polished chrome) fit into the original base OK? The base is about 20 years old and one switch broke.
I'm not sure, sorry. I have seen screwless face plates, but normally the switch part is screwed to a regular back box, then a cover plate fits over the switch.
I replaced a broken 1 gang 1 way switch with a 1 gang 2 way switch and when i finished connecting the wires and putting the case back onto the wall, i turned the power back on. The light worked fine but when i put the tester onto the two screws on the front of the switch, the tester showed there was a current passing through. Do you have any idea why that might be?
I'm trying to change one of the old switches in my house but the existing link wire goes from COM to L1 where it joins another Live in L1. I am confused as the link wire is from COM to COM here yet the light still works.
It does not matter in most cases. These videos might help to explain it better- How a light switch works- th-cam.com/video/h7qPuhxOyqw/w-d-xo.html UK light wiring circuits- th-cam.com/video/DoVSdqeFkhE/w-d-xo.html&t
i am chaning a light.swith in my house. it is currenly a white plastic one. the new one i hav picked is also white plastic but has a rating of 10A. is this ok as i dont know rating of the current switch?
hi, ive the same switch but a 3 gang light swich with 3 coms at top and 3 live 1 and 3 live 2 but the old face plate has only 2 coms at the top any ideas on how the do this ? thank you
Trying to find how to turn a single way light switch into a double light switch for two separate lights, does this switch what you were changing work for two separate lights?
It's not always easy, it depends how your lighting circuit is wired. This video explains that- th-cam.com/video/DoVSdqeFkhE/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment 👍
+serberious No, I'm afraid that is not possible for a couple of reasons. There is not normally a Neutral wire at the light switch, also the lighting cable is not designed for such loads, so the cable would not be suitable to carry the current required for a socket.
Hi. Can I just check that the bare copper wire that you are adding is screwed to the same screw as the original earth wire on the back box? My screen is a little dark and I can't see it clearly enough to be definite and obviously I want to get it right when I install my metal switch/faceplate. Also, is the copper wire any particular size/thickness? Many thanks :) Thanks for the great video!
Yes, the earth wire is connected between the backbox and the earthing terminal on the switch. Normally you need a piece of wire that is the same size or thicker than the CPC of the cable. I'd get a piece of 1.5mm green and yellow wire as I think that is the thinnest that you can buy, unless you make a piece yourself from a bare wire and some green and yellow sleeving. Thanks for the comment
I just fitted a single light switch. it has 2 wires going into the com and a single wire to the L1. I mimicd the wires putting on a new switch exactly the same way as the old. my question is if I had loose wires how slow and and fast would I know there's a bad connection and if there was a bad connection will the trip switch go off ? thanks.
It's always best to try to pull the wires out using a finger and thumb before switching the electric back on. Loose wires can cause sparking and lead to fires.
Thanks for the video. Im trying to change a switch in my kitchen. the wiring is as follows. 2 Red wires 2 Black wires and 2 earth wires. Im guessing it has live coming to the switch from the CU and then going to the light itself. On my new switch there is a Com L1 and L2 terminals. How would i wire this? am i right in thinking the red live coming from the CU goes to the com terminal then the red live going to the light itself goes to the L1 and I Join the 2 black neutrals together and not put them in any terminal on the switch? any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
You are welcome. It sounds nearly right providing the loop in is at the switch and someone has not previously wired up two lights or similar. The two neutrals (black wires) need terminating into a terminal block though, not into a switch terminal. Example here using harmonised colours- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/light_switch_1.jpg please ensure the earth wires are also connected to the earth terminal.
Hi there, I'm trying to replace my light switches, but keep finding that the old switches aren't labelled. For example, I opened up one and saw two red wires going into the back of the old switch, but there was no COM or L1 label on the old switch. Does it matter where the red wires go in the back of my new switch? Thanks!
ellloooo, just had 2 mains powered smoke alarms fitted only problem is the back up battery light up my gu10 spot light bulbs, He wired them into the lighting circuit and now even if I turn the mains off the gu10s stay slightly lit. feedback from the batteries 2 x 9v is 18v powering 6 x 4w bulbs
It might not be feedback from the batteries. The new wiring to the alarms might be close to another cable that is creating induced current to illuminate the low wattage lamps. I recently changed some tungsten filament lamps for LED lamps here and they stay dimly lit even when off. My smoke alarms are all completely battery run so they are not connected to any circuit. I seriously doubt the alarm batteries will be feeding back.
thanks for the reply, when I take the front off both the smoke alarms the gu10s go out hence me thinking its the batteries back feeding. If I only take 1 smoke alarm off they dim abit both off light off. strange 1
Hi, I notice at 5:01 you said when your fitting a metal one you will need to earth it. I have a plastic one with no erathing terminal. So what would I do in that situation, just put some sleeve on the earth wire and leave it?
+Richy Rich I have done that in the past, but apparently you are supposed to just put some earth sleeving on it and then terminate it into a terminal (just cut a single terminal from a strip of terminal connectors)
great video and this bit I get now, my question is a leeeetle more technical.... An existing 3 gang switch opposite the single gang switch I am replacing with a PIR motion detector/switch turns on and the same light on one of the three switches behind it... This means that there is a wire in COM, L1 and L2.... the PIR only has a COM and L1 terminal.... am I correct in assuming the wire I need is indeed in L1 currently and L2 is the connection between this single gang switch and the 3 gang directly behind? If this is the case can we safely leave the L2 wire loose in the socket (its plastic not metal) or put it in L1s port on the PIR as well??
Sorry, I'm out at the moment and can't grasp what you are asking. Please ask in the electrical forum ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/electric-forum-uk-f3.html and give as much information as possible, preferably with pictures and hopefully one of the sparks will help ;-)
Hi, on the earthing cable to the face plate, does the order need to go 3core Earth > face plate > earth terminal? Or can it go as you've done there with the copper wire added from terminal to faceplate? Somehow doesn't seem there is a 'loop' with your method?
It sounds like you might have an intermediate switch, which will need replacing with another intermediate switch- th-cam.com/video/SUlt4ouCYPU/w-d-xo.html
Hi, just a quick question - what is the link wire between the two coms for? And will this link wire always be there in all typical light switch installations? Many thanks.
How do I make the earth wire like in your video as I am going from plastic to a metal plate for my light switch? But I did not see properly how you made the extra earth wire for the metal plate..
+Mskerryanne You put the circuit earth wire, which should be sheathed with green and yellow sleeving into the earthing terminal of the back box. You then connect the secondary earth wire to that same terminal in the back box and then connect the other end of that wire into the earthing terminal on the switch, again if you are using bare wire it needs to be sheathed with green and yellow sleeving (or just use a piece of dedicated earth wire)
@@ultimatehandyman Managed to assemble the puzzle, wasn't clear at first sight and just took a best guess how it should be:D And screwed it back on the wall....biggest motivation was thinking of telling my wife that I won't be able to screw the light in the kitchen back, and that we either will need to get a new switch or call electrician.....sat there with those small pieces of stuff like there's no tomorrow otherwise:)))
It depends. If there is just a live and switched live if you wire it wrong it won't work correctly. Some light switches have the loop at the light switch, if you get this mixed up incorrectly or you mix up the earth with the lives it will bang (probably at the consumer unit)
It's pretty much the same as in this video but you have to ensure you get the correct rated switch and it's critical that you isolate it and ensure it is dead before swapping it over for the new switch.
Another great demo! I have a single light switch thats been fitted by previous owner smack bang middle of a wall that I dont really use and also because of the position, looks ridiculous! LOL How can i remove this and also fill in the hole afterwards?
+jaybeth69 You would have to disconnect the cable at it's source (probably at the light's ceiling rose), then remove the cable and the switch.Then it depends what the wall is made from on how you go about tilling the hole?
i'm changing an old 2 way light switch for a new one, only trouble is the old switch has 2 banks with 2 holes at the top and 2 at the bottom, the new switch has 2 at the top and one at the bottom on one bank and the reverse on the other bank and unlike your switch has an extra black wire............help!!!!
I have a single light switch that controls 2 lights in my living room, but I want to put a switch in that controls them individually, I. e: double switch. Any vids, ideas or comments will be of great help. Thanks
TALK ABOUT PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCE AND APPLICATION! GOOD MAN! GOOD MAN!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Came here just for the bit about the earth wire - answered my question perfectly! Thanks 👍
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Really clear, easy to follow step by step instructions for us nervous emateur electrician types. Much appreciated.
Tim Pinder You are welcome.Thanks for the comment
Thanks. What a great comprehensive guide. Just what I needed as I am about to fit a metal switch to replace a broken plastic one.
Eternally grateful. Thank you for the very clear, concise, and "disciplined" instructions. I followed them (and still put one of the L1 into the L2) and wondered why the switches were working in opposite directions. All sorted now.
Many thanks mate!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for this. I've just replaced a broken dimmer switch and this video gave me the confidence to do it.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Great stuff! Thanks. I especially appreciated the info about connecting the Earth wire. As it was same as yours, plastic to metal face plate!!
Thanks again.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
***** My light switch smashed in and broke the left switch off the wall but the light is still switched on. Does the same apply in this situation
Keith Russell
Yes, ensuring the lighting circuit is isolated is the most important part though, before starting work on it.
I've taken all day to find someone on a video who had a linking wire I thought i'd had a doddgy switch fitted , thank you for this
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks a lot for the reassurance....a simple enough job, but you need to be sure it is done safely and correctly!
Thank you so much, i was able to DIY my switch thx to ur vid, i actually forgot how to replace a light switch, nice video, only problem was, the seller told me that the switch will illuminate LED blue light when its switch on, actually it was a glow in the dark mini plastic LOL, guess i gotta replace the switch again with a version that truly illuminate LED light haha Btw, thumbs up to ur wonderful vid!
+sucewee You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
okay on this job soon, and always come to this channel for guidance, always learn a lot from it.
Thanks for the comment
Best demo and explanation to date. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very clear instructions. Saved a mere female the price of an electrician. Yes I did buy a test screwdriver first. Thank you.
+Veronica Jarrett
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
All you need to know. Saved me from bill to electrician, Thanks !
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment
Very clear, simple to understand. Just the wires were all one colour so that wasn't a clear indication as to which one goes where.
Thanks so much for clear and instructive video. Helped us replaced all light switches from plastic to metal and made safe earthing.etc.....have struggled to get an electrician out (to even quote )..
for other larger job ... (sigh.... : - ). ). Thanks handyman!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I ended up calling an electrician, just to be safe. and indeed there was a a live current going thru there. The metal box was live as well. The wiring happened to be faulty
my old switch has two holes, one red wire going in the top and two red wires going into the same hole at the bottom... my new switch (just a basic one from wickes) has 4 holes labeled L1, L2, L3 and L4, the earth wire is in the boxing.
ive tried lots of different combo's to get it working with the new switch however nothing seems to work. (i've also tried changing the bulb as i assumed that it might be dead... its not)
cheers in advance mate. you're videos are epic!
Good advice especially the earth wire stuff. We have metal plates with no earth wire on a few light switches. But do have RCBOs on the 2 lighting and 2 main circuits. Still going to put earth wire into those light switches The only thing I would avoid is testing cables with the screwdiver with the neon light. Better to use a proper tester with finger guards and short pin probes.
In most cases I would use my phone camera or video and capture/record where the wires were and when installing the new light switch I look back on the picture/video and replace where they were originally
+MrSpiritual Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for this video, I got myself a bit stuck and your video helped me solve the problem :]
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm so grateful for this video! Thanks☺️
+chloec1203
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Sound advice...wish I'd watched it before trying to replace the light switch !
+fz7n71
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi mate, I’ve brought a house and just trying to change a few switches etc, there’s one that has a dimmer switch on and only has 2 red cables and the earth cable connected into the metal box in self, the only things attach to the switch is one red cable going into com & another into l1 or l2, would be just a simple case to but the com wire into the com wire etc, neither have any tape to show if one is neutral, thank you in advance
Yes, there is no neutral at most light switches, this explains it-
th-cam.com/video/DoVSdqeFkhE/w-d-xo.html&t
Just one red wire into com and the other red wire into L1 or L2
If it's a metal switch, you should connect an earth wire from the earth terminal on the switch to the earth terminal on the backbox too ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman thank you for the help, do you have a video on installing a normal switch to a dimmer switch? Thanks
@@JustVizq th-cam.com/video/sKTFR3naoO8/w-d-xo.html&t 👍
What if you have a plastic back box do you need supplementary earth?
nice video and very helpful but i was wondering if you could do a video on how to fit 3 ceiling lights?
Nice video. Could you make one with plugs to? I tryed to change a plug but it seems like there was a new standard in design and colours on cables. I got confused so skiped it.
Tried to change a light switch today.... 5 hours later, many trips later.... still tripping the fuse box. I've got a black wire into a little plastic thing, a green wire and two reds... Electrician hopefully coming tomorrow.
😱
H. I have 2 black and 2 red cables coming in, I only saw 1 black with a red tape wrapped round, can you explain this please many thanks.
hi, ive gone to change my light switch and the box behind is plastic with no earthing lug. is it safe to just connect the earth to the earthing lug on the back of the light switch??
Its a CK Heavy Duty Mains Tester 100-500V AC that I bought from screwfix
Great! just what I needed to know..Thank you for the step by step instructions .Good practical advice :)
+Budd james
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I just take a quick picture with my 5 inch media player device to see where everything was.
I use it quite a bit actually.
BTW we call "earhting" "grounding" here in the USA.
Hi I was wanting to know if you can fit a 20 amp double pole to a 1 way switch thanks good videos watch them all the time
If you have a plastic backbox, with no Earth connection and are attaching a new metal switch, should the terminated Earth wires be attached to the faceplate? Perhaps one short wire from the terminal block? It's a landing switch, so lots of wires!
Yes, it’s critical that any metal switch/socket or fitting is earthed 👍
Thanks Ultimate Handyman, really good clear advice...one job (successfully) done! :)
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
great vids,i am using a single light switch and plan on putting on a metal face plate only as i am leaving the old plastic back on the wall so do i need to earth this before i connect it as my friend told me i do not need to as he has connected them (metal face and plastic backing)all over his house,can you give me some feedback on this,thanks.
I'm swapping a rocker lightswitch + dimmer switch(2 modules) for a 2 gang plastic switch like in the video. I notice on mine that the "bridge" lead goes from Com on the rocker to L1 on the dimmer, then the sleeved switched lead goes from Com on the dimmer into the circuit, presumably to the dimmable lights. The 2-module switch was professionally fitted, so am I right to think it does not matter if the power flows Com to L1 or L1 to Com through the switch? Thanks - very helpful video!
Will i need to change plastic back boxes behind sockets to metal ones if i want to have metal sockets?
Hello Handyman, do you have a video on single way light switch?????. Good video, thanks alot for this
I have a two way switch. Each switch goes to a different light. I had some renovations done in my house and I came back to see that both switches go to both lights. I checked the wires according to your video. It looks fine. Is there something which you think i might be over looking that might have caused the switches to be in control of both lights?
Thank you for your video and time
This is a great vid. Thanks for posting. Is it possible to place an earth wire in, as you do in the vid, even of there seems to be no earth on the box ?
Thanks,
No, if there is no earth wire in the cable or the wires leading to the light switch you would have to get one installed which would probably mean a rewire. Under no circumstances should you fit a metal faced plate if there is no earth wire ;-)
***** Thanks so much for the info. I'll leave it well alone.
***** Just one more question. There are only three wires leading to the connector. Red, blue and yellow. This is old school, right ? The other switch in the room has brown black grey and and earth. Can i fix the dimmer to that one?
lmwnyc
It sounds like the second light switch has been installed more recently.
As long as the switch is earthed it should not be a problem, but really you need to check that the earth wire is actually connected to the earthing circuit.
***** Thank you :) You're a star. I'm really grateful. Sparky on speed dial tomo :))))
Great and very helpful video mate, thank you!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
thanks v helpful video- helped me change my first switchplate!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I hope you can help. We have a late 60's early 70's house and tried to change the light switch covers, only to find the plastic holders for the screws inside the wall metal holders have deteriorated with age. Is there anywhere we can get new plastic screw holders rather than having to replace the whole of the metal holder for the wires? Hope this makes sense.
Nick Croker I'm not sure, sorry.
I have never seen metal back boxes with plastic screw holders.
Okay. Thanks anyway.
Nick Croker You could try asking here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/electric-forum-uk-f3.html
One of the sparks might know ;-)
+mdigiman
Your best option is to take pictures of the wiring and post the question here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/lighting-f33.html
It's probably just a wire in the wrong terminal though.
thanks so much for putting this up. my first proper bit of DIY :)
Hi ultimate handyman, none of our light wiring has earthing. does this mean it's not safe? out house is semi detached 1930s built. I only found earthing on sockets so I am confused. do I need to replace all the wiring?
please advice.
thanks in advance.
There was a copper shortage decades ago, so it is normal to find some older houses with no earth wires on the lighting circuits.
They are perfectly safe providing you only install plastic light switches and lights on the lighting circuit.
You should never install metal switches or lights on a lighting circuit with no earth wire though as it could be very dangerous under fault conditions.
Hi, i have just baught a new metal double light switch like yours but the connections on the back are totally different and also the layout is. On the back it has a L port at the top and L1 and L2 ports at the bottom and it is mirrored on the other connection block next to it. And it has an earth port. I was wondering why it is different, i baught it from B&Q a few days ago it does not have all the other ports that yours has. It will be used in the downstairs passage to control top+bottom light
Evening, I am looking at your detailed vid on how to re wire a light switch. I want to change it to a orvibo touch switch...if I send you a picture of the back of the new switch and current wires could you give me some advice please? Gary
+Gary Dicker
I'll try, but soon to retire for the night. If you need a quick answer you could ask here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/lighting-f33.html
It's free to join and you can post pictures ;-)
I will do it tomorrow no rush...you go crash out..
i have checked the ceiling roses and there are earths connecetd,i put two face plates on two single sockets because there were earths on them but there is no earth wires on the double light switches?.
hi good vid, would it not be a good idea to leave the marked tape on the wires in case of any future changes?
+steven trueman
I would not leave masking tape on as it could be a fire risk, but if you use insulation tape then yes- leave it on.
Thanks for the comment
Hi, I'm looking to use the same light switches but change what lights each switch turns on and off. It bugs me that the left button for example turns on lights on my right lol. OK just starting your video now to see if it can help
It should be quite easy to do that 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks. I think a lot of it is common sense with guidance from someone like yourself. Just a lack of knowledge and confidence at times puts things off. An electrician asked for 40 quid to do it. I am a believer in people making money, especially when qualified but at the same any savings I can make is great since everything feels like prices keep going up while salaries don't.
@@UnseenSpirit Yes, as long as people common sense and a bit of guidance, they can do pretty much anything 👍
Can you get electrocuted even if you turn everything off at the mains breaker and work on a light switch?
@ultimatehandyman the guy who wired the house fitted plastic backs and faceplates,the problem is he has cut the earth wire away on all sockets,how should i go about putting on an earth wire?
Really helpful video but did I Don't even need to replace a light switch lol. Thanks :)
I changed a pull cord light switch. It had 3 wires. (Not including the earth wire) 2 in to the common & 1 in to L1. Why is this?
Silly question, the block I'm removing has common on the bottom and 2 then 1 on the top, the one I'm replacing it with has common on the top and 1 then 2 on the bottom, the wire that went to com in the old box automatically goes to com in the new one?
Yes,sometimes the terminal are in different positions depending on the make of the switch
Thank you, that's how I did it, I'm just waiting for someone to come home before I switch it back on :)
Perfect instructions, thanks!
+Nastypsychoboy
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Looks like I have to do some chasing and removal of the back plate and install a new one as the new dimmer switch won't fit and stands proud.
That's a big problem with some dimmers, but you can buy spacers like this- bit.ly/2fQnREh
It is possible that i didn't replace the light switch correctly and that there is a dangerous amount of current following to the screws. I Tried all the other light switches with the neon tester and it didn't light up. The broken light switch was an MK 5 Amp X, 250 V, A C Only. I switched it with a 10 Amp light switch i bought from argos, i think the mannufacturer is called "Living". Could the problem be that? Thank you for your prompt answers.
I have a double switch as you have here BUT my unit has NO screws to wall and just pins to hold into original switch base.
Will my new switch (double switch polished chrome) fit into the original base OK?
The base is about 20 years old and one switch broke.
I'm not sure, sorry.
I have seen screwless face plates, but normally the switch part is screwed to a regular back box, then a cover plate fits over the switch.
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for response, yes that is what I have BUT I have taken your advice and have a Sparks coming to have a look. Appreciated.
Do you think light fittinfs.that use.g4 lightbulbs are suitable for.use in bedrooms?
I replaced a broken 1 gang 1 way switch with a 1 gang 2 way switch and when i finished connecting the wires and putting the case back onto the wall, i turned the power back on. The light worked fine but when i put the tester onto the two screws on the front of the switch, the tester showed there was a current passing through. Do you have any idea why that might be?
Thanks for your video.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I'm trying to change one of the old switches in my house but the existing link wire goes from COM to L1 where it joins another Live in L1. I am confused as the link wire is from COM to COM here yet the light still works.
It does not matter in most cases.
These videos might help to explain it better-
How a light switch works- th-cam.com/video/h7qPuhxOyqw/w-d-xo.html
UK light wiring circuits- th-cam.com/video/DoVSdqeFkhE/w-d-xo.html&t
@@ultimatehandyman Hey thanks for all the useful advice! So good of you to make the effort :)
i am chaning a light.swith in my house. it is currenly a white plastic one. the new one i hav picked is also white plastic but has a rating of 10A. is this ok as i dont know rating of the current switch?
hi, ive the same switch but a 3 gang light swich with 3 coms at top and 3 live 1 and 3 live 2 but the old face plate has only 2 coms at the top any ideas on how the do this ? thank you
Trying to find how to turn a single way light switch into a double light switch for two separate lights, does this switch what you were changing work for two separate lights?
It's not always easy, it depends how your lighting circuit is wired. This video explains that-
th-cam.com/video/DoVSdqeFkhE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Is there any way to use an existing light switch and fit a double socket beneath it using the switch wiring ?. Thanks.
+serberious No, I'm afraid that is not possible for a couple of reasons. There is not normally a Neutral wire at the light switch, also the lighting cable is not designed for such loads, so the cable would not be suitable to carry the current required for a socket.
***** Thanks for your time,I appreciate it.
+serberious
You are welcome ;-)
Hi. Can I just check that the bare copper wire that you are adding is screwed to the same screw as the original earth wire on the back box? My screen is a little dark and I can't see it clearly enough to be definite and obviously I want to get it right when I install my metal switch/faceplate. Also, is the copper wire any particular size/thickness? Many thanks :) Thanks for the great video!
Yes, the earth wire is connected between the backbox and the earthing terminal on the switch.
Normally you need a piece of wire that is the same size or thicker than the CPC of the cable.
I'd get a piece of 1.5mm green and yellow wire as I think that is the thinnest that you can buy, unless you make a piece yourself from a bare wire and some green and yellow sleeving.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much for your answer, it's much appreciated. Keep up the good work on your channel :)
You are welcome ;-)
I just fitted a single light switch. it has 2 wires going into the com and a single wire to the L1.
I mimicd the wires putting on a new switch exactly the same way as the old.
my question is if I had loose wires how slow and and fast would I know there's a bad connection and if there was a bad connection will the trip switch go off ? thanks.
It's always best to try to pull the wires out using a finger and thumb before switching the electric back on.
Loose wires can cause sparking and lead to fires.
Thanks for the video. Im trying to change a switch in my kitchen. the wiring is as follows. 2 Red wires 2 Black wires and 2 earth wires. Im guessing it has live coming to the switch from the CU and then going to the light itself. On my new switch there is a Com L1 and L2 terminals. How would i wire this? am i right in thinking the red live coming from the CU goes to the com terminal then the red live going to the light itself goes to the L1 and I Join the 2 black neutrals together and not put them in any terminal on the switch? any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
You are welcome.
It sounds nearly right providing the loop in is at the switch and someone has not previously wired up two lights or similar.
The two neutrals (black wires) need terminating into a terminal block though, not into a switch terminal.
Example here using harmonised colours- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/light_switch_1.jpg
please ensure the earth wires are also connected to the earth terminal.
cheers will try this tomorrow
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Hi there,
I'm trying to replace my light switches, but keep finding that the old switches aren't labelled.
For example, I opened up one and saw two red wires going into the back of the old switch, but there was no COM or L1 label on the old switch. Does it matter where the red wires go in the back of my new switch?
Thanks!
+Nathan Hilton If there are only two wires connected it does not matter which way around they go.Thanks for the comment ;-)
ellloooo, just had 2 mains powered smoke alarms fitted only problem is the back up battery light up my gu10 spot light bulbs, He wired them into the lighting circuit and now even if I turn the mains off the gu10s stay slightly lit. feedback from the batteries 2 x 9v is 18v powering 6 x 4w bulbs
It might not be feedback from the batteries. The new wiring to the alarms might be close to another cable that is creating induced current to illuminate the low wattage lamps. I recently changed some tungsten filament lamps for LED lamps here and they stay dimly lit even when off. My smoke alarms are all completely battery run so they are not connected to any circuit. I seriously doubt the alarm batteries will be feeding back.
thanks for the reply, when I take the front off both the smoke alarms the gu10s go out hence me thinking its the batteries back feeding. If I only take 1 smoke alarm off they dim abit both off light off. strange 1
JON1201ROTH
You are welcome. I guess the best idea is to keep an eye on how long the batteries last in the smoke alarms, they normally last for years!
Sorted it cheers. It was the smoke alarms. he wired them up again today into another circuit.
Hi, I notice at 5:01 you said when your fitting a metal one you will need to earth it. I have a plastic one with no erathing terminal. So what would I do in that situation, just put some sleeve on the earth wire and leave it?
+Richy Rich
I have done that in the past, but apparently you are supposed to just put some earth sleeving on it and then terminate it into a terminal (just cut a single terminal from a strip of terminal connectors)
This was really helpful, thanks!
Hi, is the link wire used for splitting the active to the two switches? Thanks.
Thanks a lot for the video!
great video and this bit I get now, my question is a leeeetle more technical....
An existing 3 gang switch opposite the single gang switch I am replacing with a PIR motion detector/switch turns on and the same light on one of the three switches behind it... This means that there is a wire in COM, L1 and L2.... the PIR only has a COM and L1 terminal.... am I correct in assuming the wire I need is indeed in L1 currently and L2 is the connection between this single gang switch and the 3 gang directly behind? If this is the case can we safely leave the L2 wire loose in the socket (its plastic not metal) or put it in L1s port on the PIR as well??
Sorry, I'm out at the moment and can't grasp what you are asking. Please ask in the electrical forum ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/electric-forum-uk-f3.html
and give as much information as possible, preferably with pictures and hopefully one of the sparks will help ;-)
Hi, on the earthing cable to the face plate, does the order need to go 3core Earth > face plate > earth terminal? Or can it go as you've done there with the copper wire added from terminal to faceplate? Somehow doesn't seem there is a 'loop' with your method?
+runandjump13
I don't think it matters as long as they are all connected together.
The one we're taking off has 2 blue and 2 yellow wires . The new light switch has places for only 3 wires. Which do we leave out?
It sounds like you might have an intermediate switch, which will need replacing with another intermediate switch-
th-cam.com/video/SUlt4ouCYPU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for getting back to me.
Hi, just a quick question - what is the link wire between the two coms for? And will this link wire always be there in all typical light switch installations? Many thanks.
The link wire provides the other light with power.
Not all two gang switches have a link wire, it depends on how the electrician has wired them ;-)
Good Video. Thanks
Can you take out an ordinary light switch and replace with a dimmer?
In most cases you can but you have to check that the dimmer can handle the load (in watts) and also that the lamps are dimmable (some are not).
I'm trying to replace a intermediate light switch and its labeled TOP TOP at the top and then MG717 and 2 at the bottom, what is mg717?
mattfox14
I have no idea what MG717 is, sorry.
Normally in the UK the terminals are marked up L1 L1 & L2 L2
Very helpful thanks
+David Ryder
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
How do I make the earth wire like in your video as I am going from plastic to a metal plate for my light switch? But I did not see properly how you made the extra earth wire for the metal plate..
+Mskerryanne
I made it from a scrap piece of cable, but you can buy earthing wire at most electrical shops.
+Ultimate Handyman how do you apply the wire and where exactly do you put it.? Please
+Mskerryanne
You put the circuit earth wire, which should be sheathed with green and yellow sleeving into the earthing terminal of the back box. You then connect the secondary earth wire to that same terminal in the back box and then connect the other end of that wire into the earthing terminal on the switch, again if you are using bare wire it needs to be sheathed with green and yellow sleeving (or just use a piece of dedicated earth wire)
Hi you have 3 wires in the wall I have 4 why would this be ???
Difficult to say, sometimes there are just two wires, sometimes there can be several wires 👍
I unscrewed the black boxes, housing wires, instead of wires....now some metal parts are floating, no idea how to set them up:D
😱
@@ultimatehandyman Managed to assemble the puzzle, wasn't clear at first sight and just took a best guess how it should be:D And screwed it back on the wall....biggest motivation was thinking of telling my wife that I won't be able to screw the light in the kitchen back, and that we either will need to get a new switch or call electrician.....sat there with those small pieces of stuff like there's no tomorrow otherwise:)))
Made the mistake of not landing and now have two lights working off one switch and can’t figure out how to fix it
You could ask here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewforum.php?f=33
if you wired a light circuit and you wired it wrong, will it go BANG or just not work ??
It depends. If there is just a live and switched live if you wire it wrong it won't work correctly. Some light switches have the loop at the light switch, if you get this mixed up incorrectly or you mix up the earth with the lives it will bang (probably at the consumer unit)
oh right ok thanks a lot
What about a three way switch lightings which has two com
Just mark up all the wires before you remove them, then put them in the exact same terminals on the new switch.
What is that test screwdriver used here? Sorry, I havent a clue about things like this! Where can I get it in UK and does it have a specific name?
This is the one that I used- fave.co/1PixW7P
Thanks for the comment
I wish to fit a new switch with a red warning light can you help me to do that please
It's pretty much the same as in this video but you have to ensure you get the correct rated switch and it's critical that you isolate it and ensure it is dead before swapping it over for the new switch.
Another great demo! I have a single light switch thats been fitted by previous owner smack bang middle of a wall that I dont really use and also because of the position, looks ridiculous! LOL How can i remove this and also fill in the hole afterwards?
+jaybeth69 You would have to disconnect the cable at it's source (probably at the light's ceiling rose), then remove the cable and the switch.Then it depends what the wall is made from on how you go about tilling the hole?
+Ultimate Handyman also I will be papering over the old switch and not tiling
+Ultimate Handyman would i still be able to control the porch light from the other switch thats in the porch?
+jaybeth69
Sorry, that should say filling not tilling.
+jaybeth69
I can't say without being there as I don't know how your house is wired, sorry!
i'm changing an old 2 way light switch for a new one, only trouble is the old switch has 2 banks with 2 holes at the top and 2 at the bottom, the new switch has 2 at the top and one at the bottom on one bank and the reverse on the other bank and unlike your switch has an extra black wire............help!!!!
This should make it clearer- th-cam.com/video/h7qPuhxOyqw/w-d-xo.html
And perhaps this - th-cam.com/video/n52fvF2G0ys/w-d-xo.html
thanks ultimate ..........good explanation.....even i could understand it lol
Good stuff ;-)
good video thanks
+Rob Goodwin
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I have a single light switch that controls 2 lights in my living room, but I want to put a switch in that controls them individually, I. e: double switch. Any vids, ideas or comments will be of great help. Thanks
+Monty Ali
It would involve running a new cable to one of the lights, so it's not an easy job I'm afraid!
+Ultimate Handyman
Thanks so much for the quick reply. Very much appreciated.
+Monty Ali
You are welcome ;-)
Thank you so much
You are welcome