Thank you for this video, your step by step guide made adding an additional light switch in the garage into a simple task, a lot easier to understand then the enclosed written instructions with the light switch. Your videos are appreciated so much, thank you.
I know one thing was watching all your videos and your good advice I've replaced every single light in my house with LED I never had the confidence once but I do now. Thank 😊 🙏
Your videos are an absolute lifesaver, our lounge was clearly wired up for two way lighting (two points of entry) but for whatever reason the old owner only had one switch. There are guides on Google images that show the live wires going into COM which i tried first and no surprise, nothing happened. Came back to your video which I also watched when changing a ceiling light and voila - two working switches.
It would have been nice if u explained via maybe a switch diagram how the current flows through the switches and is subsequent turned on or off by each switch it would give people a better grasp of what exactly is happening in two way switching that said it was still a great tutorial
Been a licensed electrical contractor here in the US since the 80's, I wish our outlets were designed with the splicing terminal blocks like you guys use. We're still stuck with wire nuts or other splicing connectors that take up much more box space. I find it interesting you guys use the term "neutral" for the grounded phase conductor because there's no split phase power in your country, only single phase 240V. In the US we use split single phase power that actually has a neutral in the middle between the two 240V phase conductors to provide 120V power as well. To reduce the lethality of electrical shock, we in the US use 120V for general lighting, wall receptacles, and small appliances while reserving the 240V power for major appliances like stoves, water heater, air conditioning, and so on. When you ground one side of a single phase power(like you guys do), we in the US call that unbalanced grounding system. When you ground the middle conductor of a split single phase power (like we do here in the US), we call that a balanced grounding system. Noticed you guys incorporate switches with your receptacles. We don't do that here in the US because it's redundant since everything you'll be plugging in has it's own power switch.
@@TheDIYGuy1 I forgot to mention that since it's the middle conductor of the split phase power that's grounded as used in the US, the voltage to ground from any of the two 240V phase conductors is cut in half (120V), again reducing the lethality by electrical shock from the 240V phase conductors.
Another great video. You make electrics seem so easy! One request...could we have a quick wiring diagram at the end that we could screenshot and refer back to? 😉
Run hot to the pole of one switch, hot from the pole of the second switch to the load. Connect the other side oif the load to neutral. Connect one leg of each switch to one leg of the other. Connect the remaining switch legs. How you route the conductors depends on the conduit or cable routing. If there is power and neutral at the load, you could run a 3-conductor from it to each switch and spice everything at the load.
my problem is putting a new switch on an old curcuit where the back is brown and old to a new modern day switch that is grey, i put the wires in the same holes com l1 l2 exetra but the light went all dicky any ideas?
Hi Mate. Thanks for your video. How to connect dimmer switch? Ceiling lights and wall lights on one switch but every time I connected it. All lights turn on. Not separately.
I have a single light switch in upstairs hall, I also have a light in my loft that I plus into a mains socket when needed, so I would like to change the single light switch for a double so I can connect the light in the loft, is this a straight forward easy task? Thanks.
Intermediate is very easy. it would be in between the 2 switches with the same cable 3 core. you have 4 points for where to terminate. 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. pretty much you have 2 L1's and 2 L2's. connect the incoming brow into L1 at the top and the incoming Grey in L2 at the top. then with your wire coming out Connect the brown into L1 at the bottom and Grey into L2 at the bottom. the common you need to connect in the back via a wago and same with you earths. dont forget to earth and metal fittings. Hope this helps
Brilliant...quick question..... If you are wiring in a 2 way switched section of down lights that are only a part of the main lighting ring in a kitchen ( so no individual cieling rose) do you treat each zone of lights as a separate "room" and run your twin and earth from the consumer board to your first light or does the twin and earth carrying the live terminate at the switches? So in my case I have 6 external downlights in a soffit that will have an external PIR and an internal switch. So do I 3 core and earth from internal switch 1 to PIR and then 2 core and earth from PIR to downlight 1 and then daisy chain the downlights together...and if so does the live feed going from consumer board go to the internal switch or to the first downlight? In the kitchen there will be 5 different lighting zones all independently 2 way switched.....I won't be connecting up..sparky will do that... But I need to run the cables to fit soffit and need to know where the cables need to run. We are still waiting to instruct a sparky as they are all taking an age to get prices together ......thanks.
Like others say, your vids are about as simple as one can make. I know that there are 2 types of wire for lighting 1.5mm & 1. mm but I don't know which type to use in a given situation so I always use 1.5mm as that is more heavy duty. Is there a use for 1 mm? Loving the vids 👍👍👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 Cheers for that👍 I was curious to know if say, 1mm (16amp) was the norm for domestic supply or 1.5mm(19amo). Have looked around and the consensus is that 1mm is the norm. 👍👍
1.00 mm is easier to install, particularly when installing into single switch boxes and small light fittings. The load capacity (approx 14 Amps) is far in excess of the typical 6A breaker used for light circuits in most installations so for me it is my preferred cable size for light circuits. Note: Just to cover myself, load capacity could be reduced if the cable is installed where it's buried in plaster or insulation due to the temperature limitation, but even so is still likely to be suitable for 6A.
You can buy twin brown + cpc twin and earth cable,it would be good electrical practice to do so but contractors are too lazy to buy a small reel of this type of cable
Can you do a video where the other switch turns a different bulb(s) on In the same room like for separate down lights so you dont need the main light on please
Hey buddy. Got a Question for you. I'm decorating jst now & I'm taking an old 2way plastic light switch off & replacing wth a 2way metal switch plate. The old one has yellow wiring going into L1 & L2, White wire going into the Common. Do I connect new metal switch plate exactly the same way?. Theres 2 earth wires in bk box. Do I take 1 of those earths out & fit it to new metal S plate earth terminal & leave 1 in bk box?? Liked & Subscribed 👍
Even the basic ceiling rose gets people. Years ago I got a call from a friend of mine asking for help with some light fittings. he's a tiler and had a job on tiling a kitchen, he did a good job etc but the client asked if he knew anyone or could change some light fittings and he thought how hard could it be. Anyway he wired all the reds into live and and Al the blacks in the neutral so the light was permanently on. When I got there I Had to do some continuity checks to find th switch wire which puzzled my friend since I asked him to flick the switch "but the power is off" 10 mins later after double checking all is good and the fittings were back up working perfectly. The client knew nothing of this it was all done before she returned from work
Still trying to understand how to fit a 2-way smart light switch (The 'no neutral' kind) The manufacturers diagram says... Switch 1 (LB terminal) To light Then both switches have an LB1 and LB2 terminal, which are connected in parallel. LB1-->LB1 and LB2-->LB2 But switchbox 2 doesn't have a 'switched live to light' connection... so, I'm guessing this is extended from Switchbox1 over the 3+E(Grey) as per the video. Thing is, Switch1 doesn't actually USE the 'switched live' wire (according to manufacturer diagram) ... so, I'm guessing I should use a separate terminal block to join SwitchedLive --to--> Grey and bring it across to Switch 2. So, following this through in my mind... So now the 3+E(Grey) is bringing Switched Live from the main box to the slave box. Slap a brown sleeve on it. 3+E(Brown) is unconnected 3+E(Black) is unconnected And the 3+E(Earth) is chaining up all the earths as normal So, now I have Brown and Black spare in the 3+E... but I worry that it's maybe 'wrong' to use these for connecting LB1->LB1 and LB2->LB2. The LB1 and LB2 links between the switches are both switched lives I suppose, so do I connect those up with the remaining Brown and Black, and just slip brown sleeves on them both... at both sides? Does this sound like a sane plan? Or do I need to be smacked across the head and have my screwdriver confiscated ; ) Then, I guess it's just a case of finishing off by putting the supplied bypass capacitor in parallel with the light itself (as per the switches 'no neutral' instructions) and this will help keep some trickle current to keep the smart switches powered - as per my 1-way 2-gang 'no neutral' install (which works great) I might pop a laminated wiring diagram in behind the faceplate, just to avoid any later confusion. Or is that frowned on.
Yeah good vid a tip from a spark when wiring a loop in loop out system mark your feed&neutral on the grey insulation with an x your switch wire with a line across your switch so your feeds are x your switch are marked- then when stripping your switch wire whether it's blue or black bed your switch wire in to a s shape so u know that's your switch wire be fore putting your brown sleeving just how I was taught as a lad👍
Hi I've got a 3 gang light switch 2 work the upstairs and downstairs the 3rd goes to an outside light I've put a timer on it Timeguard ZV700B Automatic Digital Security 7 Day Light Switch Timer Switch on it but it doesn't light up I'm sure I've put the wires back the same way any thoughts please thank you
I'm still flummoxed but I'm reconnecting a 3 gang switch, x2 one way downstairs lights and a two way upstairs light. The downstairs lights work fine but the upstairs light only works from the downstairs switch, I haven't even messed with the upstairs switch.
Your videos are very educational for apprentices and DIY electrics that so many people need educational videos on because I've seen some really bad DIY jobs! I started off in the deep end of electrics at a dodgy factory doing 3 phase well mad to do 3 phase has a kid but I'm lucky because for some reason I understand electrics and love how advanced electronics and electrical equipment has advanced today and lucky no one died from any of my DIY jobs! I can see your passion for electrics, thank you 😊 love what you do!
My existing light switch is a different type. It controls an LED fluorescent tube in my garage. One brown wire into L1. One brown wire into com. Two blue wires into N loop ... Help!
As an electrical engineer of 40 years experience, I am impressed with the way and the terminology used to explain how the 2 way lighting system works. Only one criticism, is that you forgot to mention the “ strappers form the switching link between the 2 switches . But apart from that 👏👏👏WELL DONE
Afternoon great video but I want to go from 2 switch room to a 1 switch room as we’ve had one door way bricked up. I’ve put a blank faceplate on and taped off the cables but now the main light switch won’t turn the lights on. 🤦🏼♂️
Just came across your TH-cam channel and your video showing the wiring layout is the same as mine but instead of com at the top it's L1 and L2 and 3 below. I have the BG electrical evolve single touch dimmer switch and on the back are, a symbol with a wavy line with an arrow through it, s.link and L connections. My question is does the black wire brown sleeve go into wavy line symbol, the grey wire brown sleeve and blue wire into s.link and 2 brown wires into L?
Mr DIY, I'm trying to add a 2 way switch but it's not working. Can I send you 2 photos of my work please and get your advice Excellent videos by the way
Nice guide to the wiring thanks. But I was really looking to understand how the circuit is actually working and this didn’t really explain anything. It would be great if the vid actually explained the flow of power through the circuit.
What about a 3 button switch for outside lights, controling button 1 for flood light, button 2 controls 12v led 5m strip light and button 3 controls 12v lights in the garden? How do I wire it?
Thanks for the video, this makes perfect sense, however I’ve got 2 light switches in my living room that control the centre rose and both switches only have 3 wires 🤔. I can’t remember whether it’s ever worked, but basically you can switch it on with the first switch, then off or on with the second switch. But to use that second switch, the first has to be in the on position! Likewise if the 2nd switch is in its off position, the first won’t work! No wire markings so I don’t know what is what and it’s not so easy to reach the rose and switches with a multimeter. Am baffled.
Can you wire an outside light from an inside light switch? as there is no seperate power source, only an existing room light switch. Do you still require a 5A fused switch?
I understand the concept.. I am looking to get rid of one switch.. my set up is that I have the brown wire going into comm. and the L1 is the black wire.. there are several browns connected together and blues connected together.. can I connect brown and blue to the others and leave the black unconnected and capped?
Another great video, thank you. Your electrical videos are the best on TH-cam, you explain things very clearly and I learn so much from you. Really good to see your channel growing as well - keep up the great work 👍🏻👍🏻
Youd need an electrician to this job in an older house ? I have a situation like this switch on the top of the stair well and a switch at the bottom but the are not wired for two way unless you run the cable out side the wall between the switches which would look unsightly .
Thank you for the wiring breakdown. I'm soon to be tackling breaking down a twin switch at the bottom of my stairway; it has a 3 way and a 2 way switch (3 way for the stairwell and 2 way for the hallway). I'm wanting to split off the 3 way to its own switch and the 2 way to be converted to a single 1 way switch so I can put a smart switch in its place, then disable the 2nd 2 way switch for the hallway since it's never used.
I live in a new build property and the garage is like an extra socket on the downstairs socket ring. I have a 13 amp socket in the house that goes direct to the garage to feed power and lighting. The garage recieves power from this in another fused socket (the light switch) which is 5 amp. This then has 3 wires earth, neutral & live. The garage is about 18 meters long and ideally I would like to have a switch at each end but unfortunately I can't follow this guide as I don't have 4 wires. Any help would be appreciated, maybe your next video?
Good information mate thanks. Goes over my head a bit like. I've got a 4 gang old switch in the hallway of this old house operating 4 lights. 2 in the hall and landing and 2 in the reception room and front room. I'm after swapping it for a 2 gang switch operating the landing and hall alone and adding a single switch to each downstairs room which have no switch at all. Just wondering if I can do this running from the existing wiring? 2 red 2 black and 2 grey wires running into the 4 gang. At the moment I've just stood looking at it when I walk past now and again!!
Well said, so many channels insist on heavy rock music playing whilst trying to give instructions…. I just don’t get that 🤔. Your videos are simply superb 👍
Excellent video. However, I’d like to have a 2-way switch on three ballasted strip picture lights. I believe that you can’t run these in series. So my question is: In place of the dangley flex light, can I run a three core flex to a junction box, then wire the three picture lights in parallel (star) to that junction box? Cheers
Our wiring is old. The upstairs hallway switch has two separate wires coming in. One wire has only two cores/conductors connected, earth and live. The other wire has all three connected.
Thanks for good video.Well explained.There is a flaw with looping supply in ceiling roses to chain all lights.Imagine there is a fault and lights are flickering in some rooms.You'd have do go through all roses to check all connections not knowing how place has been wired up. For me every room should have individual cable supplying lights.Obviously this would involve opening consumer unit and checking connections there.Which for me would be faster. Also if someone without electrical knowledge opens up light switches or roses and by mistake removes sleeves while disconnecting some cores it will consuse everyboidy after trying to fix whole wiring. For me cables labeling is something should be as standard.
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Thank you for this video, your step by step guide made adding an additional light switch in the garage into a simple task, a lot easier to understand then the enclosed written instructions with the light switch. Your videos are appreciated so much, thank you.
Wiring works, but I'd like to know what everything is doing.
I know one thing was watching all your videos and your good advice I've replaced every single light in my house with LED I never had the confidence once but I do now. Thank 😊 🙏
That is awesome!
Love you my bro, you explain things like a legend! 💪❤️ #bestie #grateful #legend
This is a really excellent explanation and showing the right things, by far the best video of 2 way switches I've seen, thank you.
Glad it helped!
Your videos are an absolute lifesaver, our lounge was clearly wired up for two way lighting (two points of entry) but for whatever reason the old owner only had one switch.
There are guides on Google images that show the live wires going into COM which i tried first and no surprise, nothing happened.
Came back to your video which I also watched when changing a ceiling light and voila - two working switches.
It would have been nice if u explained via maybe a switch diagram how the current flows through the switches and is subsequent turned on or off by each switch it would give people a better grasp of what exactly is happening in two way switching that said it was still a great tutorial
Amazing - very simple to follow. I’ve been waiting to do this job in our house and now it’s done 🎉
Wonderful!
Do lot of time but Very nice and easy way you explan us every one can do it , thanks
thank u so much for ur informative vidios it helped me alot,
Excellent explanation. Best video on this subject. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Been a licensed electrical contractor here in the US since the 80's, I wish our outlets were designed with the splicing terminal blocks like you guys use. We're still stuck with wire nuts or other splicing connectors that take up much more box space.
I find it interesting you guys use the term "neutral" for the grounded phase conductor because there's no split phase power in your country, only single phase 240V. In the US we use split single phase power that actually has a neutral in the middle between the two 240V phase conductors to provide 120V power as well. To reduce the lethality of electrical shock, we in the US use 120V for general lighting, wall receptacles, and small appliances while reserving the 240V power for major appliances like stoves, water heater, air conditioning, and so on.
When you ground one side of a single phase power(like you guys do), we in the US call that unbalanced grounding system. When you ground the middle conductor of a split single phase power (like we do here in the US), we call that a balanced grounding system.
Noticed you guys incorporate switches with your receptacles. We don't do that here in the US because it's redundant since everything you'll be plugging in has it's own power switch.
Pretty interesting to hear
@@TheDIYGuy1 I forgot to mention that since it's the middle conductor of the split phase power that's grounded as used in the US, the voltage to ground from any of the two 240V phase conductors is cut in half (120V), again reducing the lethality by electrical shock from the 240V phase conductors.
Great video, really helpful and well explained. Thank you!
Brilliant video. Easy to follow well explained
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial, everything very well explained.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
We live and learn!! Many Thanks
Thanks very much 🙌
That was a very good explanation! Love your videos!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliantly easy to follow thanks
Glad it helped
Another great video.
You make electrics seem so easy!
One request...could we have a quick wiring diagram at the end that we could screenshot and refer back to? 😉
Thanks for the feedback :)
Run hot to the pole of one switch, hot from the pole of the second switch to the load. Connect the other side oif the load to neutral. Connect one leg of each switch to one leg of the other. Connect the remaining switch legs. How you route the conductors depends on the conduit or cable routing. If there is power and neutral at the load, you could run a 3-conductor from it to each switch and spice everything at the load.
Really good video sir.
Thankyou, very informative.
You are welcome!
Great Video, really helped me out thanks very much 👍
Your welcome 👍
Excellent as usual
Thanks
Ive subscribed to your channel..amazing..thanks for the knowledge
Thanks very good explanation
You are welcome
Top stuff mate. Very handy.
Thanks 👍
Love it
Great video. Wish you taken one step further so 2 x 2 gang (hall and landing)
my problem is putting a new switch on an old curcuit where the back is brown and old to a new modern day switch that is grey, i put the wires in the same holes com l1 l2 exetra but the light went all dicky any ideas?
Really helpful and simple
Thanks 👍
Very informative 👏 👌 great video mate 👍
Thanks a lot 👍
A great tutorial thanks
Thanks 👍
Got to admit your explanation has saved my brain from a lot of stress wiring old 50 plus conduit thanks for your time and making it easy
Hi Mate.
Thanks for your video. How to connect dimmer switch? Ceiling lights and wall lights on one switch but every time I connected it. All lights turn on. Not separately.
I have a single light switch in upstairs hall, I also have a light in my loft that I plus into a mains socket when needed, so I would like to change the single light switch for a double so I can connect the light in the loft, is this a straight forward easy task? Thanks.
How do you know which is the loop in from previous room/consumer unit?
Tara mate , gaffaa’s fav sparky
realy good channel and i have looked at several how tos. i dont have com on the back of my three gang switch. what terminal do i use as com. help
Only just found your channel but glad I did. Could you do a video explaining intermediate switches please?
I'll see what I can do 🙂
Intermediate is very easy. it would be in between the 2 switches with the same cable 3 core. you have 4 points for where to terminate. 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. pretty much you have 2 L1's and 2 L2's. connect the incoming brow into L1 at the top and the incoming Grey in L2 at the top. then with your wire coming out Connect the brown into L1 at the bottom and Grey into L2 at the bottom. the common you need to connect in the back via a wago and same with you earths. dont forget to earth and metal fittings. Hope this helps
Hi I want to add a toggle on/ off switch to an outdoor wall lantern to use indoors. ? is it possible ?
Brilliant...quick question..... If you are wiring in a 2 way switched section of down lights that are only a part of the main lighting ring in a kitchen ( so no individual cieling rose) do you treat each zone of lights as a separate "room" and run your twin and earth from the consumer board to your first light or does the twin and earth carrying the live terminate at the switches? So in my case I have 6 external downlights in a soffit that will have an external PIR and an internal switch. So do I 3 core and earth from internal switch 1 to PIR and then 2 core and earth from PIR to downlight 1 and then daisy chain the downlights together...and if so does the live feed going from consumer board go to the internal switch or to the first downlight? In the kitchen there will be 5 different lighting zones all independently 2 way switched.....I won't be connecting up..sparky will do that... But I need to run the cables to fit soffit and need to know where the cables need to run. We are still waiting to instruct a sparky as they are all taking an age to get prices together ......thanks.
Like others say, your vids are about as simple as one can make.
I know that there are 2 types of wire for lighting 1.5mm & 1. mm but I don't know which type to use in a given situation so I always use 1.5mm as that is more heavy duty.
Is there a use for 1 mm?
Loving the vids 👍👍👍
That's what this channel is about. 1mm is fine for most lighting applications.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Cheers for that👍
I was curious to know if say, 1mm (16amp) was the norm for domestic supply or 1.5mm(19amo).
Have looked around and the consensus is that 1mm is the norm.
👍👍
1.00 mm is easier to install, particularly when installing into single switch boxes and small light fittings. The load capacity (approx 14 Amps) is far in excess of the typical 6A breaker used for light circuits in most installations so for me it is my preferred cable size for light circuits. Note: Just to cover myself, load capacity could be reduced if the cable is installed where it's buried in plaster or insulation due to the temperature limitation, but even so is still likely to be suitable for 6A.
Brilliant!
👍
You can buy twin brown + cpc twin and earth cable,it would be good electrical practice to do so but contractors are too lazy to buy a small reel of this type of cable
i would suggest to have a neutral wire on your switch. nowadays most of the smart switches needs neutral wire for their wifi to work
Legend!
Thanks man 👍
Absolutely brilliant tutorial 👏 Thank you so much. Keep up the good work. Look forward to seeing more of the tutorials.
Can you do a video where the other switch turns a different bulb(s) on In the same room like for separate down lights so you dont need the main light on please
Good suggestion thanks
Great video cheers.... is it better to use 1.5mm or 1mm 3 core and earth for second switchs
Hey buddy. Got a Question for you.
I'm decorating jst now & I'm taking an old 2way plastic light switch off & replacing wth a 2way metal switch plate. The old one has yellow wiring going into L1 & L2, White wire going into the Common. Do I connect new metal switch plate exactly the same way?. Theres 2 earth wires in bk box. Do I take 1 of those earths out & fit it to new metal S plate earth terminal & leave 1 in bk box??
Liked & Subscribed 👍
In America we call it a 3 way....
Even the basic ceiling rose gets people.
Years ago I got a call from a friend of mine asking for help with some light fittings. he's a tiler and had a job on tiling a kitchen, he did a good job etc but the client asked if he knew anyone or could change some light fittings and he thought how hard could it be. Anyway he wired all the reds into live and and Al the blacks in the neutral so the light was permanently on.
When I got there I Had to do some continuity checks to find th switch wire which puzzled my friend since I asked him to flick the switch "but the power is off" 10 mins later after double checking all is good and the fittings were back up working perfectly.
The client knew nothing of this it was all done before she returned from work
🙈
Still trying to understand how to fit a 2-way smart light switch (The 'no neutral' kind)
The manufacturers diagram says...
Switch 1 (LB terminal) To light
Then both switches have an LB1 and LB2 terminal, which are connected in parallel. LB1-->LB1 and LB2-->LB2
But switchbox 2 doesn't have a 'switched live to light' connection... so, I'm guessing this is extended from Switchbox1 over the 3+E(Grey) as per the video.
Thing is, Switch1 doesn't actually USE the 'switched live' wire (according to manufacturer diagram) ... so, I'm guessing I should use a separate terminal block to join SwitchedLive --to--> Grey and bring it across to Switch 2.
So, following this through in my mind...
So now the 3+E(Grey) is bringing Switched Live from the main box to the slave box. Slap a brown sleeve on it.
3+E(Brown) is unconnected
3+E(Black) is unconnected
And the 3+E(Earth) is chaining up all the earths as normal
So, now I have Brown and Black spare in the 3+E... but I worry that it's maybe 'wrong' to use these for connecting LB1->LB1 and LB2->LB2. The LB1 and LB2 links between the switches are both switched lives I suppose, so do I connect those up with the remaining Brown and Black, and just slip brown sleeves on them both... at both sides?
Does this sound like a sane plan? Or do I need to be smacked across the head and have my screwdriver confiscated ; )
Then, I guess it's just a case of finishing off by putting the supplied bypass capacitor in parallel with the light itself (as per the switches 'no neutral' instructions) and this will help keep some trickle current to keep the smart switches powered - as per my 1-way 2-gang 'no neutral' install (which works great)
I might pop a laminated wiring diagram in behind the faceplate, just to avoid any later confusion. Or is that frowned on.
Any chance you can show how to fit an extractor fan in a bathroom?
See what I can do for you
👍 many 👍
finally ... thanks
Literally a few days ago I was searching for a good guide on this. Wery well explained. Thanks.
Your very welcome. It maybe a few days late but I hope it helped 🙂
Always been able to figure this out somehow but without REALLY understanding it… kinda just ‘getting’ it haha… but now I actually understand it!
👍 perfect
Yeah good vid a tip from a spark when wiring a loop in loop out system mark your feed&neutral on the grey insulation with an x your switch wire with a line across your switch so your feeds are x your switch are marked- then when stripping your switch wire whether it's blue or black bed your switch wire in to a s shape so u know that's your switch wire be fore putting your brown sleeving just how I was taught as a lad👍
Superb. Thanks mate. Need another switch at the front of my garage. You’ve answered a lot of questions.
How about a video on 2 way switching from a celling rose
Hi I've got a 3 gang light switch 2 work the upstairs and downstairs the 3rd goes to an outside light I've put a timer on it Timeguard ZV700B Automatic Digital Security 7 Day Light Switch Timer Switch on it but it doesn't light up I'm sure I've put the wires back the same way any thoughts please thank you
I'm still flummoxed but I'm reconnecting a 3 gang switch, x2 one way downstairs lights and a two way upstairs light. The downstairs lights work fine but the upstairs light only works from the downstairs switch, I haven't even messed with the upstairs switch.
Your videos are very educational for apprentices and DIY electrics that so many people need educational videos on because I've seen some really bad DIY jobs! I started off in the deep end of electrics at a dodgy factory doing 3 phase well mad to do 3 phase has a kid but I'm lucky because for some reason I understand electrics and love how advanced electronics and electrical equipment has advanced today and lucky no one died from any of my DIY jobs! I can see your passion for electrics, thank you 😊 love what you do!
Thanks a lot 😁
Great video! Thanks for doing this. Could you change the pendant light for a Batton light with the exact same rose and switch system?
My existing light switch is a different type. It controls an LED fluorescent tube in my garage.
One brown wire into L1. One brown wire into com. Two blue wires into N loop ... Help!
As an electrical engineer of 40 years experience, I am impressed with the way and the terminology used to explain how the 2 way lighting system works. Only one criticism, is that you forgot to mention the “ strappers form the switching link between the 2 switches . But apart from that 👏👏👏WELL DONE
Thanks 😊
Afternoon great video but I want to go from 2 switch room to a 1 switch room as we’ve had one door way bricked up. I’ve put a blank faceplate on and taped off the cables but now the main light switch won’t turn the lights on. 🤦🏼♂️
Just came across your TH-cam channel and your video showing the wiring layout is the same as mine but instead of com at the top it's L1 and L2 and 3 below.
I have the BG electrical evolve single touch dimmer switch and on the back are, a symbol with a wavy line with an arrow through it, s.link and L connections. My question is does the black wire brown sleeve go into wavy line symbol, the grey wire brown sleeve and blue wire into s.link and 2 brown wires into L?
Mr DIY, I'm trying to add a 2 way switch but it's not working. Can I send you 2 photos of my work please and get your advice
Excellent videos by the way
My 2 light switch gang shows common, but the lower ones are '1way' and '2 way'. Does that correspond to your L1 and L2, respectively?
We do things different in the US. Also we call what you do in his video, a three way set up.
Interesting, thanks for commenting
Nice guide to the wiring thanks. But I was really looking to understand how the circuit is actually working and this didn’t really explain anything. It would be great if the vid actually explained the flow of power through the circuit.
Hope it helped even a little
What about a 3 button switch for outside lights, controling button 1 for flood light, button 2 controls 12v led 5m strip light and button 3 controls 12v lights in the garden?
How do I wire it?
Thanks for the video, this makes perfect sense, however I’ve got 2 light switches in my living room that control the centre rose and both switches only have 3 wires 🤔. I can’t remember whether it’s ever worked, but basically you can switch it on with the first switch, then off or on with the second switch. But to use that second switch, the first has to be in the on position! Likewise if the 2nd switch is in its off position, the first won’t work! No wire markings so I don’t know what is what and it’s not so easy to reach the rose and switches with a multimeter. Am baffled.
Can you wire an outside light from an inside light switch? as there is no seperate power source, only an existing room light switch. Do you still require a 5A fused switch?
I understand the concept.. I am looking to get rid of one switch.. my set up is that I have the brown wire going into comm. and the L1 is the black wire.. there are several browns connected together and blues connected together.. can I connect brown and blue to the others and leave the black unconnected and capped?
How does that work with double two way switch, top landing double switch bottom landing single switch
Another great video, thank you. Your electrical videos are the best on TH-cam, you explain things very clearly and I learn so much from you. Really good to see your channel growing as well - keep up the great work 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks a lot for the support 👍
Youd need an electrician to this job in an older house ? I have a situation like this switch on the top of the stair well and a switch at the bottom but the are not wired for two way unless you run the cable out side the wall between the switches which would look unsightly .
What do you call the 3core earth that has the grey sleeve on it I can only find standard stuff 2.5T&E
Hello buddy did exactly what you said however it is not letting turn off the lights it turns on but doesnt turn off from the other swtich
Had to watch it a few times, but got there in the end. SO a big THANK YOU 😊 for this video. ( New subscriber)
Thanks for subscribing
Read book and watch film ring of bright water re captive otter released back into wild.
I've been watching this 10 times ... Finally, I understood ...I think 😂😂😂
Can you use a 1.5m and what is the difference between a white twin and earth and a grey one? Cheers
Hello
How to add one more lights
Where can be be turn on by on of two swiches ????
What about if you live in a modern house that has no roses and everything is in the lights switches? There are so many wires behind my lightswitches!
Thank you for the wiring breakdown. I'm soon to be tackling breaking down a twin switch at the bottom of my stairway; it has a 3 way and a 2 way switch (3 way for the stairwell and 2 way for the hallway). I'm wanting to split off the 3 way to its own switch and the 2 way to be converted to a single 1 way switch so I can put a smart switch in its place, then disable the 2nd 2 way switch for the hallway since it's never used.
Your welcome. Good luck with the work 👍
I live in a new build property and the garage is like an extra socket on the downstairs socket ring. I have a 13 amp socket in the house that goes direct to the garage to feed power and lighting. The garage recieves power from this in another fused socket (the light switch) which is 5 amp. This then has 3 wires earth, neutral & live. The garage is about 18 meters long and ideally I would like to have a switch at each end but unfortunately I can't follow this guide as I don't have 4 wires. Any help would be appreciated, maybe your next video?
Thanks I will see what I can do for you
This is way too complicated what happened to the simple 106 switches ?
Do you not need an earth fly lead to connect back to the box as you have a metal face plate?
Good information mate thanks. Goes over my head a bit like. I've got a 4 gang old switch in the hallway of this old house operating 4 lights. 2 in the hall and landing and 2 in the reception room and front room. I'm after swapping it for a 2 gang switch operating the landing and hall alone and adding a single switch to each downstairs room which have no switch at all. Just wondering if I can do this running from the existing wiring? 2 red 2 black and 2 grey wires running into the 4 gang. At the moment I've just stood looking at it when I walk past now and again!!
Your welcome
And a Brilliant video .. easy to follow , explained well
And no heavy rock music or drum and base lol 😂
Thanks 👍
Well said, so many channels insist on heavy rock music playing whilst trying to give instructions…. I just don’t get that 🤔. Your videos are simply superb 👍
Excellent video. However, I’d like to have a 2-way switch on three ballasted strip picture lights.
I believe that you can’t run these in series. So my question is:
In place of the dangley flex light, can I run a three core flex to a junction box, then wire the three picture lights in parallel (star) to that junction box?
Cheers
I can't understand an English accent!@ I wish someone who spoke American English would do these videos.
🤷♂️
Thank you so much
You're most welcome
Great film, well presented/explained, thank you. 👍👍👍
Thanks very much. Glad it was useful
Our wiring is old. The upstairs hallway switch has two separate wires coming in. One wire has only two cores/conductors connected, earth and live. The other wire has all three connected.
👍
Thanks for good video.Well explained.There is a flaw with looping supply in ceiling roses to chain all lights.Imagine there is a fault and lights are flickering in some rooms.You'd have do go through all roses to check all connections not knowing how place has been wired up.
For me every room should have individual cable supplying lights.Obviously this would involve opening consumer unit and checking connections there.Which for me would be faster.
Also if someone without electrical knowledge opens up light switches or roses and by mistake removes sleeves while disconnecting some cores it will consuse everyboidy after trying to fix whole wiring.
For me cables labeling is something should be as standard.