This is an awesome tool. Thank-You for sharing your process. Imma make one myself. Also I see most folks use a brass or aluminum shims between the jaws teeth. I found wrapping a 6 gauge solid copper wire around the barrel and letting the jaws clamp on that to give the best clamping and allow the best pivoting with a lathe spider 🤙
By slitting that DOM tubing you created a hinge, that hinge could be contributing to your runout/wobble. Maybe next time a press fit and moving that slit in further so both sides are supported by the spindle may reduce the runout....just a thought👍
Really like the spider. I'm going to use that clamping idea for an outboard indexing wheel that I made. Regarding the tighter fit: you might want to slit and partially tighten the clamp before machining the final bore size. That way the bore can be made to exact & correct size when the spider is under clamping pressure. I perform the same order of ops when making internal arbors - slit and install screw before machining OD.
Really great idea on making that sleeve for your spider. I made a spider for my Grizzly G4003, but I just drilled and tapped the spindle itself where it extended out the back a bit. It was all rather awkward eyeball and hand work. It works well, although I do have to remove the side cover to clear the spider screws when they are installed. If I was to do it again, I'd definitely copy your work for a more elegant and precise result, as well as the ability to use it with the side cover installed. I may still make one like yours. For a tip on the work you had to go through to make the aluminum-tipped screws - Grizzly sells screws with brass tips already on them. That's what I used. Grizzly part number BE1126
I would recommend swinging your compound the other direction away from the chuck. If you’re holding a large piece the jaws can hit the compound rest. It also gets your hand too close to the chuck if you are using the compound to feed with.
@@Ultimatereloader I figured that was why. If I don't have an inside, outside chamfer tool set up I will run in reverse and chamfer on the back side. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
You could place neodymium magnets around the outside of the hole for the spider, then fabricate a cup that would cover the spider and stick to the magnets. It would be an easy on off safety device. Great vid! 👍🏼
Awesome video. Love the new lathe. Could you have used set screws to hold the spider on the spindle instead of the relief cuts? I have no access to a mill at the moment is why I'm asking.
If your spindle is threaded for a collet closer you can make a spindle that threads into the spindle. Drill a hole for a small set screw to make sure it will stay in place. Try to make the set screw the same mass as the metal removed from drilling the hole for it. This design will get rid of the wobble.
Hi a nice see through plexiglass cover would be a nice addition, after all the adjustments have been done. Then lock it in place ready for turning on the lathe .
Rather than make it a near press fit, you could have machined the clamp portions first, then turn a simple arbor in the chuck that's the same OD as your spindle, clamp the unfinished spider on the arbor, cut the OD, then remove the arbor, chuck up the spider and finish off the ID. A few more steps but it should relieve your OCD (unless the spindle has run-out).
@@DimaProk in the grand scheme of things, that chunk of material is about $2.00 or so. To guarantee that you would not have to worry about concentricity problems anymore would certainly be money well spent.
@@triggerguard1 I don't know where you live, but it's $35 for foot of 2.25" bar of mild steel: www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/cold-roll-steel/2-25-mild-steel-round-bar-1018-cold-finish/pid/12982 and if you say scrapyard - I have not seen 2" solid bars at my local scrap yard. A local steel yard might cut a smaller chunk cheaper. At any rate the spider is a nice thing to have, disregard my earlier comment.
@@DimaProk I have at least 3 source locally that I can find rems of that size, and easily be under $5 for. I really don't consider online metals a source, since their prices are higher than any place I've ever shopped. They are great for hobbyist I guess, but wayyyy expensive for anything I would normally entertain. Central Oregon
@@triggerguard1 I agree, but my one my local steel charges even more! Found another one that's relatively close and prices are on par if not more but their selection is limited. Online metals has a warehouse in Seattle (30-40 min drive) and with their frequent discounts I used to order it there but last time during Black Friday 30% sale I tried to order but they wanted to ship everything instead of giving me option for local pickup which I have done before. Their website can't tell you directly which item is available in warehouse and which one isn't, I could have at least took some items out of the cart, I even called them and complained and they're aware of the problem, ended up not ordering anything. So what are you sources - local steel supply yards?
The wobble you talk about? Could it be from the end of the spindle bore at the non drive end. Did you check through runout at that end? Awesome videos by the way. You are truly an excellent narrator and very well knowledgeable. I always wished to do gunsmithing and master machining, but never had a chance.
I doubt it would be from the spindle. Pretty sure his assessment of the clamp causing the spider to be a small bit off center is correct. Which none of it matters as he is using a 4 jaw and the spider to indicate the work to run true to the machine.
Gavin, Believe me, many a real machinist have had trials and errors with this process. Besides, Machining (chambering,threading) a gun barrel is done at slow speeds, put a few set screws in there. BOOM! No more run-out. Have a nice day.
My PM 1236 came with a spider. The end of the spindle was threaded and the spider just screws on but there are no lock nuts. How do you make sure that the stock/barrel is centered in the spider?
Have you ever thought of converting the machines to VFD drives with 3-phase motor replacements? Did a handful of machine conversions for a friend of mine, and he loves it.
I did look into that when I got the PM-1440GT. May do it at some point, but for a lathe there's a lot of complexity compared to something like a mill. :)
I don't think I'm brave enough to ever power tap something. I want to get into metal working and have been looking at the lowest model PM lathe thanks to your videos. Maybe one day...
I picked up a used ENCO 13x40 from a local machine shop for $1500. It’s been a great lathe to learn on. It’s actually the same one (model) that Gordy Gritters learned on.
Nice project. I suspect the imbalance is due to the pinch clamp. One possibility would be two, on opposite sides. Oops there goes the structural integrity. Live with the shaking.
@@Ultimatereloader I've been thinking about how to eliminate any imbalance, and have an idea (something SHE says I'm dangerous when doing). And you could make it as tight as you dare, i.e. ref. the present 0.002" clearance. Anyway, rather than using a pinch clamp, how about using a collet type of clamping mechanism replacing the pinch clamp? The collet could use a threaded nut to tighten/squeeze it onto the shaft, with a couple of opposing holes used to hold and tighten the nut through the same access hole you already have in the tray. Normally a collet is threaded on the side furthest from the fingers. In this the fingers are tapered, smallest inside the lathe headstock, larger toward the outside, with a surrounding thread (part of the spider body) to hold the nut on. I hope this makes sense, as I'm not sure of how to describe it, especially in naming and describing everything. To install the spider, thread the nut onto the back of the spider over the collet fingers, leaving it loose enough so all will slip over the shaft(?), push it as far into the headstock as allowed until it seats, then tighten the nut by inserting a rod into any of the holes around the periphery of the nut. My only concern is this - would the nut be prone to loosen due to rotation?
With the greatest of respect, why guess the index of the flats when your Mill has X-Y, simply clamp it to the bed with 1 T nut a length of all thread a bar with a hole in it and a nut!! Touch off, zero the DRO and finish to depth.... By the time you have mentioned the product numbers of the machines a good miller/turner would making chips.....(or in the US French Fries lol )
Great idea but was the camera person drunk? The wobbly video work is quite unsettling, a lot of tv shows think it's "edgy" but it makes some people feel sea sick.... Good work other than that!!
I'm guessing that you either have an outboard stand to support the far end of a particularly long rifle barrel or, you are planning to make one. Ooooohhhh, visions of another spider riding on its own ball bearings. And with a wide and heavy base to forestall any whipping motion... painted to match the lathe. Nothing is too good for a machine that works rifle barrels.
![🎤 ไปกันต่อออ! จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.2] (1/2) เพลงของใครจึ้งสุดน้าา 💓🎤 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mLI_K0sAS4o/mqdefault.jpg)
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
This is an awesome tool. Thank-You for sharing your process. Imma make one myself.
Also I see most folks use a brass or aluminum shims between the jaws teeth. I found wrapping a 6 gauge solid copper wire around the barrel and letting the jaws clamp on that to give the best clamping and allow the best pivoting with a lathe spider 🤙
Eagle Eye Shooting good deal Kenny! Let me know if you have any questions in the article there’s a link to the tubing I bought for this project…
Nice steady rest..always nice to see someone creating a solution
Best ever! Anxious to see an application where you use the spindle.
Paul Harper many rifle builds coming up!!!!
I bought a PM1440GT lathe as well. I like your tool shelf and tray over head stock. How about a video showing how you built them?
By slitting that DOM tubing you created a hinge, that hinge could be contributing to your runout/wobble. Maybe next time a press fit and moving that slit in further so both sides are supported by the spindle may reduce the runout....just a thought👍
Really like the spider. I'm going to use that clamping idea for an outboard indexing wheel that I made. Regarding the tighter fit: you might want to slit and partially tighten the clamp before machining the final bore size. That way the bore can be made to exact & correct size when the spider is under clamping pressure. I perform the same order of ops when making internal arbors - slit and install screw before machining OD.
Just in time! I ordered some 12l14 and the 3/8x32 bolts and nuts to make this! Thank you Gavin!!
Good deal- let us know how it turns out!
Safety Third! You made an awesome Spider!
Really great idea on making that sleeve for your spider. I made a spider for my Grizzly G4003, but I just drilled and tapped the spindle itself where it extended out the back a bit. It was all rather awkward eyeball and hand work. It works well, although I do have to remove the side cover to clear the spider screws when they are installed. If I was to do it again, I'd definitely copy your work for a more elegant and precise result, as well as the ability to use it with the side cover installed. I may still make one like yours. For a tip on the work you had to go through to make the aluminum-tipped screws - Grizzly sells screws with brass tips already on them. That's what I used. Grizzly part number BE1126
I would recommend swinging your compound the other direction away from the chuck. If you’re holding a large piece the jaws can hit the compound rest. It also gets your hand too close to the chuck if you are using the compound to feed with.
Normally I run it at 29 deg for when threading comes up. In this case it was turned for the 45 deg chamfer on the end of the spider. :)
@@Ultimatereloader I figured that was why. If I don't have an inside, outside chamfer tool set up I will run in reverse and chamfer on the back side. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Well Done 👍
You could place neodymium magnets around the outside of the hole for the spider, then fabricate a cup that would cover the spider and stick to the magnets. It would be an easy on off safety device. Great vid! 👍🏼
very good work
Nylon tipped screws work great on my lathe spider.
Aluminum tipper may leave slight marks when tightened.
Awesome video. Love the new lathe. Could you have used set screws to hold the spider on the spindle instead of the relief cuts? I have no access to a mill at the moment is why I'm asking.
If your spindle is threaded for a collet closer you can make a spindle that threads into the spindle. Drill a hole for a small set screw to make sure it will stay in place. Try to make the set screw the same mass as the metal removed from drilling the hole for it. This design will get rid of the wobble.
Hi a nice see through plexiglass cover would be a nice addition, after all the adjustments have been done. Then lock it in place ready for turning on the lathe .
Integi makes some great knurling tools
Thanks, I'll take a look!
Rather than make it a near press fit, you could have machined the clamp portions first, then turn a simple arbor in the chuck that's the same OD as your spindle, clamp the unfinished spider on the arbor, cut the OD, then remove the arbor, chuck up the spider and finish off the ID.
A few more steps but it should relieve your OCD (unless the spindle has run-out).
good idea, but than you need 2" stock for arbor and if you're just starting from scratch that's another thing to purchase :)
@@DimaProk in the grand scheme of things, that chunk of material is about $2.00 or so. To guarantee that you would not have to worry about concentricity problems anymore would certainly be money well spent.
@@triggerguard1 I don't know where you live, but it's $35 for foot of 2.25" bar of mild steel: www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/cold-roll-steel/2-25-mild-steel-round-bar-1018-cold-finish/pid/12982 and if you say scrapyard - I have not seen 2" solid bars at my local scrap yard. A local steel yard might cut a smaller chunk cheaper. At any rate the spider is a nice thing to have, disregard my earlier comment.
@@DimaProk I have at least 3 source locally that I can find rems of that size, and easily be under $5 for. I really don't consider online metals a source, since their prices are higher than any place I've ever shopped. They are great for hobbyist I guess, but wayyyy expensive for anything I would normally entertain.
Central Oregon
@@triggerguard1 I agree, but my one my local steel charges even more! Found another one that's relatively close and prices are on par if not more but their selection is limited. Online metals has a warehouse in Seattle (30-40 min drive) and with their frequent discounts I used to order it there but last time during Black Friday 30% sale I tried to order but they wanted to ship everything instead of giving me option for local pickup which I have done before. Their website can't tell you directly which item is available in warehouse and which one isn't, I could have at least took some items out of the cart, I even called them and complained and they're aware of the problem, ended up not ordering anything. So what are you sources - local steel supply yards?
what a beautiful lathe! I wish I had the money to buy one of those too.
That stubb of stainless on the headstock looks just like one I have from a Black hole weaponry barrel.
The wobble you talk about? Could it be from the end of the spindle bore at the non drive end.
Did you check through runout at that end?
Awesome videos by the way. You are truly an excellent narrator and very well knowledgeable.
I always wished to do gunsmithing and master machining, but never had a chance.
I doubt it would be from the spindle. Pretty sure his assessment of the clamp causing the spider to be a small bit off center is correct. Which none of it matters as he is using a 4 jaw and the spider to indicate the work to run true to the machine.
Gavin, Believe me, many a real machinist have had trials and errors with this process. Besides, Machining (chambering,threading) a gun barrel is done at slow speeds, put a few set screws in there. BOOM! No more run-out. Have a nice day.
Nice work
It dawns on me that 9mm cases might make pretty great soft pads for 3/8" screws like that.
Great video as always. I do have one question. Why did you not power drill the last feature where you singe the spider onto the spindle? Ciao, Marco.
Can you make a tripod next?
My PM 1236 came with a spider. The end of the spindle was threaded and the spider just screws on but there are no lock nuts. How do you make sure that the stock/barrel is centered in the spider?
Have you ever thought of converting the machines to VFD drives with 3-phase motor replacements? Did a handful of machine conversions for a friend of mine, and he loves it.
I did look into that when I got the PM-1440GT. May do it at some point, but for a lathe there's a lot of complexity compared to something like a mill. :)
@@Ultimatereloader really? I've already did one lathe, three mills, and a drill press. Plus a couple of power feeds
You could braze some brass / rig silicon bronze on the ends of the screws so no drilling required then grind to size good to go my idea...
Could you relist the full story page for the 1440 ultimate spider? The page has been taken down. Thanks
Just subscribed, thinking of getting the 14×40 lathe and a mill looking at the persion Matthews.
Круто.... Спасибо за видео. Удачи Вам.....
Спасибо!
Great video, I have an old Logan I need to make one for it.
Awesome- I made one for my logan out of the threaded on sleeve that was a part of the 5C collet closer... Good luck!
Could u list sizes, thread pitches, etc? Id like to try and make similar for my PM1228. Nice video!
Fine!
Good video...old school pot chuck work. lol
I need to make one for my lathe. Great video
sandych33ks1 Good deal! Hope this is helpful…
Hi Gavin. just curious as to why you didn't just part off on the lathe?
That was a nice project
Thanks!
enjoyed ,great info
Thanks!
Nice!
If its tight on the stock. Why clamp it to the spindle?
Were do you buy the solid metal?
ims till confused what this spider achieves. pls help
You should do a form 1 and build a suppressor. I think you would get a lot views and interest from your subscribers.
...that would get my channel shut down quick. :)
Instant demonitization
I don't think I'm brave enough to ever power tap something. I want to get into metal working and have been looking at the lowest model PM lathe thanks to your videos. Maybe one day...
Gavin, thank you! What was the O.D of your spindle.
2.478"
@@Ultimatereloader thank you hoping mine is in buy end of the month
Which lathe would you recommend for a beginner gunsmith?
If you are doing rifle barrel work, I would say a 13x40 at minimum! The Precision Matthews PM-1340GT would be a great option.
I picked up a used ENCO 13x40 from a local machine shop for $1500. It’s been a great lathe to learn on. It’s actually the same one (model) that Gordy Gritters learned on.
Like butta 😎🤙
Nice project.
I suspect the imbalance is due to the pinch clamp. One possibility would be two, on opposite sides. Oops there goes the structural integrity. Live with the shaking.
Well said. It's a non-issue really. :)
@@Ultimatereloader I've been thinking about how to eliminate any imbalance, and have an idea (something SHE says I'm dangerous when doing). And you could make it as tight as you dare, i.e. ref. the present 0.002" clearance.
Anyway, rather than using a pinch clamp, how about using a collet type of clamping mechanism replacing the pinch clamp? The collet could use a threaded nut to tighten/squeeze it onto the shaft, with a couple of opposing holes used to hold and tighten the nut through the same access hole you already have in the tray.
Normally a collet is threaded on the side furthest from the fingers. In this the fingers are tapered, smallest inside the lathe headstock, larger toward the outside, with a surrounding thread (part of the spider body) to hold the nut on. I hope this makes sense, as I'm not sure of how to describe it, especially in naming and describing everything.
To install the spider, thread the nut onto the back of the spider over the collet fingers, leaving it loose enough so all will slip over the shaft(?), push it as far into the headstock as allowed until it seats, then tighten the nut by inserting a rod into any of the holes around the periphery of the nut.
My only concern is this - would the nut be prone to loosen due to rotation?
With the greatest of respect, why guess the index of the flats when your Mill has X-Y, simply clamp it to the bed with 1 T nut a length of all thread a bar with a hole in it and a nut!!
Touch off, zero the DRO and finish to depth....
By the time you have mentioned the product numbers of the machines a good miller/turner would making chips.....(or in the US French Fries lol )
More than one way to skin a cat, and that's fine with me. :)
your much better mounting a 4 jaw independant chuck!!!!!!!!!!
Model name dropper
jeff barber pm1440, ahem, GEEE TEEEEE
Great idea but was the camera person drunk? The wobbly video work is quite unsettling, a lot of tv shows think it's "edgy" but it makes some people feel sea sick.... Good work other than that!!
Great video but from the safety standpoint, you need to loose the ring and the watch. You are just asking for a nice "de-gloving" injury at a minimum.
Your $30 piece of steel has turned into a $150 piece of steel 🤕
I'm guessing that you either have an outboard stand to support the far end of a particularly long rifle barrel or, you are planning to make one. Ooooohhhh, visions of another spider riding on its own ball bearings. And with a wide and heavy base to forestall any whipping motion... painted to match the lathe. Nothing is too good for a machine that works rifle barrels.
How much for you to make me one? Lmao. I need to buy a mill now...
Not many guys like us in this world 😏
Who the fuck filmed this?
Nice work, subscribed! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)
OMG!!.. what a suicide machine.. no safte at all... i´m shocked..
You have a flair for drama :)
yep.. I resigned from a workplace where we had lock on the chuck key, it needed to be in a specific holder before you could turn on the lathe.
That's good practice- I NEVER leave the key in the chuck, even for a second!