very well explained , good video. I have two KRX BOUGHT IN 2022 both are Trail Edition and really loves it. also have 2020 RZR xp 1000 4 seater and keeping having problems with the clutch and plan to sell it with 3500 miles also have a teryx 800 nearly 9 years with 7000 miles really love it never had issue with CVT. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER POLARIS RZR XP, hope the new RZR PRO R has better design with the CVT but there is no videos on TH-cam yet about RZR PRO R CVT YET
I have a polaris 1000xp sportsman stoped on the trails, moves a little but when I tried to take off the secondary clutch because that's where the noise is coming from the bolt just spins and I can hear the spring spining too, tried it with the belt on and off and bolt won't loosen up and come out just spins. Thanks
I have a 18 rzr xp1000 and the secondary clutch has had the standard upgrades such as round pucks, but it still is making that harmonic noise and the hard clunk when changing into different gears such as reverse. I’ve been told that if I swap out the secondary clutch it will take care of that sound and the clunking, is this to be true?
The secondary clutch is a fairly simple design. Yes, those round pucks are a great upgrade and will make that clutch last a long time. The only other part to be concerned about is the helix inside. I rarely see those go bad. Sometimes belt dust gets inside and you need to take the helix out so you can blow out the clutch. As long as the helix or the rollers inside aren't worn, you should be good to go. If that helix is worn, you can get a clunking noise. The whine noise though, that comes from a jacked up primary clutch. The Polaris primary is a piece of crap. If it's whining, it needs rebuilt. This means, weights, buttons, roller bearings, blue washer, and needle bearing. The bearing sleeve may need to be replaced as well. Make sure you check the discs. If they're worn, replace the entire clutch, it's shot. I can usually only get one rebuild out of a clutch before the discs are shot. These clutches work in tandem obviously. If you run a worn primary, it will mess up your secondary and the same the other way around. The primary should be your main concern though. I'll go 5000 miles before I have to mess with a secondary. I can only get 500 - 700 miles on a primary though.
what upgrade do you do to the xp 1000 clutches springs or just pucks. this link is to my brand new 22 RZRXP1000 with just 40 miles on it th-cam.com/video/w-n64HuLhbU/w-d-xo.html the dealer said it was a stretched belt but with only 40 miles i dont get it. any advice for a old and slow rider on fixes.
There are no puck upgrades. There are aftermarket pucks available, but they're no better than OEM. Quite a few companies have a spring / weight mod. SuperATV is one such company. However, it doesn't improve the quality of the clutch. The spring and weight mod can improve engagement. If you're a slow rider doing hard terrain, this might be a good mod. I've done a few and have seen great results. To answer your question regarding what the dealer told you: They might be right. I've seen more belts go bad from slow riders than I have fast riders. For example: If you are riding slow in terrain with hills and you're in high range, you can wear out a belt really quick. Here's some advice: NEVER use an after market belt. I don't care what people say. I've run every brand name belt there is and nothing holds up as well as an OEM belt. Another thing you can do as a slower moving rider is to mod the transmission. This is way more involved, but it's the best mod you can do. SuperATV makes a gear reduction kit. You will have to remove the transmission and replace gears though. Tons of videos online about how to do it. The hardest part of the job is removing the transmission. To be honest, the Polaris transmission and primary clutch is all garbage. No matter what you do, you'll always have issues. I'd consider trading it for a Kawasaki KRX or a Can-Am Maverick. The transmissions and primary clutches in those machines are FAR superior. The P drive clutch in the Can-Am is an amazing design. Hope that info helps
very well explained , good video. I have two KRX BOUGHT IN 2022 both are Trail Edition and really loves it.
also have 2020 RZR xp 1000 4 seater and keeping having problems with the clutch and plan to sell it with 3500 miles
also have a teryx 800 nearly 9 years with 7000 miles really love it never had issue with CVT. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER POLARIS RZR XP, hope the new RZR PRO R has better design with the CVT but there is no videos on TH-cam yet about RZR PRO R CVT YET
I have a polaris 1000xp sportsman stoped on the trails, moves a little but when I tried to take off the secondary clutch because that's where the noise is coming from the bolt just spins and I can hear the spring spining too, tried it with the belt on and off and bolt won't loosen up and come out just spins. Thanks
Great videos
Didn't polaris make there belts harder because that's all I ran but that last one I bought for 200 didn't last
I have a 18 rzr xp1000 and the secondary clutch has had the standard upgrades such as round pucks, but it still is making that harmonic noise and the hard clunk when changing into different gears such as reverse. I’ve been told that if I swap out the secondary clutch it will take care of that sound and the clunking, is this to be true?
The secondary clutch is a fairly simple design. Yes, those round pucks are a great upgrade and will make that clutch last a long time. The only other part to be concerned about is the helix inside. I rarely see those go bad. Sometimes belt dust gets inside and you need to take the helix out so you can blow out the clutch. As long as the helix or the rollers inside aren't worn, you should be good to go. If that helix is worn, you can get a clunking noise. The whine noise though, that comes from a jacked up primary clutch. The Polaris primary is a piece of crap. If it's whining, it needs rebuilt. This means, weights, buttons, roller bearings, blue washer, and needle bearing. The bearing sleeve may need to be replaced as well. Make sure you check the discs. If they're worn, replace the entire clutch, it's shot. I can usually only get one rebuild out of a clutch before the discs are shot. These clutches work in tandem obviously. If you run a worn primary, it will mess up your secondary and the same the other way around. The primary should be your main concern though. I'll go 5000 miles before I have to mess with a secondary. I can only get 500 - 700 miles on a primary though.
Have 5k on mine never did anything but i think it might be time?
On average a good time to replace is after every 1k miles. It does vary on model and wear n tear though.
what upgrade do you do to the xp 1000 clutches springs or just pucks. this link is to my brand new 22 RZRXP1000 with just 40 miles on it th-cam.com/video/w-n64HuLhbU/w-d-xo.html the dealer said it was a stretched belt but with only 40 miles i dont get it. any advice for a old and slow rider on fixes.
Weights are the upgrade for the krx primary clutch
There are no puck upgrades. There are aftermarket pucks available, but they're no better than OEM. Quite a few companies have a spring / weight mod. SuperATV is one such company. However, it doesn't improve the quality of the clutch. The spring and weight mod can improve engagement. If you're a slow rider doing hard terrain, this might be a good mod. I've done a few and have seen great results. To answer your question regarding what the dealer told you: They might be right. I've seen more belts go bad from slow riders than I have fast riders. For example: If you are riding slow in terrain with hills and you're in high range, you can wear out a belt really quick. Here's some advice: NEVER use an after market belt. I don't care what people say. I've run every brand name belt there is and nothing holds up as well as an OEM belt. Another thing you can do as a slower moving rider is to mod the transmission. This is way more involved, but it's the best mod you can do. SuperATV makes a gear reduction kit. You will have to remove the transmission and replace gears though. Tons of videos online about how to do it. The hardest part of the job is removing the transmission. To be honest, the Polaris transmission and primary clutch is all garbage. No matter what you do, you'll always have issues. I'd consider trading it for a Kawasaki KRX or a Can-Am Maverick. The transmissions and primary clutches in those machines are FAR superior. The P drive clutch in the Can-Am is an amazing design. Hope that info helps