I had a guy come to me once with a completely smashed OEV-203 that he'd had shipped to him, somehow the tube and PCBs were undamaged but the metal part of the case was bent and dented, and the plastic facia was shattered into 3 larger pieces and about a hundred smaller ones. Hammered the case back into shape and used ABS goop (scrap ABS mixed with acetone) as a sort of combination filler & glue, which worked out actually surprisingly well. Wouldn't recommend it as anything but a last resort though.
Assuming the the bezel is ABS (which I've yet to run into a plastic one that isn't) there is what I've personally found to be a much better way. If you dissolve ABS (3D printer ABS is a good source especially for color matching) in acetone, with a ratio that becomes sort of soupy when fully dissolved, you can apply it like that epoxy. However it isn't glue. if done correctly it should fuse the pieces into a single solid abs mass. It wont be structurally the same as a new injection pour, but in my experience it works far better than glue because no matter how strong your epoxy is, its still a weak point because it's not a real weldment. the plastic around it will break even if the epoxy itself doesn't. Not to mention its much easier to restore the finish because you can color match using different filament ratios, and if you need to shave or sand, then it's the same type of material so you don't get ridges. For especially weak pieces, like interior screw channels or clips I've had far better luck with this, especially because if the part isn't visible, you can keep painting on layers to really build up the plastic around it, making it stronger than the original brittle weak point.
I like your videos so much, the only thing I don’t like, is that you are not living here in germany, my 20F1E needs a recap and in this step a firmware update would be nice. I don’t have the Tools and the experience to do it myself.
I got one that is much worse (consumer CRT). It would be an awesome addition to my retro gaming setup but I’m afraid to touch it cuz the plastic just crumbles. Any advice? imgur.com/gallery/LPPk0Dv
Maybe FlexSeal? Or their version of tape? If you don't have the other broken pieces, you can't really repair it. I guess you could just throw out the shell and build an arcade style chassis around it.
Someone needs to make a 3D printable model for these bezels! Would be amazing and breathe new life into many cracked monitors.
Awesome video. This will definitely help many people fix some pro CRT's out there, this is commonly seen damage...
I have a small monitor that was shipped to me that got some serious damage. I may try this and repaint the bezel. Always great content. Thank you!
I'm now using ABS slurry after trying a bunch of 2 part epoxies... Does a way better job. Especially with old screw mounts holding the tube in place.
My first (sarcastic) thought should just slap some bondo on there.. out comes the jb weld. hehe good job.
I had a guy come to me once with a completely smashed OEV-203 that he'd had shipped to him, somehow the tube and PCBs were undamaged but the metal part of the case was bent and dented, and the plastic facia was shattered into 3 larger pieces and about a hundred smaller ones. Hammered the case back into shape and used ABS goop (scrap ABS mixed with acetone) as a sort of combination filler & glue, which worked out actually surprisingly well. Wouldn't recommend it as anything but a last resort though.
Assuming the the bezel is ABS (which I've yet to run into a plastic one that isn't) there is what I've personally found to be a much better way. If you dissolve ABS (3D printer ABS is a good source especially for color matching) in acetone, with a ratio that becomes sort of soupy when fully dissolved, you can apply it like that epoxy. However it isn't glue. if done correctly it should fuse the pieces into a single solid abs mass. It wont be structurally the same as a new injection pour, but in my experience it works far better than glue because no matter how strong your epoxy is, its still a weak point because it's not a real weldment. the plastic around it will break even if the epoxy itself doesn't. Not to mention its much easier to restore the finish because you can color match using different filament ratios, and if you need to shave or sand, then it's the same type of material so you don't get ridges. For especially weak pieces, like interior screw channels or clips I've had far better luck with this, especially because if the part isn't visible, you can keep painting on layers to really build up the plastic around it, making it stronger than the original brittle weak point.
Wow that is very cracked up, what a shame. It would be such a dream if Sony made some new CRT PVMs.
Hahaha. That MVS unit is always seeking attention Steve. 8^)
Anthony..
I like your videos so much, the only thing I don’t like, is that you are not living here in germany, my 20F1E needs a recap and in this step a firmware update would be nice.
I don’t have the Tools and the experience to do it myself.
you should have seen if the method Tech Tangents showed would hold up
Cool. Do you have a link to it? I'll check it out.
@@RetroTechUSA th-cam.com/video/n1meoZaHYZo/w-d-xo.html
NWO?! Say it isn't so, Hulkster!
Aight then
You are tube side squeezer type of man, not bottom up one. 🤓
It isn’t fully finished; I still see a crack on the right front of that PVM.
why not remove the bezel and use superglue,result would be a lot cleaner IMO,the cracks would be almost invisible.
I got one that is much worse (consumer CRT). It would be an awesome addition to my retro gaming setup but I’m afraid to touch it cuz the plastic just crumbles. Any advice?
imgur.com/gallery/LPPk0Dv
Maybe FlexSeal? Or their version of tape? If you don't have the other broken pieces, you can't really repair it. I guess you could just throw out the shell and build an arcade style chassis around it.