The way you describe each pair of shoes...it's like a parent talking about his/her children. You can tell you have a genuine passion for this...as if the fact that you have dozens of pairs wasn't telling enough.
If you’re looking to get into good quality dress shoes. I’d recommend Meermin Mallorca. They are offered at a much lower price than Allen Edmonds, but still are very well made and offer an extreme value for the money .
I'm just venturing into the realm of shoes, and I have to hold myself back from splurging every once in a while. When I achieve bespoke, I'm sure it'll be a lovely milestone. Thank you for sharing, Kirby!
My first pair of quality custom shoes, I got a black cap toe oxford. I got that on a made to measure modified last. Got pretty lucky with those. They fit so well you get that whoosh of air as you put your foot in with how well they fit.
I’m glad you have many pairs of black shoes. Black is my favorite color for shoes (maybe it’s because I’m 61). Too many TH-camrs don’t like black shoes. Thank you for being independent that way.
I was in West Tennessee visiting family a few years back. We had gone to this small locally owned restaurant. This elderly man and his wife came in. What caught my eye was his black/white wing tips. These shoes were awesome and the only shoes like them I had seen was in the movie The Untouchables. This man had a three piece on with the pocket watch put in the watch pocket and he had a really fancy cane. I went over to him after they sat down and I introduced myself. I told him that I thought his shoes were great. I asked him where he got them. He laughed and said "son, I bought these in Memphis back in the 40's and I have polished them every week since." His shoes literally looked like he had just bought them, that's how clean and well kept his shoes were. I told him that I have wanted a pair for years but only Doc Martin made them with a boot sole. He laughed and told me good luck in my search. I have been to a lot of shoe stores and everyone that works there just looks at me like I am crazy if I ask if they can get them.
I’m fortunate enough to have finally reached that point in my career where I can afford my first pair of bespoke shoes. I have tremendous trouble with my feet so I feel like it’s a priority over any other type of bespoke item. After watching your videos with all the different makers, I am convinced that a pair of cap-toed Oxfords like the ones Dominic Casey made for you are my ideal starting point. Let’s just hope he has the availability!
If your’ feet give you trouble then you may wish to consider a pair of Derby style shoes as these offer a greater degree of adjustment to allow for feet swelling a little if you have been walking a lot, particularly in hot weather. One other thought is that often people with foot problems choose a very light & flexible pair of shoes, but these offer little support. Some foot problems are better served by a fairly stoutly constructed shoe which, once fully broken in, will be very comfortable but also offer the additional support required.
@@jonathanhicks140 very thoughtful comment - thank you. The issue though is with my heels as they protrude slightly, so it takes so much longer for the heel of the shoe to stretch and soften enough so it’s not putting pressure on my heel. Thankfully the rest are completely fine
I have been wearing good shoes since high school. I was in a shoe store in Hammond, Indiana. The owner came out with a tan pebble grain and he said; "these are shoes". I was hooked. There was a Church's English Shoes on Wabash in Chicago near Central Camera. I bought many shoes there and I still wear them. Kerry was the owner. He was great to talk to about shoes and taught me about quality. I liked your split toe derby Reindeer.
This has been wonderful Kirby! And I want to say that it is also nice to see that you know how to wear a tie in regards to a proper length...so many people get this aspect of tie wearing wrong. Excellent!
Crazy as it is, I have maybe 10 pairs of vintage 80's white Capezio jazz/dance shoes. I love how the sole and heel is very low profile...I'm not a professional dancer, I just love the shoes. Dont ask me who started my obsession with these shoes...you'll be surprised. 😊
Bespoke shoes can go from $2000-$10,000 depending on maker and material... Some shoe trees cost $400 so when that's your whole collection that comment is an understatement 😅
I am retired and live in south Florida so I normally wear casual loafers for most activities. By the way, if you walk along Worth Avenue in Palm Beach all you will see men wearing are Italian-made loafers. My favorite right now are loafers made out of crocodile skins. You should consider this kind of material also. Everybody says that they are the most beautiful shoes that I have. Both pairs that I own I was able to purchase "gently worn" on Ebay. Otherwise, I could never be able to afford them as they cost over $1,000.
The key is to polish/take care of them right after you take them off. For example, if you use one pair, you have to put them in shoe trees and polish them right after you use them, so you can store them and have them ready for next time.
TBH, I had a little help shining all of these shoes before the video! It was a lot! But once a shoe is properly shined, maintenance shouldn’t take more than 5-10 minutes max.
Well done Kirby. I liked the suede captoes by Mr. Casey the most. He’s a great artisan. I also thought the whole-cut lazymans were a great idea for travel.
Got to admit, I just grew an affection for suede shoes. I could not figure out how you're going to wear the Casey suede shoes. Rather, what wardrobe. Got to say, you knocked it out of the park! I should not be so inspired by watching your channel... But I have made compromises! I can't quite do bespoke, so I "settle" for made to order 😂 OH! Then, the trousers, the jacket, the shirt, the tie.....
Do these shoe makers make the shoes from the same hide? I don’t know if I’m saying it right…. I hate it when one shoe creases differently from the other shoe. Creases are fine but I would want the creasing to be the same on both shoes. Thanks
I’ve got 60 odd but my shoe seller has well over 100 pairs! None are bespoke like yours though but they are still of high quality. I think the slippers don’t offer great value unless you buy from one of the Spanish makers.
Kirby need some advice. Have bought a few pairs at your recommendation I am struggling a bit sliding a lot is that part of the process I grind when I am on hardwood or tile it’s sliding everywhere does that stop as you wear the shoes more or is there any advice on how to make them less dangerous lol
After a while of collecting you will began to find your style and I see that you have. I am more of a European long toe type of guy and I prefer this cut on boots shoes and slippers .
I'm not a suit or dress up kind of guy. I wore dress clothes or required dress for many years. I'm comfortable in jeans and an untucked button up or polo shirt. I still wear Metal Band t-shirts too. Kirby is still awesome!
As I work in a less formal industry here in the UK, my quality shoes and boots (a few divisions lower than yours - mainly Cheaney and Crockett and Jones) tend to be brown. So I'm always interested to see your black cap toe Oxfords, as I style I wouldn't invest in myself. I love split toe Derbys though and those Cleverley Russian Reindeer shoes are the dream. Beautiful. Thanks for sharing your incredible collection Kirby!
C&J and Cheaney very respectable and will last. Bespoke is should be for those with bottomless pockets, addiction, odd feet while most of us will be fie with RTW and MTO
When building a shoe wardrobe, and in the interest of stretching one's budget... Which shoe styles lend themselves better to the bespoke process? And, with which styles could one forgo the bespoke process and get an acceptable fit made-to-measure? In other words, which styles of shoe are best acquired bespoke and which can be purchased at a lower price point via made-to-measure and still get an acceptable fit? For example, I would think closed laced style shoes such as a cap-toe oxford are best made via the bespoke process. Whereas, a chukka boot with an acceptable fit might be acquired made-to-measure at a lower price point.
I have a question… I have posted this to you before but have not received an answer so I thought I would ask once again. I needed a pair of black shoes that I could wear for mission work in Africa in the townships in villages. I did not want to ruin a pair of expensive shoes and so I purchased a pair of Florsheim Norwalk black oxfords. They were made out of crazy horse leather. I thought I would simply give them a shine and they would look decent, but instead the crazy horse leather apparently has some sort of oil or wax in it that will not allow the shoe to be polished. Can you tell me what to do to remove the waxy film so that I can polish the shoes and get some sort of a moderate shine on them. I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you so much! Ed
The black loafers, are certainly a favorite of mine. As a young fellow I feel it would be fitting. I may have disliked the boot, maybe I would have to see it. However ,for me, the boots brown suede and then brown or burgundy calf wasn't very appealing-not something I would buy per say. Great video!
With this much a shoe collection. You surely never have to repeat wear a pair at maybe once a month maybe or longer. For the average guy starting out with barely even a good first leather pair, it’s tough as that shoe gonna get worn lots! However, a damn nice fine collection. A son would be proud one day to walk in his dads literal shoe steps.
You don’t seem to have any monk straps or Chelsea boots which is a little surprising, I would go for one of them for your next choice unless you don’t like them.
Hey Kirby, Watched your episodes on Lee Miller and getting fitted for boots, but never saw the final product. How do they fit? Do you wear them often? How about a little revisit?
Personally I think you have gone overboard but this is your passion and hobby. I collect classic cars and some think that is stupid. For my shoe comfort I have 4 pairs of custom orthotics made by my foot doctor. Plaster casts were made of the bottom of my feet. I only buy shoes where the factory insoles can come out and I put my custom orthotics in to replace the factory ones. All of my shoes, boots, ice skates ski ski boots fit perfectly. I advise that for everyone to do.
Your’ collection is admirable Kirby, but seems to be largely city style shoes, so perhaps you ought to consider a good heavily built country shoe next for out of town, particularly in bad weather (i.e. when you are back over here in the UK). Maybe get experimental with a Veldtschoen construction perhaps. If you do then they may well be an heirloom for your’ children - as they do tend to last…..
You think long & hard about exactly what you want before commissioning, then you wear them and take care of them for the rest of your life. If you pay $5,000 for a pair of bespoke shoes that last 30 years, that works out to $166.67 per year - call it $200 including maintenance costs. Or you could buy a $200 pair of shoes that don't fit half as well, and need replacing every year, at an ever increasing price due to inflation. As an example, something that cost $200 in 1990, would increase in price to $396.04 by 2020, just from inflation. Having done the math, if you bought a pair of $200 shoes in 1990, and replaced them yearly, with the price of said shoes increasing only by inflation, over 30 years you would've spent $9281.39 - and would still need to buy a new pair of shoes. On the other hand, a pair of shoes that cost $5,000 today, would've cost $2,525.01 in 1990 (adjusted for inflation). Add a grand to that for resoles & polish, you end up at $3,525 spent... Bespoke shoes may be terrifyingly expensive in the short term, but in the long term, they can work out considerably cheaper than "buy and replace" shoes...
Hi Kirby new recent follower here, today Id seen a hand made shoe with which had the traditional cross lace up design similar to what you have but the shoe was knotted on the inside of the shoe up against the outside row of eyelet to the side of the tongue hidding the knot all together when the shoe is on the foot might and I add done with the traditional “fancy” knots (upon close inspection) . Might you know anything about this clever fashion statement ?
I’m in your tax bracket too, but I can give you my opinion and that is Crockett and Jones are fantastic and the Loake 1880’s are very nice, but a step below c&j. I would avoid Trickers because they don’t stand behind their mistakes.
@@jeffreygoss8109 thank you so much for your advice . I have always wanted a pair you see but don’t know what to go for as I want them to be an investment . What’s the difference in all of these different brands ?
@@whiskeylover2340 very little to be honest. Once you get above $300 a pair the differences are small detail. Details most won’t see. My trickers had a right shoe which squeaked and they (the factory) blew me off also they were not finished well. They painted the shoe with edge coat. Just sloppy and probably a. We employee or someone on a Friday afternoon . As you can figure you pay for name. You may find some non bespoke are a better fit to your feet. Dollar for dollar I think Carlos santos are hard to beat. Classic English I like Loakes and Barkers ( I admit the leather for truckers was softer but the squeak was unbearable). I can’t put words to the C&J but they are just top notch. Contact the noble shoe, TH-cam channel miseu something or another. He is very good with explaining last’s for your foot.
Robert I was given a pair of black oxford’s with the name Bespoke written the shoes, can you tell me about this shoe brand. Made in Italy since 1948 , 9D 0001
I LOVED this. At this time I stick to Allen & Edmunds but in the future plan to add some bespoke shoes to my closet. I think a dark green suede loafer may be sharp. Possibly a new Baron De Rede
You could always try some classic English Northampton bench made shoes I personally like churchs there are lots of very good quality options grenson, Barker's, cheaney and on a budget Loake all decent quality very reasonable prices the full bespoke always seems a little crazy personally as I don't think any bench made shoe is really as comfortable as a decent sneaker anyway and I no longer work in an office environment.
No wingtips / full brogues? That's what I'd get next then. Coincidentally, my l latest pair of shoes are a pair of mahogany wingtips (Crockett & Jones, no bespoke for me yet) 😊
Hello Mr Allison, Thank you for showing us your shoe collection. It's very inspiring for someone like myself who loves shoes. But I have a question regarding the Cleverly pieces that you have. Why are the back ankle seams not totally centred on them or is it the shoe tree making them that way? Thank you.
I'll gladly take those Burgundy wholecuts off your hands, Kirby :) Actually find more use for that colour than black, personally because I can pair it with lots of grey shades.
I was wearing nothing but black. I recently got into burgundy. I like it! I like using the Saphir Bordeaux polish to emphasize the purple notes of the burgundy. Purple is my favorite color besides black. So I don't know why I didn't try burgundy sooner.
We all have ur obsessions, mine being stringed instruments (guitar, banjo,Ukes). Your videos are so relaxing and interesting, and I have worked on all of my shoes, and bought new since starting to watch you. 21 parries of shoes? Hmm at peak I had 23 guitar effects pedals. Never say too many when its something we like. I can see you value all things sartorial. Do you ever dress down to say denim, or lumberjack shirts, chinos, trainers?
I am starting to get better shoes in my wardrobe and specifically just got a pair of dress shoes. The toe of one of the shoes has color damage. The leather itself is smooth and shaped, no scuffs or scratches. I need a shoe repair shop to essentially re-stain the shoe to match. My concern is I am not impressed with the two repair shops in my area (Philadelphia, Pa). My question for you, if you can offer some advice, is what should I be looking for in a repair shop to gain the confidence in their abilities? I looked at online rankings/reviews and neither really have any. Please help, looking for my shoes future!
The three shoes I'd get based on your collection would probably be: 1. Any shoe in pigskin 2. A lazyman in pewter gray calf 3. Oxfords in replica reindeer I won't be able to cross into bespoke territory but I've seen a lot of great MTO designs out there.
Your Dominic Casey shoe is the most beautifil. That is of course my very own subjective opinion. I personally haven't understood all the hype around the chiseled toe shape. Although a lot producers offer a "classic" round toe, most of them look rather flat, as there is little room in the toe box. Carmina's Forest last has a nice shape, but you usually find this refined "old school" classic toe shape only in the higher end of the market.
At the end with the miscount: Hi I'm Kirby Allison, I like to help the well dressed with their wardrobes... so I can feed my shoe addiction :D It's how we all finance our hobbies, right?
Kirby, you didn't mention your monk straps, chukka boots, or opera pumps, lol. I would probably get the lazyman wholecuts and the burgundy loafers, maybe in pigskin. I am a huge fan of smooth leathers, but maybe it will grow on me as I expand my own collection. As for bespoke, I would love to have my first pairs made from Antonio Meccariello and John Lobb London.
Technically I haven't started (or more accurately I intend to replace all my current shoes eventually due to a weird foot) so it'll probably be a dark brown or black cap toe oxford for my first made shoes but switch to a grain split-toe or suede chukka soon after for a more everyday shoe
My favorite is definitely the one from Dominic Casey, then the Croc from George Cleverly, though I would have it in formal shoes instead of casual - it could be a little bit of a more exquisitely shaped formal design, but not in casual style. I do like the mock brogue from GC. Like you, I look for unique material that the few boutiques could sourced for - deerskin with historical value is great. What I am not keen on is the few repetitive design, especially with the casual ones - I prefer something that are out there such as Cothay, and Westminster (i believe) from GC. Also having too many formal captoe can get boring.
I'm not really into bespoke shoes at all, but it's wonderful being able to listen to someone explain his hobby and area of expertise so well.
I can’t remember the last time I ironed a shirt or polished shoes but I like these vids too …
Same 😂
The way you describe each pair of shoes...it's like a parent talking about his/her children. You can tell you have a genuine passion for this...as if the fact that you have dozens of pairs wasn't telling enough.
dude has a foot fetish, not to mention his gae only fans acc. where he plays with bespoke b.plugs
I only have Jordan’s and Nike, but love watching your channel.
Buy some Allen Edmonds. I resell J’s and Yeezys. I love wearing mine, but try these. They’ll change your aesthetic and make you feel great. :)
If you’re looking to get into good quality dress shoes. I’d recommend Meermin Mallorca. They are offered at a much lower price than Allen Edmonds, but still are very well made and offer an extreme value for the money .
Go get an Oxford black captoe.
@@chris5k132 most people don’t dress in a way that makes that a viable option.
dress shoes deform your feet
I'm just venturing into the realm of shoes, and I have to hold myself back from splurging every once in a while. When I achieve bespoke, I'm sure it'll be a lovely milestone. Thank you for sharing, Kirby!
I don’t understand the evolution of your choices, but I respect your openness. Thank you Kirby
My first pair of quality custom shoes, I got a black cap toe oxford. I got that on a made to measure modified last. Got pretty lucky with those. They fit so well you get that whoosh of air as you put your foot in with how well they fit.
Your presentation is now so very slick and confident, Kirby. I hope you never get mugged: they’d take the shoes and, leave the wallet behind!
I’m glad you have many pairs of black shoes. Black is my favorite color for shoes (maybe it’s because I’m 61). Too many TH-camrs don’t like black shoes. Thank you for being independent that way.
The whole cut mock Brogues. I love them
I was in West Tennessee visiting family a few years back. We had gone to this small locally owned restaurant. This elderly man and his wife came in. What caught my eye was his black/white wing tips. These shoes were awesome and the only shoes like them I had seen was in the movie The Untouchables. This man had a three piece on with the pocket watch put in the watch pocket and he had a really fancy cane. I went over to him after they sat down and I introduced myself. I told him that I thought his shoes were great. I asked him where he got them. He laughed and said "son, I bought these in Memphis back in the 40's and I have polished them every week since." His shoes literally looked like he had just bought them, that's how clean and well kept his shoes were. I told him that I have wanted a pair for years but only Doc Martin made them with a boot sole. He laughed and told me good luck in my search. I have been to a lot of shoe stores and everyone that works there just looks at me like I am crazy if I ask if they can get them.
Trying googling something like "spectator shoes black and white."
Kirby, I'll give $75 for your entire shoe collection. Act now, because this offer won't last long!
Lol. 😅
Ratio wise that wouldn't even get you a single nail on one of those shoes lol.
@@Pshen2p well that window is closed, but if Kirby ups it to $110, maybe I'll reconsider :)
@@Pshen2p a nail? That wouldn’t even cover the shoelaces let alone a shoe lol
At 5 months later, this was just too hilarious 😆 a read. Well done Sir!
I’m fortunate enough to have finally reached that point in my career where I can afford my first pair of bespoke shoes. I have tremendous trouble with my feet so I feel like it’s a priority over any other type of bespoke item. After watching your videos with all the different makers, I am convinced that a pair of cap-toed Oxfords like the ones Dominic Casey made for you are my ideal starting point. Let’s just hope he has the availability!
If your’ feet give you trouble then you may wish to consider a pair of Derby style shoes as these offer a greater degree of adjustment to allow for feet swelling a little if you have been walking a lot, particularly in hot weather. One other thought is that often people with foot problems choose a very light & flexible pair of shoes, but these offer little support. Some foot problems are better served by a fairly stoutly constructed shoe which, once fully broken in, will be very comfortable but also offer the additional support required.
@@jonathanhicks140 very thoughtful comment - thank you. The issue though is with my heels as they protrude slightly, so it takes so much longer for the heel of the shoe to stretch and soften enough so it’s not putting pressure on my heel. Thankfully the rest are completely fine
I have been wearing good shoes since high school. I was in a shoe store in Hammond, Indiana. The owner came out with a tan pebble grain and he said; "these are shoes". I was hooked. There was a Church's English Shoes on Wabash in Chicago near Central Camera. I bought many shoes there and I still wear them. Kerry was the owner. He was great to talk to about shoes and taught me about quality. I liked your split toe derby Reindeer.
The shoes that I really looking forward to try some day are Brown Suede Cap Toe Oxfords. maybe only not the plain cap toe, but with adelaides.
This has been wonderful Kirby! And I want to say that it is also nice to see that you know how to wear a tie in regards to a proper length...so many people get this aspect of tie wearing wrong. Excellent!
His shoe collection is enough to make someone shoegasm!!
Those last 17 seconds are my exact thoughts everytime I look at my collection.
Those George Cleverly loafers are stunning!!
Crazy as it is, I have maybe 10 pairs of vintage 80's white Capezio jazz/dance shoes. I love how the sole and heel is very low profile...I'm not a professional dancer, I just love the shoes. Dont ask me who started my obsession with these shoes...you'll be surprised. 😊
Amazing collection Kirby! It does become addictive collecting quality shoes.
You should work with Steve from Bedo’s Leather Works
th-cam.com/video/evZNRerSMHE/w-d-xo.html
24:57 "Not a particularly expensive shoe, probably retails for less than $400" :D
Bespoke shoes can go from $2000-$10,000 depending on maker and material... Some shoe trees cost $400 so when that's your whole collection that comment is an understatement 😅
I only have 1 pair of shoe but i still love the channel it feels so calm
I am retired and live in south Florida so I normally wear casual loafers for most activities. By the way, if you walk along Worth Avenue in Palm Beach all you will see men wearing are Italian-made loafers. My favorite right now are loafers made out of crocodile skins. You should consider this kind of material also. Everybody says that they are the most beautiful shoes that I have. Both pairs that I own I was able to purchase "gently worn" on Ebay. Otherwise, I could never be able to afford them as they cost over $1,000.
A question sir how do take care of so many shoes they all are perfectly shined pls answer sir!
It’s not only a hobby, it’s what he does for a living.
The key is to polish/take care of them right after you take them off. For example, if you use one pair, you have to put them in shoe trees and polish them right after you use them, so you can store them and have them ready for next time.
@@MichaelOssen hmm😊 right
@@glo_me666 the most logical reply ever seen on shoes great i will practice this from now
TBH, I had a little help shining all of these shoes before the video! It was a lot! But once a shoe is properly shined, maintenance shouldn’t take more than 5-10 minutes max.
Kirby, it is great to see, how passionate you are in this video. i watched so many of your videos, but this one is special
Kirby is the Imelda 👠 👞 in the relationship 😂
Love your channel mate ~ keep the content coming 🇦🇺
Well done Kirby. I liked the suede captoes by Mr. Casey the most. He’s a great artisan. I also thought the whole-cut lazymans were a great idea for travel.
The burgundy baron de rede… as you circled them I noticed an inconsistency between the left and right??
* talks about any pair from the collection *
- It's one of my favourite pair of shoes!
(Really reminds me of the way I talk about my shoes :D )
Got to admit, I just grew an affection for suede shoes. I could not figure out how you're going to wear the Casey suede shoes. Rather, what wardrobe. Got to say, you knocked it out of the park!
I should not be so inspired by watching your channel... But I have made compromises! I can't quite do bespoke, so I "settle" for made to order 😂 OH! Then, the trousers, the jacket, the shirt, the tie.....
I have never seen so many shoes in one place in history haha. Great video. 👍👍
It’s a little frightening to seem them all together... normally, they are split between the office and home, so I rarely see them all together also!
Imelda Marcos called. She said that is a lot of shoes. Lol.
Great collection, Kirby!
Thank you for your passion and dedication. I have learned a lot about shoe care and how to shop for shoes.
Nice show collection! But you really need to give em some love!
Do these shoe makers make the shoes from the same hide? I don’t know if I’m saying it right…. I hate it when one shoe creases differently from the other shoe. Creases are fine but I would want the creasing to be the same on both shoes. Thanks
I’ve got 60 odd but my shoe seller has well over 100 pairs! None are bespoke like yours though but they are still of high quality. I think the slippers don’t offer great value unless you buy from one of the Spanish makers.
This is what a high-society sneakerhead looks like
Thanks for the tour. You might check out Bedo's Leather Works to bring your black suede Belgian loafers back to life. He does amazing work.
Kirby need some advice. Have bought a few pairs at your recommendation I am struggling a bit sliding a lot is that part of the process I grind when I am on hardwood or tile it’s sliding everywhere does that stop as you wear the shoes more or is there any advice on how to make them less dangerous lol
After a while of collecting you will began to find your style and I see that you have. I am more of a European long toe type of guy and I prefer this cut on boots shoes and slippers .
I'm not a suit or dress up kind of guy. I wore dress clothes or required dress for many years. I'm comfortable in jeans and an untucked button up or polo shirt. I still wear Metal Band t-shirts too. Kirby is still awesome!
As I work in a less formal industry here in the UK, my quality shoes and boots (a few divisions lower than yours - mainly Cheaney and Crockett and Jones) tend to be brown. So I'm always interested to see your black cap toe Oxfords, as I style I wouldn't invest in myself.
I love split toe Derbys though and those Cleverley Russian Reindeer shoes are the dream. Beautiful.
Thanks for sharing your incredible collection Kirby!
C&J and Cheaney very respectable and will last. Bespoke is should be for those with bottomless pockets, addiction, odd feet while most of us will be fie with RTW and MTO
When building a shoe wardrobe, and in the interest of stretching one's budget... Which shoe styles lend themselves better to the bespoke process? And, with which styles could one forgo the bespoke process and get an acceptable fit made-to-measure? In other words, which styles of shoe are best acquired bespoke and which can be purchased at a lower price point via made-to-measure and still get an acceptable fit? For example, I would think closed laced style shoes such as a cap-toe oxford are best made via the bespoke process. Whereas, a chukka boot with an acceptable fit might be acquired made-to-measure at a lower price point.
I have a question… I have posted this to you before but have not received an answer so I thought I would ask once again. I needed a pair of black shoes that I could wear for mission work in Africa in the townships in villages. I did not want to ruin a pair of expensive shoes and so I purchased a pair of Florsheim Norwalk black oxfords. They were made out of crazy horse leather. I thought I would simply give them a shine and they would look decent, but instead the crazy horse leather apparently has some sort of oil or wax in it that will not allow the shoe to be polished. Can you tell me what to do to remove the waxy film so that I can polish the shoes and get some sort of a moderate shine on them. I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you so much! Ed
Why don't you try Perforated Balmoral Captoe or Monkstrap?
ALMOST UNGODLY! GODLY because I WANT ALL OF THEM!
I love these shoes! Such a class!
This is going to be another of your classic videos. Nice!
I'm still learning about custom shoes and bespoke shoes and I was wondering why the toe taps? What are those used for?
The black loafers, are certainly a favorite of mine. As a young fellow I feel it would be fitting. I may have disliked the boot, maybe I would have to see it. However ,for me, the boots brown suede and then brown or burgundy calf wasn't very appealing-not something I would buy per say.
Great video!
Your taste is impeccable. I love your comment.
With this much a shoe collection. You surely never have to repeat wear a pair at maybe once a month maybe or longer. For the average guy starting out with barely even a good first leather pair, it’s tough as that shoe gonna get worn lots! However, a damn nice fine collection. A son would be proud one day to walk in his dads literal shoe steps.
You don’t seem to have any monk straps or Chelsea boots which is a little surprising, I would go for one of them for your next choice unless you don’t like them.
I’m not much into suits and dress shoes, but I have a pair of bespoke work boots from a local manufacturer and they’re the best boots ever.
Hey Kirby, Watched your episodes on Lee Miller and getting fitted for boots, but never saw the final product. How do they fit? Do you wear them often? How about a little revisit?
Nice.. the most detailed shoe talk i ever see..great shoes..
Please recommend a good shoe tree website from which to buy?
I would add:
-Sur mesure Berluti Andy
-wholecut Silvano Lattanzi norwegian welt
-corthay arca
What shoes would you get for a hot dry climate, e.g. the Middle East. Could you get brogues that are fully perforated for ventilation?
Kirby, I very respectfully recommend you try a pair of two eyelet Arca Derby shoes for your next bespoke piece. Regards
Personally I think you have gone overboard but this is your passion and hobby. I collect classic cars and some think that is stupid. For my shoe comfort I have 4 pairs of custom orthotics made by my foot doctor. Plaster casts were made of the bottom of my feet. I only buy shoes where the factory insoles can come out and I put my custom orthotics in to replace the factory ones. All of my shoes, boots, ice skates ski ski boots fit perfectly. I advise that for everyone to do.
The brown suede Dominic Casey shoes look really good on you and you remind me to look after shoes properly.
Exquisite collection Kirby!
Kirby "Muriel" Allison? What does that M stand for?
Kirby, any news about your Huntsman bespoke suit with the doeskin waistcoat?
Your’ collection is admirable Kirby, but seems to be largely city style shoes, so perhaps you ought to consider a good heavily built country shoe next for out of town, particularly in bad weather (i.e. when you are back over here in the UK). Maybe get experimental with a Veldtschoen construction perhaps. If you do then they may well be an heirloom for your’ children - as they do tend to last…..
Gorgeous and exquisite shoe collection. I just wonder how does one wears every pair and utilize them to great length to make it “worth the price.”
That is a problem only millionaires have. Lol.
@@lastwhtknight3002 LOL. I have 30 hats and I mainly rotate 7 hats out of the 30, but hats are less expensive than the bespoke shoes.
You think long & hard about exactly what you want before commissioning, then you wear them and take care of them for the rest of your life. If you pay $5,000 for a pair of bespoke shoes that last 30 years, that works out to $166.67 per year - call it $200 including maintenance costs. Or you could buy a $200 pair of shoes that don't fit half as well, and need replacing every year, at an ever increasing price due to inflation.
As an example, something that cost $200 in 1990, would increase in price to $396.04 by 2020, just from inflation.
Having done the math, if you bought a pair of $200 shoes in 1990, and replaced them yearly, with the price of said shoes increasing only by inflation, over 30 years you would've spent $9281.39 - and would still need to buy a new pair of shoes.
On the other hand, a pair of shoes that cost $5,000 today, would've cost $2,525.01 in 1990 (adjusted for inflation). Add a grand to that for resoles & polish, you end up at $3,525
spent...
Bespoke shoes may be terrifyingly expensive in the short term, but in the long term, they can work out considerably cheaper than "buy and replace" shoes...
Hi Kirby new recent follower here, today Id seen a hand made shoe with which had the traditional cross lace up design similar to what you have but the shoe was knotted on the inside of the shoe up against the outside row of eyelet to the side of the tongue hidding the knot all together when the shoe is on the foot might and I add done with the traditional “fancy” knots (upon close inspection) . Might you know anything about this clever fashion statement ?
I just applied for a job at a shoe store because of this video 😮
I haven’t got enough money for bespoke but what are your thoughts on Crockett and Jones and also Loake Shoemakers ? Thanks
I’m in your tax bracket too, but I can give you my opinion and that is Crockett and Jones are fantastic and the Loake 1880’s are very nice, but a step below c&j. I would avoid Trickers because they don’t stand behind their mistakes.
@@jeffreygoss8109 thank you so much for your advice . I have always wanted a pair you see but don’t know what to go for as I want them to be an investment . What’s the difference in all of these different brands ?
@@whiskeylover2340 very little to be honest. Once you get above $300 a pair the differences are small detail. Details most won’t see. My trickers had a right shoe which squeaked and they (the factory) blew me off also they were not finished well. They painted the shoe with edge coat. Just sloppy and probably a. We employee or someone on a Friday afternoon . As you can figure you pay for name. You may find some non bespoke are a better fit to your feet.
Dollar for dollar I think Carlos santos are hard to beat.
Classic English I like Loakes and Barkers ( I admit the leather for truckers was softer but the squeak was unbearable). I can’t put words to the C&J but they are just top notch.
Contact the noble shoe, TH-cam channel miseu something or another. He is very good with explaining last’s for your foot.
C&J are a level above Loake - but Loake must be doing something right. I own one of each. What to go for depends on your personal style.
You don't have any waxed suede shoes?
Robert I was given a pair of black oxford’s with the name Bespoke written the shoes, can you tell me about this shoe brand. Made in Italy since 1948 , 9D 0001
The chukka boots resonate with me as they do with those many of us from the Steve McQueen end of the style world
Those medium brown cap toe Oxfords are the prettiest by far
Very nice. Now let’s see Paul Allen’s bespoke shoe collection.
I LOVED this. At this time I stick to Allen & Edmunds but in the future plan to add some bespoke shoes to my closet.
I think a dark green suede loafer may be sharp. Possibly a new Baron De Rede
You could always try some classic English Northampton bench made shoes I personally like churchs there are lots of very good quality options grenson, Barker's, cheaney and on a budget Loake all decent quality very reasonable prices the full bespoke always seems a little crazy personally as I don't think any bench made shoe is really as comfortable as a decent sneaker anyway and I no longer work in an office environment.
No wingtips / full brogues? That's what I'd get next then. Coincidentally, my l latest pair of shoes are a pair of mahogany wingtips (Crockett & Jones, no bespoke for me yet) 😊
No mention of the Gaziano and Girlings?
The burgundy crocodile loafers 🐊🔥
Hello Mr Allison,
Thank you for showing us your shoe collection. It's very inspiring for someone like myself who loves shoes. But I have a question regarding the Cleverly pieces that you have. Why are the back ankle seams not totally centred on them or is it the shoe tree making them that way?
Thank you.
The thumbnail..HAHAHA
Best one yet 🤣
Says it all... lol
appreciate your dedication to style and quality but as I get older these old paradigms become less important to me. happy to discuss further .
Impressive collection Kirby. You are the Amelda Marcos of the USA.
Not enough shoes to even come close.
I'll gladly take those Burgundy wholecuts off your hands, Kirby :)
Actually find more use for that colour than black, personally because I can pair it with lots of grey shades.
Yeah. I should wear them more often, probably. I’d like a burgundy semibrogue made. I agree - it is a very versatile color.
Kirby has made me fall in love with Burgundy shoes. So versatile. And they pop!
I was wearing nothing but black. I recently got into burgundy. I like it! I like using the Saphir Bordeaux polish to emphasize the purple notes of the burgundy. Purple is my favorite color besides black. So I don't know why I didn't try burgundy sooner.
@@jennoscura2381 Thanks for the Bordeaux tip, will give that a try!
We all have ur obsessions, mine being stringed instruments (guitar, banjo,Ukes). Your videos are so relaxing and interesting, and I have worked on all of my shoes, and bought new since starting to watch you. 21 parries of shoes? Hmm at peak I had 23 guitar effects pedals. Never say too many when its something we like. I can see you value all things sartorial. Do you ever dress down to say denim, or lumberjack shirts, chinos, trainers?
My favourite pair are the Russian Reindeer Split-Toe Derbies. Love the design.
I am starting to get better shoes in my wardrobe and specifically just got a pair of dress shoes. The toe of one of the shoes has color damage. The leather itself is smooth and shaped, no scuffs or scratches. I need a shoe repair shop to essentially re-stain the shoe to match. My concern is I am not impressed with the two repair shops in my area (Philadelphia, Pa). My question for you, if you can offer some advice, is what should I be looking for in a repair shop to gain the confidence in their abilities? I looked at online rankings/reviews and neither really have any. Please help, looking for my shoes future!
The three shoes I'd get based on your collection would probably be:
1. Any shoe in pigskin
2. A lazyman in pewter gray calf
3. Oxfords in replica reindeer
I won't be able to cross into bespoke territory but I've seen a lot of great MTO designs out there.
A slip on ankle boot. Jopher I think they're called. Kinda like a Chelsea with a strap instead of elastics.
I've just discovered this channel and I have to say, I wish I'd found it sooner. Great content
Mr. Allison, You don’t have a pair of wingtip shoes?
Never been a fan of wingtips
@@kirbyallison you wouldn't want to see my collection then... heh
Your Dominic Casey shoe is the most beautifil. That is of course my very own subjective opinion. I personally haven't understood all the hype around the chiseled toe shape. Although a lot producers offer a "classic" round toe, most of them look rather flat, as there is little room in the toe box. Carmina's Forest last has a nice shape, but you usually find this refined "old school" classic toe shape only in the higher end of the market.
The chukka boots are probably the only pair of dress shoes I would actually get used to wearing the foster and son's shoes I could wear .
Kirby you are on a par with Imelda Marcos!
At the end with the miscount: Hi I'm Kirby Allison, I like to help the well dressed with their wardrobes... so I can feed my shoe addiction :D It's how we all finance our hobbies, right?
Kirby, you didn't mention your monk straps, chukka boots, or opera pumps, lol. I would probably get the lazyman wholecuts and the burgundy loafers, maybe in pigskin. I am a huge fan of smooth leathers, but maybe it will grow on me as I expand my own collection. As for bespoke, I would love to have my first pairs made from Antonio Meccariello and John Lobb London.
Technically I haven't started (or more accurately I intend to replace all my current shoes eventually due to a weird foot) so it'll probably be a dark brown or black cap toe oxford for my first made shoes but switch to a grain split-toe or suede chukka soon after for a more everyday shoe
I ONLY wear dress boots, you can just do so much with a boot and I love how they feel
very nice shoes :) do you ever wish for bespoke running or jim shoe?
My favorite is definitely the one from Dominic Casey, then the Croc from George Cleverly, though I would have it in formal shoes instead of casual - it could be a little bit of a more exquisitely shaped formal design, but not in casual style. I do like the mock brogue from GC.
Like you, I look for unique material that the few boutiques could sourced for - deerskin with historical value is great. What I am not keen on is the few repetitive design, especially with the casual ones - I prefer something that are out there such as Cothay, and Westminster (i believe) from GC. Also having too many formal captoe can get boring.