LB7 Duramax | GMC Sierra 3500 Dually Rear Wheel Seal Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2020
- LB7 Duramax | GMC Sierra 3500 Dually Rear Wheel Seal Replacement.
Parts:
🔴GM Genuine Parts 291-319 Rear Axle Shaft Seal : amzn.to/2QBKpuv
🔴Fel-Pro 55350 Axle Flange Gasket : amzn.to/3bAQZJw
🔴Powerbuilt 648475 Spindle Nut Socket, Six Outer: amzn.to/342zoGe
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Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Wheel Seal
-Grease is leaking from the bearings. The wheel seal is supposed to fit very tight in the wheel -assembly and protects the wheel bearings from dirt, water, and other debris that can cause damage.
-Visible damage to the wheel seal. ...
-Noises coming from the tires and wheels.
- Playlist: "Project LB7 Duramax Spool Up" • Duramax Top Half Engin...
Other maintenance items I’ve done on this truck:
Fuel System:
-45% over sac nozzle injectors from LDS
-FASS Titanium Series Lift Pump: amzn.to/3eRGuUa
-Caterpillar 175-2949 Advanced High Efficiency Fuel Water Separator:amzn.to/3hA98Lc
-Caterpillar 1R0750 1R-0750 FUEL FILTER: amzn.to/3uVz73B
-AcDelco TP3018 Professional Fuel Filter with Seal: amzn.to/3hxO7kd
-OKAY MOTOR Fuel Pressure Regulator for 2001-2004 6.6L LB7: amzn.to/3n02izg
Oil filteration:
-Caterpillar 1R-1807 Oil Filter: amzn.to/3fnSImx
- 13/16"-16 to 1 1/8"-16 Oil Filter Adapter for Duramax CAT 1R-1807: amzn.to/3bwRgNo
Shocks:
- Bilstein (24-186735) 5100 Series Front Shock: amzn.to/3xlJSOG -Shock, 5100 Series, Monotube, Steel, Zinc Plated, Rear, GM Fullsize SUV/Truck 1999-2010: amzn.to/3l6O8wJ
Front End:
-Outer Moog ES3609 Tie Rod End: amzn.to/2S01U8v
-Inner Moog ES3488 Tie Rod End: amzn.to/3weN10Q
-Merchant Automotive 10012 Tie Rod Sleeve:amzn.to/3ftYVNN
-Moog K6654HD Pitman Arm, 1 Pack: amzn.to/3ygTyKh
- MOOG K6535HD Steering Idler Arm: amzn.to/3fofYRe
-Moog K6723 Idler Arm Bracket: amzn.to/2QrwpDT
Charging System:
- DB 130 Amp Alternator: amzn.to/3v4Zyne
- Dayco 5061123 Serpentine belt: amzn.to/3v1JT82
CV Axle:
-CV Axle Cardone 66-1325: amzn.to/32Kf4sd
Brake system:
-ABS Pump: - Genuine Parts 88935864 Brake Pressure Modulator Valve : amzn.to/3coW87i
-ABS Sensors: -ACDelco 19300584 Front Wheel Speed Sensor: amzn.to/3yMq1b1 Tools:
-Cardone 52-7359 Remanufactured Hydroboostt:amzn.to/3ymKjZk
-Dorman M630035 New Brake Master Cylinder: amzn.to/2Qs9V5R
-Dorman 919-254 Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit: amzn.to/3ylAk6c
-ACDelco 14D784MH Advantage Semi-Metallic Front Disc Brake Pad Set with Hardware amzn.to/3hvrZqD
-ACDelco Gold 17D909MH Semi-Metallic Rear Disc Brake Pad Set : amzn.to/3bwhT5i
-ACDelco 18A1193A Advantage Non-Coated Front Disc Brake Rotor: amzn.to/3uWf2tL
-ACDelco 18A1417 Professional Rear Drum In-Hat Disc Brake Rotor: amzn.to/2RrNKgn
- ACDelco 172-2406 GM Front Passenger Brake Caliper:amzn.to/3u1R8Mw
-ACDelco 172-2405 GM Original Equipment Front Driver Side Disc Brake Caliper Assembly amzn.to/2Surm44
-ACDelco 172-2405 GM Original Equipment Front Driver Side Disc Brake Caliper Assembly: amzn.to/3ykuDW7
-ACDelco 173-0551 GM Original Equipment Rear Driver Side Disc Brake Caliper Kit without Brake Pads or Bracket: amzn.to/3u4DdFv
-ACDelco 173-0552 GM Original Equipment Rear Passenger Side Disc Brake Caliper Kit without Brake Pads or Bracket: amzn.to/3opmH1g
Rear Diff Cover:
-Dorman 697-712 Rear Differential Cover: amzn.to/2Qtnyle
U-Joints:
ACDelco 45U0300 Professional U-Joint : amzn.to/3oqhRAT
Driveshaft Center Bearing
- Genuine GM Parts 88934865: amzn.to/3gvw3qi
Rear Bearings:
-ACDelco RW20-07 GM Original Equipment Rear Outer Wheel Bearing: amzn.to/3ylK14y
-ACDelco RW20-08 GM Original Equipment Rear Inner Wheel: amzn.to/33R3rjV
-ACDelco 291-319 GM Original Equipment Rear Axle Shaft Seal: amzn.to/3eQXRnX
Sensors:
Dorman 511-102 Transmission Range Sensor | 2001 LB7 Duramax / Allison 1000 Transmission: amzn.to/3fpzltb
Acceleration Pedal: GM Genuine Parts 19370277 APP: amzn.to/2RQ8m1R
Additives:
-Hot Shot's Secret FR3 Friction Reducer - 32 fl. oz: amzn.to/3hzguOU
-Hot Shot's Secret Stiction Eliminator 1 Qt (32 Oz): amzn.to/3v2kGeg
-Marvel Mystery Oil: amzn.to/3DGLbcC - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![THE TOYS x NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pPa1d5cC8M4/mqdefault.jpg)
THIS is the way videos need to be done! Thank you, Sir!
Thank you! 🍻
If in doubt, a little on the loose side is a lot better than too tight. I always run it down tight while spinning the hub, then back it off about 1/4 turn and go by feel from there.
I like the video, great editing, cut through the boring unnecessary stuff. Thanks
Thank you Massco!
Thanks i didnt have a clue how to do mine now i do
All I needed to do was replace 2 broken wheel studs on my 2008 Silverado 3500 HD Dually It appears I'm doing A Lot more than that! lol
Great video, Thank you!
Lol, yeah there are a few steps! Thanks Randal 🍻
Question, what would normal heat range be on the hub. Thanks 🙏🏽
Song Jams brother. Solid Vid.
Thanks!
Wish your grandpa taught me how to work on cars. He just said. “You’ll figure it”.
I did. I took it to people that knew how to fix it.
Its one of the many reasons why TH-cam is so great!
Good vid Koosh! I have the 2004 LLY Duramax 3500 dually crew, best truck I ever owned. Getting ready to do the brakes all around, also a 1992 F-350 dually crew 7.3 stick. I noticed your double yellow fuel filters in front of the duals you worked on. Did you do a video on installing that? Getting ready to install a new filter with pump, tranny filters and all. That secondary set would be nice too. Just turn over 80,000 miles on it, looks new, and 203,000 on the Ford. Just haul the horses and boats with that, the F-350's the work truck.
Thanks Cap! Ah yes, the yellow CAT filters on my lift pump. I actually installed the lift pump before I started doing youtube videos on truck maintenance. Its one of the inspirations for creating these videos in the first place: to contribute back to the youtube community for all the help over the years. That said @Truck Master has a really good install video and there are a couple other ones out there too. It is pretty straight forward. The FASS lift pump kit comes with all the instructions, hoses, adapters and electronics to make it happen. You'll plumb into the existing send and return fuel lines under the truck by the fuel cooler > mount the pump to the frame in front of the drivers side rear tire (brackets included) > cut the fuel fill tube > splice in the provided adapter/ fuel return fitting > then run the wire connector up to the fuse box in the truck engine bay. My buddy just got an Air Dog Lift pump which is basically the same thing, I might do an install on that one. Anywho, sounds like you have a couple good work horse trucks my friend! those old 7.3s just keep on working no matter how much you throw at it and the Duramax is an absolutely fantastic platform for anything a guy needs. I'm installing new head gaskets, studs, and 45 over SAC injectors after I finish writing. Cheers!
Thanks, good video, very useful...
Thank you for watching 🍻
Awsum video buddy. 👆👆👌👌👌👌. Thank you
Thanks man! 🍻
Great video no magic tricks 👍🏾
Thanks Willie!
That’s what the kooshdaakaa wants you to think
I went in looking for the 'leaky brake cylinder'. And found a sloppy seal on the inside. Appreciate the vid, and especially the links. 1996 Chevy Silverado 3500 2X4.
Glad I could help and glad you got it fixed! 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Still at it. Been trying to loosen the bearing with pen fluid. Last night I tried to cut it, got the rolling bearings off, but not the sleeve. Didn't like grinding so close to my axle. So I am gonna look at heat or a puller.
@deleaud I had a similar issue a few years ago when the bearing failed and heated up. The race was not budging for nothing. Ultimately my buddy brought over "mommas purse" an electric jackhammer he used to break up cement... that got it out no problem. Since then I bought an air hammer 😬 good luck! Those things can be a pain.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Thanks again, took another look and pulling isn't an option. Not enough ridge for anything. Going after it with a new dremmel blade. Fingers crossed.
For the record, I cut the bastard off today. I went in diagonally, opened up a valley, smacked it with a wedge and off it popped! Thanks again! It has been a stress-full week.
The bearings are in an oil bath shared by the differential, why grease them?
call me paranoid but greased bearings is never a bad thing 🍻
A thin coating of grease will suffice till oil gets flung out to hub no need to pack them completely
Love the channel name
Thanks brudda 🤘👹
I don’t have a socket that large, do you know what size it is?
Its a "spindle nut socket" for Chevy/GMC. 6lugx2-5/8. Sure makes the job a lot easier!
What's size is that spindle socket?
Where can I get one
Gregorio, thank you for the question! I have a link to that spindle socket in the description for ya 🍻
Uh oh i forgot to count threads upon disassembly..got any recommendations?
I suppose I will know I'm close when I'm a few threads in, and also able to line up the hole for the dowel pin to slide in.
@@richieschmidt6225 Hey Richie, I think the torque spec on that rear axle nut is 55LB if I'm remember correctly. Though I gotta admit that cranking an axle nut socket with a torque wrench is kind of a pain due to the awkward angles. As long as you oil your seal, rotate the axle while you are tightening the nut you should be fine. Keep checking to make sure there is no wobble in hub and that the hub doesn't take anymore or less force to keep the hub spinning as it does to get it spinning in the first place. You should be fine. Good luck!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Thanks for the reply! I actually did some more research after my comments and found the torque procedure (52ft lb then break free and install dowel pin / key to next closest slot) so I think everything will be OK!
Why not replace the brake shoes
They were still pretty new at this point. Newish rotors, calipers, hard brake lines, master cylinder and hydroboost too.
How do you get the race and outter bearing out
I actually just recorded a bearing replacement video that I'll have out soon! I used a hammer and punch to tap it out 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGarage that’s funny I just did bearing replacement this morning glad I did. the rotor around the studs where cracked
Part number of seal???
Here you go Adam! GM Genuine Parts 291-319 Rear Axle Shaft Seal : amzn.to/2QBKpuv
I got no sound
Duh. Turn the volume up
Lol
you dont pack the bearings in prevents the gear oil from lubing them and burns our your bearings no need for grease
pretty sure I addressed that in your last comment. Did you delete your last comment? I'll type it again... I'll be sure to let you know if or when it fails. I packed grease in the other bearing 6 years ago and am still waiting for it to fail. So when or if it does I'll make a video discussing the dangers of packing your oil bath bearings with grease. The few times I've removed the axle or the hub, the bearings look exactly the way they did 6 years prior. My bearings are always cool to the touch even after hours and hours of hard driving. The axle is also cool to the touch too due to the additive I use. So although I understand the concept of oil not passing through grease, so far I have not been able to prove that greasing your oil bath bearings causes premature failure due to excessive heat. However, if the bearings were to get hot enough the heat would simply melt/lower the viscosity of the grease and incorporate it into the gear oil. My grandpa has been doing this with his log truck for 40 years and hasn't had a bearing fail due to greasing oil bath bearings so it may be a while before I'm able to create that video I mentioned. So be sure to subscribe and hold tight, you may get your video yet. There is one thing that doesn't add up though. There are plenty of non oil bath bearings that are only greased. Oil never passes through them and they do not burn up because of lack of oiling because they are greased. So why would the addition of an oil bath cause bearing to burn up?
A little to fast for me.
So pause and rewind? Lmao
This shit sucks. Don't use a "belt sander" to clean the sealing surface!