@CrainialCommando You really don't want to print complex parts in a single go as you don't have a good way to place the supports. Things being cut up is not always to make them fit but more about how to orientate them.
@@J3DTech También separas las piezas para poder procesar con mas calidad y poder pintar mas fácil. Por cierto excelente video, me gusto mucho, muy detallado. También me gustaría saber las diferencias reales de comprar la M3 Max o M7 Max.
@@jumagomos Thank you, the main differences are: The build quality is better, the lighting engine is way better, the Force sensor, and the new firmware to take advantage of the Force sensor.
I learn much more off of you than any of the more animated reviewers, I switched to lychee+ because of your series of videos and I’m very happy with it I will probably buy this rig now. thanks again..
My M7 Pro also had a not so flat buildplate. I mailed Anycubic with my findings, they sent me a new buildplate for free. That one was also not so flat. So I sanded the first buildplate on a very flat natural stone surface. It works like a charm now. I also use your builtplate leveling design piece. I really love it.
Crazy that this is still an issue which was present all the way back with their Photon Mono X which came out in 2020 I believe. Goes to show Anycubic just doesn't care and which is why I avoid their products.
Great presentation of an interesting printer! I know it might be overdone, but is there a chance of you making a video of recommended printers for different sizes? It's hard to trust most YTers out there, but your videos are always so detailed and well done without any hype or bs.
Thank you! Yes I do plan to do more printes in this same format. This one took the longest as I had to develop some of the ways I want to test it. I do hope to only get better as I go on. I have more work to do on The Revo, M7-Pro and S4U. These printers are interesting and have caused A LOT of issues and even delay getting updates from the manufacturer. I'll also be doing the GK2 and GK3. As far as Very small printers I do plan on doing the Mars 5 Ultra and the 8ks. Maybe the Anycubic Mono 4 Ultra. We will see, I'm still doing 1 video a week on the Lychee Slicer youtube as well so I need to make sure I leave some time to keep living 🙃
Incredible review and thanks for all your work. I own a M3 Max, but now I want a M7 max 😅 For that pre-order price i moght just add it beside the M3 Max 🤔😁
Absolutely stellar review. This is my 4th Anycubic printer, starting off with the Photon Ultra, moving to the M3 Max, then the M5S Pro, and received this on the pre-order list just a short time ago. And absolutely love it. To the point that my other printers (including the Photon Mighty 8K) are now just sitting while this workhorse takes over everything. And love the in-depth details you went into about the options and settings. I also leveled this with the vat in place and it's made quite a difference in my success rates overall. I was getting some failures on the edges, which got me worried. However, I went ahead and re-leveled with the vat in place and it's been banging prints out left and right since. I was wondering if you have taken "advantage" of the pre-drilled exhaust hole and paired it with something like the Mars Mate? I have a complete enclosure system in the garage - grow tent and ventilation - that the printers all sit in, but was actually wondering if the Mars Mate system with this printer helps at all. Keep up the great work as always! I refer to a lot of my friends and family who are getting into this hobby to your reviews and advice on printing and they all appreciate the work you put into this.
@@psychoskin67 Thank you! My first printer was also an Anycubic the Mono x 6k a fantastic printer. I've never used the exhaust port but that's because my printers are in a well vented room.
This was an incredible review, I'm so sad that I'm im now just discovering your channel! That heated vat is awesome and im pretty tempted to get this printer. I wish the pixel size was closer to 30micron though. Im pretty certain the heated vat and the "smart" wait times are going to make me finally upgrade fromy Epax E10.
@@GrayGryphon I have an Epax10 8k this printer is much better. I've been trying to convince Anycubic to release an upgraded LCD. We will see. But with AA you can get it to do better then it data suggests.
I agree on the power level availability. I've needed to really hack my layer exposure and light off times with an engineering resin on my Mono X 6Ks printers. It would have been handy to be able to reduce the light intensity rather than stepping down the exposure time and increasing the light off delay. I still think that the M7 Pro is going to be my replacement for the 6Ks units next month since the 10.1" size provides what I need for both my engineering work and my minis and terrain. Oh, and Fresnel is pronounced "fren-ell". Nit-picky, I know, but ...
@@RocktCityTim Yes my EPAX has a pot screw and I use this to calibrate the printer to the way I like it to print. That way I could keep the same resin profile over multiple printers and they all run at 30 um at 1.8 seconds and it makes life a little easier. I didn't really address this but if you can tell in the video I kind of cut out where I talk about the middle resins. I felt the session was just too long in fact through the editing process, I assume 50% of the video is cut because it just felt like it was less about the printer itself and more about relevant information. Data applies to the printer but more about 3D printing.
that's a really nice printer, I wish the pixel size was around 30 microns because I print 30 micron layers and the idea of cube voxels makes me happy, but the quality still seems to be great despite 46 microns I'll keep the M7 Max in mind if my Saturn 3 dies, I like the lack of auto-leveling and the built-in hanger
One thing to point out which I have NEVER seen mentioned. If you are printing something big and heavy do not turn off the power or the plate may drop down with the weight and damage your print bit more important that big $$ screen. Sometimes if it is late I put a ruler or something to jam the plate and close it up till morn. Jealous they did not send me one. I have had good success with some of their printers and this looks good. I did have issues but there support was great.
@@irishlightandmagic I've not seen where goes down when you drop the power I'll look into that. And as I stayed in my video, this wasn't sent to me to do a review one. They didn't ask me to do a review or anything. In fact they didn't even tell me they were sending it. It was just out of blue one day they're like. Oh yeah, we need you to look at it from a technical perspective before it goes live to find any bugs and give advice. But I saw it as a good opportunity to showcase a printer that I thought was really really well built and I was very happy with.
If they release M7 Max with higher resolution or if they provide a screen upgrade kit so I can get 25-30um details im gone buy it asap. I already have the M7 Pro but I would love to make larger functional prints so I can actually get prints with good layer adhesion in all directions and that look like injection molding parts and not continue to use my Creality K1 Max ( I don't mind if put more work to get better quality parts that fit exactly and can actually print intricate models with no problem). I don't want to buy GK3 Ultra cause it's way to expensive and also it doesn't have intelligent release which is a really nice feature if you want to get fast, dimensional acurate and insanelly detailed print parts (abs-like and though new generation resins are a lot more accesible this days and am not willing to buy very expensive fdm printer filaments which will never result in a print with great level of detail).
Im definitly buying one, my M3 Max is amazing but it´s very slow. I will still use my M3 but the M7 will definitly be my main printer! Great review btw!
I watched your video and decided to upgrade to the M7 MAX from the Mono X! I have a quick question: Does the M7 MAX come with a pre-installed screen protector (Not the proactive film during unboxing) ? I received my printer today and noticed a layer with air bubbles on the LED screen, leading me to believe it might be a pre-applied protector.
Really wish there were more reviews for the regular M7, I change resins alot so having a pump and pump based heater like on the M7 Pro is literally a waste of money for me. 👍
@J3DTech Good to know! I think I will go with the regular M7 as that way I will get the vat I want while having to pay less. Only other difference between that and the pro seems to only be a bit weaker light source. Any update on the manual Z-offset for these machines as I also find it quite useful?
That would be GREAT for the LCD. Right now I cut a square out of the larger roll to clean off the LCD before I put the VAT back on. This smaller roll would make this SUPER easy!
I didn't know your channel, but I already subscribed! Great analysis! Congratulations! One question: where can I get the leveler you used?! I have an Elegoo and I've been struggling to level it.
@@carlosrodrigues3390 Thank you! I have all my stuff on my Cults account and the link is in the video description. Everything is free I'll never charge for anything.
Well, it seems to be an interesting machine but the 46um is what worries me a bit, especially when the GK Three Ultra exists (same size but somewhere around 24um if my memory serves me well). Yes, the GK3 Ultra is also much more expensive but as someone who is about to start up his 3D design/printing studio I am in the "twilight zone" and can't decide which printer to go for (for both large prints and minis).... But the M7 Max does look promising!
From what you've seen so far with the M7 max, would you suggest it for professional use (print medium to large prints - some of which have fine detail) or should I pick another printer?
@@J3DTech After some research I think I will go with the M7 Max (fingers crossed they will also release a LCD upgrade at some point). I will print mostly large scale statues and terrain. Even the miniatures I saw online (printed on the M7 Max) weren't bad at all. I will test it myself and if the mini quality isn't what I am looking for, I think I will also buy the Mono 4 Ultra.
I love that the print will stop going to the top but i think it could be done better like elegoo did. On my M7 (non pro or max) If i try to go up 50mm but its only 49mm to the top, it will give the error and not move instead of just going 49 and stopping. I would rather it be like my Saturn 4 Ultra, In the same scenario, it will just go up 49mm and stop. I hate getting 49mm away, then having to switch to 10mm, go up 4 times, then go to 1mm and going up 9mm to get all the way to the top.
@@TylerTroglen What did Elegoo do? My Saturn 4 Ultra and Mars 5 Ultra will both crash at the top. Unless they updated it since last I checked. But on the Max if I keep pressing up on 50mm it will give me an alert exceeded upper limit. It will then go to the very top but not crash. I did not show this in the review I should have kept that bit.
@@J3DTech It must have been updated in firmware ( I've only had mine for 1.5 months) You can use 50mm even if you are 1-49.99mm away, it just goes whatever amount, beeps and stops on mine at the top. My M7 on the other hand will just stay 49mm away while giving the error if the amount entered is too far. I was confused on the M7 and thought to myself, Why wouldn't they let it go all the way to the top at first before i figured out i had to change down to 10mm and 1mm increments to get all the way to the top.
wanted to get me the pro , it basically has all i need, BUT the vat form really bothered me, the 7m max solution is def better ! u think the m7pro is alot faster than the m7 max?
Speed = the resin and the quality you want. Not much the printer at all. But overall you don't need to lift as high on a smaller printer so they can be a bit faster.
Does the off compensation work the other way as well? As in if it doesn't feel pressure from viscous resin will it shorten the light off delay? I currently have mine set to 7 seconds delay in the slicer but just checked my print and only seems to be doing a delay of a second
Very interested to see the light uniformity comparisons! One Question: The Saturn 3 Ultra looked so bad in comparison to the others - more than 40% variability! but your review of the Saturn 3 U was very positive. Does that mean the light uniformity comparison graph is not as big a deal as it looked?
@@n0f8r Both are true. 1. I did not have this data at the time and I still think that the S3U is the best Saturn on the market and a good step in the correct direction. Sadly the S4 went Auto leveling. 2. It depends on what you're printing and your resin. If you don't care about really high accurate parts and you're not using really highly accurate resin, you might not be able to tell the difference. Or if you're doing engineering parts or high accuracy? Resins, those differences in the LCD can be the difference between successive and failure or out of spec and inspect.
@@J3DTech thanks! my Saturn 2 stepper failed, and wondering if it's worth repairing or should just upgrade to S3U - I also don't like the auto-leveling build plate of the S4U. S3U Ball screw instead of lead screw, and 4-point level platform seemed nice - but that light uniformity really concerns me. I'd love to see a video specifically on Light Uniformity comparing more printers and going into a bit more detail on how bad the problems with poor uniformity can get!
@@n0f8r That's my plan in the future but it's a very hard thing to get objective data on. I'll need to develop a methodology and then apply it to all the printers in a way that's visual yet easy and quick to understand. If your ok with a smaller printer look at the new Anycubic M4 Ultra
@@J3DTech actually Jan Mrázek did a fantastic blog post (Dec '22) on the topic, and built an impressive open source custom machine with software that plots a heat map of the whole print surface, but he's only got 2 resin printers I think. It would be amazing if someone built his machine and applied it to a whole bunch of printers.
Thank you for the review. I currently use an EPAX e10 8k and thinking about adding a second printer. This one looks great but I don't need the build volume. I hate to ask but what would you recommend after this on that does not have self leveling, like you I am not o fan of self leveling. Thank you for all your effort giving to the community.
@@fs360llc9 If your looking for another in the 10" size I would recommend the Phrozen Mega 8k or wait a bit longer for the the next generation of Uniformation
@J3DTech just got the M7 Max, and noticed the resin heater is only for pre-heating, which is not very useful for me because my printing room is often below 10C in Winter. Posted about it on Reddit and Facebook and got several replies to the effect that the power supply is not big enough to run the heater and the printer at the same, but also one reply from someone saying they spoke to you - and that you said you had a beta firmware version that heated throughout the print - is that true?
would you recommend this for 1/4 figures? I have now the Apex X1 but I'm not sure how long it will last. This M7 is nice but seems it lacks detail. Maybe the GK 3 ultra is a better option or maybe going down to something like the new Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra 16k or Nova3d 16k. What do you think?
@@OctavioAlonsoHernández I can't currently recommend the GK3U at this time. It's having major issues. The 16k LCD is not what you want either. It adds 0 details as the resin can't even do much better then 8k. But the file sizes and slicing time on 16 are insane! Not to mention the motherboard can't always process the data during the print and you get some major issues. Honestly If you want a good printer avoid the following. 16K LCD on any screen smaller than 13". Auto leveling A built in heater with no ability to control the temps. This rules out almost everything on the market ATM. Strange times we live in ..
@@christianortiz3738 I have a video going over settings on the lychee slicer TH-cam. Go check that out. As for leveling this printer I'm going to make a dedicated video and release it to help users with this or other larger printers.
Hi. Did you try to measure flatness of the build plate while it is heated?. On some machines not printers if you measure some surfaces they are bowed but when they are in working/designed temperature the surface will be more or less flat.
@@packe93 I have this information in my guide under the AA Section. You will find my guide in the description. It has everything about resin 3d printing.
@@n6e6k6o I had to do something to keep it under that $1,000 price point. It does make me wonder if they Will release an upgraded LCD at anytime in the future
The Apex Maker X1 has a UV matrix 2 to 2.5 X more powerful than anything else on the market today,. It can also almost re-slice a file on the go if you wanted to say change the layers height from 50um to 100um!! Its normal exposure time for resins like elegoo abs or anycubic abs is 1.1s and for fast resin it 0.5.. The Apex uses TSP film aka HDF and I've had no problems with stretching and have actually lowered the lifting height from 6mm down to 5mm.. It also has a build plate bigger than this and bigger than the Mega 8k it has made my M3 MAX, Mega 8k, Mega 8k V2, and Jupiter all obsolete like we hardly bother with them anymore!! They are not losing money the Apex Maker wipes the floor with this and it's only £1650 and £350 of that is going to be shipping.. It's only Phrozen that charges you £3500 for a printer no better than anyone else, I still can't believe how crap the Mega 8k is and the V2 what a joke...
@@dariorseventyeight They are looking into it. It it depends on what you're trying to do with UV tools. Anycubic printers don't allow you to set different wait time per layer. At least not at this time. Maybe in the future?
@@J3DTech I need to print directly on the build plate. Besides the initial blank layers for the Z off-set, I need to set custom waiting times before cure for some layers (not just the bottom ones) with high surface to let the resin stop moving. With high viscosity resin and such a large build plate, I see this being a potential issue.
Derek, Can you confirm if there is no way to manually adjust the Z-height of the home position on the M7 Max? There’s a "Move to Home" button and a button for leveling, but there doesn’t seem to be an option to set the "home" position after manually adjusting it. On your level calibration prints, I’m getting consistent results, but the "1mm groove" appears slightly thicker, and I’d like to adjust the home position. I see no way to do this and was hoping you could confirm. Thanks!
@@jsgcustom2138 Right now there is no way to set the Z offset. It's still something I'm trying to get Anycubic to add in. How much over are you? Being a little over or under is just fine.
@@J3DTech On average, I’m getting about 1.2mm on the four corners. There is a slight bow in the build plate, creating a larger gap in the center. At this point, I haven’t been able to get a successful print of the “boxes of calibration” in the center with a burn-in layer exposure time of 35 seconds. The first layer of the boxes never sticks to the plate. I’d like to lower the build plate by 0.2 to 0.4mm to see if I can get it to stick in the center. This is such an important feature, and I can’t believe new printers don’t come with it from the beginning. I could try increasing the burn-in layer exposure time, but I think that’s the wrong “solution” to the problem. Thanks for confirming that the manual Z-offset is not present on this machine currently.
@@J3DTech Yes, that was going to be my plan. I'll push a little harder when leveling and try to narrow the gap a little. I may clean the resin out of the vat prior to leveling and see what that does. Thanks again for confirming no way to set the Z offset. I wanted to make sure I wasn't looking past it.
Any suggestions for bottom exposure time? I've always been time you didn't want to go over 30-35 seconds because it's bad for the screen but I'm having trouble getting stuff to stick to plate
@@JrodsRabbitry How long you have to expose the bottom layers has to do with your layer thickness, resin, temps and the UV power of the the UV array in your printer. Setting a very long "wait before print" time will also allow you to lower the bottom UV exposure time. But often this requires the use of UV tools. In the end do what works for you.
@@JrodsRabbitry 40s seems a tiny bit high but not horrible. How much light off dealy are you using? The M7Max is using 6s on the bottom and I'm working with them in a firmware update to force 10s. This SHOULD help you reducie this number.
Can you let Anycubic know the heater for the m7 pro is not dynamic it preheats only but will not maintain temp during a print id imagine it’s the same with the max as well as the standard 7 we need dynamic active heat during a print 🥶🥶🥶🥶
When I pulled the data from the heater I saw that it was keeping the temps consistante over the entire print. There is always a spike for the burn in, then a small drop of where the heater isnt running then it will stabilize for the rest of the print. I'll need to run some tests on the M7Pro to confirm as well, but in my Z tower prints, there is no evidence of a temp drop over the print on the M7Pro. The Z calibraion print should measure thicker at the bottom then the top if there was a temp drop over the print. That said, sounds like I've got more testing and work to add to my board. 😆
I loved your review! thank you. How would you compare it to the M7 Pro? I bought the M7 Pro but still haven't taken it out of the box yet. I heard issues with the splattering of the resin when the build plate lifts and I'm concerned about that. Also, concerned about the cleaning of the Vat. I was planning on selling it to get the Information GK2... but seeing this unit has he on a halt. Can you please address my concerns etc? Thank you. ... looking forward to your next video!
I have the M7 Pro and it is a good printer. I've never experienced any splashing so I'm not entirely sure where that's coming from. It could be people using their printer way too fast? The max has speed limits built into the first 50 layers. That should prevent that. Overall, I would say this is one of the better built printers that I've I've handled since the M3 premium, which still to this day is my favorite printer that is a medium sized. This of course is a large size printer so it's a slightly different category. I think the biggest selling point of this printer is going to be its build quality, its size and it's price. There are printers that are the size that have a higher resolution LCD but either their build quality isn't quite as good or their price is significantly higher. So it really depends on what you're looking for on which ones right for you.
@J3DTech How would you rate the M7 pro? Is the resin vat hard to clean? I'm really wanting a printer that is turnkey and easy to clean and has a heater as I've in Canada. I just to know if there is a better option before I unbox the m7 pro that I have. Thank you again.
Also, is there a way to slow the rising build plate so it doesn't hit the top and splatter. I've read articles where that has happened. I see in you m7 max review that that can be adjusted in the phone app.
@jameskelleher467 Now process to slow it down. But you can select if you want it to go up after the print is finished or not. I've asked for a hanger button to be added on the print finished screen. This way there would be no real need for this.
@jameskelleher467 I found it a bit difficult to clean. But you only need to clean it if you change your resin to something quite different. You can also use the M7 VAT on the MB Pro.
I just watch the intro to the new GK3 and GK3 Pro. I thought this was going to be a no-brainer, but after seeing this review, I am no further a head in my search for my first resin printer. I was about to go with the GKTwo but wanted to wait to see this review. I'm not really wanting a large printer. I'm fine with a medium printer. But I do like the heater in the M7 Max but not the screen. (I dont like the M7 Pro, so that one is out) The regular M7 with the plug in heater could do, but I like the flip lid like the GKTwo and M7 Max..Aaarrrgghh. Can you or anyone help me with the best option I should be looking at? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
@@jameskelleher467 First look at the cost of these printers and see what's within the budget. Then from there think why do you want a big printer and then find out which one fits you? And that should answer your question in the end. They're all great printers.
@J3DTech thank you getting back to me so quickly. All costs aside. Which one would you prefer? On paper there is a large gap between the m7 and the max but in reality is there a big difference?
@jameskelleher467 I would say it really depends on what you're going to print. Are you trying to make toys or do you want to make art? If you're making toys, the M7 Max is the perfect printer. If you're trying to make art, you might want to wait for something like the GK3 Pro.
@@jameskelleher467 The M7 Max will let you print bigger and with AA voles will be bailey noticable on something like a nose or the top of the head. GK3 Ultra is 2x the cost and you will have a smaller volex in the same places. Harder to see but still there. G3Pro or M7 will be very similar but smaller and cheaper. All great options
hi, do you know what size the ACF Film is? it doesnt seem to be listed on the website and the chatbot has no idea either and i cant seem to find a clear answer on google about it. its just showing the smaller M7 Pro models
It's the same as the M3 Max. I buy my nFEP in a big roll that I cut to shape. This makes it cheaper and a 1 size fits all option. I have links in my guide for the toll I use. The stuff I get is 300mmw by 1000mm long. This will fit most any printer. www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802836288548.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.44861d2ag2UnKb&algo_pvid=5fb7ee15-3ead-408f-9830-1836938e82b3&algo_exp_id=5fb7ee15-3ead-408f-9830-1836938e82b3-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2132.88%2126.96%21%21%2132.88%21%21%402101f49c17022329270716598ea569%2112000028640173249%21sea%21US%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=XzPbGV5uTqoc
@@markmcguire6984 Yours will preheat only, this is something I learned just the other day that I'm running a beta Firmware that's not quite ready for full release. This was an accident on Anycubics part 😂 but soon there will be a release for everyone to run the heater during the print. They need to make sure it won't affect the UV power.
@J3DTech I was thinking that, as I watched the temperature drop as I was running the test print, I'll wait for the firmware update before I run a full print so, thanks for the fast reply
Hi there, Amazing video-super professional! I’m just getting started with creating TH-cam videos, and I’d love to use your calibration test file in a review article and an accompanying TH-cam video. Would that be okay with you? Of course, I’ll be sure to credit your channel in my content. Best regards, Manuel
I already have the Elegoo Jupiter original.... and im surprised that this is the same in micron height? 3 years later? still about 0.48um.... I was hoping this would hit in the 0.38um range so it would be a day 1 purchase for sure
Anycubic tropiezan mucho con la misma piedra, Anycubic debería crear un departamento de calidad que se comunique con los usuarios y así aprender de sus errores.
great video. Can you tell me whether M3 MAX VATs fit to the M7 Max? it seems to be pretty similar but can you tell me what is the spacing between mounting holes?
hey J3d, With my Uniformation gktwo meeting its end today, vat stuck to plate and kept lifting until the legs snaped, resin getting everywhere including electronics. I'm in the market for new printers. I'm looking for something similar or smaller than the GKtwo and want it to be as hands off experience as it could be. With my research being mostly 1 year old now, and so many printers releasing this month: heygears, m7max, mono 4, mono 4 ultra, mars 5 ultra, saturn 3/4 ultra etc . What do you recommend . Im in the south, hence temp control is not a requirement. Note I used to normally use Tough + abs like v2 from anycubic. But have moved to Waterwashable + from sunlu, but might go to Water washable ABS from ancubic soon ( also used INlan, but i bought all the stuck in my local microcenter)
@@KevinHernandez-e5u What are you printing? That's the biggest thing. The printer can only work as well as the resin and the water washable resin is terrible in my opinion. It is much more brittle warps a lot more on the shelf and if you didn't know this, it is just or even sometimes more toxic than the other resins. If your reason for using that is simply because it's hard for you to obtain the chemicals required for cleaning other resins that make sense but for any other reason I could not ever recommend using it. As for the printer, I would stay away from The Saturn IV or the Mars 5. This is because they come with the new auto leveling systems that has no auto leveling in it and no ability for you to manually level the build plate. This makes these printers unbelievably unreliable with no viable workaround. If you're looking for a solid printer that will just work that is smaller than your current one, I would really look at the mini 8ks or the Mono 4 Ultra . If you're okay with keeping with about the same size, I would look at the M7, not the m7 Pro but the normal M7. The Revo is also a good printer but kind of expensive but it is built very very solid.
@@J3DTech currently printing mostly Dnd figurines and War hammer proxies.. It's good you mention this as on the saturn as it was my current #1 runner up (saturn 4 ultra) as it went on sale today ($399) prior to this i was looking at the mono 4 ultra ( 259) , i see ne M5s pro is also on sale ( 299.99) and the m7 max is about to be released . They hey gears went out of the intro price, and now is out of budget
@KevinHernandez-e5u The ones I mentioned should work great for you on those types of prints. You're going to love the quality of what you get off of it and working with them is going to be a lot easier than some of these other ones. Especially if you've already been 3D printing for a while, you understand how to do it. I think the Saturn IV ultra's main selling point is that a lot of the settings have been removed so it's easier for new users. And I think that it would be a very good printer had they simply Left out all that auto leveling stuff that ended up making it a very frustrating. Very expensive printer to run due to the massive amount of wasted resin you get from trying to print using it out of level build plate.
@@J3DTechJ3D, on the Saturn 4 Ultra leveling issue (also should apply to the Mars 5 Ultra with similar build plate), I thought I saw a TH-camr (can’t remember who, maybe Ross/Fauxhammer?) show that the build plate can be manually adjusted (ie. leveled). Of the 8 screws on top of the build plate, the four inner screws can be adjusted for leveling the build plate. The suggested action is to, like usual for 4-point leveling, place a piece of paper on screen (screen is in the default flat position), lower the build plate until it just touches the paper, pull on each corner of the paper, feeling for even resistance on the paper. If not even resistance on one or more corners, then adjust the related top-inner screw until you have even tension when pulling the paper at the four corners of the build plate. Once set, it’s recommended to mark each of the four screws’ position with a sharpie and use some Loctite to hold these four screws in position. I’d be interested to know your thoughts on the above manual leveling for these two Elegoo Ultra printers.
@dovmerrill804 So these screws are not designed to be loose. A TH-camr discovered if you do the springs may have a little less tension and give you a more even spread. However the screws can move during the print because they are no longer tight using LockTight can help however this doesn't fix the issue. The issue is that the springs will still. Well spring back into position as soon as the pressure is released. And the pressure must be released to allow for the resin to fill the gap. The Mars 5 Ultra does have the same issue but it's not as bad because the smaller size.
@@ROBOROBOROBOROBO Nope and I'm happy for that. The tilting mechanism gives you faster prints but at a cost. Accuracy and a higher failure rate. And some strange things. The Saturn 4U and Mars 5u is good for some things but very bad at others.
Hi there! You have some great videos! I have a question which you or someone who reads this perhaps could shed some light on. I'm strugglin to decide for the M7 regular or S4U as my new printer. The only thing holding me back from the S4U is that i can't find any intell on weither the 'auto level' system could result in less dimensional accuracy. Even when not printing directly on the buildplate. As in; if supports aren't accurate, would that also effect the accuracy of the model that's supported? If anyone could share some insights on that would be really great!
@@J3DTech yeah i didn't explain it well, i meant the S4U springloaded build plate to be precise, which you can't officially level if needed. So since i'll mostly print functional parts that plate system was a concern. The M7 looks like a great printer with great sensing features, and, a build-plate which one can level :) Thanks for your response! Very much appreciated. If you have any Anycubic affiliatelinks i'll be happy to use it
Hmm. Just now tried the same test moving the plate all the way to the top, and it did NOT stop and give me a notification. It kept grinding like the old days. Doesn't make sense. Latest firmware updated today.
Two Stage Motion Control Read about it here docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit?tab=t.0#bookmark=kix.lwi0v9cdziw9
Hello, the product has just arrived and I tested it with excitement but I couldn't print it. I saw some pieces falling off and some pieces sticking but the majority fell off the tray. Can you help if you have any information on why this might be happening?
@ I don't think so, the box was quite intact and undamaged. I keep getting test prints, but it presses on the back but not on the front and I can't understand why.
@@sedefoz3673 Oh sorry you mean the print. I thought you were saying the printer had pieces falling off of it. Yes, I can offer assistance. But TH-cam chat is not the place for this. The best place would be to reach out to me on Discord
@@Trident_Media7104 It absolutely will help. They are not they deep and starting with a higher grit and a plate of glass or granite will get it down pretty fast. But this is the one Area I would like Anycubic to look into on their line. I don't see why it is an issue in the first place.
@@J3DTech Thanks for the fast reply, the girlfriend and I want a large 3d resin printer as the FDM isn't cutting it for D&D terrain and minis anymore. We were debating to pre-order this. I think if we could lap the build plate that would be good, but for the price i'd rather it came with a perfectly level bed 🤦♂
@Trident_Media7104 I think it's kind of luck of the draw. I have one build plate for my M7 Pro that's flat and another that's not. It's not the worst thing to fix and if you use a MAG plate then it doesn't matter either. I would love to give every printer a shining review and not have any butts but every single printer has a butt. This one I think has two. One of them is by design. That's the lower um LCD. The other one is the build plate. Outside of that I would say it's damn near a perfect printer.
I do, there is a video there a story there I have been trying to find out how to tell for 3 months. It's why my Revo Part 2 review is taking soooo long.
Asking around trying to get an answer before I pull the trigger on something this expensive. Does the heater maintain the temp throughout the build? The store page says the heater stops when the build begins, so implies pre-heat only. Is this correct?
@@briankito1655 It keep it going in the review I did 3 print where I pulled the temps and I provided the graphs. Without the heater. With the heater And with the heater and a larger print that generated a lot of heat.
@@J3DTech Thanks for the reply. That's what I thought from this excellent review, but the store page seems to contradict it so thought I'd ask. Thanks again!
@@xephorce I've been pushing them on this topic since over 3 months now. It's all I can say is that I know that they're looking into it but I haven't heard anything official
@@J3DTech that just backs up what I heard. so that gives me hope they are. its really going to come down to how much support they get from us on this printer. its got to sale well enough to justify R&D on there side. I just really hope this gets longer support then the M3 version of this one did. Fingers crossed this does the amazing things I want and need it for. I told a few people I was think about getting this monster and one of them is already asking for things to be printed he alone might end up covering the cost of this printer for me lol. he is wanting a few 7-inch dark souls figures printed and the helmit of Sauron. So I'm feeling good about my purchase. lets just hope its as good once I get my hands on it.
I don't understand why they would release this printer with such a low resolution. There is so little competition in large-scale printers that there is nothing to choose practically at the moment. If they released a better high-resolution screen, they could get a nice piece of market.
@@88RunnerBlade I do agree, but they really wanted to keep the price lower. A 14K LCD adds a very high cost. That said I've asked them many times to offer an upgraded version.
3:41 "I don't want my printer to become ugly because of spills, so i'll make it ugly with tape and protective film" there is logic behind it, but it's still funny
@@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov 🤣 Yeah see but the spills never come off and remain sticky. This stuff I can remove if I want to take a picture and the printer is always in peak operating business.
@@J3DTech my S4U lid is already as dirty as hell while i didn't spill anything on it, and yeah it feels like that resin dissolves acrylic and eats it's way inside because it is possible to scrape majority of it off, but droplets are still there, i guess only sanding and clear coating will fix that
@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov Yep, it's crazy how it just bonds to it. It doesn't have to be cured. The second it touches it. It's chemically now part of the cover. Forever...
@@mysteriousfox88 There are quite a few upgrades in the lighting engine and firmware. I wanted to go deeper into the type of railway used but I'm finding it hard to gets details so I could give a more objective validation. So I ended up cutting that part. I'm working on gathering more information and educating myself in these topics so I can inform the buyer in the quality of the z-screw as being a ball screw isn't always better if it's a lower quality. As far as the LCD I agree as 12k or 14k would have been better at this size and I think the only thing holding this printer back from being absolutely amazing. But they are looking into it.
I just bought this monster and only after the fact have I realized that it donest have a screen protector. the specs say it has a "Protection film Replaceable anti-scratch film." I guess my brain took that to mean screen protector. so now I'm gonna have to order a thing of screen protectors for $22 plus shipping smh. Why not max out the M7 Max with a screen protector. this should be default feature. smh.
@@J3DTech according the the questions part of the M7 Max page on the anycubic website the first question is does it come with a preinstalled screen protector and the answer was no you need to buy it separate. but I did just chat with anycubic and the person asured me it did come preinstalled just didn't come with an extra So I guess ill know for sure when it get here. lolbut thank you for the quick reply
@@xephorce I am actually is the one that asking the screen protector question on the FAQ section LOL. I received my printer and noticed a layer with air bubbles on the LED screen, leading me to believe it might be a pre-applied protector. Can you notice any air bubble on the surface of the LCD layer? If so, It likely is a screen protector, since LED shall not have air bubble. And the sell from Anycubic does not know what they are talking about.
@@DontLookLikeAFool i only ordered mine yesterday so I don't know what it will have. i am glad to hear from ya. I will be updating this string of post once I find out for sure. so excited. cant wait to print tanks and other Warhammer 40k stuff. some amazing titan proxies out there that I've been collecting for years. So how happy have you been with it so far? any major or minor issues besides those air bubble you mentioned? I also heard that anycubic might be looking into a screen upgrade in the future but only time will tell.
I'm a little disappointed with this printer. I have the M3 Max and because of the screen there would be no large need for me to upgrade. It looks a lot nicer then the M3 max but there's no draw to upgrade dispite conviences that people may not even use. With uniformation luanching their GK3 Ultra they have shown you can get a large format printer with modern pixel sizes.
This is not a company to rely on according to my experience their products are very low quality their support non-existent and they do not accept returns
@@ViewerV-bb5df I've seen this type of behavior from all three, but I will say that Anycubic in the past has been quite bad with their support. I worked quite a bit with them on improving this Over the last 2 years and I think they have made really massive improvements on this topic. My hope is that they can continue to provide good support and support their printers for a long time. But I do think they learned their lesson on the M3 Premium with how badly that hurt their image.
Kinda regret this purchase now, they withheld the vat always on during print beta software / update for contented creators since it launched and still not here 👎
@@AntJ91 Yes there will be an update soon to how you can interact with the heater. I would be testing it now but instead I'm working on this GK3U stuff...
The unfortunate aspect of this machine is that the resolution and build size is identical to the M3 Max. It's the same machine with vat heater and wifi.
@@ajc4477 And A massively better lighting engine. This is a bigger deal than I think people understand. A force sensor for Dynamic settings An upgraded motherboard that's way better at processing the data for more stability and higher quality AA. Upgraded UI and better integration into the app. All that said. I am pushing Anycubic as hard as I can to release an upgraded LCD as an optional upgrade and or checkout option.
The Revo has the 14k LCD but yeah.. if this printer was a 30um LCD it would be the better option. The Revo is better for minis when you really need that detail. But outside of that I am enjoying this one.
I am going to buy a MSLA Printer now or soon and wanting the best price for performance ratio and is it seeming like this is the one to get currently. LIke do you say like this better than the saturn 4 ultra . And obv getting this now at the current presale price. But my goal is to use it within 1 year of getting it also. NO joke, i deal with many hobbies engine toys and extreme lazyness on free time ( half joking) . Thx. and blessings.
actually wtf why is this only a 7k printer. Or are larger printers generally lower k resolution. Perhaps ill wait a year for logics to improve in overall quality of this type of printer. Should easily of been a 12k resolution in 2024.
@@mattg2596 Thank you! I also just added a coupon code on the video description that'll save you even a little bit more money if paired with the link. I do have to honestly say this is one of my more favorite printers that I've used over the last year. Before this, my next favorite printer I've ever used is the M3 premium that you can't buy anymore sadly.
@@mattg2596 Higher resolution screens exist but I would say you're right. Big printers generally do have a significantly lower. Um size. Cuz remember we don't care about the resolution. We only care about the size of the pixel and of course this one is 46um or 0.046mm square. I would say you are also correct in saying that a 46um LCD in this day does seem a bit strange. But this was an intentional choice to keep the cost down. This printer right now goes for closer to $700 and if you can pair that to the gk3 that's going for almost double that price and the only significant difference between the two is the LCD you start to see it might be for slightly different audience. As in, if you're going to print a mini you want to paint, this might not be the best printer. However, for the price point you can buy something like a Mono 4 Ultra with a crazy low 17um for $259. Now for cheaper than a gk3 you have a really big printer for printing big models or terrain and probably the highest quality printer on the market right now to print your minis. But again, if your goal is to print lots and lots of minis and that's it, you might want to go for the gk3.
@@J3DTech Thx for response, just bought the mono 4 ultra and wash n cure max and 5kg of texture resin hd gray and used your coupon code which saved 30$ thank you indeed.
Hej. Thank you for the video. It is a nice looking 3D printer with good new features. During watching this short intro i got "Photon M3 Max feelings" because it has nearly the same specs with 298x164x300mm maximum printing size. In the M7 Max video the screen resolution has a typo - it is not just 4680x3600 (th-cam.com/video/NRmI5YkknwI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=l2ZZI_4LHcRkAOz0&t=255 ) . The M7 Max will assumly have 6480x3600. And again - it is like the older M3 Max ;) I am wondering about the claims Anycubic has made about the printing speed of the new M7 Max - they advertise "blazing speed" of 31mm per hour on their info page = for me this is extremely slow... I will wait for more reviews and do not pre-order the M7 Max. And maybe the M3 max will get extremly cheaper so i can buy that one ;)
Ah crap, cant fix that now.. Howerver, the only thing that matters is the 46um pixle size. The resolution means nothing as it has to be measured against the LCD size. As for the 31mm per hour, this type of marketing means nothing. They are using 0.1mm layerhieght and a speed resin to even get this. In the end limit of speed is the resin not the printer. And it's ALWAYS as a cost in quality. If you're pushing this printer at it's max speed of 10mm/s up and down with 0s light off delay at 0.1mm layer height using a speed resin and ACF film... you will in no way get 46um quality on XY. This has nothign to do with the printer it's just physics. You need to aks yourself, do you want a fast print or a quality print? To give you an idea, to get the results where this 46um got pretty close to a 19um printer once 16XAA was enabled. I was printing at less then 1mm/s at 0.03mm layer height. This is going to take over 30x as long as this advertised speed. But this is what it takes to really get the best quality out of your printer. If I replace the ACF with nFEP I will get even better results. Something I did want to do with this review but ran out of time. I think the biggest upgrade between this printer and the M3 is the vastly upgraded lighinting engine, the best I EVER tested. As well as force sensor to to add in the intelligent release and light off delay functions.
I made a mistake the LCD is 6,480 x 3,600 hower it is still 46um x 46um.
I'm new to printing and wonder if that dragon would've printed as good in one piece rather than separately and would it have fit?
@CrainialCommando You really don't want to print complex parts in a single go as you don't have a good way to place the supports.
Things being cut up is not always to make them fit but more about how to orientate them.
@@J3DTech También separas las piezas para poder procesar con mas calidad y poder pintar mas fácil. Por cierto excelente video, me gusto mucho, muy detallado.
También me gustaría saber las diferencias reales de comprar la M3 Max o M7 Max.
@@jumagomos Thank you, the main differences are: The build quality is better, the lighting engine is way better, the Force sensor, and the new firmware to take advantage of the Force sensor.
@@J3DTech thank very much
I learn much more off of you than any of the more animated reviewers, I switched to lychee+ because of your series of videos and I’m very happy with it I will probably buy this rig now. thanks again..
Perfect review Derek, thanks a lot!
My M7 Pro also had a not so flat buildplate. I mailed Anycubic with my findings, they sent me a new buildplate for free. That one was also not so flat. So I sanded the first buildplate on a very flat natural stone surface. It works like a charm now. I also use your builtplate leveling design piece. I really love it.
I had the same issue but luckily my replacement was very good.
Crazy that this is still an issue which was present all the way back with their Photon Mono X which came out in 2020 I believe. Goes to show Anycubic just doesn't care and which is why I avoid their products.
The 😊
Great presentation of an interesting printer! I know it might be overdone, but is there a chance of you making a video of recommended printers for different sizes? It's hard to trust most YTers out there, but your videos are always so detailed and well done without any hype or bs.
Thank you! Yes I do plan to do more printes in this same format. This one took the longest as I had to develop some of the ways I want to test it. I do hope to only get better as I go on.
I have more work to do on The Revo, M7-Pro and S4U. These printers are interesting and have caused A LOT of issues and even delay getting updates from the manufacturer.
I'll also be doing the GK2 and GK3.
As far as Very small printers I do plan on doing the Mars 5 Ultra and the 8ks. Maybe the Anycubic Mono 4 Ultra.
We will see, I'm still doing 1 video a week on the Lychee Slicer youtube as well so I need to make sure I leave some time to keep living 🙃
@J3DTech Nice, i will be looking forward to those videos, even if they take a while!
OMG this review was so amazing.
@@knightning3521 Thank you!
Thanks so much for this review !
@@MayaTlab You're very welcome and thank you very much for taking the time to comment.
subbed for the scientific approach.
@@somhunt5446 thank you!
Incredible review and thanks for all your work. I own a M3 Max, but now I want a M7 max 😅
For that pre-order price i moght just add it beside the M3 Max 🤔😁
Good choice!
Absolutely stellar review. This is my 4th Anycubic printer, starting off with the Photon Ultra, moving to the M3 Max, then the M5S Pro, and received this on the pre-order list just a short time ago. And absolutely love it. To the point that my other printers (including the Photon Mighty 8K) are now just sitting while this workhorse takes over everything. And love the in-depth details you went into about the options and settings.
I also leveled this with the vat in place and it's made quite a difference in my success rates overall. I was getting some failures on the edges, which got me worried. However, I went ahead and re-leveled with the vat in place and it's been banging prints out left and right since.
I was wondering if you have taken "advantage" of the pre-drilled exhaust hole and paired it with something like the Mars Mate? I have a complete enclosure system in the garage - grow tent and ventilation - that the printers all sit in, but was actually wondering if the Mars Mate system with this printer helps at all.
Keep up the great work as always! I refer to a lot of my friends and family who are getting into this hobby to your reviews and advice on printing and they all appreciate the work you put into this.
@@psychoskin67 Thank you! My first printer was also an Anycubic the Mono x 6k a fantastic printer. I've never used the exhaust port but that's because my printers are in a well vented room.
This was an incredible review, I'm so sad that I'm im now just discovering your channel!
That heated vat is awesome and im pretty tempted to get this printer. I wish the pixel size was closer to 30micron though.
Im pretty certain the heated vat and the "smart" wait times are going to make me finally upgrade fromy Epax E10.
@@GrayGryphon I have an Epax10 8k this printer is much better. I've been trying to convince Anycubic to release an upgraded LCD. We will see. But with AA you can get it to do better then it data suggests.
I agree on the power level availability. I've needed to really hack my layer exposure and light off times with an engineering resin on my Mono X 6Ks printers. It would have been handy to be able to reduce the light intensity rather than stepping down the exposure time and increasing the light off delay. I still think that the M7 Pro is going to be my replacement for the 6Ks units next month since the 10.1" size provides what I need for both my engineering work and my minis and terrain.
Oh, and Fresnel is pronounced "fren-ell". Nit-picky, I know, but ...
@@RocktCityTim Yes my EPAX has a pot screw and I use this to calibrate the printer to the way I like it to print.
That way I could keep the same resin profile over multiple printers and they all run at 30 um at 1.8 seconds and it makes life a little easier.
I didn't really address this but if you can tell in the video I kind of cut out where I talk about the middle resins. I felt the session was just too long in fact through the editing process, I assume 50% of the video is cut because it just felt like it was less about the printer itself and more about relevant information. Data applies to the printer but more about 3D printing.
Great in-depth review. Many thanks 🌟
@@errolfrancis4708 Thank you!
Great scientific approach and attention to detail, subscribed
Thank you! I plan to do even more in the future!
that's a really nice printer, I wish the pixel size was around 30 microns because I print 30 micron layers and the idea of cube voxels makes me happy, but the quality still seems to be great despite 46 microns
I'll keep the M7 Max in mind if my Saturn 3 dies, I like the lack of auto-leveling and the built-in hanger
Yeah it's the one drawback but it is why it's under $900. I do wonder if they will ever sell an LCD upgrade.
One thing to point out which I have NEVER seen mentioned.
If you are printing something big and heavy do not turn off the power or the plate may drop down with the weight and damage your print bit more important that big $$ screen.
Sometimes if it is late I put a ruler or something to jam the plate and close it up till morn.
Jealous they did not send me one. I have had good success with some of their printers and this looks good.
I did have issues but there support was great.
@@irishlightandmagic I've not seen where goes down when you drop the power I'll look into that.
And as I stayed in my video, this wasn't sent to me to do a review one. They didn't ask me to do a review or anything. In fact they didn't even tell me they were sending it.
It was just out of blue one day they're like. Oh yeah, we need you to look at it from a technical perspective before it goes live to find any bugs and give advice.
But I saw it as a good opportunity to showcase a printer that I thought was really really well built and I was very happy with.
Hahah! Yes. Not sure about this one, but my M3 Max has done this to me. Freaked me out the first time!
If they release M7 Max with higher resolution or if they provide a screen upgrade kit so I can get 25-30um details im gone buy it asap. I already have the M7 Pro but I would love to make larger functional prints so I can actually get prints with good layer adhesion in all directions and that look like injection molding parts and not continue to use my Creality K1 Max ( I don't mind if put more work to get better quality parts that fit exactly and can actually print intricate models with no problem). I don't want to buy GK3 Ultra cause it's way to expensive and also it doesn't have intelligent release which is a really nice feature if you want to get fast, dimensional acurate and insanelly detailed print parts (abs-like and though new generation resins are a lot more accesible this days and am not willing to buy very expensive fdm printer filaments which will never result in a print with great level of detail).
If you wipe down the lid with a dryer sheet, it will discharge the static and eliminate the resin issue.
@@gtrmotorc7 I have that a test and I even got the anti static sheets and it did not work.
I've even had it jump over to a printer next to it.
Great review! Thanks for sharing
@@tonithaye251 Thank you!
Im definitly buying one, my M3 Max is amazing but it´s very slow.
I will still use my M3 but the M7 will definitly be my main printer!
Great review btw!
Thank you!
wanted to do the same but actually the resolution of our m3 max is higher... wtf man
@@softwareboy isn´t it the same?
I believe it says both are 46 microns with a 7K screen.
I watched your video and decided to upgrade to the M7 MAX from the Mono X!
I have a quick question: Does the M7 MAX come with a pre-installed screen protector (Not the proactive film during unboxing) ? I received my printer today and noticed a layer with air bubbles on the LED screen, leading me to believe it might be a pre-applied protector.
@@DontLookLikeAFool It is supposed to yes. It's not quite as large as the LCD. But it does cover the visible light area.
Really wish there were more reviews for the regular M7, I change resins alot so having a pump and pump based heater like on the M7 Pro is literally a waste of money for me. 👍
@@kettusnuhveli I also change resins a lot. You can buy the M7 vat and use it on the Pro
@J3DTech Good to know! I think I will go with the regular M7 as that way I will get the vat I want while having to pay less. Only other difference between that and the pro seems to only be a bit weaker light source.
Any update on the manual Z-offset for these machines as I also find it quite useful?
@kettusnuhveli Not yet but I'll keep asking.
Great channel/videos...Have you used Formlabs resins with other printers? Specifically, their clear flexible resins? Thanks
I have not used their clear or flexibil. I need to find a good project to print their clear resin.
Wait, whats that orange thing youre using to scrub the resin and syringe it back? That seems genius and such hassle free than what ive been doing.
Yep, but I also use it to squegee the FEP before every print to make sure there are no hard bits and that the resin is mixed well for the next go.
Look into dental barrier film. It’s similar to the windows film you using but comes in rolls with a adhesive backing.
That would be GREAT for the LCD. Right now I cut a square out of the larger roll to clean off the LCD before I put the VAT back on. This smaller roll would make this SUPER easy!
@@J3DTech Use lots of soapy water. Google how to apply window tint.
I didn't know your channel, but I already subscribed! Great analysis! Congratulations! One question: where can I get the leveler you used?! I have an Elegoo and I've been struggling to level it.
@@carlosrodrigues3390 Thank you!
I have all my stuff on my Cults account and the link is in the video description.
Everything is free I'll never charge for anything.
Well, it seems to be an interesting machine but the 46um is what worries me a bit, especially when the GK Three Ultra exists (same size but somewhere around 24um if my memory serves me well). Yes, the GK3 Ultra is also much more expensive but as someone who is about to start up his 3D design/printing studio I am in the "twilight zone" and can't decide which printer to go for (for both large prints and minis).... But the M7 Max does look promising!
I have a GK3 ordered... I'll get it sometime... When I do I'll do a short with a AB comparison.
From what you've seen so far with the M7 max, would you suggest it for professional use (print medium to large prints - some of which have fine detail) or should I pick another printer?
@@evanskan6326 What are you printing?
For dental, engineering I think its perfect!
For minis, I would go for a smaller printer with a higher XY UM.
@@J3DTech After some research I think I will go with the M7 Max (fingers crossed they will also release a LCD upgrade at some point). I will print mostly large scale statues and terrain. Even the miniatures I saw online (printed on the M7 Max) weren't bad at all. I will test it myself and if the mini quality isn't what I am looking for, I think I will also buy the Mono 4 Ultra.
@evanskan6326 they're actually pretty good. I've printed more stuff on it and I'm impressed with the quality
I love that the print will stop going to the top but i think it could be done better like elegoo did.
On my M7 (non pro or max) If i try to go up 50mm but its only 49mm to the top, it will give the error and not move instead of just going 49 and stopping. I would rather it be like my Saturn 4 Ultra, In the same scenario, it will just go up 49mm and stop.
I hate getting 49mm away, then having to switch to 10mm, go up 4 times, then go to 1mm and going up 9mm to get all the way to the top.
@@TylerTroglen What did Elegoo do? My Saturn 4 Ultra and Mars 5 Ultra will both crash at the top. Unless they updated it since last I checked.
But on the Max if I keep pressing up on 50mm it will give me an alert exceeded upper limit. It will then go to the very top but not crash.
I did not show this in the review I should have kept that bit.
@@J3DTech It must have been updated in firmware ( I've only had mine for 1.5 months)
You can use 50mm even if you are 1-49.99mm away, it just goes whatever amount, beeps and stops on mine at the top.
My M7 on the other hand will just stay 49mm away while giving the error if the amount entered is too far. I was confused on the M7 and thought to myself, Why wouldn't they let it go all the way to the top at first before i figured out i had to change down to 10mm and 1mm increments to get all the way to the top.
@TylerTroglen I just tested it on my M7 Max and it went all the way up to the top just by smashing the 50 mm up button.
@@J3DTech th-cam.com/users/shortsTJ0vapSvmgg?si=WVFFF33XaLrQhUV5 this is the behavior of the regular M7
@TylerTroglen Ah I don't have the M7 to test on. But yeah looks like it needs the M7 Max love.
wanted to get me the pro , it basically has all i need, BUT the vat form really bothered me, the 7m max solution is def better ! u think the m7pro is alot faster than the m7 max?
Speed = the resin and the quality you want. Not much the printer at all. But overall you don't need to lift as high on a smaller printer so they can be a bit faster.
Thanks for your reviews. For dental work, Do you think M7 max is better than M3 max?
Yes, in every way
Does the off compensation work the other way as well? As in if it doesn't feel pressure from viscous resin will it shorten the light off delay? I currently have mine set to 7 seconds delay in the slicer but just checked my print and only seems to be doing a delay of a second
Very interested to see the light uniformity comparisons! One Question: The Saturn 3 Ultra looked so bad in comparison to the others - more than 40% variability! but your review of the Saturn 3 U was very positive. Does that mean the light uniformity comparison graph is not as big a deal as it looked?
@@n0f8r Both are true.
1. I did not have this data at the time and I still think that the S3U is the best Saturn on the market and a good step in the correct direction. Sadly the S4 went Auto leveling.
2. It depends on what you're printing and your resin.
If you don't care about really high accurate parts and you're not using really highly accurate resin, you might not be able to tell the difference.
Or if you're doing engineering parts or high accuracy? Resins, those differences in the LCD can be the difference between successive and failure or out of spec and inspect.
@@J3DTech thanks! my Saturn 2 stepper failed, and wondering if it's worth repairing or should just upgrade to S3U - I also don't like the auto-leveling build plate of the S4U. S3U Ball screw instead of lead screw, and 4-point level platform seemed nice - but that light uniformity really concerns me.
I'd love to see a video specifically on Light Uniformity comparing more printers and going into a bit more detail on how bad the problems with poor uniformity can get!
@@n0f8r That's my plan in the future but it's a very hard thing to get objective data on.
I'll need to develop a methodology and then apply it to all the printers in a way that's visual yet easy and quick to understand.
If your ok with a smaller printer look at the new Anycubic M4 Ultra
@@J3DTech actually Jan Mrázek did a fantastic blog post (Dec '22) on the topic, and built an impressive open source custom machine with software that plots a heat map of the whole print surface, but he's only got 2 resin printers I think. It would be amazing if someone built his machine and applied it to a whole bunch of printers.
@n0f8r I'll check it out. I'm really looking for some cool stuff like this to add to my reviews.
I just bought this printer and was wondering, do you have the setting you use for this printer? thank you
That's what I want people having alot of failures :(
Thank you for the review. I currently use an EPAX e10 8k and thinking about adding a second printer. This one looks great but I don't need the build volume. I hate to ask but what would you recommend after this on that does not have self leveling, like you I am not o fan of self leveling. Thank you for all your effort giving to the community.
@@fs360llc9 If your looking for another in the 10" size I would recommend the Phrozen Mega 8k or wait a bit longer for the the next generation of Uniformation
@J3DTech just got the M7 Max, and noticed the resin heater is only for pre-heating, which is not very useful for me because my printing room is often below 10C in Winter. Posted about it on Reddit and Facebook and got several replies to the effect that the power supply is not big enough to run the heater and the printer at the same, but also one reply from someone saying they spoke to you - and that you said you had a beta firmware version that heated throughout the print - is that true?
@@n0f8r Yes there will be a update soon that will allow the heater to stay on during the print.
@@J3DTech awesome! thanks 👍
Could you please share your settings? My printer is arriving soon I just want to know what burn in layers, transition layers and lift height you use.
If you look at the description I have a link to my guide, in that you will find how I 3D print, calibrate, level, EVERYTHING you will ever need.
would you recommend this for 1/4 figures? I have now the Apex X1 but I'm not sure how long it will last. This M7 is nice but seems it lacks detail. Maybe the GK 3 ultra is a better option or maybe going down to something like the new Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra 16k or Nova3d 16k. What do you think?
@@OctavioAlonsoHernández I can't currently recommend the GK3U at this time. It's having major issues.
The 16k LCD is not what you want either. It adds 0 details as the resin can't even do much better then 8k. But the file sizes and slicing time on 16 are insane! Not to mention the motherboard can't always process the data during the print and you get some major issues.
Honestly If you want a good printer avoid the following.
16K LCD on any screen smaller than 13".
Auto leveling
A built in heater with no ability to control the temps.
This rules out almost everything on the market ATM. Strange times we live in ..
the original photons had a lid at the front that lifted up.
@@TKs3DPrints Ah yeah the OG, it was a little different but yep did lift up.
Can you show your settings people having alot of failures 😢
@@christianortiz3738 I have a video going over settings on the lychee slicer TH-cam. Go check that out.
As for leveling this printer I'm going to make a dedicated video and release it to help users with this or other larger printers.
@J3DTech thank you will check it out
Hi.
Did you try to measure flatness of the build plate while it is heated?. On some machines not printers if you measure some surfaces they are bowed but when they are in working/designed temperature the surface will be more or less flat.
When can we expect the printer to be shipped? Still 2024?
I'm not 100% sure but I expect yes
Great review, what AA mode for Lychee would your settings be, I don't remember seeing those options.
@@packe93 I have this information in my guide under the AA Section. You will find my guide in the description. It has everything about resin 3d printing.
Oh man((( It's dissopoinment of the day! It's looks very cool but why 46um??? I expected 24um like at M7 pro(((
@@n6e6k6o I had to do something to keep it under that $1,000 price point.
It does make me wonder if they Will release an upgraded LCD at anytime in the future
The Apex Maker X1 has a UV matrix 2 to 2.5 X more powerful than anything else on the market today,. It can also almost re-slice a file on the go if you wanted to say change the layers height from 50um to 100um!!
Its normal exposure time for resins like elegoo abs or anycubic abs is 1.1s and for fast resin it 0.5..
The Apex uses TSP film aka HDF and I've had no problems with stretching and have actually lowered the lifting height from 6mm down to 5mm..
It also has a build plate bigger than this and bigger than the Mega 8k it has made my M3 MAX, Mega 8k, Mega 8k V2, and Jupiter all obsolete like we hardly bother with them anymore!!
They are not losing money the Apex Maker wipes the floor with this and it's only £1650 and £350 of that is going to be shipping.. It's only Phrozen that charges you £3500 for a printer no better than anyone else, I still can't believe how crap the Mega 8k is and the V2 what a joke...
Does UVTolls work with this printer, say per-layer settings or adding black bottom layers to compensate for the lack of z-offset setting?
@@dariorseventyeight They are looking into it.
It it depends on what you're trying to do with UV tools.
Anycubic printers don't allow you to set different wait time per layer.
At least not at this time. Maybe in the future?
@@J3DTech I need to print directly on the build plate. Besides the initial blank layers for the Z off-set, I need to set custom waiting times before cure for some layers (not just the bottom ones) with high surface to let the resin stop moving. With high viscosity resin and such a large build plate, I see this being a potential issue.
Hey great review! Quick question when will the anycubic photon m7 max come to lychee slicer. Mine is arriving in a couple days.
@@coleschaben It's all ready there. Just make sure you DL the newest version from the Lychee slicer website.
@ thank you!
Elegoo bottles for the pumps. I use them for my my pro.
Good to know, thank you!
Derek,
Can you confirm if there is no way to manually adjust the Z-height of the home position on the M7 Max? There’s a "Move to Home" button and a button for leveling, but there doesn’t seem to be an option to set the "home" position after manually adjusting it. On your level calibration prints, I’m getting consistent results, but the "1mm groove" appears slightly thicker, and I’d like to adjust the home position. I see no way to do this and was hoping you could confirm.
Thanks!
@@jsgcustom2138 Right now there is no way to set the Z offset.
It's still something I'm trying to get Anycubic to add in.
How much over are you? Being a little over or under is just fine.
@@J3DTech On average, I’m getting about 1.2mm on the four corners. There is a slight bow in the build plate, creating a larger gap in the center. At this point, I haven’t been able to get a successful print of the “boxes of calibration” in the center with a burn-in layer exposure time of 35 seconds. The first layer of the boxes never sticks to the plate. I’d like to lower the build plate by 0.2 to 0.4mm to see if I can get it to stick in the center. This is such an important feature, and I can’t believe new printers don’t come with it from the beginning. I could try increasing the burn-in layer exposure time, but I think that’s the wrong “solution” to the problem. Thanks for confirming that the manual Z-offset is not present on this machine currently.
@jsgcustom2138 1.2 is ok but beyond that you're getting dangerous.
You can try leveling it again that may pull you closer to the LCD on the print.
@@J3DTech Yes, that was going to be my plan. I'll push a little harder when leveling and try to narrow the gap a little. I may clean the resin out of the vat prior to leveling and see what that does. Thanks again for confirming no way to set the Z offset. I wanted to make sure I wasn't looking past it.
great review
@@LuisG-SC Thank you!
LYCHEE BRO! great review
Thank you!
Any suggestions for bottom exposure time? I've always been time you didn't want to go over 30-35 seconds because it's bad for the screen but I'm having trouble getting stuff to stick to plate
@@JrodsRabbitry How long you have to expose the bottom layers has to do with your layer thickness, resin, temps and the UV power of the the UV array in your printer.
Setting a very long "wait before print" time will also allow you to lower the bottom UV exposure time. But often this requires the use of UV tools.
In the end do what works for you.
@J3DTech ok thank you. In your experience is it bad if I take it over 40 seconds?
@JrodsRabbitry What resin, printer and layer height?
@J3DTech sunlu abs like, m7 max, 0.05
@@JrodsRabbitry 40s seems a tiny bit high but not horrible. How much light off dealy are you using? The M7Max is using 6s on the bottom and I'm working with them in a firmware update to force 10s. This SHOULD help you reducie this number.
Can you let Anycubic know the heater for the m7 pro is not dynamic it preheats only but will not maintain temp during a print id imagine it’s the same with the max as well as the standard 7 we need dynamic active heat during a print 🥶🥶🥶🥶
When I pulled the data from the heater I saw that it was keeping the temps consistante over the entire print. There is always a spike for the burn in, then a small drop of where the heater isnt running then it will stabilize for the rest of the print.
I'll need to run some tests on the M7Pro to confirm as well, but in my Z tower prints, there is no evidence of a temp drop over the print on the M7Pro. The Z calibraion print should measure thicker at the bottom then the top if there was a temp drop over the print.
That said, sounds like I've got more testing and work to add to my board. 😆
I loved your review! thank you. How would you compare it to the M7 Pro? I bought the M7 Pro but still haven't taken it out of the box yet. I heard issues with the splattering of the resin when the build plate lifts and I'm concerned about that. Also, concerned about the cleaning of the Vat. I was planning on selling it to get the Information GK2... but seeing this unit has he on a halt. Can you please address my concerns etc? Thank you. ... looking forward to your next video!
I have the M7 Pro and it is a good printer. I've never experienced any splashing so I'm not entirely sure where that's coming from. It could be people using their printer way too fast?
The max has speed limits built into the first 50 layers. That should prevent that.
Overall, I would say this is one of the better built printers that I've I've handled since the M3 premium, which still to this day is my favorite printer that is a medium sized. This of course is a large size printer so it's a slightly different category.
I think the biggest selling point of this printer is going to be its build quality, its size and it's price.
There are printers that are the size that have a higher resolution LCD but either their build quality isn't quite as good or their price is significantly higher.
So it really depends on what you're looking for on which ones right for you.
@J3DTech How would you rate the M7 pro? Is the resin vat hard to clean? I'm really wanting a printer that is turnkey and easy to clean and has a heater as I've in Canada. I just to know if there is a better option before I unbox the m7 pro that I have. Thank you again.
Also, is there a way to slow the rising build plate so it doesn't hit the top and splatter. I've read articles where that has happened. I see in you m7 max review that that can be adjusted in the phone app.
@jameskelleher467 Now process to slow it down. But you can select if you want it to go up after the print is finished or not.
I've asked for a hanger button to be added on the print finished screen. This way there would be no real need for this.
@jameskelleher467 I found it a bit difficult to clean. But you only need to clean it if you change your resin to something quite different.
You can also use the M7 VAT on the MB Pro.
I just watch the intro to the new GK3 and GK3 Pro.
I thought this was going to be a no-brainer, but after seeing this review, I am no further a head in my search for my first resin printer. I was about to go with the GKTwo but wanted to wait to see this review.
I'm not really wanting a large printer. I'm fine with a medium printer. But I do like the heater in the M7 Max but not the screen. (I dont like the M7 Pro, so that one is out) The regular M7 with the plug in heater could do, but I like the flip lid like the GKTwo and M7 Max..Aaarrrgghh.
Can you or anyone help me with the best option I should be looking at? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
@@jameskelleher467 First look at the cost of these printers and see what's within the budget. Then from there think why do you want a big printer and then find out which one fits you? And that should answer your question in the end. They're all great printers.
@J3DTech thank you getting back to me so quickly. All costs aside. Which one would you prefer? On paper there is a large gap between the m7 and the max but in reality is there a big difference?
@jameskelleher467 I would say it really depends on what you're going to print.
Are you trying to make toys or do you want to make art?
If you're making toys, the M7 Max is the perfect printer. If you're trying to make art, you might want to wait for something like the GK3 Pro.
@J3DTech I plan to make superhero/marvel figures etc as well as scanning people and printing busts from waist upwards.
@@jameskelleher467 The M7 Max will let you print bigger and with AA voles will be bailey noticable on something like a nose or the top of the head.
GK3 Ultra is 2x the cost and you will have a smaller volex in the same places. Harder to see but still there.
G3Pro or M7 will be very similar but smaller and cheaper.
All great options
hi, do you know what size the ACF Film is? it doesnt seem to be listed on the website and the chatbot has no idea either and i cant seem to find a clear answer on google about it. its just showing the smaller M7 Pro models
It's the same as the M3 Max. I buy my nFEP in a big roll that I cut to shape. This makes it cheaper and a 1 size fits all option. I have links in my guide for the toll I use. The stuff I get is 300mmw by 1000mm long. This will fit most any printer.
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802836288548.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.44861d2ag2UnKb&algo_pvid=5fb7ee15-3ead-408f-9830-1836938e82b3&algo_exp_id=5fb7ee15-3ead-408f-9830-1836938e82b3-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2132.88%2126.96%21%21%2132.88%21%21%402101f49c17022329270716598ea569%2112000028640173249%21sea%21US%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=XzPbGV5uTqoc
How do you get the heater to stay on, or does it just pre heat,
@@markmcguire6984 Yours will preheat only, this is something I learned just the other day that I'm running a beta Firmware that's not quite ready for full release. This was an accident on Anycubics part 😂 but soon there will be a release for everyone to run the heater during the print. They need to make sure it won't affect the UV power.
@J3DTech I was thinking that, as I watched the temperature drop as I was running the test print, I'll wait for the firmware update before I run a full print so, thanks for the fast reply
@J3DTech any idea when they'll update so it stays on ? Also when will they add to chitubox basic ?
@markmcguire6984 Not sure but I use Lychee Slicer and it's available there on the free Version.
Hi there,
Amazing video-super professional! I’m just getting started with creating TH-cam videos, and I’d love to use your calibration test file in a review article and an accompanying TH-cam video. Would that be okay with you? Of course, I’ll be sure to credit your channel in my content.
Best regards,
Manuel
Thank you and yes, have at it! Everything I do is there to be used at no cost.
@@J3DTech Great, perfect, thank you!
I already have the Elegoo Jupiter original.... and im surprised that this is the same in micron height? 3 years later? still about 0.48um.... I was hoping this would hit in the 0.38um range so it would be a day 1 purchase for sure
Anycubic tropiezan mucho con la misma piedra, Anycubic debería crear un departamento de calidad que se comunique con los usuarios y así aprender de sus errores.
great video. Can you tell me whether M3 MAX VATs fit to the M7 Max? it seems to be pretty similar but can you tell me what is the spacing between mounting holes?
@@pawetrznadel7770 Thank you!
Oh good question it might but the heater might be an issue. Let me find out and get back to you.
hey J3d, With my Uniformation gktwo meeting its end today, vat stuck to plate and kept lifting until the legs snaped, resin getting everywhere including electronics. I'm in the market for new printers. I'm looking for something similar or smaller than the GKtwo and want it to be as hands off experience as it could be. With my research being mostly 1 year old now, and so many printers releasing this month:
heygears, m7max, mono 4, mono 4 ultra, mars 5 ultra, saturn 3/4 ultra etc .
What do you recommend .
Im in the south, hence temp control is not a requirement.
Note I used to normally use Tough + abs like v2 from anycubic. But have moved to Waterwashable + from sunlu, but might go to Water washable ABS from ancubic soon ( also used INlan, but i bought all the stuck in my local microcenter)
@@KevinHernandez-e5u What are you printing? That's the biggest thing.
The printer can only work as well as the resin and the water washable resin is terrible in my opinion. It is much more brittle warps a lot more on the shelf and if you didn't know this, it is just or even sometimes more toxic than the other resins. If your reason for using that is simply because it's hard for you to obtain the chemicals required for cleaning other resins that make sense but for any other reason I could not ever recommend using it.
As for the printer, I would stay away from The Saturn IV or the Mars 5. This is because they come with the new auto leveling systems that has no auto leveling in it and no ability for you to manually level the build plate. This makes these printers unbelievably unreliable with no viable workaround.
If you're looking for a solid printer that will just work that is smaller than your current one, I would really look at the mini 8ks or the Mono 4 Ultra .
If you're okay with keeping with about the same size, I would look at the M7, not the m7 Pro but the normal M7.
The Revo is also a good printer but kind of expensive but it is built very very solid.
@@J3DTech currently printing mostly Dnd figurines and War hammer proxies..
It's good you mention this as on the saturn as it was my current #1 runner up (saturn 4 ultra) as it went on sale today ($399) prior to this i was looking at the mono 4 ultra ( 259) , i see ne M5s pro is also on sale ( 299.99) and the m7 max is about to be released .
They hey gears went out of the intro price, and now is out of budget
@KevinHernandez-e5u The ones I mentioned should work great for you on those types of prints. You're going to love the quality of what you get off of it and working with them is going to be a lot easier than some of these other ones.
Especially if you've already been 3D printing for a while, you understand how to do it. I think the Saturn IV ultra's main selling point is that a lot of the settings have been removed so it's easier for new users.
And I think that it would be a very good printer had they simply Left out all that auto leveling stuff that ended up making it a very frustrating. Very expensive printer to run due to the massive amount of wasted resin you get from trying to print using it out of level build plate.
@@J3DTechJ3D, on the Saturn 4 Ultra leveling issue (also should apply to the Mars 5 Ultra with similar build plate), I thought I saw a TH-camr (can’t remember who, maybe Ross/Fauxhammer?) show that the build plate can be manually adjusted (ie. leveled). Of the 8 screws on top of the build plate, the four inner screws can be adjusted for leveling the build plate. The suggested action is to, like usual for 4-point leveling, place a piece of paper on screen (screen is in the default flat position), lower the build plate until it just touches the paper, pull on each corner of the paper, feeling for even resistance on the paper. If not even resistance on one or more corners, then adjust the related top-inner screw until you have even tension when pulling the paper at the four corners of the build plate. Once set, it’s recommended to mark each of the four screws’ position with a sharpie and use some Loctite to hold these four screws in position. I’d be interested to know your thoughts on the above manual leveling for these two Elegoo Ultra printers.
@dovmerrill804 So these screws are not designed to be loose. A TH-camr discovered if you do the springs may have a little less tension and give you a more even spread.
However the screws can move during the print because they are no longer tight using LockTight can help however this doesn't fix the issue.
The issue is that the springs will still. Well spring back into position as soon as the pressure is released. And the pressure must be released to allow for the resin to fill the gap.
The Mars 5 Ultra does have the same issue but it's not as bad because the smaller size.
Does it have this vat tank tilting mechanism some printers have these days?
@@ROBOROBOROBOROBO Nope and I'm happy for that. The tilting mechanism gives you faster prints but at a cost. Accuracy and a higher failure rate. And some strange things.
The Saturn 4U and Mars 5u is good for some things but very bad at others.
@ thank you for your detailed answer
Hi there! You have some great videos! I have a question which you or someone who reads this perhaps could shed some light on. I'm strugglin to decide for the M7 regular or S4U as my new printer. The only thing holding me back from the S4U is that i can't find any intell on weither the 'auto level' system could result in less dimensional accuracy. Even when not printing directly on the buildplate. As in; if supports aren't accurate, would that also effect the accuracy of the model that's supported? If anyone could share some insights on that would be really great!
@@AG-x4r So the Auto leveling isn't real or any of them. I avoid printers that have Auto leveling.
The M7 is the more accurate printer.
@@J3DTech yeah i didn't explain it well, i meant the S4U springloaded build plate to be precise, which you can't officially level if needed. So since i'll mostly print functional parts that plate system was a concern. The M7 looks like a great printer with great sensing features, and, a build-plate which one can level :)
Thanks for your response! Very much appreciated. If you have any Anycubic affiliatelinks i'll be happy to use it
@AG-x4r You explained well and ai understand. I would really recommend the M7 or M7 Max for what you're doing.
@J3DTech, This or the revo ?
@@AntJ91 They are not really in the same class. It really depends on what you're wanting to print.
Hmm. Just now tried the same test moving the plate all the way to the top, and it did NOT stop and give me a notification. It kept grinding like the old days. Doesn't make sense. Latest firmware updated today.
@@galaxy5iveArmory had it been sent to home first?
@J3DTech Ahhh touché! No it had not. Thanks!
What is TMSC here, other than a Taiwanese chip maker? 😅
Two Stage Motion Control
Read about it here
docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit?tab=t.0#bookmark=kix.lwi0v9cdziw9
Hello, the product has just arrived and I tested it with excitement but I couldn't print it. I saw some pieces falling off and some pieces sticking but the majority fell off the tray. Can you help if you have any information on why this might be happening?
@@sedefoz3673 That sounds like maybe it was damaged in shipping? Have you reached out to their support?
@ I don't think so, the box was quite intact and undamaged. I keep getting test prints, but it presses on the back but not on the front and I can't understand why.
@@J3DTech I use standard anycubic resin, is there a setting you can recommend for test printing
@@sedefoz3673 Oh sorry you mean the print. I thought you were saying the printer had pieces falling off of it.
Yes, I can offer assistance. But TH-cam chat is not the place for this.
The best place would be to reach out to me on Discord
@J3DTech Discord is unfortunately not available in my country at the moment, if you have a telegram we can contact you there.
Could you lap the build plate to flatten it out? How deep are the etching marks?
@@Trident_Media7104 It absolutely will help. They are not they deep and starting with a higher grit and a plate of glass or granite will get it down pretty fast.
But this is the one Area I would like Anycubic to look into on their line. I don't see why it is an issue in the first place.
@@J3DTech Thanks for the fast reply, the girlfriend and I want a large 3d resin printer as the FDM isn't cutting it for D&D terrain and minis anymore.
We were debating to pre-order this. I think if we could lap the build plate that would be good, but for the price i'd rather it came with a perfectly level bed 🤦♂
@Trident_Media7104 I think it's kind of luck of the draw. I have one build plate for my M7 Pro that's flat and another that's not.
It's not the worst thing to fix and if you use a MAG plate then it doesn't matter either.
I would love to give every printer a shining review and not have any butts but every single printer has a butt.
This one I think has two. One of them is by design. That's the lower um LCD. The other one is the build plate. Outside of that I would say it's damn near a perfect printer.
I have the photon mono x 6k and I'm thinking this is going to be my upgrade
@@Auchaser643 It's a very good call, I have 15 different resin printers now and this is in my top.
the Curvy non planar. Center of the Plate (13.20) will only affect the First Layers? thanks
Correct it's going to affect the raft. The printer will reach a level print at about 1mm.
Did you have any compression issues al la S4U?
I do, there is a video there a story there I have been trying to find out how to tell for 3 months. It's why my Revo Part 2 review is taking soooo long.
@@J3DTech Do you recommend replacing the ACF to nFEP?
@brucebarton2888 I do. I'm not a fan of ACF.
I'm quite new here and I want to ask just out of curiosity: at 6:14 POIWER is a typo or some kind of a meme at your channel?
Just a typo and that just means I need to punish my editor and that's me so...
Asking around trying to get an answer before I pull the trigger on something this expensive. Does the heater maintain the temp throughout the build? The store page says the heater stops when the build begins, so implies pre-heat only. Is this correct?
@@briankito1655 It keep it going in the review I did 3 print where I pulled the temps and I provided the graphs.
Without the heater.
With the heater
And with the heater and a larger print that generated a lot of heat.
@@J3DTech Thanks for the reply. That's what I thought from this excellent review, but the store page seems to contradict it so thought I'd ask. Thanks again!
I've heard rumors that Anycubic might have a higher-resolution screen for this in a year or 2. what have you heard related to this?
@@xephorce I've been pushing them on this topic since over 3 months now. It's all I can say is that I know that they're looking into it but I haven't heard anything official
@@J3DTech that just backs up what I heard. so that gives me hope they are. its really going to come down to how much support they get from us on this printer. its got to sale well enough to justify R&D on there side. I just really hope this gets longer support then the M3 version of this one did. Fingers crossed this does the amazing things I want and need it for.
I told a few people I was think about getting this monster and one of them is already asking for things to be printed he alone might end up covering the cost of this printer for me lol. he is wanting a few 7-inch dark souls figures printed and the helmit of Sauron. So I'm feeling good about my purchase. lets just hope its as good once I get my hands on it.
@@xephorce That's the way to do it. Make your printer buy itself!
I don't understand why they would release this printer with such a low resolution. There is so little competition in large-scale printers that there is nothing to choose practically at the moment. If they released a better high-resolution screen, they could get a nice piece of market.
@@88RunnerBlade I do agree, but they really wanted to keep the price lower. A 14K LCD adds a very high cost.
That said I've asked them many times to offer an upgraded version.
3:41 "I don't want my printer to become ugly because of spills, so i'll make it ugly with tape and protective film" there is logic behind it, but it's still funny
@@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov 🤣
Yeah see but the spills never come off and remain sticky. This stuff I can remove if I want to take a picture and the printer is always in peak operating business.
@@J3DTech my S4U lid is already as dirty as hell while i didn't spill anything on it, and yeah it feels like that resin dissolves acrylic and eats it's way inside because it is possible to scrape majority of it off, but droplets are still there, i guess only sanding and clear coating will fix that
@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov Yep, it's crazy how it just bonds to it. It doesn't have to be cured. The second it touches it. It's chemically now part of the cover. Forever...
same screen, lost the ball screw. its a pretty disappointing release
@@mysteriousfox88 There are quite a few upgrades in the lighting engine and firmware.
I wanted to go deeper into the type of railway used but I'm finding it hard to gets details so I could give a more objective validation. So I ended up cutting that part.
I'm working on gathering more information and educating myself in these topics so I can inform the buyer in the quality of the z-screw as being a ball screw isn't always better if it's a lower quality.
As far as the LCD I agree as 12k or 14k would have been better at this size and I think the only thing holding this printer back from being absolutely amazing.
But they are looking into it.
I’m is micrometer
I just bought this monster and only after the fact have I realized that it donest have a screen protector. the specs say it has a "Protection film Replaceable anti-scratch film." I guess my brain took that to mean screen protector. so now I'm gonna have to order a thing of screen protectors for $22 plus shipping smh. Why not max out the M7 Max with a screen protector. this should be default feature. smh.
@@xephorce Are you sure it's supposed to
@@J3DTech according the the questions part of the M7 Max page on the anycubic website the first question is does it come with a preinstalled screen protector and the answer was no you need to buy it separate. but I did just chat with anycubic and the person asured me it did come preinstalled just didn't come with an extra
So I guess ill know for sure when it get here. lolbut thank you for the quick reply
@@xephorce I am actually is the one that asking the screen protector question on the FAQ section LOL.
I received my printer and noticed a layer with air bubbles on the LED screen, leading me to believe it might be a pre-applied protector. Can you notice any air bubble on the surface of the LCD layer? If so, It likely is a screen protector, since LED shall not have air bubble. And the sell from Anycubic does not know what they are talking about.
@@DontLookLikeAFool i only ordered mine yesterday so I don't know what it will have. i am glad to hear from ya. I will be updating this string of post once I find out for sure. so excited. cant wait to print tanks and other Warhammer 40k stuff. some amazing titan proxies out there that I've been collecting for years.
So how happy have you been with it so far? any major or minor issues besides those air bubble you mentioned? I also heard that anycubic might be looking into a screen upgrade in the future but only time will tell.
its amazing how anycubic still manages to install these cheap a** stepper drivers that produce this loud sound.
I'm a little disappointed with this printer. I have the M3 Max and because of the screen there would be no large need for me to upgrade. It looks a lot nicer then the M3 max but there's no draw to upgrade dispite conviences that people may not even use. With uniformation luanching their GK3 Ultra they have shown you can get a large format printer with modern pixel sizes.
This is not a company to rely on according to my experience their products are very low quality their support non-existent and they do not accept returns
@@ViewerV-bb5df I've seen this type of behavior from all three, but I will say that Anycubic in the past has been quite bad with their support.
I worked quite a bit with them on improving this Over the last 2 years and I think they have made really massive improvements on this topic. My hope is that they can continue to provide good support and support their printers for a long time.
But I do think they learned their lesson on the M3 Premium with how badly that hurt their image.
im using chitubox , but they do not have M7 Max machine. What slicer do you use
@@Peppercat1824 Lychee Slicer and right now it's 25% off the Plus version
Kinda regret this purchase now, they withheld the vat always on during print beta software / update for contented creators since it launched and still not here 👎
@@AntJ91 You mean the vat heater?
@@J3DTech yes, I've heard a few people have access to it and its coming within a few weeks, but to hold it off as a selling point is not okay imo
@@AntJ91 Yes there will be an update soon to how you can interact with the heater. I would be testing it now but instead I'm working on this GK3U stuff...
An adapter? someone will 3d print one
This seems designed for print farms.
@@tristanc2271 There is a non zero chance this printer is a result of when I was at Anycubic HQ with Titanforge last year 🤔😉
The unfortunate aspect of this machine is that the resolution and build size is identical to the M3 Max. It's the same machine with vat heater and wifi.
@@ajc4477 And
A massively better lighting engine. This is a bigger deal than I think people understand.
A force sensor for Dynamic settings
An upgraded motherboard that's way better at processing the data for more stability and higher quality AA.
Upgraded UI and better integration into the app.
All that said. I am pushing Anycubic as hard as I can to release an upgraded LCD as an optional upgrade and or checkout option.
the resolution is much higher on the m3 max....
@@softwareboy The M3 Max is 6,480 x 3,600 pixels I made a mistake in the video, the M7 Max is the same at 6,480 x 3,600
7K nada en comparación a la Uniformation GK3 Ultra, 16 K mismo tamaño.
I have a Gk3 on the way, I will do it side by side. However the GK3 is also close to 50% more the price for a different target audience.
@@J3DTech si es cierto, el precio cambia, pero veo pocos avances con respecto a la M3 max, eso si el precio esta bien.
Damn kinda regret that i went for the revo now
The Revo has the 14k LCD but yeah.. if this printer was a 30um LCD it would be the better option.
The Revo is better for minis when you really need that detail. But outside of that I am enjoying this one.
I am going to buy a MSLA Printer now or soon and wanting the best price for performance ratio and is it seeming like this is the one to get currently. LIke do you say like this better than the saturn 4 ultra . And obv getting this now at the current presale price. But my goal is to use it within 1 year of getting it also. NO joke, i deal with many hobbies engine toys and extreme lazyness on free time ( half joking) . Thx. and blessings.
actually wtf why is this only a 7k printer. Or are larger printers generally lower k resolution. Perhaps ill wait a year for logics to improve in overall quality of this type of printer. Should easily of been a 12k resolution in 2024.
@@mattg2596 Thank you! I also just added a coupon code on the video description that'll save you even a little bit more money if paired with the link.
I do have to honestly say this is one of my more favorite printers that I've used over the last year.
Before this, my next favorite printer I've ever used is the M3 premium that you can't buy anymore sadly.
@@mattg2596 Higher resolution screens exist but I would say you're right. Big printers generally do have a significantly lower. Um size.
Cuz remember we don't care about the resolution. We only care about the size of the pixel and of course this one is 46um or 0.046mm square.
I would say you are also correct in saying that a 46um LCD in this day does seem a bit strange.
But this was an intentional choice to keep the cost down. This printer right now goes for closer to $700 and if you can pair that to the gk3 that's going for almost double that price and the only significant difference between the two is the LCD you start to see it might be for slightly different audience.
As in, if you're going to print a mini you want to paint, this might not be the best printer. However, for the price point you can buy something like a Mono 4 Ultra with a crazy low 17um for $259. Now for cheaper than a gk3 you have a really big printer for printing big models or terrain and probably the highest quality printer on the market right now to print your minis.
But again, if your goal is to print lots and lots of minis and that's it, you might want to go for the gk3.
@@J3DTech Thx for response, just bought the mono 4 ultra and wash n cure max and 5kg of texture resin hd gray and used your coupon code which saved 30$ thank you indeed.
@@mattg2596 A great printer! Make sure to read my resin guide as well (Comments). 3 years of testing and education in that one doc.
Hej. Thank you for the video. It is a nice looking 3D printer with good new features.
During watching this short intro i got "Photon M3 Max feelings" because it has nearly the same specs with 298x164x300mm maximum printing size.
In the M7 Max video the screen resolution has a typo - it is not just 4680x3600 (th-cam.com/video/NRmI5YkknwI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=l2ZZI_4LHcRkAOz0&t=255 ) .
The M7 Max will assumly have 6480x3600. And again - it is like the older M3 Max ;)
I am wondering about the claims Anycubic has made about the printing speed of the new M7 Max - they advertise "blazing speed" of 31mm per hour on their info page = for me this is extremely slow...
I will wait for more reviews and do not pre-order the M7 Max.
And maybe the M3 max will get extremly cheaper so i can buy that one ;)
Ah crap, cant fix that now..
Howerver, the only thing that matters is the 46um pixle size.
The resolution means nothing as it has to be measured against the LCD size.
As for the 31mm per hour, this type of marketing means nothing. They are using 0.1mm layerhieght and a speed resin to even get this.
In the end limit of speed is the resin not the printer. And it's ALWAYS as a cost in quality.
If you're pushing this printer at it's max speed of 10mm/s up and down with 0s light off delay at 0.1mm layer height using a speed resin and ACF film... you will in no way get 46um quality on XY. This has nothign to do with the printer it's just physics.
You need to aks yourself, do you want a fast print or a quality print?
To give you an idea, to get the results where this 46um got pretty close to a 19um printer once 16XAA was enabled. I was printing at less then 1mm/s at 0.03mm layer height. This is going to take over 30x as long as this advertised speed.
But this is what it takes to really get the best quality out of your printer.
If I replace the ACF with nFEP I will get even better results. Something I did want to do with this review but ran out of time.
I think the biggest upgrade between this printer and the M3 is the vastly upgraded lighinting engine, the best I EVER tested. As well as force sensor to to add in the intelligent release and light off delay functions.